Ported and modded Husqvarna 357XP in the process of being built. Lot of concepts still being formed here, I am not an expert on two stoke porting. Learning as I go.
I ported a cylinder just in the last year a 78 Yamaha dt400 and I got pretty good results I didn't use the degree wheel it was my first cylinder I just raised and widened the ports and it's working pretty good I lost some low end but that's to be expected but I've gained a lot of mid-range.
Curious too to see how it runs. Looks great, I think is going to be a strong runner! I have a 357 with a garbage am cylinder. I took that off and have an oem w/ meteor piston. Cleaned up the exhaust, muffler mod and I’m going to do a base gasket delete but I’m going to have to put 1 mm gasket as squish was just too tight, it was just under 16 tho.
The saw ran nicely but was unremarkable in the power department. I am used to the Hyper version, so stock or lightly molded 357's are often a disappointment to me. I am going to try a new approach for my torque challenge. I need a non-stuffed bottom end to try. The next saw to be ported is for a customer, a 390XP, I have high hopes for it. We will see. When I get some fresh logs in, I will take out all three 357's for a video. As for your squish clearance , I run .018" all the time on the 357's, even in the 395XP, although I prefer 020"+ for the big guys. That close has never been a problem. You may want to make sure that the measurement is checked at a few indexed positions though. You could lightly file the piston crown to get your .018" min clearance. What I experience with just a base gasket delete on a OE 357 top end is more low end and less top end, not a bad move for the little guy.
Are you getting to 14,500 on your tach? I’d think that you would have to raise your transfers if you’re deleting the base gasket? I’m gonna have to get the degree wheel on these little fellas to see roughly where they are? I’m definitely thinking more air volume means greater performance??? You definitely dropped your walls on that deep version?
@@davidthorne6796 Are you getting to 14,500 on your tach? Yes, but not with the cylinder you see me working on in this video. I get over 15k with the Hyper ported saw, free revving. maybe 15.5. Please see my latest video for the Hyper running. The port work in that saw is very similar the one pictured in this video at 12:09. I am not trying to build a race saw, just a spicy work saw.
I use both a heated presser washer for the case mostly and Kirkland powdered laundry detergent in a tub for soaking; high concentration. If you intend to soak the magnesium parts, do not heat the detergent, and do not exceed 12 hours. The stuff works great and it will not rust the steel parts. It will soften up all the crap and then you can brush it off in a sink. I have also used a dishwasher. I have one in my shop; but it has yet to be permanently hooked up.
Hi sir, do you change the fuel jet inside the carburetor after you did the port work or you just leave the standart fuel mainjet inside the carburetor ?
Can’t you delete the stuffers to increase the crank volume? Does not make sense to increase volume and thereby increasing the power? I’m getting my first 357xp on Monday! I’m very excited as I’m a big fan of the 350’s.... that looks like 1184 on your base? You say you go by measuring??? Do you know those rough numbers off the top of your head? You are the first person I’ve ever heard that also uses measurement when building a saw they have done a bunch... I port with my mic’s....👍😁. I have two oem jugs to clean up??? Checking hls on meteor stuff....
@@davidthorne6796 "Can’t you delete the stuffers to increase the crank volume?" Yes, you will need to split the block and remove the bearings to do so. "Does not make sense to increase volume and thereby increasing the power?" That deepens and I do not have a clear answer for you. I have a 359 here now I was going to build the same as a 357 and see how it compares. I do know you will need to adapt the intake timing from the 359, as you change the tune of the intake tracked when you change crank case volume. An OEM 359 has more intake duration, a good bit more. "that looks like 1184 on your base?" I use Teflon tape often if the machined sacrifices are flat enough. And I sometimes use 1184. But when I know I've got a good combo I cut the base and use a gasket. "Do you know those rough numbers off the top of your head?" No, but I can get them for you. "Checking hls on meteor stuff...." I love Meteor parts, be very mindful of your ring end gap!!! Caber rings are great, but sometimes fit tight in the hole, have broken a few saws this way, .004" per inch of bore does not cut it on a hot saw. I intend to make a video on this soon.
Trimming and correcting your ring end gap is huge! People build saw’s that they can barely pull over thinking that their going to have massive power due to huge compression numbers only to end up with a catastrophic failure! I’m really glad I found your channel... wonderful analysis and analytical thinking! A+ !!!
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Cut down in a traailer for years. 357 was fine kept runnin big fan of these saws
I ported a cylinder just in the last year a 78 Yamaha dt400 and I got pretty good results I didn't use the degree wheel it was my first cylinder I just raised and widened the ports and it's working pretty good I lost some low end but that's to be expected but I've gained a lot of mid-range.
You clean your saws like I do Spotless......
Parabens pelo video ,.
Awsome
Curious too to see how it runs. Looks great, I think is going to be a strong runner! I have a 357 with a garbage am cylinder. I took that off and have an oem w/ meteor piston.
Cleaned up the exhaust, muffler mod and I’m going to do a base gasket delete but I’m going to have to put 1 mm gasket as squish was just too tight, it was just under 16 tho.
The saw ran nicely but was unremarkable in the power department. I am used to the Hyper version, so stock or lightly molded 357's are often a disappointment to me. I am going to try a new approach for my torque challenge. I need a non-stuffed bottom end to try. The next saw to be ported is for a customer, a 390XP, I have high hopes for it.
We will see. When I get some fresh logs in, I will take out all three 357's for a video. As for your squish clearance , I run .018" all the time on the 357's, even in the 395XP, although I prefer 020"+ for the big guys.
That close has never been a problem. You may want to make sure that the measurement is checked at a few indexed positions though. You could lightly file the piston crown to get your .018" min clearance. What I experience with just a base gasket delete on a OE 357 top end is more low end and less top end, not a bad move for the little guy.
Are you getting to 14,500 on your tach? I’d think that you would have to raise your transfers if you’re deleting the base gasket? I’m gonna have to get the degree wheel on these little fellas to see roughly where they are? I’m definitely thinking more air volume means greater performance??? You definitely dropped your walls on that deep version?
That meteor is 58cc’s ???
@@davidthorne6796 59cc.
@@davidthorne6796 Are you getting to 14,500 on your tach? Yes, but not with the cylinder you see me working on in this video.
I get over 15k with the Hyper ported saw, free revving. maybe 15.5. Please see my latest video for the Hyper running. The port work in that saw is very similar the one pictured in this video at 12:09. I am not trying to build a race saw, just a spicy work saw.
Are you looking for any work? I've got a new 462, and a 395 Husqvarna I'd love to have ported.
What did you use to clean the saw? Gas seems to work best for me.
I use both a heated presser washer for the case mostly and Kirkland powdered laundry detergent in a tub for soaking; high concentration. If you intend to soak the magnesium parts, do not heat the detergent, and do not exceed 12 hours. The stuff works great and it will not rust the steel parts. It will soften up all the crap and then you can brush it off in a sink.
I have also used a dishwasher. I have one in my shop; but it has yet to be permanently hooked up.
Hello, Do you know what the stock squish clearance was? Where can I find a meteor cylinder and or piston? Thank you JFN
I will get to your question soon. Just tied up right now.
Great info here, thanks for sharing👍🏻 Did I here you correctly “$22-$23 for the wrist pin?”
I believe so, yes.
@@TADman4003 Friend, what is the best max speed for 372 xp oem?
Hi sir, do you change the fuel jet inside the carburetor after you did the port work or you just leave the standart fuel mainjet inside the carburetor ?
Only if it's a Zema.
Did you put those windows in the piston or did it come that way just wondering since you are using a closed port cylinder
I put them in, and the video explains why.
@@TADman4003 oil mix 33:1 ?
Post the run video when u complete this, i just got a 357 swapped 359. Curious how those meteor top ends hold up.
Will do. Lots in the works in the saw shop.
@@TADman4003 I think it's high time for a follow up video on this saw! Thanks!
@@reddtekk I agree.
What sealant do you use for gasket delete?
Three Bond 1184
Od czego ten tłok?
How bout a tuned pipe ?
That would be fun.
Am şi eu 357 xp spunețimi ce capacitate cilindrică are
56.6 cc 3.2 kw
Is that a 359 crank in a 357xp?
With stuffers yes.
Can’t you delete the stuffers to increase the crank volume? Does not make sense to increase volume and thereby increasing the power? I’m getting my first 357xp on Monday! I’m very excited as I’m a big fan of the 350’s.... that looks like 1184 on your base? You say you go by measuring??? Do you know those rough numbers off the top of your head? You are the first person I’ve ever heard that also uses measurement when building a saw they have done a bunch... I port with my mic’s....👍😁. I have two oem jugs to clean up??? Checking hls on meteor stuff....
@@davidthorne6796
"Can’t you delete the stuffers to increase the crank volume?" Yes, you will need to split the block and remove the bearings to do so.
"Does not make sense to increase volume and thereby increasing the power?" That deepens and I do not have a clear answer for you.
I have a 359 here now I was going to build the same as a 357 and see how it compares. I do know you will need to adapt the intake timing from the 359, as you change the tune of the intake tracked when you change crank case volume. An OEM 359 has more intake duration, a good bit more.
"that looks like 1184 on your base?" I use Teflon tape often if the machined sacrifices are flat enough. And I sometimes use 1184. But when I know I've got a good combo I cut the base and use a gasket. "Do you know those rough numbers off the top of your head?" No, but I can get them for you. "Checking hls on meteor stuff...." I love Meteor parts, be very mindful of your ring end gap!!! Caber rings are great, but sometimes fit tight in the hole, have broken a few saws this way, .004" per inch of bore does not cut it on a hot saw. I intend to make a video on this soon.
Trimming and correcting your ring end gap is huge! People build saw’s that they can barely pull over thinking that their going to have massive power due to huge compression numbers only to end up with a catastrophic failure! I’m really glad I found your channel... wonderful analysis and analytical thinking! A+ !!!
@@davidthorne6796 Thank you! I intend to make more videos for folks who love saws and modding.
Bro do it right.