Love watching an old master do his thing Willie seems like a real expert, also like the banter gave me a good chuckle Thanks for passing on the knowledge to young folk myself, Paul.
Great video! These are very educational and helpful! Looking forward to seeing the entire process. From disassembly to installation and firing the engine! Thanks!!!
Paul, you’re up early today. My alarm goes off just before 6am and the first thing I get is a notification that you’ve posted a new video. Great job as always!
ED!!!! Nice to see you this morning. I was up at 05:00 as usual. This video was pre-scheduled, so I had a hot beverage and waited for it to publish and then watched it just like everyone else. I sometimes forget what my own videos are about!
Great info! Watching Willie brings back a lot of memories of helping my uncle rebuild antique tractor engines. Willie’s techniques and information all agree with what my uncle did. Thank you for the trip down memory lane, Paul! Keep the videos coming!
He used to have his niece working there, and she was excellent. Unfortunately, other than shop-hand Jack, I don't think there is anyone "in line" for this.
Very informative from Willie, so thank you Paul. When I was 12 my grandfather and I used the old Palmer Machine Shop to rebuild 4 engines. 2 were from Ford Model A's, 1 from a Ford Model S and one from a 1918 Krit Automobile. Lately I've been rebuilding several old T engines for a collection up north. My pride and joy is my pre 1900 hit and miss motor, which is on a carriage that I move around my property for various jobs.
Paul, thank you so much for this video, without it I would have never known I could get a “FREE” engine rebuild. I can’t wait to meet Willie!!!! 😉 Great video as always!!
Wow!! Twelve thousands taper!! When I was young and starting out, went to South Seattle Community College their mechanics courses in the early 70's, we learned that if there was more than six thousands taper it needed boring. My reason for listening to this entire video was because I was interested in how you put together the mains. There was a machine shop up on Capital Hill in Seattle, "A & W Bearing" who your machinist might be familiar with. At that time (don't think they are in business any more) "A & W Bearing" was the ONLY machine shop on the West Coast that was capable of "pouring" those babbitt bearings. Unfortunately you did not touch on that part of the engine.
I had a shop lined up a year ago to pour some babbit then machine it and let me video the process. At the last minute they got cold feet and backed out. It's a lot more difficult to find people willing to be on video that it should be.
i might have missed it but there seems to be no mention of piston /rod alignment . My pistons in England have FRONT stamped in the top so the split skirt is on the left hand side of the engine when fitted . Could be you were using solid skirt pistons although one segment did seem to show a split skirt not sure as I could not see it at the bottom of the skirt . Great video as usual I use your second "old school " ring compressor the one with the bands around ,works great with my trusty wooden mallet John Charlton
@@ModelA I wish I could drop in but I am about 6000 miles away !!! Ford Barn brought me up to date with current solid skirt pistons I have never seen one and I suppose I will never need one as I have plenty split skirts in the "stores"
I, as one, I'm 78 years old now, but when I was a young boy of 7 years old my dad had me get on a different school bus and I went to where my Dad an grandpa was waiting for me to drive the cletrak cat back and forth to load our GMC army truck with logs....we used a pair of tongs on a cable through a pully on a spar tree, the thing was the cat used to have a six cylinder engine, it went bad for some reason? So my Dad had an adapter made so he could put a model " A " Ford engine and transmission in our cat!!! And let me tell you it worked great. Michael said that, bye for now my friends.
Yes, Lucas! I love using it for how sticky and slippery it is over conventional oils. You touch the stuff and it just spreads everywhere, making everything slippery. A real pain to wipe up without some kind of cleaning agent, but that's what makes it so great. I haven't rebuilt an engine in a long time but I can understand why he uses it on the assembly bench. It is ideally suited to keep an otherwise dry engine protected. My truck sure likes the stuff.
Awesome armadillo hone. And a Sunnen dial bore gage! I Love it! BTW the hone tool is made by Flex Hone, last time I bought one that big they were really proud of it judging by the price 😂😜
Hey Paul, thanks SO much for this video. I'm in Texas, but finding a machine shop willing, or has the time, to do the machining for the Model A engine can be difficult. Good to know Baechler Macine Shop is reliable. God bless!
Very valuable intel for whenever my engine will need a rebuild. This sort of knowledge is incredibly scarce over here - and even those who have a well known name don't necessarily build good motors. If you ever have a chance to visit a babbitting shop, I'd be highly interested in how they cast bearings that last.
As for teflon sticking to the pan, it's more a mechanical thing than a chemical one. The pans are sandblasted first. Teflon seeps into the pores created, it is then polymerized and solidified (melting point over 300 degreed celsius, over 620 degrees Fahrenheit). So, it's true that teflon doesn't "stick" to the pan itself; it's sticks to itself instead, and some of the Teflon is filling up the pores (trapping it there.) Teflon has lots of cohesion (sticking to itself) but very very little adhesion (sticking to other stuff.) Personally, I prefer cast iron skillets that are well seasoned - and pretty darn non-stick when they are. Plus, they last forever.
Are there different length frame and drive shafts for different Model A's? The green truck with high board slat sides looks like it would be a large truck or possibly have a longer bed then a coupe or Tudor
Great video guys.i just pulled down a motor for a new set of rings and noticed that my rod caps have no shims like the ones on your video.i disassembled it carefully and noticed this when I took the nuts off the caps and removed the caps.have you seen this before?
Hey Den. I have seen that on a motor with lots of miles on it where the shims were removed to take up the slack after the babbit wore enough to have too much clearance. That's what they're for.
Willie was instructed to rebuild the engine in this manner. I was disappointed that the engine was “re-ringed” with 0.010 tapered cylinders. Appropriate for a low use, parade car. Next owner that opens up the engine maybe surprised and could disapprove. 31 45B
You missed the back story on this. This motor is from and went back into a car that will probably never see the road again, is a family keepsake and they have NO money for it. Willie did me a favor and put this together for free, the car runs again and it sitting in a garage and never driven. So, before judging Willie or me, it helps to know the whole story. That video is easily found on my channel. Your "disappointment" should be joy that this lady's dad's car is again together and runs. Better than the way it was. And it didn't cost her a dime.
Good informative video. I was waiting until your buddy to answer your question about the lineup of the rod nuts for the safety wire. The answer didn’t come. I am still wondering. Do you torque more or back off a bit?
@@ModelA Thanks Paul for your quick reply. A friend and I were discussing the use of inserts and oil oil pumps. I am going with inserts and he’s on the fence.😀
I can't tell which way the bevel was on the ring with the dot. Bevel up, or bevel down? I will be rebuilding for the first time in a couple of weeks, finishing a project someone else started. Not really sure what I'm getting myself in to. HELP!!!
So much knowledge shame when we die its lost should have a usb port in back of our heads to down load as we pass did my engine in 94 just using the red bible started first crank shocked myself
According to Webster's, a motor can be an electric or internal combustion source of rotational power. Umm... It's a motor. Even Ford's parts book calls it a motor.
Good informative video. I was waiting until your buddy to answer your question about the lineup of the rod nuts for the safety wire. The answer didn’t come. I am still wondering. Do you torque more or back off a bit?
Good to have you back Paul, hope your health is fine again
It got worse first. Next week's video, I look like garbage and come clean about my near death hospital stay. A departure from the usual stuff I do.
It looks like Willie made most of his engine building mistakes years ago. That's the kind of mechanic you want to hire!
Yes! Willie is absolutely the best
Love watching an old master do his thing Willie seems like a real expert, also like the banter gave me a good chuckle
Thanks for passing on the knowledge to young folk myself, Paul.
Thanks I love to watch people that know what they are doing and a nice man to,
Willie is the best
I love Willie!! What a great personality and great teacher of his lifetime of acquired knowledge and skills. Great video Paul. TY
Willie is the BEST!!
Enjoy watching rebuilding Ford Model A engine! 😘😀 Mike from Missouri
Thanks Mike!
Thank you. Always enjoy your videos. Gosh, there’s is a lot of great people in this Model A community.
Thanks for sharing.
Yes there is!!
Great video! These are very educational and helpful! Looking forward to seeing the entire process. From disassembly to installation and firing the engine! Thanks!!!
Paul, you’re up early today. My alarm goes off just before 6am and the first thing I get is a notification that you’ve posted a new video. Great job as always!
ED!!!! Nice to see you this morning. I was up at 05:00 as usual. This video was pre-scheduled, so I had a hot beverage and waited for it to publish and then watched it just like everyone else. I sometimes forget what my own videos are about!
Hey Ed... When do we find out if you won?
Ed saw your film last night on Netflix Hope you got paid, Paul's too cheap to pay Tina to appear in his videos.
@@mackfisher4487 That's a fact
So when Willy retires you gonna take his place. Fun vid.
I don't know 1% of what Willie knows. If Willie retires, I have no idea what we will do.
@@ModelA Study up!
Great info! Watching Willie brings back a lot of memories of helping my uncle rebuild antique tractor engines. Willie’s techniques and information all agree with what my uncle did. Thank you for the trip down memory lane, Paul! Keep the videos coming!
Thanks Matt!
Great video as always Paul. Where is Willie's young apprentice that one day will get the torch passed to?
He used to have his niece working there, and she was excellent. Unfortunately, other than shop-hand Jack, I don't think there is anyone "in line" for this.
Very informative from Willie, so thank you Paul. When I was 12 my grandfather and I used the old Palmer Machine Shop to rebuild 4 engines. 2 were from Ford Model A's, 1 from a Ford Model S and one from a 1918 Krit Automobile. Lately I've been rebuilding several old T engines for a collection up north. My pride and joy is my pre 1900 hit and miss motor, which is on a carriage that I move around my property for various jobs.
Very cool!
Paul, thank you so much for this video, without it I would have never known I could get a “FREE” engine rebuild. I can’t wait to meet Willie!!!! 😉
Great video as always!!
I really enjoyed watching you and Willie interact. Thanks for the video and take care of yourself Paul! Have a wonderful week!
Wow!! Twelve thousands taper!! When I was young and starting out, went to South Seattle Community College their mechanics courses in the early 70's, we learned that if there was more than six thousands taper it needed boring.
My reason for listening to this entire video was because I was interested in how you put together the mains. There was a machine shop up on Capital Hill in Seattle, "A & W Bearing" who your machinist might be familiar with. At that time (don't think they are in business any more) "A & W Bearing" was the ONLY machine shop on the West Coast that was capable of "pouring" those babbitt bearings. Unfortunately you did not touch on that part of the engine.
I had a shop lined up a year ago to pour some babbit then machine it and let me video the process. At the last minute they got cold feet and backed out. It's a lot more difficult to find people willing to be on video that it should be.
Thanks for the informative video. Have a great week.
i might have missed it but there seems to be no mention of piston /rod alignment . My pistons in England have FRONT stamped in the top so the split skirt is on the left hand side of the engine when fitted . Could be you were using solid skirt pistons although one segment did seem to show a split skirt not sure as I could not see it at the bottom of the skirt . Great video as usual I use your second "old school " ring compressor the one with the bands around ,works great with my trusty wooden mallet
John Charlton
You should drop in and watch Willie assemble a motor. Beyond a certain unknown knowledge level, things just magically happen.
@@ModelA I wish I could drop in but I am about 6000 miles away !!! Ford Barn brought me up to date with current solid skirt pistons I have never seen one and I suppose I will never need one as I have plenty split skirts in the "stores"
I, as one, I'm 78 years old now, but when I was a young boy of 7 years old my dad had me get on a different school bus and I went to where my Dad an grandpa was waiting for me to drive the cletrak cat back and forth to load our GMC army truck with logs....we used a pair of tongs on a cable through a pully on a spar tree, the thing was the cat used to have a six cylinder engine, it went bad for some reason? So my Dad had an adapter made so he could put a model " A " Ford engine and transmission in our cat!!! And let me tell you it worked great. Michael said that, bye for now my friends.
Wow. Thanks for sharing!
Yes, Lucas! I love using it for how sticky and slippery it is over conventional oils.
You touch the stuff and it just spreads everywhere, making everything slippery. A real pain to wipe up without some kind of cleaning agent, but that's what makes it so great.
I haven't rebuilt an engine in a long time but I can understand why he uses it on the assembly bench. It is ideally suited to keep an otherwise dry engine protected.
My truck sure likes the stuff.
Great video as always, my next Google is about non stick pans! 👍
Hahaa! Hint- It's a mechanical bond
Fascinating video congratulations from Aotearoa New Zealand 🇳🇿
Thank you!
I can't say I understand much of what's going on here, but Mr. Willie seems to know what he's doing 😊
Watching Willie assemble a Model A motor is like watching Chef Gordon Ramsay put together a risotto.
@@ModelA I agree and I know more about risotto than motors ☺️
Awesome armadillo hone. And a Sunnen dial bore gage! I Love it! BTW the hone tool is made by Flex Hone, last time I bought one that big they were really proud of it judging by the price 😂😜
Just found your channel, love this stuff, I used to be backyard mechanic, especially engine rebuilds. You have a new sub!
Thanks for the sub Randy!
Once again great video !
Willie sure makes it look simple !
Willie is the BEST!
Hey Paul, thanks SO much for this video. I'm in Texas, but finding a machine shop willing, or has the time, to do the machining for the Model A engine can be difficult. Good to know Baechler Macine Shop is reliable. God bless!
You could always crate it up and ship it out to Willy. God bless
Parabéns pelo excelente trabalho e Professor! Sucesso Sr Paulo.
Very valuable intel for whenever my engine will need a rebuild. This sort of knowledge is incredibly scarce over here - and even those who have a well known name don't necessarily build good motors.
If you ever have a chance to visit a babbitting shop, I'd be highly interested in how they cast bearings that last.
He does babbit also
"Nuts and boobs at the same time"!?! I laughed so loud at that I scared my little dog! ROFL!!
As for teflon sticking to the pan, it's more a mechanical thing than a chemical one. The pans are sandblasted first. Teflon seeps into the pores created, it is then polymerized and solidified (melting point over 300 degreed celsius, over 620 degrees Fahrenheit). So, it's true that teflon doesn't "stick" to the pan itself; it's sticks to itself instead, and some of the Teflon is filling up the pores (trapping it there.) Teflon has lots of cohesion (sticking to itself) but very very little adhesion (sticking to other stuff.) Personally, I prefer cast iron skillets that are well seasoned - and pretty darn non-stick when they are. Plus, they last forever.
Paul, good video. One question, did Willie put the cotter pins in the cap nuts?
No, I did later.
Educational and entertaining, even for us "non-boomers".
Thanks Doc!
Double A truck...Wow ...correction WOW!!! yours?
@@ModelA Wouldn't that be spelled Bbooger ? 4 or 8 cyl?
Paul what’s the best lube for the gear box/trans that won’t lug the car down however slow the gear down fast enough to aid in shifting?
Were the rod bearing clearances previously checked?
Yes. That's how we knew what shims to use.
I love this; awesome work!
Thank you so much!
Are there different length frame and drive shafts for different Model A's? The green truck with high board slat sides looks like it would be a large truck or possibly have a longer bed then a coupe or Tudor
You spoke of cotter pins thru the connecting rod -cap nuts. Did the last cop nuts you torqued on get the cotter pins? Great stuff!
I put the cotters in later.
@@ModelA Got it! Thanks
Great video guys.i just pulled down a motor for a new set of rings and noticed that my rod caps have no shims like the ones on your video.i disassembled it carefully and noticed this when I took the nuts off the caps and removed the caps.have you seen this before?
Hey Den. I have seen that on a motor with lots of miles on it where the shims were removed to take up the slack after the babbit wore enough to have too much clearance. That's what they're for.
@@ModelA makes sense. Thanks for the reply Paul. I'm gonna put it all back together and see how it goes 😏
Willie was instructed to rebuild the engine in this manner. I was disappointed that the engine was “re-ringed” with 0.010 tapered cylinders. Appropriate for a low use, parade car. Next owner that opens up the engine maybe surprised and could disapprove. 31 45B
You missed the back story on this. This motor is from and went back into a car that will probably never see the road again, is a family keepsake and they have NO money for it. Willie did me a favor and put this together for free, the car runs again and it sitting in a garage and never driven. So, before judging Willie or me, it helps to know the whole story. That video is easily found on my channel. Your "disappointment" should be joy that this lady's dad's car is again together and runs. Better than the way it was. And it didn't cost her a dime.
Good informative video. I was waiting until your buddy to answer your question about the lineup of the rod nuts for the safety wire. The answer didn’t come. I am still wondering. Do you torque more or back off a bit?
I torque to spec. then look and see which way it needs to go to get the pin in. If it's 50/50, I replace the nut.
That was great
Paul,
Does Willy also install con rod and main bearings for the Model A engine?
He does complete turn-key motors if that is what you request. He does it all. And does it well!
How about a video on finding a Model A Ford!!?
Did one already
Paul as always very interesting video. Coffee was not quite as good as the presentation. I wish I wasn’t so far from this guy.
Lecil
Thanks Lecil!
dose he pour his own Babbitt ?
Yes
Can you recommend a good repair manual for a new owner?
Sure! www.mafca.com/cart/index.php?productID=166
@@ModelA thanks, will order one
Your Model A’s that have full insert bearings, do use a high pressure oil pump?
No, just the stock one.
@@ModelA Thanks Paul for your quick reply. A friend and I were discussing the use of inserts and oil oil pumps. I am going with inserts and he’s on the fence.😀
Correction- My Sport Coupe does have a slightly modified oil pump. I forgot.
Are the pistons made out of cast iron?
Aluminum
I’m looking for a Model A parts catalog in print. Any recommendations?
Brattons and Snyder’s.
So it's working like a lawnmower to get oil to the rods
Hi Paul , just a little question, are both valves exactly the same on a model A? Intake and exhaust? Thanks again
Same. You just set them differently is all. 11 thou for intake and 13 thou for exhaust
@@ModelA thanks Paul! Always so helpful 🙏
FOUR thou per inch. And many modern ring sets come with 5-6 thou.
I ran out of curse words rebuilding a piece of equipment that seemed to have about a thousand of those circlips
I had to start inventing new ones.
Bwahahaa!! Like the dad in Christmas Story!
I can't tell which way the bevel was on the ring with the dot. Bevel up, or bevel down? I will be rebuilding for the first time in a couple of weeks, finishing a project someone else started. Not really sure what I'm getting myself in to. HELP!!!
The ring with the dot and bevel is the 2nd ring, not the top ring. The dot faces UP, the bevel goes toward the crank (down).
@ModelA Thanks
The scupper faces the cam shaft
Wow
Does he pour the babbitts,or someone else,if he does I would like to see the process,very good video,thanks.
Yes he does. If you want to watch, you have to show up in person.
@@ModelA i live in kansas so probably wont get there in person,love your vids,and thanks for the reply.
So much knowledge shame when we die its lost should have a usb port in back of our heads to down load as we pass did my engine in 94 just using the red bible started first crank shocked myself
Assembly lube and or STP motor honey
ten thou seems like a lot of taper even for model a engine?
Nah
Ok
Teflon glue..
Hahaaa!!!
He forgot to cotter pin the nuts on the connecting rod for the one he put in #4
I did all of them, no worries.
Please get rid of the word "motor". It's an engine....there's a big difference. A motor requires external power. An engine creates its own power.
According to Webster's, a motor can be an electric or internal combustion source of rotational power. Umm... It's a motor. Even Ford's parts book calls it a motor.
@@ModelA Seems the name of the company is Ford MOTOR Company too.
@@jackjohnson6339 YES! That's right!! I didn't even think of that!!
Good informative video. I was waiting until your buddy to answer your question about the lineup of the rod nuts for the safety wire. The answer didn’t come. I am still wondering. Do you torque more or back off a bit?
Torque. Then back off.