I know this is an older video, but I just followed your advice with some old honrby LNER teaks, and it works a treat. The only small difference I did is I cut off the hook using my track clippers - much easier than firing up the old dremel! Thanks, and keep up the great content.
Excellent idea for closing the gap. I've built loads of Metcalfe Buildings and kept the larger off-cuts as they are so handy. Never thought of your idea. Thanks for that; I will be copying that next week. Brilliant, Cheers, Rick the Bulldog
Magnetic couplings are probably the best solution now. Those coaches are typical Hornby bodgefrom the 1970s. BR Mk1 CKs and a BSK. It does grate to see the BSK marked as First class, and the 1st class section of the CK. marked 3rd. Later coaches are much better. I would repaint them as BR.
Good solution, Bill. I think I will eventually bite the bullet and drill out the oversize Hornby coupling loops and replace them with the short Bachmann couplings glued in place.
There's a way of doing that with lima mk1s which gives good close coupling. You cut off the coupling loop completely and remove the hook from one end and the overhang from the remaining hook at the other end. then the hook on the coupler goes over the lip that's left where the other coupling used to be. Best done where you run stock in fixed sets.
They go over points no problem. As long you don't set the bent coupling arm too tight. There needs to be enough slack to allow the coupling arm to slide along the bar. And you need a little gap between the corridors.
I was thinking about the gap you demonstrated. Do you use uncoupling ramps? I bet it would cause a problem with those. Just grinding off the lower hook would mean they would be able to uncouple even under tension if they work at all.
@@Jules-zo3ds I don't use ramps but they could work depending on how you bend the bar. As long the part of the coupling that hits the ramp is at the correct height and the coupling isn't under tension it should work in theory. But I give no assurances.. 😉
Just cut all that junk off and install body-mounted Kadees. Those things don't even resemble couplers...Kadees actually look, and function like couplers...
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I know this is an older video, but I just followed your advice with some old honrby LNER teaks, and it works a treat. The only small difference I did is I cut off the hook using my track clippers - much easier than firing up the old dremel! Thanks, and keep up the great content.
Excellent idea for closing the gap. I've built loads of Metcalfe Buildings and kept the larger off-cuts as they are so handy. Never thought of your idea. Thanks for that; I will be copying that next week. Brilliant, Cheers, Rick the Bulldog
Great video, getting them closer is making the realism better
Magnetic couplings are probably the best solution now. Those coaches are typical Hornby bodgefrom the 1970s. BR Mk1 CKs and a BSK. It does grate to see the BSK marked as First class, and the 1st class section of the CK. marked 3rd. Later coaches are much better. I would repaint them as BR.
Very clever and innovative
Good solution, Bill. I think I will eventually bite the bullet and drill out the oversize Hornby coupling loops and replace them with the short Bachmann couplings glued in place.
There's a way of doing that with lima mk1s which gives good close coupling. You cut off the coupling loop completely and remove the hook from one end and the overhang from the remaining hook at the other end. then the hook on the coupler goes over the lip that's left where the other coupling used to be. Best done where you run stock in fixed sets.
I remember those between-carriage connectors sometimes being a cream shiny type fabric.. or was that only the interior?
I like the coaches and the Gantry bit would be a pain
will try that
Does it make a noticeable difference going over the points?
They go over points no problem. As long you don't set the bent coupling arm too tight. There needs to be enough slack to allow the coupling arm to slide along the bar. And you need a little gap between the corridors.
I was thinking about the gap you demonstrated. Do you use uncoupling ramps? I bet it would cause a problem with those. Just grinding off the lower hook would mean they would be able to uncouple even under tension if they work at all.
@@Jules-zo3ds I don't use ramps but they could work depending on how you bend the bar. As long the part of the coupling that hits the ramp is at the correct height and the coupling isn't under tension it should work in theory. But I give no assurances.. 😉
Just cut all that junk off and install body-mounted Kadees. Those things don't even resemble couplers...Kadees actually look, and function like couplers...