To all the chaps, old G clamps can be picked up cheaply at car boot sales. The old ones are a world away from the cheap Chinese ones. We saw in the video the Chinese one was bending on the thread, the tommy bar bend and the end cap fell off. It was new! A good old slightly rusty original won't have any of these problems. Second tip. Use a bit of masking tape to hold sockets to the G clamp, it doesn't have to be strong, it is just a third hand.
Pretty good videos. I only have two comments. For maximum strength the spider should be fitted with the zerk fitting is under compression when driving. The front output on the LT-230 rotates anti-clockwise so it appears (looking at the 6:35 mark) that the zerk is fitted in the correct location. Assuming it is, I don't know if it was luck or intentional, since it wasn't mentioned. I can't see the transfer case end well enough to say. Also it should be mentioned that when greasing u-joints you should always see NEW grease coming from around all 4 seals on each u-joint. This flushes any contaminants out of the needle bearings. Ah, one other thing, well done greasing it after assembly. Too many people don't, not realizing the grease that comes in them is just for factory assembly and as a rust preventative. It's not for in service use.
Thank you Mr! Some great stuff you'd upload on TH-cam. Very usefull with the restoration of my Series III 109'! Wish you was my neighbour haha. All the best and I will stay tuned.
Chris Great vid, just replaced a uj and all the caps are equally pressed in so the curclips could be fitted, but when greasing the new joint only two of the caps are expelling excess grease, is this a problem ? Will it square up after fitting and being spun whilat dring so all caps expel grease ? Regards Russell
I have a 1999 disco 2 and even though I've removed all the nuts and bolts there is no slider on my prop shaft and I can't get it out past the 4 exposed threads
To all the chaps, old G clamps can be picked up cheaply at car boot sales.
The old ones are a world away from the cheap Chinese ones. We saw in the video the Chinese one was bending on the thread, the tommy bar bend and the end cap fell off. It was new!
A good old slightly rusty original won't have any of these problems.
Second tip. Use a bit of masking tape to hold sockets to the G clamp, it doesn't have to be strong, it is just a third hand.
Pretty good videos. I only have two comments.
For maximum strength the spider should be fitted with the zerk fitting is under compression when driving. The front output on the LT-230 rotates anti-clockwise so it appears (looking at the 6:35 mark) that the zerk is fitted in the correct location. Assuming it is, I don't know if it was luck or intentional, since it wasn't mentioned. I can't see the transfer case end well enough to say.
Also it should be mentioned that when greasing u-joints you should always see NEW grease coming from around all 4 seals on each u-joint. This flushes any contaminants out of the needle bearings.
Ah, one other thing, well done greasing it after assembly. Too many people don't, not realizing the grease that comes in them is just for factory assembly and as a rust preventative. It's not for in service use.
Thank you Mr!
Some great stuff you'd upload on TH-cam. Very usefull with the restoration of my Series III 109'! Wish you was my neighbour haha. All the best and I will stay tuned.
+Jan Dotes You Tube videos is much better than being neighbours. ! All the best with your restoration.
Replaced the u joint closest to the transmission but am now getting vibrations and sounds similar to when it was broken.
Great tutorial series. Thanks. I'm getting ready to rebuild my front D2 driveshaft.
Great easy to follow videos :) What grease did you use? I've got Rocol Sapphire 2 EP bearing grease.... any good? Thanks.
Yes. EP2 Lithium based multipurpose grease is good for the job. Grease well and often.
Great video, thanks! I didn't know about using a chisel to seat the circlips properly, good tip.
Glad you like it. I learn stuff all the time from my work colleagues. I love passing them on.
Chris
Great vid, just replaced a uj and all the caps are equally pressed in so the curclips could be fitted, but when greasing the new joint only two of the caps are expelling excess grease, is this a problem ? Will it square up after fitting and being spun whilat dring so all caps expel grease ?
Regards Russell
thanks a few tips on propshaft was something i did not know but on rebuilding a s3 all info is welcome thanks ..
You're welcome. Universal joint is indeed universal... found on many "traditional" vehicles. Good luck withe the S111
My next job on my daughters Freelander TD4....then replace the VCU etc etc..
I have a 1999 disco 2 and even though I've removed all the nuts and bolts there is no slider on my prop shaft and I can't get it out past the 4 exposed threads
Fantastic
Bons vídeos boas explicações ,bom trabalho 👍
Great videos and very helpful but it is a G-Clamp, not a G-Cramp LOL
Perry Gamsby Okay i stand corrected. :)
+Perry Gamsby He did say they were Chinese. ;)
+mad1336 We use the English Language slightly different here in Norfolk UK>