I had hoped you would describe how to shim up the crank. Do you put shims behind the drive side main bearing or between the bearing and the crankshaft?
Seems to be moving very freely, you sure the crank isn't broken ? I know when i was checking mine, i had a job to get the crank to move in the bearings. An end feed conversion is the way to go on these, does away with bushes and shims and all that carry-on.
Sorry, but I only rebuilt the bottom end, I didn't rebuild the top end, the owner did it to save some money, but I recall one valve guide and the piston rings were changed, as well as various gaskets and seals.
@@MrCambsguy If it's filling up when the bike is left standing, then there should be a one-way valve in the scavenge side oil pipe somewhere. It's probably a ball bearing in a tube. Re seat it with a hammer tap if that's the case.
There is a shoulder on the crank which passes through and beyond the main bearing, a spacer butts up to this and then the engine sprocket butts up to that, so the crank would be able to float in any case, were it not for the internal shimming.
I hope the owner will fix it. Its so pretty. Thanks Paul.
Give us a real treat Paul , video the strip down and rebuild
Congratulations 👏 Paul
Beautiful classic bykes..I wish I would have the expertise and time to service them 😊
I had hoped you would describe how to shim up the crank. Do you put shims behind the drive side main bearing or between the bearing and the crankshaft?
Seems to be moving very freely, you sure the crank isn't broken ? I know when i was checking mine, i had a job to get the crank to move in the bearings. An end feed conversion is the way to go on these, does away with bushes and shims and all that carry-on.
In the next video, I ride it about 8 miles, so the crank is definitely not broken. It even sounds ok, rather strangely.
Are there oil return, to the sump, holes in the vicinity of the oil pump? Or is the oil return to tank inlet right there at the pump?
Not sure. Investigations are ongoing at present ...
Paul, I have an A10 and having identical oil leak problem, did you find out what the leak was?
Sorry, but I only rebuilt the bottom end, I didn't rebuild the top end, the owner did it to save some money, but I recall one valve guide and the piston rings were changed, as well as various gaskets and seals.
@@paulhenshaw4514 thanks Paul for responding, I was referring to the problem of the oil leak in the dynamo casing, my is leaking into this too?
@@MrCambsguy If it's filling up when the bike is left standing, then there should be a one-way valve in the scavenge side oil pipe somewhere. It's probably a ball bearing in a tube. Re seat it with a hammer tap if that's the case.
Doesn't the cush drive spring hold the crankshaft to one side. How can you pull it backwards and forwards against the strength of the spring.
There is a shoulder on the crank which passes through and beyond the main bearing, a spacer butts up to this and then the engine sprocket butts up to that, so the crank would be able to float in any case, were it not for the internal shimming.
Paul, where are you bud, I need m21 gearbox looking at.Thnak you
I am in Carmarthenshire, near Llandovery.
Paul take the sump plate off, you might find some shins in the sump
Is that an original BSA colour?
I don't know, it is not one I am familiar with.
Hi Paul, quiet difference with royal Enfield?
Yes, very different to a Bullet, but similar to the RE '500 Twin'.