I want thank you. Yes thank you so very much for costing me do much money! Lol! I seen one of your videos were you had a couple of battery impacts setting around. Well I looked into the tools for the first time in about ten years and now I'm short about $1000 and climbing! Lol I started with dewalt 1/4 newest version (which may be the best) and am now rolling in milwaulkee. I'm up to about four now with more on there way. But that new dewalt with the three light spread, and a trigger type release for the bit is the most user friendly out of all of them. Love your videos! Thanks for the up grade in tools too!
If you do not replace the partition wall intake with the new metal clamp and the flange that the carb bolts to , it sill score again. 120 is not low 100 is Scoring on the intake side is caused by dirt not heat. As all the heat is on the exhaust side, Fuel and air cool the frontside. Looks like like a piece of the ring got caught on the intake port. Broke off and caused the damage. happens a lot with China made cylinder kits. Want a good after market buy a Meteor one. See me I have them
You share a lot of good information, but most of the time it's hard to see just what you are doing. Close ups can help to show just what parts you are referring to as you do the break down. Even better showing how you use the tools as you do the work. Thanks.
Thank you so much for your video. I had a second-hand 357xp with a number of the heat-sink fins broken off the cylinder which was resulting in it over heating. (I have no idea how the fins broke off. It was like that when i got it.) I was able to buy a cheap aftermarket cylinder and replace the broken one by following your video. $30 dollars for a cylinder/piston and I now have a perfectly working chainsaw. It only took 30 minutes worth of disassembly and assembly, but 4 hours of caked-on sawdust removal :).
Just wanted to let you know i bought a jonsered 2159 and i rebuild it/ got it running again with help of this video! Thanks for the info regarding the carb/boot. Keep the videos coming and keep up the good work!
mweba1, I have a 359 build in 04. It has been used as a backup. Recently the saw was shutting down. Since it has the old plastic manifold, i installed the new updated kit. I also replaced the impulse line, and the fuel line. I also took apart the carb, cleaned it and replaced the gaskets and diaphram. when i was done and restarted the saw, it did the same thing. saw will idle but if i try to run it, it shuts off.
I've found from experience that even when you rebuild a chainsaw carburetor it's a crap shoot. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. You're better off finding a good deal on a new carburetor.
I know this is 5 years ago, but spray some brake clean, or anything flamable at the intake boot after the saw is hot, and see if it dies from sucking in too much fuel (combustible material, in this case brake or carb clean, or what ever you have handy). If the saw dies, you have an intake air leak at the boot. Check out mweba1's other video showing the process, on maybe another saw. By the way mweba1 - Thanks for all the great videos. I've learned a lot from you!
I just picked up a older 359g and I put a new carb on it starts for about 5seconds and then won't start again for hours seems to flood itself any advice?
So how did you diagnose this problem? I got a 359 too, but the manifold clamp is the iron one. I didnt use my chainsaw for 4 months or so, and it was stored probberly. No gas in it, and no chain oil. Next time i used it, it idled rough some itmes it dies while "idle" and also gasses up. The rev keeps going up and down, and i cant cut with it cause it chokes when it get resistance by the wood. Changed the fuel lines, didnt help. Any suggestions?
Checking the spark screen is never bad advice although your string of negative ill advised posted shows. This individual ended up with a bad carb and replaced it. Problem solved. Mweba an Rod work on saws for a living and may know a thing or two. My mentally handicap daughter would resent that statement if she were able to interpret it. Good day.
you should know that a cylinder with a piston is not the same in the Husqvarna 357XP and 359 Husqvarna 357XP 46mm piston 4,4hp Cylinder stroke 34mm Husqvarna 359 47mm piston 3,9hp Cylinder stroke 34mm Who knows what is the difference smaller piston 1mm but larger 0.5 hp
Husqvarna 55 nu vrea mearga mai tare in lemn? cam are bariala foarte putrnica si cam reglazu t are pobleme e strs la macsim si tot nu inainteaza in lemn ?am desfacut t un pic si tot la fel ? si reglazu la l si h ?rog frumos/
Do you know the part number for the plastic intake boot? I'm wondering if someone produces a better part that has better clasp for it. Since, this is one of the know problems I just want to fix it when I have to replace the piston / cylinder.
@skywalke112583 The HDA 199's had the most issues with the nozzle/accelerator pump but it is not limited to just that model. I've had 372's and others with the same issue, just not as frequent.
I bought a used 359 with not much use. The saw runs great but should I address the carb issue now as far as switching to Zama? What about the intake boot or whatever that is that also caused some problems? Does it need to be addressed even though the saw hasn't had much use yet?
Walbro 199, I have on (2) 359 huskys, they run great.If a plastic intake clamp, they will leak eventually.If a person can identify when the saw is running lean, I suppose one could hold off worrying about the intake clamp.
By the way, I left the plastic clamp on it but I used Permatex on the intake. After it dries it would probably work as good as a clamp in my opinion. I do have a clamp just in case..
That rubber plug is referred to by Husqvarna as a "support". The "top cover" is held in 3 places by the 3 "buckles" to the crankcase. There are 2 buckles on the starter side & one on the PTO side. The "support", pushed in the front cylinder bolt hole on the PTO side, basically keeps the top cover nice & tight when the 3 buckles are snapped closed. It also keeps the heat from the cylinder fin off of the plastic cover. Hope this helps.
pressure test. This series of saws that had the plastic intake clamp, they all suck air.I sealed several with Threebond 1184.They won't come off or loosen again, lol.
I want thank you. Yes thank you so very much for costing me do much money! Lol! I seen one of your videos were you had a couple of battery impacts setting around. Well I looked into the tools for the first time in about ten years and now I'm short about $1000 and climbing! Lol I started with dewalt 1/4 newest version (which may be the best) and am now rolling in milwaulkee. I'm up to about four now with more on there way. But that new dewalt with the three light spread, and a trigger type release for the bit is the most user friendly out of all of them.
Love your videos! Thanks for the up grade in tools too!
If you do not replace the partition wall intake with the new metal clamp and the flange that the carb bolts to , it sill score again. 120 is not low 100 is Scoring on the intake side is caused by dirt not heat. As all the heat is on the exhaust side, Fuel and air cool the frontside.
Looks like like a piece of the ring got caught on the intake port. Broke off and caused the damage.
happens a lot with China made cylinder kits. Want a good after market buy a Meteor one. See me I have them
You share a lot of good information, but most of the time it's hard to see just what you are doing. Close ups can help to show just what parts you are referring to as you do the break down. Even better showing how you use the tools as you do the work.
Thanks.
IMO, Walbro makes a better carb than the Chinese Zama by far.
Not the model for this saw. Zama is the better carb.
Thank you so much for your video. I had a second-hand 357xp with a number of the heat-sink fins broken off the cylinder which was resulting in it over heating. (I have no idea how the fins broke off. It was like that when i got it.) I was able to buy a cheap aftermarket cylinder and replace the broken one by following your video. $30 dollars for a cylinder/piston and I now have a perfectly working chainsaw. It only took 30 minutes worth of disassembly and assembly, but 4 hours of caked-on sawdust removal :).
Just wanted to let you know i bought a jonsered 2159 and i rebuild it/ got it running again with help of this video! Thanks for the info regarding the carb/boot. Keep the videos coming and keep up the good work!
mweba1,
I have a 359 build in 04. It has been used as a backup. Recently the saw was shutting down. Since it has the old plastic manifold, i installed the new updated kit. I also replaced the impulse line, and the fuel line. I also took apart the carb, cleaned it and replaced the gaskets and diaphram. when i was done and restarted the saw, it did the same thing. saw will idle but if i try to run it, it shuts off.
I've found from experience that even when you rebuild a chainsaw carburetor it's a crap shoot. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. You're better off finding a good deal on a new carburetor.
I know this is 5 years ago, but spray some brake clean, or anything flamable at the intake boot after the saw is hot, and see if it dies from sucking in too much fuel (combustible material, in this case brake or carb clean, or what ever you have handy). If the saw dies, you have an intake air leak at the boot. Check out mweba1's other video showing the process, on maybe another saw. By the way mweba1 - Thanks for all the great videos. I've learned a lot from you!
Shout out to the skate deck in the background!
Oh man. Rocked a Frankie Hill mini all through the 90's. Good Ole days when my knees weren't chit.
I just picked up a older 359g and I put a new carb on it starts for about 5seconds and then won't start again for hours seems to flood itself any advice?
So how did you diagnose this problem? I got a 359 too, but the manifold clamp is the iron one. I didnt use my chainsaw for 4 months or so, and it was stored probberly. No gas in it, and no chain oil. Next time i used it, it idled rough some itmes it dies while "idle" and also gasses up. The rev keeps going up and down, and i cant cut with it cause it chokes when it get resistance by the wood. Changed the fuel lines, didnt help. Any suggestions?
Hab auch eine Husqvarna 359...
Alles top
Checking the spark screen is never bad advice although your string of negative ill advised posted shows. This individual ended up with a bad carb and replaced it. Problem solved. Mweba an Rod work on saws for a living and may know a thing or two.
My mentally handicap daughter would resent that statement if she were able to interpret it. Good day.
Master, how many hours will the piston last from the news before the xp saw loses compression?
you should know that a cylinder with a piston is not the same in the Husqvarna 357XP and 359
Husqvarna 357XP 46mm piston 4,4hp Cylinder stroke 34mm
Husqvarna 359 47mm piston 3,9hp Cylinder stroke 34mm
Who knows what is the difference
smaller piston 1mm but larger 0.5 hp
Husqvarna 55 nu vrea mearga mai tare in lemn? cam are bariala foarte
putrnica si cam reglazu t are pobleme e strs la macsim si tot nu inainteaza in lemn ?am desfacut t un pic si tot la fel ? si reglazu la l si h ?rog frumos/
@mauipalmandtreecare They are in the vid description
It got a Zama C3-EL42 carburator, i couldnt find any airleaks at the intake manifold, i have ordered a carb rebuild kit for now.
onestly i have h365 and h372xp with walbro carburetor, but i dont have problems with them!
Do you know the part number for the plastic intake boot? I'm wondering if someone produces a better part that has better clasp for it. Since, this is one of the know problems I just want to fix it when I have to replace the piston / cylinder.
You seem knowledgeable so what do you think of "auto tune"?
Do you think it will work 5-10 years down the road?
hey bro can you tell me what the part number is for the zama carb. whats the zama carb model name?
@skywalke112583 The HDA 199's had the most issues with the nozzle/accelerator pump but it is not limited to just that model. I've had 372's and others with the same issue, just not as frequent.
Master, I have 372 xp 2003 Epa probably has 2 rings, are 2 rings better than 1 or worse what's the difference?
Friend, what is the best max speed for 372 xp oem?
I need a new cyllinder for my 357xp, what would u recommend, link
I bought a used 359 with not much use. The saw runs great but should I address the carb issue now as far as switching to Zama? What about the intake boot or whatever that is that also caused some problems? Does it need to be addressed even though the saw hasn't had much use yet?
Walbro 199, I have on (2) 359 huskys, they run great.If a plastic intake clamp, they will leak eventually.If a person can identify when the saw is running lean, I suppose one could hold off worrying about the intake clamp.
Thanks for sharing, very useful
did the guy buy the saw for parts or what?
So what was causing compression loss?
what could you recommand?husky359 or stihl ms290?
Thanks for makin this video man it helped me 110%!!!
Which carb does your saw have? Did you check for air leaks or install a carb kit?
Would like to try zama over hd12b on 372xp , do you know the number of zama carb ?
I stuck with the Walbro after my rebuild and it's doing okay. If I have trouble with it I'm gonna try the Zama.
By the way, I left the plastic clamp on it but I used Permatex on the intake. After it dries it would probably work as good as a clamp in my opinion. I do have a clamp just in case..
is that a good saw? i would like buy that
is that a good saw?i would like buy that
What's that black plug that comes it the top right hole of the cylinder on a 359/357XP?
That rubber plug is referred to by Husqvarna as a "support". The "top cover" is held in 3 places by the 3 "buckles" to the crankcase. There are 2 buckles on the starter side & one on the PTO side. The "support", pushed in the front cylinder bolt hole on the PTO side, basically keeps the top cover nice & tight when the 3 buckles are snapped closed. It also keeps the heat from the cylinder fin off of the plastic cover. Hope this helps.
How can you tell there is a leak in the seals on the crankcase or that they maybe a problem? Thanks for the great videos. You do a great job.
pressure test. This series of saws that had the plastic intake clamp, they all suck air.I sealed several with Threebond 1184.They won't come off or loosen again, lol.
Little Nicholas and his MS170
which quality is better? husky or stihl?
I have been a logger for 30 plus years. ALL the saws are good if not great. Your saw is only as good as the operator.
140 psi Good compresion 372xp oem?
Yes as gauges are not very accurate. Inspect the piston by removing muffler.
@@mweba1 so the power should still be factory?
@@Sensei948 If internals are in good condition, yes.
@@mweba1 oil mix 1:33 ls + ?
Clear voice and volume always helps the viewer. So many presenters tend to lapse into a mumble, so we miss stuff.