Just started watching your videos and I'm hooked already. Given me the confidence to get into the ac on my avalanche myself, and know what to do when I get into rebuilding my trans am. Redoing the whole suspension, engine rebuild, whole nine yards. Definitely going to keep up with your videos.
The struggle is real, I have not laughed so much in ages. You mirror my thoughts on spanner work, it is very relaxing and a nice break from Diagnostics but it really shows how far out of our comfort zone we are when going back to the spanners (wrenches). I've got four years on you Paul and I physically can't swing a hammer any more due to Arthritis - this profession really takes its toll on your body. Shop work is definitely a young man's game. Certainly not for us old folk on the yard. At least you have an awning when the rains comes for part II I would have been tempted to screw the nut back on the top balljoint and press on the taper stud to bring the anvil down lower, giving you more room at the top. Snap-on do a really cool flex head 1/2" ratchet the same length as a breaker bar for those sorts of jobs. Milwaukee cordless are now available in the UK and I have a dilemma whether to go with them or snap-on for a cordless ratchet. Cheers, Steve...
Wish I could go back in this video and tell myself that. Such a simple thing to do and I totally didn't even think about it. I could have then used my 2 ft breaker bar :-( Thanks Steve!
Great video! A real video about a real repair outside the modern shop. I haven't laughed that hard in a while because we all have went through this stuff. Its always frozen like its welded on.
Got my ass kicked by this one. I don't do these types of repairs much anymore as you could tell. The word on the street is, if it doesn't have a wire attached to it, I can't fix it lol
+Super032208 kind of harsh man. Just curious, can you list the "rookie" mistakes? Keep in mind, this was done in my driveway, with the intent of doing the job the way a DIYer would have to do it.
Paul Danner is NOT a rookie, come on man. I can spot a seasoned tech from a mile away(I would not invest my time in watching these videos if he was a rookie)
Hey Paul. I get a kick out of watching your videos. You are not any different then the rest of us. That is written with much respect. Keep it real Brother. Praise God!
Mr. Danner, glad to hear you like cats. My shop has a diagnostic cat which someone threw in our dumpster when she was just a kitten. She has now been living in the shop for over a year now. By the way, I'm a premium subscriber and own your book and have seen all your videos multiple times. Keep up the good work.
Lol, yes it does suck getting old. Reminds me of the old joke. "I still jump as high as I ever could, but I just can't stay up as long" . Thanks for the upload !
21:40 what is the kit called to remedy the spindle where the brake pads ride? Just did this job over the weekend and ran into the same issue. Super helpful video thanks.
Just finding these Jeep repair videos. Loving the series, thanks for taking the time to film. The last thing I would want to be thinking about is camera angles while I am beating on a rusty car part.
I say this out of love, your grinder doesn't have a safety Shield. I talk from experience(5 stitches) on my finger. someone came up behind me and grabbed my side . thought it would be funny but when he got sprayed with blood he stop laughing.
I don't think most of us care what your video's are about. We always learn something from you, even this old guy. I hate to see anyone struggle but you got the job done so far. Without air tools that job is a lot harder though. I have done many, many Jeep ball joints and once you know the capability of your tools the job goes much faster. After years of scratching my head I have a couple of tips that might help you or someone else. Cutting the ball joint stud off with a grinder or cutting torch gives you easier access to install and old socket or whatever to press the ball joint out. Placing suppoprt closer the where you're hammering will allow more of the shock to be applied to the part you are hammering on. I could see the axle vibrating when you were beating on it. Lots of hammering impact wasted there. The grooves worn into the spindle can easily be repaired by electric welding up the grooves and grinding them smooth. Been doing it that way for years without a problem. At your age,"sonny" you should be at your prime... {:-). When i was your age i was climbing all over cars and trucks like flies on dog $#it. I'm only 5'4 so i used to get under the hood with the engine to work on it. Now that i'm 66, some days i have a hard time getting out of bed from 47+ years of automotive repair torture but i shake it off and get going on the days they need me to help out at work. I'll be anxiously waiting for part II
they were stuck in there good..I just replaced my mom's Hub assembly on her 97 Chevy s10 blazer and it was easier then I thought it be..good job on it your doing a great job..
Being that you are only a kid, " here he comes to save the day " is from an old cartoon we used to watch on T.V. called Mighty Mouse. Yeah, I am getting old, but the knees are still good!
WTH!!! what happen to the tag line for scanner danner "stand back and stay clean!" Nice vid Paul. Glad to see you get back to the basics! Man it so funny to see you doing non diagnostic work!
a little to late now, but to gain more clearance for the press when doing the upper joint, you could have supported the jeep by the frame and let the suspension hang...you got it done though! ..and thunder?? when did you film this?
ACDelco suspension and driveline components are typically manufactured by Raybestos, and there are two grades available. I think ACDelco Advantage parts are the lower end ones, and I can't recall the name of the higher end line. For Raybestos, its the Service line and Professional line. :) A nifty trick I ran into recently that seems to work quite well for getting tapered joints loose, take two hammers of equal mass and smack the joint from opposing sides at the same time. It works really well!
If in doubt get a bigger hammer :-) Paul if you get some suspension & brake tools added to the tools section of the Scannerdanner.com website I am sure people on here will be interested.
great video where I work we fill the groves in with a mig welder and grind them flush the knuckles are cast steel and weld up nicely and the welds are harder than the oe knuckle keep up the work
They were stubborn little buggers. Love the safety, glasses on but no safety shield on the grinder, and no gloves. Come on Paul, practice what you preach. lol Good video again
its alot easy to do the bottom one first then turn the c clamp upside down then u can use a socket straght thro where the bottom bull joint was removed
Paul, Well done man your videos are always helpful, and I am grateful for the knowledge. I have great respect for you and the respect you show to your wife. live long man
hey Dan, what you are calling the spindle, isnt it called a steering knuckle? or at least everyone i know calls them steering knuckles, maybe just a different name for them up here in canada?
We call them steering knuckles in Texas too. I believe technically a spindle also contains the center (non-moving) part of a non-driven axle (front on RWD, rear on FWD, trailers, etc.), usually with tapered sections the bearings ride on and threads for the outer nut... or at least it did before they went to sealed bearings everywhere.
+Aarons Automotive steering knuckle, spindle...whatever :-) From Wikipedia In an automobile, the spindle is a part of the suspension system that carries the hub for the wheel and attaches to the upper and lower control arms. I probably used the wrong term for this Jeep. Steering knuckle would be probably more accurate.
On a Jeep like that (YJ, TJ, XJ, ZJ, WJ) if you forget to take the axle nut off or have trouble getting it off, it is possible to pull the hub bearing and axle shaft while they are bolted together. Another tip for removing a rusted up hub bearing on a Jeep, leave the bolts in 2-3 turns, and use your socket and an extension wedged against the axle housing, and use the power steering to push it out. Another thing you can do is put a 12 point impact socket on the head of the bolt, and hit the socket with a hammer. Doing it that way also lessens the chances of messing up a good bearing by beating on it with a hammer or a puller.
Good timing. I have a lower balljoint on a Hyundai to do. I was thinking of using my air chisel to remove it but I was worried about mushrooming it what bit should I use? Regarding air at home I use a small (and cheap) 9cfm compressor. The secret is to use 3/4 inch line without the regulator. Then you get about 5 seconds on the impact and about 20 on the air hammer, good enough for home repairs.
+Andrew Thompson first, make sure there is no snap ring. Second, use a good air chisel, if it is a weak one you will mushroom it. Third, don't use an actual chisel bit, use the hammer bit or round punch type bit. Finally, place the bit right between where the ball socket and outer housing meet. This will keep you away from the edge of the housing and will prevent the mushrooming you mentioned
I have found that a rolling head pry bar works better than a screwdriver to compress the caliper. I would find starting with the bottom first is a better route so you can use the tool upside down on the top, that would let you use a impact or ratchet on the tool
I've always just used the oversized C clamp. By the time Paul had the piston(s) about 1/2 in? I would have been done. Plus as an added bonus. You really want to drive the pistons back in with even pressure all the way around. Screw driver methods can cause the piston to tilt slightly in the bore. Just sayin' That's how I was trained and have always done it. Other peoples mileage may vary...
I love it. How its done in real life. Screw driver used for everything but whats its made for. Also the Snap On electric ratchets are awesome. I have the 3/8 and 1/4 ones.
The first ball joint you mention you said was too long and you end up returning it & end up getting right right ball joint & i was wondering if you have the right ball joint part number because i'm having the same problem.
+armando nika it's not a common rail, that much I know. Don't all diesel engines have some sort of injection pump? I'm not up on my diesel fuel controls that's for sure.
+ScannerDanner no i meant the jeep, yeah it probably has an injection pump its a bit old, maybe the 2002 and on have common rail. So you probably arent going to make any video on this kind of fuel system 😁😁
What do you mean crappy old Craftsman 1/2 inch ratchet? That is the main stay of of my tools. I know craftsman are not what they used to be but the old ones are very reliable. At least they have been for me. Oh and yeah you are just a kid. Movie quotes are cool. My wife is my best friend too. Why didn't ya put a piece of metal over the bottom of the press and then push up on the stud or a big washer and put it over the stud so they press would press against the washer and pus the stud up. Good job so far now I gotta go watch part two. I wonder if my 87 Cherokee has the same front end as yours. Ah a Pink Floyd fan. Next.
+MostlymoparIH :-) crappy because it was too short and the amount of rotation between clicks is ridiculous when you've actually used a real ratchet :-) Didn't have a cheater pipe to fit. Awesome to hear about your friendship with your wife. So rare these days. God bless you brother
I agree , for most of us Craftsman is the good stuff . I happen to have a 1/2" drive , ~ 18" handle Craftsman ratchet that has plenty of leverage . Getting old is not for cowards . But it beats the alternative . God bless Wyr
Most AC Delco parts are made in China, Mexico, or Canada keeps production costs down..Doesnt necessarily mean they are made in knock off factories, and just because it says AC Delco doesn't mean it's a dealer part, there are different grades
47:00 You can put an old scrubby deep well socket over the ball joint stud to get more press on the ball joint, but really you're suppose to use one of the other plates in the kit that go on the receiving cups to go over the ball joint stud. We'll make a shade tree mechanic out of you yet. :D
hi scanner pulling a all nighter circuits no starts etc clutches general testing motoyam too that dood is smart going for ASE this summer hopefully pass something
hi scanner,you were right on the Jeep.New pump,its fine.for the grooves in the spindle ( I had em Big time) hit em with the grinder,put a nice weld bead with the welding machine n ground them back down.A also stopped a noisy rattle in the front end that disappeared as soon as you tapped the brake.ball joints R still good in the 98' with 160K on the clock but my 2007 Accord needed ball joints,upper arms with the joint were only ten bucks more and all the lower bushings too.66K on the clock.Seems like not much service life built into the Toyota.Just my .02¢
i am wanting to become a better mechanic and parts sales man because I currently work at an auto parts store. do you have any advice that you could give me?
It's so funny you mention the cotter pin and tire thing. I was doing the same job. And I lost old cotter pin. Couldn't find it. And forgot about it and left it. When I was pulling into the driveway one day. I hear a "tsssssssssssss" I drove over the old cotter pin I couldn't find. And put a hole in my tire hahah. And it was ridiculously hard to get it out of the tire. I don't know if it wedged itself in a steel belt inside the tire. I'm pretty sure it wedged itself in a steel belt in the tire. Cuz that damn cotter pin was almost impossible to remove
Every time I do ball joints, I use a heat gun and heat the seating area, even a few 1000'ths of an inch will help to allow the joint to push out easier. When pressing in I do the same and I also put the Ball Joint in the Freezer for an hour or 2 to shrink it, it goes back in w/out much effort.
do you ever worry about messing up the seals in your brake master cylinder by pushing the caliper piston in without breaking the bleeder screw loose? i was told there is a chance that you can ruin your brake master cylinder that way.
+Tony Tabor it's not the master cylinder you need to worry about. It would be the ABS hydraulic circuits. And yes, we were always told to open a bleeder to prevent sediments from backing up into the ABS unit. Funny thing is, I never worried about it and never had a problem. So we are talking hundreds if not thousands of brake jobs. When you can damage a seal in a master cylinder is when bleeding the brakes on a high mileage car. Don't let the pedal go to the floor.
ScannerDanner thanks I guess I was always told to break the bleeder screw loose for good measure regardless of it being abs or not. it's nice to know that I don't have to worry as much now especially on a vehicle that is not abs and that I would be worried about the bleeder braking off.
If you grease the threads of the ball joint remover it makes it a whole lot easier and it keeps the tool from breaking, this goes for all steering removing tools with threads. If you don't lube the threads sometimes it will ruin eat the threads and ruin the tool especially on smaller tie rod and ball joint separating tools.
Lots of Chrysler upper ball joints do not move around in the joint like the lower ones do. Some of the upper ball joints actually are allowed to move up and down inside the joint and is considered normal, and you would notice them doing this when installing them as you tightening the upper ball joint the taper pulls down into the knuckle hole.
the upper joint is probably more of a pin with some vertical movement, on some rangerovers the bottom ball joint adjusts the height of the knuckle, I have a decent press but the kit never seems to have the correct bits.
No wasn't laughing at you. Just thought hey you have been out of the game for a while but that's okay. You do a great jobs on the diagnostic side. Keep up the good work.
hahaha, the one thing j hate the most is jeep XJ hubs.... i had a 96 that had a bad wheel bearing and needed to change it on the passenger side. took me 4 hours total to remove the stupid thing. no amount of gentle tapping would work, air hammer didnt work. i ended up grabbing a 60 pound sledge hammer and took the oxy-fuel torch and got the damn thing glowing and beat the piss out of it with the 60 pound then it finally popped out. gonna post the 40 second timelapse video of the process from my other channel in the replies below. anyway, GREAT video like usual and cant wait to see more coach vids :)
You can still scan for which wheel the ABS code is, even if you started the removal of the bearing assembly. Once you know which wheel the ABS computer is complaining about, then you figure out if it is the sensor or just a bad wire / connector.
+ScannerDanner Paul, the reason you were having such a problem removing and installing the ball joints is you weren't using the OTC ball joint press (assembling it) correctly. Also, you should always lubricate the threads with grease prior to use. The OTC pdf instructions are here www.otctools.com/sites/default/files/104950_en_0.pdf
If you would only move the jack stands from under the axle to under the frame the axel would drop giving you the room you need to get a socket or box wrench on the RAM screw!
Just did one backyard style almost exactly same problems as you with no air hammer and just as rusted. I got so pissed I went to Harbor Freight to find something to sacrifice to those out. Found an $8 lifetime warranty punch set that are actually really heavy duty. Put the punch on it, wailed with a hammer and it came loose. Punch is still perfect, too. Harbor Freight, whoda thunk?
I know it's been a few years, but when I scanned thru the comments I didn't any about why you didn't have access with the press... You had the truck lifted by the axle instead of by the frame allowing the axle to drop giving you clearance, by this time you may have realized that
that would cost more than the thing is worth.. also it will not stick very long on so much rust.. you need to brush or sand blast it first. but I admit I would spray some on and give it a try
man that rust!!! I'm originally from S.E PA and I know that all to well..I freelanced for a construction company that had plow and salt trucks man the undercarriages was just rotted away..I did brake lines every night almost.Im out here on the west cost now in a desert city not a ounce of rust...just sand and scorpions lol
funny. mindless. I see your blood pressure rise a few times. this is the labor part of mechanics. sometimes we forget how hard simple things can get . lol. we all go thru this as long as we stay in the industry. I'm sure it won't be the last.keep on buddy.
Hey DAN I was going to say maybe use a good craftsman deep well socket can use it with your press. Of course maybe you could use one of the large hammers from Eric the car guy. Lol. After all he had plenty to give away.
$120 gets you a Horror Freight compressor and their air chisel. Sometimes you have to wait a minute or so for the compressor to catch up, but it beats pounding on ball joints all afternoon.
You should use the penrtration oil . Not when your almost done but before you even start . I usually give it another soaking and have a coffee break to rethink the strategy . gives time for the crc wd40 or what ever to work I have pulled a ball out of the joint with a pickle fork and the f.kn tapered joint was still in the hub. You think why do I have to get this car lol then.
Haha, keeps stressing about the safety of dangerous flying metal particles and then goes to rectify the issue with a guardless grinder and grinding the damn stubby thing in your hand :D Jk lol, keep it up Mr. Danner!
Just started watching your videos and I'm hooked already. Given me the confidence to get into the ac on my avalanche myself, and know what to do when I get into rebuilding my trans am. Redoing the whole suspension, engine rebuild, whole nine yards. Definitely going to keep up with your videos.
I like you showing this at home for that is where most of us do them. Thanks
The struggle is real, I have not laughed so much in ages. You mirror my thoughts on spanner work, it is very relaxing and a nice break from Diagnostics but it really shows how far out of our comfort zone we are when going back to the spanners (wrenches).
I've got four years on you Paul and I physically can't swing a hammer any more due to Arthritis - this profession really takes its toll on your body.
Shop work is definitely a young man's game. Certainly not for us old folk on the yard. At least you have an awning when the rains comes for part II
I would have been tempted to screw the nut back on the top balljoint and press on the taper stud to bring the anvil down lower, giving you more room at the top.
Snap-on do a really cool flex head 1/2" ratchet the same length as a breaker bar for those sorts of jobs.
Milwaukee cordless are now available in the UK and I have a dilemma whether to go with them or snap-on for a cordless ratchet.
Cheers, Steve...
Wish I could go back in this video and tell myself that. Such a simple thing to do and I totally didn't even think about it. I could have then used my 2 ft breaker bar :-(
Thanks Steve!
Great video! A real video about a real repair outside the modern shop. I haven't laughed that hard in a while because we all have went through this stuff. Its always frozen like its welded on.
Got my ass kicked by this one. I don't do these types of repairs much anymore as you could tell. The word on the street is, if it doesn't have a wire attached to it, I can't fix it lol
Hey danner im the #1 fan of all your videos but this one, Man Rookie of the year
+Super032208 kind of harsh man. Just curious, can you list the "rookie" mistakes?
Keep in mind, this was done in my driveway, with the intent of doing the job the way a DIYer would have to do it.
Paul Danner is NOT a rookie, come on man. I can spot a seasoned tech from a mile away(I would not invest my time in watching these videos if he was a rookie)
thanks Jarin
even a discounted snap on still costs more than Milwaukee lol
Hey Paul. I get a kick out of watching your videos. You are not any different then the rest of us. That is written with much respect. Keep it real Brother. Praise God!
Another great video sir. Me and the wife have been together 21 years. We just celebrated our anniversary on 10/10. Congrats to you and the wife. Jim
Guys get the wifes they deserve --- for the most part any how. I know I'd be lost without mine
(Edit) Even though I don't deserve her :-)
Mr. Danner, glad to hear you like cats. My shop has a diagnostic cat which someone threw in our dumpster when she was just a kitten. She has now been living in the shop for over a year now. By the way, I'm a premium subscriber and own your book and have seen all your videos multiple times. Keep up the good work.
+John Hopkins thanks so much!
Lol, yes it does suck getting old. Reminds me of the old joke. "I still jump as high as I ever could, but I just can't stay up as long" . Thanks for the upload !
Put your purse down grab a real hammer and hit the thing! lol. I'm with you on back yard stuff. SO much easier with a FEW good tools plus basic air.
+Shawn Bauman lol good tio
+ScannerDanner tip
Hi Paul,really enjoying these videos,keep them coming
I love this video. Thank you ScannerDanner. Can't wait to see all your yard work on the old Jeep.
21:40 what is the kit called to remedy the spindle where the brake pads ride? Just did this job over the weekend and ran into the same issue. Super helpful video thanks.
I'm not sure, but check the description of this video, I've included information there
Just finding these Jeep repair videos. Loving the series, thanks for taking the time to film. The last thing I would want to be thinking about is camera angles while I am beating on a rusty car part.
lol, and now we all know why I don't do non electrical work :-)
Canada here...congrats...keep turning that wrench...one love ❤️...playa!
paul danner doing mechanic work couldnt miss it 😆😆🖒🖒🖒
I say this out of love, your grinder doesn't have a safety Shield. I talk from experience(5 stitches) on my finger. someone came up behind me and grabbed my side . thought it would be funny but when he got sprayed with blood he stop laughing.
I don't think most of us care what your video's are about. We always learn something from you, even this old guy. I hate to see anyone struggle but you got the job done so far. Without air tools that job is a lot harder though. I have done many, many Jeep ball joints and once you know the capability of your tools the job goes much faster. After years of scratching my head I have a couple of tips that might help you or someone else.
Cutting the ball joint stud off with a grinder or cutting torch gives you easier access to install and old socket or whatever to press the ball joint out. Placing suppoprt closer the where you're hammering will allow more of the shock to be applied to the part you are hammering on. I could see the axle vibrating when you were beating on it. Lots of hammering impact wasted there.
The grooves worn into the spindle can easily be repaired by electric welding up the grooves and grinding them smooth. Been doing it that way for years without a problem.
At your age,"sonny" you should be at your prime... {:-). When i was your age i was climbing all over cars and trucks like flies on dog $#it. I'm only 5'4 so i used to get under the hood with the engine to work on it. Now that i'm 66, some days i have a hard time getting out of bed from 47+ years of automotive repair torture but i shake it off and get going on the days they need me to help out at work.
I'll be anxiously waiting for part II
use a socket on the bottom ??
@12:45 what kind of lube/penetrating stuff are you using? Thank you for the video
they were stuck in there good..I just replaced my mom's Hub assembly on her 97 Chevy s10 blazer and it was easier then I thought it be..good job on it your doing a great job..
Being that you are only a kid, " here he comes to save the day " is from an old cartoon we used to watch on T.V. called Mighty Mouse. Yeah, I am getting old, but the knees are still good!
a real pleasure to watch,good work sir!.
WTH!!! what happen to the tag line for scanner danner "stand back and stay clean!" Nice vid Paul. Glad to see you get back to the basics! Man it so funny to see you doing non diagnostic work!
makes me laugh when a diagnostic tech struggles with ball joints but i guess it makes him laugh when i struggle with diagnostics haha
+UBBERTANKER love this comment
Love your sense of humour
a little to late now, but to gain more clearance for the press when doing the upper joint, you could have supported the jeep by the frame and let the suspension hang...you got it done though! ..and thunder?? when did you film this?
+Pyro17059 good tip, but by the time I realized I could have used more space, it was easier to just keep going
ACDelco suspension and driveline components are typically manufactured by Raybestos, and there are two grades available. I think ACDelco Advantage parts are the lower end ones, and I can't recall the name of the higher end line. For Raybestos, its the Service line and Professional line. :)
A nifty trick I ran into recently that seems to work quite well for getting tapered joints loose, take two hammers of equal mass and smack the joint from opposing sides at the same time. It works really well!
If in doubt get a bigger hammer :-) Paul if you get some suspension & brake tools added to the tools section of the Scannerdanner.com website I am sure people on here will be interested.
great video where I work we fill the groves in with a mig welder and grind them flush the knuckles are cast steel and weld up nicely and the welds are harder than the oe knuckle keep up the work
The older you get Paul the longer the breaker bars need to be!! Trust me.
+tecnaman I heard that
They were stubborn little buggers. Love the safety, glasses on but no safety shield on the grinder, and no gloves.
Come on Paul, practice what you preach. lol
Good video again
its alot easy to do the bottom one first then turn the c clamp upside down then u can use a socket straght thro where the bottom bull joint was removed
Paul, Well done man your videos are always helpful, and I am grateful for the knowledge.
I have great respect for you and the respect you show to your wife. live long man
Old is relative. Like my aunt who was 100 told her friend who was 98 "you are just a mere child.)
hey Dan, what you are calling the spindle, isnt it called a steering knuckle? or at least everyone i know calls them steering knuckles, maybe just a different name for them up here in canada?
We call them steering knuckles in Texas too. I believe technically a spindle also contains the center (non-moving) part of a non-driven axle (front on RWD, rear on FWD, trailers, etc.), usually with tapered sections the bearings ride on and threads for the outer nut... or at least it did before they went to sealed bearings everywhere.
Ok, thats what i had thought, just a miss wording/communication on his end with it than.
+Aarons Automotive steering knuckle, spindle...whatever :-)
From Wikipedia
In an automobile, the spindle is a part of the suspension system that carries the hub for the wheel and attaches to the upper and lower control arms.
I probably used the wrong term for this Jeep. Steering knuckle would be probably more accurate.
On a Jeep like that (YJ, TJ, XJ, ZJ, WJ) if you forget to take the axle nut off or have trouble getting it off, it is possible to pull the hub bearing and axle shaft while they are bolted together.
Another tip for removing a rusted up hub bearing on a Jeep, leave the bolts in 2-3 turns, and use your socket and an extension wedged against the axle housing, and use the power steering to push it out. Another thing you can do is put a 12 point impact socket on the head of the bolt, and hit the socket with a hammer. Doing it that way also lessens the chances of messing up a good bearing by beating on it with a hammer or a puller.
you can fix those grooves in the knuckle with a mig welder and some quick grinder work. it actually works very well
Wow it fought you the whole way. Well done Paul . Cheers !!
Great shots Paul! That's a lot of work to set the camera for those shots! And by the way,your wife is very nice,you're a lucky man! 👍
Good timing. I have a lower balljoint on a Hyundai to do. I was thinking of using my air chisel to remove it but I was worried about mushrooming it what bit should I use? Regarding air at home I use a small (and cheap) 9cfm compressor. The secret is to use 3/4 inch line without the regulator. Then you get about 5 seconds on the impact and about 20 on the air hammer, good enough for home repairs.
+Andrew Thompson first, make sure there is no snap ring. Second, use a good air chisel, if it is a weak one you will mushroom it. Third, don't use an actual chisel bit, use the hammer bit or round punch type bit. Finally, place the bit right between where the ball socket and outer housing meet. This will keep you away from the edge of the housing and will prevent the mushrooming you mentioned
Put oil on the threaded part of the pressing tool to save the thread so Pete doesn't need to replacxe the screw.
It figures ScannerDanner would have SOLUS tires
+tom christman haha nice
is this your first jeep?
Yes it is
well congratulations on your life time purchase. you will forever now own a jeep.
do the u-joints need regular lubrication for low wear or you leave them until they`re worn ?
+bobl78 regular lubrication but only if they have a grease fitting. The factory ones and the ones in this jeep are sealed.
I have found that a rolling head pry bar works better than a screwdriver to compress the caliper. I would find starting with the bottom first is a better route so you can use the tool upside down on the top, that would let you use a impact or ratchet on the tool
I've always just used the oversized C clamp. By the time Paul had the piston(s) about 1/2 in? I would have been done. Plus as an added bonus. You really want to drive the pistons back in with even pressure all the way around. Screw driver methods can cause the piston to tilt slightly in the bore. Just sayin' That's how I was trained and have always done it. Other peoples mileage may vary...
I love it. How its done in real life. Screw driver used for everything but whats its made for. Also the Snap On electric ratchets are awesome. I have the 3/8 and 1/4 ones.
Hey paul why did you do it at home should have made a school job of it?
Figured a DIY video should be done from a driveway at home.
That's good but it's fun to see you work with your guys just dont get crop dusted ha ha .
The first ball joint you mention you said was too long and you end up returning it & end up getting right right ball joint & i was wondering if you have the right ball joint part number because i'm having the same problem.
If I showed it here, or listed in the description, other than that, sorry, I don't have it
it has an injection pump or a common rail on this one??
+armando nika it's not a common rail, that much I know. Don't all diesel engines have some sort of injection pump? I'm not up on my diesel fuel controls that's for sure.
+ScannerDanner on the RV not the Jeep right?
+ScannerDanner no i meant the jeep, yeah it probably has an injection pump its a bit old, maybe the 2002 and on have common rail. So you probably arent going to make any video on this kind of fuel system 😁😁
What do you mean crappy old Craftsman 1/2 inch ratchet? That is the main stay of of my tools. I know craftsman are not what they used to be but the old ones are very reliable. At least they have been for me. Oh and yeah you are just a kid. Movie quotes are cool. My wife is my best friend too. Why didn't ya put a piece of metal over the bottom of the press and then push up on the stud or a big washer and put it over the stud so they press would press against the washer and pus the stud up. Good job so far now I gotta go watch part two. I wonder if my 87 Cherokee has the same front end as yours. Ah a Pink Floyd fan. Next.
+MostlymoparIH :-) crappy because it was too short and the amount of rotation between clicks is ridiculous when you've actually used a real ratchet :-)
Didn't have a cheater pipe to fit.
Awesome to hear about your friendship with your wife. So rare these days. God bless you brother
I've known her since she was 5 years old. Guess I should check out some better tools. What ratchet do you like that you use?
I agree , for most of us Craftsman is the good stuff . I happen to have a 1/2" drive , ~ 18" handle Craftsman ratchet that has plenty of leverage .
Getting old is not for cowards . But it beats the alternative .
God bless
Wyr
Nice one, I 'm going to do mine next week. in a car, front left,inner CV joint.
Most AC Delco parts are made in China, Mexico, or Canada keeps production costs down..Doesnt necessarily mean they are made in knock off factories, and just because it says AC Delco doesn't mean it's a dealer part, there are different grades
I've used sunex stuff for YEARS. Never had any issue with them. They hold up just as well as my Snap on Stuff.
47:00 You can put an old scrubby deep well socket over the ball joint stud to get more press on the ball joint, but really you're suppose to use one of the other plates in the kit that go on the receiving cups to go over the ball joint stud.
We'll make a shade tree mechanic out of you yet. :D
Nice job keep the videos coming love them 😀
hi scanner pulling a all nighter circuits no starts etc clutches general testing motoyam too that dood is smart going for ASE this summer hopefully pass something
hi scanner,you were right on the Jeep.New pump,its fine.for the grooves in the spindle ( I had em Big time) hit em with the grinder,put a nice weld bead with the welding machine n ground them back down.A also stopped a noisy rattle in the front end that disappeared as soon as you tapped the brake.ball joints R still good in the 98' with 160K on the clock but my 2007 Accord needed ball joints,upper arms with the joint were only ten bucks more and all the lower bushings too.66K on the clock.Seems like not much service life built into the Toyota.Just my .02¢
i am wanting to become a better mechanic and parts sales man because I currently work at an auto parts store. do you have any advice that you could give me?
It's so funny you mention the cotter pin and tire thing. I was doing the same job. And I lost old cotter pin. Couldn't find it. And forgot about it and left it. When I was pulling into the driveway one day. I hear a "tsssssssssssss" I drove over the old cotter pin I couldn't find. And put a hole in my tire hahah. And it was ridiculously hard to get it out of the tire. I don't know if it wedged itself in a steel belt inside the tire. I'm pretty sure it wedged itself in a steel belt in the tire. Cuz that damn cotter pin was almost impossible to remove
Every time I do ball joints, I use a heat gun and heat the seating area, even a few 1000'ths of an inch will help to allow the joint to push out easier.
When pressing in I do the same and I also put the Ball Joint in the Freezer for an hour or 2 to shrink it, it goes back in w/out much effort.
do you ever worry about messing up the seals in your brake master cylinder by pushing the caliper piston in without breaking the bleeder screw loose? i was told there is a chance that you can ruin your brake master cylinder that way.
+Tony Tabor it's not the master cylinder you need to worry about. It would be the ABS hydraulic circuits. And yes, we were always told to open a bleeder to prevent sediments from backing up into the ABS unit. Funny thing is, I never worried about it and never had a problem. So we are talking hundreds if not thousands of brake jobs.
When you can damage a seal in a master cylinder is when bleeding the brakes on a high mileage car. Don't let the pedal go to the floor.
ScannerDanner thanks I guess I was always told to break the bleeder screw loose for good measure regardless of it being abs or not. it's nice to know that I don't have to worry as much now especially on a vehicle that is not abs and that I would be worried about the bleeder braking off.
I do suspension work a lot and I found a ball joint press works more efficiently.
Oh and I forgot, Sunex does in fact make decent tools. I have been impressed with their swivel impact sockets.
If you grease the threads of the ball joint remover it makes it a whole lot easier and it keeps the tool from breaking, this goes for all steering removing tools with threads. If you don't lube the threads sometimes it will ruin eat the threads and ruin the tool especially on smaller tie rod and ball joint separating tools.
+Jarrod when you use an impact gun on them is when the damage occurs to the threads
Lots of Chrysler upper ball joints do not move around in the joint like the lower ones do. Some of the upper ball joints actually are allowed to move up and down inside the joint and is considered normal, and you would notice them doing this when installing them as you tightening the upper ball joint the taper pulls down into the knuckle hole.
the upper joint is probably more of a pin with some vertical movement, on some rangerovers the bottom ball joint adjusts the height of the knuckle, I have a decent press but the kit never seems to have the correct bits.
No wasn't laughing at you. Just thought hey you have been out of the game for a while but that's okay. You do a great jobs on the diagnostic side. Keep up the good work.
hahaha, the one thing j hate the most is jeep XJ hubs.... i had a 96 that had a bad wheel bearing and needed to change it on the passenger side. took me 4 hours total to remove the stupid thing. no amount of gentle tapping would work, air hammer didnt work. i ended up grabbing a 60 pound sledge hammer and took the oxy-fuel torch and got the damn thing glowing and beat the piss out of it with the 60 pound then it finally popped out.
gonna post the 40 second timelapse video of the process from my other channel in the replies below.
anyway, GREAT video like usual and cant wait to see more coach vids :)
Thanks Dan for the video, it will help!!
You can still scan for which wheel the ABS code is, even if you started the removal of the bearing assembly. Once you know which wheel the ABS computer is complaining about, then you figure out if it is the sensor or just a bad wire / connector.
+ScannerDanner Paul, the reason you were having such a problem removing and installing the ball joints is you weren't using the OTC ball joint press (assembling it) correctly. Also, you should always lubricate the threads with grease prior to use. The OTC pdf instructions are here www.otctools.com/sites/default/files/104950_en_0.pdf
To be continued!!!???? I want my money back! ;)
That's like a brain surgeon trying to do hip replacment surgery ;)
+drm315 haha nice
If you would only move the jack stands from under the axle to under the frame the axel would drop giving you the room you need to get a socket or box wrench on the RAM screw!
nice video diagnostic man turning wrenches lol I knew you could
Yep... Remembering to get all brackets and covers on in the correct order can really save you from a lot og hassle...
i have welded and ground those grooves on the knuckle or as he called it a spindle, with no issues.
youll never find rust buckets like that here in the south, dam thats bad.
delco is making their stuff in china and mexico now.
while pressing the ball joint hit the area it goes through it comes out a lot easier
i loosen axle nuts before jacking with tire still on the vehicle and on the ground
Put socket on the bottom to lower the press
remove the stand from under the axle at that side and place at the frame and your axle will drop allowing you more room.
Just did one backyard style almost exactly same problems as you with no air hammer and just as rusted. I got so pissed I went to Harbor Freight to find something to sacrifice to those out. Found an $8 lifetime warranty punch set that are actually really heavy duty. Put the punch on it, wailed with a hammer and it came loose. Punch is still perfect, too. Harbor Freight, whoda thunk?
I know it's been a few years, but when I scanned thru the comments I didn't any about why you didn't have access with the press... You had the truck lifted by the axle instead of by the frame allowing the axle to drop giving you clearance, by this time you may have realized that
Did you used the snap on scanner to make sure you needed ball joints 😂 👍
I got a puller if u need to borrow it
Excellent..as always!Thank you.
what about giving it a coat of rust spray paint while your there ( cover the disk and caliper )
+cars should I paint the rotor too? ;-)
yes, how about pink ?
that would cost more than the thing is worth.. also it will not stick very long on so much rust.. you need to brush or sand blast it first. but I admit I would spray some on and give it a try
Could always use a air compressor and blast the top rust off and give it a coat of rust paint
man that rust!!! I'm originally from S.E PA and I know that all to well..I freelanced for a construction company that had plow and salt trucks man the undercarriages was just rotted away..I did brake lines every night almost.Im out here on the west cost now in a desert city not a ounce of rust...just sand and scorpions lol
My favorite part is when you scrape the end of your axle on the street at 19:25
funny. mindless. I see your blood pressure rise a few times. this is the labor part of mechanics. sometimes we forget how hard simple things can get . lol. we all go thru this as long as we stay in the industry. I'm sure it won't be the last.keep on buddy.
Your wife looks and acts very sweet. You are blessed with your family.
Hey DAN
I was going to say maybe use a good craftsman deep well socket can use it with your press. Of course maybe you could use one of the large hammers from Eric the car guy. Lol. After all he had plenty to give away.
Next time use Moog or spicer ball joints and u-joints. And you have to have the 4x4 accessory kit for that press.
holy moly i can see why they call it the rust belt up your way paul
so glad I don't have to deal with all that rust here in GA
$120 gets you a Horror Freight compressor and their air chisel. Sometimes you have to wait a minute or so for the compressor to catch up, but it beats pounding on ball joints all afternoon.
You should use the penrtration oil . Not when your almost done but before you even start . I usually give it another soaking and have a coffee break to rethink the strategy . gives time for the crc wd40 or what ever to work
I have pulled a ball out of the joint with a pickle fork and the f.kn tapered joint was still in the hub. You think why do I have to get this car lol then.
Haha, keeps stressing about the safety of dangerous flying metal particles and then goes to rectify the issue with a guardless grinder and grinding the damn stubby thing in your hand :D Jk lol, keep it up Mr. Danner!
+Chewie2254 good point but
The grinder would just take the skin off my finger, the chisel has potential to lose an eye.
I fix the brake pad wear on the knuckles of a XJ by sandblasting the grooves, mig weld, then grind the welds smooth. Lasts about 5 years, repeat