Actually some of us like to understand WHY we're doing things, and his 'waffling' tip about storing the chain tool with bike pump is excellent since I've just experienced exactly the situation he described. I used to check my chain regularly with the tool and a metal ruler but having never seen any wear at all I started to let it slip. Checked it yesterday and the chain checker dropped straight down to the 1.0 reading. If I'd kept it handy with the floor pump instead of in a parts box in the cupboard I likely would have noticed the wear sooner. What is 'waffling' to you is valuable information for others.
@@chocolate_squiggle Yea? Well let him do the "waffling" at the END of the video, after those who came here for the instruction learn how to use the tool first.
I don't know why its like that either, should be in a cock-up splint position but like what the other said. Doctor's know best. We don't know the history, so we can't conclude.
Sorry that was a bit lame, the important shot where you demonstrate how a worn chain swallows the prong on the checker was obscured by by the mechanics arm/hand.
This doesn't explain the biggest problem with chain checkers - they're totally blind to roller diameter tolerance. Chain checkers can and do fail brand new chains. As far as I know, it's better to use a caliper and measure the pitch under tension.
Hanging the old chain next to a new one (cut to the same number of links) from a nail is also an easy way to confirm wear. Chain checkers are not perfect but are so easy to use regularly and accurate enough on the KMC 9spd chains I use.
also . just guessing what you are talking about because I can't see through your hand. how hard would it have been to turn your stand round and film it from the other side? Off to see if I can find a better video now.
Ok, when you change the chain late you have to chain the cassette too, else the drivetrain won't work adequately; or so they say. Any comment about this?
@@draugmithrin I deleted my comment because you edited/corrected yours. Note also that many inferior chains are inexpensive but the better/best chains go from $35 to around $200 with most quality chains in the $50-60 range. 9 speed is relatively inexpensive overall.
The KMC 9spd chain on my road bike is at 3200 miles (mostly on dry roads). I've had chains wear ( 0.5%) at less than 1500 miles if riding in winter, bad weather or off-road. I use Squirt wax-based chain lubricant and try to keep the chain clean.
i checked my chain today. It had 4,500km on it since i last changed it 12 months ago, and it was more than 1% stretched. Mind you, i never cleaned the chain in the past year, and lubricated it only when it got noisy, and rode in muddy conditions
Stephen, it varies by a very wide margin. I've had chains last 1500 miles and one that lasted 10,000 miles (!) until it read .47% (electronic digital gauge/caliper used). It depends on the terrain your ride in (dusty, wet, muddy, clean, dry, etc.), the quality of the chain you buy (YBN is one of the best for example), how clean you keep your chain, how often you lube your chain, and, the quality of the lube you use.
Thanks for the advice. I had my wife listen and she reported what was said. It seemed to me to not matter in terms of the importance of the presented facts. Maybe it's just me.
Useful bit starts at 3:06! Wow bike guys like to waffle!
Actually some of us like to understand WHY we're doing things, and his 'waffling' tip about storing the chain tool with bike pump is excellent since I've just experienced exactly the situation he described. I used to check my chain regularly with the tool and a metal ruler but having never seen any wear at all I started to let it slip. Checked it yesterday and the chain checker dropped straight down to the 1.0 reading. If I'd kept it handy with the floor pump instead of in a parts box in the cupboard I likely would have noticed the wear sooner. What is 'waffling' to you is valuable information for others.
@@chocolate_squiggle Yea? Well let him do the "waffling" at the END of the video, after those who came here for the instruction learn how to use the tool first.
That is by far the most awkward and dysfunctional position I’ve seen for a wrist in a cast.
Doctor knows best :P
It makes me hurt looking at it...
I don't know why its like that either, should be in a cock-up splint position but like what the other said. Doctor's know best. We don't know the history, so we can't conclude.
Its not the doctor making the cast/splint though ;)
@@Annekromhout but he can advise the person who will do it. Doctor's can do it, orthopedic Doctor's, physiotherapist...
Thankyou - was perfect for me and you explained how to use the Shimano TL-CN42 perfectly
Sorry that was a bit lame, the important shot where you demonstrate how a worn chain swallows the prong on the checker was obscured by by the mechanics arm/hand.
This doesn't explain the biggest problem with chain checkers - they're totally blind to roller diameter tolerance. Chain checkers can and do fail brand new chains. As far as I know, it's better to use a caliper and measure the pitch under tension.
Hanging the old chain next to a new one (cut to the same number of links) from a nail is also an easy way to confirm wear. Chain checkers are not perfect but are so easy to use regularly and accurate enough on the KMC 9spd chains I use.
also . just guessing what you are talking about because I can't see through your hand. how hard would it have been to turn your stand round and film it from the other side? Off to see if I can find a better video now.
Do we need to shift to the outer chain ring and smallest cog first before measuring? Or it does not matter at all?
It doesn't matter what gear you're in for these tools to work as long as there's tension on the chain.
Thanks Paul.
Ok, when you change the chain late you have to chain the cassette too, else the drivetrain won't work adequately; or so they say. Any comment about this?
When I waited until the chain was over 0.75% I used to have to replace the cassette as well, safer to change at 0.5%, always have a new chain at hand.
@@lazurm You are right have edited out just over, chains are cheap. I stick to 9 speed for easy maintenance and cost.
@@draugmithrin I deleted my comment because you edited/corrected yours.
Note also that many inferior chains are inexpensive but the better/best chains go from $35 to around $200 with most quality chains in the $50-60 range.
9 speed is relatively inexpensive overall.
How many miles roughly does a chain last. Thanks.
The KMC 9spd chain on my road bike is at 3200 miles (mostly on dry roads). I've had chains wear ( 0.5%) at less than 1500 miles if riding in winter, bad weather or off-road. I use Squirt wax-based chain lubricant and try to keep the chain clean.
i checked my chain today. It had 4,500km on it since i last changed it 12 months ago, and it was more than 1% stretched. Mind you, i never cleaned the chain in the past year, and lubricated it only when it got noisy, and rode in muddy conditions
Stephen, it varies by a very wide margin. I've had chains last 1500 miles and one that lasted 10,000 miles (!) until it read .47% (electronic digital gauge/caliper used). It depends on the terrain your ride in (dusty, wet, muddy, clean, dry, etc.), the quality of the chain you buy (YBN is one of the best for example), how clean you keep your chain, how often you lube your chain, and, the quality of the lube you use.
Remember when Cycling Weekly was a quality, specialist magazine?
I understand. But why dont you look to the camera
Don't listen to a gun with broken arm or you will end up with the same if you follow his advice
Thanks for the advice. I had my wife listen and she reported what was said. It seemed to me to not matter in terms of the importance of the presented facts. Maybe it's just me.
Hey CW editors! Please stop doing that trendy editing thing where the presenter is looking at the wrong camera. It's just weird.
Please do a Apple Watch series 4 cycling review
cheeky, Hahahaha