I saw a modelling company that made old school metal miniatures for 6mm scale. They were able to spin the mold with a machine , so the centrifugal force pushed the metal into all the details. It was brilliant.
I've recently used blue stuff to clone the old bilbo model (by wrapping the bluestuff fully around it) to make a full mold of the mini, cut away by his feet (I left the tab on) and poured in UV resin to take an invisible Bilbo for when he's wearing the ring, blue stuff is great 😁
@@toomanyminis. I made a well so I could pore it in and I wrapped clear tape around it just in case to hold it together, but pretty much that's all I did
So you can make two part moulds. You press it in like I’m this video and then when it’s hard you place another bit of oyumaru on top but it’s very hard to get the right amount of green stuff in the mould for casting. I’ve not had a lot of success with press moulding two piece moulds.
@@seanwilliams7073 For two-part molds here are some tips (although I have had variable success I do get the odd good result depending on what I'm casting) - first use a bit more blue stuff than you need to surround the model. Cast one side as brilliantly demonstrated in the above video - but before the mold cures, push the end of the chopstick around the outside of the model to make little pits in the mold - this will be useful for lining up the two sides of the mold later. Next wait for it to cure (or drop it in cold water, but don't remove the model from the mold just yet! Next prepare your blue stuff for the other half of the mold, and squidge it over the top of the remaining have of the model, pushing it down well to get the detail and also fill the little pits you made with the chopstick earlier. Drop it in the cold water again. If the first half was sufficiently cured, it should be easy to separate the two halves of the mold. As Ossie says it can be difficult to guage the correct amount of greenstuff you need, but fill the space, and push down hard, using the chopstick holes (and equivalent pegs) to get things lined up nicely. I like to leave overnight to cure fully, with some additional pressure, so try and balance a heavy book on top (you can mess it up if you apply too much pressure at an angle). There'll likely be a lot of flash, but this should be easy to trim , and you can file down the seems with an emmery board. HTHs p.s. it might be a challenge to do a spear - give it a try but if you get a cast of the hand and arm, and the spear head - consider replacing the spear shaft with a brass rod or similar..
![[Gegagedigedagedago] NEW Help Gegagedigedagedago Nugget escape from Nikocado Avocado Challenge](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hJWnwRC2Fz8/mqdefault.jpg)
So simple, yet effective. Great tutorial, Ossie!
I saw a modelling company that made old school metal miniatures for 6mm scale.
They were able to spin the mold with a machine , so the centrifugal force pushed the metal into all the details. It was brilliant.
I believe spin casting is still how it’s done for metals at GW too. Not sure about their resin.
This is amazing!! Please keep up these technical hobby videos. Really enjoyed the magnets video too
I am very lazy. And this is the easiest tutorial for cloning/casting bits I have ever seen.
Can't wait to try it.
Love this. Thank you. If I can do it you can do it.
Amazing, thank you. Great video
Thanks for doing the vid mate!
I've recently used blue stuff to clone the old bilbo model (by wrapping the bluestuff fully around it) to make a full mold of the mini, cut away by his feet (I left the tab on) and poured in UV resin to take an invisible Bilbo for when he's wearing the ring, blue stuff is great 😁
So you poor thr UV resin straight into the blue stuff mould without any problems? I’m a bit intimidated by resin.
@@toomanyminis. I made a well so I could pore it in and I wrapped clear tape around it just in case to hold it together, but pretty much that's all I did
Would this work for something like Rivendell spears which are a bit more 3-dimensional than shields?
So you can make two part moulds. You press it in like
I’m this video and then when it’s hard you place another bit of oyumaru on top but it’s very hard to get the right amount of green stuff in the mould for casting. I’ve not had a lot of success with press moulding two piece moulds.
@@toomanyminis. Thanks, I might give it a try, worse case I waste a little green stuff.
@@seanwilliams7073 For two-part molds here are some tips (although I have had variable success I do get the odd good result depending on what I'm casting) - first use a bit more blue stuff than you need to surround the model. Cast one side as brilliantly demonstrated in the above video - but before the mold cures, push the end of the chopstick around the outside of the model to make little pits in the mold - this will be useful for lining up the two sides of the mold later. Next wait for it to cure (or drop it in cold water, but don't remove the model from the mold just yet! Next prepare your blue stuff for the other half of the mold, and squidge it over the top of the remaining have of the model, pushing it down well to get the detail and also fill the little pits you made with the chopstick earlier. Drop it in the cold water again. If the first half was sufficiently cured, it should be easy to separate the two halves of the mold. As Ossie says it can be difficult to guage the correct amount of greenstuff you need, but fill the space, and push down hard, using the chopstick holes (and equivalent pegs) to get things lined up nicely. I like to leave overnight to cure fully, with some additional pressure, so try and balance a heavy book on top (you can mess it up if you apply too much pressure at an angle). There'll likely be a lot of flash, but this should be easy to trim , and you can file down the seems with an emmery board. HTHs
p.s. it might be a challenge to do a spear - give it a try but if you get a cast of the hand and arm, and the spear head - consider replacing the spear shaft with a brass rod or similar..
This is the way.