Thank you so much for going into detail. This video answered everything I needed for my project. In particular it was very useful to see the results with 18v input, output 20a. I want to use this buck to make a portable lab supply and lifepo charger powered from 18v drill batteries.
For those, who suffering to get this thing working right with solar panels, let me tell you something. As i'm a electrician, i do exactely what is wrong and it's not a good one. The module itself is pretty good, in curtain voltages you can get those 1000W easily but when it comes to solar power, it lacks some features. There are few problems and one maybe two solving for this. 1- when the module fall in to LVP ( low voltage protection ) it will not recover itself ) and you have to manually turn the module off and on. 2- the cooling fan is pretty much useless on higher power , it will one way or another overheat or shut down due to the temperature. The solution: 1- the charging voltage for the battery should be less then a 15 volts difference between your battery and the maximum power point on your panel's label. If you have a battery with 28.4 or 28.8V ( lead acid ones ) you need to consider a maximum power from your panel and adjust a charging current with 2 or 3A less. That´s because when you load your panel too much, the voltage will drop obviously and the module will fall in to a LVP. The another solution but more expensive is to add one or two panels parralel to your existing ones, but they must be the same otherwise you'll could potentially loose some power so you don't want to waste more than you already wasting with this setup and module 🤷 so for 300W clean power you'll need at least one panel more to have " 600W " but u'll be using only 300.. So when you don't mind, you could go also this way but when you care about every single watt gained from the sun, it's better to buy proper MPPT regulator with 50A output, it will cost around 170€ of 200 dollars but in the end you'll be much better than banging your head all over again above this chinese module. 2- the cooling fan is sh!t and need's to be replaced with bigger fan pointing directly at the heatsink, not from the side. That's it. I have one, i've also tested it and came up preeeety good for the value but keep in mind the values that i mentioned. 300 equals 600 or so.. but there is more. When you have a big solar panel with high ocV above 40V, the best setup is 12V or 14.4 . Yes, it gives you less power but hey, 14.4x20 is almost 300 so one module for two panels will be good enough i think. When you paralel those panels it gives you much more current and the voltage does't drop that much when shaded
Я рада, что тебе понравилось. Я перс / таджик из Афганистана. Первоначально назывался Хорасан. Народ Афганистана не афганец. Афганцами являются лишь небольшие меньшинства.
I have the higher voltage version of this module WZ10020L (100V 20A) 1kW with MPPT. While the PWM part of it works fine and robustly built unlike most other Chinese buck or boost DC-DC converters, the MPPT implementation is garbage. A couple of problems with it. The fatal problem is that it won't start up properly (switching between a low voltage and a high voltage set point and get into an endless loop and unable to come out of it). This can happen if the solar panels get shaded and the MPPT algorithm tries to adjust for it. This can happen any time, not just at start up. In this case, you have to physically turn the main power switch and off and on. A definite deal breaker. The second problem is not fatal but its MPPT tracking voltage is not optimum. It delivers much less power from the panels than possible. This unit requires a separate review and how MPPT works. This is not a trivial problem especially if the solar panel(s) I-V curve has local maximum in the power transfer function.
trying for the 3. time to post without consoring : hello, I guess I will have same problem: I would put this module between a solar panel and a DC motor. I can set "under voltage protection". Good. But if the module shut down the motor because of shadings, then the voltage would instantly rise again because motor is off, and the module would start again the motor, which will drop voltage, etc. Do you know a solution, an other module like this one, but with implemented "minimum off-time" setting to only let module try again after x minutes, or an other idea?
@@bastienbux3682 If you don't have a battery to provide inrush current to your motor, this problem can't be easily solved. Provided you can take care of the inrush current, you might have to build an external circuit with a comparator, relay & timer to sense the voltage drop and time out the restart of the DC-DC converter. I have done this in the past. However the bigger issue is that this unit is not very intelligently designed and not a good fit for certain applications.
@@samw3086 th for the answer. No, I did not put a battery. I do not want it. It is a 100W panel providing direct energy to 6 fans in parallel. Each one does have soft start. It is actually good for me if they are only working in a sunny situation (for ventilation). Below 8V, they do not start anymore but they try all the time and make weird noises; I do not think this is good on long-term use. As you say, I guess I rather need a module which shut of fans under 8 Volts and a timer, and a relais between the two. PWM is a nice feature for the fans though, I may still buy this one, I did not really found anything else. Much are way worse or do not accept more than 5Amps. (I need at least 10Amps acceptance to be safe) Thanks for your help.
Thanks for the video..please I have a question....I want use it to run a 10w diode laser using a 7 or 8s lithium battery set up......the 10w laser board need 10a 24v supply...CAN IT BE USED ?....since it has stable cc cv features ...thanks
can it output a limited current at 4A and constant 54,6v? the input is 54,6v(constant) and the current is variable between 0A-9A. i want to limit the max current but not shutdown and keep volts
Hi, very nice and informative video. I have similar buck module, Can you advise how to increase output voltage, say to 53V? Can we somehow modify the voltage output setting a bit higher? Since there is almost similar module named Wz10020L capable of handling input voltage up to 110v. Except the capacitor voltage rating and extra relay & fuse, I cannot see any other significant difference to the 5020L. Any suggestion? Thanks 👍
Hi. I just bought this module and I'm having a problem. When I hooked everything up, nothing came on. Then I pressed the on/off button/knob, and saw the faint "on" light. But nothing on the screen. When I checked the output with my multimeter, it read that it was outputting 3 volts. Can you help me figure this out?
I want to controll it remotely via the serial port. Can you provide a link to any direction on how to do this. E.g. modbus instruction codes etc. Thanks.
Hi, sorry for lat reply. it does not have option to control is via seial port. if you see any connector, these are for manufature to upload the code this module.
Great video, as always. What was the voltage and amperage setting of the feeding power supply you set at ? I mean, if input is 30v 5a, can you double output amperage to 10a if you set the converter to 15v and 10a ?
Sir, i accidentally reverse polarity at the input, and now it won't turn on. I've tested the input with multimeter, and it says/beeping (short circuit), is there any chance i can repair it, or i should just buy another one?
To recharge a LiFePo4 battery, it is often recommended to recharge without absorption. In other words, if I set the recharge to 3.65v at 20a, as soon as the amperage drops below 20, the recharge stops (and the battery voltage will be around 3.35v). It's said that this is better for the battery's lifespan. But I can't find the option to do this on this machine. Does anyone have a solution or know if it's not possible for me to stop looking?
Se enciende con la temperatura pero no verifiqué qué temperatura. Proporciono eficiencia que incluye todo el consumo de energía. Por favor, no olvides suscribirte para hacer más videos.
Hi, friend! Help me please, I applied 120 volts to this device (wz5020l) and it is out of order. What was the first part to break? I checked the fuse, it works. Thank you.
Hi, is the output the same as the input? If yes then the main Switching device is dead or does not receive PWM signal . I am not sure how to check it as I don’t have module in hand.
These are great EXCEPT......using them for solar charging lifepo4 batteries. They suck at solar charging! Once a cloud comes over it shuts off LVP and never recovers. You have to manually reset or restart it. So usless for solar battery charging unless they include a new option to auto recover from fault mode, and also it has to have the option to switch between CC mode (constant current where voltage reduces) or CV mode where voltage is constant and current reduces. I believe these would just be software changes not hardware. Then you would have a fantastic product. Unless i am missing a setting, dont buy one for solar charging batteries. But while the sun is out they work fantastic. So frustrating these settings have been missed.
@WattHour 🤷🏻♂️ I reset the protection voltage and current and seem okay now. I can't adjust voltage while the motor is running; get a black out again. 🤦♂️ Should be fine for my purpose. Thanks
Thank you for the information. I was thinking to buy similar model (there are many similar DC-DC) And looks like they are all using it. But was afraid to buy. If it will burn - no way to fix without IC model name. Now why not to buy)
I have tested and shown full specs. We have minimum and maximum if you don’t respect it, you will damage it. Please watch and see what was the maximum voltage that I tested it.
I need a power Supply that I can set the voltage and current by USB, i2c or something like that to control by raspberry pi 4. Do you know something like this?
J6 is connected to the N76E003 MCU, and is serial (VCC, TX, RX, GND). underneath it at the edge of the board, a lot smaller is the IPC port used for programming/debugging (VCC, IPCCK, GND, RST, IPCDA)
Батарейки не заряжать! Горит этот модуль от обратки. Потом на выходе столько-же сколько и на входе и на табло IN - горит 5.5.35V (что бы ты не менял в настройках). Ни один продавец и их тех. службы не смогли мне найти решение проблемы!
If you see my other videos, I have shown components, it seems people did not appreciate it and even told me video is long so I tried to make it shorter.
@@WattHour Yes, understood, but i'm wondering what the advantage or the point is of using a DC power supply to send power into another DC power supply? It seems great if you could use like a laptop power supply or something instead of a large DC bench power supply. Do you have a link to a compact DC power supply that will work?
@@AllAroundTube50 this is not a power supply, its a buck converter. you need a constant power supply as source to it so it will adjust the output as you need with good efficiency.
The best video about this device. This is more than review, this is also user manual!
Thank you so much for going into detail. This video answered everything I needed for my project. In particular it was very useful to see the results with 18v input, output 20a. I want to use this buck to make a portable lab supply and lifepo charger powered from 18v drill batteries.
Glad it was helpful! Good luck with your projects.
For those, who suffering to get this thing working right with solar panels, let me tell you something. As i'm a electrician, i do exactely what is wrong and it's not a good one. The module itself is pretty good, in curtain voltages you can get those 1000W easily but when it comes to solar power, it lacks some features. There are few problems and one maybe two solving for this.
1- when the module fall in to LVP ( low voltage protection ) it will not recover itself ) and you have to manually turn the module off and on.
2- the cooling fan is pretty much useless on higher power , it will one way or another overheat or shut down due to the temperature.
The solution:
1- the charging voltage for the battery should be less then a 15 volts difference between your battery and the maximum power point on your panel's label. If you have a battery with 28.4 or 28.8V ( lead acid ones ) you need to consider a maximum power from your panel and adjust a charging current with 2 or 3A less. That´s because when you load your panel too much, the voltage will drop obviously and the module will fall in to a LVP. The another solution but more expensive is to add one or two panels parralel to your existing ones, but they must be the same otherwise you'll could potentially loose some power so you don't want to waste more than you already wasting with this setup and module 🤷 so for 300W clean power you'll need at least one panel more to have " 600W " but u'll be using only 300.. So when you don't mind, you could go also this way but when you care about every single watt gained from the sun, it's better to buy proper MPPT regulator with 50A output, it will cost around 170€ of 200 dollars but in the end you'll be much better than banging your head all over again above this chinese module.
2- the cooling fan is sh!t and need's to be replaced with bigger fan pointing directly at the heatsink, not from the side.
That's it. I have one, i've also tested it and came up preeeety good for the value but keep in mind the values that i mentioned. 300 equals 600 or so.. but there is more. When you have a big solar panel with high ocV above 40V, the best setup is 12V or 14.4 . Yes, it gives you less power but hey, 14.4x20 is almost 300 so one module for two panels will be good enough i think. When you paralel those panels it gives you much more current and the voltage does't drop that much when shaded
I think this is the one i am looking for…please make more videos like this..thank you very much..
Очень подробно, нереально информативно. Большое спасибо за обзор!
Я рада, что тебе понравилось. Я перс / таджик из Афганистана. Первоначально назывался Хорасан. Народ Афганистана не афганец. Афганцами являются лишь небольшие меньшинства.
This is well thought! Excellent work! Keep it up!
Clear, detailed and informative! Thank you.
Your review is very good! Like an example of a review for other channels!
I have the higher voltage version of this module WZ10020L (100V 20A) 1kW with MPPT. While the PWM part of it works fine and robustly built unlike most other Chinese buck or boost DC-DC converters, the MPPT implementation is garbage. A couple of problems with it. The fatal problem is that it won't start up properly (switching between a low voltage and a high voltage set point and get into an endless loop and unable to come out of it). This can happen if the solar panels get shaded and the MPPT algorithm tries to adjust for it. This can happen any time, not just at start up. In this case, you have to physically turn the main power switch and off and on. A definite deal breaker. The second problem is not fatal but its MPPT tracking voltage is not optimum. It delivers much less power from the panels than possible. This unit requires a separate review and how MPPT works. This is not a trivial problem especially if the solar panel(s) I-V curve has local maximum in the power transfer function.
trying for the 3. time to post without consoring : hello, I guess I will have same problem: I would put this module between a solar panel and a DC motor. I can set "under voltage protection". Good. But if the module shut down the motor because of shadings, then the voltage would instantly rise again because motor is off, and the module would start again the motor, which will drop voltage, etc.
Do you know a solution, an other module like this one, but with implemented "minimum off-time" setting to only let module try again after x minutes, or an other idea?
@@bastienbux3682 If you don't have a battery to provide inrush current to your motor, this problem can't be easily solved. Provided you can take care of the inrush current, you might have to build an external circuit with a comparator, relay & timer to sense the voltage drop and time out the restart of the DC-DC converter. I have done this in the past. However the bigger issue is that this unit is not very intelligently designed and not a good fit for certain applications.
@@samw3086 th for the answer. No, I did not put a battery. I do not want it. It is a 100W panel providing direct energy to 6 fans in parallel. Each one does have soft start. It is actually good for me if they are only working in a sunny situation (for ventilation). Below 8V, they do not start anymore but they try all the time and make weird noises; I do not think this is good on long-term use. As you say, I guess I rather need a module which shut of fans under 8 Volts and a timer, and a relais between the two. PWM is a nice feature for the fans though, I may still buy this one, I did not really found anything else. Much are way worse or do not accept more than 5Amps. (I need at least 10Amps acceptance to be safe)
Thanks for your help.
Can you suggest me please?
1.Hi brother This module can use with solar panel to module stepdown to inverter??
2.This module can MPPT??
Такое хорошее видео!👍 странно почему так мало лайков.
thank you for the detailed information!
you are welcome.
Thanks So Much for your Time.
My pleasure!
Thanks for the video..please I have a question....I want use it to run a 10w diode laser using a 7 or 8s lithium battery set up......the 10w laser board need 10a 24v supply...CAN IT BE USED ?....since it has stable cc cv features ...thanks
In description of this product, it says input voltage 0-55volt. Can i use my 60v dc power supply? Would 60v break it?
thanks for sharing how to calibrate
Very useful. Thank you so much!
can it output a limited current at 4A and constant 54,6v? the input is 54,6v(constant) and the current is variable between 0A-9A. i want to limit the max current but not shutdown and keep volts
Thanks for doing this video. Have you found any information on the rs485 interface?
Cool.
Do you think, can I use the 5V (fan "port") to add another 5v fan? Under 1A is it will be okay?
Hi, now sure. I don't have the module on hand to know.
Hi, very nice and informative video.
I have similar buck module, Can you advise how to increase output voltage, say to 53V?
Can we somehow modify the voltage output setting a bit higher?
Since there is almost similar module named Wz10020L capable of handling input voltage up to 110v. Except the capacitor voltage rating and extra relay & fuse, I cannot see any other significant difference to the 5020L.
Any suggestion? Thanks 👍
Hi. I just bought this module and I'm having a problem. When I hooked everything up, nothing came on. Then I pressed the on/off button/knob, and saw the faint "on" light. But nothing on the screen. When I checked the output with my multimeter, it read that it was outputting 3 volts.
Can you help me figure this out?
Very good review..going on every feature.. thank you
I want to controll it remotely via the serial port. Can you provide a link to any direction on how to do this. E.g. modbus instruction codes etc. Thanks.
Hi, sorry for lat reply. it does not have option to control is via seial port. if you see any connector, these are for manufature to upload the code this module.
Thank You !
You are welcome
Excellent video ! Thanks !
Great video, as always. What was the voltage and amperage setting of the feeding power supply you set at ? I mean, if input is 30v 5a, can you double output amperage to 10a if you set the converter to 15v and 10a ?
I have done all the possible test that would fit most standard voltage and current. you gott get it from video. from values closer to your value.
Sir, i accidentally reverse polarity at the input, and now it won't turn on.
I've tested the input with multimeter, and it says/beeping (short circuit), is there any chance i can repair it, or i should just buy another one?
Can you suggest me please?
1.Hi brother This module can use with solar panel to module stepdown to inverter??
2.This module can MPPT??
You can use it like a PWM controller, but definitely not MPPT.
Отличный обзор 👍👍👍
Я рада, что тебе понравилось.
Can we input 60v? Please answer it :((
Good review!
No matter what setting i have enabled , i keep getting the error “LUP” or low voltage protection. any help?
To recharge a LiFePo4 battery, it is often recommended to recharge without absorption. In other words, if I set the recharge to 3.65v at 20a, as soon as the amperage drops below 20, the recharge stops (and the battery voltage will be around 3.35v). It's said that this is better for the battery's lifespan. But I can't find the option to do this on this machine. Does anyone have a solution or know if it's not possible for me to stop looking?
Can you recommend a suitable power supply for this module (the 1000w model)
How much minimal current that that display can measure?
Please watch within skipping.I have shown the specs and minimum and maximum current . You will have no why if you watch it fully
@@WattHour without skipping*
Great video. Can you tell if it heats a lot if stays on for like more than 2 hours?
when the temperature does not increase it means it will stay warm but not heated. this is very cool.
감사합니다
nice
video Tanks
Can it survive short circuit? Thanks.
Yes
Yes ⚡🔌💡👍
Perfect rewiev
Very good vídeo... Does this work on a 36v panel solar system to convert fixed to 28v? (panel voltage may fluctuate during the day). Thanks
Yet it will.
감사합니다
천만에요.
Gracias . El ventilador a que temperatura actúa? O es por amperaje?
Se enciende con la temperatura pero no verifiqué qué temperatura. Proporciono eficiencia que incluye todo el consumo de energía. Por favor, no olvides suscribirte para hacer más videos.
@@WattHour ok gracias. He notado que Salta el ventilador a los 5 amperios, pero no sé a la temperatura
Nice video. Please does it stop charging when Battery is fully charged?
yes it will stop charging if you set proper voltage and current. it seems haven't watch the video. Please watch I have explained it.
@@WattHour Thank you very much
Very good test sir
Thanks and welcome
Hi, friend!
Help me please, I applied 120 volts to this device (wz5020l) and it is out of order. What was the first part to break? I checked the fuse, it works. Thank you.
Hi, is the output the same as the input? If yes then the main Switching device is dead or does not receive PWM signal . I am not sure how to check it as I don’t have module in hand.
Thank you
The best thank you for me is to subscribe to my channel. Your subscription is stamp of rating to my channel and others can find me too. Thanks
These are great EXCEPT......using them for solar charging lifepo4 batteries. They suck at solar charging! Once a cloud comes over it shuts off LVP and never recovers. You have to manually reset or restart it. So usless for solar battery charging unless they include a new option to auto recover from fault mode, and also it has to have the option to switch between CC mode (constant current where voltage reduces) or CV mode where voltage is constant and current reduces. I believe these would just be software changes not hardware. Then you would have a fantastic product. Unless i am missing a setting, dont buy one for solar charging batteries. But while the sun is out they work fantastic. So frustrating these settings have been missed.
Hi, it's been a long time now, what advice is to buy this?
Hi, I just reviewed it few weeks ago. I've provided links in the description or just search on eBay or AliExpress.
Tried running a small dc motor at 10amp 3v.
Screen blacks out but motor still spins slowly.
Any help is appreciated?
backout means short circuit I suppose.
@WattHour 🤷🏻♂️ I reset the protection voltage and current and seem okay now.
I can't adjust voltage while the motor is running; get a black out again. 🤦♂️
Should be fine for my purpose.
Thanks
cleared and not readed 16 pin chip ic is HT9901 also known as EG2113D
Thank you for the information. I was thinking to buy similar model (there are many similar DC-DC) And looks like they are all using it. But was afraid to buy. If it will burn - no way to fix without IC model name. Now why not to buy)
Does this have input reverse polarity protection?
all featurs have been explained. I don't remember anything. Please watch to get the answer.
@@WattHouris the ripple okay for charging batteries? Because it has over 100mv peak to peak at some voltages?
Great Video's, Very informative. Would be interested in your thought on a ZK-4KX CNC DC DC Buck Boost Converter
if the seller of the item pays me and send me the module, I will gladly make review of it.
Do you still use this product. I want to buy wz5020l but I am worried of quality for using long term. Thanks for detailed video.
I used only once to demonstrate and record the video.
@@WattHour thanks for quick answer.
they have removed the component numbers so you cant fix it rubbish ???????
Can I use it with solar panels
I don't remember if this module has MPPT. if so yes.
Can i input this to 58v or like that?
I have tested and shown full specs. We have minimum and maximum if you don’t respect it, you will damage it. Please watch and see what was the maximum voltage that I tested it.
I need a power Supply that I can set the voltage and current by USB, i2c or something like that to control by raspberry pi 4. Do you know something like this?
Riden RD6018 Programmable 60V 18A 1080W Buck Converter | WattHour
th-cam.com/video/45V_c-nweHY/w-d-xo.html
Mine just say lvp and won't turn on and I'm using 25v psu. Sending back.
Thanks for the review. Has anyone seen a 3D printable case model for this one?
Hi Michael.
Did you find a nice 3D printable case?
@@hommerdalor6301 I didn't, no.
Input voltage AC or DC ?
DC
What is J6 ? 8:14 shows two rows of holes between screen/key connectors.
I am sorry, where in the video? it is hard for me to find it. please mention time like 12:36 so I click and see.
J6 is connected to the N76E003 MCU, and is serial (VCC, TX, RX, GND). underneath it at the edge of the board, a lot smaller is the IPC port used for programming/debugging (VCC, IPCCK, GND, RST, IPCDA)
hi can replacement that microcontroller NUVOTON N76E003AT20 and please can you reprogram?
You can’t program it as we don’t know how it was programmed.
Please. What is the parameter of d10?
Hi, it is SS110. I will post the full images for this product in the resources page where the link is in description of video.
@@WattHour thank you :)
is this possible to use bench power supply
You meant to use this? Yes you can.
Hi please review wuzhi 500w PW500 boost converter
Hi, tell them to contact me. if they pay me, I will make the reveiw.
Батарейки не заряжать! Горит этот модуль от обратки. Потом на выходе столько-же сколько и на входе и на табло IN - горит 5.5.35V (что бы ты не менял в настройках). Ни один продавец и их тех. службы не смогли мне найти решение проблемы!
Hey......Mr Robojax?....now you have me confused!....?? What happened?
this is WattHour. LOL
@@WattHour Haha....i think you have kidnapped Mr Robojax and are forcing him to make new videos for you! ;=)
"Download datasheet and resources for WZ5020L: @t ". Only order links, at least add links for major components described in video.
Hello, the resources page has been updated watthour.ca/wz5020l
Try the new WZ10020L! It has mppt.
tell them to contact me. I will do the review.
@@WattHour ok I got you!
Give the bucks buying link for india brother
How to Test input 60v 10 a
maximum input is 55V. it might just smoke.
Не пойму зачем выключатель на главной плате? Кто знает?
Разве в вашем вопросе не содержится ответ?
My converter has output voltage of 0V. CC (Constant current) is always activated.Why? th-cam.com/video/RdQKxgC8cQQ/w-d-xo.html
just watch the video. I belive I have show the exact settings. I dont remember which part but it is difinately the settings.
@@WattHour The problem was the burned 20A fuse in the output of the module
this is a con they have taken all the numbers of the ic,s so you cant fix it show a pic that shows all the components numbers
If you see my other videos, I have shown components, it seems people did not appreciate it and even told me video is long so I tried to make it shorter.
Why use a DC power supply to run a DC power supply?
this module needs DC at the input. So how would you power it up?
@@WattHour Yes, understood, but i'm wondering what the advantage or the point is of using a DC power supply to send power into another DC power supply? It seems great if you could use like a laptop power supply or something instead of a large DC bench power supply. Do you have a link to a compact DC power supply that will work?
@@AllAroundTube50 this is not a power supply, its a buck converter. you need a constant power supply as source to it so it will adjust the output as you need with good efficiency.