It totally baffles me how you are able to make videos that are so simple about common things like oil pumps that nobody else talks or writes about. Easily my most valued subscription.
In my case, the stuck bypass valve in the oil pump, caused massive spike in oil pressure, so it searched for the next weak link - namely the oil filter gasket. At first I tought it was a faulty oil filter, but after third one, I figured that something is wrong. After I took the pump apart, the clearences were spot on, just the valve would not budge.
In one of my builds I had installed 4 high vol/pressure pumps. In each case I had good pressure for about 2 minutes then pressure fell off. At that point I was thinking I had internal engine issues. Pulled the engine built another and inspected the old engine to find no issues. Turns out stuck bypass now I just assume the pump has to be serviced before installing.
I’ve looked and always wondered how an oil pump works and what makes one high volume. Thank you for the information. Most deff appreciate you taking the time to put out good information.
A High volume oil pump puts out more volume than a standard oil pump. For example a small block Chevy HV pump will pump about 25% more oil than a standard Volume. If the engine can't take the excess volume it just bleeds off the excess in a bypass. Also take a bit more HP to turn them, as the gears are taller which is how they pump more volume.
You should see how a dual stage pump works. Most engines made in the last 5 years can change volume and pressure when commanded to by the PCM. 7-10 psi at idle and 70-100 at redline. Great for fuel economy as a fluid pump creates alot of parasitic drag on an engine. Which is why pretty much all new cars use electric steering racks and variable oil pumps.
Wierd that I’m making an oil pump for my model engine and this pops up. I’m glad that I watched this because I never thought about a much-needed bypass. Thanks Tony you are the man.
There are some early (60s Buicks for one) engines that do require the oil pump to be packed to avoid a dry start after a rebuild. They will hold prime after that though.
same with AMC v8's. Those are external pumps, and they are not gerotor (sp?) pumps. I know from experience that AMC pumps are just 2 gears. I was told to use vaseline in them
I feel obligated to make a comment about this for the Oldsmobile guys. If you are building the latr Olds big blocks, 425/455, please keep in mind they were designed to run at what is considered a low RPM now days. People will say Olds have oiling issues. What actually happens in the drainback is too slow. Many times, people will do tings to allow these engines to spin faster. The average engine builder will also recommend a higher volume pump, which they do for everything really. Unfortunately, with the way the Olds oil passages are, it is possible the combination of a higher RPM and a higher volume pump will pump the pan empty and the oil will all be up in the valvetrain trying to make it's way back to the pan. This isn;t super common, but I have heard about this happening to people, where their barnd new rebuilt HiPo 455 had an oiling issue and had a break down. When they look into it, they can;t find anything wrong with the pan, pick up, or oil pump. I am pretty sure Dr. Olds himself has some videos on youtube about it, he devised some modifications to help with the oiling design of the Olds BB. Long story short: Olds guys, do your homework before deciding on a combo for your BB! Sometimes the high volume pump is worse!
I had an oil pump seize up in a ford 400 v8 once. Old, maybe original, timing gears had vinyl coated teeth. The vinyl started falling off, and the oil pump managed to suck up a small piece of it. Squished the vinyl flat before seizing up. The 3/8" allen/hex driveshaft twisted around partially, but didn't break. The teeth on the camshaft & distributor gears got chewed up in the process, also shearing the pin holding the distributor gear in place on its shaft. I was already planning an engine swap, and didn't want to invest a bunch of money into fixing the 400 properly. So I cleaned up the oil pump, swapped in a spare distributor gear, new timing gears & chain, set the timing, cleaned the oil pan and changed the oil & filter, and hoped for the best. It's been running fine ever since! Better actually, without the timing slop. It's still gonna come out though.
Everybody needs to watch this video! thank you for clearing up the confusion between the standard volume, high volume, and high pressure pumps! there's an age old confusion associated with em. Great video as always!
As one of the newbies, I LOVE this type of video. Good to see you throwing one in now and then like you did in your early days. Oh, and bring back the stunt carb!!!
Thanx Uncle Tony for another basic lesson. :) Actually after 25 years working maintenance in a chemical factory I consider myself an expert on pumps. Scoring definitely has a huge effect on pump efficiency.
An exception to packing the pump with grease is with the aviation engines with their huge clearances, low compression, low RPM operating range. One additional thing you can do when blueprinting an oil pump is reducing the clearance between the pump cover and the gears: target of around 0.002 inches of clearance. A flat surface, a piece of fine sand paper and figure 8 motion until the desired clearance is achieved. Keep ‘em coming Tony!
Forgot to revisit the filter relationship, and mention that a long pull on a 5qt pan with a high volume pump can suck a pan dry, but good accurate info.
I like to put a bit of Lucas in the pump when building the engine, a bit of Lucas and oil, Chevy pumps, with steel pinned drive shaft, the Lucas being so sticky it primes very easily, I always use a new oil pump, and pickup, and when I have the pan off a older engine, I go with a new pump and pick-up! Like you say it's dirty oil and can wear, the 94, 454 I bought. I had checked. The bearings, and new pump, and timing chain, come to learn, it only had about 50k miles on it, but toting a motorhome is no easy life! It sounds great with air gap rpm intake and long tube headers! But it's a truck cam, and probably done by 4k rpm, great video
Uncle Tony, you are correct on each point, right on brother. It is a missed opportunity to add oil accumulators. There is a huge discussion going on about the but it all comes down to how the vehicle is driven. Plus the new wrinkle is the "Stop / Start" technology being employed. I truly come that era where we rebuilt everything and I can't stand the idea that someone is going to have the same starter life, flex plate life or bearing wear as they did without these systems as a 4 cylinder is going to stop at the same location (Plus / Minus 3 teeth) and take it from there! DK, Omaha. ASE Master Tech, retired.
Thank you very much UT for explaining this. I learned more in 14 minutes about oil pumps than I have in 20 years because everyone I've talked to has had a different opinion or theory, and especially for HV and HP pumps. This got me thinking. Say you buy a classic car or truck with 100K miles and it runs good but doesn't look like the engine was taken care of. Instead of just doing a tune up and changing fluids pull and inspect the pump for signs of grit or abrasion. Even though a worn pump could still make pressure it might not be making what it should. I've known guys who say 10 PSI at idle is okay because the engine is worn when in fact it could be a good engine with a a worn pump. Replace the pump and you restore proper lubrication and maybe extend the life of that motor.
Yeah the oil pump shaft on a SBF is the Achilles heel of it in my opinion... I put an aftermarket shaft in them even if it is a stock type build! Good video..
I built my first car engine when I was 12-13, years old, that was such longer ago than I want to think, before that it was a couple. Small engines, and a good bit of tinkering, with alot of stuff, it was a few years before OBD-2 , I used to use a high volume pump, but figured, unless you have looser than stock clearances, higher volume is just eating more power!
About 20 years ago my neighbor/friend had a HV pump in his 350 Corvette. It pumped too much oil to the top end of the engine and caused cavitation. It seriously damaged the bottom end. I used 7qt pan & a HV pump in my Camaro. I never had any problems with mine doing that. He had a standard capacity pan. I can't remember what brand of pump I used. I believe it was a melling with a Summit pickup welded on. I took it apart before I installed it and it had white grease inside it.
Hi Uncle Tony. Good job. I learned a lot. The next oil system video vould be about the downstream component, the oil filter. Check valve diaphram, silicone or rubber. What engines have bypass valves in the filter or not. Filter media and pleat count, etc. Good quality filters vs. Cheap ones, etc. Thanks.
Forty plus years and he is Right on in all the engines I have worked on at the dealership and at home, Great gob! some one had to do it just keep it up Thank You!!
On a 63 Mercury comet I had an oil pump jam up and twist off the distributor to oil pump shaft, because of 1 "little" piece of carbon that got sucked into the oil pump gears. about 1/16" piece about the size of a grain of sand ! Great tutorial, Thanks
Actually the Rover V8 was known as an engine that needed the pump packed or it doomsday, it would never prime. Even an oil change, swap the filter first then drop the oil. The problem could even occur if the vehicle had been sitting a longtime. I had in the past used a pressure sprayer hooked up to oil pressure fitting to prime them. Sure someone will mention other Buicks that were similar. Incidentally never seen issues with the Vasaline, but like I mentioned, you can use a pressure sprayer.
Great video with an excellent instructor. Been in the aviation maintenance business for years, so i well know to have an effective session of instruction you have to have a guy like this. The problem today is these kids don't understand the systems. Please do more videos like this as i too am learning.
Excellent video. My 280zx has low oil pressure at idle and when the oil gets hot, the electric fuel pump turns off to protect the engine. Before I try a high pressure pump, I think I will try a high pressure spring. Great info!
Great video! I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee, 282000+ miles. Well, it was that time to replace the rear oil seal, might as well replace the oil pump too. It's a Melling high volume pump. Talk about a night and day difference on the pressure.
Wished this post was put up a couple of months ago. I have just replaced my chains and tensioners in my Australian Ford Falcon modular 5.4 32 valve XR8. I replaced the filter with one that has billet gears even though I do not flog the motor. Oil pump came supplied with some kind of clear grease inside it. I have noticed that the idling pressure appears to be a bit lower than the old one. And running pressure is lower even though you stated in another post that 7psi per 1000rpm is ok.
Good video. Uncle T touched on something from my HD mechanic school days... very simply, pre-lube every component with the same fluid it will be exposed to while operating normally. In addition, always follow the installation instructions provided with the component. It's that easy.
"instructions! i don't need no stinking instructions". much work, head scratching and possibly a few thrown tools later, "now, where are them stinking instruction. hope i didn't throw them away.". anecdote from my personal experience.
Most mechanics I know of prime the oil pump before they put the distributor in to make sure the engine is lubed before startup. It also lets you know what the pressure is.
yup, I've had my knuckles smashed against the firewall more than once priming an engine. You have to be ready for when the pump starts building pressure or it can twist a powerful drill out of your hands
Love your videos UT. Back to HVAC tech. The oil that comes into the pump is pushed Into the pump by atmospheric pressure. If you think about a very cold day up at 10,000 elevation. That oil is really struggling to get into the pump.
YOu did good on this one, shiming the springs, good stuff. One thing you didn't touch on is the gears are pressed on slant six, a peice of grit/metal get in there it will spin the rotor off the shaft. I have welded the gear on the shaft. it wasn't bad, you just have to plane the weld down so it works against the plate. Its a close tolerance, and you can lose pressure so be sure to use care machining it down after you welld it
GREAT video! I woct 2 about the 440 oil pump befor this and they were useless. (including vasaline) Now I finally know I need a hi volume pump on my old 440 due to low presssure after it warmz up.
With the quality of parts today you should always disassemble a new pump and inspect it, you will find chips of metal and all sorts of garbage. Also the sign of a stuck closed relief valve is an exploding oil filter. I have always wanted a side by side comparison of the gear style and gerator style pumps, longevity, amount of power needed to run them and a performance comparison.
I had one pump that wouldn’t prime. I took off the oil filter and used a shop Vac to suck some oil through the pump which then allow the pump to prime.
Good stuff, Tony. One thing you left out of blueprinting is to make sure the clearance between the gears and the body is tight. Usually about 0.002-0.004". If it's more than that, take out the gears, put some 400 grit on a piece of glass and do the figure 8 sanding pattern on the cover surface of the body to shorten it. Also, do the sanding of the cover (especially after you weld the pickup tube to the cover) until it's flat. I also radius the edges of the passage openings to reduces turbulence of the oil.
I just watched a video that mentioned not to weld the pickup tube to the oil pump most oil pumps are cast therefore it will eventually break from the weld. Just thought I’d share made since but then again I wouldn’t know myself.
Melling is the only brand of oil pump i use in engine rebuilds and never had an issue.I do mostly fords and the drive shafts are so flimsy,always replace them with a Melling or ARP shaft even if its a stock rebuild.If any of you reading this have Fords the shaft will twist off with the engine still running with no oil pressure (If the pump locks up) If you use a hardened shaft it will shear off the pin in the distributor and the engine will shut off saving it.
The Ford's have a shaft like a 5/16 Allen wrench if I remember right the last one I built was in a old square bronco 302 2barrel bore job new Pistons cam lifters and valve job went back stock they run that thing in the mud till the sides fell off the body 👍
Had this exact thing happen to me with my 92 mustang. oil pump was binding, not totally seized. It still spun the gear on the distributor shaft. Somehow it didn't spin it totally off. Not knowing what had happened I managed to limp the car home a mile with timing retarded 40 degrees ATDC. The engine is now out of the car for a refresh.
@@wickedlou9 That's amazing it ran in that state,the OE 5.0 engines use an aluminum oil pump housing while the Melling replacement is cast iron and beefy.Part number M-68 is a standard volume pump for any small block ford. ARP 154-7904 is the drive shaft.
Very informative video on simple yet so important basics! I'll be removing the oil pump on my Ford V6 and now know exactly what to expect and inspect! Thank you!
On the Pentastar engine a chain-driven, vane-type variable displacement oil pump adjusts the flow rate and pressure as commanded by the engine management system, which uses a solenoid to drive the pump into low or high pressure mode. For example, below 3,500 rpm, the pump conserves energy by using low pressure; at speeds over 3,500 rpm, the pump switches to high pressure. A force balance mechanism inside the oil pump adjusts the size of the pumping chambers to alter oil flow.
Before I put a new oil pump in my Comanche 4.0 I put a little bit of oil in the pressure side; backed the shaft off a little, put more in and bolted it up to the block. (Damn, those pickup tubes are a bitch to R&R!) Been working fine ever since. AMOF at roughly 215,000 miles it has better oil pressure, than the 208,000+mile 4.0 in my Grand Cherokee! It's gettin' a new one before long, too :-).
I've had a 93Sonoma 4.3:) and a 2.8 s10. Both seemed to have a Guage issue and read low at idle and correct oil psi with even a little throttle.they also leaked oil.
Years ago, a buddy of mine had a Ford Fairlane with a 289. He had cracked a skirt on a piston and a piece of the aluminum got down into the pump. The pump stopped, the little hex driveshaft snapped off. Fortunately, that also stopped the distributor from turning. We were able to rescue everything with two afternoons worth of work.
thanx uncle tony excellent words of wisdom once again i'm replacing my oil pump on my 302 windsor this week and i was told to pack it with vaseline so good to get a heads up not to do that
Changed out a pump pickup screen on a mustang once, it was clogged up with pieces of rubber. Turned out those pieces of rubber were pieces of oil pan gasket material. Crappy Ford design gaskets actually got smashed between the pan and block on the inside, over time those pieces got hard and brittle and flaked off, then the pump picked those pieces up and got lodged in the screen... real recipe for a disaster. Luckily this engine survived, a new pickup screen and a good pan cleaning solved the low pressure issue, and the pump itself was unscathed.
Great videos, really like the technical ones, but getting back to the basics are helpful, in remembering stuff and even learning a different way. Keep them coming.
holy cow, I actually never knew all this about oil pumps. I never had to change one out before. Man this was so informative. THANK YOU. I love learning. Trying to prepare for someday building me a vehicle.
Thought this was really valuable and saw your Melling box off to the side. Like the combination of the Melling pump and Morosso pans. The key in my opinion is to not conflate Volume w/ Pressure in oil pumps. I believe automotive style oil pumps are volumetric not hydrostatic. Simply, put volume and pressure are divorced as opposed to human blood pressure. In hypotensive crisis, fluids are administered w/ the ancillary benefit of immediate increase in pressure through hydrostatic physiology. Volumetric means a higher volume pump will move a larger quantity(in liquid volume), requiring more forgiving passages(orifices), but increase in oil pressure is incumbent upon RPM's. And, cleaner and smoother is always better.
I like these tech videos Tony. Well done. I understand the need for a high volume pump on an engine with looser clearances, like a race engine. Can you explain the advantage of a high pressure pump? The down side would be a little bit of additional power losses, but what is the up side? Thanks.
The only advantage of a high pressure oil pump is in an engine with an extremely bad oiling system design. The downsides can be from priority, bearing surface area and speeds, etc. Very few engines need a high volume pump, far less need a high pressure pump. On the majority of engines neither high volume or high pressure are needed, they are simply band aids for something else that needs addressed. There are racing applications that use high pressure pumps but they also use dry sump systems. Adding volume and or pressure is usually not the best idea for many reasons, rockers starve for oil because the oil sprayed over them, drain back and pooling issues, not pulling heat away, rupturing the oil filter (that will quickly destroying the engine...), etc. The proof, is that neither design is used in most stock engines, even high output ones making crazy power. There are a few acceptations to that rule and when you look how the oiling system is laid out you can see why they band aided it with a pump design.... Controlling the oil is far more important than volume or high pressure. Both of those pump upgrades make controlling the oil much harder. Simply installing an upgrade pump does nothing to address any of the issues they introduce. What most people wont actually tell you is that a stock pump will do fine as long as you don't starve it for oil. I have used stock pumps in deep pans with accusump's for years and not had oiling issues, even at crazy power levels.
@@Crazy8ts demonstrate for us how over a gallon of oil can be suspended against gravity. The only way pressure will drop is if the proper level is low and the return passages are all but clogged. I have a hv pump in my 440 and never "starved" for oil from 800-5000 rpm.
@@scatpack68 In theory you would think that oil would be pulled by gravity back into the pan, but sadly it is not always the case. Put a stud girdle on the mains in your 440, and suddenly you will have massive oil control issues with a high pressure pump at the rpms you are running. Go to 8k, and the HV over about 60 psi, it will start to show issues with .0035 mains. Why? The windage... There is far more to it than gravity...
Ahahahahah, yeah Tony, I can tell you, some 30 yrs ago, I had my friend, my Mechanic in Mexico. I brought to him all of the parts to "rebuild" my 1953 Chevy, 216 cu in inline 6 cyl parts, but I didn't buy an OIL PUMP. My mechanic tells me, hey Marcelo you didn't bring me an oil pump? I told him, "oh , it doesn't need it, the oil presure was FINE". He told me,........... "look, if I'm going to be going into this engine so deeply, you need to bring me a NEW OIL PUMP, doesn't matter if you say it didn't need it, I'm going to put in a NEW oil pump. Otherwise, all of the other parts are going to be NEW and the oil pump will be old, and it's the WEAK LINK, and it'll break , right away! You go get me/bring to me a NEW OIL PUMP! I said , yes sir. I learned something very valuable, right there~!
By the way, I love your videos!♡!♡! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences. There are a lot of people who don't know the difference between a head gasket and an ass gasket. You are not one of those people. I only have a fraction of the knowledge you have, and take all of your video info and translate it into air-cooled VW engine, because that is all I really know but love to learn more. So thank you again
My 65 had a High Volume Pump. Clod start 84psi warm idle 43psi. That was fine, what I didn't like was at 3000RPM I was at 70psi and at 5500 I was over 100psi. Changed to a Standard Volume. Now at cold start 64psi and warm 38psi. But I never see more then 70 psi.
On a Ford the stock oil pump drive shaft is fine....for a stock engine, whichever its specific rating is. In high performance and racing applications, it's a must to upgrade that shaft. It goes without saying, you change the HP and RPM parameters, you upgrade as required with anything.
I can't say I have ever had much of a problem with the oil pumps on my engines (mostly all small block Mopar). I did have a high mileage 360 in a Powerwagon that would drop down to about 10-15 lbs at idle, and then about 40-50 at driving speed, but otherwise most of the small block Mopars I have had run about 25 lbs at idle and 60-70 lbs at driving speed.
There is a kit available for an M72s that replaces the spring, cap, and cotter pin. I use one with a normal volume M72 in my daily 5.2 magnum. I can't vouch for it completely but the dummy gauge in my jeep goes to "50" on the highway at 1800 rpm. Its a shame they don't put a real gauge in; I'll probably be fixing that soon.
You forgot to mention why you should and shouldn't run a hi volume pump in certain applications. For an example I build a lot of LS turbo motors and if you just bolt a hi volume hi pressure pump on a motor in think you can rev 7,000 rpms for long periods of time it will run the pan dry. Hi volume high pressure pumps in my opinion are for added bearing clearance because you're creating a bigger leak. Most engine builders I know like 2.5-3 in something that's going live at 1,200 horsepower+ on race track but if you're going to Street drive it around mite not want to go that much maybe like 2. My one engine builder builds big block Chevy 1,200hp blower car stuff and runs 1.5 on mains and 2 on the rods with a good h bearing's. Some how he has good luck with that Seems a little tight to me but he's been building for 45 years.
The oil film takes up 002 thousands so you gotta loosen em up to get oil around the rod and main journals the first Crank I ever had balanced was on a small journal Corvette 327 and the engine builder called me and said hey it's going to be another 50 bucks I gotta polish the hell out of this crank you don't have enough room for oil when I got it back home it looked like chrome and 8000 thousand RPM was 200 below redline stock melling oil pump Corvette pan and factory windage tray Old school a I loved those little engines but eventually they had to be retired for bigger cubic inches or stay on the porch 👍👍
One of the most misunderstood things about any pump is that they create pressure. They do not. Pumps create flow. Pressure is a measurement of resistance to that flow.that why the spring changes the pressure, and the larger pump volume changes the flow.
A stiffer relief valve spring will only increase the maximum pressure. It won't increase your oil pressure at, for example, hot idle if you are only getting 10 PSI and the relief valve doesn't even open until 60+ PSI. To increase oil pressure at below the pressure the relief valve is set for, you either need to increase the restriction with tighter clearances, thicker oil, less leakage, etc or you need more flow from the pump.
Took a long time to find your excellent video on the oiul pump. Our Toyota has been -pampered throuout it's 112k life but there is zero oil pressure pressure. My wife will not let me tackle it = she says I'm too old at 82. I am told you are unlucky... Toyota 2002 land cruiser = 3 L - D4D 1KD-FVT engine. Toyota says parts can fail ! Two decxent mecanics both have not 'done one'....... The last episode I had to sort out the injectors that the so called experts repaced 1 injector instead of 2 & yet the parts /specialists showed me the report that told the diesel repairers there were two injetcors that neede replacing. It was embarrasing getting the £500 labour costs back in my pocket....... Interestingly they had not cleaned one bit of carbon off the lobes on the cams. There was hardly any clearance on any of the tappets. It was donkey's years since I had done an engine rebuild with my pal, a first class motor engineer who taught me in a very strict manner...........he would say = never use an adjustible spanner on a motor! EVER. He siad mick you won't get paid helping us but you've had a hell of an appreticshire * wilk never need to take your 'cars' to a garage....... Then came the ECU.
Good info Unk. I had a bypass valve stuck shut on a hi volume pump. On a cold start the oil preasure was 80 at idle and if you started to drive right away there would be a permanent bulge in the oil filter
Shimming a spring do not increase its max value,but only its preload value,you will still have the same max oil pressure. Cutting a spring shorter and shimming it back to its original size does increase max pressure.
@@ericlandstrom6155 linear coil springs like here, collapse according to a linear effort , like 30 pounds for 1 inch, 60 pounds for 2 inches etc.... A shim will only start the compression,but do not change the amount of force it will take to collapse the spring,it will just delay it until its max resistance to effort is overcame. If you want to increase a spring force,you increase its coil diameter or shorten and shim it to keeping its stock length and coil diameter. Just look at leaf springs,the shorter they are,the less flexible they are.
@@michaelovitch You're correct in a general sense, however the pressure relief valve doesn't need to completely compress the spring in order to do its job. What determines the maximum oil pressure is the force required to push the valve past the pressure relief opening, and shimming the spring will increase the required force.
I agree mostly with grease in an oil pump but I had a 22re that I could not get to prime at all took it back off put a tiny bit of assembly lube in it and bam she primed
It totally baffles me how you are able to make videos that are so simple about common things like oil pumps that nobody else talks or writes about. Easily my most valued subscription.
I soaked in Deep Purple for a few hours when I was a kid. I was never the same again
In my case, the stuck bypass valve in the oil pump, caused massive spike in oil pressure, so it searched for the next weak link - namely the oil filter gasket. At first I tought it was a faulty oil filter, but after third one, I figured that something is wrong. After I took the pump apart, the clearences were spot on, just the valve would not budge.
In one of my builds I had installed 4 high vol/pressure pumps. In each case I had good pressure for about 2 minutes then pressure fell off. At that point I was thinking I had internal engine issues. Pulled the engine built another and inspected the old engine to find no issues. Turns out stuck bypass now I just assume the pump has to be serviced before installing.
This particular circumstance is specifically mentioned in oil filter catalogs (CarQuest at least)
Did your filter blow like a beer can?
@@alanmeyers3957 Nah, it wasn't that bad, but the oil was everywhere in the engine bay. Not to mention the pavement around my car.
YES!!!!
I for one prefer these basic tech vids over the stuff like economy or trivia.
More please!
Yep! and Let the JunkYard Jet Guy's Do their own thing. If Your not building it, we don't care.
I’ve looked and always wondered how an oil pump works and what makes one high volume. Thank you for the information. Most deff appreciate you taking the time to put out good information.
A High volume oil pump puts out more volume than a standard oil pump. For example a small block Chevy HV pump will pump about 25% more oil than a standard Volume. If the engine can't take the excess volume it just bleeds off the excess in a bypass. Also take a bit more HP to turn them, as the gears are taller which is how they pump more volume.
Ok I miss read your post "I always wondered what..." Thought you asked what made one HV.
You should see how a dual stage pump works. Most engines made in the last 5 years can change volume and pressure when commanded to by the PCM. 7-10 psi at idle and 70-100 at redline. Great for fuel economy as a fluid pump creates alot of parasitic drag on an engine. Which is why pretty much all new cars use electric steering racks and variable oil pumps.
So did I
Volume is longer gears, pressure is stronger spring
One of the most informative videos I've ever watched.
Wierd that I’m making an oil pump for my model engine and this pops up.
I’m glad that I watched this because I never thought about a much-needed bypass.
Thanks Tony you are the man.
There are some early (60s Buicks for one) engines that do require the oil pump to be packed to avoid a dry start after a rebuild. They will hold prime after that though.
70's 350 Buick engines need the oil pump primed when new gears have been installed brand new too.
Perhaps dose them with, say, a teaspoon of straight 50 (or higher weight) oil?
same with AMC v8's. Those are external pumps, and they are not gerotor (sp?) pumps. I know from experience that AMC pumps are just 2 gears. I was told to use vaseline in them
@@bigassfordsd Ya, I think that's what the Buicks are, Oldsmobile too. Gear pumps not 'gerotor'.
Yup... been there... had a used pump (on that Buick V-8) would not re-prime with oil! Had to be primed with petroleum jelly. Lesson learned.
I always use Deep Purple when I clean my oil pump pickup. Highway Star, Smoke on the Water, Space Truckin', as loud as possible.
As a younger guy that didn’t get the opportunity to grow up around these old school vehicles these videos are honestly really very helpful
I feel obligated to make a comment about this for the Oldsmobile guys.
If you are building the latr Olds big blocks, 425/455, please keep in mind they were designed to run at what is considered a low RPM now days. People will say Olds have oiling issues. What actually happens in the drainback is too slow.
Many times, people will do tings to allow these engines to spin faster. The average engine builder will also recommend a higher volume pump, which they do for everything really. Unfortunately, with the way the Olds oil passages are, it is possible the combination of a higher RPM and a higher volume pump will pump the pan empty and the oil will all be up in the valvetrain trying to make it's way back to the pan.
This isn;t super common, but I have heard about this happening to people, where their barnd new rebuilt HiPo 455 had an oiling issue and had a break down. When they look into it, they can;t find anything wrong with the pan, pick up, or oil pump.
I am pretty sure Dr. Olds himself has some videos on youtube about it, he devised some modifications to help with the oiling design of the Olds BB.
Long story short: Olds guys, do your homework before deciding on a combo for your BB! Sometimes the high volume pump is worse!
I had an oil pump seize up in a ford 400 v8 once. Old, maybe original, timing gears had vinyl coated teeth. The vinyl started falling off, and the oil pump managed to suck up a small piece of it. Squished the vinyl flat before seizing up. The 3/8" allen/hex driveshaft twisted around partially, but didn't break. The teeth on the camshaft & distributor gears got chewed up in the process, also shearing the pin holding the distributor gear in place on its shaft.
I was already planning an engine swap, and didn't want to invest a bunch of money into fixing the 400 properly. So I cleaned up the oil pump, swapped in a spare distributor gear, new timing gears & chain, set the timing, cleaned the oil pan and changed the oil & filter, and hoped for the best.
It's been running fine ever since! Better actually, without the timing slop.
It's still gonna come out though.
You were right, UT. It was the bypass getting stuck. Took it out, cleaned it and stuck it back in. Spun it, made like 22-24 PSI on the drill.
Everybody needs to watch this video! thank you for clearing up the confusion between the standard volume, high volume, and high pressure pumps! there's an age old confusion associated with em. Great video as always!
As one of the newbies, I LOVE this type of video. Good to see you throwing one in now and then like you did in your early days. Oh, and bring back the stunt carb!!!
Thanx Uncle Tony for another basic lesson. :) Actually after 25 years working maintenance in a chemical factory I consider myself an expert on pumps. Scoring definitely has a huge effect on pump efficiency.
An exception to packing the pump with grease is with the aviation engines with their huge clearances, low compression, low RPM operating range. One additional thing you can do when blueprinting an oil pump is reducing the clearance between the pump cover and the gears: target of around 0.002 inches of clearance. A flat surface, a piece of fine sand paper and figure 8 motion until the desired clearance is achieved. Keep ‘em coming Tony!
A true teacher, a gift not many have
Forgot to revisit the filter relationship, and mention that a long pull on a 5qt pan with a high volume pump can suck a pan dry, but good accurate info.
I like to put a bit of Lucas in the pump when building the engine, a bit of Lucas and oil, Chevy pumps, with steel pinned drive shaft, the Lucas being so sticky it primes very easily, I always use a new oil pump, and pickup, and when I have the pan off a older engine, I go with a new pump and pick-up! Like you say it's dirty oil and can wear, the 94, 454 I bought. I had checked. The bearings, and new pump, and timing chain, come to learn, it only had about 50k miles on it, but toting a motorhome is no easy life! It sounds great with air gap rpm intake and long tube headers! But it's a truck cam, and probably done by 4k rpm, great video
Uncle Tony, you are correct on each point, right on brother. It is a missed opportunity to add oil accumulators. There is a huge discussion going on about the but it all comes down to how the vehicle is driven. Plus the new wrinkle is the "Stop / Start" technology being employed. I truly come that era where we rebuilt everything and I can't stand the idea that someone is going to have the same starter life, flex plate life or bearing wear as they did without these systems as a 4 cylinder is going to stop at the same location (Plus / Minus 3 teeth) and take it from there!
DK, Omaha. ASE Master Tech, retired.
Thank you very much UT for explaining this. I learned more in 14 minutes about oil pumps than I have in 20 years because everyone I've talked to has had a different opinion or theory, and especially for HV and HP pumps. This got me thinking.
Say you buy a classic car or truck with 100K miles and it runs good but doesn't look like the engine was taken care of. Instead of just doing a tune up and changing fluids pull and inspect the pump for signs of grit or abrasion.
Even though a worn pump could still make pressure it might not be making what it should. I've known guys who say 10 PSI at idle is okay because the engine is worn when in fact it could be a good engine with a a worn pump. Replace the pump and you restore proper lubrication and maybe extend the life of that motor.
Yeah the oil pump shaft on a SBF is the Achilles heel of it in my opinion... I put an aftermarket shaft in them even if it is a stock type build! Good video..
Yeah, the long Allen key waa. Always fun to see them twisted like a pretzel.......in somebody else's engine.
Andy be keeping an eye on UT 👀
@@baby-sharkgto4902 Always!
I built my first car engine when I was 12-13, years old, that was such longer ago than I want to think, before that it was a couple. Small engines, and a good bit of tinkering, with alot of stuff, it was a few years before OBD-2 , I used to use a high volume pump, but figured, unless you have looser than stock clearances, higher volume is just eating more power!
About 20 years ago my neighbor/friend had a HV pump in his 350 Corvette. It pumped too much oil to the top end of the engine and caused cavitation. It seriously damaged the bottom end. I used 7qt pan & a HV pump in my Camaro. I never had any problems with mine doing that. He had a standard capacity pan. I can't remember what brand of pump I used. I believe it was a melling with a Summit pickup welded on. I took it apart before I installed it and it had white grease inside it.
Awesome, comprehensive video.
My cure for the common Ford oil pump shaft:
SBF - hardened Melling or ARP
BBF - hardened Melling
Hi Uncle Tony. Good job. I learned a lot. The next oil system video vould be about the downstream component, the oil filter. Check valve diaphram, silicone or rubber. What engines have bypass valves in the filter or not. Filter media and pleat count, etc. Good quality filters vs. Cheap ones, etc. Thanks.
Agreed, that could make a very good educational video.
Project Farm did a video on oil filters. I think you might like it.
As simple as the oil pump is , this was still very informative Thanks UT.
Forty plus years and he is Right on in all the engines I have worked on at the dealership and at home, Great gob! some one had to do it just keep it up Thank You!!
On a 63 Mercury comet I had an oil pump jam up and twist off the distributor to oil pump shaft, because of 1 "little" piece of carbon that got sucked into the oil pump gears. about 1/16" piece about the size of a grain of sand !
Great tutorial, Thanks
Actually the Rover V8 was known as an engine that needed the pump packed or it doomsday, it would never prime. Even an oil change, swap the filter first then drop the oil. The problem could even occur if the vehicle had been sitting a longtime.
I had in the past used a pressure sprayer hooked up to oil pressure fitting to prime them.
Sure someone will mention other Buicks that were similar. Incidentally never seen issues with the Vasaline, but like I mentioned, you can use a pressure sprayer.
The rover v8 and Buick V8s are closely related if you know your auto history. Might explain some of that
@@wobbles7915 Correct. I had a Rover SD1 V8 in my Toyota Celica and I purchased a manual which stated that Rover V8 is based Buick.
Is the Rove a gear pump or the type shown here.
@@wobbles7915 Buick 215.
@@mpetersen6 Gear.
Great video with an excellent instructor. Been in the aviation maintenance business for years, so i well know to have an effective session of instruction you have to have a guy like this. The problem today is these kids don't understand the systems. Please do more videos like this as i too am learning.
Excellent video. My 280zx has low oil pressure at idle and when the oil gets hot, the electric fuel pump turns off to protect the engine. Before I try a high pressure pump, I think I will try a high pressure spring. Great info!
Great video! I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee, 282000+ miles. Well, it was that time to replace the rear oil seal, might as well replace the oil pump too. It's a Melling high volume pump. Talk about a night and day difference on the pressure.
Wished this post was put up a couple of months ago. I have just replaced my chains and tensioners in my Australian Ford Falcon modular 5.4 32 valve XR8. I replaced the filter with one that has billet gears even though I do not flog the motor. Oil pump came supplied with some kind of clear grease inside it. I have noticed that the idling pressure appears to be a bit lower than the old one. And running pressure is lower even though you stated in another post that 7psi per 1000rpm is ok.
Good video. Uncle T touched on something from my HD mechanic school days... very simply, pre-lube every component with the same fluid it will be exposed to while operating normally. In addition, always follow the installation instructions provided with the component. It's that easy.
"instructions! i don't need no stinking instructions". much work, head scratching and possibly a few thrown tools later, "now, where are them stinking instruction. hope i didn't throw them away.".
anecdote from my personal experience.
@@jessebianchi2631 hahaha, too true brother!
The basic tech stuff is some of your best stuff. I know most of it, but still learn something from many of them.
Deep Purple, I used to have their greatest hits on cassette.
Great info on oil pumps.
Most mechanics I know of prime the oil pump before they put the distributor in to make sure the engine is lubed before startup. It also lets you know what the pressure is.
yup, I've had my knuckles smashed against the firewall more than once priming an engine. You have to be ready for when the pump starts building pressure or it can twist a powerful drill out of your hands
@@superrodder2002 Ouch 🤕
Mechanics gloves is a thought.....
You’re always such a great teacher every time I watch your video. I never have any questions. Good job.
Thanks Tony. You are possibly the only and definitely the first I've seen to explain auto oil pumps. Now I know!
Love your videos UT.
Back to HVAC tech.
The oil that comes into the pump is pushed Into the pump by atmospheric pressure.
If you think about a very cold day up at 10,000 elevation.
That oil is really struggling to get into the pump.
YOu did good on this one, shiming the springs, good stuff. One thing you didn't touch on is the gears are pressed on slant six, a peice of grit/metal get in there it will spin the rotor off the shaft. I have welded the gear on the shaft. it wasn't bad, you just have to plane the weld down so it works against the plate. Its a close tolerance, and you can lose pressure so be sure to use care machining it down after you welld it
These are the kind of vids that made me a UTG fan.
Thank you uncle Tony a very educational video on oil pumps you have an old school of knowledge.🇺🇲🚗🚙
GREAT video! I woct 2 about the 440 oil pump befor this and they were useless. (including vasaline) Now I finally know I need a hi volume pump on my old 440 due to low presssure after it warmz up.
With the quality of parts today you should always disassemble a new pump and inspect it, you will find chips of metal and all sorts of garbage. Also the sign of a stuck closed relief valve is an exploding oil filter. I have always wanted a side by side comparison of the gear style and gerator style pumps, longevity, amount of power needed to run them and a performance comparison.
Thank you uncle tony, for passing along all this knowledge!
I’m glad you covered the gasket
These type of videos are my absolute favorite... solid information that helps us all out so much, thanks!!
I had one pump that wouldn’t prime. I took off the oil filter and used a shop Vac to suck some oil through the pump which then allow the pump to prime.
Love the info uncle Tony. I watch all the time, like a lot of videos, but I dont comment often. I appreciate everything you share with us.
If Uncle Tony does a whole series of lectures on basic automotive technology, I'll watch every one of them. Beats 99% of stuff on TH-cam.
Good stuff, Tony. One thing you left out of blueprinting is to make sure the clearance between the gears and the body is tight. Usually about 0.002-0.004". If it's more than that, take out the gears, put some 400 grit on a piece of glass and do the figure 8 sanding pattern on the cover surface of the body to shorten it. Also, do the sanding of the cover (especially after you weld the pickup tube to the cover) until it's flat.
I also radius the edges of the passage openings to reduces turbulence of the oil.
I just watched a video that mentioned not to weld the pickup tube to the oil pump most oil pumps are cast therefore it will eventually break from the weld. Just thought I’d share made since but then again I wouldn’t know myself.
@@DonnieIngram I actually prefer to use an aftermarket bracket to ensure the pickup doesn't come off, over welding.
Melling is the only brand of oil pump i use in engine rebuilds and never had an issue.I do mostly fords and the drive shafts are so flimsy,always replace them with a Melling or ARP shaft even if its a stock rebuild.If any of you reading this have Fords the shaft will twist off with the engine still running with no oil pressure (If the pump locks up) If you use a hardened shaft it will shear off the pin in the distributor and the engine will shut off saving it.
The Ford's have a shaft like a 5/16 Allen wrench if I remember right the last one I built was in a old square bronco 302 2barrel bore job new Pistons cam lifters and valve job went back stock they run that thing in the mud till the sides fell off the body 👍
Had this exact thing happen to me with my 92 mustang. oil pump was binding, not totally seized. It still spun the gear on the distributor shaft. Somehow it didn't spin it totally off. Not knowing what had happened I managed to limp the car home a mile with timing retarded 40 degrees ATDC. The engine is now out of the car for a refresh.
@@wickedlou9 That's amazing it ran in that state,the OE 5.0 engines use an aluminum oil pump housing while the Melling replacement is cast iron and beefy.Part number M-68 is a standard volume pump for any small block ford. ARP 154-7904 is the drive shaft.
Thankyou greatly, a very clear and educational explanation.
This man is as real as it gets. Great video!
Edit: This is what hands on experience gets you boys. The difference between Intelligence and Wisdom!
I don't know a lot about cars but I know a little, so I really enjoy videos like this on your Channel.
That about high value pump explained is what my engine is doin thanks I know what to install and try.
Very informative video on simple yet so important basics! I'll be removing the oil pump on my Ford V6 and now know exactly what to expect and inspect! Thank you!
On the Pentastar engine a chain-driven, vane-type variable displacement oil pump adjusts the flow rate and pressure as commanded by the engine management system, which uses a solenoid to drive the pump into low or high pressure mode. For example, below 3,500 rpm, the pump conserves energy by using low pressure; at speeds over 3,500 rpm, the pump switches to high pressure.
A force balance mechanism inside the oil pump adjusts the size of the pumping chambers to alter oil flow.
we always soaked the oil pump internals in STP and put it together old school trick I'm sure you know about!
deep Purple! Tony, that is a band from the early 70's. you crack me up. they had some great hits
Well done Professor Uncle Tony.
Appreciate your time in making these videos. Your experience shows.
Before I put a new oil pump in my Comanche 4.0 I put a little bit of oil in the pressure side; backed the shaft off a little, put more in and bolted it up to the block. (Damn, those pickup tubes are a bitch to R&R!) Been working fine ever since. AMOF at roughly 215,000 miles it has better oil pressure, than the 208,000+mile 4.0 in my Grand Cherokee! It's gettin' a new one before long, too :-).
I've had a 93Sonoma 4.3:) and a 2.8 s10. Both seemed to have a Guage issue and read low at idle and correct oil psi with even a little throttle.they also leaked oil.
Years ago, a buddy of mine had a Ford Fairlane with a 289. He had cracked a skirt on a piston and a piece of the aluminum got down into the pump. The pump stopped, the little hex driveshaft snapped off. Fortunately, that also stopped the distributor from turning. We were able to rescue everything with two afternoons worth of work.
thanx uncle tony
excellent words of wisdom once again
i'm replacing my oil pump on my 302 windsor this week and i was told to pack it with vaseline so good to get a heads up not to do that
Gasket! So key to keep in mind! 👍👍 Thank you, Uncle T 🙂
On sbc years ago we would cut the bypass spring and stretch it back to size for out "high flow" lol
Changed out a pump pickup screen on a mustang once, it was clogged up with pieces of rubber. Turned out those pieces of rubber were pieces of oil pan gasket material. Crappy Ford design gaskets actually got smashed between the pan and block on the inside, over time those pieces got hard and brittle and flaked off, then the pump picked those pieces up and got lodged in the screen... real recipe for a disaster. Luckily this engine survived, a new pickup screen and a good pan cleaning solved the low pressure issue, and the pump itself was unscathed.
If it was a 60s or ealy 70s it might have been valve seal pieces too, they've been known to break up and get in the oil pick up
@@myretirementlife8731 it was a mid 80's model and it was the pan gasket material that flaked off in longated shapes from the inside edge of the pan.
Great videos, really like the technical ones, but getting back to the basics are helpful, in remembering stuff and even learning a different way. Keep them coming.
These kinds of videos are very informative, hope to see more like this. Once again, you have shown me things that I did not know. Thank you.
Thanks- I learned a lot.
holy cow, I actually never knew all this about oil pumps. I never had to change one out before. Man this was so informative. THANK YOU. I love learning. Trying to prepare for someday building me a vehicle.
A extra lesson for your book... Well done.
Thought this was really valuable and saw your Melling box off to the side. Like the combination of the Melling pump and Morosso pans. The key in my opinion is to not conflate Volume w/ Pressure in oil pumps. I believe automotive style oil pumps are volumetric not hydrostatic. Simply, put volume and pressure are divorced as opposed to human blood pressure. In hypotensive crisis, fluids are administered w/ the ancillary benefit of immediate increase in pressure through hydrostatic physiology. Volumetric means a higher volume pump will move a larger quantity(in liquid volume), requiring more forgiving passages(orifices), but increase in oil pressure is incumbent upon RPM's. And, cleaner and smoother is always better.
I like these tech videos Tony. Well done. I understand the need for a high volume pump on an engine with looser clearances, like a race engine. Can you explain the advantage of a high pressure pump? The down side would be a little bit of additional power losses, but what is the up side? Thanks.
The only advantage of a high pressure oil pump is in an engine with an extremely bad oiling system design. The downsides can be from priority, bearing surface area and speeds, etc. Very few engines need a high volume pump, far less need a high pressure pump. On the majority of engines neither high volume or high pressure are needed, they are simply band aids for something else that needs addressed. There are racing applications that use high pressure pumps but they also use dry sump systems. Adding volume and or pressure is usually not the best idea for many reasons, rockers starve for oil because the oil sprayed over them, drain back and pooling issues, not pulling heat away, rupturing the oil filter (that will quickly destroying the engine...), etc. The proof, is that neither design is used in most stock engines, even high output ones making crazy power. There are a few acceptations to that rule and when you look how the oiling system is laid out you can see why they band aided it with a pump design.... Controlling the oil is far more important than volume or high pressure. Both of those pump upgrades make controlling the oil much harder. Simply installing an upgrade pump does nothing to address any of the issues they introduce. What most people wont actually tell you is that a stock pump will do fine as long as you don't starve it for oil. I have used stock pumps in deep pans with accusump's for years and not had oiling issues, even at crazy power levels.
The “pressure” is not created by the pump. The pressure is created by bearing clearances.
@@Crazy8ts demonstrate for us how over a gallon of oil can be suspended against gravity. The only way pressure will drop is if the proper level is low and the return passages are all but clogged. I have a hv pump in my 440 and never "starved" for oil from 800-5000 rpm.
@@scatpack68 In theory you would think that oil would be pulled by gravity back into the pan, but sadly it is not always the case. Put a stud girdle on the mains in your 440, and suddenly you will have massive oil control issues with a high pressure pump at the rpms you are running. Go to 8k, and the HV over about 60 psi, it will start to show issues with .0035 mains. Why? The windage... There is far more to it than gravity...
@@shvrdavid #1 there's no reason to go past 5k rpm in a stock 440 mag, #2 these engines all came with a windage tray for a reason.
My engine builder told me to block the bypass and keep up on oil changes. He said he's seen bbf pumps stick often enough. For racing purposes.
Ahahahahah, yeah Tony, I can tell you, some 30 yrs ago, I had my friend, my Mechanic in Mexico. I brought to him all of the parts to "rebuild" my 1953 Chevy, 216 cu in inline 6 cyl parts, but I didn't buy an OIL PUMP. My mechanic tells me, hey Marcelo you didn't bring me an oil pump? I told him, "oh , it doesn't need it, the oil presure was FINE". He told me,........... "look, if I'm going to be going into this engine so deeply, you need to bring me a NEW OIL PUMP, doesn't matter if you say it didn't need it, I'm going to put in a NEW oil pump. Otherwise, all of the other parts are going to be NEW and the oil pump will be old, and it's the WEAK LINK, and it'll break , right away! You go get me/bring to me a NEW OIL PUMP! I said , yes sir. I learned something very valuable, right there~!
This bypass valve part saved my day , thank you!! About to go pull the pump off the slant 6 😂
By the way, I love your videos!♡!♡! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences. There are a lot of people who don't know the difference between a head gasket and an ass gasket. You are not one of those people. I only have a fraction of the knowledge you have, and take all of your video info and translate it into air-cooled VW engine, because that is all I really know but love to learn more. So thank you again
My 65 had a High Volume Pump. Clod start 84psi warm idle 43psi. That was fine, what I didn't like was at 3000RPM I was at 70psi and at 5500 I was over 100psi. Changed to a Standard Volume. Now at cold start 64psi and warm 38psi. But I never see more then 70 psi.
wow I learned what I needed to know about the oil pumps, thank you Tony !
On a Ford the stock oil pump drive shaft is fine....for a stock engine,
whichever its specific rating is.
In high performance and racing applications, it's a must to upgrade that shaft. It goes without saying, you change the HP and RPM parameters, you upgrade as required with anything.
Thank you for this video. I understand now a whole lot better how they work.
I can't say I have ever had much of a problem with the oil pumps on my engines (mostly all small block Mopar). I did have a high mileage 360 in a Powerwagon that would drop down to about 10-15 lbs at idle, and then about 40-50 at driving speed, but otherwise most of the small block Mopars I have had run about 25 lbs at idle and 60-70 lbs at driving speed.
Great Video exactly what we need more of the basic engine parts and how the work and how to fix them
There is a kit available for an M72s that replaces the spring, cap, and cotter pin. I use one with a normal volume M72 in my daily 5.2 magnum. I can't vouch for it completely but the dummy gauge in my jeep goes to "50" on the highway at 1800 rpm. Its a shame they don't put a real gauge in; I'll probably be fixing that soon.
You forgot to mention why you should and shouldn't run a hi volume pump in certain applications. For an example I build a lot of LS turbo motors and if you just bolt a hi volume hi pressure pump on a motor in think you can rev 7,000 rpms for long periods of time it will run the pan dry. Hi volume high pressure pumps in my opinion are for added bearing clearance because you're creating a bigger leak. Most engine builders I know like 2.5-3 in something that's going live at 1,200 horsepower+ on race track but if you're going to Street drive it around mite not want to go that much maybe like 2. My one engine builder builds big block Chevy 1,200hp blower car stuff and runs 1.5 on mains and 2 on the rods with a good h bearing's. Some how he has good luck with that Seems a little tight to me but he's been building for 45 years.
The oil film takes up 002 thousands so you gotta loosen em up to get oil around the rod and main journals the first Crank I ever had balanced was on a small journal Corvette 327 and the engine builder called me and said hey it's going to be another 50 bucks I gotta polish the hell out of this crank you don't have enough room for oil when I got it back home it looked like chrome and 8000 thousand RPM was 200 below redline stock melling oil pump Corvette pan and factory windage tray Old school a I loved those little engines but eventually they had to be retired for bigger cubic inches or stay on the porch 👍👍
Hope you never die.. absolute genius
One thing I might add, is high volume pumps are great for engines that do a lot of starting and stopping. Like delivery trucks.
One of the most misunderstood things about any pump is that they create pressure. They do not. Pumps create flow. Pressure is a measurement of resistance to that flow.that why the spring changes the pressure, and the larger pump volume changes the flow.
A stiffer relief valve spring will only increase the maximum pressure. It won't increase your oil pressure at, for example, hot idle if you are only getting 10 PSI and the relief valve doesn't even open until 60+ PSI.
To increase oil pressure at below the pressure the relief valve is set for, you either need to increase the restriction with tighter clearances, thicker oil, less leakage, etc or you need more flow from the pump.
Thank you tremendously for these videos 🙏🏼
Took a long time to find your excellent video on the oiul pump. Our Toyota has been -pampered throuout it's 112k life but there is zero
oil pressure pressure. My wife will not let me tackle it = she says I'm too old at 82. I am told you are unlucky... Toyota 2002 land cruiser =
3 L - D4D 1KD-FVT engine. Toyota says parts can fail ! Two decxent mecanics both have not 'done one'.......
The last episode I had to sort out the injectors that the so called experts repaced 1 injector instead of 2 & yet the parts /specialists showed me the report that told the diesel repairers there were two injetcors that neede replacing. It was embarrasing getting the £500 labour costs back in my pocket....... Interestingly they had not cleaned one bit of carbon off the lobes on the cams. There was hardly any clearance on any of the tappets. It was donkey's years since I had done an engine rebuild with my pal, a first class motor engineer who taught me in a very strict manner...........he would say = never use an adjustible spanner on a motor! EVER. He siad mick you won't get paid helping us but you've had a hell of an appreticshire * wilk never need to take your 'cars' to a garage....... Then came the ECU.
Good info Unk.
I had a bypass valve stuck shut on a hi volume pump. On a cold start the oil preasure was 80 at idle and if you started to drive right away there would be a permanent bulge in the oil filter
Thanks for the lesson Uncle Tony. And thanks for the info on "pack it with Vaseline" myth.
Good job as always Uncle Kathy. :)
Shimming a spring do not increase its max value,but only its preload value,you will still have the same max oil pressure.
Cutting a spring shorter and shimming it back to its original size does increase max pressure.
No, you're wrong. Shimming oil pump relief springs is a long accepted practice for raising max oil pressure. Done it myself many times
@@ericlandstrom6155
linear coil springs like here, collapse according to a linear effort , like 30 pounds for 1 inch, 60 pounds for 2 inches etc....
A shim will only start the compression,but do not change the amount of force it will take to collapse the spring,it will just delay it until its max resistance to effort is overcame.
If you want to increase a spring force,you increase its coil diameter or shorten and shim it to keeping its stock length and coil diameter.
Just look at leaf springs,the shorter they are,the less flexible they are.
@@michaelovitch You're correct in a general sense, however the pressure relief valve doesn't need to completely compress the spring in order to do its job. What determines the maximum oil pressure is the force required to push the valve past the pressure relief opening, and shimming the spring will increase the required force.
I agree mostly with grease in an oil pump but I had a 22re that I could not get to prime at all took it back off put a tiny bit of assembly lube in it and bam she primed
Superb video. This explained everything I wanted to know, and more.