BMW No Heat Fix - Thermostat, Heater Core Sensor and Valve DIY FIXED
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2016
- There is little to no heat coming out of this E46. First thoughts would be to inspect the thermostat, and heater core valve, as those are typically the most influential pieces that contribute to poor heating.
Other symptoms experienced were the water temperature on the dash was fluctuating, so it was solidified that there is possibly a bad thermostat on the vehicle.
Once replacing the thermostat, and inspecting the heater core valve to see it was clean and in good condition, the system was filled, and bled only to see the car was still not getting proper heating. Confirming the heater core was clean, and free to open and close the valve, the HCV was unplugged to default the valve into the open position. This immediately brought heat into the cabin, confirming that our valve is operational, and our thermostat is cycling coolant correctly through the system, as well as being bled correctly.
The next logical path of correction was to understand how the heater control valve receives its signal. There is a sensor behind the HVAC unit in the cabin, the heater core sensor. If improper signal/temperature is registered, the valve will not open and close correctly not bringing in heat to the cabin. Replacing this sensor solved the problem for this vehicle, and there is full heat in the cabin, under full control of the HVAC unit. Problem solved, and a costly visit to the mechanic averted.
The part number for the E46 chassis on this sensor is: 64116930015
Bonus features of this video, you can reference this on how to remove radio, HVAC/IHKA unit, sunglass holder, and dash trim. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Can tell this guy is a true mechanic. Excellent video, I'm sure it has helped a lot of people. Great job.
I recently experienced a drop in max temperature, ide say we're down to around 10 degrees now. This is a fantastic quality diagnostic video. I can't wait to try out those routines. Thanks so much for putting this together.
Thank you. I've been chasing this issue since last winter. I'd have heat for a few days, then no heat, then heat again. Finally, this year, it no longer works at all. Sounds exactly like the behaviour of a faulty sensor. Liked and subscribed to support your channel in appreciation.
I have the same problem chasing this issue and searched countless videos on this issue until I watched this one. The explanations with the other videos didn’t resolve anything.
Thank you mr.mechanic.
Real and the best and clean video with nice explanarion.
GOD bless you.
Thank God this Mechanic Explains what i would have never found, I will look forward to stealing our knowledge lol, Thanks a lot.
problem solved. engine cooling down on highway, cable was not connected of the heater temperature sensor, thank you for this video. you guys have made a great video and understanding bmw e46
Thanks for the video. This helped me a lot.
Great video for diy guys...I was hoping to get a look at the threads on the block drain plug. My gauge cluster failed and I'm not spending $1200 on a new one. I'm doing an electric gauge install on the block and that drain plug looks like the perfect spot for a temperature sensor. It beats taking the intake off to get to the temperature sensor on top of the block.
Thank you so much for making this video. I had the same problem and my heater is working again after replacing the sensor. This is so great. For the last year my heater was working so/so. Sometimes not sometimes it dit a little. Perhaps this could be of value for diagnosing the problem.
Great video! Thanks so much and subscribed!
omg ! absolutely brillant video. a huge thank you.......
Nice, clear video on how to perform these repairs. If your no heat problem is intermittent, could it be that there is air trapped in the system from not being bled when topped off and/or a leak somewhere allowing air to come in - either a crack in plastic component like the expansion tank or one of the radiator hose connection points?
Great video! Thank you!
Great video!
Buddy, you made getting that air filter housing out WAY harder than it should have been. Lol
Great video. I need some help with air conditioning. It works in the mornings when the temperature is usually below 70 degrees. But once I'm driving and the temperature reaches above 80-90degrees the air conditioner just blows hot air. Could it be the heater valve? Or should I also change the sensor in the cabin??
I will be giving this a go today. Thank you for this video. The only thing, I have a 1999 BMW 318 1.9 petrol, so hopefully the heater sensor is in the same place. We've also got a leaking heater matrix (we think) as the rear passenger foot is wet. What do you think?
I have to replace my heater core, any chance you have a video for that in a 2000 BMW 328i e46 4dr with auto trans? If not can you at least tell me if I can access the heater core through the engine compartment or is it from the inside of the car either from under the dash or by removing the dash itself? Thanks,
Is this T shape looking sensor you replaced behind radio climate control panel same kind behind the 2006 E53 BMW X5? In respect to same type of issue i mean that you experienced here in your video. Thanks..
awesome video
Awesome very cool thanks
Lefteris7, thank you for sharing this video. I have the same problem. it is 2009 x5 e70 4.8i which has dual climate control. heat for passengers side is ok, but only cool air for driver side. Do you happen to where is that sensor located at. your help will be greatly appreciated. Sincerely.
I'm getting heat sometimes and other times nothing. will try to change the heater core valve first and if nothing then will try the sensor. bethans for the helpful info.
Emzo Daniels try unplugging the heater core valve completely from the electrical connector. If you consistently get heat there is something related to your valve. You can then try cleaning the valve up before buying a new one. is your cooling system bled properly?
I have defroster heat but not when changed to heat, no hot air in vents?
You get MY thumbs up
THANK YOUUUUUUUU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Whats link for sensor you replaced?
hello there do you have a shop
I'm pretty sure that heater core sensor is what's fucking with my car. Going to take a look at it tomorrow and find out. Thanks for the info, brother. I'll try to remember to give an update on if this fixes my issue or if there is any additional info I can offer.
Hello. Maby you can help me out with this one. It's been the third winter with my e46 and it hasn't blown any heat from the vents. I have changed absolutely everything. Radiator, thermostat, heater control valve (i have even canceled it completely), heater core, checked and diagnosed with DIS v57 software and nothing shows up. No errors, nothing. What can I do other that this. Beleve me I'm desperate to fix it. I'm freezing to death inside it, I can't even defrost the windshield and I can't even see where i'm going.
Ever find out what it was? FSR?
In case someone is here because they're getting heat only from one side of the car (either passenger's or driver's) it's not the valve. For me, it was the heater core. You could try backflushing it or better yet replace it altogether. It can be done without removing the dash, there is a video tutoring here on ytb.
My car probably had a leak and somebody poured some white sealant in the coolant lines to seal it. It probably worked but it clogged the heater core. Again, replacing it solved my problem.
On my e46 even if I unplug the hcv I still don’t get heat
Nice video man, very informative. I have a e87 2006 bmw model (1 series). The issue with my heater is that there is heat coming out from the passenger side but none coming out of the drivers side. I have had the thermostat replaced recently which I thought would be the culprit. The heat out of the passenger side is hot but blowing cold in the driver side. Any idea on what this could be?
Keep up the good work and hope to hear from you. Greetings from the U.K :)
Rakesh Chumber honestly that sounds to be the door behind your dash that directs the hot air to the vents. I am not very familiar with the 1 series but if you were not getting heat at all I'd say yes something is wrong with the components that provide heat. But in this situation you are getting heat on one side which leads me to believe it's the flapper door being stuck. I hope this leads you in the right direction there's a few posts and videos with that particular issue addressed online that would better explain that than I would be able to
Very nice video ! Quick question .. on a right hand side car if only the driver’s air vents are blowing warm- ish air and the passenger side just cold , what could it be?! I did changed main radiator , thermostat, water pump, preety much all the hoses gaskets and o-rings and did the correct bleeding with bmw genuine coolant. I did not flush the heater matrix and didn’t test the heater valve yet.
Have you been able to resolve that? I have the same problem.
@@Krcmeek I have flushed the heating radiator with a garden hose at a low pressure
@@dragandy really? That seems like an easy fix. Did you see some debris coming from it? And your symptoms, was it that you had the heat only from one side i.e. drivers or passengers? I have it like this and not only the dashboard blowers but also the upper one for the glass and lower one for the feet. All those are cold on the driver's side and warm on the passenger's. In simple words, only one side of the car is blowing hot air.
Thank you so much.
@@Krcmeek i did changed the thermostat but before flushing the heating matrix (radiator). Although seems an easy job , you need to take your time on pulling out the hoses of the heater as they can be stubborn. Good luck!!
I have changed the thermostat, changed the waterpump, bleed the system properly, cleaned the heating core and still no heat, i unplugged the heater core valve and i still only get cold air
i cannot put that hose back in new temp housing for love nor money. tried driving with it not clipped and over heated. ive tried EVERYTHING without snapping it. How did you do, cos saw you cut that bit out, lol?
Which hose of all? The 2 going into the valve are held in by hose clamps as I show when removing. Which point in the video are you referring to?
There are two evaporator core sensors right? where is the other one located?
Noel Abiang behind the driver's footwell
I was wondering if you could help me answer this question. Would the heater control valve or sensor be a problem for when the center vents are blowing hot air and the side vents blowing cold air?
mrsup3rn0va are you trying to get cold air or heat? if you are trying to get cold air and it's focused on drivers side vent then you need to recharge your freon. if you are asking for heat and are getting cool air from outer vents that's interesting... are they blowing as much as the center?
I'm trying to get cold air. I've already had recharged it and it was still blowing hot air in center vents I also forgot to mention that when I have the face and legs on it blows super hot air for the legs but super cold air for the face on all face vents
mrsup3rn0va hmm is your gauge showing you are properly charged with freon? that is strange. that would not related to this sensor in my opinion. how cold are the side vents... freezing? it could possibly be the arm inside that directs the air flow if you truly are getting very cold air in certain areas but. ot others...? sorry I can't be a huge help on this
Lefteris7 yeah I was showing that it was fully charged. People have been saying it's the blend door actuators but I could find anything on the web of videos were there located to check them out. Would you know of anything about them.
mrsup3rn0va try to check out your electrical fuse 62 this is responsible for the HCV check out also if the heater core unit are always hot by removing radio , navi and hands on the HVAK can be also wiring problems
From the music, I thought loosening the thermostat housing bolts triggered a boss fight.. jk
So unplugging the heater core valve keeps it open? So if I unplug it, and I get heat, it means that sensor behind the dash is bad?
Do you have to part nr for the heater core sensor?
Gilles van Leeuwen the part number is 64116930015
Gilles van Leeuwen there is two Sensors one is on the heater core and one on the climate core
Hi i wonder if you could help please i'm having heating issues in my e46 320d 2004 the temp gauge will drop to 10 o clock with the heaters on then rise back slowly to the middle i have replaced the egr thermostat twice with behr parts and replaced the main thermostat with a genuine BMW thermostat but i'm still getting the same problem this is whats pointing me to the water control valve i can't think of anything else it would be, any help would greatly be appreciated.
Johny P that's interesting. are you getting heat when it drops down to 10 o'clock? does it drop at high speed in a situation where you're overcooling? my first guess would be the main thermostat causing this since it's staying open not allowing you to build up adequate heat when the heater core is opened. how long have you had the main thermostat changed for? have you properly bled your system to remove all the air?
Lefteris7 Hi thanks for your reply its been properly bled about 5 times, i do get heat when it drops but for example if i leave the heater of it will get to 12 o clock and stay there, its when i turn the heater on i get the this issue the tempreature just drops i have checked the hidden obc menu aswell and the digital temp sensor is accurate with the one on the dash this is really effecting my mpg as you can imagine. when i do initially turn the heaters on i get cold air for like 1-2 seconds then warm.air comes into the cabin i don't know if this is normal any help would be greatly appreciated as diagnostics won't pick up anything at all. My e46 is the basic es model without climate control.
the main stat was changed around this time last year but even with it changed i still had the same issue. i changed it to try and cure this issue.
So you have the analog HVAC control unit? When you bleed your system are you making sure that your heater core is opened? I am wondering if while the main system is 'bled' but potentially the heat core system is not. This is definitely tricky to diagnose over the internet. Logic would tell me you turn the heat on, you drop in temperature, resulting in overcooling. The thermostat is staying open too long not generating enough heat in the system BUT only when the heater is on. When the heater is not engaged you reach optimal temperature. You've followed my directions an unplugged your heater core valve right? what happens? Temperature drops?
Thank-you for your reply my dad is a mechanic and does all the work actually we bled the system again today. this was the process from the top of my head as far as i can remember, drain the fluid open the 2 bleed nipples one on the egr thermostat and one on by the coolant expansion tank put in mixture of coolant 50% and water 50% start car then put the heaters on full blast wait for the pressure and heat to build keep filling the coolant until all air is out the system this is confirmed by both coolant coming out of both bleed screws. I wouldn't know anything about bleeding the heater core but i will look into it, I think it is the analog HVAC unit as i don't have climate control or a digital temperature heater control unit it's the standard analog one i really appreciate your help it's more that i am getting from BMW forums cheers - John
That's it!...the heat sensor for me too.
Excellent vid mate! I do have the somewhat the same issue with my 2005 e46. I do get heat only when the temp is almost reaching the middle part of the gauge. The problem I have in the winter time is it takes so damn long to get the needle to the middle part. and when it is almost getting there, when I speed up the needle moves toward the blue mark indicating a temperature drop. Maybe you could help me and point me to the right direction. Thanks!
Rommel Brusola that sounds to me like your thermostat may need replacing. the fact you get heat but takes forever shoes to me that it's valve is stuck open not allowing the engine to fully get up to temperature. try replacing the thermostat like I showed in the video. should cost about $50 and very easy with the right tools shown .
Rommel Brusola that's exactly what mine is doing mostly during the winter time. does your needle sometimes go really high but I'd you turn it off goes low?
my problem left side hot right side cold!! what do you think i should do ? I will be glad if you reply
Left side of what? Heater core hose or radiator hose?
@@Lefteris7 inside Fresh air grille driver side hot but passenger side cold. I'm setting hot
@@Lefteris7 my english is bad sorry i hope i could explain
@@murats_channel ah so the actual air vents inside the cabin? It can be many reasons. How hot is the temperature on drivers side? You could have air in the system still not allowing adequate hot air to enter system. As the video shows could be the heater core valve. Did you unplug the valve to see if the valve defaulting to open brings in more hot air? Is your thermostat fully functional? Perhaps you are not distributing enough heat. Drivers side always gets priority. Are you sure your flap actuator inside the dashboard is working?
Mine isn't blowing. I can hear sound, but no air comes out. Juuuust a tad from the small vent left of the steering wheel.
What can this be?
Audun Jemtland sounds like your blower motor is bad
tried all that and still nothing. turns out it was the AC unit itself that was at fault. swapped out for a new unit and blowers working with full heat!!!!!!!
I am having the same problem. What AC unit and how did you track down the problem?
Noel Abiang the problem I had was the Heater blower resistor. once changed heater is working perfectly. set the controls to auto and keep to 22-25.c for best results.
I replaced mine last week and still doing the same thing. I will change my HCV today and see if that will solve my problem. thank you!
Noel Abiang did you open up your heater core valve to see how it looks inside? if you unplug the power to the valve do you get heat? have you replaced your thermostat and bled the system correctly?
Lefteris7 I did opened up and unplugged the old HCV and I do get heat. I haven't replace my thermostat. I will do that next after replacing the Evaporator Temperature Sensor. The strange think I found out yesterday after stalling the heater core valve was, when the AC is set on auto it will randomly stopped working. After a few minutes it will blow cold air again. My heater it's doing the same thing. Hopefully it's the Evaporator Temperature Sensor.
Seems like one might try this first:
1) bleed and burp the system
Then..if that doesn’t solve...
2) disconnect the heater core thermostat...and see if you get heat
So you never actually removed the core...what happened there?
I replaced the core sensor not the actual core. That was the fix
This time I'll use inplix instructions to make it by myself.
Doesn't look like bmw coolant was used
Please reference the 16 minute mark
uhhh
no diagnosis tips all tools used seems like there is no interest in sharing.eg TAKING FAN OFF