When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Hedgehog Featherboards: amzn.to/3b4KcVl Video about choosing the right router► th-cam.com/video/_1NNk8p8ca4/w-d-xo.html
We needed to know the RPM's for each of the speed settings for the trim router we used for the CNC we built at our makerspace. I mounted a 1/4 " bit with a piece of tape that slapped against a playing card and used a free guitar tuning app called "G-String" to measure the frequency (rotations per second) and divided by 60 to get RPM (rotations per minute). From there, we were able to use the ideal feed and speed formula to get much better cuts.
If your router has a single digit scale on the speed dial, check the documentation. If you can't find a chart, you should at least be able to find minimum and maximum speeds. The dial will change the speed at a constant rate, so even with just min/max information, you can extrapolate the setting needed for your desired speed. I'd consider marking or labeling the body of the router with the speed range so you don't have to look it up every time.
I'm building a pair of Tower Speakers from Red Oak. Close tolerance cabinetry and using a router are not my strong suit. Your videos are a great help. Thanks for the video! "I'll be back". Router On! : )
I just been learning about speed with the drill press and different diameter bits, and speed for types of bits, like Forstner bits . And I am just now learning to use our 3 routers. one of them is older and does not have the variable speed and is installed in the router table. So I appreciate the discussion. Thumbs up, as usual!
@Stumpy Nubs. Thanks James for the tips. Straight and Hope to the point. Another tip is to keep scraps of wood just for this purpose. Spouses tend to look at scraps as trash instead of pieces worthy of recycling. We just don't know when we may need them. Hope you and your family stay safe and well.
Btw at about 0:56, it’s “centripetal” force not centrifugal force. Centripetal means “center-seeking” and is the force that pulls the material towards the center at the same time it’s moving tangent, effectively meaning it goes “around”. Centrifugal is not an actual force. It’s the apparent push outwards from the center that an object feels when moving in an arc. It comes from the object having mass and thus inertia, which means it wants to remain moving in a straight line. The faster the rotation, the larger the centripetal force required and if the bit can’t handle it structurally, then it breaks. Cheers!
Thanks very much. I did not know about those larger bits but have not used them. I have found that running most bits at lower speeds is a good idea and gives smoother, burn free operation. I have also found, for cherry as an example, running low speed, shallow depth passes allow me to trim out designs that otherwise tear out the wood. As you said at the end, check it out on scrap first.
This is sage advice. I was scorching my panel ogee edge profiles until I ran my old single speed router through my even older Dremel speed controller (both rated at 5 amps). I like knowing why some things work and some things don't. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Good advice. Actually the first time I have seen this mentioned online. I have had a handmade chart very similar to the one you showed taped to my table ever since I got my router. Thank you for all you do and keep up the good work.
Stumpy I love your videos and all your valuable info you give us. “Truly” Can I ask why you don’t do very many build videos where your making a project? And I apologize if you have already covered this. But again thanks for the info and videos. Have a good day 👍
I am always nervous with big bits. I always use a remote speed control which allows me to turn the router off from a distance as well. I go by the sound and cut quality rather than knowing rpm. Nice video Frank
Any good router lists it's maximum variable speed on it's manufacturer label or website. Take that number & divide by the max number of levels on the adjustment dial (ie 25,000÷10=2,500). Then take that number and multiply it by each level (2,500×5=12,500). This will give you a close approximate speed for each level. Still test like stated in the video for vibrations, etc before plowing into that expensive exotic wood! 👍
Any recommendations on external speed control/rheostat for a router table so you don’t have to pull the motor out or open the door every time you want to change speeds? I heard some of the external ones can burn up your motor. Thanks!
Very helpful. Thank you. I like the Hedgehog Featherboards. I used. your link but it seems it only works on a miter slot, my router table uses a T-slot. Is there another weatherboard that works as well. I do use them but the Hedgehog looks better.
I have a straight bit that vibrates as I increase the speed until I get beyond a certain speed, and then it's smooth sailing. How should we determine optimal rotational speed in the case of a bit that has resonance induced vibration at lower rpms? (BTW the bit in question is 3" long, but perhaps 3/4 inch diameter....I use it for "jointing' small pieces)
hello sir! i am making a diy router table, I bought online a 1/2" chank, 3.5-inch panel raiser bit and ER16A Collet Chuck Motor Shaft Extension Rod C20-ER16-40L but i have only 1/2hp 3400rpm motor, do you think it will work?
My router goes to 11. (Ha!) Thanks for the tips. Speed counts also on the drill press, lathes, and track saws to name a few. It's worth taking the time to make the adjustment.
Sometimes Stumpy scares me! I was just this morning talking to someone about slowing the speed down on a router for bigger bits. Sure enough he posted a video just about that. In his video I was thinking I liked the looks of those feather boards. I know I've seen them but where? Sure enough he posted a link right to them.
I love those featherboards. I know folks will say "you're just saying that" but it's true. I was a fan before they were a sponsor. That's how it works, first I find tools I like, THEN I seek them out as channel supporters.
Bought a hedgehog feather board after watching your videos, and it won’t hold tight enough in the miter slots on table saw or router table. It just moves with the work piece no matter how I set it up. Anyone else have the same problem? Maybe I just got a bad apple because I’ve heard good things for the most part.
Every featherboard or locking table saw fixture I have doesn't work well with my Sawstop saws unless I add a strip or two of foil tape to the side of the piece that locks in the slot. Doesn't matter the brand or the jig, Sawstop saw slots (at least the one I have) are slightly wider than standard. Perhaps your saw is the same. Add a strip of foil tape. Problem solved.
Hey Andrew. There's usually a simple fix for that: 1. Tighten the knob much more than you normally would to flare out the miter clamp a little. That usually loosens things up. 2. If that doesn't help, flare the miter clamp out a little by inserting the tip of a flat blade into the slot and giving it a twist. If you still have problems, please contact me via my website at www.featherboards.com.
What type of rotary tool? You mean like a Dremel? The principal applies to any spinning bit. Forstner bits at the drill press, for example, will generate excess heat and dull quickly if you don't slow the larger ones down.
When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us►
Hedgehog Featherboards: amzn.to/3b4KcVl
Video about choosing the right router► th-cam.com/video/_1NNk8p8ca4/w-d-xo.html
Can’t get the “Hedgehog” into Australia ☹️ must be a bio-Secuirty issue 🤷🏻♂️
@@geoffbrumpton8544 Hey, check with Carbatec - they've got them!
We needed to know the RPM's for each of the speed settings for the trim router we used for the CNC we built at our makerspace. I mounted a 1/4 " bit with a piece of tape that slapped against a playing card and used a free guitar tuning app called "G-String" to measure the frequency (rotations per second) and divided by 60 to get RPM (rotations per minute). From there, we were able to use the ideal feed and speed formula to get much better cuts.
Did you mean multiply by 60?
@@johnhaller5851 yes
If your router has a single digit scale on the speed dial, check the documentation. If you can't find a chart, you should at least be able to find minimum and maximum speeds. The dial will change the speed at a constant rate, so even with just min/max information, you can extrapolate the setting needed for your desired speed. I'd consider marking or labeling the body of the router with the speed range so you don't have to look it up every time.
No need to see other videos (at the moment) +Subscribe. This looks like a worthwhile channel.
I'm building a pair of Tower Speakers from Red Oak. Close tolerance cabinetry and using a router are not my strong suit. Your videos are a great help. Thanks for the video! "I'll be back". Router On! : )
I just been learning about speed with the drill press and different diameter bits, and speed for types of bits, like Forstner bits . And I am just now learning to use our 3 routers. one of them is older and does not have the variable speed and is installed in the router table. So I appreciate the discussion. Thumbs up, as usual!
@Stumpy Nubs. Thanks James for the tips. Straight and Hope to the point. Another tip is to keep scraps of wood just for this purpose. Spouses tend to look at scraps as trash instead of pieces worthy of recycling. We just don't know when we may need them.
Hope you and your family stay safe and well.
Btw at about 0:56, it’s “centripetal” force not centrifugal force. Centripetal means “center-seeking” and is the force that pulls the material towards the center at the same time it’s moving tangent, effectively meaning it goes “around”. Centrifugal is not an actual force. It’s the apparent push outwards from the center that an object feels when moving in an arc. It comes from the object having mass and thus inertia, which means it wants to remain moving in a straight line. The faster the rotation, the larger the centripetal force required and if the bit can’t handle it structurally, then it breaks. Cheers!
Thanks very much. I did not know about those larger bits but have not used them. I have found that running most bits at lower speeds is a good idea and gives smoother, burn free operation. I have also found, for cherry as an example, running low speed, shallow depth passes allow me to trim out designs that otherwise tear out the wood. As you said at the end, check it out on scrap first.
This is sage advice. I was scorching my panel ogee edge profiles until I ran my old single speed router through my even older Dremel speed controller (both rated at 5 amps). I like knowing why some things work and some things don't. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Good advice. Actually the first time I have seen this mentioned online. I have had a handmade chart very similar to the one you showed taped to my table ever since I got my router. Thank you for all you do and keep up the good work.
I always enjoy your videos, James, but this one is especially helpful for me. Thank you!
Stumpy I love your videos and all your valuable info you give us. “Truly” Can I ask why you don’t do very many build videos where your making a project? And I apologize if you have already covered this. But again thanks for the info and videos. Have a good day 👍
You provide the best information on a consistent basis increasing a woodworkers knowledge. Thank you the time you take to make these for us.
I am always nervous with big bits. I always use a remote speed control which allows me to turn the router off from a distance as well. I go by the sound and cut quality rather than knowing rpm.
Nice video
Frank
HA! Better to learn by watching than by trying sometimes! Thanks a lot !!! :D
Thanks. I learn something useful each video. Please keep them coming. Take care and be safe.
I asked you to explain this and you did it!!! Thank you so much!
😲 I think my comment inspired a Stumpy Nubs video! Thanks James!
I had no idea - thank you
Thanks for this informative video, Stumpy! Yet another video worth its weight in gold shavings 😊
Dude thanks for the teachings, now i know why i scorch my wood
Thanks for the explanation and reminder. Bought a few massive D3.3" bits that felt scary at my regular RPM.
Love the videos James, thanks for all the info
Great information! Thanks, James!
In which video do you discuss router feed depth? Tried to find it but couldn’t . Thanks!
really appreciate your content and you do a top notch job on them all
Enjoyed The video thanks for sharing your wisdom you have a blessed day
Any good router lists it's maximum variable speed on it's manufacturer label or website. Take that number & divide by the max number of levels on the adjustment dial (ie 25,000÷10=2,500). Then take that number and multiply it by each level (2,500×5=12,500). This will give you a close approximate speed for each level. Still test like stated in the video for vibrations, etc before plowing into that expensive exotic wood! 👍
I think I'd rather make sure than trust the quality of the print spacing on the dial.
Any recommendations on external speed control/rheostat for a router table so you don’t have to pull the motor out or open the door every time you want to change speeds? I heard some of the external ones can burn up your motor. Thanks!
Very helpful. Thank you. I like the Hedgehog Featherboards. I used. your link but it seems it only works on a miter slot, my router table uses a T-slot. Is there another weatherboard that works as well. I do use them but the Hedgehog looks better.
I assume you could swap the miter lock for a t-bolt. I'd email them and ask.
As long as the main/top portion of your miter slot is 3/4-inch wide, the Hedgehog should work just fine.
@stumpy nubs: At 4:17 do you adjust the feather board while having running your table saw? Or is it just an optical thing? Is this best practice?
Many thanks.👍🇬🇧
Extremely Helpful. Thank you!
Once AGAIN, THANK YOU!!
Thank you James.
Very useful information. I assume something similar applies to drill bits - I should generally lower the speed for larger Forstner bits?
Yes.
Yeay nice information
Thanks for sharing
Stay tuned
Woodworking
Thanks for the advice, very helpfull
Great info - thanks
Thanks I'll be using my trim router for the first time
Thsnk you!
You do good videos
Great info as always, more info on aftermarket speed controls please.
I was going to post a link to one, but they are about $50-60. Most people would rather just upgrade their router.
@@StumpyNubs, when you say "upgrade" do you mean buy a better machine, or can routers actually be upgraded, perhaps with aftermarket parts?
Yes, I mean buy a better machine.
$50 - $60 bucks compared to $329 to up grade my Bosch 3hp.
Top man as always
I have a straight bit that vibrates as I increase the speed until I get beyond a certain speed, and then it's smooth sailing. How should we determine optimal rotational speed in the case of a bit that has resonance induced vibration at lower rpms? (BTW the bit in question is 3" long, but perhaps 3/4 inch diameter....I use it for "jointing' small pieces)
Nice Thanks
Hey, something to use my optical tach to measure...
I once worked out the tip speed of my shaper discs and immediately wished for a leather apron.
hello sir! i am making a diy router table, I bought online a 1/2" chank, 3.5-inch panel raiser bit and ER16A Collet Chuck Motor Shaft Extension Rod C20-ER16-40L but i have only 1/2hp 3400rpm motor, do you think it will work?
My router goes to 11. (Ha!) Thanks for the tips. Speed counts also on the drill press, lathes, and track saws to name a few. It's worth taking the time to make the adjustment.
What router table is that?
SawStop. (No, it doesn't have flesh sensing technology like the saw does)
Great information!! Thanks
Sometimes Stumpy scares me! I was just this morning talking to someone about slowing the speed down on a router for bigger bits. Sure enough he posted a video just about that. In his video I was thinking I liked the looks of those feather boards. I know I've seen them but where? Sure enough he posted a link right to them.
I love those featherboards. I know folks will say "you're just saying that" but it's true. I was a fan before they were a sponsor. That's how it works, first I find tools I like, THEN I seek them out as channel supporters.
Bought a hedgehog feather board after watching your videos, and it won’t hold tight enough in the miter slots on table saw or router table. It just moves with the work piece no matter how I set it up. Anyone else have the same problem? Maybe I just got a bad apple because I’ve heard good things for the most part.
Every featherboard or locking table saw fixture I have doesn't work well with my Sawstop saws unless I add a strip or two of foil tape to the side of the piece that locks in the slot. Doesn't matter the brand or the jig, Sawstop saw slots (at least the one I have) are slightly wider than standard. Perhaps your saw is the same. Add a strip of foil tape. Problem solved.
Hey Andrew. There's usually a simple fix for that: 1. Tighten the knob much more than you normally would to flare out the miter clamp a little. That usually loosens things up. 2. If that doesn't help, flare the miter clamp out a little by inserting the tip of a flat blade into the slot and giving it a twist. If you still have problems, please contact me via my website at www.featherboards.com.
Great tips James. And I really like those Hedgehog featherboards. Added one to my Amazon shopping cart.
Stumpy Nubs Thanks for the tip!
Thanks
how is your hand doing since the accident
Still some issues, but I'm getting by. Thanks for asking.
Thanks a light bulb moment tip
My bosh just has numbers I don’t understand what each number is in speed. Can I help me understand this please
Did you watch the video? I discussed that, didn't I?
Does these physics also come into play on a rotor tool?
What type of rotary tool? You mean like a Dremel? The principal applies to any spinning bit. Forstner bits at the drill press, for example, will generate excess heat and dull quickly if you don't slow the larger ones down.
@@StumpyNubs yes sir
I have to admit I am absolutely terrified of my Router so it's stuck on a shelf gathering dust. Regards Jim
👍
I like my hedgehog.
Do you read my mind? It's like every video you post is relevant to my newest tool or latest problem...
Not to sharpshoot you, but... changing the feed rate doesn't change the number of cuts per second. It changes the number of cuts per inch.
You are correct, I misspoke.
💜
Once AGAIN, THANK YOU!!