hi amazing series always something to learn .could you help me with the problem of inserting the drive shaft into the cv joint with the circlip fitted on my rrc regards ie always viewing
Hi, great series, thank you for the time and effort you have put into these videos. One question I would like to ask please, is it worth replacing the needle roller bearings in the stub axle during an axle overhaul? Many Thanks James
Shame to have to return those ashcroft parts ... But cracking comparisons and explanations ... Again... I've learned something and that makes watching your videos invaluable... :o)
***** That's one main course of 'eek' !! You'll never need them if you respect the truck... Common sense doesn't usually require more than standard gear to get you out of a tough situation... oh and always have diff lock selected if you think it's going to happen... wonder where I've heard that one ;o)
Really enjoy these videos especially seeing as in the next couple of weeks it's my turn to redo swivels, quick question though, if I have the one shot grease then it isn't necessary for cv grease or am I mistaken?
I have a impressive amount of slop between the turning of a front wheel and the prop flange moving on the diff, I would say the wheel will move almost 1/4 turn before the flange will. Is that much likey to be the CVJs ect or must it be the diff? Discovery 1
Thanks for your amazing video series!!!! When ive re-inserted the drivers 1/2 shaft on my 110 it moves fine until i torque up the stub axle then movement is about 1/4 of the wheels lock side to side....any idea why??? its driving me mad! Thanks
Just a thought on using torque wrenches, the nut/ bolt must be able to move freely before finally tightening with a torque wrench .I have seen bolts done up so tight that the torque wrench clicks straight away , therefore the nut/ bolt could already be over tightened
Hiya mate, can you answer a question for me please. When reading up about locking hubs for l/rs some say that if you run in freewheel for 100 miles or so that you must lock the hubs and run like that for a while in order for splash to lubricate the steering bearings. But to my mind the halfshafts and therefore the c/v joints are still turning in freewheel mode they`re just not connected to the hubs and therefore are still lubricating the bearings. What is your take on this?
If you mean the old series 3 axles that were part time drive then it would be an idea to occasionally engage the freewheeling hubs and get some juices running around. . Series 3 front axles don't have CVs do they? Just Hardy Spicer joints so yes getting some splash lubrication as prescribed in the manual is the way to go I would have thought.
Thanks for your thoughts but even if the freewheeling hubs are disconnected arn`t they just disconnected from the hubs and don`t they still rotate as they are driven by the centre diff thus causing the needed splash?
Ah. depends on which gearbox you have. The series was part time 4x4 meaning you had to lock the front axle to the transfer-box unlike the later LT77s which were permanent 4x4 because it has a diff in the transfer-box . If you have the original series gearbox, the flanges on the hub just turned the 1/2 shafts, diff and prop' shaft. With the freewheeling hubs, nothing is being driven. Thus only the hubs rotate when the vehicle is being driven, Everything up to the transfer box is stationary. Locking the hubs means all is rotating up to the transfer-box output flange. This will let the crown wheel thrash about in the oil and push some oil towards the hubs to lube the bearings. Joints in the swivel housings are separate so the UJs when turning will lube the raillco bushes. Idea was to reduce wear on the front axle when not locked into 4 wheel drive. There is no need for freewheeling hubs on permanent 4x4. If you have freewheeling hubs on a Defender 110/90 / RRC transmission system you'd need to lock the diff in the transfer-box to get some sort of drive. Hope this makes sense?
hi amazing series always something to learn .could you help me with the problem of inserting the drive shaft into the cv joint with the circlip fitted on my rrc regards ie always viewing
Hi, great series, thank you for the time and effort you have put into these videos. One question I would like to ask please, is it worth replacing the needle roller bearings in the stub axle during an axle overhaul? Many Thanks James
Hello . I just wonder if joint splines should be greased?
Great vid. Thanks! It's helpful to see part/model variations for comparison.
@Trey Jameson Why would I want your GFs Instagram pw?
Shame to have to return those ashcroft parts ... But cracking comparisons and explanations ... Again... I've learned something and that makes watching your videos invaluable... :o)
Price on those CV joints would almost pay for a recon gearbox...
*****
That's one main course of 'eek' !! You'll never need them if you respect the truck... Common sense doesn't usually require more than standard gear to get you out of a tough situation... oh and always have diff lock selected if you think it's going to happen... wonder where I've heard that one ;o)
Matt Allen would you ay the same thing if you could afford them?
Really enjoy these videos especially seeing as in the next couple of weeks it's my turn to redo swivels, quick question though, if I have the one shot grease then it isn't necessary for cv grease or am I mistaken?
I have a impressive amount of slop between the turning of a front wheel and the prop flange moving on the diff, I would say the wheel will move almost 1/4 turn before the flange will.
Is that much likey to be the CVJs ect or must it be the diff? Discovery 1
Thanks for your amazing video series!!!! When ive re-inserted the drivers 1/2 shaft on my 110 it moves fine until i torque up the stub axle then movement is about 1/4 of the wheels lock side to side....any idea why??? its driving me mad! Thanks
Another great video, thanks!
cheers.
Is that outer stub shaft replaceable, or is it an integral part of the CV cup?
Lovely Vlog 👌 helps me know more about my puma!
I've a few more videos about the puma mixed in with the UK trailer technician Videos and there is a playlist too on the channel front page
Thank you
thanks
Just a thought on using torque wrenches, the nut/ bolt must be able to move freely before finally tightening with a torque wrench .I have seen bolts done up so tight that the torque wrench clicks straight away , therefore the nut/ bolt could already be over tightened
Moly bendium ---- priceless :-)
Hiya mate, can you answer a question for me please. When reading up about locking hubs for l/rs some say that if you run in freewheel for 100 miles or so that you must lock the hubs and run like that for a while in order for splash to lubricate the steering bearings. But to my mind the halfshafts and therefore the c/v joints are still turning in freewheel mode they`re just not connected to the hubs and therefore are still lubricating the bearings. What is your take on this?
If you mean the old series 3 axles that were part time drive then it would be an idea to occasionally engage the freewheeling hubs and get some juices running around. . Series 3 front axles don't have CVs do they? Just Hardy Spicer joints so yes getting some splash lubrication as prescribed in the manual is the way to go I would have thought.
Thanks for your thoughts but even if the freewheeling hubs are disconnected arn`t they just disconnected from the hubs and don`t they still rotate as they are driven by the centre diff thus causing the needed splash?
Ah. depends on which gearbox you have. The series was part time 4x4 meaning you had to lock the front axle to the transfer-box unlike the later LT77s which were permanent 4x4 because it has a diff in the transfer-box . If you have the original series gearbox, the flanges on the hub just turned the 1/2 shafts, diff and prop' shaft. With the freewheeling hubs, nothing is being driven. Thus only the hubs rotate when the vehicle is being driven, Everything up to the transfer box is stationary. Locking the hubs means all is rotating up to the transfer-box output flange. This will let the crown wheel thrash about in the oil and push some oil towards the hubs to lube the bearings. Joints in the swivel housings are separate so the UJs when turning will lube the raillco bushes.
Idea was to reduce wear on the front axle when not locked into 4 wheel drive.
There is no need for freewheeling hubs on permanent 4x4. If you have freewheeling hubs on a Defender 110/90 / RRC transmission system you'd need to lock the diff in the transfer-box to get some sort of drive. Hope this makes sense?
Can you tell me the part number for the halfshaft end float shims/washers please , having real issue trying to get these
rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FRC6782?scid=scplpFRC6782&sc_intid=FRC6782&gclid=Cj0KCQiAzfrTBRC_ARIsAJ5ps0tSSyWXp11-z3S0bNob7JYsRnJLwnCVtKE05hZ7nLPWeewelIA_Ju0aAqTZEALw_wcB
www.paddockspares.com/frc6782-shim.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAzfrTBRC_ARIsAJ5ps0uJUnh3mnH91qacm7ODHWPKJlutqt7czMnnX27FvisR0p4IqVZgIhkaAqtyEALw_wcB