Thank you for finally making a video addressing humidity and print drying. My basement in the East Bay of California stays a fairly constant 74-76 degrees F and 40-44% Hg.
If you go for a food dehydrator, there's no need to cut up the meshes and stuff. Just put a plastic bucket upside down over your stack of spools. Edit: Drill some ventilation holes in the bottom of the bucket first.
I think there's a very solid point to be made about strength of parts as you said.. that stringing.. and especially those blobs.. that's all filament that didn't make it into the print, so now it's likely voids of air. A precision scale might even be able to tell the difference, once the whiskers and blobs are manually removed?
@@ChrisRiley I like yours though! My dehydrator did the job. Found out the my thermometer was bad though, and ruined multiple rolls of PETG hahaha. As long as the temp is consistent
I'm on the West coast of Ireland and it's absolutely necessary to dry before printing. Especially PETG. In the summer the humidity is over 80%, leave the spool out overnight and then the printer sounds like a popcorn machine.. Much easier in the winter as the filament sharing the hot press but then my wife starts making noise... Last year I've built a drybox from 20L container, el-cheapo 200x200mm PCB heater, RAMPS running custom Marlin so I can control and monitor temperature and a circulating fan inside. The problem is the noise from the power supply but works OK.
@@ChrisRiley No worries Chris. I'll drop you an email with the details. It's nothing fancy, it can be assembled with most of the parts we have in our spares box, even if you have an old unused printer.
Thank You Chris. My humidity avg in my basement hovers around 50%. I have a dehumidifier running 24/7 and it set to 40-45%. Summer time when ac is on I may have to dump it once in morning and again early evening. It amazes me how much moisture it pulls from the air. I have a single roll Sunlu currently drying a roll of pteg. I want to thank you for what you do. Coming to riprap or what ever called now this year?
Chris, how goes your FT-6 project? Time for an update ? As to filament drying, both at home and at work (I manage our small scale 3D print lab), I dry before use and refer to the Safety & Technical Data sheets most filament makers offer. Storage is also important. I love the plastic cereal containers with desiccant packets. My shop has a hot water heat pump now and that's driving the humidity level pretty low.
Sometime I learned a long time ago in my chemistry hobby: calcium chloride is a far better dessicant than silica gel. Silica gel is ok for absorbing moisture to prevent it from getting into the filament in storage but calcium chloride will actively pull the moisture out over time. I've dried spools by putting them in a 2 gallon bucket with a CaCl dryer from the dollar store, popped on the lid and just left them. The bucket is air tight and the dessicant pulled out enough moisture from the filament to solidify the prills into a solid block... and this was all at cool temps (18°C).
Thanks for this one! My advice: Setup homeassistant, get an ESP32 or something and an AHT20 or some temperature and humidity sensor you can trust somehow (the DHT11 isn't one of them) and install ESPHome on the device, add it to homeassistant and you're in business - doesn't cost a lot ;) Btw, sending the humid air into the ventilation directly, might help a lot to keep your room dry. Short question to Chris, I've read that styrene-based filament like ABS and ASA are mostly hydrophobic. Do you beleive that's true? I know they don't need a lot of drying. Also - some types of TPU like NinjaTek is even sold without a plastic bag and is supposed to be hydrophobic. Do you know anything about this? Oh - and btw, the mix of fahrenheit and celcius there was utterly confusing. I'm Norwegian, so I don't know Fahrenheit by heart. If you could stick to one of them or better, use both, it'd simply things a lot! Thanks roy
Thanks Roy, Yeah, I totally messed up on the C to F, I was even getting confused. Good ideas on the sensor setup you have. With ABS, I've never really seen the needs to dry it. With ASA, it seems to depend on the brand. Prusament ASA seems to like to be dried. TPU seems to need some drying, again, depending on the brand. TPE on the other hand shouldn't need drying, so I experiment a lot to see what works.
Many years of 3d printing here. I dry my filaments before and after each print. They are always sealed in a food saver bag with a pack of desiccant. For long prints I might use a hot box for the filament. One of the best pieces of advice.
It surely does make a difference. My basic midwest basement gets some pretty wet air in the spring so it's an issue and I've definitely noticed how old filament prints just like you showed. Even with dry boxes costing just one or two rolls of good filament, I went cheap and just use my heated bed. I cut the side off of a cardboard filament box, poked some air holes in the other side, and just lay it on the bed at 60C for 6 hours. I use the idle timeout in Klipper as a timer, lol ( run this in the console: SET_IDLE_TIMEOUT TIMEOUT=21600 ). I should write a macro for it, actually.
I bought a set of 6 cereal boxes on Amazon and added a filament roller and silica box. Also ordered the MMU3.👍🏻 Try running the MMU without a filament buffer. I have also printed parts for my boxes to prevent the filament from getting tangled when it is pulled back. By the way, a few MMU3 for the MK4 have been shipped this week. Full production is due to start next week.
Look at home assistant, i use zigbee sensors to monitor the room and the storage boxes. Theres an addon called absolute humidity because humidity changes with the temp.
I recently got into 3d printing, not having a way to dry my filament for some time, and recently bought the sunlu s2 dryer. I can't say enough how much drying the filament improved quality. I thought it would be fine since the filament is shipped airtight in a vacuum. Oh boy was I wrong. I could swear that I even had warping because of wet filament. I print in PLA and since I dried it even my warping issues were gone. Could it be that wet filament also causes warping? I didn't read about that when troubleshooting.
Atomic Filament recommended NOT using a dehydrator on their CF PETG/Nylon etc. They suggested using 'rechargeable' drying beads in a sealed container to properly take the moisture out. It does come fully dry however. p.s. I still use a dehydrator on it lol. I LOVE their CF PETG. Incredible stuff.
I too print in the basement and I keep my filament down there also. I try to keep them in vacuum bags with desiccant. Not only to prevent moisture but also dust.
Thanks Chris! I do have a question. I know one can dry filament at lower temps for longer durations, but are there known negative consequences to the filament from leaving it in the dryer for longer periods of time? (Days?) Appreciate your vids!
Personally as long as the temps are conservative, most dryers you see probably won't hurt the filament drying it for long periods of time. Most dryer say 36 hours max in one setting. I don't think there is much risk, but I've never really tried it.
Chris, good suggestions and tips on drying. You should do a follow up on storing it after drying. I have used dry boxes and seal able bags with desiccant inside. I purchased a food saver for long term storage of PETG and TPU, after sealing I put them in a large drybox tub that has gaskets.
Hi Chris,I need your HELP.I have a part that I want to print in PLA+ but I can't get it to lay flat on the bed.The part is a flat part but when I load the STL file the parts in mid air.I'm using the cura program that came with my Anycubic Mega S 3D printer and I've tried 6 times and I still can't get it to lay flat.Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Not sure how to do this in Cura, but Prusa slicer has a lay flat function, if you still need help you can send me the file and I will slice it for you.
I can atest to drying PETG. I would print this spool of PETG and it litterly sounded like a bowl of rice crispys, bubbles in the filament, and tons of stringing. After I dried it in a toaster oven for a bit, it worked great. BTW, don't use a toaster oven as the center of the filament will get too hot and melt together. Trust me on this. If you keep your eye on Amazon warehouse, you can find food dehydrator cheap.
I leave my PLA out for months. Leaving it in the dryer actually made prints worse. PETG, I usually dry it while I am printing. Nylon I had to buy a new filament dryer that could do 70C
I was experimenting with TPU. I think I did 50 and it wasn't a great print. So I tried 55. (or was it 60/65 I don't recall for sure). anyway......... just the extra 5 degrees made a huge difference. It changed crappy print into spectactular print.
Adam Savage uses a small front opening filing cabinet with clear front, and put a small room size air dehumidifier in it, and that could dry and store many rolls in it. Of course Adam went over the top, but still good idea for an enclosed cabinet for a larger quantity.
I have sometimes older filament PLA left on the printer, and untouched it will snap off by the extruder. I find it is very brittle 4-5 inches and then the filament has some resistance like normal, is that moisture or something else.
@@amandahugankiss4110I think it is somehow stress being held against its "wind?" The rest of the roll sist on the ender 3 and prints fine. And as you snap off the brittle ends, you definitely get to normal flexible PLA.
Dude I found this out so late in the game. I wanted to own every color so I could print everything and man nowhere to store it. I had filament just hanging around way too long and wasn't drying it. Man oh man where was this video three to four years ago?
Walmart - search for gasket storage bin - $6-15 // Amazon - search for plug-in dehumidifier This combo keeps my filament in a 19-20% RH environment in WA state. Plug-in the dehumidifer for 12 hours once a month. Eventually the beads that change color to tell you it's dried out start to fail, however these units still work fine if you dry out once a month. Going on four year's use and still effective. I keep my filament in this environment once opened. Never had to put my stuff in a food dehydrator yet.
According to my sunlu s4 with the door open and it not having ran for a day, the humidity was 75%......this was during the coldest parts of the winter. I even had the heat on. I wasn't expecting that. We have crazy humidity
Hi Chris Nice vidéo but I am surprised that you are not talking about dessicant and sealed bags ! No need actualy to own a drybox. Thé basic procedure is to track the weight of the dessicant bags. Also a comment regarding your measurements in the video. You measure the air in fact and not the filament itself !
Thank you for your insight! We did a filament drying video a few years ago where we did weigh the filament: th-cam.com/video/YbtFo_n0JLo/w-d-xo.html This is video is geared more towards troubleshooting bad prints not necessarily filament storage. There are so many other we could discuss.
I'm making a DIY filament drier with a free PTC I found and designed my own PCB for it :O now i'm even more excited to get it! just waiting for april to get my moneys!
Funny enough, using the wettest filament seems to be especially popular among TH-camrs. Whenever they show a timelapse of their parts they often have literal chunks of stringing landing on the build plate.
Don't you know: filming is very stressful. The filament gets anxious, starts to sweat, absorbs it's own sweat, and gets damp. Better TH-camrs give their filament some CBD before filming. Yes, it's expensive, but if you care about your filament, you want to make its last moments as peaceful as possible.
But I like my prints fluffy and huggable! Man... I was wondering why is my diy printer doing all the blobbing and stringing, now it might turn out that printer is fine and my spools have a drinking problem. If it turns out to be true I'll buy you a beer.
lol I usually dry unless it's a test print. And freqently I do that anyway. I have 3x sovol dual slots, a dual slot fix dry, and now 2x sunlu s4 (I did the kickstarter and got 2 for the price of 1). Dryers are how I manage filament when printing in the MMU (which prusa said is finally shipping mk4 versions this week!!!)
@@ChrisRiley lol I bought the 3x sovols because I wanted to use them with the mmu2. But I was never all that impressed. limited to 50c (40 is plenty for PLA, but 50 isn't good enough for other materials) and 12 hours on the timer. So then I got the fix dry. I found that if I used the fix dry as the exoctic material dryer, I could get just about anything working well. Then I saw the kickstarter for the sunlu s4. I got 2 for the price of 1. Sounded perfect. I haven't opened the 2nd one yet. I will when the MMU3 for mk4 ships.
Thanks for the 15 second video, Chris. See ya next time! =P
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for finally making a video addressing humidity and print drying. My basement in the East Bay of California stays a fairly constant 74-76 degrees F and 40-44% Hg.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks!
Thank you!
If you go for a food dehydrator, there's no need to cut up the meshes and stuff.
Just put a plastic bucket upside down over your stack of spools.
Edit: Drill some ventilation holes in the bottom of the bucket first.
Cool, thanks for the tip!
Great idea. You may want to consider adding a vent at the top of the bucket. You need to let the water vapor out.
Yeah. I use one we used to grow potatoes in, so it’s got drainage holes drilled in the bottom.
I think there's a very solid point to be made about strength of parts as you said.. that stringing.. and especially those blobs.. that's all filament that didn't make it into the print, so now it's likely voids of air. A precision scale might even be able to tell the difference, once the whiskers and blobs are manually removed?
Indeed, I have played with weighing objects over the years trying to predict it. I need to find a super accurate scale that's somewhat affordable.
This is so true. Dry filament makes stronger prints too and avoid nozzles getting gunked up and dropping burnt blobs
💯
Completely agreed about drying. I don't recommend the dehydrators. The temps fluctuate WAAAY to much, they're annoying. Get a nice dryer
Nice! I need to look around and see what the options are for dryers lately.
@@ChrisRiley I like yours though! My dehydrator did the job. Found out the my thermometer was bad though, and ruined multiple rolls of PETG hahaha. As long as the temp is consistent
Nice one Chris. The TL;DW at the start was funny as. I hadn't considered that the moisture 'has to go somewhere'. Cheers, JAYTEE
Thanks! It's not first on my list when I'm troubleshooting either.
I'm on the West coast of Ireland and it's absolutely necessary to dry before printing. Especially PETG. In the summer the humidity is over 80%, leave the spool out overnight and then the printer sounds like a popcorn machine.. Much easier in the winter as the filament sharing the hot press but then my wife starts making noise... Last year I've built a drybox from 20L container, el-cheapo 200x200mm PCB heater, RAMPS running custom Marlin so I can control and monitor temperature and a circulating fan inside. The problem is the noise from the power supply but works OK.
Nice dry box design. A lot of people have been asking about a dry box build video. I might have to look at some of your modes.
@@ChrisRiley No worries Chris. I'll drop you an email with the details. It's nothing fancy, it can be assembled with most of the parts we have in our spares box, even if you have an old unused printer.
Thank You Chris. My humidity avg in my basement hovers around 50%. I have a dehumidifier running 24/7 and it set to 40-45%. Summer time when ac is on I may have to dump it once in morning and again early evening. It amazes me how much moisture it pulls from the air. I have a single roll Sunlu currently drying a roll of pteg. I want to thank you for what you do. Coming to riprap or what ever called now this year?
Thank you! We do okay in the winter, but the summers in Kansas City are ridiculous humid too. So far, the plan it to go to MRRF
@@ChrisRiley will you be at the one in Bel Air Maryland at the college?
Chris, how goes your FT-6 project? Time for an update ? As to filament drying, both at home and at work (I manage our small scale 3D print lab), I dry before use and refer to the Safety & Technical Data sheets most filament makers offer. Storage is also important. I love the plastic cereal containers with desiccant packets. My shop has a hot water heat pump now and that's driving the humidity level pretty low.
I still use it once in a while. I have changed up a few parts, maybe I will do another video on it.
@@ChrisRiley I'm in the process of doing the CAD to put an acrylic enclosure around mine.
Thanks for sharing Chris, a good reminder for all of us!
Thank you!
Sometime I learned a long time ago in my chemistry hobby: calcium chloride is a far better dessicant than silica gel. Silica gel is ok for absorbing moisture to prevent it from getting into the filament in storage but calcium chloride will actively pull the moisture out over time. I've dried spools by putting them in a 2 gallon bucket with a CaCl dryer from the dollar store, popped on the lid and just left them. The bucket is air tight and the dessicant pulled out enough moisture from the filament to solidify the prills into a solid block... and this was all at cool temps (18°C).
That's very clever. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this one!
My advice: Setup homeassistant, get an ESP32 or something and an AHT20 or some temperature and humidity sensor you can trust somehow (the DHT11 isn't one of them) and install ESPHome on the device, add it to homeassistant and you're in business - doesn't cost a lot ;)
Btw, sending the humid air into the ventilation directly, might help a lot to keep your room dry.
Short question to Chris, I've read that styrene-based filament like ABS and ASA are mostly hydrophobic. Do you beleive that's true? I know they don't need a lot of drying. Also - some types of TPU like NinjaTek is even sold without a plastic bag and is supposed to be hydrophobic. Do you know anything about this?
Oh - and btw, the mix of fahrenheit and celcius there was utterly confusing. I'm Norwegian, so I don't know Fahrenheit by heart. If you could stick to one of them or better, use both, it'd simply things a lot!
Thanks
roy
Thanks Roy, Yeah, I totally messed up on the C to F, I was even getting confused. Good ideas on the sensor setup you have. With ABS, I've never really seen the needs to dry it. With ASA, it seems to depend on the brand. Prusament ASA seems to like to be dried. TPU seems to need some drying, again, depending on the brand. TPE on the other hand shouldn't need drying, so I experiment a lot to see what works.
Many years of 3d printing here. I dry my filaments before and after each print. They are always sealed in a food saver bag with a pack of desiccant. For long prints I might use a hot box for the filament.
One of the best pieces of advice.
many years here and i just dont care to if its critical ill finish it anyway
Thanks for sharing!
It surely does make a difference. My basic midwest basement gets some pretty wet air in the spring so it's an issue and I've definitely noticed how old filament prints just like you showed.
Even with dry boxes costing just one or two rolls of good filament, I went cheap and just use my heated bed. I cut the side off of a cardboard filament box, poked some air holes in the other side, and just lay it on the bed at 60C for 6 hours. I use the idle timeout in Klipper as a timer, lol ( run this in the console: SET_IDLE_TIMEOUT TIMEOUT=21600 ). I should write a macro for it, actually.
Brilliant!!!
Is it true running a little warm on the hot end can burn the water out
You can see the moisture escape with some filament, but I wouldn't suggest it. You can't be sure to get is all out.
But which drybox would you recommend? I have a day1 order of the MMU3 for the MK4 waiting for delevery, and I would like to have 5 dryboxes.
I bought a set of 6 cereal boxes on Amazon and added a filament roller and silica box.
Also ordered the MMU3.👍🏻
Try running the MMU without a filament buffer.
I have also printed parts for my boxes to prevent the filament from getting tangled when it is pulled back.
By the way, a few MMU3 for the MK4 have been shipped this week.
Full production is due to start next week.
I usually make my own, not sure which ones are out there ready made. I use this design. www.printables.com/model/205377-filament-dry-box
Look at home assistant, i use zigbee sensors to monitor the room and the storage boxes. Theres an addon called absolute humidity because humidity changes with the temp.
Thanks!
I live in the desert and it's rarely above 30% and practically never above 35% humidity here. Is that dry enough? Or should I still have a dryer?
you can use your heated bed and a box to dry filament if you need.
If the filament is in good shape when you get it, I would think that is more than dry enough.
I recently got into 3d printing, not having a way to dry my filament for some time, and recently bought the sunlu s2 dryer. I can't say enough how much drying the filament improved quality. I thought it would be fine since the filament is shipped airtight in a vacuum. Oh boy was I wrong. I could swear that I even had warping because of wet filament. I print in PLA and since I dried it even my warping issues were gone. Could it be that wet filament also causes warping? I didn't read about that when troubleshooting.
It could cause that for sure. If moisture is escaping during the first layer it could cause poor adhesion most definitely.
Atomic Filament recommended NOT using a dehydrator on their CF PETG/Nylon etc. They suggested using 'rechargeable' drying beads in a sealed container to properly take the moisture out. It does come fully dry however. p.s. I still use a dehydrator on it lol. I LOVE their CF PETG. Incredible stuff.
Awesome! Thanks for the tip!
I too print in the basement and I keep my filament down there also. I try to keep them in vacuum bags with desiccant. Not only to prevent moisture but also dust.
That's a good idea!
Thanks Chris! I do have a question. I know one can dry filament at lower temps for longer durations, but are there known negative consequences to the filament from leaving it in the dryer for longer periods of time? (Days?) Appreciate your vids!
Personally as long as the temps are conservative, most dryers you see probably won't hurt the filament drying it for long periods of time. Most dryer say 36 hours max in one setting. I don't think there is much risk, but I've never really tried it.
Chris, good suggestions and tips on drying. You should do a follow up on storing it after drying. I have used dry boxes and seal able bags with desiccant inside. I purchased a food saver for long term storage of PETG and TPU, after sealing I put them in a large drybox tub that has gaskets.
I'm looking into it now. Thanks Dave!
Hi Chris,I need your HELP.I have a part that I want to print in PLA+ but I can't get it to lay flat on the bed.The part is a flat part but when I load the STL file the parts in mid air.I'm using the cura program that came with my Anycubic Mega S 3D printer and I've tried 6 times and I still can't get it to lay flat.Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Not sure how to do this in Cura, but Prusa slicer has a lay flat function, if you still need help you can send me the file and I will slice it for you.
Esun vacuum bag kit with pump works well for keeping filament dry. I use the heated bed to dry the filament before I bag it.
Thanks, that's a good idea!
12:15 Instantly Improve Your 3D Prints (in six hours)
CLICK BAIT!!! 😂
Thanks making is video on filament drying. The one item that might have also been interesting to add was the weight before and after drying.
Thanks, check this one out!
Filament Drying - Fun Experiments - Printed Solid - Jessie PETG - 2022 - Chris's Basement
th-cam.com/video/YbtFo_n0JLo/w-d-xo.html
I can atest to drying PETG. I would print this spool of PETG and it litterly sounded like a bowl of rice crispys, bubbles in the filament, and tons of stringing. After I dried it in a toaster oven for a bit, it worked great. BTW, don't use a toaster oven as the center of the filament will get too hot and melt together. Trust me on this. If you keep your eye on Amazon warehouse, you can find food dehydrator cheap.
Thanks for the tip!!!
I leave my PLA out for months. Leaving it in the dryer actually made prints worse. PETG, I usually dry it while I am printing. Nylon I had to buy a new filament dryer that could do 70C
That's a good idea! Thanks
I was experimenting with TPU. I think I did 50 and it wasn't a great print. So I tried 55. (or was it 60/65 I don't recall for sure). anyway......... just the extra 5 degrees made a huge difference. It changed crappy print into spectactular print.
It's funny how those little changes make all the difference
@@ChrisRiley exactly!
Adam Savage uses a small front opening filing cabinet with clear front, and put a small room size air dehumidifier in it, and that could dry and store many rolls in it. Of course Adam went over the top, but still good idea for an enclosed cabinet for a larger quantity.
Adam Savage is so cool! That's a good idea!
I just did a PETG pre and post dry a week ago. What a difference it made! Edit: Now do a video on storage 😁
I'll see what I can do!
Newer printers, like the Bambu X series, have a mode that allows the printer to dry the filament as well when it's not printing.
That's handy! Thanks Bill
Fantastic, thnx! A simple, straightforward explanation, with real examples of everyday prints and issues. Brilliant.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you
I recently got the Sunlu S4 to dry my filament and I’m really liking it, BTW loving the MK3.5 upgrade on my PRUSA that you inspired me to do.
Awesome, thanks Sergio!
I have sometimes older filament PLA left on the printer, and untouched it will snap off by the extruder. I find it is very brittle 4-5 inches and then the filament has some resistance like normal, is that moisture or something else.
same here.
uv exposure perhaps?
damned annoying, whatever causes it. lol
@@amandahugankiss4110I think it is somehow stress being held against its "wind?" The rest of the roll sist on the ender 3 and prints fine. And as you snap off the brittle ends, you definitely get to normal flexible PLA.
@@FilmFactryyes... sounds reasonable. hadn't thought of that. thanks!
I have the same issue. I have been able to get the filament to be back to normal flexibility by drying.
👍🙂
Dude I found this out so late in the game. I wanted to own every color so I could print everything and man nowhere to store it. I had filament just hanging around way too long and wasn't drying it. Man oh man where was this video three to four years ago?
Thanks! Good luck with your projects
Wow ... I haven't used my 2.5 in over a year ... I do dry filament, but not in the house, because of gas output, great video as always !!!
That's good thinking!
"The mild months" in the PNW are March to November... The other months it just rains
Ugg!
Walmart - search for gasket storage bin - $6-15 // Amazon - search for plug-in dehumidifier
This combo keeps my filament in a 19-20% RH environment in WA state. Plug-in the dehumidifer for 12 hours once a month. Eventually the beads that change color to tell you it's dried out start to fail, however these units still work fine if you dry out once a month. Going on four year's use and still effective.
I keep my filament in this environment once opened. Never had to put my stuff in a food dehydrator yet.
That's a great idea! Thanks
According to my sunlu s4 with the door open and it not having ran for a day, the humidity was 75%......this was during the coldest parts of the winter. I even had the heat on. I wasn't expecting that. We have crazy humidity
Where are you?
@@ChrisRiley northern alabama. lol
Hi Chris Nice vidéo but I am surprised that you are not talking about dessicant and sealed bags ! No need actualy to own a drybox. Thé basic procedure is to track the weight of the dessicant bags. Also a comment regarding your measurements in the video. You measure the air in fact and not the filament itself !
Thank you for your insight! We did a filament drying video a few years ago where we did weigh the filament: th-cam.com/video/YbtFo_n0JLo/w-d-xo.html
This is video is geared more towards troubleshooting bad prints not necessarily filament storage. There are so many other we could discuss.
The Timelapse beat was epic
Thanks!
Might wanna pick up a filadry, you did a review a long time ago 😂
LOL!
I'm making a DIY filament drier with a free PTC I found and designed my own PCB for it :O now i'm even more excited to get it! just waiting for april to get my moneys!
Cool! Let us know how it goes!
Funny enough, using the wettest filament seems to be especially popular among TH-camrs. Whenever they show a timelapse of their parts they often have literal chunks of stringing landing on the build plate.
🙂👍
Don't you know: filming is very stressful. The filament gets anxious, starts to sweat, absorbs it's own sweat, and gets damp. Better TH-camrs give their filament some CBD before filming. Yes, it's expensive, but if you care about your filament, you want to make its last moments as peaceful as possible.
Subscribed and never regretted it since....awesome informative and clear content on every topic as always 😊👍🏻
This channel should have more subscriptions!
Awesome, thank you!
Very useful information, thank you.
Thanks, I'm happy to help!
Ok that was a good one. 10s in and bam there it is. That's it. Do it. 👍
Lol! It's just that easy!
I use a 20 dollar target toaster oven and it works perfectly
Brilliant!
PC and Nylon love their water...
👍🙂
No sure where you live, in dry places you may not need to dry filament as often or even at all, in extreme dry places
Dry in the winter and humid in the summer around here.
Instantly improve your mood - watch a Chris Riley video
I'm happy to help! Thanks for watching!
But I like my prints fluffy and huggable!
Man... I was wondering why is my diy printer doing all the blobbing and stringing, now it might turn out that printer is fine and my spools have a drinking problem. If it turns out to be true I'll buy you a beer.
Lol! You gotta keep an eye on 'em! Thanks, I hope it works!
lol I usually dry unless it's a test print. And freqently I do that anyway. I have 3x sovol dual slots, a dual slot fix dry, and now 2x sunlu s4 (I did the kickstarter and got 2 for the price of 1). Dryers are how I manage filament when printing in the MMU (which prusa said is finally shipping mk4 versions this week!!!)
With the humidity in your area, it sounds like the more dryers the better!
@@ChrisRiley lol I bought the 3x sovols because I wanted to use them with the mmu2. But I was never all that impressed. limited to 50c (40 is plenty for PLA, but 50 isn't good enough for other materials) and 12 hours on the timer. So then I got the fix dry. I found that if I used the fix dry as the exoctic material dryer, I could get just about anything working well. Then I saw the kickstarter for the sunlu s4. I got 2 for the price of 1. Sounded perfect. I haven't opened the 2nd one yet. I will when the MMU3 for mk4 ships.
That was short, video was over in 10 seconds. Could have been a Short.
You only saw 10 seconds? Did it just cut off?
@@ChrisRiley No, you said "that's it, end of video." :)
Dry your filaments. Good advice.
@@ScytheNoire LOL! 🤣
nowertalkin, comment for the algos
Thanks!