If you have cracks you need to get glue into, try using your shopvac to suck it through. I found that trick a few years ago and it has really saved me.
Good video. Aren't you getting a lot of overspray using that airless sprayer ( even though your using a fine finish tip) in your garage? I know you don't have alot of things in there ( I wish mine was that clean. Lol.)..but still you have cabinets etc..thanks !
airless sprayer "tip" (advice) ... I use automotive antifreeze as a "pump protector" , been doing it for years and years , works great (for my water based paint sprayers , I use seperate sprayers for oil and water) .... Anyway , antifreeze works very well and is a lot cheaper than all the "specialty products they sell in paint stores" .... I use antifreeze full strength , but since there is usually water left in the machine it ends up around a 50/50 blend ..... My airlesses have never had a pump issue and I have always used antifreeze as a pump protector
Just be careful with anti-freeze around pets. Cats and dogs find it tasty but it’s extremely toxic for them. It gives them terminal kidney failure even after just a small amount. That said, I don’t know if the pump armour is any safer… will have to do some research!
Thank you for the kind words. I’m clearly no video production expert but I enjoy putting these together. I grew up doing DIY projects with my dad and I wanted to pass along a bit of what he taught me. It’s my hope that these videos help people get the courage up to try and tackle some things on their own.
@@buildwithbc No mask? is it safe to paint without one, or was it just for video purposes and demonstration. Also you never put hose in the tin and went to the waste bucket? good paint going to waste. Somewhat like the diesel engine when it's primed the fuel line goes back to the tank to prevent air, so similar in design these airless sprayers, to maintain high pressure the paint is returned to the tin.
Thanks for sharing your experience, I’ve been watching a lot of paint sprayer videos, and there’s thing called a Airless Hose whip, it provides more flexible I think there only $20-30. Solid attention to detail. Thank you again.
Hey thanks for the video. I am in between buying a pneumatic air compressor with the gravity feed air gun HVLP Air sprayer OR the one you use the Graco X5. The tip you used for the Graco does that size come with the Graco sprayer or do you have to buy it separately and what size was it again? I am trying to get the smoothest finish I can get on my kitchen cabinets.
Yes, all the same steps! The primer is key, I would test the adhesion of the primer to the laminate in a hidden spot before tackling the whole project.
Good paint for cabinets Dunn Edwards or aristoshield or vista paint polytec urethane.. oh vista paint carefree or emerald....primer for Benjamin Moore universal primer for Kelly Moore...
Professional painter here ...... Bang on Bama! Lay down the edges then top coat over the overspray on the face of the panel, especially with Emerald Urethane it will flatten out real nice! Great video. Love how you are just trying things and improving. Thats how it is. Its all about screwing things up and then learning from your mistakes.
Both sprayer do the same job. You can use either one. I use the X5 when I spray more than a couple quarts of paint that’s all. It was just for ease. If I had to have just one or the other I would go with the X5 for everything.
@@buildwithbc Holy cow, I could tell you’re responsive from other comments but I didn’t think you’d reply in 5 minutes. Thanks so much, your content is really helping answer my questions and narrow down the options!
@@buildwithbc From my experience, the spray from the X5 is MUCH more consistent than the smaller gun. Ironically I have the X5 as well, but my smaller gun is the 360 VSP, perhaps that's the difference. My VSP pulses a lot, kind of sneezes paint on the surface at a rapid rapid rate. I believe your cordless sprayer has more tip options than the VSP also, so that probably improves the performance. Great video! Thank you!
@@RB-hj7qc my wife and I were on the phone with a friend of ours and our friend asked when are “they” finishing up the work on a project in our house. I said there is no they, “I am They!” A couple days later I received that shirt in the mail from our friend. That shirt is for all of us who do everything themselves!
Hey! Thanks for posting this great video series. Question: Do you spray the doors in your house in place or do you take them off and move them to a workspace? Also, do you use that sprayer to spray out rooms in your house with the furniture in place? Thanks!
I always take the doors off when I spray and for a couple reasons. 1, the paint is less likely to run if I overapply and the doors are lying flat. 2, you would see some insane lines on your cabinet boxes from where the doors cover. 3, masking off hinges would be no fun for me. I do spray walls with this sprayer, but I roll them right after I spray. I basically use the sprayer to apply the paint and the roller to even it all out. I do leave my furniture in place but it would be a good idea to throw a drop cloth over them just to be safe. You never know what could happen.
@@buildwithbc I used to paint show cars with an gravity-fed HVLP gun hooked up to an air compressor. Super easy to mix the paint, fill the cup and start spraying. The catalyzed paint had a short pot life, but there was always very little waste and the guns were easy to clean. Just toss the disposable mixing cups and strainers and you're good to go. Then I decided to use my aging spraying skills on my kitchen cabinets and realized most of these 1-part can paints are too thick to run through my traditional (but amazing) Sharpe Platinum HVLP gun and many of the dedicated cabinet paints can't be thinned enough. Unfortunately, I can't find any larger tips for my gun so I ended up buying the Graco X5 airless.... WHAT A NIGHTMARE compared to traditional compressed HVLP. The setup, priming, cleanup, buckets, garden hoses, and waste of paint is literally INSANE. You can't even reach the bottom of the can or air starts getting sucked in. So when I heard you airless to pre-coat your walls before rolling (presumably to save time) I was very surprised. By the time you setup and cleanup the airless sprayer, I'd be finished with the entire room using my paint roller. Last weekend I nearly lost my marbles after I bought the X5, and mind you, I spent years refinishing show cars and absolutely loved it. I don't know how anyone puts up with this setup/priming/cleanup/hoses and buckets (which also have to be cleaned) and the open cans that can easily be tipped... Traditional HVLP is 100 times better in my experience. You just need to get the right paint (ideally catalyzed) so you can wait minutes instead of 4 to 18 hours between coats and 2 to 4 weeks for it to fully harden like many modern latexes, urethanes, and alkyd's. I don't think I'm the only one. I've heard of cabinet pros going to traditional HVLP and 2K paints to save drying and recoat time. Now I have to sell this $350 Graco X5 because it's been used and I can't return it. I think it's great if you're painting a house or a fence, but for fine detailed stuff like cabinets.... Hard lesson learned.
You should have put your other hose back in the paint bucket while spraying or else you'll be putting all of the extra paint into your waste bucket instead of back into the paint bucket.
@@martin1b Yes Bill, once primed you would recycle the paint back to the tin, otherwise your wasting paint that has only been through the pipes and pump. This is a pressurised system and it's come from the tin into the pump and been sent to the gun and the remainder, which is still good paint, is returned to the tin, a bit like overflow. It's not waste paint. I prefer to think of it like a pressurised system on a diesel car, the unspent fuel is returned to the tank and this is the same principle, the unspent paint (unused by the gun) is returned to the tank (the tin in this instance). Hope that helps! Just remember prime the gun as directed and once you have put the small pipe with the return and clip it to the fill pipe (which has the filter at the bottom) - so your returning paint to the pot and not the waste bucket. That's merely for initial priming and cleaning.
I have good luck using thin CA glue and using insulin syringes to get it into small splits. Give it a good coat inside and out then hit with the activator to harden.
Great video very helpful! How long did you let paint dry before second coat? Also how did you handle back and fronts? Did you paint backs/let dry, flip paint front/ let dry then back and then front again for second coat? Thanks!
I let the primer and paint both dry about 4 hours between coats. I always paint the back of the doors first, then flip them over. I don’t usually paint the back of the doors with 2 coats unless I’m painting over oak. Oak is so open grained that it always takes two coats front and back. The front always gets at least two coats and you are good to go.
@@buildwithbc Awesome job! I’m getting ready to spray tomorrow same setup. Do you recommend backs first, dry 4 hrs then flip and do fronts? I bought those plastic triangles to set doors on, do you think the paint may peel off the backs as I’m spraying the fronts? What did you place your door on to spray fronts? I like the laying flat idea. Thank you
Hi. I want to repaint my cabinet. Do you have to sand the old paint down to bare wood?. Does that Graco sprayer give smooth paint surface like factory quality? People tell me kitchen cabinet sells the house so get the pros to paint cabinet. Please advise. Thanks
I do not sand the cabinets down to raw wood. I lightly sand them down with 220 grit sand paper if the wood shows heavy wear. Next, I wash them down with warm soapy water and remove anything stuck to the surface. Then I use Sherwin Williams Extreme Bond primer that I spray on with a 212 fine finish tip through my Graco paint sprayer. I then sand the primer with 220 or 320 grit sand paper. Next, I fill in or caulk any gaps. Last step I paint the doors and cabinets with Sherwin Williams Emerald trim enamel with my a Graco sprayer with a 208 fine finish tip. It gives me an amazingly smooth finish. You can also use an HVLP sprayer if you want. I use both sprayers and get very similar results. You’ll need to dilute your paints to match the needle in your HVLP sprayer if you go that route. Good luck on your project!
Thank you for the video, excellent! Just a thought, at the 3:38 point of the video, there is a split in one of the stiles and yes, glue will be needed but there is one additional step that you can take that will help out greatly, you have to be careful when you do this but if you are careful, you will be able to do this and it will strengthen your door. Predrill (CAREFULLY!!!) from the side of the stile, barely into the rail end of the door, once you drill, using a trim head, 2-1/2 inch trim screw, drive the screw into the stile, about a 1/8" to 3/16" deep, of course, you would have already glued and clamp it down, afterwards, Bondo the screw hole on the stile, sand and wala.
Now I want to paint my cabinets!! Would you write a list of exactly everything that’s needed in order to paint them white, including what color/type of paints you used? I was going to take a professional and pay $3G to get my cabinets white and sleek but I got inspired to do this myself. Do you remove the shelves from inside and paint them separately?
I’ve had a few requests for something similar to this. What if I shoot a quick video running through the whole process and keep it short? Would that be better?
@@buildwithbc that would be awesome!! Thank you! We’re moving in a week and I would love to re do my cabinets on my own. I would love a video/list of all products/links to items that are needed to get this project done.
What size of spray tip are you using with the Graco x5 for the cabinets? I just got a Graco sprayer but feel like the tip is a little too wide? Do I need to get a smaller one for spraying cabinets?
I would go with a wider fan than the 211 for entry doors. That only gives you a 4” wide fan. I spray my doors with a 312 FF tip if I’m applying SW Emerald Urethane enamel.
on the video you use the cordless and the tip is 212 and with x5 you use the 211, if you use on the same cabinet, does it come out the same? also which one you would recommend , cordless or x5 for kitchen cabines? and which tip should i use to get the result like glass?
Vinh, yes the result is the same for both. There’s nearly no difference between those two tips. You’ll get the best results by spending your time prepping after you prime. Take some 320 grit sand paper and meticulously go over your doors after you prime. You can even do the same thing after your first coat of paint. Using the right paint will also help immensely.
Build With BC- Tips for DIY home projects ok ..thank you . I wanted to come out shine and smooth like factory little worry about that ...I am using emerald and bonding primer from SW. I will try with 320 . Thanks again . Have a great day !
Thanks for sharing this video! I'm planning to spray paint our kitchen cabinets. How do you clean up an oil-based primer, I've heard that oil based paint should be clean using mineral spirits. Do you have any tips?
The primer I use in my videos is water based. If you are using a different primer that is oil based, the can will tell you what to use for cleanup. It is typically mineral spirits or lacquer thinner.
Very much appreciate your video and tips, I have my oak cabinets doors off and decided on the Emerald but struggling with Extreme Bond primer like you used or Extreme Block also from SW. Have any experience with the extreme block? Seems lots of folks like that for oak. Again appreciate the video!
I use the handheld sprayer to spray doors when I have smaller jobs. In this video I used my X5 airless because I was spraying quite a few doors and didn’t want to have to refill the paint canister multiple times. Either method works, I use the same tip on both sprayers and they turn out great every time.
Those little bumps on the doors are to keep the doors from banging when they close. I call them sticky bumps. If you only have a couple that are not working well enough, you can hot glue a dab on the door and leave the door open until it is dry and not sticky to your touch.
Larry, great observation. There is little to no overspray when you use the Fine Finish tips from Graco. This is why I love using them. That said, I do have a small paint booth I use when I have a large number of doors to paint.
The results are the same as far as I can tell. The low pressure tips seem to perform the same on either sprayer. I’m not a professional painter so maybe a pro can chime in and share their knowledge.
I used both the Graco Magnum X5 as well as the Graco cordless Ultra in these videos. I wanted everyone to see how you can do the job with either or both sprayers.
@@buildwithbc often the hand helds need a little thinning because the pumps are not nearly the strength of a larger sprayer. That SW urethane flows through the pump of that magnum. You want to really step up the game ...... grab an Ultra Max 490. That will blow you away.
Yes, great input here. The Rac X guard that comes on the Graco ultra screws right onto the Graco Magnum sprayer. Thank you Brady for adding your knowledge to the group.
I am using a green spray tip (fine finish) so I can spray at a lower pressure. I had been using a FF 310 but I wanted a smaller spray path and a little less paint so I am now using a FF 208 tip. I have to dilute the Extreme Bond Primer down just a little because it’s really thick and doesn’t move well through that small of a tip. The Emerald paint however sprays perfectly through the FF 208 tip. Make sure you have a rac X guard base for your sprayer if you plan on using the green tips.
Tyler Davidson thanks Tyler I don't have an IG so I couldn't send you a picture but I'll try a smaller tip should I get it in fflp style? I kind of figured that in going to get some orange peel but my OCD is kicking in I guess. Also, do you recommend thinning the material?
Advance is great. Self-levels, cures hard and durable. BUT it takes 16 hours drying between coats. So you're basically looking at 4 days of spraying just for topcoating (unless you hang doors to spray) SW Emerald is 4 hr recoat time, levels better IMO, just as durable.
@@larrybrassard6914 it depends on the temperature and humidity. I live in Las Vegas where the humidity usually hovers around 7-10% so everything dries fast here. I usually wait 3-4 hours between coats on the cabinet boxes and I wait over night for doors and drawer fronts.
I used two different sprayers for this project. One was the Graco Ultra cordless sprayer and the other was the Graco Magnum X5. Both sprayers work in the same way and will yield the same results. I like to use the Magnum X5 when spraying more than a couple quarts of paint at one time.
Bert, great catch. The tip on the video is not a 211 tip. I had loaned out my handheld to a friend when I shot this part of the video and my other tips were in the bag with the sprayer. I used whatever I had at that time. I do t remember exactly what it was but it was way too wide.
I just love the endless comments on virtually every video upload on youtube from the "experts" on what you're doing wrong or should be doing instead. That's reason enough for me to never make a youtube video.
E E There are lots of “experts” out there ready to give their opinions for sure. Lucky for me I just do it for the love of remodeling. I have had several people send me pics of their cabinets that they did all on their own after watching my videos and they love the results. That’s all I need to keep making more. I have three more almost ready to go. I just need to finish editing them. All the best, BC
If you have cracks you need to get glue into, try using your shopvac to suck it through. I found that trick a few years ago and it has really saved me.
Yes, great tip! Thank you.
One word though man, respirator, do your lungs the favor
I've got the same Hp sprayer. It will use a qrt of paint to fill a hose.
Pretty close to a quart yes. This is where the GX19 would be a great option.
Good video. Aren't you getting a lot of overspray using that airless sprayer ( even though your using a fine finish tip) in your garage? I know you don't have alot of things in there ( I wish mine was that clean. Lol.)..but still you have cabinets etc..thanks !
Thank for th e tips. Great jobs
Great helpful video
Do you light sand before second coat of paint?
airless sprayer "tip" (advice) ... I use automotive antifreeze as a "pump protector" , been doing it for years and years , works great (for my water based paint sprayers , I use seperate sprayers for oil and water) .... Anyway , antifreeze works very well and is a lot cheaper than all the "specialty products they sell in paint stores" .... I use antifreeze full strength , but since there is usually water left in the machine it ends up around a 50/50 blend ..... My airlesses have never had a pump issue and I have always used antifreeze as a pump protector
Same
Good to know.
Just be careful with anti-freeze around pets. Cats and dogs find it tasty but it’s extremely toxic for them. It gives them terminal kidney failure even after just a small amount. That said, I don’t know if the pump armour is any safer… will have to do some research!
Diddo
For being a non professional painter, you did a good job. Like you said, being happy with your end results.
great video! Very easy to understand what your saying and you explain your procedure very well!
Thank you for the kind words. I’m clearly no video production expert but I enjoy putting these together. I grew up doing DIY projects with my dad and I wanted to pass along a bit of what he taught me. It’s my hope that these videos help people get the courage up to try and tackle some things on their own.
@@buildwithbc No mask? is it safe to paint without one, or was it just for video purposes and demonstration. Also you never put hose in the tin and went to the waste bucket? good paint going to waste. Somewhat like the diesel engine when it's primed the fuel line goes back to the tank to prevent air, so similar in design these airless sprayers, to maintain high pressure the paint is returned to the tin.
@@gazsto9510 Always wear a mask
Please use a dust mask when blowing everything off.
Thanks for sharing your experience, I’ve been watching a lot of paint sprayer videos, and there’s thing called a
Airless Hose whip, it provides more flexible I think there only $20-30. Solid attention to detail. Thank you again.
Great input! The whip is an amazing add on that gives you way more flexibility with the sprayer.
@@buildwithbc would you get the same finish/ results if you brush the primer on and then sand and final paint coat with your x5 sprayer?
Nice video. How did you paint your kitchen frame ? Did you use HVLP sprayer ?. Any suggestion ?
I used a Graco cordless ultra sprayer with a 210 fine finish tip on the face frames.
Thank you
4:05 you can suck the glue through the gap with a vacuum. Glue in on one side and vacuum on the other side.
Yes, great additional comment here. You can apply glue to the cracked area and suck it down through the crack with a vacuum.
If you have to glue up a split again, you ca use compressed air to force the glue deeper in.
Great video! Tackling my kitchen soon and just same as you a homeowner/hobbyist looking for tips and tricks! 🤙🤙🤙🤙
Awesome! Send me pics along to way! I’m on Instagram @buildwithBC
@@buildwithbc will do!
you can use an air gun to blow the glue further in the crack
Hey thanks for the video. I am in between buying a pneumatic air compressor with the gravity feed air gun HVLP Air sprayer OR the one you use the Graco X5. The tip you used for the Graco does that size come with the Graco sprayer or do you have to buy it separately and what size was it again? I am trying to get the smoothest finish I can get on my kitchen cabinets.
Unfortunately I had to buy the tips I used. I linked them in my most recent video on everything you need to pain your cabinets.
just get a hvlp sprayer i use a stage 3 turbine all the air you'll ever need get the remote cup pot as well you won't regret it. try a titan 95
Hello is that water base paint or solvent paint like poly or acrylic or etc thx
How long do you need to wait after spraying the primer before you can run the 220 grit sander over the primed cabinet?
Read the label
Awesome video! I just wanted to know if you'd follow all the steps the same if you were painting laminate cabinets (2008 builder grade stuff)? Thanks!
Wondering the same thing
Yes, all the same steps! The primer is key, I would test the adhesion of the primer to the laminate in a hidden spot before tackling the whole project.
Good paint for cabinets Dunn Edwards or aristoshield or vista paint polytec urethane.. oh vista paint carefree or emerald....primer for Benjamin Moore universal primer for Kelly Moore...
Have you used oil primer or oil paint with that machine?
You always can put your can inside a bigger bucket so don’t tip over
Always spray edges first but nice job 👌
Trish, that is great advice. It certainly gives better results when you do.
Professional painter here ...... Bang on Bama! Lay down the edges then top coat over the overspray on the face of the panel, especially with Emerald Urethane it will flatten out real nice! Great video. Love how you are just trying things and improving. Thats how it is. Its all about screwing things up and then learning from your mistakes.
Great video, extremely helpful, thanks! Why did you use the X5 for the paint coat instead of the cordless? Does it produce a better finish?
Both sprayer do the same job. You can use either one. I use the X5 when I spray more than a couple quarts of paint that’s all. It was just for ease. If I had to have just one or the other I would go with the X5 for everything.
@@buildwithbc Holy cow, I could tell you’re responsive from other comments but I didn’t think you’d reply in 5 minutes. Thanks so much, your content is really helping answer my questions and narrow down the options!
@@buildwithbc From my experience, the spray from the X5 is MUCH more consistent than the smaller gun. Ironically I have the X5 as well, but my smaller gun is the 360 VSP, perhaps that's the difference. My VSP pulses a lot, kind of sneezes paint on the surface at a rapid rapid rate. I believe your cordless sprayer has more tip options than the VSP also, so that probably improves the performance. Great video! Thank you!
I love that shirt! At work people always say "they said" I say "WHO IS THEY!" , like for real tell THEY to come here and say that to my face.
Glad you caught the meaning of the shirt!
I was trying to figure out what it meant.
@@RB-hj7qc my wife and I were on the phone with a friend of ours and our friend asked when are “they” finishing up the work on a project in our house. I said there is no they, “I am They!” A couple days later I received that shirt in the mail from our friend. That shirt is for all of us who do everything themselves!
@@buildwithbc Then I guess I need one too. :-)
@@RB-hj7qc go to Instagram send me a DM @buildwithBC with your name, address and shirt size and I’ll send you one!
Hey! Thanks for posting this great video series. Question: Do you spray the doors in your house in place or do you take them off and move them to a workspace? Also, do you use that sprayer to spray out rooms in your house with the furniture in place? Thanks!
I always take the doors off when I spray and for a couple reasons. 1, the paint is less likely to run if I overapply and the doors are lying flat. 2, you would see some insane lines on your cabinet boxes from where the doors cover. 3, masking off hinges would be no fun for me.
I do spray walls with this sprayer, but I roll them right after I spray. I basically use the sprayer to apply the paint and the roller to even it all out. I do leave my furniture in place but it would be a good idea to throw a drop cloth over them just to be safe. You never know what could happen.
@@buildwithbc I used to paint show cars with an gravity-fed HVLP gun hooked up to an air compressor. Super easy to mix the paint, fill the cup and start spraying. The catalyzed paint had a short pot life, but there was always very little waste and the guns were easy to clean. Just toss the disposable mixing cups and strainers and you're good to go. Then I decided to use my aging spraying skills on my kitchen cabinets and realized most of these 1-part can paints are too thick to run through my traditional (but amazing) Sharpe Platinum HVLP gun and many of the dedicated cabinet paints can't be thinned enough. Unfortunately, I can't find any larger tips for my gun so I ended up buying the Graco X5 airless.... WHAT A NIGHTMARE compared to traditional compressed HVLP. The setup, priming, cleanup, buckets, garden hoses, and waste of paint is literally INSANE. You can't even reach the bottom of the can or air starts getting sucked in. So when I heard you airless to pre-coat your walls before rolling (presumably to save time) I was very surprised. By the time you setup and cleanup the airless sprayer, I'd be finished with the entire room using my paint roller. Last weekend I nearly lost my marbles after I bought the X5, and mind you, I spent years refinishing show cars and absolutely loved it. I don't know how anyone puts up with this setup/priming/cleanup/hoses and buckets (which also have to be cleaned) and the open cans that can easily be tipped... Traditional HVLP is 100 times better in my experience. You just need to get the right paint (ideally catalyzed) so you can wait minutes instead of 4 to 18 hours between coats and 2 to 4 weeks for it to fully harden like many modern latexes, urethanes, and alkyd's. I don't think I'm the only one. I've heard of cabinet pros going to traditional HVLP and 2K paints to save drying and recoat time. Now I have to sell this $350 Graco X5 because it's been used and I can't return it. I think it's great if you're painting a house or a fence, but for fine detailed stuff like cabinets.... Hard lesson learned.
You should have put your other hose back in the paint bucket while spraying or else you'll be putting all of the extra paint into your waste bucket instead of back into the paint bucket.
That's the first thing I thought when watching this video, his paints going into the waste bucket and should be recycled back to the tin.
@@gazsto9510 So when using an airless, when painting, put both hoses in the tin?
@@martin1b Yes Bill, once primed you would recycle the paint back to the tin, otherwise your wasting paint that has only been through the pipes and pump. This is a pressurised system and it's come from the tin into the pump and been sent to the gun and the remainder, which is still good paint, is returned to the tin, a bit like overflow. It's not waste paint. I prefer to think of it like a pressurised system on a diesel car, the unspent fuel is returned to the tank and this is the same principle, the unspent paint (unused by the gun) is returned to the tank (the tin in this instance). Hope that helps! Just remember prime the gun as directed and once you have put the small pipe with the return and clip it to the fill pipe (which has the filter at the bottom) - so your returning paint to the pot and not the waste bucket. That's merely for initial priming and cleaning.
I have good luck using thin CA glue and using insulin syringes to get it into small splits. Give it a good coat inside and out then hit with the activator to harden.
Great tip! Thank you for the input, keep the great ideas coming!!
Great video very helpful! How long did you let paint dry before second coat? Also how did you handle back and fronts? Did you paint backs/let dry, flip paint front/ let dry then back and then front again for second coat? Thanks!
I let the primer and paint both dry about 4 hours between coats. I always paint the back of the doors first, then flip them over. I don’t usually paint the back of the doors with 2 coats unless I’m painting over oak. Oak is so open grained that it always takes two coats front and back. The front always gets at least two coats and you are good to go.
Did you have to sand in between coats of paint
@@priscillajanek4177 I sand after primer only. I do not sand between coats of the Emerald urethane.
@@buildwithbc Awesome job! I’m getting ready to spray tomorrow same setup. Do you recommend backs first, dry 4 hrs then flip and do fronts? I bought those plastic triangles to set doors on, do you think the paint may peel off the backs as I’m spraying the fronts? What did you place your door on to spray fronts? I like the laying flat idea. Thank you
This exactly how I did my cabinets
Awesome! How did everything turn out for you?
@@buildwithbc they turned out very nice. Look like new 👍🏼
Hi. I want to repaint my cabinet. Do you have to sand the old paint down to bare wood?. Does that Graco sprayer give smooth paint surface like factory quality? People tell me kitchen cabinet sells the house so get the pros to paint cabinet. Please advise. Thanks
I do not sand the cabinets down to raw wood. I lightly sand them down with 220 grit sand paper if the wood shows heavy wear. Next, I wash them down with warm soapy water and remove anything stuck to the surface. Then I use Sherwin Williams Extreme Bond primer that I spray on with a 212 fine finish tip through my Graco paint sprayer. I then sand the primer with 220 or 320 grit sand paper. Next, I fill in or caulk any gaps. Last step I paint the doors and cabinets with Sherwin Williams Emerald trim enamel with my a Graco sprayer with a 208 fine finish tip. It gives me an amazingly smooth finish. You can also use an HVLP sprayer if you want. I use both sprayers and get very similar results. You’ll need to dilute your paints to match the needle in your HVLP sprayer if you go that route. Good luck on your project!
Thank you for the video, excellent! Just a thought, at the 3:38 point of the video, there is a split in one of the stiles and yes, glue will be needed but there is one additional step that you can take that will help out greatly, you have to be careful when you do this but if you are careful, you will be able to do this and it will strengthen your door. Predrill (CAREFULLY!!!) from the side of the stile, barely into the rail end of the door, once you drill, using a trim head, 2-1/2 inch trim screw, drive the screw into the stile, about a 1/8" to 3/16" deep, of course, you would have already glued and clamp it down, afterwards, Bondo the screw hole on the stile, sand and wala.
That’s a great addition to the video. I appreciate the insight!
Wouldn't dowel rods work to fill holes?
Now I want to paint my cabinets!! Would you write a list of exactly everything that’s needed in order to paint them white, including what color/type of paints you used? I was going to take a professional and pay $3G to get my cabinets white and sleek but I got inspired to do this myself. Do you remove the shelves from inside and paint them separately?
I’ve had a few requests for something similar to this. What if I shoot a quick video running through the whole process and keep it short? Would that be better?
@@buildwithbc that would be awesome!! Thank you! We’re moving in a week and I would love to re do my cabinets on my own. I would love a video/list of all products/links to items that are needed to get this project done.
@@Leboroxit I will get one done for you today.
@@buildwithbc wow thank you so much!
@@Leboroxit I had to fly out of town for work for a couple days so I’m going to get this done for you when I get back
just a fyi your spray guard and tip should be able to be swapped from Both of you sprayers. 7/8" is universal for MOST spray guards and accessories
hahaha jaysus i seen A100 on the 5 gal and thought shit hes using garbage for cabinets lol.
Lol man, nope that was just an old bucket left over from when I painted my stucco walls in my backyard. Would never use that on cabinets! Good eyes!
Good job 👍🏻.....
Thank you so much 😀
What size of spray tip are you using with the Graco x5 for the cabinets? I just got a Graco sprayer but feel like the tip is a little too wide? Do I need to get a smaller one for spraying cabinets?
Kevin Hales for spraying trim, doors or cabinets use a small 208,308,310,210. Never go bigger because it puts too much paint on that can cause runs
Do you recommend using the 2-11 tip to spray interior doors and trim or something wider with a larger orifice? I have to paint both.
I would go with a wider fan than the 211 for entry doors. That only gives you a 4” wide fan. I spray my doors with a 312 FF tip if I’m applying SW Emerald Urethane enamel.
@@buildwithbc Thanks. I realized that I had already purchased the 311 and had forgot that I did. I should be good then.
Great videos. Did you satin or semi-gloss finish?
I have used both but I like the semigloss better.
Did that second sprayer give you a factory or near factory finish?
only a hvlp will give that
It’s gives you an amazing finish. The Sherwin Williams Urethane Trim Enamel levels so well. It makes it so anyone can lay down beautiful results.
on the video you use the cordless and the tip is 212 and with x5 you use the 211, if you use on the same cabinet, does it come out the same? also which one you would recommend , cordless or x5 for kitchen cabines? and which tip should i use to get the result like glass?
Vinh, yes the result is the same for both. There’s nearly no difference between those two tips. You’ll get the best results by spending your time prepping after you prime. Take some 320 grit sand paper and meticulously go over your doors after you prime. You can even do the same thing after your first coat of paint. Using the right paint will also help immensely.
Build With BC- Tips for DIY home projects ok ..thank you . I wanted to come out shine and smooth like factory little worry about that ...I am using emerald and bonding primer from SW. I will try with 320 . Thanks again . Have a great day !
Thanks for sharing this video! I'm planning to spray paint our kitchen cabinets. How do you clean up an oil-based primer, I've heard that oil based paint should be clean using mineral spirits. Do you have any tips?
The primer I use in my videos is water based. If you are using a different primer that is oil based, the can will tell you what to use for cleanup. It is typically mineral spirits or lacquer thinner.
Very much appreciate your video and tips, I have my oak cabinets doors off and decided on the Emerald but struggling with Extreme Bond primer like you used or Extreme Block also from SW. Have any experience with the extreme block? Seems lots of folks like that for oak. Again appreciate the video!
Hyatt Baker I haven’t worked with Extreme block. Can I ask what you are struggling with with the extreme bond?
You can DM me on Instagram it’s easier. @buildwithbc
is the x5 better with enamel based paints? i tried using the project plus painter and it kept clogging with enamel based paints.
Yes, much better!
Why do you not use the handheld sprayer for painting the doors?
I use the handheld sprayer to spray doors when I have smaller jobs. In this video I used my X5 airless because I was spraying quite a few doors and didn’t want to have to refill the paint canister multiple times. Either method works, I use the same tip on both sprayers and they turn out great every time.
Will a 2 gallon air compressor be adequate to low pressure spray?
It’s all about the CFM’s. My gut tells me you’d be working that compressor pretty dang hard.
A fine finish tip for that gun will give you 10x better results.
What tip would you recommend?
I use a 208FF or 210FF tip for the trim enamel and I use a 212FF tip for the Extreme Bond Primer.
Those little bumps on the doors are to keep the doors from banging when they close. I call them sticky bumps. If you only have a couple that are not working well enough, you can hot glue a dab on the door and leave the door open until it is dry and not sticky to your touch.
What primer and tip did you use?
I use Sherwin Williams Extreme Bond primer sprayed through a Graco 212 Fine Finish tip.
I see you have nothing covered in your shop. Do you have a problem with overspray getting on everything?
Larry, great observation. There is little to no overspray when you use the Fine Finish tips from Graco. This is why I love using them. That said, I do have a small paint booth I use when I have a large number of doors to paint.
Does Magnum give you a better finish than the cordless? I
The results are the same as far as I can tell. The low pressure tips seem to perform the same on either sprayer. I’m not a professional painter so maybe a pro can chime in and share their knowledge.
why didnt you use the cordless one on these doors.
I just wanted to mix it up and show a couple different options.
You’re not using the x5 which is linked?
I used both the Graco Magnum X5 as well as the Graco cordless Ultra in these videos. I wanted everyone to see how you can do the job with either or both sprayers.
i forgot about the sand paper for the orbit sander, what is the grid on the orbit sander that you used?
I had a worn out piece of 220 grit on my orbital sander in the video.
Nice video series. Learned a lot with you. Qq, did you have to thin the paint? My guess is that the SW recomends .15 tip for this paint, right?
No thinning needed here. I just used the tip suggested by Sherwin Williams and had no issues.
@@buildwithbc often the hand helds need a little thinning because the pumps are not nearly the strength of a larger sprayer. That SW urethane flows through the pump of that magnum. You want to really step up the game ...... grab an Ultra Max 490. That will blow you away.
You could have taken the guard and tip from your handheld and put it on your Magnum
Yes, great input here. The Rac X guard that comes on the Graco ultra screws right onto the Graco Magnum sprayer. Thank you Brady for adding your knowledge to the group.
What kind of primer do you use?
I use Extreme Bond Primer from Sherwin Williams
@@buildwithbc thank you
Good videos
@@joeygeronimo2 thank you!
Are you using a green spray tip? If so what size?
I am using a green spray tip (fine finish) so I can spray at a lower pressure. I had been using a FF 310 but I wanted a smaller spray path and a little less paint so I am now using a FF 208 tip. I have to dilute the Extreme Bond Primer down just a little because it’s really thick and doesn’t move well through that small of a tip. The Emerald paint however sprays perfectly through the FF 208 tip. Make sure you have a rac X guard base for your sprayer if you plan on using the green tips.
What are you using to dilute the paint and primer, just paint thinner? I just ordered a ff310 will that be ok or should I get the one you mentioned!
You won’t need to thin with that tip. If you ever did need to thin them you can use water for both.
Great job. I'm using a graco x5 to spray the extreme bond primer with a 315 RAC tip and getting some orange peel any recommendations?
Can you send me a pic through Instagram @buildwithbc and I’ll take a look. Without seeing it I would guess it’s an over application issue.
RageingFuser03 your spray tip is too large. Drop it down to a 208,308,210,310. You are still going to have a little peel with a airless
Tyler Davidson thanks Tyler I don't have an IG so I couldn't send you a picture but I'll try a smaller tip should I get it in fflp style? I kind of figured that in going to get some orange peel but my OCD is kicking
in I guess. Also, do you recommend thinning the material?
@@tylerdavidson5114 I have the x7 graco and it wont spray that primer with a 208 tip
Gary Dobrinich I wouldn’t use a 208 for primer. Maybe a blown out 208, I prefer a 10 thousands tip for primer so I can put it on a bit heavy
I use Benjamin Moore Advance semi gloss.
Advance is great. Self-levels, cures hard and durable. BUT it takes 16 hours drying between coats. So you're basically looking at 4 days of spraying just for topcoating (unless you hang doors to spray)
SW Emerald is 4 hr recoat time, levels better IMO, just as durable.
@@barryhall5125 at $90.00 per gallon...
Why did you use two different kinds of paint sprayers?
The cordless sprayer was busy elsewhere.
Supporting the video! However, u gotta wear respirator man. You shouldn't be breathing all that ceramic dust, that shit is not good for your lungs.
Chris, I absolutely do when I’m not shooting a video. I didn’t mention it but I will make sure I do moving forward.
What sprayer tip for the machine do you use?
I have a video I just put up with a link to everything I used in this video series. It should answer this question better than I can type it.
Do you have to clean the sprayer between coats or do you just clean the spray tip?
I just clean the tip out between coats.
@@buildwithbc How long do you wait between coats?
@@larrybrassard6914 it depends on the temperature and humidity. I live in Las Vegas where the humidity usually hovers around 7-10% so everything dries fast here. I usually wait 3-4 hours between coats on the cabinet boxes and I wait over night for doors and drawer fronts.
@@buildwithbc If you wait over night you leave the pick up tube in the can and just clean the tip?
@@larrybrassard6914 I clean everything up when I wait overnight. It only takes about 5-10 minutes to clean it all out so it’s not too bad.
Please let everyone know that you need good ventilation when using Acetone or Liquid Sand. Do not use them in a confined space.
I’ll add a note for that when I have a chance to ad an edit to the video.
"How to prevent a rough, porous finish when painting kitchen cabinet doors with a Graco sprayer?"
Don't set anything that you have painted on those yellow stands. They will leave indentions in paint. Real garbage.
She’s just watching you work bahahaha
Your hair is hilarious.
The sprayer you linked to doesn’t look like the one you used.
I used two different sprayers for this project. One was the Graco Ultra cordless sprayer and the other was the Graco Magnum X5. Both sprayers work in the same way and will yield the same results. I like to use the Magnum X5 when spraying more than a couple quarts of paint at one time.
That's a 211 tip??? A 211 is suppose to spray an 4" pattern.
Bert, great catch. The tip on the video is not a 211 tip. I had loaned out my handheld to a friend when I shot this part of the video and my other tips were in the bag with the sprayer. I used whatever I had at that time. I do t remember exactly what it was but it was way too wide.
Use a cheese cloth
I just love the endless comments on virtually every video upload on youtube from the "experts" on what you're doing wrong or should be doing instead. That's reason enough for me to never make a youtube video.
E E There are lots of “experts” out there ready to give their opinions for sure. Lucky for me I just do it for the love of remodeling. I have had several people send me pics of their cabinets that they did all on their own after watching my videos and they love the results. That’s all I need to keep making more. I have three more almost ready to go. I just need to finish editing them.
All the best,
BC
You skip the entire process of sanding your cabinet doors first.
Hard to hear you and you talk too fast. didn't catch half what you said.
Please wear a mask 😷
Dude, yer using acetone with no gloves, highly carcinogenic...;-(
Women use it to remove nail polish frequently. Thanks for pointing it out. I had no idea it was carcinogenic 😮
Get to the point dude.
What primer did you use?
Pablo Bon I use Extreme Bond Primer from Sherwin Williams. It’s amazing stuff!! I won’t use anything else.