NEW Do you want to IMPROVE YOUR CAREER as a PAINTER or PAINTING CONTRACTOR? If so, you'll want to visit: www.Expressions... How to cut a straight line like a pro www.Expressions...
I just painted my landlords house who resides in the home to do touch ups...my intentions were as pure as Easter but I mismatched the colors by accident somehow 🙃😅
Been painting for over 40 years (my own stuff) and I learned one little thing thing from this video (getting that excess paint off the top of the bristles on that narrow side). Worked like a charm as I was cutting in today. Thanks!
@@ExpressionsPainting, also watched your trim and baseboard videos. Good info. Wife was extremely pleased with the job I did on the dining room and living room. See some others bad-mouthing your techniques. Hey, your advice helped me do a better job than my just slappin' paint on the walls of years past. Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the great video. I tried your technique yesterday and it worked really well. Biggest takeaway was that I wasn't using the brush properly. Getting rid of excess paint on the tip and letting the middle of the brush deliver the paint was an eye opener. Tried it over the doors first and did the whole room without having to tape. I'm not a painter (my guy was booked up) and this was really helpful for a large bathroom. Saved a lot of time.
This is my most aggravating step in painting and you made it into a smooth process that I just have to practice. The cutting and feathering (fade in and out) was explained easily for an inexperienced painter
I’m a professional painter (30 plus years). The Dude in the video has good skills and good advice for the diy-ers. I’d add: use a high quality angled sash brush with a “firm” to “very firm” bristle formulation, 2 to 2 1/2 inch wide and use a high quality “spatter” free wall paint. Some of the cheaper paint “trails” the brush from the bucket to the wall, resulting in long drips on the wall and will spatter on woodwork
Lol If you painted that many years you should know how to handle a brush and not allow those drips. If it does drip just use your wet rag that you should always have on you. If it hits the wall just feather it out and keep it moving.
The angle brush makes a huge difference. I have found a smaller brush about 45mm or say 1½" works best for me but I'm an ammature. I agree with using a thicker paint. Eg today I'm using a stain blocker, instantly thicker out of the can/tin. So much easier to get good coverage without drips.
stiff brush? no way. 2 inch brush on a wall? LOL... no, too small, too many strokes, less paint distribution. 2.5 - 4 inch is best. sash only work in one direction. a true wall brush can work in both directions.
Thanks for sharing. I saw a comment, “That’s why this guy is a pro, and we’re not.” From watching this video I have every confidence I can do it right. Thanks for sharing. I watched a plumber sweat pipe for a water heater. My friends that know plumbers for years said I didn’t do the job myself. Catch the important points. You made important points very clear. Thank you so much.
or you can use painters tape........... even a long drywall mud knife can act as a barrier between what you are painting and the area you want to keep clean
Great vid man! I painted professionally for years, and was fortunate to have an experienced painter teach me how to paint. I always get in that age old argument with the DIY’ers who are utterly shocked to see me painting and cutting a room without using painters tape, and I tell them if you use the proper brush for the job and learn how to use it, you’ll actually save time by not having to tape up everything. When I was trained, literally the first thing the man said to me was “If I ever catch you using painters tape, you’re out of of job because it slows the crew down and costs me money”.
This demo was very good, giving small useful tips for non professionals, doing small jobs in home on weekends.getting equipments, raw mat, &other misc. mat, like waste cloth etc.
Thank you so much! Your video is the first one that actually gives tips that work!! After watching your video I applied your techniques and finished my bathroom walls/floorboards without tape .... thank you !!!!!
I like 3 for walls 2 for trim . The straight line starts with the first coat. Often its possible to cut once and roll twice. Being rested and relaxed is also very important.
I been a painter for military contracts since 1999.the old man that taught me was a 3rd generation painter.so I know a thing or two.Good job kid.you made a video that would be valuable to any beginner (and some journeymen).
Hey man.. I'm a decorator in the UK and would like to thank you for all your hints and tips!! gotta get me some of those brushes!! great channel! Thank you.
Definitely a pro. Notice that he loads his brush by quickly slapping it 3-4 times against the side of the can, not by lifting it up and wiping it off against the inner rim. His method is faster, doesn't compress the bristles as much or as unevenly as wiping them against the rim, doesn't create a mess inside the can from the rim down, and also leaves more paint in the brush, which means that reloading is also less frequent.
You are awesome! Thank you for your tutorial on how to do a cut in. I'm working on window trim right now and tried the technique and it worked SO much better than my old process (tape and prayer). I will definitely be sending people to your channel in the future!!!
As a designer with enough info, I advice you to use washable glossy paint for bathrooms for next time if you already finished. Moisture is a huge problem ~ if you are using dry normal Paint, it isn't ideal and will come off in dear sweet short time :( Of course tiling bathroom walls is much more efficient Good luck :)
Can I ask what kind of brush are you using and when you’re done painting how do you get all the paint off of it? Also, if you have to stop in between, do you recommend wrapping the paint brush in plastic bag???
also I use masking tape on skirting because when you start painting with a roler, then many dots need to be clean etc.etc. It takes some few minutes but you are safe for all work, all day to the end...specialy if need second coat.
I've been painting for 50 years, after 4 year apprenticeship. I've found that a straight, rather than an angle brush allows one to cut in in both directions. speed equals money.
Yes correct... Priming the brush before starting the job says brother of the brush... Note how he taps both sides of the inside of his can before applying the paint... Thats to put 'er [paint] heavy on the brush [so you get good distance when applying/efficiency] and in same breath taking off more of the paint than is needed to help prevent dripping or sagging in drying paint after applying... In essence it's giving you enough paint on the brush to let you go far in spread distance but not too much that you may end up with too much on the surface that you get the drip or sagging issues... Basically it's the middle ground or lukewarm region between hot and cold... It gives decent coverage ability that way too... [Meaning cut in gets the smeary paint look where not enough paint was applied and you can see the paint coat beneath you are going over...] As for the tapping on inside of paint can and preparing to cut along ceiling corner line in video you saw the painter work backwards into the paint that was already applied... I would do exactly that then... I personally would have gone back the opposite way a second time along the ceiling corner to straighten that paint line to laser straight and worked the brush outwards from the paint you just applied... The key in painting is working it in [rolling or cutting] BOTH directions... In all aspects of painting... When you don't you get speckles in your wall rolling and uneven/un-straight to the eyeball ceiling lines... 'Oh and that slopping of the paint he did before starting to cut the ceiling corner line??? Thats called priming the axe... So you know the difference between it and priming the brush even though both terms relate to priming the brush in preparation for the spreading/applying... Cause axes cut well... Just a way to understand when speaking about it while training... Both instances of priming are needed to get a good cut line none the less... Otherwise you will load up that corner and you won't like the end result... Opposite of straight as a laser line...
as a painter myself those were definitely good tips. ....1- Always get a good brush (preferably a stiff or med stiff... better brushes are rated) definitely worth the money as they are re-usable after a good wash.... 2- have a cutting can with approx 1 inch of paint in it..... I was taught the and have been "loading" my brush the same way as you did in this video by dipping into paint & then BANGING the brush on the can side to side (it allows the paint "inside" the brush) ... too many people dip & then wipe off most of the paint on the can .... 3- excellent tip of painting close to but not right to the edge , followed by the "perfecting" of the 2nd cut ..... this is OVERALL significantly faster and insures ideal coverage .... and great tip of long elongated and ideally un-interrupted strokes when the brush is properly loaded (should be able to stroke twice or longer than demonstrated) and great tip of fading paint .............. also great tip on to be careful of the paint that is sitting on top of the brush once you push the brush onto the wall ...
You need to talk about the first stroke where you are creating a paint reservoir to spread the paint. Moving it towards the center of the crease. Then. How its better to have a little excess on the ceiling than not enough on the walls. Also, I think its important to make the first cut as good as you can get it.I agree with straightening it out better later. But if you do it right the first time theres very little left to straighten. And you fly.I like your banjo music. I am the golden brush. Retired. I appreciate you helping others with your video. If you ever need my advice. I have 40 years experience as a journeyman painter, hanger.Good luck brother.
Good job, nice video. Just a tip for all the young and aspiring painters out there. Stay off your knees and stretch your legs. You will be to go faster and longer as you get older. ;)
Hey bro. I am a very beginner and I am in a job where I need to paint the house. Thehouse is painted already so mainly needs to have only one coat. But I feel very slow. In 16 hours of work I did one room and the ceiling of one toilet and some area in between rooms. The first 5 hours of the job my friend helped me
You're using a sash brush designed for window sashes and only meant to go in one direction. First year apprentice training, always finish into wet so you don't get jab marks.With acrylic paints like promar 200 it works best to roll first to avoid double coating at the cut in. You can control the cut to the rolled area. Try it it is much faster, saves paint and looks much better.
Most union trained tradesman do use a 3in straight cut for cutting in walls. The type of paint and humidity will determine the type of filaments needed.
I've been a professional painter and decorator for 20years.. trust me you'll never cut in like a pro because it takes years to master.. my advice would be to use frog tape. Hope that's helpful 👍
Daniel Biggs thank you,I have purchased some frog tape today. I took my time to put it on I’ve done 2 coats will do another coat tomorrow and fingers crossed, thanks for taking the time to reply you’re a star
@@MrBradblade no problem pal.. Another trick of the trade would be paint your ceiling the same colour as the walls. As long as the colour is not to dark you'll get away with it. Really does work. I paint new build houses. And alot of the big builders do it. A great colour to use is dulux almond white. You're celling will look white and your walls look almond white and perfect cutting in lines except you've done no cutting in👍
Slower you go = more wavey the line will be You have to go somewhat quick Also. Start the new colour on the old paint and work towards the new stuff you just cut in If you start where the new paint is and work towards the old paint You actually thin out the new colour and will have a harder time on the 2nd coat cause it will be thick then thin then thick then thin..
Agreed. Cannot detect any coverage issues on a second coat that is within say 1/8 inch from the outermost line of the first coat. Something else he didn't describe or show: A person can push a pencil into the ceiling/wall joint and slightly mark a line all the way around. Then, those hard to see corners are easily handled, because the smart painter can then see the joint. I am also right handed but learned to draw the brush in the opposite direction than that being shown. I will, however, use the right-to-left technique minimally to reach out before moving the ladder. Been painting professionally for 50 years and was taught by an expert back then.
And one more thing. Lots of time today's paint comes very thick - too dang thick to cut in properly. It is wise to thin the paint to be used for cutting in, so that it will flow properly allowing those longer strokes that make straight lines. Typically the paint can be thinned minimally in the cut-in bucket only and the applied straight from the bucket with rollers.
I learnt the easy way, keep the ceiling and the wall the same paint and colour and also put the same colour on the woodwork and dont look to close after. My paintwork lasts a minimum 20 years as white never goes out of fashion giving me more time to go out and enjoy my life.
I self taught myself this when painting my parents entire house before they put it on the market. I had painted before but this was the first time painting 10 rooms in a row over the Course of a few months on off days. First room I taped but it became really annoying and took way too much time and not to mention the cost. I tried several ways with a wet rag handy till I realized that the trick was to get a good amount of paint on the brush and paint the wall near the edge till the excess was off the brush then cut in in a long stroke with the tip of the angled brush towards the edge your cutting which pulls the paint toward that point but it's still a pain though but easier than taping for sure.
my tip is....don't by garbage $3.00 brushes. you don't have to spend $50 a brush, but get something decent that will hold it's shape a bit and wont have bristles falling out etc.
Mark Laker my pleasure :) If you haven't already, there's a lot more info that you could get at Expressions Painting University. Check out the PAINTER Training Program. It's FREE for now :)
I guess some painters just hope the homeowner doesn't look close enough to see the obvious difference from a proper 2-cut job and a single-cut lazy job.
Hi Remi! It’s sooo neat! What happens when you get some paint on the wood work? I used masking tape but it’s such a faff. I’d love to be able to do it like you are! Any advice?
Keep a damp cloth handy as it will wipe off easy before it drys. You can also look at caulking a new line and painting with a paint shield, but you will need very square and level walls to get a sharp line. One of the best things to do to practice cutting in sharp lines is the stick some masking tape in straight lines on a wall (that is going to be decorated) then practice cutting against the masking tape trying not to go over the line.
I can't say that I don't agree with your approach seeing how I am not there in person to see the end result. Having said this I would also encourage you not to discredit my approach for the exact same reason. Having said this, I personally find it much more efficient to do it this way and the end result is a really nice finish and a transition that is virtually unnoticeable from the roller finish to the brush finish.
@ Express painting... I've been painting for years and years... and I do it the same way you do... I think the most important thing I learned from the get go was knowing how much paint to have in/on my brush for the area I was painting... never over load your brush unless you want a mess on your hands.
How I wish I knew when I have the right amount of paint on my brush for cut-ins…and a steady hand so I can get that straight cut-in so effortlessly LIKE YOU DO! 😣
I’m in the process of decorating for the first time but I have t blended my edges so I can clearly see the difference between brush and roller. Can this be fixed? Tia!
He forgot to mention.. If you didnt notice He started the blue on the white/brown and drug the blue into the blue he just painted.. He didnt start on the blue and pull it towards the brown. If he started on the blue and worked into the brown. It actually pulls the paint away from the blue he just did and thins it out..resulting in thinner coat of blue.. Meaning you will have light spots and possible "picture framing" when its finished. Also makes the 2nd coat super hard cause it has to cover the 1st thin coat. And you usually have to put to much paint on the brush and then it gets all over the ceiling So when cutting in Pull the paint from the original wall colour INTO the new colour you just cut in.
Nit bad sir but I was taught that when you cut in a straight line you have to apply your paint both ways back and forth as you are making the actual line in order to make a perfect straight cutout, San Antonio Texas Painters
Thanks I liked the way you actually explined it. But I think you should have made more mention of how you use the end of the brush, not the flat side, as I would have done) It looks like using the end of the brush is they key.
Hello Rémi, first I would like to sincerely thank you for all of your helpful painting videos. I only have a year and a half of painting experience so I still have everything to learn. I'm curious if you have a preferred brand of brushes, roller sleeves and rollers. I work for a renovation and construction company in Québec and we buy Aqualine and Jasper brushes (mostly synthetic since we mostly work in latex paint) which are the best we've used so far. We try to always have an army of brushes on hand but we mostly use two and a half angle sash brushes and despite cleaning and storage, they still lose their form and spring after two job sites max. I've heard there are brushes and sleeves that could last a lifetime! Same principle with roller sleeves (we never clean ours - just toss them) and we buy Richard, ,Rona, Uberhaus, or Simms rollers and sleeves. Any preferences or suggestions? And thank you again!
Hi Tiffany, I have never worked with those brushes but I can tell you that a brush being out of shape after 2 jobs doesn't seem normal to me. Two things are important in order to maintain the brushes: 1- Proper Cleaning (see my video about how to wash brushes and rollers) 2- Proper storage in their original cases As for the roller sleeves, typically a roller doesn't work the best the first time you use it. So if you're throwing it out after each use you're never working with a proper roller sleeve. This effect is more evident in wooven rollers. As for my preferred brushes I like Nours Nature's Palette and Wooster Extra Firm both in the 2.5 inch sash. For roller sleeves it depends on what I'm painting. Ceiling I prefer a thicker wooven roller from Purdy. Walls I prefer a micro fiber roller 13mm. For cages and extension poles I'm a big fan of Wooster mostly because of the quick release system :)
One more tip, something I watched him doing wrong. On ur last stroke before rewetting ur brush, always brush that stroke into the wet paint, don't just feather it out any which way. If you look closely when someone does this you will see where the brush landed in ur cut and left a mark whereas if ur last stroke finishes back into the wet you'll see nothing you don't want to show up in ur finish job
When you go back and forth with the brush you put paint on but then take it off. Go one direction unless it's textured walls and then you sometimes have to go back and forth
PLEASE ADVISE Great videos but the playlist is in a random order Please provide a list from first to last step Also I wanted to ask, you are cutting on top of the gloss paint around the door frames. Do you need to sand the shine off the gloss first or can you paint Matt straight onto gloss paint? Thanks in advance
Good tips. I'm now ready to practice on someone else's house.
I just painted my landlords house who resides in the home to do touch ups...my intentions were as pure as Easter but I mismatched the colors by accident somehow 🙃😅
😅👏👏👏👍👍
I had to comment twice 🤣👏👏
Facts
And get paid for it lol
Been painting for over 40 years (my own stuff) and I learned one little thing thing from this video (getting that excess paint off the top of the bristles on that narrow side). Worked like a charm as I was cutting in today. Thanks!
MacQ1955 Congratulations for being honest and open to see new opportunities for growth when they present themselves. Cheers!
@@ExpressionsPainting, also watched your trim and baseboard videos. Good info. Wife was extremely pleased with the job I did on the dining room and living room. See some others bad-mouthing your techniques. Hey, your advice helped me do a better job than my just slappin' paint on the walls of years past. Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the great video. I tried your technique yesterday and it worked really well. Biggest takeaway was that I wasn't using the brush properly. Getting rid of excess paint on the tip and letting the middle of the brush deliver the paint was an eye opener. Tried it over the doors first and did the whole room without having to tape. I'm not a painter (my guy was booked up) and this was really helpful for a large bathroom. Saved a lot of time.
Chuck Fulanovich you’re more than welcome. That’s really nice to hear. :)
Exactly what I was looking for, and you did it quickly without having to hear a super long video. Thanks!
This is my most aggravating step in painting and you made it into a smooth process that I just have to practice. The cutting and feathering (fade in and out) was explained easily for an inexperienced painter
As a painter of 10 years, cutting is my favorite part. It's the easiest once you get the technique down
I’m a professional painter (30 plus years). The Dude in the video has good skills and good advice for the diy-ers. I’d add: use a high quality angled sash brush with a “firm” to “very firm” bristle formulation, 2 to 2 1/2 inch wide and use a high quality “spatter” free wall paint. Some of the cheaper paint “trails” the brush from the bucket to the wall, resulting in long drips on the wall and will spatter on woodwork
Try using both hands to cut in as it is faster as u get more cut in done
Lol If you painted that many years you should know how to handle a brush and not allow those drips. If it does drip just use your wet rag that you should always have on you. If it hits the wall just feather it out and keep it moving.
The angle brush makes a huge difference. I have found a smaller brush about 45mm or say 1½" works best for me but I'm an ammature.
I agree with using a thicker paint.
Eg today I'm using a stain blocker, instantly thicker out of the can/tin.
So much easier to get good coverage without drips.
I will use my "firm" to "very firm" cock formulation.
stiff brush? no way. 2 inch brush on a wall? LOL... no, too small, too many strokes, less paint distribution. 2.5 - 4 inch is best. sash only work in one direction. a true wall brush can work in both directions.
Thanks for sharing. I saw a comment, “That’s why this guy is a pro, and we’re not.” From watching this video I have every confidence I can do it right. Thanks for sharing. I watched a plumber sweat pipe for a water heater. My friends that know plumbers for years said I didn’t do the job myself. Catch the important points. You made important points very clear. Thank you so much.
Thank you, so much!! I learned that I must "feather out" the paint, after I cut in. I appreciate the time + energy you took to make this video!
Okay. Done watching. Ready to pay someone to cut my lines for me. 💰
or you can use painters tape........... even a long drywall mud knife can act as a barrier between what you are painting and the area you want to keep clean
I feel it, same!
😅😅😅😅
Me too… If I could paint it straight, I would! Even tape makes a mess someone suggested caulking the tape… but I don’t have a week to paint 1 room.
Great vid man! I painted professionally for years, and was fortunate to have an experienced painter teach me how to paint. I always get in that age old argument with the DIY’ers who are utterly shocked to see me painting and cutting a room without using painters tape, and I tell them if you use the proper brush for the job and learn how to use it, you’ll actually save time by not having to tape up everything. When I was trained, literally the first thing the man said to me was “If I ever catch you using painters tape, you’re out of of job because it slows the crew down and costs me money”.
@@highnoter1 you wouldn't last 2 minutes on site then
Untenable position Duh, I think that’s the point…fuck that boss.
This demo was very good, giving small useful tips for non professionals, doing small jobs in home on weekends.getting equipments, raw mat, &other misc. mat, like waste cloth etc.
Thank you so much! Your video is the first one that actually gives tips that work!! After watching your video I applied your techniques and finished my bathroom walls/floorboards without tape .... thank you !!!!!
I like 3 for walls 2 for trim . The straight line starts with the first coat. Often its possible to cut once and roll twice. Being rested and relaxed is also very important.
True, and if your line is straight the first time, the second coat is much faster cause you don't have to get as close
Best video I've seen on cutting in...and boy have I been searching a lot. Thanks!
your hand is so smooth and you are so patient. loved watching this.. I guess you don't drink much coffee in the morning to keep the jitters down!
I been a painter for military contracts since 1999.the old man that taught me was a 3rd generation painter.so I know a thing or two.Good job kid.you made a video that would be valuable to any beginner (and some journeymen).
Hey man.. I'm a decorator in the UK and would like to thank you for all your hints and tips!! gotta get me some of those brushes!! great channel! Thank you.
you make it look so easy! Certainly easier than taping huge rooms or hallways!
tape's still useful for glass on window frames
for them razor sharp edges, and next to zero cleanup
That line cutting is just perfection. Love it 👍
I'm a painting contractor and have to admit good video. Straightening out cut on second coat is key
Definitely a pro. Notice that he loads his brush by quickly slapping it 3-4 times against the side of the can, not by lifting it up and wiping it off against the inner rim. His method is faster, doesn't compress the bristles as much or as unevenly as wiping them against the rim, doesn't create a mess inside the can from the rim down, and also leaves more paint in the brush, which means that reloading is also less frequent.
I always work faster when the banjo music is going! Good tips, thanks.
Thank you! I’m painting my dogs room and needed these helpful videos you made! 😃🐾🐺
You are awesome! Thank you for your tutorial on how to do a cut in. I'm working on window trim right now and tried the technique and it worked SO much better than my old process (tape and prayer). I will definitely be sending people to your channel in the future!!!
lol
This dude is a straight boss. Surgical in his technique.
I like the term "fade in" and "fade out", which really made sense.
Liang Wang thanks
Yeah I use to have a Fade In haircut for years but as I got older the Fade In Faded Out and now im FORCED to cut it Bald. 😂😂😂
Thanks. I'm about to paint 3 bedroom and 2 bathrooms. Oh Lordy....I need all the tips I can get and this is great.
As a designer with enough info, I advice you to use washable glossy paint for bathrooms for next time if you already finished. Moisture is a huge problem ~ if you are using dry normal Paint, it isn't ideal and will come off in dear sweet short time :(
Of course tiling bathroom walls is much more efficient
Good luck :)
Great video. I like how you showed the time lapse of doing the job at the end of the video. It's nice to see it being done in a DIY video.
That was time lapse?? Oh thank God
Cutting straight line is not an issue but it's very time consuming. I will try those edging tools next time.
Can I ask what kind of brush are you using and when you’re done painting how do you get all the paint off of it? Also, if you have to stop in between, do you recommend wrapping the paint brush in plastic bag???
Best tutorial hands down
Awesome straightforward video! I was doing it ALL WRONG! Thanks!
also I use masking tape on skirting because when you start painting with a roler, then many dots need to be clean etc.etc. It takes some few minutes but you are safe for all work, all day to the end...specialy if need second coat.
I've been painting for 50 years, after 4 year apprenticeship. I've found that a straight, rather than an angle brush allows one to cut in in both directions. speed equals money.
Yes correct... Priming the brush before starting the job says brother of the brush... Note how he taps both sides of the inside of his can before applying the paint... Thats to put 'er [paint] heavy on the brush [so you get good distance when applying/efficiency] and in same breath taking off more of the paint than is needed to help prevent dripping or sagging in drying paint after applying... In essence it's giving you enough paint on the brush to let you go far in spread distance but not too much that you may end up with too much on the surface that you get the drip or sagging issues... Basically it's the middle ground or lukewarm region between hot and cold... It gives decent coverage ability that way too... [Meaning cut in gets the smeary paint look where not enough paint was applied and you can see the paint coat beneath you are going over...] As for the tapping on inside of paint can and preparing to cut along ceiling corner line in video you saw the painter work backwards into the paint that was already applied... I would do exactly that then... I personally would have gone back the opposite way a second time along the ceiling corner to straighten that paint line to laser straight and worked the brush outwards from the paint you just applied... The key in painting is working it in [rolling or cutting] BOTH directions... In all aspects of painting... When you don't you get speckles in your wall rolling and uneven/un-straight to the eyeball ceiling lines... 'Oh and that slopping of the paint he did before starting to cut the ceiling corner line??? Thats called priming the axe... So you know the difference between it and priming the brush even though both terms relate to priming the brush in preparation for the spreading/applying... Cause axes cut well... Just a way to understand when speaking about it while training... Both instances of priming are needed to get a good cut line none the less... Otherwise you will load up that corner and you won't like the end result... Opposite of straight as a laser line...
I used to work for a painting company in Halifax. You're better than most of them. Keep being awesome.
Your video demonstrations are very helpful. Good tips very informative.
as a painter myself those were definitely good tips. ....1- Always get a good brush (preferably a stiff or med stiff... better brushes are rated) definitely worth the money as they are re-usable after a good wash.... 2- have a cutting can with approx 1 inch of paint in it..... I was taught the and have been "loading" my brush the same way as you did in this video by dipping into paint & then BANGING the brush on the can side to side (it allows the paint "inside" the brush) ... too many people dip & then wipe off most of the paint on the can .... 3- excellent tip of painting close to but not right to the edge , followed by the "perfecting" of the 2nd cut ..... this is OVERALL significantly faster and insures ideal coverage .... and great tip of long elongated and ideally un-interrupted strokes when the brush is properly loaded (should be able to stroke twice or longer than demonstrated) and great tip of fading paint .............. also great tip on to be careful of the paint that is sitting on top of the brush once you push the brush onto the wall ...
You need to talk about the first stroke where you are creating a paint reservoir to spread the paint. Moving it towards the center of the crease. Then. How its better to have a little excess on the ceiling than not enough on the walls. Also, I think its important to make the first cut as good as you can get it.I agree with straightening it out better later. But if you do it right the first time theres very little left to straighten. And you fly.I like your banjo music. I am the golden brush. Retired. I appreciate you helping others with your video. If you ever need my advice. I have 40 years experience as a journeyman painter, hanger.Good luck brother.
Straighten out imperfections in second coat is a good tip I’ll definitely try it
P
It normally takes me five coats to get them somewhere near acceptable. And by that time, I've gone half way across the ceiling too......
To this day I apply this trick to my jobs I do
Thanks mate, I followed these instructions and it worked great!
and just when you thought you were done... Here comes the second coat
Thanks for explaining your technique. Hope I can do an OK job on this project!
Good job, nice video. Just a tip for all the young and aspiring painters out there. Stay off your knees and stretch your legs. You will be to go faster and longer as you get older. ;)
Hey bro. I am a very beginner and I am in a job where I need to paint the house. Thehouse is painted already so mainly needs to have only one coat. But I feel very slow. In 16 hours of work I did one room and the ceiling of one toilet and some area in between rooms. The first 5 hours of the job my friend helped me
I just got a painting contract for a building and the cutting tips helped alot thanks
You're using a sash brush designed for window sashes and only meant to go in one direction. First year apprentice training, always finish into wet so you don't get jab marks.With acrylic paints like promar 200 it works best to roll first to avoid double coating at the cut in. You can control the cut to the rolled area. Try it it is much faster, saves paint and looks much better.
Most union trained tradesman do use a 3in straight cut for cutting in walls. The type of paint and humidity will determine the type of filaments needed.
Thank you very much for your help I feel more confident now that my job painting will be something to be proud of.....
mark clifford you’re welcome :)
Good video. I always feather off around plugs and light switches with a little rad roller. Just makes a nice transition.
Your work is so consistently excellent
That's why this guy is a pro, and we're not. Thank's for the tips.
That’s right ! This is a legend, such a great painter ! Get all my tips from him
You make it look like an art. Awesome tips thank you!
The banjo music is what sold me
I make attempts to play banjo. Does anyone know the name of the banjo music being played?
That is incorrect. I bought you from a gentleman named Mr. Black. That was not his real name.
Great tips.....use them all the time now ! It really does work.
You’ve got a great presentation style. I liked how there was no music until the FF, smart. Hang in there, your channel will grow.
I with they would create a painting robot. Just pour paint in to it and lock it in a room. Like a slow cooker. You come back and its done.
Thank you, thank you, thank you - no ego.. no drama.. no distractions
Is it possible to get a good paint job in one coat
I’ve tried tried and tried I’ve watched paint videos but I can’t get it right, actually why don’t you just come and do it for me, good work man
I've been a professional painter and decorator for 20years.. trust me you'll never cut in like a pro because it takes years to master.. my advice would be to use frog tape. Hope that's helpful 👍
Daniel Biggs thank you,I have purchased some frog tape today. I took my time to put it on I’ve done 2 coats will do another coat tomorrow and fingers crossed, thanks for taking the time to reply you’re a star
@@MrBradblade no problem pal..
Another trick of the trade would be paint your ceiling the same colour as the walls. As long as the colour is not to dark you'll get away with it. Really does work. I paint new build houses. And alot of the big builders do it. A great colour to use is dulux almond white. You're celling will look white and your walls look almond white and perfect cutting in lines except you've done no cutting in👍
Slower you go = more wavey the line will be
You have to go somewhat quick
Also. Start the new colour on the old paint and work towards the new stuff you just cut in
If you start where the new paint is and work towards the old paint
You actually thin out the new colour and will have a harder time on the 2nd coat cause it will be thick then thin then thick then thin..
Great video! I love clean lines. Hate using painters tape lol
I like trying to get a perfect line the first time that way the second coat u can stay away from the ceiling line a lil bit
I hold back on my first coat 1/8"...
Then i run my line on 2nd coat...
Agreed. Cannot detect any coverage issues on a second coat that is within say 1/8 inch from the outermost line of the first coat. Something else he didn't describe or show: A person can push a pencil into the ceiling/wall joint and slightly mark a line all the way around. Then, those hard to see corners are easily handled, because the smart painter can then see the joint. I am also right handed but learned to draw the brush in the opposite direction than that being shown. I will, however, use the right-to-left technique minimally to reach out before moving the ladder. Been painting professionally for 50 years and was taught by an expert back then.
And one more thing. Lots of time today's paint comes very thick - too dang thick to cut in properly. It is wise to thin the paint to be used for cutting in, so that it will flow properly allowing those longer strokes that make straight lines. Typically the paint can be thinned minimally in the cut-in bucket only and the applied straight from the bucket with rollers.
@@glenwunderlich2438 great tip on the pencil trick. Thanks for sharing
I learnt the easy way, keep the ceiling and the wall the same paint and colour and also put the same colour on the woodwork and dont look to close after.
My paintwork lasts a minimum 20 years as white never goes out of fashion giving me more time to go out and enjoy my life.
I LOVE the fade out tip.
I self taught myself this when painting my parents entire house before they put it on the market. I had painted before but this was the first time painting 10 rooms in a row over the Course of a few months on off days. First room I taped but it became really annoying and took way too much time and not to mention the cost. I tried several ways with a wet rag handy till I realized that the trick was to get a good amount of paint on the brush and paint the wall near the edge till the excess was off the brush then cut in in a long stroke with the tip of the angled brush towards the edge your cutting which pulls the paint toward that point but it's still a pain though but easier than taping for sure.
Invest in a paint kettle, its makes it so much easier...good video
my tip is....don't by garbage $3.00 brushes. you don't have to spend $50 a brush, but get something decent that will hold it's shape a bit and wont have bristles falling out etc.
I can see where I've been going wrong... no banjo music! Seriously, thanks for the tips.
Mark Laker my pleasure :)
If you haven't already, there's a lot more info that you could get at Expressions Painting University. Check out the PAINTER Training Program. It's FREE for now :)
Awesome tutorial. Clear, concise and goddamn banjo music to boot!
And as you can see, that banjo music increased his speed by about 1500%.
Bro you are a pro and it is very easy for you but not for half of the folks watching cause getting those lines straight will give folks a headache
Good that you do a second cut-in. Some painters get lazy on that point.
Some painters realise you rarely need to cut in twice unless strong colour change.
I guess some painters just hope the homeowner doesn't look close enough to see the obvious difference from a proper 2-cut job and a single-cut lazy job.
no read what the guy above put..unless the color is strong you rarely need to cut twice..if its done correctly..with a bigger brush
pbaylis1 yyahshshshshehs
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Andre Agassi's new career is definitely paying off! 😏
Altho painting from the tin is bit nawty..😂
You are a very good teacher Sir, Chavez Chavez
Holden Wells thanks :)
Hi Remi! It’s sooo neat! What happens when you get some paint on the wood work? I used masking tape but it’s such a faff. I’d love to be able to do it like you are! Any advice?
Keep a damp cloth handy as it will wipe off easy before it drys.
You can also look at caulking a new line and painting with a paint shield, but you will need very square and level walls to get a sharp line. One of the best things to do to practice cutting in sharp lines is the stick some masking tape in straight lines on a wall (that is going to be decorated) then practice cutting against the masking tape trying not to go over the line.
Great tip Remi. Easy peasy, thank you. My problem is, jumping around like a jackrabbit to get my speed up? Any tips?
I like your videos and techniques! Thank you!
Thank you for all your helpful videos !!!!😊
Excellent video, very helpful. What is that amazing banjo music please? I Shazamed it but it didn't find it...
I can't say that I don't agree with your approach seeing how I am not there in person to see the end result. Having said this I would also encourage you not to discredit my approach for the exact same reason. Having said this, I personally find it much more efficient to do it this way and the end result is a really nice finish and a transition that is virtually unnoticeable from the roller finish to the brush finish.
@ Express painting... I've been painting for years and years... and I do it the same way you do... I think the most important thing I learned from the get go was knowing how much paint to have in/on my brush for the area I was painting... never over load your brush unless you want a mess on your hands.
Love these videos! I also like your response below. Professional and courteous. Great job!
Danielle Wilkinson thanks
Expressions Painting
I love working with Sherwin Williams's paint!!
How I wish I knew when I have the right amount of paint on my brush for cut-ins…and a steady hand so I can get that straight cut-in so effortlessly LIKE YOU DO! 😣
I’m in the process of decorating for the first time but I have t blended my edges so I can clearly see the difference between brush and roller. Can this be fixed? Tia!
nice smooth stroke, it give me pleasure to watch
load the back part of the brush, usually works for me , and I wish I had a banjo.
He forgot to mention.. If you didnt notice
He started the blue on the white/brown and drug the blue into the blue he just painted..
He didnt start on the blue and pull it towards the brown.
If he started on the blue and worked into the brown. It actually pulls the paint away from the blue he just did and thins it out..resulting in thinner coat of blue..
Meaning you will have light spots and possible "picture framing" when its finished.
Also makes the 2nd coat super hard cause it has to cover the 1st thin coat. And you usually have to put to much paint on the brush and then it gets all over the ceiling
So when cutting in
Pull the paint from the original wall colour INTO the new colour you just cut in.
Nit bad sir but I was taught that when you cut in a straight line you have to apply your paint both ways back and forth as you are making the actual line in order to make a perfect straight cutout, San Antonio Texas Painters
Not necessary. Michigan painter for 50 years.
Thanks
I liked the way you actually explined it.
But I think you should have made more mention of how you use the end of the brush, not the flat side, as I would have done) It looks like using the end of the brush is they key.
I just painted my room and I used painters tape. This looks so much easier!
Looks... but it isnt lol
I like your videos young man - I was joking yesterday on the roller in the sink clean out patio - but you have some pretty good skills there
Hi what kind of brush are you using in this video tutorial? Thanks
Great video by the way.
Hello Rémi, first I would like to sincerely thank you for all of your helpful painting videos. I only have a year and a half of painting experience so I still have everything to learn. I'm curious if you have a preferred brand of brushes, roller sleeves and rollers. I work for a renovation and construction company in Québec and we buy Aqualine and Jasper brushes (mostly synthetic since we mostly work in latex paint) which are the best we've used so far. We try to always have an army of brushes on hand but we mostly use two and a half angle sash brushes and despite cleaning and storage, they still lose their form and spring after two job sites max. I've heard there are brushes and sleeves that could last a lifetime! Same principle with roller sleeves (we never clean ours - just toss them) and we buy Richard, ,Rona, Uberhaus, or Simms rollers and sleeves. Any preferences or suggestions? And thank you again!
Hi Tiffany,
I have never worked with those brushes but I can tell you that a brush being out of shape after 2 jobs doesn't seem normal to me.
Two things are important in order to maintain the brushes:
1- Proper Cleaning (see my video about how to wash brushes and rollers)
2- Proper storage in their original cases
As for the roller sleeves, typically a roller doesn't work the best the first time you use it. So if you're throwing it out after each use you're never working with a proper roller sleeve. This effect is more evident in wooven rollers.
As for my preferred brushes I like Nours Nature's Palette and Wooster Extra Firm both in the 2.5 inch sash.
For roller sleeves it depends on what I'm painting. Ceiling I prefer a thicker wooven roller from Purdy. Walls I prefer a micro fiber roller 13mm.
For cages and extension poles I'm a big fan of Wooster mostly because of the quick release system :)
So you cut in an entire room, then roll? You don't have to stay wet on wet?
You could, but if just one person is painting a room it is better for you to cut the whole room then roll it, the same for the second coat
Nope
Not bad...i love cutting in...i have no problem with your cutting skills👍
You do it so naturally. Which brand of brush do you recommend from the local hardware store?
looked like TruBargain
One more tip, something I watched him doing wrong. On ur last stroke before rewetting ur brush, always brush that stroke into the wet paint, don't just feather it out any which way. If you look closely when someone does this you will see where the brush landed in ur cut and left a mark whereas if ur last stroke finishes back into the wet you'll see nothing you don't want to show up in ur finish job
great choice of sounds. simple yet effective. in other words I liked it, great tips too thanks
Sergio Basaglia thanks :)
When you go back and forth with the brush you put paint on but then take it off.
Go one direction unless it's textured walls and then you sometimes have to go back and forth
How come you only put a little bit of primer on and not cover the whole wall?
PLEASE ADVISE
Great videos but the playlist is in a random order
Please provide a list from first to last step
Also I wanted to ask, you are cutting on top of the gloss paint around the door frames. Do you need to sand the shine off the gloss first or can you paint Matt straight onto gloss paint?
Thanks in advance