I had this on my G25 pedals and loved it. I have CST's now, but if anything goes wrong with the CST's, I will go back to the G25/AP Electrix while the CST's get fixed and not loose too much with brake control. With AP's, tThe biggest thing to get used to is that there is little movement with the brake pedal, but it is easy to get used to.
I just replaced my Logitech Momo wheel and pedal, that I've used forever btw, with the G27. I immediately noticed the difference and my times did improve nicely. But I couldn't get my braking distance down to what the fast drivers were able to do because I almost always get wheel lock. Now I know why so I'll be modding my brake pedal to switch from pedal travel based braking to pedal pressure based braking. Awesome. Thx guys 4 all u do for simracing.
Shaun has done a good review of this product, Remember Andy Pastore has a full time job and makes these on the side so some delays in contact are IMHO unavoidable. These AP Cells give you foot pressure to resistance rather that position to resistance like a pot. I actually moved the top brass pivot well down in the side slots of the pedal arm giving a much finer feel.
Hey Shaun the fastest and easiest way to stop the brass bushing inside the Logitech spring holder is to gently tap a flat screwdriver between the Pedal and the red Plastic as a wedge giving just enough tension to undo the countersunk machine screws. :)
I have been using one of these for some time and have now progressed to my own design hydraulic, but there are 2 things that I feel MUST be done with this mod. The rubber blocks Andy supplies while they work do not survive for long, but if you cut a notch in both long sides so the block is now between the slide rods this provides an much flatter compression of the Force Sensor. relocating the top pivot to the slots below the original holes will give you a much nicer feel too.
Installed and used heavily for well over a year.. This is an excellent mod, and certainly will add to your enjoyment. It is super adjustable if used in conjunction with a BODNAR BOX.. and calibrating in windows as well as games.. It works in any racing game sim I have tryed it in..
For ps3 u have to connect the wires like you would the Bodnar. Dont do like me and connect normally. the following issue happened when i had it wired incorrectly. Brake was fully engaged when i wasnt pressing it and my throttle did whatever it wanted till i opened it back up and corrected wiring. Now works like a dream. Most important. Take ur time to remove the 3 pins. and i mean slow and steady.
I love it my lap time are 2-3 seconds faster. The leobodnar cable is a must to have with the apelectrix. It boost my lap times 3-4 seconds faster. I race on iracing
It took 6 months to receive a response from AP electrix. Only 3 days to my house once i completed the invoice, im located within the US. Im using it with my ps3 for GT5. Had the nixim mod in there before.
I use a box and turn the pedals upside down on the box. Take pedal faces off first. Undo 14 silver and 12 black screws and lift the bottom panel off only. This leaves wiring in place. Easy to left out pedal for mod. Routing wires is easy to for reassemble.
@NoNam3Mus1c unfortunately, can't directly compare to the APelectrix setup, but I am loving the load cell pedals. It takes some time to adjust the pressure sensitivity right. And I am glad I have that option on the CSR Elite pedals. But the ability to modulate by pressure is so worth the extra money to spend if you're serious about sim racing.
They are back in the cupboard atm.Hex screw is rounded on the brake pedal and I broke the connectors from the wire so there isn't enough length to solder anything unless I'm a wizz with the soldering iron.I had a few goes and failed.I have a fully workin AP mod stuck in a box that can't be opened and a Leo Bodnar cable.I screwed that up as well because the gas pedal oscilates up and down since using it.I totally destroyed my pedals attempting this mod and my simracing enjoyment.
if you listen, he says he is using the bodnar cable, which in a nutshell is a USB adapter that increases the resolution of the petentiometer and turns the pedals into a stand-alone.
I used small needle nose pliers. grabbed the sides of the main body and slowly wiggled and pulling with a pretty decent amount of force. Take ur time to put it onto the Ap Mod as well. its just a bit tight so just wiggle and apply force. "Remeber not to pull to hard when removing once the connector gets close to the end of the fitting. wires are short so u want to avoid ripping them.
i wired mine in the bodner config even though i plug the pedals into the wheel. i found that the pedals wouldn't work properly if wired stock. now my pedals work with the pc and ps3 normally and i can brake twice as well as before the mod was installed last year
it kinda auto calibrates itself when you press the pedal, so if you press just a little bit, GT5 will calibrate that small motion as 100% of pedal travel, that means it's 100% compatible with any mods that modify the original range of motion, like the Nixon mod.
Nice vid. My only BIG disappointment was not seeing any comparison to the Clubsport pedals. It seems obvious to me that you should have compared these two. I hope the little charade between Darin and Thomas will not affect the objectivity of this show. I hope Shaun would comment on how these compare to the CSPs.
This has been sooo simple and thank you for the very easy to understand guide. but now im trying to work out how to get this Allen key screw out of the piston.. one was easy the other is completely threaded .. strange considering first time its been opened up. looks like ill have to tap a flat head into it . note to Logitech .. please put your Allen key screws in with correctly sized Allen key lol.
So I'm guessing a potentiometer is just like the bvolume button on a speaker, so when you press the pedal all the way down it will just change the loading linearly on the way down. But with a load cell you can literally press the pedal to its extent of travel, then keep on pressing and increase braking pressure that way, whereas with the potentiometer if you press any harder at the end of the travel, it won't do anything??? Please answer :D
the thing is an gt5 issue (which i play a lot too). there are no adjustabilitys in that game. take the codemasters games... there you can always set deadzones to your pedals and stuff. so the question is: does it work properly with gt5? will it brake the whole time or never get to full breaking power if i cannot adjust anything?
Hm... If you had to choose between the Clubsport Pedals and this Mod, what would you choose? I wanted to buy CS Pedals this summer, but the price of this mod is pretty impressive!
I bought the tools required to do the job but those connectors that hold the wires are made of balsa metal.The screws are like putty also.Would be great if someone made a screw kit for these things.
The hardest part of this install to me is putting the lid back on lol.I could not get the ineer wire to route around those washer/screws.Drove me insane.The mod takes 30 minutes max.Putting the lid on - 3 hours.Actually I still haven't put mine on.
Great video and tutorial, but not everyone can be Shaun. I will pass on trying to do something like this when I get my G27. Maybe if I win the lottery, .... :)
Hey InsideSimRacing! First off, I love your show I just got into watching your videos and they are really entertaining. I do have a question. Im going to be purchasing a wheel for my pc, most likely the Logitech driving force gt, but what other wheels should I consider for around a $100 range? I know there isn't much, but Im saving money for college needs so thats my budget. Also I'd like to know if it is possible at a later date if I wanted to upgrade my pedals if I can do so w/ LDFGT?
I couldn't lolo.I have modded other things and built my PC which has run flawless for 2 years now but this mod you have to be careful because the G27's screws and connectors are very very low quality.I've modded a Thrustmaster Cougar throttle.That's a harder job but that mod worked.I just had a bad hair day doing the AP mod.Everything that could go wrong did.Waiting now on what to do.Probably get another G27 but I'm nervous about getting those little brittle connectors off again.
Yeah man.Andy has been very helpful. It was all my fault.I'm not a handyman at all.I can't even solder properly.Will probably just have to wait and save for some Fanatec Clubsports Elites atm.More my klutzness than Andy's mod.I'm sure it's great.
now that i got the load cell in and pluged back in It doesnt work :( well it thinks foots on break when its off it and thinks its off it when foots down. might have to swap red wire and black wire
I can't do this :-( Anyone know how to put the lid on tell me or show me a pic of where those screws go. Mod installed perfectly,have my Bodnar cable ready but I just can't get the lid back on.
I have a G27 and have two options : 1) Buy the AP Electrix brake mod 2) Sell the G27 and buy Fanatec Clubsport Pedals So which is better, G27 + AP Electrix, or the Fanatec Clubsport Pedals?
The AP electrix because it IS NOT a Load cell and is a DIRECT replacement requiring no additional Circuitry or wiring like the Richmotec does I am trying to get geared up to make a hydraulic conversion for Logitech series that requires no changes to any electronics other than swapping connections from the Pot to my hydraulic sender and removal of the original spring tower and replacing this with a sealed cylinder and sensor. www.apelectrix.com no longer exists either
No he isn't wrong. Nixim mod works perfectly in GT5 and calibrates EXACTLY how he described. I rn no ABS and can control braking perfectly with Nixim mod on my G25.
CSP are better but APE mod is cheaper and can be used with G27 on PS3, whereas you can't use CSP on PS3 with G27. If you're a PC racer go for the CSP if your budget allows you but you won't go wrong with APE neither.
im totaly disapointed that the putty screws have prooven impossible to remove on my unit. the allen key screws on the pedal. lucky i have 3 sets of pedals lol
i know what you mean, but its not that easy. i experienced the thing you wrote often with the g25. but i tried the clubsport pedals from fanatec for 2 weeks or so and not only the load cell was giving me bad trouble after some time. it DIDNT calibrate! so the gas was never on full power and after some time the brake was braking a littlebit all the time. nothing helped... tried restarting everything, unplug and pluggin it in again... no chance! sorry man. you are just wrong!
yeah, it's kind of getting old, i mean he should say or put something on his site if he is low on stock and making more to fill the quota, otherwise he seems dead. (Chillicoke)
The wires and the connectors and the srews are very low grade and you have to be very very careful otherwise they break or get rounded.I learnt the hard way.ALL MY BLOODY FAULT LOL.
Spent 40 bux on tools,bought the Nixim gas and clutch springs and this mod and just renewed iracing for 3 months and bought 3 tracks and cars.Now I can't do anything.FEEL LIKE SHIT.The wires are too tiny to solder and when I strip them,the inner wires are too thin anyway.Shoulda just got the Nixim brake spring and avoided those shit connectors altogether.
Also while you have it apart, switch the pedals around and hang them upside won.. GREAT MOD, and it keeps the components inside alot cleaner..
Shaun, you did a great job on camera, possibly your best effort yet. You seemed very relaxed and natural, as well as informative.
I had this on my G25 pedals and loved it. I have CST's now, but if anything goes wrong with the CST's, I will go back to the G25/AP Electrix while the CST's get fixed and not loose too much with brake control. With AP's, tThe biggest thing to get used to is that there is little movement with the brake pedal, but it is easy to get used to.
I just replaced my Logitech Momo wheel and pedal, that I've used forever btw, with the G27. I immediately noticed the difference and my times did improve nicely. But I couldn't get my braking distance down to what the fast drivers were able to do because I almost always get wheel lock. Now I know why so I'll be modding my brake pedal to switch from pedal travel based braking to pedal pressure based braking. Awesome. Thx guys 4 all u do for simracing.
Shaun has done a good review of this product, Remember Andy Pastore has a full time job and makes these on the side so some delays in contact are IMHO unavoidable.
These AP Cells give you foot pressure to resistance rather that position to resistance like a pot.
I actually moved the top brass pivot well down in the side slots of the pedal arm giving a much finer feel.
Hey Shaun the fastest and easiest way to stop the brass bushing inside the Logitech spring holder is to gently tap a flat screwdriver between the Pedal and the red Plastic as a wedge giving just enough tension to undo the countersunk machine screws. :)
I have been using one of these for some time and have now progressed to my own design hydraulic, but there are 2 things that I feel MUST be done with this mod. The rubber blocks Andy supplies while they work do not survive for long, but if you cut a notch in both long sides so the block is now between the slide rods this provides an much flatter compression of the Force Sensor. relocating the top pivot to the slots below the original holes will give you a much nicer feel too.
Sounds very promising and at this price point, it still makes sense to go for a mod instead of clubsport pedals. Great product!
Installed and used heavily for well over a year.. This is an excellent mod, and certainly will add to your enjoyment. It is super adjustable if used in conjunction with a BODNAR BOX.. and calibrating in windows as well as games.. It works in any racing game sim I have tryed it in..
I have e-mailed andy a few time over the past few months with no responce. Ive been really keen to get my hands on this since i watched this review
Thanks for the great step-by-step Shaun. I was wondering if you guys had done a full review? I am reasonably convinced and am debating getting one.
I was on the waiting list for this for well over 6 months and got tired of waiting and picked up the CSR elite pedals.
For ps3 u have to connect the wires like you would the Bodnar. Dont do like me and connect normally. the following issue happened when i had it wired incorrectly. Brake was fully engaged when i wasnt pressing it and my throttle did whatever it wanted till i opened it back up and corrected wiring. Now works like a dream. Most important. Take ur time to remove the 3 pins. and i mean slow and steady.
I love it my lap time are 2-3 seconds faster. The leobodnar cable is a must to have with the apelectrix. It boost my lap times 3-4 seconds faster. I race on iracing
Very good, Shaun! Your always so 'careful' when you mod a part of a racing wheel! I am definitely going to get this mod!
It took 6 months to receive a response from AP electrix. Only 3 days to my house once i completed the invoice, im located within the US. Im using it with my ps3 for GT5. Had the nixim mod in there before.
I use a box and turn the pedals upside down on the box. Take pedal faces off first. Undo 14 silver and 12 black screws and lift the bottom panel off only. This leaves wiring in place. Easy to left out pedal for mod. Routing wires is easy to for reassemble.
@NoNam3Mus1c unfortunately, can't directly compare to the APelectrix setup, but I am loving the load cell pedals. It takes some time to adjust the pressure sensitivity right. And I am glad I have that option on the CSR Elite pedals. But the ability to modulate by pressure is so worth the extra money to spend if you're serious about sim racing.
Great shirt!
They are back in the cupboard atm.Hex screw is rounded on the brake pedal and I broke the connectors from the wire so there isn't enough length to solder anything unless I'm a wizz with the soldering iron.I had a few goes and failed.I have a fully workin AP mod stuck in a box that can't be opened and a Leo Bodnar cable.I screwed that up as well because the gas pedal oscilates up and down since using it.I totally destroyed my pedals attempting this mod and my simracing enjoyment.
2:00 The overtightening part I get. But how can one overloosen a screw?!?
11doso11 easily.. keep going until the screw falls out ;-)
Inside Sim Racing And how is that bad?
+11doso11 depending on clutter you could lose the screw somewhere I guess...
+11doso11 I suppose you could strip the screw head
if you listen, he says he is using the bodnar cable, which in a nutshell is a USB adapter that increases the resolution of the petentiometer and turns the pedals into a stand-alone.
I used small needle nose pliers. grabbed the sides of the main body and slowly wiggled and pulling with a pretty decent amount of force. Take ur time to put it onto the Ap Mod as well. its just a bit tight so just wiggle and apply force. "Remeber not to pull to hard when removing once the connector gets close to the end of the fitting. wires are short so u want to avoid ripping them.
I don't even own a logitec but I watched and enjoyed the whole show.
i got this pedal mod. i mostly run nascar. it really helps with pitting
Informative and easy to understand video as always. Thank you Shaun.
Even tho you kill the warranty can you still buy parts to fix it yourself?
i wired mine in the bodner config even though i plug the pedals into the wheel. i found that the pedals wouldn't work properly if wired stock. now my pedals work with the pc and ps3 normally and i can brake twice as well as before the mod was installed last year
it kinda auto calibrates itself when you press the pedal, so if you press just a little bit, GT5 will calibrate that small motion as 100% of pedal travel, that means it's 100% compatible with any mods that modify the original range of motion, like the Nixon mod.
I got to do the nice soldering project, was a nightmare!
What is better? This or the hydraulic one?
Nice vid. My only BIG disappointment was not seeing any comparison to the Clubsport pedals. It seems obvious to me that you should have compared these two. I hope the little charade between Darin and Thomas will not affect the objectivity of this show. I hope Shaun would comment on how these compare to the CSPs.
This has been sooo simple and thank you for the very easy to understand guide. but now im trying to work out how to get this Allen key screw out of the piston.. one was easy the other is completely threaded .. strange considering first time its been opened up. looks like ill have to tap a flat head into it . note to Logitech .. please put your Allen key screws in with correctly sized Allen key lol.
Oh I forgot to add I actually moved the wires so they are all fixed in the base, Why because I remove the top cover regularly to clean out dust etc .
So that pedal shoot-out ever happening? I've got the Nixim2 mod and think it's great and I would like to know how these differ.
So I'm guessing a potentiometer is just like the bvolume button on a speaker, so when you press the pedal all the way down it will just change the loading linearly on the way down. But with a load cell you can literally press the pedal to its extent of travel, then keep on pressing and increase braking pressure that way, whereas with the potentiometer if you press any harder at the end of the travel, it won't do anything??? Please answer :D
the thing is an gt5 issue (which i play a lot too). there are no adjustabilitys in that game. take the codemasters games... there you can always set deadzones to your pedals and stuff.
so the question is: does it work properly with gt5?
will it brake the whole time or never get to full breaking power if i cannot adjust anything?
How do these pedals with this mod compare to Clubsport or CSR Elite pedals as far as braking is concerned.
Is it better than the Ricmotech's Load Cell brake mod?
sure is less expensive!
So, richmotech or AP Eletrix load cell?
The AP electrix because it IS NOT a Load cell and is a DIRECT replacement requiring no additional Circuitry or wiring like the Richmotec does
It is a load cell.
Everything Shawn is true you can brake late and trail brake in the corners. I'm out braking drivers on iracing
heard rumours about an other DIY rig. Any news on that?
Hm... If you had to choose between the Clubsport Pedals and this Mod, what would you choose? I wanted to buy CS Pedals this summer, but the price of this mod is pretty impressive!
I bought the tools required to do the job but those connectors that hold the wires are made of balsa metal.The screws are like putty also.Would be great if someone made a screw kit for these things.
I was just meant to write the same thing so which one it is? And is there any chance they ship this to Europe?
so you no longer ground the unit to the pedal with the o ring termination?
what about the maintenance?
i thinks it's affordable for me
and i'm start saving to buy this....
Hey Shaun, what is better? Perfect pedal or this? thanks
Nice! Shows just keep coming now.... Keep it up!
Hi, where can I get this load cell unit?
Does this work with gt5 ?
pretty sure to upgrade the pedals for the dfgt you can only get fanatec pedals which will run 80-200 and only for the PC.
I think the drill is at max torque when "loosening" & the adjustable torque is only when "tightening".
The hardest part of this install to me is putting the lid back on lol.I could not get the ineer wire to route around those washer/screws.Drove me insane.The mod takes 30 minutes max.Putting the lid on - 3 hours.Actually I still haven't put mine on.
is it worth upgrading from a nixim mod?
Brilliant review! thanx for the whole thing. Real top quality stuff
Great video and tutorial, but not everyone can be Shaun. I will pass on trying to do something like this when I get my G27. Maybe if I win the lottery, .... :)
Hey InsideSimRacing! First off, I love your show I just got into watching your videos and they are really entertaining. I do have a question. Im going to be purchasing a wheel for my pc, most likely the Logitech driving force gt, but what other wheels should I consider for around a $100 range? I know there isn't much, but Im saving money for college needs so thats my budget. Also I'd like to know if it is possible at a later date if I wanted to upgrade my pedals if I can do so w/ LDFGT?
I couldn't lolo.I have modded other things and built my PC which has run flawless for 2 years now but this mod you have to be careful because the G27's screws and connectors are very very low quality.I've modded a Thrustmaster Cougar throttle.That's a harder job but that mod worked.I just had a bad hair day doing the AP mod.Everything that could go wrong did.Waiting now on what to do.Probably get another G27 but I'm nervous about getting those little brittle connectors off again.
How can I use a F1 Ferrari wheel with
My G27 pedals for PS3?
Like you did?
That looks great.
I noticed that you didn't re install the ground wire ?
did you forget?
HAVE CHANGE AND THE PEDAL G27, PRA HOW DO I USE THE LOGITECH DRIVING FORCE GT?
Yeah man.Andy has been very helpful.
It was all my fault.I'm not a handyman at all.I can't even solder properly.Will probably just have to wait and save for some Fanatec Clubsports Elites atm.More my klutzness than Andy's mod.I'm sure it's great.
now that i got the load cell in and pluged back in It doesnt work :( well it thinks foots on break when its off it and thinks its off it when foots down. might have to swap red wire and black wire
I can't do this :-( Anyone know how to put the lid on tell me or show me a pic of where those screws go.
Mod installed perfectly,have my Bodnar cable ready but I just can't get the lid back on.
I have a G27 and have two options :
1) Buy the AP Electrix brake mod
2) Sell the G27 and buy Fanatec Clubsport Pedals
So which is better, G27 + AP Electrix, or the Fanatec Clubsport Pedals?
is this mod still available? the apelectrix website is dead
hey which one is better? ap eletrix or ricotech?
The AP electrix because it IS NOT a Load cell and is a DIRECT
replacement requiring no additional Circuitry or wiring like the
Richmotec does
I am trying to get geared up to make a hydraulic conversion for Logitech series that requires no changes to any electronics other than swapping connections from the Pot to my hydraulic sender and removal of the original spring tower and replacing this with a sealed cylinder and sensor.
www.apelectrix.com no longer exists either
it is a load cell.
Snapped two connectors.This mod by my poor handyness has killed my g27 pedals.
I bought the long nose pliers also to be careful.
still work with PS3?
Where would I find this mod now?
Im looking for this mod. Cannot locate it.
what the price on this and does it work on rfactor 2
No he isn't wrong. Nixim mod works perfectly in GT5 and calibrates EXACTLY how he described. I rn no ABS and can control braking perfectly with Nixim mod on my G25.
Will this work on a PS3? I play a ton of GT5 and want to know if it works.
Hey guys, any updates on brake mods for the G27?
change the spring for a harder one.
Donde puedo adquirirlo, comprarlo..??
Anyone care to upgrade the wheel and get rid of the clacking noise and wheel play that comes with it..?
$75 a unit?? do you think it's worth it shaun?
does this mod work if using an xbox one?
How does that calibration work on a PS3????
What does this mod do?
CSP are better but APE mod is cheaper and can be used with G27 on PS3, whereas you can't use CSP on PS3 with G27.
If you're a PC racer go for the CSP if your budget allows you but you won't go wrong with APE neither.
Does anyone know if he still selling the load cell, I made a pre-order 2 weeks ago thru the website and I have no response yet
im totaly disapointed that the putty screws have prooven impossible to remove on my unit. the allen key screws on the pedal. lucky i have 3 sets of pedals lol
Are you Darren....iRacing forums?
where to buy???!!!
at the mall near your city
janhersepan ???
Very interesting Thanks for it ;)
How can I remove a wheel from Logitech G27 ?
why only one pedal?
Good vid ! Thanks for the tips
killachief187 Our pleasure
you can calibrate the pedals in GT5.
you gottabekidding?
great video, think I'l order one of these :D
i know what you mean, but its not that easy. i experienced the thing you wrote often with the g25. but i tried the clubsport pedals from fanatec for 2 weeks or so and not only the load cell was giving me bad trouble after some time. it DIDNT calibrate! so the gas was never on full power and after some time the brake was braking a littlebit all the time. nothing helped... tried restarting everything, unplug and pluggin it in again... no chance! sorry man. you are just wrong!
Thanks ! ;-)
yeah, it's kind of getting old, i mean he should say or put something on his site if he is low on stock and making more to fill the quota, otherwise he seems dead. (Chillicoke)
The wires and the connectors and the srews are very low grade and you have to be very very careful otherwise they break or get rounded.I learnt the hard way.ALL MY BLOODY FAULT LOL.
Spent 40 bux on tools,bought the Nixim gas and clutch springs and this mod and just renewed iracing for 3 months and bought 3 tracks and cars.Now I can't do anything.FEEL LIKE SHIT.The wires are too tiny to solder and when I strip them,the inner wires are too thin anyway.Shoulda just got the Nixim brake spring and avoided those shit connectors altogether.
no way... how would u do that?