Do you not have a Quick Change Tool post? i am sure we can get this man one! it makes a big difference!!!! the AXA are really good! cutting, you can see the end is wobbling a lot. to part, you may need to move the part closer to the chuck for more stability. as you can see by the 2nd parting you did it was much smoother. i think the flycutter would have been a better option for you as mentioned. i think it would have been easier and came out better. over all i lvoe the work you do bud! keep it up!!!! i love watching your projects!!!!
Very soon (I hope), I will upgrade to a higher technical level. Until then, I'm not ashamed to admit I still have a lot to learn. I feel like I'm slowly gaining experience and I'm starting to become more confident. Two months ago I was using gloves when I was working :)) I know I will never be a like a pro because this is just a hobby of mine, but posts like yours make me feel noticed. And that means a lot to me.
You should never let the thread go all the way trough the t-nut.You can bottom out the screw and destroy your table.Take a punch and deform the last turn of the thread at the bottom of the t-nut.Or take a look at a commercial t-nut and see how they made it.
Yes, I thought about this risk, but not about the solution you offered. I will warp the thread like you say and go for short screws that won't pose a risk to the milling table. I will be very careful about this aspect. Thank you for the idea and for alerting me to the risk of damaging the table.
You can buy these with the thread all the way through, and with the thread stopped, as you say. Both have their place. But for most uses a stopped thread is best.
What a complicated and extended way to get some T-nuts! Precision where it isn't needed. Here is what I do: 0. Remove the vise from the mill table. 1. Select stock that is equal to or a bit bigger than the finished width and height. 2. Slap a foot or more of the stock on the mill table. 3. Use clamps ON ONE EDGE to hold it down on the table. Leave at least 1/2 of the width exposed for cutting. Precision alignment is not needed at this stage. 4. Mill the un-clamped half to the final height. 5. Move the clamps, one at a time, to the other edge. 6. Mill the un-clamped half to the final height. The full width of the stock should now be at the final height. 7. Turn the stock over, align it fairly close to the table's movement, and clamp it down on one side,. The side that is up will be the bottom of the finished T-nut. 8. Mill the corner of the un-clamped side to the finished width of the bottom of the T-nut. Go deep enough to bring all of the lower part of the T-nut to dimension but do not cut into the table. The bottom is now finished. 9. Turn it over and clamp it on the same edge again. 10. Mill the top of that edge to it's final width and depth for your table slots. 11. Move your clamps to the other edge, one by one to preserve the alignment of the stock. 12. Mill the top of the other, un-clamped edge to it's final width and depth for your table slots. The Tee shape should be finished. 13. Decide how long you want you finished T-nuts to be and add the width of your saw's kerf. Mark the hole spaces according to this dimension. 14. Punch, drill, and tap the holes before cutting the individual nuts apart. It's a lot easier that way. 15. Put a sacrificial bolt in the tapped holes and toss them in a tumbler. Run it overnight. 16. Heat treat them as desired. If you use 4140 prehard steel and make them about 25% longer than commercially available T-nuts, it probably won't be necessary. 99. Put the vise back on the table and align it.
They look like they could be much taller so the tops are just below the bed. This will give more thread to hold different thicknesses with the same screw.
Yes, it would have been better if they were thicker, but unfortunately I don't have a thicker metal plate. However, I will only use them for precision vise and rotary table, where a carefully chosen screw will do a good job. Right now these are my only options. Thank you for your comment and for your suggestion !
Mild steel can not water or oil harden, but as stated heat and oil bluing is a great anti rust treatment and is more durable to cold bluing. Deez nuts look good.
t-nuts are not precision parts. the keys under the compound slide are responsible for precision. (as you have shown in your other video). using the t-nuts for this is over-constraining the system
But in certain situations (I saw on TH-cam videos) they play an important role in certain precision setups. This may be where my confusion comes from. Thank you for your comment !
@@JIMMY916 post a link to those videos. i am curious. normally, the nut and the bolt allow for enough play to let another thing (aka the key) handle the registration.
There was a video where he was talking about how important it was for the T-nuts to be quality to not allow the precision settings he had made to move. It was a setup he made from some metal blocks on which he had placed a piece with a very strange shape. Unfortunately, I don't know whose video it was but his idea to use this t-nuts was quite interesting. For those like me :))
@@JIMMY916he’s right. They’re designed to hold a clamp or something in place. They’re not designed for precision. High quality t-nuts are stronger and nicer looking, but have a lot of slop so that dirt and small chips don’t prevent them sliding in the slot. But if it does what you want, and it’s not dangerous, fine.
Thanks for the video brother, nice job, smooth operation! 😃👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you my brother ! I am honored that you appreciate my work.
Do you not have a Quick Change Tool post? i am sure we can get this man one! it makes a big difference!!!! the AXA are really good! cutting, you can see the end is wobbling a lot. to part, you may need to move the part closer to the chuck for more stability. as you can see by the 2nd parting you did it was much smoother.
i think the flycutter would have been a better option for you as mentioned. i think it would have been easier and came out better.
over all i lvoe the work you do bud! keep it up!!!! i love watching your projects!!!!
Very soon (I hope), I will upgrade to a higher technical level. Until then, I'm not ashamed to admit I still have a lot to learn. I feel like I'm slowly gaining experience and I'm starting to become more confident. Two months ago I was using gloves when I was working :)) I know I will never be a like a pro because this is just a hobby of mine, but posts like yours make me feel noticed. And that means a lot to me.
You should never let the thread go all the way trough the t-nut.You can bottom out the screw and destroy your table.Take a punch and deform the last turn of the thread at the bottom of the t-nut.Or take a look at a commercial t-nut and see how they made it.
Yes, I thought about this risk, but not about the solution you offered. I will warp the thread like you say and go for short screws that won't pose a risk to the milling table. I will be very careful about this aspect. Thank you for the idea and for alerting me to the risk of damaging the table.
@@JIMMY916 punching the last thread is easy and cheap. i think even commercial t-nuts just do that
You can buy these with the thread all the way through, and with the thread stopped, as you say. Both have their place. But for most uses a stopped thread is best.
What a complicated and extended way to get some T-nuts! Precision where it isn't needed.
Here is what I do:
0. Remove the vise from the mill table.
1. Select stock that is equal to or a bit bigger than the finished width and height.
2. Slap a foot or more of the stock on the mill table.
3. Use clamps ON ONE EDGE to hold it down on the table. Leave at least 1/2 of the width exposed for cutting. Precision alignment is not needed at this stage.
4. Mill the un-clamped half to the final height.
5. Move the clamps, one at a time, to the other edge.
6. Mill the un-clamped half to the final height. The full width of the stock should now be at the final height.
7. Turn the stock over, align it fairly close to the table's movement, and clamp it down on one side,. The side that is up will be the bottom of the finished T-nut.
8. Mill the corner of the un-clamped side to the finished width of the bottom of the T-nut. Go deep enough to bring all of the lower part of the T-nut to dimension but do not cut into the table. The bottom is now finished.
9. Turn it over and clamp it on the same edge again.
10. Mill the top of that edge to it's final width and depth for your table slots.
11. Move your clamps to the other edge, one by one to preserve the alignment of the stock.
12. Mill the top of the other, un-clamped edge to it's final width and depth for your table slots. The Tee shape should be finished.
13. Decide how long you want you finished T-nuts to be and add the width of your saw's kerf. Mark the hole spaces according to this dimension.
14. Punch, drill, and tap the holes before cutting the individual nuts apart. It's a lot easier that way.
15. Put a sacrificial bolt in the tapped holes and toss them in a tumbler. Run it overnight.
16. Heat treat them as desired. If you use 4140 prehard steel and make them about 25% longer than commercially available T-nuts, it probably won't be necessary.
99. Put the vise back on the table and align it.
:)) Thank you for watching and for your time ! Your comment inspires me.
They look like they could be much taller so the tops are just below the bed. This will give more thread to hold different thicknesses with the same screw.
Yes, it would have been better if they were thicker, but unfortunately I don't have a thicker metal plate. However, I will only use them for precision vise and rotary table, where a carefully chosen screw will do a good job. Right now these are my only options. Thank you for your comment and for your suggestion !
Mild steel can not water or oil harden, but as stated heat and oil bluing is a great anti rust treatment and is more durable to cold bluing. Deez nuts look good.
Thank you very much for your comment ! I'm not a fan of cold bluing but it is a frecvent used method too.
вылет резца можно и уменьшить..
Yes, there are many things to improve. Thank you for your comment !
t-nuts are not precision parts. the keys under the compound slide are responsible for precision. (as you have shown in your other video). using the t-nuts for this is over-constraining the system
But in certain situations (I saw on TH-cam videos) they play an important role in certain precision setups. This may be where my confusion comes from. Thank you for your comment !
@@JIMMY916 post a link to those videos. i am curious. normally, the nut and the bolt allow for enough play to let another thing (aka the key) handle the registration.
There was a video where he was talking about how important it was for the T-nuts to be quality to not allow the precision settings he had made to move. It was a setup he made from some metal blocks on which he had placed a piece with a very strange shape. Unfortunately, I don't know whose video it was but his idea to use this t-nuts was quite interesting. For those like me :))
@@JIMMY916he’s right. They’re designed to hold a clamp or something in place. They’re not designed for precision. High quality t-nuts are stronger and nicer looking, but have a lot of slop so that dirt and small chips don’t prevent them sliding in the slot. But if it does what you want, and it’s not dangerous, fine.
Tttttt...-NUTZZZ! 🤣
:))