GUARANTEE A Successful Winter With These July Beekeeping Tips!

Wow it has been an eventful year so far! From an early spring to a mid June dearth, to now already seeing the backside of summer… I hate to say it but it’s time to start thinking about preparing the hives for winter. That includes, getting our colonies strong and healthy, putting on mites treatments before golden rod hits, and feeding them with some syrup to get them bulked up for winter. Thank you for following along on this journey through beekeeping, I hope you have a blessed day! :)
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[@lcan9447]

Good point on the queens from different states. I would think that could possible be a deciding factor on queen performance. Looking forward to see how it turns out.

[@jonathanmooney6852]

Harvey’s Honey has the Best Bees
Monroeville NJ
They are real Farmers

[@waynelivernois5412]

On another vid you did on OAV you were saying that you were smelling the vapors with your mask on, I would suggest that you get a full-face mask so you can protect your eyes at the same time. and are more likely to block the vapors better.

[@jamesodiear1030]

Hey Emily, 1st year bee havre in WNC. Thinking about treating with Apivar first because it has been so dry and hot here, then coming later with Formic-Pro when and if this weather breaks.

[@wesleybryant7839]

Hi Emily, I'm using Apigaurd now in July, then OA vapor in December, and most important, OAV or Hop gaurd in late April. Thankyou for your fun video. Isn't crazy how life gets in the way, one of the reasons I love beekeeping.

[@BackBeeBrokenBeekeeping]

13:50 Supposedly Mites can not develop a resistance to formic or OAV due to the fact that this is not a poison, but rather a physically damaging treatment. For example it is very unlikely any humans could ever develop a resistance to fire. The mode of kill is completely different than methods that mites have developed resistance to.

[@hootervillehoneybees8664]

So fare my drone removal been knocking those mites out as good if not better than chemical treatment.. my first year doing it so will see how things end up.. still planning on chemical treatment in Aug because that's when the mites migrate into the worker brood.. going to treat 10 in each yard with apivar and build up into triples so I have enough in each yard to rebuild it those big units laugh at winter and are ready to split early.. the rest of the production ether doing a formic or requeen with a cell do couple rounds of oav . I can do the same thing as formic by caging the queen for couple weeks save bunch of money doing it.. won't lose anymore production ether way . Maybe I'll try 3 different ones. I want as much honey as possible goldenrod sells really good people with allergies are looking for it . We agree on most things seem spot on imo . Yes just say no to Aug splits only 50% make it and way higher feed bill . Those big triples normally do well on goldenrod if you don't split them in Aug . Just dropped cells in 6 starters fixing to rebuild the rest of the nuc battery before Aug . I make them in July they build up into triple 4 frame boxes normally feed themselves just fine.. I don't have enough frames so Ill just start them in single 4 frame equipment. Needs to stop raining why were seeing efb south of Lapeer. My yards north of Lapeer have more pollen less rain fall. Got like 6" more last night ridiculous two years in row . Last July we broke record rain hopefully we don't repeat it

[@atlas4225]

I have been on board with Joel Salatan lately and he suggests if you can't scale up and down as you might want without having to change your system, your doing something wrong.
Mites are easier to manage than I keep hearing.

[@triggerwarning2439]

Last year (1st year) i only had 2 hives. I had one hive get over run with mites and the other the queen disappeared just after harvist time. I ended up saving my queen from the mite infestation and tossed her into my queenless hive, and thats when I discovered "brood breaks". That hive was super strong in the spring to the point where I did 3 splits and in reality could have done a couple more. With this being my second year and now have 9 hives from catching swarms and doing splits, I'm wondering if its at all possible to pull my queen's and safely save them to the side while doing a brood breaks? Or do I have to requeen? I really like most of my queens performances and dont want to risk getting bad ones. I know if i wait too long to hatch queen cells ill risk not getting them mated since drones start to get booted.

[@tomvanaalst5790]

I'm a new bee. So I could be entirely wrong. The spotty foundation, add more coating to the undrawn foundation. Use an electric meat carving knives to trim back comb that is drawn out too far into the bee space. I think, if you had split the new frames and foundation between the brood boxes, so you have fresh/drawn/fresh/drawn/fresh/drawn extra. If a fresh one is next to a drawn, they can not draw out into the bee space. That double wide comb,trim it back to proper width and feed the spilt honey back to them. Just my thoughts.

[@hootervillehoneybees8664]

We normally just flip towards a wall those outside frames hold a lot more honey anyway

[@mattmcclure1646]

What town are you guys located near I'm south of Fort Wayne Indiana 10 mile

[@Swarmstead]

12:19 ummm WHAT?

[@WheelersPrinting]

Thanks for your great videos. We live in Southern Ontario so virtually the same climate as you. We watch a lot of videos and none seem to recommend leaving bees with full frames of capped honey for the winter. It seems most suggest harvesting as much as you can then simply giving the bees sugar syrup for the winter. Your thoughts.

[@BackBeeBrokenBeekeeping]

Depends on your goal... if you are trying to make a living it is a good business decision to take all the honey and feed. Sugar is less than $1 a pound where as Honey sold retail is worth $12 a pound or more depending on area and market.

[@riobarudo]

❤🐝🤝