I am about to use the leadmine kit after I bought it a few years ago maybe 5 lol and found your vid to recall the steps - thx Instructions says to put a 3rd member gasket in too that changes the centerline ever soo slightly. Well done.
glad i could help. if i recall, i opted not to because im not using a gasket. i find that they tend to leak, so i use a gasket maker from peramtex called "the right stuff". works great and squishes down to face so there was no need to account for any change. i also use this for my china wall on the intake manifold.
What's critical about the angle on the axle ends' about 7 minutes into the video, is that when you bolt on your brake caliper, you want the bleed port to be in a position to bleed the brake proper. You want the bleed port at the top.
I didn’t have a stiff spot on mine like you apparently have on the passenger side. In the video after you finished welding the bearing end housing you could see it had a stiff spot. Probably should of cut it back off and tried again on that side. Drives side turned smoothly, both sides should turn smoothly without any hard spots!
Not being a critic just want to make anyone doing it themselves that I bought a S10 with a ford 9” that someone else built and it had a stiff spot and even though I ran it for a couple years like that it wasn’t where it was a problem that was a issue until I put a new motor with 850 horsepower in it to show its true problem . Couldn’t get it to track straight with the front tires off the ground. It made it pull to the drives side regardless of what we tried to do. Finally someone mentioned the end caps being ever so slightly off and sure enough. Corrected that and truck drove straight from than on.
@@jeffjoedicke5862 no i appreciate the comment and i already know i put too much heat in them and they warped a bit even with the tacks.. comments like yours that address issues and explain things are pefectly fine.. the ones that are just, "messed it up" and leave it at that are a waste of time. funny enough, it's the driver side that has a leak though and not the passenger.. i'll be fixing that eventually. not sure if its the weld job or a bad seal on the prebuilt axles. but it'll be addressed after the motor swap because i have to drop the drivetrain for the new T56 magnum. thanks for watching and commenting.
possibly, but not sure if it throws it off enough. i did purchase a "reusable" gasket and it is a little thicker to try next time i pull it. not sure what the compressed thickness is, but i could see it possibly causing issues.. but if you think about it, a factory rear that isn't cut could use paper, sealant, or this reusable gasket and there's no specification not to use one or the other method. a lot of shops will only apply sealant there instead of using a gasket.. me included from now on after the paper gasket had leaks. then it would be face material to face material with the sealant filling any voids.
Question, for example if I cut 7 8nches out of one side, and say 3.5 inches out if the other side. Couldn't you have your axles cut and resplined accordingly.
you'd probably pay a machine shop more to cut and respline vs just ordering new axles.. or order ones like i got where they're splined a ways down and cut to length. but also, I'm assuming its a rear out of something else and you're cutting it different lengths like that to make the diff in line with the factory drive shaft angle??
What if? To find the reweld angle square the empty housing face to your welding table top, place a flange hole size drill in the top 2 holes and use your angle finder across the drill shanks. Use this reading to clock the flanges again for welding.
@@callofgeorge Put two drill bits in holes so you have a flat then put angle gauge on top of drill bits, that's what he said and how I do it, we make it same angle as top of housing or like you said 90 to face which is a better area to measure. It does only matter for brakes but if its way off could be an issue.
@@frankclarkjr6369 ya, the brackets welded nicely.. tubes, not so much.. attempted walking the cup for the first time since it was a wide butt weld.. didn't go as planned lol.
@@callofgeorge never any sarcasm from me, I know all about didn't go as planed goes. Nice work, fro a fellow craftsman. Enjoy your work and I really appreciate you chatting back to me that's a good deal
great video man im putting the same ends on my 8.8
thanks for watching. glad ya liked it.
Type o negative I love that song
I am about to use the leadmine kit after I bought it a few years ago maybe 5 lol and found your vid to recall the steps - thx Instructions says to put a 3rd member gasket in too that changes the centerline ever soo slightly. Well done.
glad i could help. if i recall, i opted not to because im not using a gasket. i find that they tend to leak, so i use a gasket maker from peramtex called "the right stuff". works great and squishes down to face so there was no need to account for any change. i also use this for my china wall on the intake manifold.
What's critical about the angle on the axle ends' about 7 minutes into the video, is that when you bolt on your brake caliper, you want the bleed port to be in a position to bleed the brake proper. You want the bleed port at the top.
yup. you're 100% correct. probably fine if it's off a few degrees as the axle pinion angle may vary sometimes as well.
Cut groove on rotor is limit mark . you can resurface when brake need replacing .
I didn’t have a stiff spot on mine like you apparently have on the passenger side. In the video after you finished welding the bearing end housing you could see it had a stiff spot. Probably should of cut it back off and tried again on that side. Drives side turned smoothly, both sides should turn smoothly without any hard spots!
Not being a critic just want to make anyone doing it themselves that I bought a S10 with a ford 9” that someone else built and it had a stiff spot and even though I ran it for a couple years like that it wasn’t where it was a problem that was a issue until I put a new motor with 850 horsepower in it to show its true problem . Couldn’t get it to track straight with the front tires off the ground. It made it pull to the drives side regardless of what we tried to do. Finally someone mentioned the end caps being ever so slightly off and sure enough. Corrected that and truck drove straight from than on.
@@jeffjoedicke5862 no i appreciate the comment and i already know i put too much heat in them and they warped a bit even with the tacks.. comments like yours that address issues and explain things are pefectly fine.. the ones that are just, "messed it up" and leave it at that are a waste of time. funny enough, it's the driver side that has a leak though and not the passenger.. i'll be fixing that eventually. not sure if its the weld job or a bad seal on the prebuilt axles. but it'll be addressed after the motor swap because i have to drop the drivetrain for the new T56 magnum. thanks for watching and commenting.
You should point out, the gasket for the third member to the housing, needs be in place also. Some are paper thin, others are not.
possibly, but not sure if it throws it off enough. i did purchase a "reusable" gasket and it is a little thicker to try next time i pull it. not sure what the compressed thickness is, but i could see it possibly causing issues.. but if you think about it, a factory rear that isn't cut could use paper, sealant, or this reusable gasket and there's no specification not to use one or the other method. a lot of shops will only apply sealant there instead of using a gasket.. me included from now on after the paper gasket had leaks. then it would be face material to face material with the sealant filling any voids.
@@callofgeorge It does matter.
I was wondering if you adjusted your tube lengths for the 11/16 pinion offset on a 9" ?
i shortened each side equally to keep offset correct.
Question, for example if I cut 7 8nches out of one side, and say 3.5 inches out if the other side. Couldn't you have your axles cut and resplined accordingly.
you'd probably pay a machine shop more to cut and respline vs just ordering new axles.. or order ones like i got where they're splined a ways down and cut to length. but also, I'm assuming its a rear out of something else and you're cutting it different lengths like that to make the diff in line with the factory drive shaft angle??
@@callofgeorge that is correct. Ford 9 inch out of 68 f100. Going under a ford ranger. Thanks for the feedback.
What if? To find the reweld angle square the empty housing face to your welding table top, place a flange hole size drill in the top 2 holes and use your angle finder across the drill shanks. Use this reading to clock the flanges again for welding.
not sure if I followed all that, but I think I got it close enough..
@@callofgeorge Put two drill bits in holes so you have a flat then put angle gauge on top of drill bits, that's what he said and how I do it, we make it same angle as top of housing or like you said 90 to face which is a better area to measure. It does only matter for brakes but if its way off could be an issue.
Nice !
Way to go and thanks for the detailed explanation. So how much did you narrow the rear on each side and what size tires are you going with?
rear end is 55" flange to flange.. wasn't stock rear, so i couldn't tell you how much over stock.
235/40ZR-18 Front
275/35ZR-18 Rear
Nice dimes
dunno if i'd call them dimes unless that's sarcasm. some were decent.. others were... well, not so great.. but thanks :P
@@callofgeorge I saw the welds first on the brackets I posted before welding the tubes
@@frankclarkjr6369 ya, the brackets welded nicely.. tubes, not so much.. attempted walking the cup for the first time since it was a wide butt weld.. didn't go as planned lol.
@@callofgeorge never any sarcasm from me, I know all about didn't go as planed goes. Nice work, fro a fellow craftsman. Enjoy your work and I really appreciate you chatting back to me that's a good deal
@@frankclarkjr6369 well thanks. much appreciated. any time.