Most Honda parasitic drains are Power door lock switch problems. They will keep the micu awake. Usually, you will feel the problem when trying to use the switch. Other things have been a Micu that has been subject to sunroof clogging, and being showered repeatedly. Sometimes the hood switch, when the alarm goes off in the middle of the night, hood switch is called for. Hope this helps someone.
The hood switch I have seen before, just don't recall the car that was doing it. Technically an intermittent open that would make it think that the hood was being opened and of course, the anti theft kicks in.
I just found that weak compressor relay on my 2006 Acura TL. It took a little head scratching because I replaced a wonky Trinary valve 2 years ago with a NAPA replacement. So I assumed aftermarket junk. Starting the car cold and watching the gauges led me to check the compressor relay.
My wife's CRV was rolling down the windows on its own, and the window switches got rained on. Turns out that they are programmed such that if the key fob "unlock" button is pressed twice and held on the 2nd press, it rolls down the windows, and the keys are in her (very full) purse. Thank you, Honda!
Always interesting content Ivan! Mciu looks like it was mostly shorted to ground all the time. You eliminated that when the driver was over amped and popped. Needed a new unit anyway. I’m sure the only drawback now would be that immediately after powering down, there would no longer be that short interval where you could still do up your windows or shut the moon roof with the key off. No biggie for most people… just quickly re-power on the vehicle. And looking at the data, it looks like that engine just isn’t quite breathing right. Probably the waste gate stuck open a bit. Maybe after a while on the highway it tips over the computers threshold and sets the code. But who knows!?
I was thinking the same thing probably a random hang up and the fact that it has happened a few times since it left says that is most likely the issue. Maybe a good steam clean and lube might fix it
Zap pop !! It's fixed. I almost pissed myself laughing. Hey I believe you - but I could see the smirky look on your face when you were explaining it.. Priceless !
On our daughter Hondoo, the AC would cut out after running a while, but it wasn't the relay. It was the air gap for the compressor clutch. Saw Eric O's video on repairing a Hondoo AC problem. Went with the Eric O fix and it has been working for the last 5 years. To determine if it is an air gap problem you just need to see if the clutch is engaging with the AC on.
Acura, yeah, its been sitting for a while, hence not being taken care of with all these issues. Due to the fact its been sitting, all of these issues has occurred at once as it has been sitting. Thanks Ivan, fantastic episode.
I like how you are always keeping the customer in mind, Ivan. However, if you need to get some "windshield" time in to determine the problem, that is just something the customer will need to accept. If you drive that car for an hour, you will need to charge him for gas as well as your time. (At 19:30 you got a good shot of the fuel gauge.) Clearly he wanted the car repaired or he wouldn't have driven the distance. As far as the turbo, my Excursion was new and it kept throwing the code "turbo overboost." That has a variable vane turbo (as I assume this car does) and the vanes would stick open. They tried cleaning, blasting with ground-up walnut shells, etc. to no avail. Finally, they replaced the turbo with a new Garrett OEM turbo and the issues disappeared. I doubt seriously the owner of this car will go that route. You might need to burst into a spirited rendition of Bobby McFerren's song, "Don't worry, be happy." Great video!
Well done. Snap carckle pop!😅 appreciate the emphasis about communication with customer. Oftentimes, I feel this may go overlooked. Be honest and upfront. Definitely goes both ways! Thanks for sharing!!
Like I sais in part 1 Turbos are a PITA overuse they break under use they set codes morale of my comment is if you don't constantly use the turbo to it's optimum they aren't worth the trouble. Cheers Ivan you have the patience of a saint.
Most Honda compressor clutches wear down the clutch face. The magnetic field can’t pull it in so a common fix is to remove the shim or if really worn, grind the center shaft down a little.
Great thought process, Ivan! Interesting development - you probably popped a dud delay timer transistor and solved the problem, but no more of a delay timer, that was not really needed :-) Alternative would be to replace the MICU, which would add more time and $$$. So, the turbo issue was only lack of use - wish there was more to it, as it should be an interesting diagnostic :-)
Definitely the right call on that relay. The clutch coil is also super common, especially after a hot soak. I’ve done dozens. There was a warranty extension on it back in the day. SB 12-039
Nice video Ivan, putting load on the circuit made it pop. Woooo. Not something i would do lol i assume it's the carbon is stuck on turbo. But giving a full workout is pretty much needed!! Im sure it was used for short trips. That's why the turbo was not being utilized. Great video Ivan
I was suspecting the ac problem to be a bad ac clutch. Have owned Honda for years and the clutch face gets worn and the clutch electrics get weak. You can replace the clutch and set the gap without unhooking the ac lines.
What you did was “blow away the high joint”. It’s a practice used by power utilities to clear ground faults (usually from trees/foliage) from circuits.
I was thinking the "keep awake timer" was the problem and was going to suggest cutting the brown wire and doing without it. You essentially did the same thing.
I was going to suggest the same thing. My 05 Acura doesn't have that feature. Once you turn off the key, accessories are dead. I don't think the customer will miss it.
I've seen turbo codes show up for Variable vane turbos when the vanes get sticky. The ECU doesn't get the response it expects due to the requesting a certain vane position and not getting it. Depending on the turbo, if the exhaust side, it's due to carbon buildup. On the intake side it's usually due to the owner either extending the oil changes or carbon buildup from not allowing the recommended cool down time after a extended high speed drive.
Your AC complaint sounds exactly like I experienced on my Subaru Forester. The compressor clutch would disengage after a while and not come back on until it cooled. I looked on a Subaru forum and found that the air gap on the clutch was .018" too wide. After removing a .020" shim from behind the clutch plate it never acted up again.
Did you kill the power time-out function that allows you a few minutes of power to roll the windows up and close the sunroof after you have removed the key, and cause the power to be off immediately?
I suspect that car was built with a feature that allowed you to close the windows for a short period after you turn the car off. I further suspect the circuit associated with that feature was the location of the window/draw problem and that your four-amp-pop fixed the problem by disabling that feature.
That was funny! I bet that driver was burned out from the wet connector. I had a feeling he was going to have to cut the brown wire to save the cost of an MICU replacement just for some windows.
Hi Ivan, I was thinking that the AC worked intermittently because the AC clutch gap is becoming too large. As the electromagnet coil heats up, resistance goes up and the coil gets weaker to the point where the armature plate can no longer be held. Let it cool and it works again. I had this happen on my 02 Civic, and a friend's 08 CRV. I do believe you have a video where you fixed the same problem by reshimming the gap. I believe the relay is also a problem but I thought that they failed outright. As always, I really enjoy your videos.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I think the coil will fail outright due to an internal short in the windings so check the clutch gap. I believe the spec is 0.02 +/- 0.006 inch. I think the coil should be 3.5 +/- 0.2 ohm.
There is a TSB and warranty extension for those compressor clutch stator's and clutches but he is out of the covered period. It's a very common problem
I believe in the start of the prior video the owner said he had a water leak filling up the drivers foot well, and the problems started after that. I think the dome light, draw, and power windows staying on were all related to the water.
I wonder id the A/C relay had something to do with the turbo boost relay, on many cars, A/C is de activated when giving the car full throttle. maybe a long ride with the old failing relay in and the A/C on would have show the problem.. just a wild guess
Well, the timer delay on the power windows is nothing more than a novelty feature IMO. Technically, that feature should disable immediately the moment that the dome lights power on after you remove the key from the ignition or open a door. That's how it works on my Honda at least. But as long as everything works as it's supposed to when the key is on, then that's all you really need.
P/W means Power Window, so P/W TIMER = Power Window Timer, which is a power window master switch control input from the MICU. But, what kind of control is P/W TIMER circuit? My guess would be an active low, meaning windows and Sunroof operational when pulled to ground using a low side driver (or it could be relay controlled?) in the MICU. If this is the case then there should be pullups in the Window Master Switch and the Sunroof controller input. So, the first basic test would be to check the voltage on P/W TIMER circuit. Not knowing the system I would probably start with my PICOscope or my ScopeMeter, I would like to get more information than with just my DMM in case the signal is dynamic, which I doubt. If a constant DC voltage, like in the video I would disconnect the signal from the MICU and see what the default pullup voltage value is. Which I am assuming is a pullup to +12V DC (VPWR). So, without the MICU drive circuit disconnect the signal at the module inputs should go to +12V DC, and the power windows and the sunroof should be off with key off. For this type of troubleshooting, I like to put the vehicle on life support using a DC Linear Regulated Power supply, so let's say set it to 13V DC. Which should provide enough power to the vehicle and also put a slight charge on the battery (if not completely dead). The main benefit is to put a known regulated voltage on vehicle power. So if I read +13V DC at the fuse box input, all my power feeds should be +13V DC, and by extension all of the module pullups which reference VPWR should also pullup to +13V DC. So, if I see a strange intermediate voltage I know there must be a voltage divider formed somewhere. Let's assume the MICU has a low side driver to control the P/W TIMER circuit. Usually, the low side driver would have full diagnostics + protection against overcurrent. So, the low side switch should not get damaged with a overcurrent event (high current test light), and also the overcurrent event should store a DTC, however the MIL Light my remain off. If the low side driver circuit uses a relay (not for power but for isolation which I have seen), then an over current event could blow a fuse (protection against a +12V VPWR short, with a low side switch to ground). For the pitted relay contacts you could measure the bad relay load side voltage drop, and then compare it to the new installed relay load side voltage drop. For a heat related delayed failure of the relay the contacts must have high resistance as compared to a new relay. But, I have seen a lot of strange relay behavior with heat. For fun you could tear apart the failing relay and see what the contacts look like under the microscope.
Hi Ivan I just got done painting my engine compartment and need to sand all the ground contacts, I thought I saved your video where you show a drill attachment that does this What is the name and model of this attachment ?????????????????????????? Thanks
Is there a solution to an intermittent problem device??? One that you leave plugged in to the car after configuration that data logs, and when the problem reoccurs, the driver removes it and sends it back to you for analysis?? Or....could you invent or task someone to make one? Could make your fortune ?
i dunno if hearing a pop is considered a fix if there is corrosion you might just have burned through the crud and welded whatever it was to the part it's botlted to little bit of shudder or potholes can break that but i'm just guessing either way investigating it would have been the better choice
What about a rain sensor does this car have this option some cars have auto sun roof close when rain is detected.? Oops i see you got it , I've been watching your show for a while i should have known better again good job.
So the parasitic drain is cured, the A/C clutch now works as designed, but the turbo still has the code. Is it losing power when the code appears? Maybe with a scan tool in flight record and a scope monitoring different test points you find this intermittent. Just a thought.
That pop could have possibly been simple corrosion shorting the timer and keeping it on, and when you put higher current to it, it popped that corrosion bridge like a blown fuse; fixing the issue. That would be my logical guess.
@@reweydewy Are you sure? I didn't see him test it. I'll go back and watch. The timer is pretty dumb anyway IMO. I always find myself standing there and waiting for the light to go out-- because I don't trust that it's off. lol.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I get that, but that "pop" sound could have any one of many things that possibly affect other things on the car. Wouldn't it make sense to quickly check all fuses and system functionality before giving the car back?
I have the same car. Factory default is: when the key is turned from on to off, the power windows and sunroof stay live until after the door is opened. Did the pop fix it back to that?
Yes, there is a timer that gives you a few minutes of power after the key is off, so you can roll up the windows or close the sunroof. The timer is cancelled if you open the door and power is removed. He may have killed that time-out circuit.
I’d say just reset the Code every time it comes up until it gets to a point where it really is annoying then it will be easier to reproduce the problem…
Should have blasted it with the old power probe Ivan, full send would have popped it right away and killed your draw. Intermittent problems always suck, that can be a tough call if you cannot duplicate or confirm complaint.
Ivan do you have a clone in Europe? I have rapid flasher issue (all bulbs are fine) and A/C issue occurred at same time on my renault kangoo 2018 but nobody could figure out so far what is wrong... :(
After you've stopped somewhere, turned the engine off, and want to sit for a couple minutes it gives you time to roll up the windows before leaving the car without having to turn the ignition or engine back on.
PHAD; do you do this for a living or do you have a side job where your income is more streamlined? Does TH-cam have an overall impact on your income? Just curious as to what other things you do as I see that you enjoy doing what you do. I love troubleshooting and hope to open a shop soon but this question always come up when I see your videos and how detailed you usually are as far as variables go. A lot of techs are more of a replace and replace parts and pray that it works, it is always a 50/50 gamble and time is money so in your case the Likehood of not making money is greater.
It's his job now. I believe he's an electrical engineer. He started working on his masters. Got tired of 9-5. Decided that his electrical and mechanical knowledge would be put to use with self-employment. His wife, Amber is an eye doctor.
@@dans_Learning_Curve thank you, I guess that's my caveat, my wife doesn't work or doesn't make enough as she takes care of our kids so my income is critical. I have money saved up and enough tools and diag equipment to be a serious diagnostician and such. Maybe will wait a bit more until I'm almost out of my mortgage. My economy is good enough but I don't enjoy my current work. Could be easier but I'm salary currently.
If you're going to "fix" it by blowing components, you should at least pop open the module and see if there is an obvious FET you can just desolder. No sense leaving a blown one in circuit unless they make it super difficult!
True. He should have never blown it up either. He should have disconnected that wire to prove it was keeping everything on and then could’ve just disconnected it.
@@jeffkellner1585 To be fair, it is an easy mistake to make. I doubt Ivan planned to "fix" it that way, more likely he was just demonstrating stuff without thinking and it happened.
I haven't looked at his website in a while, but I think he charges $150.00 per hour for diagnosis time regardless of what he does. (If he has to drive for hours to diagnose a car, etc.) He is really particular about what he charges; making sure he charges the customer fairly. IIRC he does this full-time and has since 2019. Of course, parts etc. are extra.
@@lvsqcsl ivans service is a great value, especially being that finding an honest and competent tech is not easy nowdays. put your car in the wrong hands and it can become a living nightmare.. theres alot of shady shops that try to steal your car, by running up a huge bill, fixed or not, and if u dont pay, they hold the car hostage, then file a mechanics lien on it. after they steal your car, THEN they try to half ass fix it, to resell. There are somewhat rare people, whose morals, convictions, upbringing, ect just simply will not allow them to go to the dark side.. I think with Ivan its not even a consideration. nobody knows everything, so sometimes you pay, for them to learn on your car, but thats just how it goes. with technology changing constantly, and merging, that the price you pay to drive a newer vehicle. also if you go to a dealership they are not even going to try to fix anything until they can get 1,000 dollars, just to start.. then they have you on the hook, and try to pull another 2 or 3 grand out of you. Dealerships have so much overhead, they simply will not go deep into a technical repair or diagnosis unless thousands can be made. also most great techs leave dealerships once they get experience, because they arent treated fairly.
What a shame that you've interjected politics into your videos. You should at the very least try to keep your videos politically neutral by not mentioning it and keeping political symbols out of your videos. You have a right to your opinions, i get that, but your viewers have their opinions also. Many will dismiss your errors. The problem is trump did nothing great for this country! He didn't drain the swamp he brought in a even bigger swamp a more dangerous one!
LoL Who brought up politics? Trump admitted that "this is more difficult than I thought it would be!". Ivan is doing well with his business and TH-cam channel. You're free to stay or go. TDS is a bad thing!
@Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics What I saw was trump 2020, so it's not a 5 year old garage ornament. What's sad is that you seem like a logical reasonably person. Why do you want to interject political symbols in your videos. You should know people are going to notice that. Just exactly what good did trump do during his 4 years? What good did he do on Jan 6? What good is he doing now? He still claims the election was stolen. I suppose you agree with that. Even the courts disagree with him on that. He's a cancer on this country. Then you have the nerve to show a trump 2020 sign in your garage. Sorry this doesn't set well with me. I've watched many of your videos on repairs if I want to see political stuff I'll watch political videos not repair videos that push their political views and that's what the trump 2020 sign is all about. Subtle, but it's their.
Most Honda parasitic drains are Power door lock switch problems. They will keep the micu awake. Usually, you will feel the problem when trying to use the switch. Other things have been a Micu that has been subject to sunroof clogging, and being showered repeatedly. Sometimes the hood switch, when the alarm goes off in the middle of the night, hood switch is called for. Hope this helps someone.
The hood switch I have seen before, just don't recall the car that was doing it. Technically an intermittent open that would make it think that the hood was being opened and of course, the anti theft kicks in.
I just found that weak compressor relay on my 2006 Acura TL. It took a little head scratching because I replaced a wonky Trinary valve 2 years ago with a NAPA replacement. So I assumed aftermarket junk. Starting the car cold and watching the gauges led me to check the compressor relay.
Seen a couple 2006-2011 civics with the hood switch alarm issue. Good old honda ac clutch relays....
My wife's CRV was rolling down the windows on its own, and the window switches got rained on. Turns out that they are programmed such that if the key fob "unlock" button is pressed twice and held on the 2nd press, it rolls down the windows, and the keys are in her (very full) purse. Thank you, Honda!
So, are you saying the P/W Timer circuit is an output to the MICU and the Sunroof?
Always interesting content Ivan!
Mciu looks like it was mostly shorted to ground all the time. You eliminated that when the driver was over amped and popped. Needed a new unit anyway. I’m sure the only drawback now would be that immediately after powering down, there would no longer be that short interval where you could still do up your windows or shut the moon roof with the key off. No biggie for most people… just quickly re-power on the vehicle.
And looking at the data, it looks like that engine just isn’t quite breathing right. Probably the waste gate stuck open a bit. Maybe after a while on the highway it tips over the computers threshold and sets the code. But who knows!?
I was thinking the same thing probably a random hang up and the fact that it has happened a few times since it left says that is most likely the issue. Maybe a good steam clean and lube might fix it
Zap pop !! It's fixed. I almost pissed myself laughing. Hey I believe you - but I could see the smirky look on your face when you were explaining it.. Priceless !
Maybe the 4 hour trip at 75 MPH cleaned out some built up crap in the turbo!
i had the A/C relay issue on my 07 accord. luckily a youtube video told me how to test it. thanks for the tips!
On our daughter Hondoo, the AC would cut out after running a while, but it wasn't the relay. It was the air gap for the compressor clutch. Saw Eric O's video on repairing a Hondoo AC problem. Went with the Eric O fix and it has been working for the last 5 years. To determine if it is an air gap problem you just need to see if the clutch is engaging with the AC on.
Ivan, I'm a little surprised at you to not find out what popped. Could that something else is broken now. Have to wait and see I guess.
Acura, yeah, its been sitting for a while, hence not being taken care of with all these issues. Due to the fact its been sitting, all of these issues has occurred at once as it has been sitting. Thanks Ivan, fantastic episode.
I like how you are always keeping the customer in mind, Ivan. However, if you need to get some "windshield" time in to determine the problem, that is just something the customer will need to accept. If you drive that car for an hour, you will need to charge him for gas as well as your time. (At 19:30 you got a good shot of the fuel gauge.) Clearly he wanted the car repaired or he wouldn't have driven the distance. As far as the turbo, my Excursion was new and it kept throwing the code "turbo overboost." That has a variable vane turbo (as I assume this car does) and the vanes would stick open. They tried cleaning, blasting with ground-up walnut shells, etc. to no avail. Finally, they replaced the turbo with a new Garrett OEM turbo and the issues disappeared. I doubt seriously the owner of this car will go that route. You might need to burst into a spirited rendition of Bobby McFerren's song, "Don't worry, be happy." Great video!
Well done. Snap carckle pop!😅 appreciate the emphasis about communication with customer. Oftentimes, I feel this may go overlooked. Be honest and upfront. Definitely goes both ways! Thanks for sharing!!
Thank you for the AC relay tip I have and 2010 accord with an intermittent AC issue
You scared the turbo! Vehicles are very afraid, once they meet the Master of Pine Hollow! Great Great Great Video. Loved that pop sound!!!!
Like I sais in part 1 Turbos are a PITA overuse they break under use they set codes morale of my comment is if you don't constantly use the turbo to it's optimum they aren't worth the trouble. Cheers Ivan you have the patience of a saint.
My guy damn near 175k strong with subs!! 💪 Keep up the great work!!
Most Honda compressor clutches wear down the clutch face. The magnetic field can’t pull it in so a common fix is to remove the shim or if really worn, grind the center shaft down a little.
Great thought process, Ivan! Interesting development - you probably popped a dud delay timer transistor and solved the problem, but no more of a delay timer, that was not really needed :-)
Alternative would be to replace the MICU, which would add more time and $$$. So, the turbo issue was only lack of use - wish there was more to it, as it should be an interesting diagnostic :-)
Love your methodical approach.
Definitely the right call on that relay. The clutch coil is also super common, especially after a hot soak. I’ve done dozens. There was a warranty extension on it back in the day. SB 12-039
Nice video Ivan, putting load on the circuit made it pop. Woooo. Not something i would do lol i assume it's the carbon is stuck on turbo. But giving a full workout is pretty much needed!! Im sure it was used for short trips. That's why the turbo was not being utilized. Great video Ivan
I was suspecting the ac problem to be a bad ac clutch. Have owned Honda for years and the clutch face gets worn and the clutch electrics get weak. You can replace the clutch and set the gap without unhooking the ac lines.
Same with Subaru! I just pulled the clutch apart, pulled a shim out and put the clutch back together.
What you did was “blow away the high joint”. It’s a practice used by power utilities to clear ground faults (usually from trees/foliage) from circuits.
I was thinking the "keep awake timer" was the problem and was going to suggest cutting the brown wire and doing without it. You essentially did the same thing.
I was going to suggest the same thing. My 05 Acura doesn't have that feature. Once you turn off the key, accessories are dead. I don't think the customer will miss it.
I've seen turbo codes show up for Variable vane turbos when the vanes get sticky. The ECU doesn't get the response it expects due to the requesting a certain vane position and not getting it. Depending on the turbo, if the exhaust side, it's due to carbon buildup. On the intake side it's usually due to the owner either extending the oil changes or carbon buildup from not allowing the recommended cool down time after a extended high speed drive.
Side of fried silicon with that fix. Water rarely ever was a problem near the dash. Time for the caulk gun?
Your AC complaint sounds exactly like I experienced on my Subaru Forester. The compressor clutch would disengage after a while and not come back on until it cooled. I looked on a Subaru forum and found that the air gap on the clutch was .018" too wide. After removing a .020" shim from behind the clutch plate it never acted up again.
That was a lot of troubleshooting! You really hung in there to get thru all that....
It was stuck ! Extra voltage kinda kicked it in the rear! Came loose. I’ve fixed several things and still don’t know why
Did you kill the power time-out function that allows you a few minutes of power to roll the windows up and close the sunroof after you have removed the key, and cause the power to be off immediately?
Well it was stuck ON all the time and not timing out. Now it's OFF all the time after I zapped it with the high amp test light 😅👍
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics was that your intended outcome?
This car had a whole lot of green crusties. Deoxit to the rescue.
I suspect that car was built with a feature that allowed you to close the windows for a short period after you turn the car off. I further suspect the circuit associated with that feature was the location of the window/draw problem and that your four-amp-pop fixed the problem by disabling that feature.
I replaced the timer after this exact problem happened in my sisters car. Same thing was happening! Never thought to try test light like that
How do you replace the timer?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics cut the traces to the bad timer and soldered wires directly to a new smd timer
if the customer went to the dealer they would tell him he needs a 20.000 dollar wiring harness
Who knew letting the smoke out could fix stuff 😂
That was funny!
I bet that driver was burned out from the wet connector.
I had a feeling he was going to have to cut the brown wire to save the cost of an MICU replacement just for some windows.
Not typical 😅😂
Well, they obviously put too much smoke in that fuse box at the factory. ;)
LoL 😂😆
Wow... Crazy ! Nice one Ivan.
Hi Ivan, I was thinking that the AC worked intermittently because the AC clutch gap is becoming too large. As the electromagnet coil heats up, resistance goes up and the coil gets weaker to the point where the armature plate can no longer be held. Let it cool and it works again. I had this happen on my 02 Civic, and a friend's 08 CRV. I do believe you have a video where you fixed the same problem by reshimming the gap. I believe the relay is also a problem but I thought that they failed outright. As always, I really enjoy your videos.
New relay made it better, but it still cuts out after an hour when it's really hot outside... You're right probably the clutch coil getting weak 👍
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I think the coil will fail outright due to an internal short in the windings so check the clutch gap. I believe the spec is 0.02 +/- 0.006 inch. I think the coil should be 3.5 +/- 0.2 ohm.
Yep, closed the gap on the clutch on the compressor on my '03 Forester. AC was intermittent.
There is a TSB and warranty extension for those compressor clutch stator's and clutches but he is out of the covered period. It's a very common problem
Did the owner ever say when all these issues started to happen? Did they all start within a week or two, or was it over a long period of time?
I believe in the start of the prior video the owner said he had a water leak filling up the drivers foot well, and the problems started after that.
I think the dome light, draw, and power windows staying on were all related to the water.
@@volvo09 I wondered if the turbo and AC issue also started at the same time
I wonder id the A/C relay had something to do with the turbo boost relay, on many cars, A/C is de activated when giving the car full throttle. maybe a long ride with the old failing relay in and the A/C on would have show the problem.. just a wild guess
PHAD saves yet another basket case. Well done Ivan!
Well, the timer delay on the power windows is nothing more than a novelty feature IMO. Technically, that feature should disable immediately the moment that the dome lights power on after you remove the key from the ignition or open a door. That's how it works on my Honda at least. But as long as everything works as it's supposed to when the key is on, then that's all you really need.
P/W means Power Window, so P/W TIMER = Power Window Timer, which is a power window master switch control input from the MICU. But, what kind of control is P/W TIMER circuit? My guess would be an active low, meaning windows and Sunroof operational when pulled to ground using a low side driver (or it could be relay controlled?) in the MICU. If this is the case then there should be pullups in the Window Master Switch and the Sunroof controller input. So, the first basic test would be to check the voltage on P/W TIMER circuit. Not knowing the system I would probably start with my PICOscope or my ScopeMeter, I would like to get more information than with just my DMM in case the signal is dynamic, which I doubt. If a constant DC voltage, like in the video I would disconnect the signal from the MICU and see what the default pullup voltage value is. Which I am assuming is a pullup to +12V DC (VPWR). So, without the MICU drive circuit disconnect the signal at the module inputs should go to +12V DC, and the power windows and the sunroof should be off with key off.
For this type of troubleshooting, I like to put the vehicle on life support using a DC Linear Regulated Power supply, so let's say set it to 13V DC. Which should provide enough power to the vehicle and also put a slight charge on the battery (if not completely dead). The main benefit is to put a known regulated voltage on vehicle power. So if I read +13V DC at the fuse box input, all my power feeds should be +13V DC, and by extension all of the module pullups which reference VPWR should also pullup to +13V DC. So, if I see a strange intermediate voltage I know there must be a voltage divider formed somewhere.
Let's assume the MICU has a low side driver to control the P/W TIMER circuit. Usually, the low side driver would have full diagnostics + protection against overcurrent. So, the low side switch should not get damaged with a overcurrent event (high current test light), and also the overcurrent event should store a DTC, however the MIL Light my remain off. If the low side driver circuit uses a relay (not for power but for isolation which I have seen), then an over current event could blow a fuse (protection against a +12V VPWR short, with a low side switch to ground).
For the pitted relay contacts you could measure the bad relay load side voltage drop, and then compare it to the new installed relay load side voltage drop. For a heat related delayed failure of the relay the contacts must have high resistance as compared to a new relay. But, I have seen a lot of strange relay behavior with heat. For fun you could tear apart the failing relay and see what the contacts look like under the microscope.
Its tough when you cant reproduce the issues. Sometimes an educatwd guess is best when the part is cheap expecislly when the customer drove this far.
Hi Ivan I just got done painting my engine compartment and need to sand all the ground contacts, I thought I saved your video where you show a drill attachment that does this What is the name and model of this attachment ?????????????????????????? Thanks
Link in description of Hyundai Alternator video :)
Is there a solution to an intermittent problem device??? One that you leave plugged in to the car after configuration that data logs, and when the problem reoccurs, the driver removes it and sends it back to you for analysis?? Or....could you invent or task someone to make one? Could make your fortune ?
i dunno if hearing a pop is considered a fix if there is corrosion you might just have burned through the crud and welded whatever it was to the part it's botlted to little bit of shudder or potholes can break that but i'm just guessing either way investigating it would have been the better choice
I call foul on that window "fix".
Great stuff as always.👍👍🇺🇸
What about a rain sensor does this car have this option some cars have auto sun roof close when rain is detected.? Oops i see you got it , I've been watching your show for a while i should have known better again good job.
That was a real kool fix😂
I hate it when the phone rings at an important time lol 9:16
Pe timer is so you can shut the windows with the key out for a short time
I would have disabled the wire from the PWT to prevent a future current leak.
So the parasitic drain is cured, the A/C clutch now works as designed, but the turbo still has the code. Is it losing power when the code appears?
Maybe with a scan tool in flight record and a scope monitoring different test points you find this intermittent. Just a thought.
That pop could have possibly been simple corrosion shorting the timer and keeping it on, and when you put higher current to it, it popped that corrosion bridge like a blown fuse; fixing the issue. That would be my logical guess.
But now the ignition off delay timer doesn't work at all
@@reweydewy Are you sure? I didn't see him test it. I'll go back and watch. The timer is pretty dumb anyway IMO. I always find myself standing there and waiting for the light to go out-- because I don't trust that it's off. lol.
Modern cars with weird electrical issues are nightmares
How can you say you fixed the windows when you have no idea what popped when you didn't even check all the fuses in the car to see if something blew?
Because the windows work fine and there is no more draw lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I get that, but that "pop" sound could have any one of many things that possibly affect other things on the car. Wouldn't it make sense to quickly check all fuses and system functionality before giving the car back?
@@mikemurphy7519 of course I checked all functionality 👍
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics ok. Wasn't in the video.
Ivan could you of cut the brown wire for the keep alive and accomplished the same result.
Yes at the MICU :)
I have the same car. Factory default is: when the key is turned from on to off, the power windows and sunroof stay live until after the door is opened.
Did the pop fix it back to that?
Stay tuned bonus turbo
Diag and repair 😁
Damn, I was thinking AC clutch relay was stuck.
my Honda i can raise open window with key off but if i open door i have to turn the back on
Yes, there is a timer that gives you a few minutes of power after the key is off, so you can roll up the windows or close the sunroof. The timer is cancelled if you open the door and power is removed. He may have killed that time-out circuit.
Yup that's the design. Now they only work with the key ON 👍
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Kinda like a 1996 Mercury?
@@lvsqcsl Uhhh you don't need any stinkin key to crank the windows in the Mercury xD
I’m kinda curious when costumer decided that his car got enough of issues to take it to the workshop? 😁
How to Make a test lamp variable amp Like yours ?
Hi Ivan ! Love your work ! I just purchased a thinktool pros , do you know by any chance how you go into the android default menu?
I've never seen the "Android Default Menu" on the Thinktool...
Why is the girl poster gone off your wall?
Should I put it back up? Running out of wall space haha
No, I was joking, but I look for her out of habit, really enjoy your videos although most of the time over my head
Yes but now you wont have retained accessory power function.
boo hoo lol
Call me crazy, it is set up to let you close windows and sunroof after shutdown, that you forgot. It snould time out or stop when you open a door,
Crazy question what type of headlamp are you wearing?
See AMAZON STORE :)
5:56 You mean voltage drop,?
Could the relay have been stuck?
I’d say just reset the Code every time it comes up until it gets to a point where it really is annoying then it will be easier to reproduce the problem…
Should have blasted it with the old power probe Ivan, full send would have popped it right away and killed your draw. Intermittent problems always suck, that can be a tough call if you cannot duplicate or confirm complaint.
it would appear that you pop'd a stray short to something
Ivan do you have a clone in Europe? I have rapid flasher issue (all bulbs are fine) and A/C issue occurred at same time on my renault kangoo 2018 but nobody could figure out so far what is wrong... :(
update: aftermarket towing hook socket caused the malfunction on flashers.
So you “fixed it” by burning the timer out of it. I guess you don’t really need things to work after turning the key off
Why would you need a time out function for the windows and sunroof because surely you wouldn't want them working when the key is off anyway.
After you've stopped somewhere, turned the engine off, and want to sit for a couple minutes it gives you time to roll up the windows before leaving the car without having to turn the ignition or engine back on.
Sometimes is better to be lucky than good!!! 😧👍🇺🇦👍🇺🇦
Russia#1 🇷🇺 🥾 🇺🇦
they likely use capacitors for timers, and you discharged it.
amazing.
12:11 Probably you burn that green oxides...
Possibly killed power time-out function that lets you operate a few things for a few minutes as long as you don't open the door.
5 out of 6 is not bad.
PHAD; do you do this for a living or do you have a side job where your income is more streamlined? Does TH-cam have an overall impact on your income? Just curious as to what other things you do as I see that you enjoy doing what you do. I love troubleshooting and hope to open a shop soon but this question always come up when I see your videos and how detailed you usually are as far as variables go. A lot of techs are more of a replace and replace parts and pray that it works, it is always a 50/50 gamble and time is money so in your case the Likehood of not making money is greater.
It's his job now. I believe he's an electrical engineer. He started working on his masters. Got tired of 9-5. Decided that his electrical and mechanical knowledge would be put to use with self-employment. His wife, Amber is an eye doctor.
@@dans_Learning_Curve thank you, I guess that's my caveat, my wife doesn't work or doesn't make enough as she takes care of our kids so my income is critical. I have money saved up and enough tools and diag equipment to be a serious diagnostician and such. Maybe will wait a bit more until I'm almost out of my mortgage. My economy is good enough but I don't enjoy my current work. Could be easier but I'm salary currently.
@@dans_Learning_Curve *Amanda lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I think auto correct hit me!? Sorry!! I'll definitely never do that again!
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Today! LoL 😂😆
Have a great day!
Very good work 🎉🎉🎉🎉😅😅😅😅😅
Did you check the air filter?
Engine or cabin?
@@dans_Learning_Curve Funny
@@tallbrian100 he was having ac issues... 🤔
@@dans_Learning_Curve I guess you did not watch the first video or the end of the second video.
@@tallbrian100 I did but probably missed something.
If you're going to "fix" it by blowing components, you should at least pop open the module and see if there is an obvious FET you can just desolder. No sense leaving a blown one in circuit unless they make it super difficult!
True. He should have never blown it up either. He should have disconnected that wire to prove it was keeping everything on and then could’ve just disconnected it.
@@jeffkellner1585 To be fair, it is an easy mistake to make. I doubt Ivan planned to "fix" it that way, more likely he was just demonstrating stuff without thinking and it happened.
It was kind of an unintentional repair during testing :D
Leave timer wire disconnected. Draw should be gone.
Or burn up that circuit.
LOL
Pop goes the Wiesel.
You are old enough to remember Romper Room? WOW!
You are dating yourself now!
Nice
You were too smart by half. You had a resistive key-off circuit short to the key-on circuit. The proper diagnostic procedure was to find the short.
I don't think you popped a driver. If you did, something wouldn't work right. I think you popped a green crusty.
👍
Most cars definitely need the so-called _"Italian Tune Up"_ especially if it's a city car and never gets on the highway.
You are probably not charging enough for your service .
why do u say that? he charges a seperate charge for every issue if not directly related. each issue has a minimum diag fee. plus hourly time.
I haven't looked at his website in a while, but I think he charges $150.00 per hour for diagnosis time regardless of what he does. (If he has to drive for hours to diagnose a car, etc.) He is really particular about what he charges; making sure he charges the customer fairly. IIRC he does this full-time and has since 2019. Of course, parts etc. are extra.
@@lvsqcsl ivans service is a great value, especially being that finding an honest and competent tech is not easy nowdays. put your car in the wrong hands and it can become a living nightmare.. theres alot of shady shops that try to steal your car, by running up a huge bill, fixed or not, and if u dont pay, they hold the car hostage, then file a mechanics lien on it. after they steal your car, THEN they try to half ass fix it, to resell.
There are somewhat rare people, whose morals, convictions, upbringing, ect just simply will not allow them to go to the dark side.. I think with Ivan its not even a consideration. nobody knows everything, so sometimes you pay, for them to learn on your car, but thats just how it goes. with technology changing constantly, and merging, that the price you pay to drive a newer vehicle.
also if you go to a dealership they are not even going to try to fix anything until they can get 1,000 dollars, just to start.. then they have you on the hook, and try to pull another 2 or 3 grand out of you. Dealerships have so much overhead, they simply will not go deep into a technical repair or diagnosis unless thousands can be made. also most great techs leave dealerships once they get experience, because they arent treated fairly.
2nd like HA
1st like
What a shame that you've interjected politics into your videos. You should at the very least try to keep your videos politically neutral by not mentioning it and keeping political symbols out of your videos. You have a right to your opinions, i get that, but your viewers have their opinions also. Many will dismiss your errors. The problem is trump did nothing great for this country! He didn't drain the swamp he brought in a even bigger swamp a more dangerous one!
LoL
Who brought up politics?
Trump admitted that "this is more difficult than I thought it would be!".
Ivan is doing well with his business and TH-cam channel. You're free to stay or go.
TDS is a bad thing!
The fact that people are triggered by 5-year old garage decor is amusing xD
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics yep! For someone to be "living rent free in his head" for this long!
Stop it !! Get some help. Just say no!
@Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics
What I saw was trump 2020, so it's not a 5 year old garage ornament. What's sad is that you seem like a logical reasonably person. Why do you want to interject political symbols in your videos. You should know people are going to notice that. Just exactly what good did trump do during his 4 years? What good did he do on Jan 6? What good is he doing now? He still claims the election was stolen. I suppose you agree with that. Even the courts disagree with him on that. He's a cancer on this country. Then you have the nerve to show a trump 2020 sign in your garage. Sorry this doesn't set well with me. I've watched many of your videos on repairs if I want to see political stuff I'll watch political videos not repair videos that push their political views and that's what the trump 2020 sign is all about. Subtle, but it's their.
I bet when your customer bought the Acura to the dealer they don’t know what is wrong huh that’s what happened to me lol.