C6 Corvette Competition drift car. redesigning the whole thing.
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Great progress Taylor! ...one thing, and it's an important one; add a substantial gusset to that 'L' bracket that you made to support the weight of the Turbo. it is guaranteed to break at the weld. It is more than up to the task of holding that weight in a static state, but where it WILL fail is under dynamic conditions.
I was thinking the same thing. With all the over building he’s doing I don’t want to see him skimp on that and have it cost him.
Upvote
@@benjaminofuasia9236 lol reddit much
have commented the same on previous vids, a 45* plate triangle would shift the load away from the weld during dynamics like a hard flick.
This guy knows how to engineer.
Don't cut the egt wiring between the thermocouples and controller, they're extremely sensitive to changes in length (resistance). I'd put the controller in the bay and run the CAN wiring through the firewall.
This!
Not only resistance, but if the connections aren't the _exact_ same alloys as the thermocouple, that'll cause false readings too.
Thermocouples aren't necessarily sensitive to the change in resistance but are sensitive to the inevitably wrong wire/splice/solder you use to extend it. True TC wire is matched to the type of TC(same exact metallurgy of the similar metals). TC produce a voltage based on the disimilar metal being effected by the temp change, the voltage drop caused by a minute increase in resistance in neglible.
Now if it were an RTD then resistance of the wiring is what can effect the reading but I would be willing to bet EGT probes are TCs and not RTDs. RTDs use 2,3or4 wires and measure the resistance of the element so can be directly effected by mismatched resistance
Only way I would extend these was if the manufacturer sold a specific plug and play extension harness or you knew EXACTLY what you were doing and which materials to use etc etc.
Source: I'm an industrial instrument mechanic and we have TCs that are 100s of feet from the transmitter using TC specific extension wire. 👍👍
Hey Taylor..... Third, Fourth Opinion yadda yadda..... please do NOT cut that thermocouple wiring for your EGT sensors!! They are Type-K sensors and like everyone above has said if you are using anything other than Chromel and Alumel wiring and connectors they will give you the wrong readings..... Source Industrial Electronics Research and Development Engineering Tech who works in Industrial Gasses field for many years. Enough Jibber Jabber.....
@@shawnthinks How wrong are the readings without the correct extensions? It seems like you have the TC as a voltage source and an extension made of normal wire would have nearly the same voltage at the other end. The Seebeck effect only occurs where the TC wires are welded together at the end, so not using TC wire for the full run doesn't seem like too big of a deal. The added resistance from the extra wire will probably skew the readings because of the added resistance and how low of a voltage the Seebeck effects produces, so he should certainly calibrate the TCs after they are wired up.
I'll drop another comment here about the EGT's. You cant just splice them into bulkhead connectors and expect accurate readings. Thermocouples like that function because the two wires are different, but very specific alloys. The junction between the alloys produces a voltage thats proportional to the temperature at the junction, and thats what they read to give you temperature. If you pin them to a copper wire, you'll be adding in more junctions that will throw off the reading.
Those yellow plugs that came on the EGT leads are specific thermocouple plugs. They work because the contacts are the exact same alloys as the two wires. If you really want to cut the leads and splice them into a plug, you need to make sure the contacts match the "letter type" of the thermocouples you have.
Good to know. There goes that plan. Lol
@@Taylordrifts you call yourself a fabricator and didnt know that..? you should be ashamed mister
@@gearbanginentertainment7476 hey now everywhere has to start somewhere. I wouldn't have known that myself if it wasn't for a specific job experience where i had to learn.
@@gearbanginentertainment7476 good to know you were born knowing everything.
@@Taylordrifts you can buy the correct pins for thermocouples for an autosport/deutsch connector, they are called alumel and chromel pins. they are very expensive though (last i looked they were around $20 per pin). also be sure to use the proper wire
wait taylor you are aware those EGTs are thermocoulpes. cutting their wiring off and re doing them can make then read incorrectly. The wiring is dissimilar metals, you cant just cut and pin them and then go further with copper. they have to stay dissimilar metals until the device that reads them.
He'll figure it out, lol.
Taylor, Prowire makes special pins to do what you want to do with your EGT sensors thru an Autosport connector, but they are $13- $23 for a single pin or socket depending on your wire size. www.prowireusa.com/milspec%20-thermocouple-contacts.html
I can't say I know that is true, but I will add a like just to bump this up.
Edit: I was curious so I did a bit of googling, I can now say this is true. Sounds like he has a good idea for ease of use, but not one that is going to work out very well for accurate readings.
I am always amazed at the things you can learn in the comment sections.
They do make thermocouple contacts but they are stupid expensive. In theory it can be done still, but it can throw readings off if the temp on each side of the connector is different which can happen here.
@@NomisChild1 exactly. but it sounded like he was just going to run the thermocouple wiring to the bulkhead fitting and then run copper wire on the inside of the car. so not only are the pins wrong but the wire too. So if that is what he was planning on, i hope he sees this.
Enough sleeper slobber and get back to work. Hate it when you say we’re out of time. The 2-3 day waits are painful 😂
Killer work dude! So inspiring
I swear damn near every time you post a vid I go in the garage and get to working on my s14 or my Z on something I’ve been putting off doing. So thanks for the inspiration my guy 🤝
same bro by the time i finish a video i find myself tinkering on my 7 😂
Makes me want to work on my nova but it's stored an hour away
@@lonelydriver8971 same same but I'm lazy AF hahah but I guess my 7 won't get LS swapped by itself
cant wait to get my everlast 225 in the mail :)
Make sure if you run the EGT thermocouple wires through a bulkhead connector that the pins are the same alloys as the wire. If they are not you will get faulty readings for the temperature on your gauges.
I really enjoyed the added shop drama with the knife cutter. 🤣 Feels like a real TV show now!
I wish I could have heard all Jose's replies... It sounded like they were having fun with it.
Dont runt that oil cooler. I work for a company that sells transmissions and one of the most common failures we see is people trying to save money by flushing the cooler and not replacing it. We say they used our transmission as flush machine.. Those types of cooler are not flushable, they trap debris inside. Its not worth it..
Im thinking the same. No point in risking that motor
What does the trannys have to do with the oil cooler he welded lol.and they are flushable its before the filter and isn't going past it.
It's literally in line right before the oil filters. It'll be fine for sure.
Can’t you stuff a wooden dowel in the hole if it takes up the whole diameter of the hole so the debri can’t enter it at all? Then use a wood screw to pull the cutoff back out the hole?
@@jerrywilcox9890 Transmissions and engines both get damaged by debris..
alright picasso i like it
I don't believe you should run the drain of the turbo directly into the dry sump. It will create too much of a low pressure (Vacuum) in the turbo, causing oiling issues for it. You will need to build a sump can mid drain hose that has some sort of vacuum break or negative pressure port so the turbo's drain is able to just gravity feed into the sump can without being sucked out
That was my thought as well.
Taylor - Review the following Skid Factory TH-cam video for more info on why this is a bad idea:
"Don't make these mistakes with low mount turbos". Starting at the 4:40 timestamp. Its not exactly like your setup but it is still relevant as to why you shouldn't have the scavenge pump pulling directly from the drain of the turbo.
glad its not just me that noticed this. he could swap the 90 elbow on the outlet for a tee and run one side to the rocker cover as a vent thus eliminating the vacuum
Wouldn't the vacuum from the pump also be acting on the feed line, as long as the lines are sealed it will just circulate oil faster. If he has nominal 60psi of oil pressure and manages to pull a nearly complete vacuum with the dry sump, the total pressure differential is 74psi. I don't know if you are suppose to size the feed line orifice based on the expected oil pressure but he could just decrease it's size to compensate for the partial vacuum on the drain if necessary.
@@NNFaNRacing My concern is if there is any restriction like an orifice in the inlet oil supply to the turbo that could cause the vacuum from the dry sump pump to draw in air through the turbo’s oil seals thus aerating the oil in the turbo’s bearing causing premature bearing failure. But honestly I may just be going down a rabbit hole.
Next time, blow air into the opposite opening “while” cutting. So the metal chips blow out as you cut. Try rolling paper towel into a ball and stuffing in the hole. Maybe some “bread” yes bread 🥖
Lastly trying putting grease in the cutting area.
Grease always worked well for me when repairing blown out plugs on 4.6 Fords. There were always a couple pieces that made it in the chamber but a good long blow gun usually took care of them. I don't see why it wouldn't work just as well, if not better when using a burr.
Compressed air in one end and a shop vac near the other where you're working if possible. Working with gravity helps too.
Agree with the bread - I’ve used this trick to pick up broken glass 👍👍
This really is my favorite series.. not stoked for this to end as much I want to see you shred
If I spent as much time on my build as I have watching this build, I’d probably be done by now.
Make sure to use the proper alumel and chromel pins and sockets for the EGT's if you are putting them on a connector. Prowireusa is a great source for those type of pins and really anything wiring related. Also make sure you get the proper positioners for your crimping tool to get the proper crimp on the Autosport connector pins. It is not the same positioner as the one you used for the Firewall bulkhead connector.
I literally can't say it enough bro this build is heavy duty genius level garage build stuff, I hope I can come out to FD to see u shredding big tires in that thing.
Dude coming from someone who has been here since the beginning of your TH-cam days, you’ve come such a long way and you are one of my favorite people to watch! I’ve learned so much and enjoy every video! Keep up the great work man💪
Looking awsome, A thought / observation A tab from the bottom of the intercooler to the bottom of the oil cooler will “two birds one stone” triangulate the intercooler mount and support the bottom of the oil cooler
Hey bro, when your cutting the fittings off a cooler fit a air line to the other end passing air threw so it blows most (more then without air flow) debris out the cooler 🤘🏻
There are channels with unlimited budgets and small army of workers, they still don't turn out quality or amazing work/ideas/thought out Builds like this. Damn Taylor, just damn 👏
Channel names??
This scares me
You need a sump for the turbo to drain into and then have the scavenge pump pull oil from there, if you don't the pump will suck the turbo dry
I agree. Or just drain the turbo back into the oil pan as you would normally. If there isn't enough vertical drop, then the sump can is the only way to go.
I was thinking the exact same. Also need to make sure the sump has an atmospheric vent.
Taylor - Review the following "The Skid Factory" TH-cam video for more info on why this is a bad idea:
"Don't make these mistakes with low mount turbos". Starting at the 4:40 timestamp. Its not exactly like your setup but it is still relevant as to why you shouldn't have the scavenge pump pulling directly from the drain of the turbo.
Who else is totally hooked on watching this build?
Said it before... this guy is a beast. Skillz on skillz awesome man. Thanks for sharing you build.
I do my wiring on paper basically the same as you but instead of writing the color I cut about an inch of the wire I used and put a dab of hot glue and glue the small piece of wire next to the pin number and stuff that way if I have 2 similar color purple wires I don't get confused which one I called purple and which on I called violet. Just have a piece of the wire to compare too.
:54 Josue is such a chill dude!
Seeing Cleeters new drift car was cool, but watching this thing get built has been so much better!!!
Man I can't get enough of the longer videos, thankyou for all the work you put in Taylor, absolutely loving the progress 😍👌
Might be worth building a shield that well cover the coolant fittings. At minimum just enough where if it gets loose or something it's not sparying on you. Just last weekend I watched some one get sprayed by hot coolant when a hose let got and got 2nd & 3rd degree burns. Just cause it passes tech doesn't means it's the safest way. Just means it's the minimum you have to do.
Just a simple cover out of sheet metal that covers the side facing you, top, front that is held on with Rev. nuts. Quick and easy to take on and off.
hey mate when scavenging oil from a turbo you need to run a vent line from the scavenge point at the turbo outlet to your rocker cover or have a breather filter on it. The scavenge wont work properly if its pulling a vacuum on the outlet of the turbo and you'll end up smoking your turbo seals from oil build up.
Learned about transfer punches from you. and yes, it has changed my life drastically.
I have been watching this playlist a little later. Not sure if this has been done yet or not, but you should start a second TH-cam channel called the jibber jabber where we get to hear all of your thoughts explained in detail. Love the work by the way and I’ve been holding off to see the end product.
I've been watching you Since the beginning of the ls street truck and I absolutely love your videos and look forward to every upload keep on making great informational content
lol the wiring nightmare all written out just makes me love my haltech so much more, they make it so freaking easy with their software, you assign everything you want to use to suitable pins, and then it tells you what color corrosponds to that pin, and if in 2 years you lose your paper work of the layout, you can simply load up the tune on the laptop from the ecu, and print out or just look at the wiring diagram with all the colors and everything, i love it its already helped a lot espesually adding things because not all pins can be used for all types of inputs and outputs so with just a eleite 750 i was limited so it was good to be able to lay it out in software, know its going to work because everything is assigned, then make the harness to suit
Little trick an old timer taught me about cleaning coolers like that. Spray a whole shit load of wd40 inside of it and rinse it thoroughly with water. The wd40 helps free up all of the particles and clumps some of it together making clean up easier.
Used that trick dozens of times on similar coolers, radiators, intercoolers etc.
with that alternator, use 0g wire and will allow more current to flow to what you need!
The girlfriend and I started hello fresh a couple weeks ago! And everything you say is 100% true 👍
Healthier eating
Time together prepping and cooking
And all in the same time frame of eating out!!
Good luck with the miatas nitrous oxide this weekend at kickers this weekend FF I love the Miata, I think the smallest car with LS power is having the most fun 🎯
Please talk to the companies that make the turbocharger and the dry sump, and the engine about the scavenge on the turbo drain. You will likely need a restrictor on the feed line. You can actually suck so much oil from the turbo drain with the scavenge pump that you lower the engine oil pressure.
You should run a restrictor on every turbo always pretty much.
@@douglasm3310 Yeah, was more referring to making sure it was the correct size.
Or have it drain into a vented catch tank that the scavenge pump pulls from.
Man, this car has turned to be an amazing build, such details on evrything including being able to service it in a pinch. True car masterbuilders. I shure want to be able to see this car in person when it is finished. Exelent.
You should get a hand bender for 1/2 tubing, I got one from rigid and it works amazing. Pretty tight radius on it also, makes brackets like that much more appealing
Hey Taylor, Next time you need to cut fittings on a core apply air pressure to the opposite side to blow shavings out while you are cutting. Love the build so far bud.
Anytime I got to cut/grind on an opening of a cooler/radiator I use a second air hose with a blower at about 30psi sealed into another opening and close any others if there is. Always had good luck doing that method with a basic flush afterwards.
I have never done this but an idea would be to cut and grind on the oil cooler while it is under positive pressure. So you would do them one at a time with an air line on the opposite side in theory it would keep debris from going into the cooler.
It warms my heart to see you getting so excited over the fancy parts, you've worked so hard to get to the point where you can afford and make use of them!
So glad to see you're taking the time to get it built correctly and getting it right the first time👍 can't wait to see you cleet and Adam sending it!
Make sure to pattern or tehnical draw your bash bars in case you tweak em while testing you have some extras ready for the season
Absolute Goliath! So stoked for the upcoming round of KK... let’s goooo!!!!
Congratulations at qualifying #1 Taylor!
I don't mind your jabber at all mr, I luv your vids and so wish I could be doing the same thing, your an inspiration! Cheers !
Add to a comment. The brackets you made for the intercooler has all support in the horizontal plane and it is basically cantilevered aka hanging in space. The front of that car is going to probably vibrate, shake and bounce...maybe somewhat violently. You really need some Y and Z support like triangles gussets and or someway to add support below the cooler. Gonna shake like a large mammary gland jogging down the road.
Every one of your videos I learn something new or get a fresh idea of how I want to do certain aspects of my next project. Love your content keep doing what you do man!!!! Can't wait to see you get to rip this thing and dial it in!!
If you thin out rtv with acetone you can dip your fiberglass heat shielding. Let it drip dry and the fiberglass will get sealed and not fray.
If you wanna run that mishimoto oil cooler, hook one end up to a garden hose and leave it on for like 20 mins. Leave it in the sun to dry out before installing to the oil system.
You made the right choice with the oil cooler. I was saying why would you cut it? When I was watching the video. I can't wait to see the next video. Keep up the awesome work on the vette.
Looks like you're having immense fun...
Designing the wiring harness and associated pin connections looked highly technical...
Taylor you are the best you tuber of them all keep up the great work 🇬🇧👍👍
Another option you can do is call Vaughn At RTR and have him design your bash bars and the intercooler mounting options he has a great idea about using aluminum for the bash bars and steel for the area to mount to for the bash bar.
He described this for his most recent video about selling one of his old drift cars to Cletus.
I think RTR might be just a little busy right now for making a few bash bars.
@@foamdataservices I wasn’t saying make them for him but have one of his guys to give Taylor some blueprints or ideas to help him come up with an aluminum bar and a steel frame mount.
DC Power is a staple for a bad ass HO alt. They gained their name from the car audio industry from back in the day.....but also a major brand that has a bad ass product is the guy cleetus went thru for his upgraded alt for neighbor with the lights mounted to the car. The company is an Ohio local to me and all I use for all my HO alt needs from a car audio aspect.
THANK YOU for changing that cooler mounting. Very important change imo. Anyway, awesome work as always Taylor. Cheers mate
Love how you are watching formula one in the background!!!!! Canada was a fun race to watch.
I may be wrong but I think you need a little tank on the turbo return so it can scavenge properly.
Re oil cooler i was paranoid when you were working on it with the burr. Glad you swapped
Good call on the oil cooler, before you re-addressed that I was like "dude no way after the carbide bur should that thing go on the car." Good call
Hey Taylor just popin in to say that I really like your video and have been watching for a really long time and hope to be able to watch for a long time to come
My most favorite Chanel on TH-cam
i don't know anything about fab but i would say a few things - flush out the oil cooler and assuage your mind, use more zip ties, use rubber hoses for intercooler and air intake cause they are going to get bumped and jostled - rubber hoses will isolate components...make things more modular and add fans to back of intercooler, add fans to blow on headers to decrease heat in addition to the ceramic coating...make everything in front of engine modular and bump resistant and get spares...it looks like you will get it bulletproof but lots of work - keep going - it will be a monster - get it rolling and do some serious testing before you set everything in stone. make sure you have enough airflow - think about a cowl induction or slots on hood?
I think there is need of some flex for your inter cooler because it linked the engine to the frame and your intake pipe will break from the movements of the engine
Your local radiator shop or racing engine shop can hot flush the cooler for you and get it clean. Just a thought if you really want to use the Mishimoto cooler here or later on a different car.
Since it's close to the turbo, can u tab the turbo to the bar with a bolt to give the turbo a little more sturdiness
Im really digging this build! Great work Taylor
Just watched Cleetus pick up his monster new drift car earlier. Nice to be on top and just buy the thing. As far as drifting goes he is still a beginner but that ride is so far and beyond.
Great thinking on bash bar
Build some ‘burst’ boxes to cover the bulk head fittings, that way if you get a leak you don’t get sprayed with hot coolant.
if concerned about swarfe left in cooler, do an oil flush before final install
Anyone else think he was going to scrap the single turbo for the dual turbos lmao? I read the title and "throws papers up in the air" lmao, I can't wait to see you in comp with this build... but as bad as it sounds I can't wait for the first couple comps to see how all these awesome ideas helps you fix and tinker between rounds/comps.
Interesting stuff on the wiring harness. Or the whole car really. Get er dun.
You never know what you’re gonna get watching Taylor’s channel sometimes it’s how good of a burnout can my turbo truck do and other times it’s exactly how to wire an entire chassis harness
Helpful tip turn ac vents all way up, cold air falls heat rises, enjoy the vids.
Next time you cut fittings off an air/fluid flowing core, attach a pressurized air line to the opposing side so that its pushing air through and out so when you can it pushes the debris out not in.
Please put a fire suppression system, won’t regret it! Love this series and all your videos, would hate for anything to ever happen to one of your awesome builds!
If you look on the shelf you can see the system up there.
Those LED shop light corner cables dangling down.. yeah. Lol
I'm waiting for the Mr. Cool content! Ordered a couple of the same DIY kits for our barn/man cave.
I love the shop banter lol. Get some of Jerry Rig Everythings razor knifes!
If the cooler is literally right in line before the filters, those particles are huge and will be captured no problem in the filter. Run it all day man
You did see him use a carbide burr in those holes to open it up right ?!? That comes off like a fine dust. Would you gamble that the filter will trap all of that ?
Hey taylor, I remember when rich from deboss garage had a scavenge pump for his turbos on his race car he ran into an issue with too little oil in his turbos. You might want to look into your dry sump pump pulling the oil out of the turbo too quickly. I think his solution was a vent of sorts so it would only pull the waste oil and not the oil the turbo was still using.
He notes this about 1:50 in to the video. th-cam.com/video/XZr8mcyyHCU/w-d-xo.html
Hey tailor check this out.!!!!
I cannot wait to see this beast run rings around everyone, just like the LS MX5 did! 👌
Run water with compressed air through the cooler you modified. Youll be surprised at how much more metal will be extracted. Flow water through it while blasting compressed air the same direction through each row. Go back and forth in each direction multiple times.. Trust me, there will be more metal in there, keep the water rolling with it draining into a bucket, the aluminum will sink to the bottom as the water over flows out of the bucket. When you think you're done drain the bucket and redo it until there's no more aluminum sinking to the bottom... Even if you don't use it now at least it's still usable in the future...
Same video maybe...wiring. Did any of the suppliers of the electronics state that attention to grounding for each unit may be crucial. Good chassis grounds are probably a good thing (an understatement) and depending on screw/bolt threads through metal not the best technique. I noted the box/unit on the rear bulkhead is against some thick looking nice paint. Don't know your systems or the the requirements but good grounding is essential.
This has been a great build series thanks!
Finnegan is cool. Rob Dahm also has a great video about wiring.
Looking pretty clean!
Back to finish watching!
That’s the best way to get metal in your engine make sure everything is out of that cooler
Thro an angle bar for vertical support, how heavy is the intercooler
Make a plate that sandwiches between the bash bar mount and it’s mounting surface. Then build off that plate to support the intercooler.
Taylor, are you still gonna try to incorporate the capacitor for the eps pump?
I was about to go to bed. But I'll leave a like and a comment for the algorithm and come back tomorrow to watch it
Taylor , let me preface this by saying I know next to nothing about cars . Except how to drive and put in gas . In regards to the oil cooler , is there a way to run the oil through an oil filter then the cooler without running the oil to the engine ? Sort of like a gravity feed type thing to flush any filings out of the cooler .
Gotta get my therapy dose of jibber jabber build!🤣👍😎