there's a pause feature... it would just wait for you. not much effort to do what he did. if you did this method you might not care about the time wasted or plan accordingly.
@@lupusk9productions it's good if the print was multiple color but one colour. A 8 hours print will be completed in the morning without waiting for you to put parts in and resume. Using support will be able to estimate the time and planning. Cutting part sometimes ruins your print.
It’s still a good trick to have up ones sleeve I think, depends on the part, some will be easier with support but this could also save a lot of work for certain parts where removing support would be tricky
@Enchanted Goose I don't get my point. Ex. 8 hours print overnight, pause at 12am wait for you to put the part in the morning. If you use support, the print would be completed in the morning.
I don't get it. You print the part to attach first then attach it when the base part pauses for you to add the attached part. Besides that it's not very different than a normal print. Either get a printer with a reliable power resume feature or get a UPS.
Could also print it sideways. Would need a little support to prevent rolling, but not much, and could be more easily removed than a large bridge support. And only pass needed.
I love this idea!! But does require maybe a little more work. Unless you print them both at the same time. And have the printer stop at a certain point so that way you can take the piece that was printed and just put it on top and continue the print again. I’m just saying because you said you printed previously. But I’m just saying would you be able to just print them both out at the same time? But I think that would also depend on how big your printer surface is? I don’t have a printer xD but I like seeing ideas like this because it’s a solution to a problem. Just takes time to figure out how you can use this technique on your own prints.
yeah, same here. Although " as strong as if it had been printed in one go" is technically not correct, I think, because the inserted piece is only held in place by one layer.
@@QiwiPear no, if you look at 0:30 you can see that he inserts the part into a pocket. After that the printer puts a couple of layers above. But the only force resisting the part to break out of the top is the adhesion of one layer. If you had printed this in one every layer would extend into the bottom part and fuse like this.
Great idea, I have paused prints in the past to fill them with sand and epoxy resin to add weight to the part, but I never thought of dropping another part in to match the level and then having it bonded by the next layer, you have done the community a great service by sharing this method and I salute you for it!
This is honestly a really good idea Solvents work well for fusing sure I’m sure we all love avoiding those fumes where we can - after years in o-chem labs and working as a pharmacist, I think I’ve probably copped too much already hahahahahahaha
I sometimes use a soldering iron to fuse parts. Sometimes pushing a staple between them for strength, and loose filament to fill gaps, but it's tricky trying to keep a uniform surface and isn't good if you care about aesthetics. Also you are limited with the parts the iron can reach, which is just the outside surface.
@@ArcanePath360 you should try a 3D printing pen, they are very cheap now. Then rather than just melting the parts together you can add extra material too, which is good for filling gaps.
@@conorstewart2214 Thought about that many times, but many just don't get up to temperature. They are like 190c at the tip. No good structurally and when you use PLA+ which works better at 205c+
The only reason people don't don't do this much back then due hobbyist desktop printer sucks at resuming printing.Alignment and tolerance will be out of wack.
@@schizophrenicgaming365 there's a good maker called Cloakfiend that uses plaster to weigh his printed sculpts, then copperplates his sculptures, I recommend his channel he does lots of new and interesting techniques and tests materials for us.
I’m not sure itll have the same strength as if printed normally. There will be a definite weakness at the interface between the old part since they are not bonded. Thus, the strength will decrease proportionally to the size of this interface.
Yeah for strong functional prints, everything about the design and how it's sliced/printed is a different mindset. Depending on the material, using a suitable adhesive or solvent to bond the parts or even melt them together at the contact points could end up comparable but I'd avoid this as much as possible. In this case, I doubt it would be substantial enough to matter simply because it's not designed for strength to begin with.
It always depends on the design and function. He has created keys to insert the part which will make it way stronger. For many designs this is the fastest and best way, just not for all.
It's not as strong. If you pause a print 15min or so, depending of the material, and you resume, you don't get the same layer adherence. It doesn't matter for this part for sure but keep that in mind.
Idk. If you have 100% part cooling on, the previous layer shouldn't be that hot anyways. Having the Gcode stop the print for 10 seconds to drop in the top part shouldn't make that much of a difference.
The point is to consider this and other methods as options. Here it's not a functional part, so the strength difference doesn't matter. If you need to consider this for a functional part, there are mods you could make to the design that would compensate for the lack of solid bonding like making the support arms wider, etc.
pwaaa pwaaaaa. What a downer video loll. People have been doing this since 3D printers were invented. And it's not a solution, only a temporary workaround.
sure if you're not designing parts this can come off as scammy, but you're designing parts and need to pull off something similar, this video just provide one solutions... this is the same reason why i watch videos of gears with mechanical movement so i can gather ideas.
Nice idea, but absolutely misleading title then - because none of the parts actually needed support! So it's pretty much pointless to say that you printed it without supports, as it didn't need any.
I love stuff like this because it takes an idea that may well have been considered by many people many times, but puts it into a context that effectively says “cool idea, now DO IT.” Way too many ideas never make it past the concept stage for no better reason than “meh, don’t feel like it” when all it would take is a handful of supposedly “meh” ideas to make something brilliant - for example somethin like, oh I dunno… strapping together a few hobby motors and a funky resistor to make some doohickey that leaks hot plastic into weird shapes.
@@snickerdoooodleNah he's right. The only part he "ignored" was imbeding it back into the print but that's no different from just gluing them or melting them together
And yet, I don't see you posting a better one. Guess that means you're even more underwhelming and are only good at critiquing from a false ideological perspective, which makes you basically worthless in reality. 😂
Yeah the video title and thumbnail suggest some elaborate or novel solution, creating a difficult piece out of multiple easier pieces has been done since humans built things. I thought he did something like moving the z-axis down to print with a free hanging string. Inserting a the part during the print is newish I guess (but I've seen it before with things like nuts) but this isn't even really necessary here. Using glue would probably be easier and just as strong.
That's actually very smart for parts that can be difficult to remove supports on. A little effort in meshmixer would go a long way! Maybe even making use of acetone or some super glue to increase the strength of the bond to more than a few surface layers for parts that could make better use of the extra strength!
Don’t use acetone for PLA though - it’ll weaken it THF iirc is the one to go for there? But I’m not sure how neccesary it’d be if the hotend is ironing the surface too It achieves the same thing, turns the plastic layers into a liquid phase and then as they dry/cool they’ll solidify as one homogenous phase (at least I think it’s homogenous if the temp goes above glass point?)
Great idea. I think a tutorial explaining how to add whatever the necessary g code to a more standard printer would be a great follow up. (If this already exists on your channel I apologize)
There's no special g code here, and it can be done on any printer. He kind of explained it... you model this as two parts that happen to fit together. Slice them separately. Print the upper cone first. Then, when printing the lower cone and posts, pause it at the right height to insert the upper cone. Then continue printing. So the only non-routine part is you need to insert that pause at just the right layer. You could do that by editing in a pause in the G code, or I think some slicers allow you to insert a pause.
To pause the print is very simple, actually If you're using cura, all you have to do is go to extensions in the top right bar and select post processing After that you can enable a filament change and it'll pause and make beeping sounds (iirc) at the right layer
Like hiding the threads internally? Or threading it to facilitate that connection? Not the best at the CAD side yet, but holy shit thank you for the reminder that I need to learn how the extruding (mb if thats not the right term) features work CAD is such a useful tool I wish I’d taken the chance to learn it in highschool or had started earlier
@@BirnieMac1 Nothing to model in CAD. For example a M3 just make a cylindrical d2.5 hole and then cut the M3 right into the printed part with a thread cutter. Works best with through holes but works also with blind holes.
One of the best techniques I've seen for the past years, Chris! Thanks for posting. I'll subscribe. You could also print the top cone in a different colour ( same material ) way faster than doing it with supports.
So question. How did you know where to stop it and how to make sure the other part would fit in nicely without bulging up at the top. I’m confused because I want to use this method but don’t know how
3D printer gurus will talk about not wasting material on support structures while printing something that solves absolutely no purpose other than wasting material. Or it maybe brings over the point, but still, support is not as wasteful as most dumb prints that people do out in the world.
You put a pause in the gcode at the point where the second part is added. The printer pauses, and once you place the upper cone in the print, you hit resume on the printer and it finishes
What a great idea with huge potential. I'm going to rethink the way I slice from now on. I'm often wondering about orientation and this might solve some issues I've often had
I’m not gonna lie, the whole ending a video to loop “perfectly” with the beginning in Tik Toks and TH-cam shorts thing is getting really old. It adds nothing to the video and it’s not clever anymore.
Except for the fact that, no, it'd not anywhere near as strong. The bottom part isn't connected and unlike a normal print unless you preheated the next part, it would be dead cold, which means weaker layer adhesion
They should just make 3d printers print upside down. Then instead of having to make a thick support to hold up an object they could just print a thin tensile thread that could be cut off later. Though I guess it would still have to be thick enough to not wobble. So maybe it causes more problems than it solves. still it would be fun to see.
Great idea until overnight print, a little support will save you a lot of effort.
there's a pause feature... it would just wait for you. not much effort to do what he did.
if you did this method you might not care about the time wasted or plan accordingly.
@@lupusk9productions it's good if the print was multiple color but one colour. A 8 hours print will be completed in the morning without waiting for you to put parts in and resume.
Using support will be able to estimate the time and planning. Cutting part sometimes ruins your print.
It’s still a good trick to have up ones sleeve I think, depends on the part, some will be easier with support but this could also save a lot of work for certain parts where removing support would be tricky
@Enchanted Goose I don't get my point. Ex. 8 hours print overnight, pause at 12am wait for you to put the part in the morning. If you use support, the print would be completed in the morning.
I don't get it. You print the part to attach first then attach it when the base part pauses for you to add the attached part. Besides that it's not very different than a normal print. Either get a printer with a reliable power resume feature or get a UPS.
Very smart to do it with pauses to put magnets. Never thought of it before. Bravo!!
Thats actually really clever. I appreciate your creativity, it makes perfect sense and that’s hard to find on TH-cam Shorts.
sealing it after like this is SO cool.
Could also print it sideways. Would need a little support to prevent rolling, but not much, and could be more easily removed than a large bridge support. And only pass needed.
That's done great thinking right there! Well done!
I came here thinking it was clickbait but that is honestly clever.
😂😂 you are genius, that shit changed my thinking about physics 🎉
I love this idea!! But does require maybe a little more work. Unless you print them both at the same time. And have the printer stop at a certain point so that way you can take the piece that was printed and just put it on top and continue the print again. I’m just saying because you said you printed previously. But I’m just saying would you be able to just print them both out at the same time? But I think that would also depend on how big your printer surface is? I don’t have a printer xD but I like seeing ideas like this because it’s a solution to a problem. Just takes time to figure out how you can use this technique on your own prints.
I normally just make multiple parts and fuse them with a solding iron set to the correct temp.
Not just as strong but definitely a smart idea
I call this an assembly printing, we need a small arm to do this automatically.
Nice 😮😮
So you leave item 2 on the position. stop, insert item (no additional layer) and continue?
you cant add like a thin layer? right?
How bout printing it horizontally?
I can see the line break on the top part and not the bottom. I don’t even print and it’s a no from me.
Cool!
Cool 🔥
Omg I was seriously thinking you hacked the P1P haha
hack what? gravity?
Bro thought he hacked physics
@@rubendariovelez Thats not what he meant
@@08B6 what he meant?
@@rubendariovelez this made me laugh more than I care to admit
A very interesting idea... I've inserted magnets, weights, etc before, but not other plastic parts! Why not! Thank you for the great tip!
This part has a great tip.
yeah, same here. Although " as strong as if it had been printed in one go" is technically not correct, I think, because the inserted piece is only held in place by one layer.
@@jannsander isn't every layer?
@@QiwiPear no, if you look at 0:30 you can see that he inserts the part into a pocket. After that the printer puts a couple of layers above. But the only force resisting the part to break out of the top is the adhesion of one layer. If you had printed this in one every layer would extend into the bottom part and fuse like this.
@@jannsander I see. I forgot that the slots themselves aren't fused
Ah, that bamboo anti-gravity add-on kit was well worth the investment. 👍
They have extra employees where watch 24/7 all cams of the printers and send a guy just in time when you sleep. Just leave a key under the doormat😅 😅
Astronaut 3d printing on the ISS, "I see no problem here"
@@OnyDeus now you got me wondering
Great idea, I have paused prints in the past to fill them with sand and epoxy resin to add weight to the part, but I never thought of dropping another part in to match the level and then having it bonded by the next layer, you have done the community a great service by sharing this method and I salute you for it!
That is actually an old hat
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
I tried sand once and forgot the fan was on high (probably at 100%). Never again 😂
@@tylers2889 Thats the exact reason I added epoxy over the top of it
@@tylers2889 lol, would like to have seen that.
This is honestly a really good idea
Solvents work well for fusing sure
I’m sure we all love avoiding those fumes where we can - after years in o-chem labs and working as a pharmacist, I think I’ve probably copped too much already hahahahahahaha
Why did you stop being a pharmacist
@@Verzula health reasons mostly
My spine isn’t the best so can’t do the long days standing anymore
I sometimes use a soldering iron to fuse parts. Sometimes pushing a staple between them for strength, and loose filament to fill gaps, but it's tricky trying to keep a uniform surface and isn't good if you care about aesthetics. Also you are limited with the parts the iron can reach, which is just the outside surface.
@@ArcanePath360 you should try a 3D printing pen, they are very cheap now. Then rather than just melting the parts together you can add extra material too, which is good for filling gaps.
@@conorstewart2214 Thought about that many times, but many just don't get up to temperature. They are like 190c at the tip. No good structurally and when you use PLA+ which works better at 205c+
Bambu owners discovering the ancient ways of FDM
not a bad thing
The only reason people don't don't do this much back then due hobbyist desktop printer sucks at resuming printing.Alignment and tolerance will be out of wack.
This is the 3d printer equivalent of "if you shine a yellow light on a blue wall, what colour is the wall? Blue."
I read people use Rice in the infill to make prints heavier lol
I'm actually looking into using plaster to weigh printed lamps down
What about lead shot or metal BBs?
I have used sand with great results
@@schizophrenicgaming365 there's a good maker called Cloakfiend that uses plaster to weigh his printed sculpts, then copperplates his sculptures, I recommend his channel he does lots of new and interesting techniques and tests materials for us.
@@skaramicke good idea
I’m not sure itll have the same strength as if printed normally. There will be a definite weakness at the interface between the old part since they are not bonded. Thus, the strength will decrease proportionally to the size of this interface.
Yeah for strong functional prints, everything about the design and how it's sliced/printed is a different mindset. Depending on the material, using a suitable adhesive or solvent to bond the parts or even melt them together at the contact points could end up comparable but I'd avoid this as much as possible.
In this case, I doubt it would be substantial enough to matter simply because it's not designed for strength to begin with.
Throw some gluestick on top of the inverted cone to increase strength…right?😂
@@Aquaponic0 Not a bad idea. A bit of hot glue to fill in the gaps of the infill would make the part even stronger than if it were printed normally.
I wonder if adding thin, shallow ridges on interfacing plane would make the connection stronger (depth being same as print layer height)
It always depends on the design and function.
He has created keys to insert the part which will make it way stronger. For many designs this is the fastest and best way, just not for all.
Very cool. Implanting other 3d printed parts into the print. Adopted!
pretty great hack! 👏😎
Ahah nice trick! I'm used to embedding magnets and nuts this way, but indeed, embedding printed parts might allow nearly seamless fusion
Ur idea is also Brilliant
A known concept integrated with clever thinking. Nice.
It's not as strong. If you pause a print 15min or so, depending of the material, and you resume, you don't get the same layer adherence. It doesn't matter for this part for sure but keep that in mind.
That's what the harbor freight heat gun is for...get that part nice and soft again
@@joecee6862 thanks for the tips, I ´ll remember it.
The bond is weaker due to the lower temperature in the preprinted part
Idk. If you have 100% part cooling on, the previous layer shouldn't be that hot anyways. Having the Gcode stop the print for 10 seconds to drop in the top part shouldn't make that much of a difference.
The point is to consider this and other methods as options. Here it's not a functional part, so the strength difference doesn't matter.
If you need to consider this for a functional part, there are mods you could make to the design that would compensate for the lack of solid bonding like making the support arms wider, etc.
How about heating the part on heating plate in controlled temp before joining them..
Can I do with ender 3s1
in theory you can do it with any printer
pwaaa pwaaaaa. What a downer video loll. People have been doing this since 3D printers were invented. And it's not a solution, only a temporary workaround.
I tend to oversupport my prints but my fail rate is really low.
Id rather have 10 minutes extra cleanup time other than a 5hr failed print
aaaand clickbait.
okay that freaking brilliant, i thought this was a click bait scam video, but i left pretty impressed.
it sure is a fuckin scam lol... 2 prints bruh
This is almost the definition of click-bate.
sure if you're not designing parts this can come off as scammy, but you're designing parts and need to pull off something similar, this video just provide one solutions... this is the same reason why i watch videos of gears with mechanical movement so i can gather ideas.
Oh. Well thats less impressive than you let on
Dumbfounded... way to find a solution without overthinking it! The answer really was in front of us this whole time.
Genius
I was going to say it's obviously 2 parts, but inserting it mid print is genius
Nice idea, but absolutely misleading title then - because none of the parts actually needed support! So it's pretty much pointless to say that you printed it without supports, as it didn't need any.
Well, I usually just ignore the laws of physics
I love stuff like this because it takes an idea that may well have been considered by many people many times, but puts it into a context that effectively says “cool idea, now DO IT.”
Way too many ideas never make it past the concept stage for no better reason than “meh, don’t feel like it” when all it would take is a handful of supposedly “meh” ideas to make something brilliant - for example somethin like, oh I dunno… strapping together a few hobby motors and a funky resistor to make some doohickey that leaks hot plastic into weird shapes.
This also works if you want to embed a magnet into your models. Great advise.
nice job and i like how the voice over loops
Very underwhelmed by this "solution" to not using supports. Print two pieces? Uh, yeah.
I expected him to print one side upside down and then flip it
I mean if you're going to be completely reductive to the point of ignoring the point of the video, sure.
@@snickerdoooodleNah he's right. The only part he "ignored" was imbeding it back into the print but that's no different from just gluing them or melting them together
And yet, I don't see you posting a better one. Guess that means you're even more underwhelming and are only good at critiquing from a false ideological perspective, which makes you basically worthless in reality. 😂
Yeah the video title and thumbnail suggest some elaborate or novel solution, creating a difficult piece out of multiple easier pieces has been done since humans built things. I thought he did something like moving the z-axis down to print with a free hanging string.
Inserting a the part during the print is newish I guess (but I've seen it before with things like nuts) but this isn't even really necessary here. Using glue would probably be easier and just as strong.
That's actually very smart for parts that can be difficult to remove supports on. A little effort in meshmixer would go a long way! Maybe even making use of acetone or some super glue to increase the strength of the bond to more than a few surface layers for parts that could make better use of the extra strength!
Don’t use acetone for PLA though - it’ll weaken it
THF iirc is the one to go for there? But I’m not sure how neccesary it’d be if the hotend is ironing the surface too
It achieves the same thing, turns the plastic layers into a liquid phase and then as they dry/cool they’ll solidify as one homogenous phase (at least I think it’s homogenous if the temp goes above glass point?)
This is absolute genius.
Pretty cool ill have to give it a shot
Could you print it on it’s side
😢 Lies!! It's all just lies....😭
Obviously you could just insert a part. I thought you made this part legitimately, so annoying.
Great idea. I think a tutorial explaining how to add whatever the necessary g code to a more standard printer would be a great follow up. (If this already exists on your channel I apologize)
Totally agree, I’m still learning the CAD side and specifics of g-code so those more in depth explanations are invaluable at times
There's no special g code here, and it can be done on any printer. He kind of explained it... you model this as two parts that happen to fit together. Slice them separately. Print the upper cone first. Then, when printing the lower cone and posts, pause it at the right height to insert the upper cone. Then continue printing. So the only non-routine part is you need to insert that pause at just the right layer. You could do that by editing in a pause in the G code, or I think some slicers allow you to insert a pause.
To pause the print is very simple, actually
If you're using cura, all you have to do is go to extensions in the top right bar and select post processing
After that you can enable a filament change and it'll pause and make beeping sounds (iirc) at the right layer
@@WithDaBoiz pausing with cura can be a pain in the ass if you use klipper though
Not sure why but I feel violated.
Composite 3d printing is awesome, i fused some hex nuts into one of my prints once to have a more sturdy screw base
where did you get the file
this is so smart
The loop transition is SO SMOOTH.
It almost looks like your video doesn't have a cut, until you go back and replay.
Nice looping edit.
I like insetting G10 for strength enhancement. Magnets is another cool one.
I usually cut M3-M5 threads directly in my PETG parts and this holds up perfectly
Like hiding the threads internally?
Or threading it to facilitate that connection?
Not the best at the CAD side yet, but holy shit thank you for the reminder that I need to learn how the extruding (mb if thats not the right term) features work
CAD is such a useful tool I wish I’d taken the chance to learn it in highschool or had started earlier
@@BirnieMac1 Nothing to model in CAD. For example a M3 just make a cylindrical d2.5 hole and then cut the M3 right into the printed part with a thread cutter. Works best with through holes but works also with blind holes.
No support eh? The question is... is that cheating? ;-)
Useless
Im trying this today
Click bait
Shame the seam of the change is visible
Or print it on its side :/
One of the best techniques I've seen for the past years, Chris! Thanks for posting. I'll subscribe. You could also print the top cone in a different colour ( same material ) way faster than doing it with supports.
That's cheating
So question. How did you know where to stop it and how to make sure the other part would fit in nicely without bulging up at the top. I’m confused because I want to use this method but don’t know how
3D printer gurus will talk about not wasting material on support structures while printing something that solves absolutely no purpose other than wasting material.
Or it maybe brings over the point, but still, support is not as wasteful as most dumb prints that people do out in the world.
i call the police
well, thats scam, disliked
baited
Can you move the unfinished part? Don’t you get an offset when you return printing?
He doesn't get the unfinished part off the bed, rather pausing the print right before the full top layer begins
How do you perform the final patching operation?
You put a pause in the gcode at the point where the second part is added. The printer pauses, and once you place the upper cone in the print, you hit resume on the printer and it finishes
Who knew printed parts could be stuck together…
that's a trick!...
a very useful trick 👌🏼 i would like to try
This gave me an idea - for something not so pointy, one can insert some support ramp. But it has to be heated and fixed to be stable 💁
What a great idea with huge potential. I'm going to rethink the way I slice from now on. I'm often wondering about orientation and this might solve some issues I've often had
Cheater ! 😀
I only watched it to say cap! But in the end i was impressed! Wow great idea!
I’m not gonna lie, the whole ending a video to loop “perfectly” with the beginning in Tik Toks and TH-cam shorts thing is getting really old. It adds nothing to the video and it’s not clever anymore.
So you cheated...
Except for the fact that, no, it'd not anywhere near as strong. The bottom part isn't connected and unlike a normal print unless you preheated the next part, it would be dead cold, which means weaker layer adhesion
Or just calibrate your settings properly and you won't have any marks from your supports
What about simply printing it sidedown ? Horizontally ?
Clickbait. Technically you didn’t print the “part” without supports. Lol
Not gonna lie, even though I own a 3d printer now for 5 years, the thought that it could be 2 parts didn’t cross my mind😂 I was like: Huh how the fk?!
They should just make 3d printers print upside down. Then instead of having to make a thick support to hold up an object they could just print a thin tensile thread that could be cut off later. Though I guess it would still have to be thick enough to not wobble. So maybe it causes more problems than it solves. still it would be fun to see.
Couldn’t you have printed it laying down? I’m a complete novice when it comes to 3D printing so I’m just asking
Better to just throw in support filament and go to sleep, then wake up to the finished product. Clean breakaway, same final product.
That was disappointingly deceptive.
Wont doing this make your part structurally weak though?
Normally I would just print it sideways 90°
Very easy 👌
😮nice
I love seeing videos like this. Now I have a ton more ideas for 3d models.
Awesome.... hiw do I fix jammed fillinent? And how does the happen? 2 times In 1 month.. Mines run 24 7
you said something about zero tolerances. how much space did you leave in the connection area to allow it to fit in, but not show?