You are an invaluable member of the DIY bmw community. Even if you aren't getting the views you used to, just know that we still appreciate you more than ever. Thank you for everything you've done for us
Those aluminum torque to yield bolts are notorious for breaking on the way out if put under any stress say with an impact or something. Did my oil pan and rear main seal on the E93 and got luck, no broken bolts. Nice video.
Replacing the pulley that should have ribs is so so important, especially if the car is enjoyed to it's fullest potential as a dance partner, part number to do so is Dayco 89008
Really glad you made this vid! I commented on another serpentine belt shred vid you had uploaded about installing this.. I wish I'd known about this prior to it happening, but thank God I dodged a bullet.. to reiterate to everyone who owns an N52/N54/N55, you must get this done ASAP.. and YES, this DOES affect N55 as the dampener design is essentially the same as prev gens. Be sure to install the crank bolt capture while you're at it, 2 birds with 1 stone; while I'm running MHD Stage 2+ which is nothing super crazy, it's nice to have that peace of mind. Why BMW had to change the design of the crank dampener is beyond me; my S54 in the e46 M3 has it done right.. the dampener covers the front main seal, acting as a seal guard, while the pulley portion is installed on the outside. Love that ATI makes a super damper for the S54 for which I'm using, thus it can be rebuilt over time for much cheaper than a full out OE dampener replacement. Just wish they had one for the N55! And you gotta love when BMW decides to use aluminum one-time-use bolts.. again, love the M3, oil pan bolts aren't anything like this.. the Motorsport guys during that era knew what they were doing, and I very much miss it!
Just wanted to say, I appreciate the E90 videos. I learn a lot and appreciate the insights you have and the style it's presented in, if that makes sense (no BS, just slangn tools). Happy I found you. Keep it up!
Oh my heart felt that bolt when it broke! Oh the hate at that point is Geiger counter measurable. I obviously am not there to see how this is but i did watch another video where the guy did it with just a regular ratchet (Non powered) and had no probs. So we are all hoping this won't happen to us. LOL. Great job no matter!
Thank you. I will have to add one of those crank seal guards myself. Probably not needed with all leaks fixed and the correct (updated) subframe and/or the aluminium power steering pulley. But better to be safe than sorry. Keep the N54 videos coming. They have been great so far.
Great video! First of all - you looking great when lose weight and I have 1 Question - "what`s the difference between 3 hours work on the engine and 3 days work on the engine?" Yeah - exactly what you show us. "One broken stud or bolt". I can feel your pain at this moment. Thanks for keeping that staff in your videos. Im still on m54 with 80k and planning to keep it forever =) but that`s great to see DIY videos for other engines on your channel.
Did a belt job on 2013 x5 due to it shredding and luckily somewhere in the back of my head I remembered something i had read that Mentioned about the crank seal. Pulled the crank pulley off and it quickly turned into dropping the pan and oil pick up to remove all the pieces of belt that got sucked in.
Kudos to you my firend for sharing this informative video. Was pleased to learn about the potenital pitfalls of the snapped bolt and the misalignment of the crank bolt and the slotted holes in the guard. All things considered, and I'm not gong to be adding silly HP to my car, I'm going to do the same and fit the seal guard but not the crank bolt guard.
Jason...I just installed mine on out F15 N55 today, the belt guard. Now, I have a peace of mind. Thanks for your help. I was afraid of breaking the aluminum bolts, but they came off good!
That crankshaft stub bolt is specified at 300 Nm, which is just crazy high. I'm considering the addition of one of these guards after replacing the front seal on an E60/N52, and was going to time the engine and remove the stub shaft to clean it up and reduce the chance of future leaks. But when I saw that toque spec, I figure I'll just leave that stub shaft alone!!
Here’s my theory on those bolts that BMW uses. I don’t think they are pure aluminum. I think they have some sort of maybe an antimony in them or something like that that causes electrolysis to set up in the bolt if it stays in place long enough. I have actually invested in a drill and tap set because of these stupid bolts. At my every convenience where it’s possible I actually end up using 3/8 threaded rod wrapped in Teflon tape to avoid electrolysis. It works fine I have been doing it for years now. Most times I actually make a stud and put a nut in washer on the end of that. No more do I have to go in and worry about a BMW bolt breaking off in my head or wherever else. At least not the ones I’ve replaced anyway.
excellent work and explanation in real life. 100-100 i do NOT use any impact or power tools on my BMW . aluminum bolts are not a good idea and i try to stay away from twisting of any bolt.... so i go easy and slow (and scared)... and surely do not want to do things over again and again...aluminum bolts?? ( i have to do the front engine seal on my 2013 x5 35i ... not looking forward to it at all... the thing is ...leave it to these engineers to complicate these vehicles!!.grrrrrrrr great video!!
you also have to be careful, if you loosen the screw at an angle, the screw may get stuck in the thread and destroy the thread. In that case an easy out doesn't help anymore. Soft aluminium😐
Similar issue to the corvette c5 harmonic balancer wobbling problem. But this preventative method is much easier to install than fixing the crank shaft seal.
Thanks for all the videos. Ive noticed that I’ve never heard you mention FCP euro for BmW parts. I’ve been using them since I got my E46 325i and have been able to replace and restore everything with their lifetime warranty. Even replacing my oil for free! I know you’re far in CA , they’re on CT but they ship fast. They usually carry all OEM stuff or at least OE. Btw You’re looking great and it’s awesome to see the progress you make on all your BMW’s and your own know how over the years. You’ve saved me a lot of time and money!
Glad to see your channel coming back after such a long hiatus. I notice you look much more energetic after losing some weight. Congratulations! Will you make videos on how you achieve this?
When I was changing the water pump on my 535, everything was going way too smoothly. I went to tighten the last bolt and broke the head off! Holy s#!t was I mad… Ha, still get a little mad just thinking about it lol
wish I'd known about this when I swapped engine (x3/n52) last year. Had to replace timing chain guide and redo front seal, timing and crank bolt, quite a job, particularly the crank bolt. wondered at the time if there was a way to protect the motor from the infamous belt suck in. This looks like its not too hard (with the caveat on the alum bolts).
Are you sure those two aluminum bolts don’t have to be angle torqued ? Every aluminum bolt on my bmw that I have come across so far had to be angle torqued to 90 or 180 degrees.
@@seanpaul3050 Not on the N54. The N54 has a aluminium block, but many screws are aluminium because they are also used on the N52 and/or N53 which both have a magnesium/aluminium block. I wish they had used all steel hardware on the N54. Would have saved a lot of broken screws over the years.
You mentioned fragments getting In the oil pan is the strainer fine enough that the fragments don't circulate through the engine not sure how bad mine is yet
Thanks for sharing this information I am doing a valve cover gasket job on my car and when I removed the cover I saw parts of a belt that slipped out before, also I had a p0012 code I think that’s what caused the code 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️ after I finish the job I will find out😅
I shredded a belt just dont want to pull the balancer and check. My crank guard could of worn down or been chewed when it chews a belt. It sheers off the engine side because of the balancer design.
@@50sKid You should be ok with steel bolts. I think bmw only used them in the n54 because they use the same bolt set in the n52 oilpan with the magnesium block.
Thanks for this video Jason! This is next on our N55 X5 to-do list. I was not aware of the crank bolt "lock" that didn't fit. I'm curious if you tried to 'clock' it to get the crank bolt holes to line up? Sorry about the bolt breaking.....now that concerns me. But it really is a great peace of mind & insurance! Especially seeing the old belt you pulled off when you got this car. I remember some years back when I was replacing the clutch in my E34 '92 535i, the pressure plate retaining screws were a soft socket button head & the 1st one I tried simply remove stripped the hex out. The trick there was to give the ratchet a 'POP' to break it free instead of trying to muscle it off. A hard lesson! Then replace with class 8 socket heads, similar to the 2 you used on the seal guard.
@@50sKid Not by turning the Hex nut, by fitting the capture hex opening over the crank hex in the different positions over the nut (indexing it) without turning the nut. Like 1,3,5 O'clock. Surely they made it with all the bolt openings so that it would match the screw holes in one of those positions.
Hi Jason!! I have a 2000 323i with a A5S360R GM TRANNY and according the dealer it takes ATF2. What oil do you recomend for a filter and fluid change? Do I go with the Castrol transmax import or the Valvoline ATF?
I see that Malo (and others) make a version that is for "N52/N54/..." so I suspect it will. You could also ask VTT, I dont know why they don't list the N52 for it. I am planning on doing it on an N52 when I replace the oil filter housing gaskets.
@@mrpriceisright prolly cus it uses steel hardware it will mess with the magnesium and start reactions on n52. best to buy the m8x37 tty bolts new and take the guess work out
It's unfortunate that the bolt holes didn't line up for you. That's the reason I haven't done this to my car-- I don't want to be stuck with something that won't fit without turning the crank bolt (I imagine it would be hard to turn AND require the purchase of a flywheel hold tool).. But I also wonder why VTT (or someone else) doesn't make a slightly modified version that will fit on all of the ones that the original one won't fit. If you offset the oblong bolt holes by 30 degrees (60 deg between holes in a 6 bolt circle, so half that), it seems you could make it work for all cars. Or make three versions offset by 20 degrees-- that should guarantee enough coverage along with enough material on the web to ensure strength. I'm looking at you Vargas.
50s kid is not that same guy. There is no charming anymore. I was wondering why it had happened and then I noticed he lost weight. In my opinion, being slim it is not his can of fish
You are an invaluable member of the DIY bmw community. Even if you aren't getting the views you used to, just know that we still appreciate you more than ever. Thank you for everything you've done for us
Jason your presentational style really is one of the best on TH-cam. Travels really well globally. Pleasure to watch.
Thank you for saying that!
Thank you for showing your mistakes. That makes the rest of us feel better, knowing that a master mechanic makes mistakes too.
Those aluminum torque to yield bolts are notorious for breaking on the way out if put under any stress say with an impact or something. Did my oil pan and rear main seal on the E93 and got luck, no broken bolts. Nice video.
Replacing the pulley that should have ribs is so so important, especially if the car is enjoyed to it's fullest potential as a dance partner, part number to do so is Dayco 89008
Not a lot of room to work. You show great patience.
Really glad you made this vid! I commented on another serpentine belt shred vid you had uploaded about installing this.. I wish I'd known about this prior to it happening, but thank God I dodged a bullet.. to reiterate to everyone who owns an N52/N54/N55, you must get this done ASAP.. and YES, this DOES affect N55 as the dampener design is essentially the same as prev gens. Be sure to install the crank bolt capture while you're at it, 2 birds with 1 stone; while I'm running MHD Stage 2+ which is nothing super crazy, it's nice to have that peace of mind. Why BMW had to change the design of the crank dampener is beyond me; my S54 in the e46 M3 has it done right.. the dampener covers the front main seal, acting as a seal guard, while the pulley portion is installed on the outside. Love that ATI makes a super damper for the S54 for which I'm using, thus it can be rebuilt over time for much cheaper than a full out OE dampener replacement. Just wish they had one for the N55!
And you gotta love when BMW decides to use aluminum one-time-use bolts.. again, love the M3, oil pan bolts aren't anything like this.. the Motorsport guys during that era knew what they were doing, and I very much miss it!
Just wanted to say, I appreciate the E90 videos. I learn a lot and appreciate the insights you have and the style it's presented in, if that makes sense (no BS, just slangn tools). Happy I found you. Keep it up!
Oh my heart felt that bolt when it broke! Oh the hate at that point is Geiger counter measurable. I obviously am not there to see how this is but i did watch another video where the guy did it with just a regular ratchet (Non powered) and had no probs. So we are all hoping this won't happen to us. LOL. Great job no matter!
Thank you. I will have to add one of those crank seal guards myself. Probably not needed with all leaks fixed and the correct (updated) subframe and/or the aluminium power steering pulley. But better to be safe than sorry. Keep the N54 videos coming. They have been great so far.
Great video! First of all - you looking great when lose weight and I have 1 Question - "what`s the difference between 3 hours work on the engine and 3 days work on the engine?"
Yeah - exactly what you show us. "One broken stud or bolt". I can feel your pain at this moment. Thanks for keeping that staff in your videos. Im still on m54 with 80k and planning to keep it forever =) but that`s great to see DIY videos for other engines on your channel.
Thank you so much for sharing the difficulties of the job. It’s a massive help
Did a belt job on 2013 x5 due to it shredding and luckily somewhere in the back of my head I remembered something i had read that Mentioned about the crank seal. Pulled the crank pulley off and it quickly turned into dropping the pan and oil pick up to remove all the pieces of belt that got sucked in.
Kudos to you my firend for sharing this informative video. Was pleased to learn about the potenital pitfalls of the snapped bolt and the misalignment of the crank bolt and the slotted holes in the guard. All things considered, and I'm not gong to be adding silly HP to my car, I'm going to do the same and fit the seal guard but not the crank bolt guard.
Jason...I just installed mine on out F15 N55 today, the belt guard. Now, I have a peace of mind. Thanks for your help. I was afraid of breaking the aluminum bolts, but they came off good!
That crankshaft stub bolt is specified at 300 Nm, which is just crazy high. I'm considering the addition of one of these guards after replacing the front seal on an E60/N52, and was going to time the engine and remove the stub shaft to clean it up and reduce the chance of future leaks. But when I saw that toque spec, I figure I'll just leave that stub shaft alone!!
I thought I was on the wrong channel hadnt watched in a while new man haha. Congrats on the weight loss
Here’s my theory on those bolts that BMW uses. I don’t think they are pure aluminum. I think they have some sort of maybe an antimony in them or something like that that causes electrolysis to set up in the bolt if it stays in place long enough. I have actually invested in a drill and tap set because of these stupid bolts. At my every convenience where it’s possible I actually end up using 3/8 threaded rod wrapped in Teflon tape to avoid electrolysis. It works fine I have been doing it for years now. Most times I actually make a stud and put a nut in washer on the end of that. No more do I have to go in and worry about a BMW bolt breaking off in my head or wherever else. At least not the ones I’ve replaced anyway.
I watch your videos for my e46, and now for my 335i too
I have both installed on my 335 n 54 and it's a life insurance so install both the crank seal capture too.
excellent work and explanation in real life. 100-100 i do NOT use any impact or power tools on my BMW . aluminum bolts are not a good idea and i try to stay away from twisting of any bolt.... so i go easy and slow (and scared)... and surely do not want to do things over again and again...aluminum bolts?? ( i have to do the front engine seal on my 2013 x5 35i ... not looking forward to it at all... the thing is ...leave it to these engineers to complicate these vehicles!!.grrrrrrrr great video!!
Was hoping you had a full timing chain tutorial video!! Really need help with this , in the middle of working on it
Thank you Jason for this video. Just when you think things are going good and then something snaps. Happened to me one to many times.
Always learning, another brilliant demonstration.
you also have to be careful, if you loosen the screw at an angle, the screw may get stuck in the thread and destroy the thread. In that case an easy out doesn't help anymore. Soft aluminium😐
Great job getting that broken bolt out.
Similar issue to the corvette c5 harmonic balancer wobbling problem. But this preventative method is much easier to install than fixing the crank shaft seal.
PSA: Check your power steering pump bolts. Mine worked themselves loose, which caused my serpentine belt to fall off.
Dude, that's the cleanest engine bay I have seen, how 🤔 did you get it that clean, nice!
I cleaned the subframe when I did the oil pan -- still need to clean off the front of the engine though!
Hi Mr Jasonwe are so happy to have you are making a N54 content
Thanks for all the videos. Ive noticed that I’ve never heard you mention FCP euro for BmW parts. I’ve been using them since I got my E46 325i and have been able to replace and restore everything with their lifetime warranty. Even replacing my oil for free! I know you’re far in CA , they’re on CT but they ship fast. They usually carry all OEM stuff or at least OE.
Btw You’re looking great and it’s awesome to see the progress you make on all your BMW’s and your own know how over the years. You’ve saved me a lot of time and money!
Because oembimmerparts.com is my sponsor, not fcp euro. ;-)
He is sponsored by another company that's why
Glad to see your channel coming back after such a long hiatus. I notice you look much more energetic after losing some weight. Congratulations! Will you make videos on how you achieve this?
When I was changing the water pump on my 535, everything was going way too smoothly. I went to tighten the last bolt and broke the head off! Holy s#!t was I mad… Ha, still get a little mad just thinking about it lol
Oooph! Sucks. I almost never break bolts these days.
ATF cooler lines in the way? I think it’s time for a manual swap 👀 long time viewer, I did a e46 manual swap thanks to your guidance.
Huge respect to you man you’ve saved me many times!!
great vid super informative and straightforward
wish I'd known about this when I swapped engine (x3/n52) last year. Had to replace timing chain guide and redo front seal, timing and crank bolt, quite a job, particularly the crank bolt. wondered at the time if there was a way to protect the motor from the infamous belt suck in. This looks like its not too hard (with the caveat on the alum bolts).
Happens because you used a power tool on aluminum bolts, you were supposed to loosen by hand.
That is what he said himself at the beginning
Are you sure those two aluminum bolts don’t have to be angle torqued ?
Every aluminum bolt on my bmw that I have come across so far had to be angle torqued to 90 or 180 degrees.
The ones that came with the block off plate are steel and indicated to be torqued to 25 ft lbs
@@50sKid The original bolts were aluminum for a reason. Your block is magnesium. Steel bolts will react with the magnesium.
@@seanpaul3050 Not on the N54. The N54 has a aluminium block, but many screws are aluminium because they are also used on the N52 and/or N53 which both have a magnesium/aluminium block. I wish they had used all steel hardware on the N54. Would have saved a lot of broken screws over the years.
@@seanpaul3050 n54 not magnesium
Some of the other similar kits come with stainless bolts, but they say you can use the alum bolts if you prefer.
Great video, Jason. Thanks for sharing!
thanks so much for that information, great job!
is it normal for the top of the gaurd to bend forward? its almost an 1/8" away from the block when i torqued it
no it will rub against the harmonic balancer
Good job 👍🏼 I will be coming back to see this video again
YOU ARE THE BEST ON TH-cam
Thanks!
I have a video of what happens inside the engine when the belt gets sucked in there.
Very helpful and solid education. Thanks.
When the wheel moved, did the engine timing got affected ? You didn't say anything
You mentioned fragments getting In the oil pan is the strainer fine enough that the fragments don't circulate through the engine not sure how bad mine is yet
Thanks for sharing this information I am doing a valve cover gasket job on my car and when I removed the cover I saw parts of a belt that slipped out before, also I had a p0012 code I think that’s what caused the code 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️ after I finish the job I will find out😅
Have a great weekend and thanks for the video.
I shredded a belt just dont want to pull the balancer and check. My crank guard could of worn down or been chewed when it chews a belt. It sheers off the engine side because of the balancer design.
Did you end up moving the crank guard? What did you find out …
The aluminum bolts strike again! Are those new bolts steel?
They are, but of course now there is a risk of a reaction with the aluminum/magnesium engine block. But I’ll take that chance
@@50sKid You should be ok with steel bolts. I think bmw only used them in the n54 because they use the same bolt set in the n52 oilpan with the magnesium block.
Man,you lost a lot of pounds Jason. Nice to see you again:)
Thanks!
He really did I just randomly remembered him from when I owned my e36 like 4 years ago and was like I wonder how his channel is doing
14:13 que the “curb your” meme music😂😂😂
Whats the recommended torque spec on the 6 bolts for the harmonic balancer / crank pulley?
You said the torque was 25 is that ft lbs? Thanks
My mechanic put the guard and now I need new pullys lol they are leaning back and forth
The bolt broke…….I felt that pain!
What about on the N51?? Does this apply to the sulev?
Hey bro do you have a video on a timing chain replacement on n54 , really need help on it
Thanks for this video Jason! This is next on our N55 X5 to-do list. I was not aware of the crank bolt "lock" that didn't fit. I'm curious if you tried to 'clock' it to get the crank bolt holes to line up? Sorry about the bolt breaking.....now that concerns me. But it really is a great peace of mind & insurance! Especially seeing the old belt you pulled off when you got this car.
I remember some years back when I was replacing the clutch in my E34 '92 535i, the pressure plate retaining screws were a soft socket button head & the 1st one I tried simply remove stripped the hex out. The trick there was to give the ratchet a 'POP' to break it free instead of trying to muscle it off. A hard lesson! Then replace with class 8 socket heads, similar to the 2 you used on the seal guard.
Since I don’t have the crank holding tool, I didn’t bother trying to tighten it!
@@50sKid Not by turning the Hex nut, by fitting the capture hex opening over the crank hex in the different positions over the nut (indexing it) without turning the nut. Like 1,3,5 O'clock. Surely they made it with all the bolt openings so that it would match the screw holes in one of those positions.
@@oldjarhead1125 6 holes, 6 sided bolt -- every way was the same ya know?
Does the M52TU, M54, and the N52 also have this possible belt catastrophe ?
They must’ve used a little too much sealant during assembly because mine came out like butter when I did it a year ago
Will this work with my n51 sulev 2008 328xi ?
Yes, you look good bro
Hi Jason!! I have a 2000 323i with a A5S360R
GM TRANNY and according the dealer it takes ATF2. What oil do you recomend for a filter and fluid change? Do I go with the Castrol transmax import or the Valvoline ATF?
Either one should work, I believe.
I’ll buy that vtt hub bolt capture of off you..lmk ty
Good to know!
I seen a change in your face I hope your healthy man
on the m54 isnt there a new bolt that you put the wire through to stop it backing off?
Yep, that is the oil pump sprocket bolt though
That's a cool little protector. I'd be the one who that bolt would snap off for too. Nice video.
LOL, i love those bolts, wrenching in a nutshell, I left my AC compressor with 2 bolts with one of those bolts :D
Looking good!!
Always love your videos … ever gonna give updates on Instagram again?
Thank you. Do you know if N52/51 is different? The part description specifically says N54.
I see that Malo (and others) make a version that is for "N52/N54/..." so I suspect it will. You could also ask VTT, I dont know why they don't list the N52 for it. I am planning on doing it on an N52 when I replace the oil filter housing gaskets.
@@mrpriceisright prolly cus it uses steel hardware it will mess with the magnesium and start reactions on n52. best to buy the m8x37 tty bolts new and take the guess work out
Thank you bro
hello can i contact with you about cooperation
No blue locktight for upside down bolts .
And for the pulley
It's unfortunate that the bolt holes didn't line up for you. That's the reason I haven't done this to my car-- I don't want to be stuck with something that won't fit without turning the crank bolt (I imagine it would be hard to turn AND require the purchase of a flywheel hold tool).. But I also wonder why VTT (or someone else) doesn't make a slightly modified version that will fit on all of the ones that the original one won't fit. If you offset the oblong bolt holes by 30 degrees (60 deg between holes in a 6 bolt circle, so half that), it seems you could make it work for all cars. Or make three versions offset by 20 degrees-- that should guarantee enough coverage along with enough material on the web to ensure strength. I'm looking at you Vargas.
Bruh am i imagining or he lost some majure weight ? WHAT
75 lbs so far 👍
Nice job :)
es ist nicht gut alles mit dem Schrauber zu machen...
working on cars NEVER goes to plan !
5:56 Marvin Gaye Let's Get It On.
That Fan probably comes out like 10 times a month lol
Seriously. I'm also near ready to leave the plastic underbelly shields off lol
50s kid is not that same guy. There is no charming anymore. I was wondering why it had happened and then I noticed he lost weight. In my opinion, being slim it is not his can of fish
Hes losing weight! Awsome what's your secret to help lose weight?
Exercise and eating less lol
@50sKid keep up the good work and please post more videos! Love your expertise.
Garbage... don't use it if your car is making real power get a 2 pin crank hub... the belt guard works somewhat
Note : after all you see about the fan coming it will not. There still is a wire on the left to disconnect.
You have lost a lot of weight!