You may want to reduce the maximum charge voltage of the batteries to prolong their lifespan, since batteries stored at 100% SoC lose around 20% capacity per year per battery university BU-808. If the reduction in total capacity causes issues with road trips, you could add a DIP switch to enable full charge for planned outings. Fun little project!
A recessed push toggle on the front panel would be perfect. Have it normally recessed in the front panel, and limiting the charge voltage. Then if you press it, it pops out, raising the change votlage.
Frickin' awesome. I love when pesky personal preferences get in the way of good part selection and you really have to go down the rabbit hole for that just-right part.
I'd never heard of them, either. I did a little research, and aluminum nitride seems like a perfect thermal material: it's got almost the same thermal conductivity as copper, but its conductivity is somewhere between that of deionized water and glass.
Look in to emergency light module AGM batteries; they're available in 6 and 12 volt, run between 2.5-5 amp hour and would fit perfectly in the space you're working with.
That's what I was thinking, too. I also remember Big Clive doing a teardown of a headlamp with an AGM battery that couldn't have been bigger than 10 cm x 10 cm x 10 cm.
Awesome! It seems that reliable power is becoming more and more a must, not just for PPM's but for convenience and safety, now that everyone is so dependant on electronic devices whole home backup power is becoming more and more desired. Thanks for the cool circuit, too bad the ubiquitous TP4056 couldnt be used. I think you should add in better power flow for the device. That way the 250mA current limit can be bypassed. It looks like you have 24v going to the linear charger then buffered directly by the battery then to a 7812 to the stable 12v output. What I suggest you do is add 2 diodes to the input of the 7812, the first coming from the battery to the 7812, the second coming from the main input (24v) to the 7812, that way as long as the input supply is higher than the battery voltage (meaning the batteries could be charging) then the power goes directly to the 7812 meaning you could get a max of 1A of pass through power (provided enough cooling was given to the 7812). Then when the supply voltage drops below the battery voltage then it will start to draw the batteries down while still being able to source a maximum of 1A. I do this alot with my DC UPS circuits and I use ideal diode boards which keep the efficiency and current handling high when feeding buck/boost converters, in your application the PPM's are more important than efficiency so diodes would actually help by reducing the voltage by ~0.5v sharing the heat of the 7812. Not only does this increase the current handling capability but it also significantly reduces the "micro cycles" the batteries see, because of voltage drop under varying loads the charge voltage of the cells will be constantly changing with each increase and decrease of throughput current. This should allow the cells to also have a significantly increased lifespan while also increasing the total passthrough current capability. I always get annoyed when manufacturers dont implement this feature, the cost is very low and will make it last a much longer amount of time! I hope this helps and good luck on the next project/revision!
I like these small projects. There's more complexity than I assume, most of the time and your tendency to use both belt and suspenders is both amusing and thought-provoking. Thanks for sharing this.
i don´t get why this guy does not have more subs. I am binging all his Videos the last couple of days. I don´t really understand what he is even doing but it is really entertaining
i really appreciate the thought given to sustainability! I have held off on a lot of new hobbies because of the confluence of "i already am pretty good at woodworking and would like to do more" and "the world doesn't need more plastic and e-waste". if i really need something 3d printed other than upgrades to my theoretical 3d printer that i could get, i'll just get one of my friends or a library to do it!
Great little project. Currently building a solar system using a Tesla S battery pack. Definitely adding redundant protection to keep it form going into goblin mode. (will remember that term) Have to keep the all 432 18650 cells happy.
The throttle temperature is around 90-100°C so a bit too warm for normal 18650s ... there are however special cells with a high temperature electrolyte where this might work
Dang, I've been thinking of doing something like this for my Resin 3D printer. Relatively low power but definitely a problem with power interrupts. What if it had an adjustable output voltage and 'read' the DC voltage during normal operation, and used that as the setpoint? Seems relatively easy and also useful!
For a moment there I thought I was witnessing some KiCad wizardry right in front of my very eyes. Regardless, using the regulator in parallel with the charge controller is some wizardry of it's own. I might want to put that one up my sleeve. I'm actually in the process of designing the charger circuitry for my hopefully commercial project. I said to myself "It'll charge using power from USB. How hard could it be?"... Several weeks later, 4 largely different circuit variations, and the constant uncovering of new "gotchas" that the USB IF sprinkled in the spec like rotten easter eggs. And of course I'm doing all this while trying to work around the limitations of non-ideal parts since the ones I actually want have a 1000 year lead time.
First, build a time machine out of NOS parts. Then, go a thousand years into the future to grab the long lead time parts when they're ready. Or you can go back in time a couple years to pick up parts that use to be in stock. Then, return to the present and build your project.
Another good video from Marco Reps ! And showing to a DIY audience all those scarse and hard to find components is akin to showing fields of coca plants to people with chemical dependency/adiction problems .... it does not help on this times of chip scarcity ... 😀
Hey, if you want to use SLA, I recall an old cordless phone battery we sold at hardware stores that used lead acid. Little smaller than an altoids tin.
I am a physicsbro by education, and far down the stack of people who know anything about electronics. I came from the electronics wisdom, and stayed for the voice. Jesus christ you should have a second career in voice over, I could listen to you for hours.
That's a lot of effort to go to for a 7 hour charge cycle. Have you considered using LiFePO4 which is totally happy with a current-limited, constant-voltage charge profile? Two (or if you're clever, one) linear regulator and you're good to go. Plus the balancing, but since you're building a constant-voltage supply, that can be just some shunt regulators around each cell.
Omg metal can transistors! They do exist! Where can we get them, especially those of us learning EE on the internet and Udemy on disability afgrr a massive stroke? Beautiful components, dreaming here
Is pdf shown at 0:39 correct?? "Taintanium-Nitrate" note the "a" as second letter, and they refer to it as "TaN". It is not written as Titanium Nitrate or TiN. Google returns nothing for "TAitanium Nitrate", just treats it as a typo of titanium nitrate.
Yes, it's a bit strange: My DC-DC converter on the reference module uses this eXtRemE iSOlAtIon idea to attenuate all incoming common mode noise. I made a video about it. So whatever I do on the battery module should mostly disappear. But systematically it just didn't feel right to have a potential noise source there
Isn't it a better idea to have the two linear regulators as far away from each other as possible, so they dont heat each other up? That way each can have more surface area for cooling.
I was looking into that MPP Solar off grid system you have but I have a question. Can it be set to NOT charge the batteries from the grid once they are empty but ONLY charge the batteries when there is enough solar power? Thanks for your time.
Can the output regulator be swaped for instants with a LT1084 for more juice? or is even a pin to pin compatible regulator? Or is it better just to parallel another l7812 for simplicity sakes :)
I see another invertor charging a battery, why do DC2DC charging circuits get so rare. I see them only for car batteries. I spent time searching for something to charge my bike batteries without the need to carry a full charger and using inverters on the Stationary power stations.
Hey, what program do you use for schematic design, and do you know of a half decent free program that can be used to create gerber files? Great video as always, props from a Canadian electrical student :D
2:47 You're either so good that you know exactly how wide each component is or you recorded yourself deleting every part and played it backwards for the presentation. I'm on to you with your movie magic wizardry.
I highly doubt even the best of the best designers make no mistakes that require deletion or reposition. This seems like an automated replay/redraw of an already designed shematic.
4000 hours? Didn't you forget some parenthesis there? 28Wh / (0.084A x 12V) should be less than 28 hours, very long, but not unreasonable, if you don't need to transport it very frequently.
@@reps Yes, as you wrote two lines above, 184mA total, subtract 100mA for the module, and you have the remaining 84mA that you used to calculate, so there is no need to worry about the 1W for the module since it's already taken care of, at least according to your calculations 😉
I kinda hate his schematic timelapse. he just records himself deleting the schematic then reverses the video. but it does look good and takes way less time
I would say it takes more time to first design it and then record deleting everything. What he is doing is instead saving time of his viewers (while making it look pleasingly effortless).
@@ristomatti What i hate is making it look effortless part. Doing that takes a lots of time an a tremendous amount of research. I just feel like it does not show how difficult that process is. Does look good to the audience tho.
@@Ender_Wiggin I'm with you on that. I'm still stuck in the occasional THT protoboard phase with my hobby. The topics covered seem to be on a completely different level, so it feels natural for me to skip the gory details of the actual work. It will likely also attract a much wider audience keeping the videos short. :)
You may want to reduce the maximum charge voltage of the batteries to prolong their lifespan, since batteries stored at 100% SoC lose around 20% capacity per year per battery university BU-808. If the reduction in total capacity causes issues with road trips, you could add a DIP switch to enable full charge for planned outings. Fun little project!
good idea
A recessed push toggle on the front panel would be perfect. Have it normally recessed in the front panel, and limiting the charge voltage. Then if you press it, it pops out, raising the change votlage.
@@reps wanna do a follow up? :D
Yup, keep the li-ions at ~70% charge and they'll still have over 90% life left half a decade later
9:32 "The danger is still present, in your time, as it was in ours."
That's a deep cut
The danger is unleashed only if you substantially disturb this place physically
no highly esteemed deed is commemorated here
Well, it's safer than LCO.
What is here was dangerous and repulsive to us.
11:39 There is a distinct lack of "panic" indicators in modern electronic. Thanks for your work in fighting that.
I think a flashing red led and a wailing piezoelectric buzzer would be best!
We need more blinkenlights in modern products
that's what the NMC cells are for...visual, auditory and thermal indicator of panic mode :P
@@namAehT Primary reason why I always opt for Ethernet over Wifi.
Frickin' awesome. I love when pesky personal preferences get in the way of good part selection and you really have to go down the rabbit hole for that just-right part.
Woah, really cool approach to thermal management! Never heard of those thermal coupling components!
I'd never heard of them, either. I did a little research, and aluminum nitride seems like a perfect thermal material: it's got almost the same thermal conductivity as copper, but its conductivity is somewhere between that of deionized water and glass.
I've never seen such crisp tutorial from start to finish with Schematic and Layout also shown. Thanks. Please keep up the good work.
Talk about supply chain issues, 0:13 looks like DigiKey shipped a hardware bug in with your components!
😨😱
Nice catch lol
What bug? The sound that that thing does when it hits the table is the one of an electronic component, not a bug.
@@Ismsanmar Actual bug lol, go to the timestamp, pause and go frame by frame, you'll see a bug fall out of the bag and run off the table.
Fortunately, it didn't came from Australia!
I'm intrigued by the thermal couplers...cheers.
SMD resistors without the resistive layer, but costing more. genius
Look in to emergency light module AGM batteries; they're available in 6 and 12 volt, run between 2.5-5 amp hour and would fit perfectly in the space you're working with.
That's what I was thinking, too. I also remember Big Clive doing a teardown of a headlamp with an AGM battery that couldn't have been bigger than 10 cm x 10 cm x 10 cm.
Awesome! It seems that reliable power is becoming more and more a must, not just for PPM's but for convenience and safety, now that everyone is so dependant on electronic devices whole home backup power is becoming more and more desired.
Thanks for the cool circuit, too bad the ubiquitous TP4056 couldnt be used.
I think you should add in better power flow for the device. That way the 250mA current limit can be bypassed. It looks like you have 24v going to the linear charger then buffered directly by the battery then to a 7812 to the stable 12v output. What I suggest you do is add 2 diodes to the input of the 7812, the first coming from the battery to the 7812, the second coming from the main input (24v) to the 7812, that way as long as the input supply is higher than the battery voltage (meaning the batteries could be charging) then the power goes directly to the 7812 meaning you could get a max of 1A of pass through power (provided enough cooling was given to the 7812). Then when the supply voltage drops below the battery voltage then it will start to draw the batteries down while still being able to source a maximum of 1A.
I do this alot with my DC UPS circuits and I use ideal diode boards which keep the efficiency and current handling high when feeding buck/boost converters, in your application the PPM's are more important than efficiency so diodes would actually help by reducing the voltage by ~0.5v sharing the heat of the 7812.
Not only does this increase the current handling capability but it also significantly reduces the "micro cycles" the batteries see, because of voltage drop under varying loads the charge voltage of the cells will be constantly changing with each increase and decrease of throughput current. This should allow the cells to also have a significantly increased lifespan while also increasing the total passthrough current capability. I always get annoyed when manufacturers dont implement this feature, the cost is very low and will make it last a much longer amount of time!
I hope this helps and good luck on the next project/revision!
Finally, he repsloaded a new repsisode. It was about time!
What a repsplendent one, too
I like these small projects. There's more complexity than I assume, most of the time and your tendency to use both belt and suspenders is both amusing and thought-provoking. Thanks for sharing this.
You saved my day with your upload!😍
exactly
How?
Marco desperately trying to build battery back ups before Germany runs out of electricity.
the must survive
@@reps Glad to see you got your PPMs their very own fluffer. Gotta keep them UP and running.
i don´t get why this guy does not have more subs. I am binging all his Videos the last couple of days. I don´t really understand what he is even doing but it is really entertaining
Great content as always dude, really glad I discovered your chanel
i really appreciate the thought given to sustainability! I have held off on a lot of new hobbies because of the confluence of "i already am pretty good at woodworking and would like to do more" and "the world doesn't need more plastic and e-waste". if i really need something 3d printed other than upgrades to my theoretical 3d printer that i could get, i'll just get one of my friends or a library to do it!
I literally have half completed designs for an almost identical project lol. Yours is much fancier than mine.
Great little project.
Currently building a solar system using a Tesla S battery pack. Definitely adding redundant protection to keep it form going into goblin mode. (will remember that term)
Have to keep the all 432 18650 cells happy.
You're starting out with firecrackers, so good luck with that.
UPSs are always fun for me - I like practical applications like this. Good work!
Great work as always
Brilliant work, Marco! Nicely done! 😃
And you just gave me some ideas for a (much simpler) project of mine!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Cant wait for the full video on the ADRmu
awesome project, and great to hear your design proces
I just wished my desk was this clean
your 10v standard unit is awesome!!!!!
This is amazing. You got me ideas to do a similar thing to power my hi-fi dac 😃
I like the way you had a BQ77915 in with the junk in your pocket.
It is always fun and usefull to many of us !
No ads. Edit: Very cool.
great project 👍
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍🙂
More of those reverse-played schematic deleting scenes! They look great :)
Could've just used 2xLM317 in series, first in current limiting configuration, second in voltage-limiting config
Would the thermal throttling also be able to help protecting the batteries, if mounted close to them, or is the throttle temperature too high?
The throttle temperature is around 90-100°C so a bit too warm for normal 18650s ... there are however special cells with a high temperature electrolyte where this might work
@@LordPrecision yup the latest version has an additional footprint for a leaded thermistor
Nice job!
i love all the ancient dead memes you rattle off constantly
Dang, I've been thinking of doing something like this for my Resin 3D printer. Relatively low power but definitely a problem with power interrupts. What if it had an adjustable output voltage and 'read' the DC voltage during normal operation, and used that as the setpoint? Seems relatively easy and also useful!
For a moment there I thought I was witnessing some KiCad wizardry right in front of my very eyes. Regardless, using the regulator in parallel with the charge controller is some wizardry of it's own. I might want to put that one up my sleeve.
I'm actually in the process of designing the charger circuitry for my hopefully commercial project. I said to myself "It'll charge using power from USB. How hard could it be?"... Several weeks later, 4 largely different circuit variations, and the constant uncovering of new "gotchas" that the USB IF sprinkled in the spec like rotten easter eggs. And of course I'm doing all this while trying to work around the limitations of non-ideal parts since the ones I actually want have a 1000 year lead time.
First, build a time machine out of NOS parts. Then, go a thousand years into the future to grab the long lead time parts when they're ready. Or you can go back in time a couple years to pick up parts that use to be in stock. Then, return to the present and build your project.
Another good video from Marco Reps ! And showing to a DIY audience all those scarse and hard to find components is akin to showing fields of coca plants to people with chemical dependency/adiction problems .... it does not help on this times of chip scarcity ... 😀
Holy shit that beep at 8:26 scared me lol.
0:13 Your project haven't even started yet and it's already full of bugs. It escaped, thankfully.
JBC Forever
GBC forever
@@reps 🤣☺️😉
Is that a DALL-E Thumbnail background? Nice :D
Hey, if you want to use SLA, I recall an old cordless phone battery we sold at hardware stores that used lead acid. Little smaller than an altoids tin.
I sure hate it when my lithium cells go goblin mode
I do like this build lol, not boring!!
8:25 What kind of sorcery is this?
the moist kind
Water turning to steam and making things go pop.
I am a physicsbro by education, and far down the stack of people who know anything about electronics. I came from the electronics wisdom, and stayed for the voice. Jesus christ you should have a second career in voice over, I could listen to you for hours.
That's a lot of effort to go to for a 7 hour charge cycle. Have you considered using LiFePO4 which is totally happy with a current-limited, constant-voltage charge profile? Two (or if you're clever, one) linear regulator and you're good to go.
Plus the balancing, but since you're building a constant-voltage supply, that can be just some shunt regulators around each cell.
Watch again from 9:15 onwards.
Omg metal can transistors! They do exist! Where can we get them, especially those of us learning EE on the internet and Udemy on disability afgrr a massive stroke? Beautiful components, dreaming here
are you calling my a transistor? 😁
Ye I want to use a few LTZ1000 but most I can afford is TL431 lol
10:42 Does anyone else hear the little pop and see the puff of smoke drift across their screen?
Is pdf shown at 0:39 correct?? "Taintanium-Nitrate" note the "a" as second letter, and they refer to it as "TaN". It is not written as Titanium Nitrate or TiN. Google returns nothing for "TAitanium Nitrate", just treats it as a typo of titanium nitrate.
That was super cool!
Way to cut deep with the casual memes ;-)
Isn't your voltage standard isolation converter an "evil switcher"? So why not just make the charging a switcher as well?
Yes, it's a bit strange: My DC-DC converter on the reference module uses this eXtRemE iSOlAtIon idea to attenuate all incoming common mode noise. I made a video about it. So whatever I do on the battery module should mostly disappear. But systematically it just didn't feel right to have a potential noise source there
I once tried to build a battery pack using an LTC 4006... The thing is very picky about its surroundings. Maybe it works on the next try:)
Nice! Thanks a lot 😀
Isn't it a better idea to have the two linear regulators as far away from each other as possible, so they dont heat each other up? That way each can have more surface area for cooling.
Hi, you used a dab of grey glue to fix the bodged Wires to the Bord. This looks very interesting, what glue was that?
I was looking into that MPP Solar off grid system you have but I have a question. Can it be set to NOT charge the batteries from the grid once they are empty but ONLY charge the batteries when there is enough solar power? Thanks for your time.
1:50 I'm failing to see the problem here. You can make it fit if you use it wrong enough.
*[ G O B L I N | M O D E ]*
Watched this on the big TV and when my boyfriend saw the 3458 he said "oh I like his HiFi" and screamed. Had to share
10:21 What thermalgun is that ? Does it cost a lot ?
Did I mess the video for the design of the 10V reference board?
Oh man wish you did with this lead acid. I’m currently working on my own and would’ve nice if I could just copy yours 😔
i would love if you did a video on the "JBC copys from aliexpress" Like the SUGON-A9 Soldering Station :), Your videos are amazing!
Can't the LM317 do CC and CV mode? Im pretty sure it's in the pdf documentation
goddamn, how far has the goblin mode meme spread already?
when feeding a reference module with PPM's can you not use Super Caps as a supplement?
Is hysteresis your favorite word in the english language also?
Summary of this vid: Marco preparing for a road trip 🤷♂️
Note to self: Order full stock of referenced parts 😀
Can the output regulator be swaped for instants with a LT1084 for more juice? or is even a pin to pin compatible regulator? Or is it better just to parallel another l7812 for simplicity sakes :)
Why not use a radioisotope ovenized zener
Did everyone see the stadium crawd from University of Arizona? If product placement?
It's Repsin' time
I see another invertor charging a battery, why do DC2DC charging circuits get so rare. I see them only for car batteries. I spent time searching for something to charge my bike batteries without the need to carry a full charger and using inverters on the Stationary power stations.
What CAD are you using? I'm only aware of Eeagle, at its kinda pain to use imo.
It is KiCAD
purple is slower but it's a lot prettier than green, I bought purple PCBs from them for my keyboard
Then JBC won 👍🏻😌
Sehr geil :)
Hey, what program do you use for schematic design, and do you know of a half decent free program that can be used to create gerber files? Great video as always, props from a Canadian electrical student :D
That is KiCAD. It is a fully decent free program.
Okay... "Goblin mode" is now officially in my vocabulary 😂😂
Btw, ever heard of sandwich mode ? It's around noon....
something tells me that if the chips do not warm each other, then the charging current can be further increased
2:47 You're either so good that you know exactly how wide each component is or you recorded yourself deleting every part and played it backwards for the presentation.
I'm on to you with your movie magic wizardry.
I highly doubt even the best of the best designers make no mistakes that require deletion or reposition. This seems like an automated replay/redraw of an already designed shematic.
Wtf, this video didn't show up in my subscriptions?
Yeah but why do LCSC not also handle all the taxes and stuff? They’re the same company last I checked.
Nice, now implement the godly WTF001 somewhere, no ppms without a hybrid IC!
I wonder if big PCB assembly services will accept that one Czech shop as a valid parts source
@@reps Yep, that's a big oof right there.
Es un genio...
4000 hours? Didn't you forget some parenthesis there? 28Wh / (0.084A x 12V) should be less than 28 hours, very long, but not unreasonable, if you don't need to transport it very frequently.
the reference module wants at least a watt too
@@reps Yes, as you wrote two lines above, 184mA total, subtract 100mA for the module, and you have the remaining 84mA that you used to calculate, so there is no need to worry about the 1W for the module since it's already taken care of, at least according to your calculations 😉
ah yes, marcorepsium
Anyone know of any US based pcb manufacturers so my shipping costs aren’t astronomical?
Mmm, electronic popcorn.
wow, never seen parts jump like this .. why didn't you play popcorn (jean michel jarre) .. the muppet version with the chef ! :D
It protecccc, but it also atacc, but most importantly......it disconneccccc
I kinda hate his schematic timelapse. he just records himself deleting the schematic then reverses the video. but it does look good and takes way less time
I would say it takes more time to first design it and then record deleting everything. What he is doing is instead saving time of his viewers (while making it look pleasingly effortless).
@@ristomatti What i hate is making it look effortless part. Doing that takes a lots of time an a tremendous amount of research. I just feel like it does not show how difficult that process is. Does look good to the audience tho.
@@Ender_Wiggin I'm with you on that. I'm still stuck in the occasional THT protoboard phase with my hobby. The topics covered seem to be on a completely different level, so it feels natural for me to skip the gory details of the actual work. It will likely also attract a much wider audience keeping the videos short. :)
I think it's time to look into low-power references that can be powered off a 9V battery...
Ah the good old days, when TL494 ruled the world...
The metrology meeting is in Stuttgart on the 27th of August, also why does youtube keep deleting my comments