printed WITHOUT support

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ความคิดเห็น • 832

  • @thearakong7159
    @thearakong7159 ปีที่แล้ว +5234

    Great idea until overnight print, a little support will save you a lot of effort.

    • @lupusk9productions
      @lupusk9productions ปีที่แล้ว +176

      there's a pause feature... it would just wait for you. not much effort to do what he did.
      if you did this method you might not care about the time wasted or plan accordingly.

    • @thearakong7159
      @thearakong7159 ปีที่แล้ว +32

      @@lupusk9productions it's good if the print was multiple color but one colour. A 8 hours print will be completed in the morning without waiting for you to put parts in and resume.
      Using support will be able to estimate the time and planning. Cutting part sometimes ruins your print.

    • @MrSyNRG
      @MrSyNRG ปีที่แล้ว +36

      It’s still a good trick to have up ones sleeve I think, depends on the part, some will be easier with support but this could also save a lot of work for certain parts where removing support would be tricky

    • @thearakong7159
      @thearakong7159 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      @Enchanted Goose I don't get my point. Ex. 8 hours print overnight, pause at 12am wait for you to put the part in the morning. If you use support, the print would be completed in the morning.

    • @benargee
      @benargee ปีที่แล้ว +3

      I don't get it. You print the part to attach first then attach it when the base part pauses for you to add the attached part. Besides that it's not very different than a normal print. Either get a printer with a reliable power resume feature or get a UPS.

  • @MiguelRodriguez2010
    @MiguelRodriguez2010 ปีที่แล้ว +1953

    Omg I was seriously thinking you hacked the P1P haha

    • @rubendariovelez
      @rubendariovelez ปีที่แล้ว +84

      hack what? gravity?

    • @Timtam99
      @Timtam99 ปีที่แล้ว +64

      Bro thought he hacked physics

    • @08B6
      @08B6 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      @@rubendariovelez Thats not what he meant

    • @rubendariovelez
      @rubendariovelez ปีที่แล้ว +4

      @@08B6 what he meant?

    • @BrDown
      @BrDown ปีที่แล้ว +8

      @@rubendariovelez this made me laugh more than I care to admit

  • @shenqiangshou
    @shenqiangshou ปีที่แล้ว +1180

    A very interesting idea... I've inserted magnets, weights, etc before, but not other plastic parts! Why not! Thank you for the great tip!

    • @davidosorio2913
      @davidosorio2913 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      This part has a great tip.

    • @jannsander
      @jannsander ปีที่แล้ว +8

      yeah, same here. Although " as strong as if it had been printed in one go" is technically not correct, I think, because the inserted piece is only held in place by one layer.

    • @QiwiPear
      @QiwiPear ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@jannsander isn't every layer?

    • @jannsander
      @jannsander ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@QiwiPear no, if you look at 0:30 you can see that he inserts the part into a pocket. After that the printer puts a couple of layers above. But the only force resisting the part to break out of the top is the adhesion of one layer. If you had printed this in one every layer would extend into the bottom part and fuse like this.

    • @QiwiPear
      @QiwiPear ปีที่แล้ว

      @@jannsander I see. I forgot that the slots themselves aren't fused

  • @marklee1209
    @marklee1209 ปีที่แล้ว +436

    Ah, that bamboo anti-gravity add-on kit was well worth the investment. 👍

    • @matneu27
      @matneu27 8 หลายเดือนก่อน +9

      They have extra employees where watch 24/7 all cams of the printers and send a guy just in time when you sleep. Just leave a key under the doormat😅 😅

    • @OnyDeus
      @OnyDeus 7 หลายเดือนก่อน +6

      Astronaut 3d printing on the ISS, "I see no problem here"

    • @shaymin7240
      @shaymin7240 2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@OnyDeus now you got me wondering

  • @AndrewAHayes
    @AndrewAHayes ปีที่แล้ว +235

    Great idea, I have paused prints in the past to fill them with sand and epoxy resin to add weight to the part, but I never thought of dropping another part in to match the level and then having it bonded by the next layer, you have done the community a great service by sharing this method and I salute you for it!

    • @Carpcontrol
      @Carpcontrol ปีที่แล้ว +2

      That is actually an old hat

    • @soacker25
      @soacker25 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

    • @tylers2889
      @tylers2889 ปีที่แล้ว +12

      I tried sand once and forgot the fan was on high (probably at 100%). Never again 😂

    • @AndrewAHayes
      @AndrewAHayes ปีที่แล้ว +4

      @@tylers2889 Thats the exact reason I added epoxy over the top of it

    • @ArcanePath360
      @ArcanePath360 11 หลายเดือนก่อน +5

      @@tylers2889 lol, would like to have seen that.

  • @JacobKinsley
    @JacobKinsley 7 หลายเดือนก่อน +62

    This is the 3d printer equivalent of "if you shine a yellow light on a blue wall, what colour is the wall? Blue."

  • @BirnieMac1
    @BirnieMac1 ปีที่แล้ว +219

    This is honestly a really good idea
    Solvents work well for fusing sure
    I’m sure we all love avoiding those fumes where we can - after years in o-chem labs and working as a pharmacist, I think I’ve probably copped too much already hahahahahahaha

    • @Verzula
      @Verzula ปีที่แล้ว

      Why did you stop being a pharmacist

    • @BirnieMac1
      @BirnieMac1 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Verzula health reasons mostly
      My spine isn’t the best so can’t do the long days standing anymore

    • @ArcanePath360
      @ArcanePath360 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

      I sometimes use a soldering iron to fuse parts. Sometimes pushing a staple between them for strength, and loose filament to fill gaps, but it's tricky trying to keep a uniform surface and isn't good if you care about aesthetics. Also you are limited with the parts the iron can reach, which is just the outside surface.

    • @conorstewart2214
      @conorstewart2214 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@ArcanePath360 you should try a 3D printing pen, they are very cheap now. Then rather than just melting the parts together you can add extra material too, which is good for filling gaps.

    • @ArcanePath360
      @ArcanePath360 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@conorstewart2214 Thought about that many times, but many just don't get up to temperature. They are like 190c at the tip. No good structurally and when you use PLA+ which works better at 205c+

  • @atulkhatri88
    @atulkhatri88 ปีที่แล้ว +99

    I read people use Rice in the infill to make prints heavier lol

    • @schizophrenicgaming365
      @schizophrenicgaming365 ปีที่แล้ว +12

      I'm actually looking into using plaster to weigh printed lamps down

    • @ColeUmland13
      @ColeUmland13 ปีที่แล้ว +10

      What about lead shot or metal BBs?

    • @skaramicke
      @skaramicke ปีที่แล้ว +13

      I have used sand with great results

    • @MaximilianonMars
      @MaximilianonMars ปีที่แล้ว

      ​@@schizophrenicgaming365 there's a good maker called Cloakfiend that uses plaster to weigh his printed sculpts, then copperplates his sculptures, I recommend his channel he does lots of new and interesting techniques and tests materials for us.

    • @MaximilianonMars
      @MaximilianonMars ปีที่แล้ว +1

      ​@@skaramicke good idea

  • @RowToney
    @RowToney ปีที่แล้ว +27

    A known concept integrated with clever thinking. Nice.

  • @NefariousElasticity
    @NefariousElasticity ปีที่แล้ว +11

    Bambu owners discovering the ancient ways of FDM

  • @no-expert
    @no-expert ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Thats actually really clever. I appreciate your creativity, it makes perfect sense and that’s hard to find on TH-cam Shorts.

  • @kitmarshall4084
    @kitmarshall4084 2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    okay that freaking brilliant, i thought this was a click bait scam video, but i left pretty impressed.

  • @brothermoment5352
    @brothermoment5352 ปีที่แล้ว +66

    I’m not sure itll have the same strength as if printed normally. There will be a definite weakness at the interface between the old part since they are not bonded. Thus, the strength will decrease proportionally to the size of this interface.

    • @JJFX-
      @JJFX- ปีที่แล้ว +5

      Yeah for strong functional prints, everything about the design and how it's sliced/printed is a different mindset. Depending on the material, using a suitable adhesive or solvent to bond the parts or even melt them together at the contact points could end up comparable but I'd avoid this as much as possible.
      In this case, I doubt it would be substantial enough to matter simply because it's not designed for strength to begin with.

    • @Aquaponic0
      @Aquaponic0 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Throw some gluestick on top of the inverted cone to increase strength…right?😂

    • @ArcanePath360
      @ArcanePath360 11 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

      @@Aquaponic0 Not a bad idea. A bit of hot glue to fill in the gaps of the infill would make the part even stronger than if it were printed normally.

    • @aleksandertrubin4869
      @aleksandertrubin4869 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      I wonder if adding thin, shallow ridges on interfacing plane would make the connection stronger (depth being same as print layer height)

    • @sierraecho884
      @sierraecho884 10 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

      It always depends on the design and function.
      He has created keys to insert the part which will make it way stronger. For many designs this is the fastest and best way, just not for all.

  • @jacksin3323
    @jacksin3323 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    Nice looping edit.
    I like insetting G10 for strength enhancement. Magnets is another cool one.

  • @testpilotmafia862
    @testpilotmafia862 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Very good work, stress risers are still present at the joints and the structure isn't isotropic but still a usefully method.

  • @kurtnelle
    @kurtnelle ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Very cool. Implanting other 3d printed parts into the print. Adopted!

  • @livedeliciously
    @livedeliciously ปีที่แล้ว +6

    This is absolute genius.

  • @masakikusahara5365
    @masakikusahara5365 9 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Besides the useful tip, I love how this video is made into a perfect endless loop!

  • @fuckutube65
    @fuckutube65 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Love how you make your voiceover loop, too! ;-D

  • @AlexanderEresov
    @AlexanderEresov ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Ahah nice trick! I'm used to embedding magnets and nuts this way, but indeed, embedding printed parts might allow nearly seamless fusion

    • @RiseUp_Again
      @RiseUp_Again ปีที่แล้ว

      Ur idea is also Brilliant

  • @Ugerflingy
    @Ugerflingy ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I love stuff like this because it takes an idea that may well have been considered by many people many times, but puts it into a context that effectively says “cool idea, now DO IT.”
    Way too many ideas never make it past the concept stage for no better reason than “meh, don’t feel like it” when all it would take is a handful of supposedly “meh” ideas to make something brilliant - for example somethin like, oh I dunno… strapping together a few hobby motors and a funky resistor to make some doohickey that leaks hot plastic into weird shapes.

  • @Modschala
    @Modschala ปีที่แล้ว +19

    The bond is weaker due to the lower temperature in the preprinted part

    • @RiverSparks
      @RiverSparks ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Idk. If you have 100% part cooling on, the previous layer shouldn't be that hot anyways. Having the Gcode stop the print for 10 seconds to drop in the top part shouldn't make that much of a difference.

    • @brianmi40
      @brianmi40 8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      The point is to consider this and other methods as options. Here it's not a functional part, so the strength difference doesn't matter.
      If you need to consider this for a functional part, there are mods you could make to the design that would compensate for the lack of solid bonding like making the support arms wider, etc.

    • @boodeehaha1751
      @boodeehaha1751 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

      How about heating the part on heating plate in controlled temp before joining them..

  • @hexerade.e6142
    @hexerade.e6142 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Composite 3d printing is awesome, i fused some hex nuts into one of my prints once to have a more sturdy screw base

  • @joshuabrown5558
    @joshuabrown5558 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    That's actually very smart for parts that can be difficult to remove supports on. A little effort in meshmixer would go a long way! Maybe even making use of acetone or some super glue to increase the strength of the bond to more than a few surface layers for parts that could make better use of the extra strength!

    • @BirnieMac1
      @BirnieMac1 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Don’t use acetone for PLA though - it’ll weaken it
      THF iirc is the one to go for there? But I’m not sure how neccesary it’d be if the hotend is ironing the surface too
      It achieves the same thing, turns the plastic layers into a liquid phase and then as they dry/cool they’ll solidify as one homogenous phase (at least I think it’s homogenous if the temp goes above glass point?)

  • @_billyk_
    @_billyk_ 10 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    I was going to say it's obviously 2 parts, but inserting it mid print is genius

  • @KevinRedmondWA
    @KevinRedmondWA 4 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    This also works if you want to embed a magnet into your models. Great advise.

  • @thomast7748
    @thomast7748 19 วันที่ผ่านมา +3

    It's not as strong. If you pause a print 15min or so, depending of the material, and you resume, you don't get the same layer adherence. It doesn't matter for this part for sure but keep that in mind.

  • @TheMNWolf
    @TheMNWolf หลายเดือนก่อน

    I can't believe I never thought to do this. Brilliant.

  • @JohanRL592
    @JohanRL592 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    this is so smart

  • @skunkwar7468
    @skunkwar7468 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I love seeing videos like this. Now I have a ton more ideas for 3d models.

  • @poodlescone9700
    @poodlescone9700 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This is an ingenius idea. Now I want to see how to design this.

  • @AlexanderBukh
    @AlexanderBukh 5 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    This gave me an idea - for something not so pointy, one can insert some support ramp. But it has to be heated and fixed to be stable 💁

  • @rodiculous9464
    @rodiculous9464 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Pretty cool ill have to give it a shot

  • @Trust_me_I_am_an_Engineer
    @Trust_me_I_am_an_Engineer 6 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    One of the best techniques I've seen for the past years, Chris! Thanks for posting. I'll subscribe. You could also print the top cone in a different colour ( same material ) way faster than doing it with supports.

  • @MrGerhardGrobler
    @MrGerhardGrobler ปีที่แล้ว

    Great. Pause at layer is perfect for this. I have known about magnet inserts and such. So this falls into that category. So impressed 😮

  • @whatschoen
    @whatschoen ปีที่แล้ว +4

    nice job and i like how the voice over loops

  • @CharlieBasta
    @CharlieBasta หลายเดือนก่อน

    That's brilliant. What a brilliant idea for smooth overhangs on neat designs like this. Great job.

  • @ArcanePath360
    @ArcanePath360 11 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    What a great idea with huge potential. I'm going to rethink the way I slice from now on. I'm often wondering about orientation and this might solve some issues I've often had

  • @michaelwelday926
    @michaelwelday926 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    The loop is so so perfect," and this is how"

  • @Freogeteknet
    @Freogeteknet หลายเดือนก่อน

    Feels like someone smart could embed this in the design program so it detects where this is a strategy that works! Really cool idéa!

  • @nootherusernamesleft
    @nootherusernamesleft 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    This is a very clever technique O hadn't thought of. I'll add this idea to my 3D printing toolkit. Thanks for sharing.

  • @baselsalam
    @baselsalam 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    The loop transition is SO SMOOTH.
    It almost looks like your video doesn't have a cut, until you go back and replay.

  • @blackbeton3923
    @blackbeton3923 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Nice idea, it’s always very useful to pause prints tonight insert parts

  • @ntc7335
    @ntc7335 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I usually cut M3-M5 threads directly in my PETG parts and this holds up perfectly

    • @BirnieMac1
      @BirnieMac1 ปีที่แล้ว

      Like hiding the threads internally?
      Or threading it to facilitate that connection?
      Not the best at the CAD side yet, but holy shit thank you for the reminder that I need to learn how the extruding (mb if thats not the right term) features work
      CAD is such a useful tool I wish I’d taken the chance to learn it in highschool or had started earlier

    • @ntc7335
      @ntc7335 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@BirnieMac1 Nothing to model in CAD. For example a M3 just make a cylindrical d2.5 hole and then cut the M3 right into the printed part with a thread cutter. Works best with through holes but works also with blind holes.

  • @jimmycastelliano4871
    @jimmycastelliano4871 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    great idea.can print in separated time frame.dont hv to wait the whole night to finish.

  • @onlineshaman
    @onlineshaman ปีที่แล้ว

    Nice idea, I will keep it in mind for future prints. In the model you show in the video I particularly like that you will not have any signs of supports on the cones! Big plus in my opinion... Cool!

  • @moen3249
    @moen3249 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    🤯So simple, yet still hard to implement. I will try it sometime.

  • @zyad48
    @zyad48 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This is simple but brilliant! I'm honestly a bit upset I didn't think of it myself haha

  • @EhRabz
    @EhRabz 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    sealing it after like this is SO cool.

  • @marsgizmo
    @marsgizmo ปีที่แล้ว

    pretty great hack! 👏😎

  • @sierraecho884
    @sierraecho884 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Great example, of an advanced 3D print technique.

  • @iantebo6377
    @iantebo6377 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Sneaky sneaky!! I love it

  • @catherine_404
    @catherine_404 ปีที่แล้ว

    That's wicked smart! Thank you for sharing!

  • @jeffsabel9363
    @jeffsabel9363 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I haven't thought of something like this. Very interesting I may have a project I could use this for. Thank you for posting.

  • @MadmanInUkraine
    @MadmanInUkraine ปีที่แล้ว

    Brilliant idea!!! Never ever thought of this!

  • @Robotnic25
    @Robotnic25 ปีที่แล้ว

    I never even thought about doing this. This is genius

  • @shibbleswentworth
    @shibbleswentworth 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Now we need the machines to think of this themselves

  • @mntbighker
    @mntbighker 9 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Great thinking outside the box.

  • @davidknighton9226
    @davidknighton9226 ปีที่แล้ว

    This is a good technique, I have done similar pause + prints

  • @justinurban7400
    @justinurban7400 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Great idea. I think a tutorial explaining how to add whatever the necessary g code to a more standard printer would be a great follow up. (If this already exists on your channel I apologize)

    • @BirnieMac1
      @BirnieMac1 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Totally agree, I’m still learning the CAD side and specifics of g-code so those more in depth explanations are invaluable at times

    • @Graham_Wideman
      @Graham_Wideman ปีที่แล้ว

      There's no special g code here, and it can be done on any printer. He kind of explained it... you model this as two parts that happen to fit together. Slice them separately. Print the upper cone first. Then, when printing the lower cone and posts, pause it at the right height to insert the upper cone. Then continue printing. So the only non-routine part is you need to insert that pause at just the right layer. You could do that by editing in a pause in the G code, or I think some slicers allow you to insert a pause.

    • @WithDaBoiz
      @WithDaBoiz ปีที่แล้ว +1

      To pause the print is very simple, actually
      If you're using cura, all you have to do is go to extensions in the top right bar and select post processing
      After that you can enable a filament change and it'll pause and make beeping sounds (iirc) at the right layer

    • @nikoraasu6929
      @nikoraasu6929 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@WithDaBoiz pausing with cura can be a pain in the ass if you use klipper though

  • @mikoaj2323
    @mikoaj2323 ปีที่แล้ว

    Sadly not many people know about this technique. I frequently see questions like "how do I print this without support". Keep in mind that it makes waterproof connection while still looking good.
    I made rear light for e-bike this way - printed black case, paused and inserted red transparent piece to print on top of it. Earlier i tried glueing red piece, using silicone, but this is the only aesthetic solution, which works perfectly.
    Also it's a way to have overhangs without this rough texture that support leaves

  • @coolworld101
    @coolworld101 ปีที่แล้ว

    Wow, I am using this from now on.

  • @jayce3991
    @jayce3991 ปีที่แล้ว

    At first I just assumed it was made in two prints but this is actually really cool. Might have to try this out.

  • @golnectr
    @golnectr 5 หลายเดือนก่อน +32

    Very underwhelmed by this "solution" to not using supports. Print two pieces? Uh, yeah.

    • @robob4465
      @robob4465 5 หลายเดือนก่อน +3

      I expected him to print one side upside down and then flip it

    • @snickerdoooodle
      @snickerdoooodle 3 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      I mean if you're going to be completely reductive to the point of ignoring the point of the video, sure.

    • @389OpiE
      @389OpiE 3 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

      ​@@snickerdoooodleNah he's right. The only part he "ignored" was imbeding it back into the print but that's no different from just gluing them or melting them together

    • @Hyderagean
      @Hyderagean 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

      And yet, I don't see you posting a better one. Guess that means you're even more underwhelming and are only good at critiquing from a false ideological perspective, which makes you basically worthless in reality. 😂

    • @JohnDoe-jp4em
      @JohnDoe-jp4em หลายเดือนก่อน

      Yeah the video title and thumbnail suggest some elaborate or novel solution, creating a difficult piece out of multiple easier pieces has been done since humans built things. I thought he did something like moving the z-axis down to print with a free hanging string.
      Inserting a the part during the print is newish I guess (but I've seen it before with things like nuts) but this isn't even really necessary here. Using glue would probably be easier and just as strong.

  • @Weird.Crocodile
    @Weird.Crocodile ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I tend to oversupport my prints but my fail rate is really low.
    Id rather have 10 minutes extra cleanup time other than a 5hr failed print

  • @TrinityFD
    @TrinityFD 7 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Sir, thank you very much! 👍

  • @AlanMelling
    @AlanMelling ปีที่แล้ว

    Pretty smart! This actually lived up to the hype

  • @fredshorrock377
    @fredshorrock377 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Great content you earned a subscriber

  • @xanderthemartinez
    @xanderthemartinez ปีที่แล้ว

    I used this method to place a cylinder weight inside of a closed egg so it can wobble. I got it to the right layer where the cylinder was the support and doesn't shake around inside.

  • @tlalok08
    @tlalok08 8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    I only watched it to say cap! But in the end i was impressed! Wow great idea!

  • @LolmenTV
    @LolmenTV ปีที่แล้ว

    What an awesome idea! Congrats bro! 👏👏👏

  • @foogee5403
    @foogee5403 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Almost clickbait but I completely allow it. Great short!

  • @JulianMakes
    @JulianMakes 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Very nice idea!

  • @soacker25
    @soacker25 ปีที่แล้ว

    That was quite a boss move👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼🍾

  • @blueberryhaze3603
    @blueberryhaze3603 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    That's awesome! Like a boss! U Made my Day

  • @Qwerty-ff1cr
    @Qwerty-ff1cr 13 วันที่ผ่านมา

    "WITHOUT SUPPORT" Sees 2 HUGE support columns used to support the insert of second part.

  • @2d20kobolds3
    @2d20kobolds3 ปีที่แล้ว

    This is very clever. Definitely one of neat hidden benifits of filament printers.

  • @DursunX
    @DursunX ปีที่แล้ว

    that's a trick!...
    a very useful trick 👌🏼 i would like to try

  • @themeek351
    @themeek351 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I used this method to insert filter paper into a coffee filter print!

  • @tinkerman1790
    @tinkerman1790 ปีที่แล้ว

    You are a genius!

  • @nahtanoj92
    @nahtanoj92 11 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Very clever idea 💡

  •  ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Im trying this today

  • @HergerTheJoyous
    @HergerTheJoyous ปีที่แล้ว

    That is a really good idea.

  • @davak72
    @davak72 ปีที่แล้ว

    Genius! I’ll put this to good use if I remember to haha

  • @Heeby-Jeebies
    @Heeby-Jeebies ปีที่แล้ว

    That's done great thinking right there! Well done!

  • @sticky_ricebowl
    @sticky_ricebowl 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    was actually thinking that you added a removable support part that is directly implemented when you designed it.

  • @arecibo1974
    @arecibo1974 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Very clever idea 👍🏼

  • @patrickweckermann9121
    @patrickweckermann9121 ปีที่แล้ว

    Brilliant Idea, similar vein to captive nuts (or other hardware), but next level.

  • @pushingplastic7445
    @pushingplastic7445 ปีที่แล้ว

    Very clever! Nice move!

  • @Rusapix
    @Rusapix 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Dumbfounded... way to find a solution without overthinking it! The answer really was in front of us this whole time.

  • @felipedidio4698
    @felipedidio4698 ปีที่แล้ว

    CEO? Heck no! CGO, chief gigachad officer.

  • @DaveEtchells
    @DaveEtchells 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Nice trick, having the printer bond the two parts together; another one for my mental bag of 3D printer tricks 👍😃

  • @luisca92
    @luisca92 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great idea!!! Definitely wanna try it!

  • @maheshpatel2005
    @maheshpatel2005 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Great idea...you can print it horizontally without two parts

  • @CordlessReview
    @CordlessReview ปีที่แล้ว

    Slick hack. Love it

  • @EpicHardware
    @EpicHardware 5 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    this wasn't a click bait, im surprised !

  • @SmellyCatCreations
    @SmellyCatCreations ปีที่แล้ว

    Super clever idea 💡

  • @SasquatchSmuggler
    @SasquatchSmuggler 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    You can always travel to the ISS where gravity is not an issue

  • @ethaneveraldo
    @ethaneveraldo ปีที่แล้ว

    Brilliant idea!

  • @NitrogenPurged
    @NitrogenPurged 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I was just thinking about this kind of thing yesterday.