I’ve been reloading for years here’s what to look at if your gonna start reloading. Primers can you find them and afford them. If your gonna buy a magnum type round slow burning magnum powders are usually the hardest to find. Retumbo, H1000, Reloader 26 are worth a lot of money to a lot of people that have more money than I do. Good bullet selection has been pretty consistent. Most powders are available but pick and chose what calibers your gonna reload. Sometimes it’s cheaper and easier to buy factory if your only shooting a few rounds a year
Good stuff man !been doing this for about 60 years always new stuff coming out new things to try pass the old stuff on to your bodies who are just getting started
After going through the precision rifle, reloading journey I totally agree with your advice. I would add that with electronic scales that it’s necessary to have a higher quality beam scale to check them every now and again. Sidenote, I’ve had terrible luck with Lyman electronic scales. RCBS lite has outperformed and exceeded my expectations.
Amen, Amen, amen. . . As a person who started reloading in 2019 and has had to navigate the lack of components for my new passion, I can't agree more with you. I'm at that spot in my reloading now where I'm coming to the same conclusion espoused in this video. I love my RCBS Rock Chucker I've started with but wish I had bought a little different press. I have even just recently bought an Amazon digital scale (I'm still kicking myself). And I couldn't agree with you more on the RCBS Match Master die. That window is great. I wish I had seen this video in late 2018.
Have no fear about your Rock Chucker, it will crank out some awesome ammo until you find a different press. I may be a little biased though, you can see what’s behind me on my bench!
Honest video - Thanks fer sharing. Video's like these can always help many people learn, atleast a thing or 2, & as always, I enjoy watching & learning from good, honest videos from non-egotistical-know-it-all's that usually don't know any more than any one else. Thanks again - look'n forward to more.
As far as comparators go , Hornady makes a good set. Sinclair and Short Action Customs make superb comparator sets. SAC is the measurement store for sure.
I can't argue with any of it, I am following the same path. Lee six pack pro for 223, 9mm, and 40S&W. MEC Marksman and Redding and Forster dies for accuracy.
Good job! I think you're right. Invest in the good stuff right off the bat. Save tons of $$$ down the road. That's exactly what I'm telling the ol'lady. I'm Savin Money Baby 😁
I struggled with that going on the list for a long time while making this, only thing that kept it off the list was price. 90% or more of reloaders just can’t or don’t want to spend that much on a piece of equipment. Is it worth it though, ABSOLUTELY! Lol probably some of the best money spent.
5: Annealer: Worth it. Brass life is improved, but more importantly neck tension consistency is better which leads to better accuracy. Case prep and neck tension are huge contributors to final accuracy. Flame annealing is adequate, but induction is probably more accurate. Does it make a difference on the paper? Thats the part that open for discussion. 4: Dies: Does a premium die make better ammo? I dont believe so. As long as the die is made correctly it shouldnt matter. Alot of match winning ammo has been loaded with Lee dies. The big thing that more expensive dies offer is better fit and finish and ease of use. The RCBS Match Master is a good example of a feature on a die. The sleeve on a seating die is a great feature that does make a difference. If you want to expand this conversation into arbor presses and straight line seaters, then thats a discussion. 3: Comparators are a needed tool. The Hornady set is adequate, but you have to remember that they arent precision made like something like a SAC set. You have to remember that everyone measuring techniques are slightly different and the tools themselves are all slightly different, so its important to use your modified case and your comparators in your rifle and learn to be consistent in your technique. A reasonably decent set of calipers is also needed. You dont need set of Mitutoyo's, but a set of iGaging's are more than adequate. Its also worth your while to have a set in 6" and 8". The 8s are great for using on a comparator. 2: Components are key as you pointed out. Bullets, brass and barrels are the most important part of making accurate ammo. I shoot alot of different manufacturers, but over time Ive found Bergers and Peterson or Lapua brass to be the brass option. Not to say I cant make a Sierra or a Hornady shoot, its just that its all about consistency. 1: Powder dispenser is one of best things Ive every purchased as well. Started with a RCBS CM1500, but the accuracy of FX-120i scale with something like an AutoTrickler on it? You cant compare it. Shooting ammo with an SD of 5 is one of those things that takes the excuses away on why you might have missed. The thing you missed? A chronograph. Even a loop style is better than nothing. You need that data. Without that data you might as well just be guessing. Also helps with doing load development as you can shoot a Satterlee which will give you hints on where you should start with very quickly and in most cases it works. Just buy one.
@@jaredanderson2009 👍 Ive bought 4 things that really got my reloading game on point: Annealeez, LabRadar, AutoTrickler, Giraud. Spendy, but worth every penny, but could be done cheaper and still be effective. My old CM1500 was accurate enough, a loop chrono will get data even if its a pain, the Annealeez isnt that much and Giraud can be done way cheaper as well just more work. I bought a few things that I consider to be mandatory though and are not expensive. Mandrels, Hornady comparator set, good decapping die, VLD style chamfer tool and a quality manual scale. I still consider a great mechanical scale to be the measuring stick over a cheap electronic, so my old RCBS 505 will never leave my bench even though I own an FX120i.
Just an alternative here: velocity can be determined by shooting a group on paper at let’s say 300 yards and then calculating the difference between point of aim and point of impact. Take that into a ballistics calculator and you can get velocity without a chrono. BUT I agree that just getting a chronograph is easier. lol
question; when you full length size the length of the case usually gets longer and affects the cases OAL which brings me to the question how do you calculate the shoulder bump in say .002" if the OAL of the case increases by say .004 ? Now if all you do is shoulder bump then the required .002 is easy to calculate but who just shoulder bumps ?
That’s what makes that comparator so valuable, it’s the only way to measure how far back you bump the shoulder. The OAL will grow but that’s indifferent to the shoulder bump measurement. I think that answers your question right? It’s hard to type out some questions/answers for reloading. If there’s enough interest I can do a whole video about this topic
@@jaredanderson2009 a video with drawing pics on a board while your talking would be good and while your at it maybe a simple explanation between concentricity and bullet/case runout again using the board drawing pics to explain. As far as shoulder bump goes all I see is the body of the case getting longer after full length sizing which pushes the shoulder out further which when you use the comparator before sizing it may be 1.400 but after sizing it may be 1.403. I'm not getting it and I can assure you many other reloaders are not getting it either they just don't want to say anything :)
When you size your bumping your shoulder back, which makes the neck of your brass grow longer which is why it changes OAL. Figures/drawings would probably help for sure! I’ll add this to the brainstorming list for videos. Thanks for your feedback!!
Chronograph is a great point! I think an argument could be made that it can bump out something on the list. Cheap chronos work but sometimes they cause more hassle than good so buying a good chrono off the bat is a great piece of advice.
@@chiefmachining7972 You're right it's way easier with a chronograph, and I'm not suggesting that people shouldn't get one. All I'm saying is that all of it can be done without a Chrono. Even SD and ES, but for that part you'd have to go downrange between each shot and measure. huge waste of time obviously. Not that you would, just that you could. Honestly I'm not really sure why I even mentioned it in the first place. LOL
The Annealeeze really does work. I purchased one before Christmas and guess what? I got one for Christmas... Anyone need one?? NEW in BOX.. Message me and you can get a great deal.
What are your top 5 must have reloading tools?
#1. Make sure you can actually aquire primers before even deciding if you're going to reload or not.
#2 make sure you have brass to reload.
#3 make sure you have access to multiple powders to reload the aforementioned brass
This guy is spot on!!! I basically have had the same experience with the same products. His list of what to buy is great recommendations.
Thanks for the comment. Jared has a wealth of knowledge when it comes to reloading.
Pretty darn good list of items.
I own the burstfire annealer. It also serves as a brass processor. I anneal every time. The yellow box are the best. Green and red are ok.
I’ve been reloading for years here’s what to look at if your gonna start reloading. Primers can you find them and afford them. If your gonna buy a magnum type round slow burning magnum powders are usually the hardest to find. Retumbo, H1000, Reloader 26 are worth a lot of money to a lot of people that have more money than I do. Good bullet selection has been pretty consistent. Most powders are available but pick and chose what calibers your gonna reload. Sometimes it’s cheaper and easier to buy factory if your only shooting a few rounds a year
Good advice. I would add 1 other and that is a paper notebook or something electronic to record your components and results
That’s a good one, I’ve been old school with paper notebooks, kind of fun to look back over the years as well
Good stuff man !been doing this for about 60 years always new stuff coming out new things to try pass the old stuff on to your bodies who are just getting started
After going through the precision rifle, reloading journey I totally agree with your advice. I would add that with electronic scales that it’s necessary to have a higher quality beam scale to check them every now and again. Sidenote, I’ve had terrible luck with Lyman electronic scales. RCBS lite has outperformed and exceeded my expectations.
I love my FA Intellidropper... Best thing I ever bought.
Been great for me as well!
Amen, Amen, amen. . . As a person who started reloading in 2019 and has had to navigate the lack of components for my new passion, I can't agree more with you. I'm at that spot in my reloading now where I'm coming to the same conclusion espoused in this video. I love my RCBS Rock Chucker I've started with but wish I had bought a little different press. I have even just recently bought an Amazon digital scale (I'm still kicking myself). And I couldn't agree with you more on the RCBS Match Master die. That window is great. I wish I had seen this video in late 2018.
Have no fear about your Rock Chucker, it will crank out some awesome ammo until you find a different press. I may be a little biased though, you can see what’s behind me on my bench!
I bought 3 priming tools before my PMA tool. Wish I had started there.
Honest video - Thanks fer sharing. Video's like these can always help many people learn, atleast a thing or 2, & as always, I enjoy watching & learning from good, honest videos from non-egotistical-know-it-all's that usually don't know any more than any one else. Thanks again - look'n forward to more.
Glad it was helpful!
Great advice!
As far as comparators go , Hornady makes a good set. Sinclair and Short Action Customs make superb comparator sets. SAC is the measurement store for sure.
SAC has been killing it lately. Great products.
Hey nothing wrong with your experience and list . If it works , I appreciate your advice . Thanks for keeping it real 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I can't argue with any of it, I am following the same path. Lee six pack pro for 223, 9mm, and 40S&W. MEC Marksman and Redding and Forster dies for accuracy.
Good job! I think you're right. Invest in the good stuff right off the bat. Save tons of $$$ down the road. That's exactly what I'm telling the ol'lady. I'm Savin Money Baby 😁
After months of testing my 6.5 Creedmor, my best load was a 140gr. Hornady with RL 15.
At 81, I shoot1.5" groups. I wet tumble w/o those pins !
Solid presentation
Thanks!
Context, Reloading...what items do you think are most important?
Lots of good comments! Keep ‘em rolling if you have any questions or input!!
Giraud trimmer should be up there
I struggled with that going on the list for a long time while making this, only thing that kept it off the list was price. 90% or more of reloaders just can’t or don’t want to spend that much on a piece of equipment. Is it worth it though, ABSOLUTELY! Lol probably some of the best money spent.
With the Lee APP in the background filled with rifle cases Lee must have a place in precision rifle.
Totally! I like a lot of Lee products, that APP is actually a really awesome machine that’s earned it’s spot in my rotation.
Lee makes a ton of great products for a great value. Everything has it's place, and for a lot of my reloading Lee is the go-to.
Buy the best you can afford if you're going to shoot a lot. This is the path to shooting more than ever
5: Annealer: Worth it. Brass life is improved, but more importantly neck tension consistency is better which leads to better accuracy. Case prep and neck tension are huge contributors to final accuracy. Flame annealing is adequate, but induction is probably more accurate. Does it make a difference on the paper? Thats the part that open for discussion.
4: Dies: Does a premium die make better ammo? I dont believe so. As long as the die is made correctly it shouldnt matter. Alot of match winning ammo has been loaded with Lee dies. The big thing that more expensive dies offer is better fit and finish and ease of use. The RCBS Match Master is a good example of a feature on a die. The sleeve on a seating die is a great feature that does make a difference. If you want to expand this conversation into arbor presses and straight line seaters, then thats a discussion.
3: Comparators are a needed tool. The Hornady set is adequate, but you have to remember that they arent precision made like something like a SAC set. You have to remember that everyone measuring techniques are slightly different and the tools themselves are all slightly different, so its important to use your modified case and your comparators in your rifle and learn to be consistent in your technique. A reasonably decent set of calipers is also needed. You dont need set of Mitutoyo's, but a set of iGaging's are more than adequate. Its also worth your while to have a set in 6" and 8". The 8s are great for using on a comparator.
2: Components are key as you pointed out. Bullets, brass and barrels are the most important part of making accurate ammo. I shoot alot of different manufacturers, but over time Ive found Bergers and Peterson or Lapua brass to be the brass option. Not to say I cant make a Sierra or a Hornady shoot, its just that its all about consistency.
1: Powder dispenser is one of best things Ive every purchased as well. Started with a RCBS CM1500, but the accuracy of FX-120i scale with something like an AutoTrickler on it? You cant compare it. Shooting ammo with an SD of 5 is one of those things that takes the excuses away on why you might have missed.
The thing you missed? A chronograph. Even a loop style is better than nothing. You need that data. Without that data you might as well just be guessing. Also helps with doing load development as you can shoot a Satterlee which will give you hints on where you should start with very quickly and in most cases it works. Just buy one.
Chronograph is a great point! That’s for sure top of the list as a must have for reloading
@@jaredanderson2009 👍
Ive bought 4 things that really got my reloading game on point: Annealeez, LabRadar, AutoTrickler, Giraud. Spendy, but worth every penny, but could be done cheaper and still be effective. My old CM1500 was accurate enough, a loop chrono will get data even if its a pain, the Annealeez isnt that much and Giraud can be done way cheaper as well just more work.
I bought a few things that I consider to be mandatory though and are not expensive. Mandrels, Hornady comparator set, good decapping die, VLD style chamfer tool and a quality manual scale. I still consider a great mechanical scale to be the measuring stick over a cheap electronic, so my old RCBS 505 will never leave my bench even though I own an FX120i.
Just an alternative here: velocity can be determined by shooting a group on paper at let’s say 300 yards and then calculating the difference between point of aim and point of impact. Take that into a ballistics calculator and you can get velocity without a chrono.
BUT I agree that just getting a chronograph is easier. lol
@@PrecisionRifleNetwork True, but math and measuring is hard 🙂
Oh, hi Jared. I found your name in the video description.
Howdy!
question; when you full length size the length of the case usually gets longer and affects the cases OAL which brings me to the question how do you calculate the shoulder bump in say .002" if the OAL of the case increases by say .004 ?
Now if all you do is shoulder bump then the required .002 is easy to calculate but who just shoulder bumps ?
That’s what makes that comparator so valuable, it’s the only way to measure how far back you bump the shoulder. The OAL will grow but that’s indifferent to the shoulder bump measurement. I think that answers your question right? It’s hard to type out some questions/answers for reloading. If there’s enough interest I can do a whole video about this topic
@@jaredanderson2009 a video with drawing pics on a board while your talking would be good and while your at it maybe a simple explanation between concentricity and bullet/case runout again using the board drawing pics to explain.
As far as shoulder bump goes all I see is the body of the case getting longer after full length sizing which pushes the shoulder out further which when you use the comparator before sizing it may be 1.400 but after sizing it may be 1.403. I'm not getting it and I can assure you many other reloaders are not getting it either they just don't want to say anything :)
When you size your bumping your shoulder back, which makes the neck of your brass grow longer which is why it changes OAL. Figures/drawings would probably help for sure! I’ll add this to the brainstorming list for videos. Thanks for your feedback!!
# 1 try to find primers first. Lol
Amen! 🙏
This man is both handsome and informative
Hmm same last name as Jared…this compliment seems biased…😂
Chronograph
To anneal or not, that is the question.
Brass from blue box
Bullets from yellow box.
This is a great answer. 🤙
Forget the most important a chronograph
I agree it’s important, but you can figure out speed easily without of chrono. So in that sense, maybe not essential, just nice to have?
Chronograph is a great point! I think an argument could be made that it can bump out something on the list. Cheap chronos work but sometimes they cause more hassle than good so buying a good chrono off the bat is a great piece of advice.
@@PrecisionRifleNetwork Yeah maybe guess? Can't get SD or ES or really develop a load without a chronograph
@@jaredanderson2009 They're all work pretty well just don't hit lol
@@chiefmachining7972 You're right it's way easier with a chronograph, and I'm not suggesting that people shouldn't get one. All I'm saying is that all of it can be done without a Chrono. Even SD and ES, but for that part you'd have to go downrange between each shot and measure. huge waste of time obviously. Not that you would, just that you could. Honestly I'm not really sure why I even mentioned it in the first place. LOL
That scale crap out on you yet? Im on my second and its making some funny noises
No issues with mine, I have about 5k rounds on it at the moment. I’ve heard others say the same as you though.
Chronograph?
Who is this goofball? No introduction. Where's the bearded fella?
the introduction was a "lower third" title on the bottom left of the screen when the video first started.
My, aren't you a ray of sunshine.
@@billbennett9537 lol. I didn't mean it with any ill will. Just razzin a bit. Sometimes text doesn't come off right.
@@joshuagibson2520 That's a fact, subtleties don't transfer well often times. All good sir.
Goofball and bearded fella are probably the best nicknames for the two of us I have ever heard 😂
I found you on instagram this morning , lol. I sent you a message . Sub'd. Crazy world man.
Nice!
The Annealeeze really does work. I purchased one before Christmas and guess what? I got one for Christmas... Anyone need one?? NEW in BOX.. Message me and you can get a great deal.
Yo you still got he extra annealeeze I would buy it