After installing the big three on three older vehicles (1998 Nissan maxima, 2003 ford expedition, 2003 Chevy Tahoe) I can confidently say the only NOTICEABLE difference is the engine crank speed. The starter cranks the engine more efficiently, so if your vehicle has a slow crank speed and you’ve already factored out a faulty starter, battery, etc. the big three is an inexpensive and potential solution.
Most people do the big 3 for stereo systems drawing massive amounts of current and those stock wires make amps work for their power like sucking a golf ball through a straw but there are many benefits to a upgraded electrical system including better fuel economy, longer battery life, longer life of all electronics in the vehicle and brighter lights inside and out. I suggest a 200 amp alternator with the big 3 then you will see a real difference!
If you do that keep in mind the wire on most good cars going to the starter is welding grade pure copper wire so if you upgrade it make sure it's an actual upgrade not that garbage tinfoil wire that's like only 10% copper.
That won't have anything to do with the audio system or any RV/Camper uses though, since it's only used when starting the engine. The big 3 wires are in constant use.
A high output alternator and big 3 were necessary after adding a 1K amp and plans for a 6-channel. Also, I live where summers are scorching and winters are freezing. Maybe added fuel efficiency be a coincidence?
NOPE, I ran a single 1,200W amp an 4x90W amp and had the stock 135A alt and 0 issues, now if ya running say a Geo Metro then yes, but most alternators that are over 130A can run a good 1500W stereo system no issues.
@@brandonmurray4895 You do it to whatever battery you have under the hood. I had an AGM undet the hood but it died so now theres a wet cell battery in there for now on the same big 3 as before
Do the big 3, get a high-output alrernator, get a high capacity battery, and if you have enough room then get a high-output fan. Changing the wires alone won't do much of anything. Also, if you aren't running a large car audio system then there is no need to do any of this.
@@ironwolf_6559 Just getting a high output alternator should do the trick, or just doing the big 3. Whichever fits your budget better. If your stock alternator is 100 amps, then all of the electronics in your entire car, including the stereo and headlights, can pull up to 1000 watts. Generally 10 watts per 1 amp. Factory car manuals should be able to tell you how many watts each of your electrical components pull, or web search it. Subtract the total from how many watts your alternator can produce, and that tells you how many watts you have left for your subwoofer amp. Then get a subwoofer with an RMS that is under that number, and put it in a box that meets specs for that sub. Want a bigger sub or more subs? Then you need a bigger amp, which means you need a big 3, or bigger battery, or bigger alternator, or more batteries, or more alternators, or a lithium bank. Things get complicated and expensive.
I just upgraded to a 4,500 watt system that at 1 ohm can push over 5k stable. All of this is currently being ran by stock electrical. Is this new system worthy of a big 3 upgrade WITH a high output alternator/high capacity battery? Or would I be okay staying stock?
@@calinsteele Most stock alternators aren't going to be 450 Amps. Even if it was, you need enough to push your car electrical system plus your stereo. And you're trying to push everything with almost no resistance. New alternator plus big 3, but you're also going to need a battery or that 1 ohm is going go keep the alternator from ever charging it.
Thank you, I do need it, because i have a music system in the trunk. It is important to keep a solid current. but thank you for your video it definitely helped me out.
To further clarify, there is one more limiting factor to how much current can a wire supply - its thermal limitations. Both a long and moderately short cable - for a given cross section - will have the same thermal capacity. If you send 20A through a 1.5mm2 cable, then - regardless of its lenght - it generates the same amount of heat per centimeter. As a result, it might or might not burn/melt the insulation.
Yes you need it When the car is old, positive and ground cables become weak. Most Noticable even when you clean all connections and everything and still have the same issues. So when chenge old wire better to upgrade.
Not gonna lie I cross my fingers for my polo, I have a 110a alternator as stock and think it will be ok for 55x4 + 80x2 and a 500w sub but who knows, still waiting the 500w one for the sub so yeah... Will see, will see !
220w + 160w + 500w is 880w (MAX I am assuming). 880w / 14.4v is 61.1 Amps, 880w / 13.8v is 63.7 Amps, and 880w / 12v is 73.3 Amps. Not all companies rate their equipment the same. Many use the CES rating, some use a RMS, and usually your cheap stuff uses Max ratings (Examples would be Crunch, Boss, and Pyramid). There is nothing "wrong" with cheap equipment it is just lying to you about the power output and the quality is a lot lower. Example is a cheap amp claiming 2000 watts when it's really like 210 watts.
@@TheLionAndTheLamb777 thanks man, yeah it's one focal amp (impulse 320.4), and two esx ones (qm500.4 and qm500.1 mono). Seems ok, not too cheap, but far from high end of course. All of em are class D also, it helps. I read esx stuff is great for the price.
I'm on my stock system running an 800 watt amp 1D from skar audio and a single 10 in sdr in 08 civic lx coupe everything seems fine but will do my big 3 just incase
Yea, you didn't need an upgrade at all here. Factory 2ga is plenty, most Big 3 upgrades aren't even that big. If you're an SPL guy with monster amps, then you know what you need and this doesn't apply to you. I'm thinking of doing this for a small stereo upgrade, and also RV/Camper use, so I can run power to the truck bed in the back and charge a secondary battery. Just want to get the best out of the alternator I already have.
What I dont understand about all these BIG # Upgrades is that they use heavy gauge wire but the terminal ends power throughput actually bottlenecks where they bolt on to the surface of wherever. Calculating the actual surface to surface is much less than the heavy gauge wire. Thats likely why they are made prefab in 2 and 4 ga
I have old 2006 megane with 1.4 engine. I belive alternator is 110a. I recently installed sony dsx-gs80 connected to factory harness . I have voltage drops as low as 12.5 while driving when bass kicks in ,so lights are dimming. Also,when i open the front window lights are dimming . Will big 3 help in this case? Or should i just check the ground connections?
@@RAW-CAt which size will be sufficient for my car? I dont plan massive powers,sony puts out 45w rms per channel,i have sub connected to it directly,so roughly 180w rms atm. Will 4awg be enough to add to current wiring?. In the future i want to add 500w rms monoblock to power my current pioneer sub
If u have over 10k watts u should do this with a high output alternator, I use welding cable which is 600 volts, so 12 volts ain’t going to tickle the wire so everything’s smooth, plus I have 5 batteries. I used 1 way welding cable.
For the big 3 can I connect the positive from the alternator straight to the battery positive or to the fuse box first? I have a 2017 Honda Accord. Thank you.
Actually it depends is a good way to put it!! I have a 900 watt SQ system. Although I have a 5.0 V8 2019 mustang GT! 200A alternator, big 3, and AGM primary battery. Works fine for SQ, but I have heated/cooled seats, those take a big draw( exactly why 200A factory alternator).I use 1/2 of amperage draw roughly occasionally when everything is on besides stereo. If I go any bigger, for safety, I will go to 300A or 350A alternator ( on back order for my mustang currently). I do feel your car, if drawing that many Amps for stereo, you are pushing your alternator a little to much!!! You are pulling way to much amperage from your alternator than it was designed for! Going off 175amp fusing to stereo! I realize music is dynamic, but in that case your stereo fuse is way too big!!! My Mosconi amps will pull max 100amps, I have a 125 amp fuse. It seems from just a first look you are overriding your alternator? Wiring won’t make any difference if that’s the case!! On a cold day using the heater, your car can use up to 1/2 its amperage!!
@@TheRealTMaze do you have heated seats? If so, turn them on with your heater, and use a multi meter. It will surprise you the amp draw. I didn’t think about it much until I did it! I also don’t play my system very much without the car on. Hey man, if your lights don’t dim, you’re fine!!! Easiest way to see if the amp draw is too much!!
But wouldn’t it benefit me because i added modifitications to my car. I added led lights to my car including aftermarket lights.I have a Honda civic 2020. Any advice.
@@RAW-CAt ok thanks so what gauge should I go for ? I want to add Interior lighting so I am assuming it’s going to consume more power. Should I do 0 gauge or 3 gauge?
How is it that you don’t know the reason for doing the big 3 upgrade? If you have an aftermarket sound system, you definitely need it, forget your 2 gauge, I added zero gauge.
@@ULSB1969 it depends how much current your alternator can output and how powerful your system is 🤷 there is 0 reason to have 0 gauge for 100A alternator.
@@RAW-CAt you are clueless, I mentioned an aftermarket sound system, which I have. 1.5k watts amp for the subs and 800watts for the mids and highs, along with a DSP and an Epicenter. What part of this equipment is not a reason to have 0 gauge big three along side of the stock power wires? You definitely don’t know your math!
@@ULSB1969 well based on those number you might be drawing 150A max with that setup. And that is on a burp, not on music. Playing music on max volume you might draw ~100A of current, on more average listening levels that will be ~50A. So yeah, a 0 gauge is really unnecessary for that. My math is based on real world testing by clamping amps and measuring the actual wattage. Theoretical math that you are doing is just that -theoretical. Your 800W amp for mids and highs will NEVER output 800W. 100-200W at best. Those 800W is when you load all channels on a 2ohm resistive load with a 0dB sine tone. Not when playing music on speakers.
Different cars with different setups, it's going to be different by a little for all of us guys .but yes it's all basically the same 😂isn't this fun and funny altogether
I done “big 5” with 0g ofc chameleon owersised cable : 1-alt to batt + 2-batt to chasis 3-alt to chasis 4- each side engine block to chasis I have to say - it increases ~.3, .4volts when engine is on. Originaly was 14.4-14.6v - now 14.8-15.0v Engine starts, central lock, windows and most electricals reacts quicker. The main reason to upgrade was for my sq setup (~4000rms, but probably max i’m using less than half), and again when engine is on - it holds a bit better of voltage drops, when playing loud bass tracks. It adds some benefits for my case My alt is stock 180a., 3l v6 diesel
not sure - the cable looks quite thick (~35mm), but the shield itself looks thick too. You mentioned that your Insignia 35mm too - are you sure ? If true, than surprisingly thick oem wiring.
Beginning in 2018 or even earlier they started to use Battery Management Systems oder "intelligent alternators". On my SEAT 1.0 KJ / 6F for example you get the 14,4V only when it´s very cold outside or you do recuperate. Most of the time there is no charging into the battery, and it does not change when I put on my >3000 Watt Car Audio. So i often drop down to 11V. It´s a mess. All done because of saving the climate, and to get lower consumption. A joke. So on these modern cars you also don´t need the BIG3 because no current is coming from the alternator. If I pull out the connector of the Battery Management System (directly on the minus of the battery) I get 13,3V. But thats also not full power of the alternator. Did not find any solution, no manufacturer, no workshop can help to solve this problem. And I think most people dont know this too.
Make your own charging circuit with a voltage regulator connect that to your alternator and leave the stock ecu battery management system unplugged...u will get your 14.5 constantly by doing this
Is that like ,,, adding another positive wire from battery 2 alternator Post another wire from negative Battery Terminal 2 engine block add another wire from alternator bracket to body frame
After installing the big three on three older vehicles (1998 Nissan maxima, 2003 ford expedition, 2003 Chevy Tahoe) I can confidently say the only NOTICEABLE difference is the engine crank speed. The starter cranks the engine more efficiently, so if your vehicle has a slow crank speed and you’ve already factored out a faulty starter, battery, etc. the big three is an inexpensive and potential solution.
That is so true. Even a 0.1 ohm difference in main cables will have a massive impact on starter engine power.
If your vehicle has a slow crank speed it just needs a new ground cable.
Most people do the big 3 for stereo systems drawing massive amounts of current and those stock wires make amps work for their power like sucking a golf ball through a straw but there are many benefits to a upgraded electrical system including better fuel economy, longer battery life, longer life of all electronics in the vehicle and brighter lights inside and out. I suggest a 200 amp alternator with the big 3 then you will see a real difference!
Yup I need it!
220 amp alternator, electric fans, electric water pump, big stereo old car: 1972 240z
They should actually make it a big four and add a better thicker wire to run to the starter. That's what I always thought.
If you do that keep in mind the wire on most good cars going to the starter is welding grade pure copper wire so if you upgrade it make sure it's an actual upgrade not that garbage tinfoil wire that's like only 10% copper.
That won't have anything to do with the audio system or any RV/Camper uses though, since it's only used when starting the engine. The big 3 wires are in constant use.
A high output alternator and big 3 were necessary after adding a 1K amp and plans for a 6-channel. Also, I live where summers are scorching and winters are freezing. Maybe added fuel efficiency be a coincidence?
NOPE, I ran a single 1,200W amp an 4x90W amp and had the stock 135A alt and 0 issues, now if ya running say a Geo Metro then yes, but most alternators that are over 130A can run a good 1500W stereo system no issues.
320a alternator and 2 batteries. Yeah it was needed in my instance
Did you do the big three on the car battery or audio battery 🔋?
@@brandonmurray4895 You do it to whatever battery you have under the hood. I had an AGM undet the hood but it died so now theres a wet cell battery in there for now on the same big 3 as before
Do the big 3, get a high-output alrernator, get a high capacity battery, and if you have enough room then get a high-output fan. Changing the wires alone won't do much of anything. Also, if you aren't running a large car audio system then there is no need to do any of this.
how large is too large? wanting to run two speakers and a 8 inch sub with amp but wanted to do this upgrade first replacing alternator and battery
@@ironwolf_6559 Just getting a high output alternator should do the trick, or just doing the big 3. Whichever fits your budget better. If your stock alternator is 100 amps, then all of the electronics in your entire car, including the stereo and headlights, can pull up to 1000 watts. Generally 10 watts per 1 amp. Factory car manuals should be able to tell you how many watts each of your electrical components pull, or web search it. Subtract the total from how many watts your alternator can produce, and that tells you how many watts you have left for your subwoofer amp. Then get a subwoofer with an RMS that is under that number, and put it in a box that meets specs for that sub. Want a bigger sub or more subs? Then you need a bigger amp, which means you need a big 3, or bigger battery, or bigger alternator, or more batteries, or more alternators, or a lithium bank. Things get complicated and expensive.
I just upgraded to a 4,500 watt system that at 1 ohm can push over 5k stable. All of this is currently being ran by stock electrical. Is this new system worthy of a big 3 upgrade WITH a high output alternator/high capacity battery? Or would I be okay staying stock?
@@calinsteele Most stock alternators aren't going to be 450 Amps. Even if it was, you need enough to push your car electrical system plus your stereo. And you're trying to push everything with almost no resistance. New alternator plus big 3, but you're also going to need a battery or that 1 ohm is going go keep the alternator from ever charging it.
Thank you,
I do need it, because i have a music system in the trunk. It is important to keep a solid current.
but thank you for your video it definitely helped me out.
To further clarify, there is one more limiting factor to how much current can a wire supply - its thermal limitations. Both a long and moderately short cable - for a given cross section - will have the same thermal capacity. If you send 20A through a 1.5mm2 cable, then - regardless of its lenght - it generates the same amount of heat per centimeter. As a result, it might or might not burn/melt the insulation.
Yes you need it
When the car is old, positive and ground cables become weak. Most Noticable even when you clean all connections and everything and still have the same issues. So when chenge old wire better to upgrade.
Not gonna lie I cross my fingers for my polo, I have a 110a alternator as stock and think it will be ok for 55x4 + 80x2 and a 500w sub but who knows, still waiting the 500w one for the sub so yeah... Will see, will see !
220w + 160w + 500w is 880w (MAX I am assuming). 880w / 14.4v is 61.1 Amps, 880w / 13.8v is 63.7 Amps, and 880w / 12v is 73.3 Amps. Not all companies rate their equipment the same. Many use the CES rating, some use a RMS, and usually your cheap stuff uses Max ratings (Examples would be Crunch, Boss, and Pyramid). There is nothing "wrong" with cheap equipment it is just lying to you about the power output and the quality is a lot lower. Example is a cheap amp claiming 2000 watts when it's really like 210 watts.
@@TheLionAndTheLamb777 thanks man, yeah it's one focal amp (impulse 320.4), and two esx ones (qm500.4 and qm500.1 mono). Seems ok, not too cheap, but far from high end of course. All of em are class D also, it helps. I read esx stuff is great for the price.
Just to say that it’s been ok with my alternator, no problem.
I'm on my stock system running an 800 watt amp 1D from skar audio and a single 10 in sdr in 08 civic lx coupe everything seems fine but will do my big 3 just incase
@@TheLionAndTheLamb777dude, in the calculation u forget the efficiency. So u have to divide the current by with class AB ~0,5 and with class D ~0,8
I only did the ground ,i have a 1800 wats installation,but i have a second battery
I’m b currently running a big 1 with my setup ive got no complains nor have i ever recovered any complaints 😉
Yea, you didn't need an upgrade at all here. Factory 2ga is plenty, most Big 3 upgrades aren't even that big. If you're an SPL guy with monster amps, then you know what you need and this doesn't apply to you. I'm thinking of doing this for a small stereo upgrade, and also RV/Camper use, so I can run power to the truck bed in the back and charge a secondary battery. Just want to get the best out of the alternator I already have.
What I dont understand about all these BIG # Upgrades is that they use heavy gauge wire but the terminal ends power throughput actually bottlenecks where they bolt on to the surface of wherever. Calculating the actual surface to surface is much less than the heavy gauge wire. Thats likely why they are made prefab in 2 and 4 ga
Marine grade terminals around here and heavy duty marine grade shrink wrap
upgrading "adding to" these wires is never a bad idea. wether you have aditional draw or not. cheap and easy upgrade for any car electrical system
I have old 2006 megane with 1.4 engine. I belive alternator is 110a. I recently installed sony dsx-gs80 connected to factory harness . I have voltage drops as low as 12.5 while driving when bass kicks in ,so lights are dimming. Also,when i open the front window lights are dimming . Will big 3 help in this case? Or should i just check the ground connections?
Yeah, I would definitely do the big 3.
@@RAW-CAt which size will be sufficient for my car? I dont plan massive powers,sony puts out 45w rms per channel,i have sub connected to it directly,so roughly 180w rms atm. Will 4awg be enough to add to current wiring?. In the future i want to add 500w rms monoblock to power my current pioneer sub
@@miki4764 gauge should be sufficient.
Thank you for the info! You sound like Avi Loeb 👍
If u have over 10k watts u should do this with a high output alternator, I use welding cable which is 600 volts, so 12 volts ain’t going to tickle the wire so everything’s smooth, plus I have 5 batteries. I used 1 way welding cable.
we have similar setups lmfao same wire and everything
For the big 3 can I connect the positive from the alternator straight to the battery positive or to the fuse box first? I have a 2017 Honda Accord. Thank you.
I would run it to the fuse.
@@RAW-CAt Do you mean run it to an inline fuse or the fuse box? Thank you for your reply.
@@sermac3246one or the other
Ur battery cable goes straight to ur alternator, do not run it to ur fuse box ull mess things up.
@@coltcooper7024 I did that but 2 months ago before your reply 😂
Actually it depends is a good way to put it!! I have a 900 watt SQ system. Although I have a 5.0 V8 2019 mustang GT! 200A alternator, big 3, and AGM primary battery. Works fine for SQ, but I have heated/cooled seats, those take a big draw( exactly why 200A factory alternator).I use 1/2 of amperage draw roughly occasionally when everything is on besides stereo. If I go any bigger, for safety, I will go to 300A or 350A alternator ( on back order for my mustang currently). I do feel your car, if drawing that many Amps for stereo, you are pushing your alternator a little to much!!! You are pulling way to much amperage from your alternator than it was designed for! Going off 175amp fusing to stereo! I realize music is dynamic, but in that case your stereo fuse is way too big!!! My Mosconi amps will pull max 100amps, I have a 125 amp fuse. It seems from just a first look you are overriding your alternator? Wiring won’t make any difference if that’s the case!! On a cold day using the heater, your car can use up to 1/2 its amperage!!
I agree with most said but Heater using half its alt amperage?? I disagree unless you have a baby alt AND sitting idle…maybe.
@@TheRealTMaze do you have heated seats? If so, turn them on with your heater, and use a multi meter. It will surprise you the amp draw. I didn’t think about it much until I did it! I also don’t play my system very much without the car on. Hey man, if your lights don’t dim, you’re fine!!! Easiest way to see if the amp draw is too much!!
@1:52 2 x 35sqmm does not equal 75sqmm, just FYI.
But wouldn’t it benefit me because i added modifitications to my car. I added led lights to my car including aftermarket lights.I have a Honda civic 2020. Any advice.
It won't hurt for sure - go for it😉
@@RAW-CAt ok thanks so what gauge should I go for ? I want to add Interior lighting so I am assuming it’s going to consume more power. Should I do 0 gauge or 3 gauge?
Does doubling up wires do anything? So like running two 4ga wires together vs running a single 0 or 2ga..
Nevermind 😂😂 you just covered that with your battery + lol
But does it work the same as if it was just a single wire
As long as connections are solid - yes.multiple wires act as a single one with a bigger cross section.
Are your factory wires OFC or CCA wiring? makes a difference, theoretically
I have never seen CCA factory wires in the UK🤔
I’ve always heard that OFC can handle more current and way more heat than CCA which could burn down your auto when it overheats and catches fire.
How is it that you don’t know the reason for doing the big 3 upgrade? If you have an aftermarket sound system, you definitely need it, forget your 2 gauge, I added zero gauge.
Not sure how good you math, but my two 2gauge cables are thicker than 0gauge. The reasons for needing or not needing big 3 are outlined in the video.
@ my 0 gauge is in addition to the stock cable.
@@ULSB1969 it depends how much current your alternator can output and how powerful your system is 🤷 there is 0 reason to have 0 gauge for 100A alternator.
@@RAW-CAt you are clueless, I mentioned an aftermarket sound system, which I have. 1.5k watts amp for the subs and 800watts for the mids and highs, along with a DSP and an Epicenter. What part of this equipment is not a reason to have 0 gauge big three along side of the stock power wires? You definitely don’t know your math!
@@ULSB1969 well based on those number you might be drawing 150A max with that setup. And that is on a burp, not on music. Playing music on max volume you might draw ~100A of current, on more average listening levels that will be ~50A. So yeah, a 0 gauge is really unnecessary for that. My math is based on real world testing by clamping amps and measuring the actual wattage. Theoretical math that you are doing is just that -theoretical. Your 800W amp for mids and highs will NEVER output 800W. 100-200W at best. Those 800W is when you load all channels on a 2ohm resistive load with a 0dB sine tone. Not when playing music on speakers.
Where did you get your fuse block?
AliExpress
I have a crown vic with subs I NEED THE BIG 3.🍻
Different cars with different setups, it's going to be different by a little for all of us guys .but yes it's all basically the same 😂isn't this fun and funny altogether
I done “big 5” with 0g ofc chameleon owersised cable :
1-alt to batt +
2-batt to chasis
3-alt to chasis
4- each side engine block to chasis
I have to say - it increases ~.3, .4volts when engine is on. Originaly was 14.4-14.6v - now 14.8-15.0v
Engine starts, central lock, windows and most electricals reacts quicker. The main reason to upgrade was for my sq setup (~4000rms, but probably max i’m using less than half), and again when engine is on - it holds a bit better of voltage drops, when playing loud bass tracks.
It adds some benefits for my case
My alt is stock 180a., 3l v6 diesel
What is the factory wiring on the Amarok. With an alternator that big I imagine at least 35mm?
not sure - the cable looks quite thick (~35mm), but the shield itself looks thick too.
You mentioned that your Insignia 35mm too - are you sure ? If true, than surprisingly thick oem wiring.
@@laimonaskebla4834 yeah, I had to cut some wires and indeed it was 35mm2.
@@laimonaskebla4834yeah I agree 2awg factory wiring is crazy. Most cars run 4 awg max a lot I’ve seen run only 6awg and even as low as 8 awg
Big three makes u save gas?
No it doesnt.
Beginning in 2018 or even earlier they started to use Battery Management Systems oder "intelligent alternators". On my SEAT 1.0 KJ / 6F for example you get the 14,4V only when it´s very cold outside or you do recuperate. Most of the time there is no charging into the battery, and it does not change when I put on my >3000 Watt Car Audio. So i often drop down to 11V. It´s a mess. All done because of saving the climate, and to get lower consumption. A joke. So on these modern cars you also don´t need the BIG3 because no current is coming from the alternator. If I pull out the connector of the Battery Management System (directly on the minus of the battery) I get 13,3V. But thats also not full power of the alternator. Did not find any solution, no manufacturer, no workshop can help to solve this problem. And I think most people dont know this too.
Make your own charging circuit with a voltage regulator connect that to your alternator and leave the stock ecu battery management system unplugged...u will get your 14.5 constantly by doing this
So what happens if you don't have a big 3 or extra batteries? I have a 6000w nemesis and 1 skar 15. Can I run that with stock everything?
Without upgraded electrical.you will have massive voltage drop, that will cause increased current draw and can potentially damage something.
YOU are going to FRY ya electrical system to the point melting it is going to happen!~
The reason you do not want a Big3 is because you need the Big4.
Anytime you increase the amperage of your alternator, you need to increase the wire sizes 🤷 common sense
Is that like ,,, adding another positive wire from battery 2 alternator Post another wire from negative Battery Terminal 2 engine block add another wire from alternator bracket to body frame
@@markkouros6628 I prefer alternator case away from the positive out of alternator. Not rocket science, just good 👍 thinking 🤔
Cruzes are the equivalent to the shit stuck in the tread of my shoe dont matter what engine
same with the sonic
But the other expert guy say you always need it lol
You better watch the whole video, as it looks like you commented only looking at the thumbnail.
So you are a 'big 2' kinda guy 😂
if a car is older than 15 yrs old you do this so
Why.......
Why what?
Yeah. Why what. ? 😂