SOMETHING IS NOT RIGHT
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ธ.ค. 2024
- Something is not right, the electrical struck again... Oh well more work for me
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Chris I don't think the NEC allows you to re-color the green wire. I believe any wire under 4 AWG cannot be re-colored except the white wire. The reason is if the wire runs through another junction box, someone will confuse the green wire, if it is not re-colored, with a ground!! In my 40+ years as an electrician, we NEVER re-colored the green wire!!! We pulled new wire if we did not have enough wires to do the job according to code!!
came here to say this.
Art. 250.119. “Conductors with insulation or individual covering that is green, green with one or more yellow stripes, or otherwise identified as permitted by this section shall not be used for ungrounded or grounded circuit conductors.”
you generally can’t re-identify white gray or or use them as an ungrounded conductor, either, but I don’t have the section number handy.
@rf159a That is because you are a professional and take pride in your work. The hack(s) who taped the green wire doesn't care that is against NEÇ code because it is dangerous. 💣
@@adamdnewman That is setting the bar pretty low for being professional and take pride in your work. Could have used any color and picked the one that will get the next person killed.
I am not sure you can tag a green ground wire as a phase color??
Technically it's a wire and it doesn't matter as long as both end go where they're supposed to BUT correct me if I'm wrong I believe that's not Code though.
Edit: Deleted my comment and moved it down here.
In Germany you can't recolor any wire, doesn't matter which color and if you are an electrician and see wrong colored wires you have to change them or you are the one going to prison if something happens. Doesn't mean if changing an outlet or an item you have to change the cables, but if you expand or renovate you have to change everything. That is something homeowners often do not like if they have very old houses. Actual code says ground is yellow/green-striped and the three phases phases are black, brown and gray. Switched phases can have the additional colors white, orange, red or violet. Old code (until 1965) said ground is red and one of the phases was blue - You see the problem if you want to expand an installation. Mixing old and new code would not be a good idea and because of that you always have to change everything to new code if you renovate or expand the system and it can be more expensive than you thought as an homeowner that only wanted a new few new outlets.....
Chris, as a Norwegian electrician, and automation tech trainee. I am so proud that you have seen the awesomeness of shneider equipment❤️
However. 2.15A*10% is better, when bearings and stuff fails and bearings go to hell. It trips and let's you know something is wrong. But holy moly that American stuff is scetchy sometimes! Gees.
@@Mr89netrom That "Change color with tape" is also really sketchy.
Here the ground wire is yellow/green and it is directly illegal to use it for anything but ground.
The problem with taping it is, you only change the color on the wire in the end.
If the cable breaks in the middle and it is only the green wire that is cut, someone might think they did not need to turn off power as it is only the ground wire.
As said.....illegal and you can be fined or lose your accreditation as an electrician if you do this.
@@JohnDoe-bd5sz it is so here too. I found a cable with ground as 3rd power lead, and instantly ripped it down.
When you said that you think the Electricians may have wired expecting a single phase motor it made me realize... is there a ground wire running to the exhaust fan? I think you're right, they were expecting single phase, so they ran Black/White/Green, and when they realized their error, instead of running an additional red wire, they repurposed the ground wire, and hoped the conduit itself would be enough of a unit ground (which used to be okay, but I'm pretty sure no longer is).
Still code compliant to use EMT as a ground, but it’s kinda like backstabbing outlets where it’s still allowed but has high probability of failure.
It's still legal, but in food service environments you shouldn't trust the metal conduits as a ground path
Thanks for the responses!
Yeah there is still a lot of conduits without dedicated conductor wires around me
@@inflconduit grounding is dependent on the quality of the connections. I just fixed a system that used the conduit as the ground. They came up out of the ground and used an aluminum junction box, to serve as the ground connection, as the supply was run in plastic conduit, and had a separate ground. Electrolisys caused the copper to aluminum bond connection to go bad, and all of the receptacles past that lost their ground.
We have a corner-grounded delta service in my building (480V L-L)... I won't let anyone work on that service without me present, as the setup is so rare, someone's gonna get killed because they've never seen it before...I always tell our contractors "you don't screw around with 480, you don't screw around with CGD, and you REALLY don't screw around with 480 CGD"... As for the wire pull, I would have put my foot up someone's ass for that... (be careful working after someone who does shit like that... you're now the last one who touched it, and you know as well as I do how that can bite your ass...)
Amazing your clean up work looks so much better than the so called pro electricians work...job well done.
White black and green for three-phase what could go wrong😢
Imagine what it’s like with ‘harmonised’ wiring in the EU three phase brown, brown and brown!
@@alasdairmunro1953wrong..... Its Black grey brown.... Or Black with numbers on the leads.
Trust me Our electric Systems are way better then this silly USA things
Shocking story.
I didn't know copper wire sees in color? 😊
Just carry 16/3 SO cord ?? Works for all jobs big and small🔥
Overload heaters are not fuses ,they are just heaters that heats something that trips the overload, either a bimetallic or a solder based trip.
FYI - modern resetable fuses work the same way. It's just a definition and the characteristic when it reacts to call something a fuse or overload protector... and you can't set a fuse to a different current.
@@seanthiar I will argue. There are motor protectors that are just bimetals, there are ones that are bimetals and the trip mechanism too, and there are ones that are basically adjustable breakers, with magnetic tripping, bimetallic tripping and arc quenchers. Knowing which type you have is absolutely a must. The plant I work at has equipment from 1960 to 2020 and I think I have seen about 40-50 different kinds in all sorts of configurations that are possible. There are ones that signal a fault, there are ones that are by all means and definitions fuses. Also if you look at main switches on distribution boards, some have a trip current setting even though they are actual circuit breakers. For example Hager sells a main switch that has an adjustable trip current from 63 to 160A with a separate adjustment for the characteristics (the instant trip multiplier)
I was going to post the same thing too.
The heater wouldn't normally melt, but since the trip was bypassed, the heater endured the overload past the point at which it would normally have tripped the circuit off.
Your rants are always really interesting. I like them.
keep in mind that the overload label on the Schneider brand specifically says it will trip at 125% of the set rating on the overload. so you should set the overload to the fla of the motor.
The packaging indicates to set for FLA on these, so you're correct according to what I've been able to find from the manufacturer for these they only have the packaging as an installation guide and it doesn't have words, only a pictrgram indicating the dial is FLA. He has SF of 1.00 so I think in this case he may even have to multiply by 0.9.
Your're right, because in his case he would end up with 125% of 115% of fla. And I think that the fla isn't even the shown value in the picture, above you can see another current values.
[I'm not a 'true' electrician]
I think we're in agreement:
It would depend specifically if the motor manufacturer means to set it at 'x' percent above 'TRIP' setting, or if they mean the 'HOLD' setting, which is what the OL markings are.
If they are anticipating that all overload settings usually are marked in the 'hold' setting, then it is possible they mean to set it x% above the actual 'dial' setting, and not to 'add' any trip factor calculation.
Trips ratings are all usually time related, and not specific to any single amperage.
There is no doubt additional trip ratings for 200%, 1000%, etc.
Mr K L
Just heard a “know what I mean Vern” reference…love it. Ernest P. Worrell refrigeration services 🤦♂️ 😂 great movies
I remember a piece of 3ph equipment in the UK. Not HVAC but a pasta boiler. Customer complaint - Power light goes off when you turn it on - not tripping breaker, but also not heating. 3Ph 415V phase to phase, 240 to neutral. Measured it out. 63V on the phase that powered the indicator light to neutral, dropping to zero under load. No other power present. Took MULTIPLE (6) requests for an electrician to fix. Electrician would attend, see the green light and say 'Unit has power, not out problem' then we would be called back - rinse and repeat - Eventually I arranged to be there when the electrician attended. Usual BS 'Green light - has power' So I hooked my meter up, demonstrated the issue and then walked out while the regional manager of the chain chewed out the electrician who's company ended up covering ALL our bills after the initial visit until it was back up again. Hopefully that electrician learned to TEST and not just guess.
Sadly some people are blissful in their ignorance and or laziness
Your videos have me glued in my seat, enthralled by every word you speak.
I watch a few youtubers that are electricians in various places around the world. Don't know how many times I have watched them do a line check for voltage and then tested the equipment before and after. Every once and while it ends up with either an equipement error or failure that is caught through routine safety checks. It is incredibly rare but it saves lives. The guys/gals that do that sort of work can have strict safety and do quality work. Amazes me how many of them get called in to fix a poorly done job.
3:20 Power on a green wire is how you die or get some one killed. Power on a white wire is not much better. We are going to need a 10 ft long red heat shrink tubing. All 3 should have been black or do not do the job. It is like showing up to a job and only having coat hangers in your truck and saying you can make it work :-)
15 minutes into the video, working on the old three phase delta wiring. If you find 230 or 240 volt power on a three phase system it is very likely a delta wring. We had two systems of Delta wiring at City Of Long Beach, where I worked 15 years on some buildings built in 1949 - 1960 with delta three phase systems.
The more common is three phase "High Leg" where you have 120 volts to ground on two legs and a "Wild" or "High" leg, that is about 190 volts to ground, but can not be used as a single pole to ground. It messed up a 120/240 volt Hoshizaki ice machine with a 120 volt water pump in it, and a 4 wire power plug, using the neutral.
Anyway some of our buildings have a 240 volt, where two lines are 240 volts to ground, and the third phase is grounded! Very surprising to many who have not seen it before. I had this system in about 5 of the library buildings, and the high leg system at about 1/2 of the park buildings. Only the library built after 1970 had the normal 208 / 120 volt three phase Wye system. Most of the buildings I took care of where built between 1947 and 1965, with very few between 1965 and 74. Then they had "Prop 13" and that reduced funding to the city, and not much was built new after that.
So the building with the three phase delta wiring, they also have a second power meter, with 120/240 volt service to that second power meter.
The City rented a very old building that was owned by Southern California Edison Company, and they had a 200 amp power panel in there, the light circuits used edison base screw in fuses! Really old stuff, from the 1930's! You are bringing back some really old memories.
NEC 250.119 prohibits any green, green/yellow striped, or bare wire from being used as a hot, save for a couple of exceptions that have to do with green SPT-2 cordage and the use of green hot conductors to feed the greens on traffic signal heads. So you cannot re-identify the green wire as a hot wire. The so called electrician should come back out and do the job properly. Since you now know about it it and you service the equipment, is your responsibility to make sure this is fixed properly. If you find out who did this you should have their license pulled as they are no electrician.
funfact: in germany we call the Din rails "hutschiene" wich ruffly translates to hatrail as from the side it kind of looks like a hat. and like 99% of electrical equipment here is compatible for this type of rail wich makes building big switching stuff a lot easier
Very likely failed overload heaters.
They are replaceable but Schneider does make it easy.
Very solid video. Keep it up.
Great Video. Thank you for sharing.
Love when you go off the trail like that, because it shows how experience teaches what isn't usually covered in HVAC school.
Cant wait to see the video you talked about. Hope you and your family are doing well.
An electrician did that ?? Jesus if that was England they would go to prison
Important to note that the screw that the budgie had crimping the black wire down to the back of the upper contact on the A thermal element is NOT a primary conductor in that the contact surface between the element and the housing was and putting that wire in under that screw head was a violation. If you (readers) ever think that isn't really important you should look up Federal Pacific Electric. The electrical conduction contact in that illegal arrangement could have been less than 3 square millimeters along the thread edge of the screw inside the hole. *Screws are NEVER a conductor.*
Great info, Chris. Thank you. Give credit where credit is due.
It's interesting to see, how you switch more and more from Relays & Switches with almost no touching protection to manufacturer with much higher safety standards wich are almost common here in Germany/Europe. Even from wire nuts to Wago's. It makes me crazy to see all the time in your videos how low the electical standards in the US is/were. There are so many and easy accessable parts were you can get in touch with power. Sure, if you're looking for a failure in a switch you will see a burned contact easilier on an old contactor than in the newer ones, but safety should be at first place.
Good job.
The standards are actually pretty strict. The problem is installers and service people who muck it up after the fact.
Great works sir
Nice job cleaning it up. On some of those IEC motor starters, especially with solid state overloads, you actually set the overloads to the motors FLA (not the 115 or 125% of FLA the code states).
The heater probably blew up when the wire blew up. Those motor starters are not designed for short circuit events.
It's also possible that it was severely weakened and then died/broke off the rest of the way.
Also, you did the right thing rather than trying to repair that starter. Spec for those always says to "replace the entire overload if burnout occurs".
Those old thermal overloads work very interestingly. Particularly that style.
The heater itself is mated to a metallic alloy with a low melting point. During design, they pair the melting point and the heater power to correspond with the actual heating of the windings of the motor, so that the metallic alloy melts before the windings burn up. They will include a spec sheet recommending which heater to use for what motor.
This allows a mechanical action normally inhibited by the solid alloy to deploy that opens the trip contacts, and ideally dumps the contactor.
It also has the benefit of requiring the operator to wait for the overloads to cool off and the alloy to solidify before it can reset - also allowing the motor itself to cool off.
VERY ingenious and clever use of technology.
Their main drawbacks are that A) they can't handle short circuit events and will blow up if subjected to one, and B) they're sensitive to ambient, put one in a hot room and they'll trip prematurely. The heater sizing chart provides advice on how to deal with this, but it's still suboptimal.
One benefit of being colorblind in this industry is that I can not just trust color and have to understand the systems in order to diagnose problems. It forces me to not be lazy.
I have red/green/brown issues but the insulation tints in Australia are sufficiently different to not have caused me any problems.
Thank you for doing that starter upgrade correctly! Great Schneider equipment, DIN rails, wagos, all tied up with zip ties, wires nicely wrapped to match colors. First time I was happy watching an american electrical installation! Great job, keep it up! :)
Good job Chris 👍🏾
High-leg delta is another one of those goofy less common nowadays setups that can trip you up if you aren't expecting it. The first time I came across a panel with both single-phase and three-phase loads in it and measured L-L and L-N, I had a hell of a head scratcher moment seeing 208V from B-phase to ground/neutral until i realized what was going on. Always ALWAYS check and double-check your system and don't make assumptions! I can only imagine there has been some "exciting" (and potentially expensive) moments for individuals livening up what they believed was just a simple job of adding a 120V branch circuit to a more standard 120/208V Wye system....
We just installed a couple of ventless fryers that were in a building with a Delta high leg. We went over it multiple times with the manufacturer to make sure that this would be acceptable to run the equipment. In the end it was, I just wish somebody had told me all of this before I went out to the site and started scratching my head. I'm not an electrician, I'm an appliance repair technician. There's a difference lol
There was a time when I was on the road with the carnival and ran into a high leg delta where we were pluging our bunk house in, it was my first time seeing one of them L1 - L2 250v, L2 - L3 250v, L1 - L3 240v, L1 - N 120v, L2 - N 240v, L3 - N 120v... my boss at the time told me not to hook anything to L2 and I'm glad that I didn't, I have since learned alot more about the different types of power systems put there and that one does scare me a little bit
👍
Green 💚 is A hot 🔥 wire.. lol.. well in the automotive industry 😅😅😅.. Wow.. the red tape was great 👍 👌 😅.. Thanks for another great video 📹 HVAC man
Was that electrical company's name 3 Stooges Electrical Service ? Cause we do it with more sparks Thx
That some shocking work from the electrician 😂
Nice job. In the future you should set current to 2.54A. No need to add 10% according to motor starter manual.
Really nice fix on the wire color coding. It is a shame that some people leave sloppy work. You made that motor starter install look fantastic. Job well done, as usual for your channel!
Looks so nice now, after you rewire it.
It’s still not right the electrician still has to come out and fix their horrible work but it’s functional for now
@@HVACRVIDEOS I agree that the green wire is just a big no no, but if it is a emergency situation we all use the wrong wire colour. (I guess I would have used the black wire for all 3 and number them if I don't have the right colour)
Note that here in Europe I would have just used a 3 phase cable and automatically have the right color code.
It’s against NEC code to re-identify a ground wire
well it was not a ground wire, it was a wire that just happened to be green.
The general interpretation of 250.119 is that "if it's green from the factory, it can only be a grounding conductor". The language doesn't specifically say (as far as I know) that you aren't allowed to tape up a green and use it as a hot leg.
Is it a gray area? Is it illegal? I suppose it depends on your point of view. As long as it's contained inside a UL-listed box and nothing ever goes wrong that would prompt an inspection by a code officer or insurance adjuster, then you "can" do it. Best practice is to leave greens as greens.
@@Coffreek i’m not about to look up and site the code number but I know for sure if it’s green it’s gotta stay green. Furthermore, you’re not allowed to reidentify conductors smaller than 6 gauge, with the exception of 14 and 12 gauge conductors enclosed in a single sheath cable, usually for lighting 3-ways, etc.
@@rmhanseniii, I realize that this horse may be.... very unwell, at least. I had to know, so I found it.
FWIW, last sentence of 250.119(A): Conductors with insulation or individual covering that is green, green with one or more yellow stripes, or otherwise identified
as permitted by this section shall not be used for ungrounded or grounded circuit conductors.
Which is pretty clear, and I think this is the part an inspector would cite if you taped up a green wire and tried to say "it's a conductor!". And from a common sense perspective, he'd be right.
Still though, I would like to see language in there that says "and you can't use tape to make a green wire into something else, either!"
@@rmhanseniiidoes this go for black too or just colored wire
12:39 “A breaker is meant to protect your wiring …”
Although that isn’t a false statement, a breaker is also intended to de-energize faulty equipment that could pose a fire hazard if it were to remain powered up.
Thanks for the interesting videos you publish. As a software engineer most of your subjects are way out of my work field.Having said that, we are producing power quality analyzers, so three phase systems are familiar.
Please do not stop your rants, the are insightful and also fun.
Greetings from the Netherlands.
That thumbnail is so clean looking it looked like a simulation. Nice work!
In older parts of towns around S.E. Wisconsin we have lots of grounded B. Electricians come from other states come here for training on live systems.
I work on Motor control all the time and use up to Size 5 starters. I have found a lot of electricians don't understand motor control nor how to wire a Mag Starter properly with OL protection, which is what you've encountered. I have a friend who works residential and commercial and always call me every time he comes across a starter because he just doesn't get it.. Seems like whatever electrician ran the wire for you was lazy to do it properly and up to code. That should not be unacceptable!
Hahahahahaha....damn sparky was smoking that good stuff that day.
Always professional
I think the Schneider overload says it will trip at 125%of what you set the dial at. So you now have it set to 2.9 times 125%. Not having the control wired through your 95 and 96 contacts on overload will burn motors up fast as well. Not sure if you checked the others.
Nice neat job sir! Pride in work is nice to see.
It is never acceptable to use a green wire for anything other than ground. Taping the ends is not sufficient.
Exactly 💯
“Electrician”. I’m an electrician and I cannot forgive this.😂
Nice. Haven’t seen the channel cover motor starters in such detail before. At least not in a while. GJ always bringing in new content.
Pretty good video, except for one thing. Those thermal elements (heaters) are not fusible links that melt. If they were, they would need to be replaced when they trip, as opposed to being reset. They heat up on overload and the temperature causes the control circuit to trip out. After things cool down, the reset button resets the control switch.
I remember you complaining about the comments when you used a circuit tracer. This is going to be an interesting comment section.
I didn't know about corner grounded delta that's wild
Pause at @5:39 and zoom to the top L2 red
That old starter looks old school as can bejudging by the old looking General Electric logo.
Looking at the motor starter as you rolled up on it, hard to tell but it appears the red/blue legs are swapped top and bottom which would have it phased incorrectly.
Always looks nicer then he found it i love it
Great videos.
While setting the overload to the rating of the motor is ok, it is not best practice.
Most electric motors are multi use and are suited to a wide range of applications.
The overlaid should be set to the design rating for the appliance. As for example in your video, It was drawing 2.15
amps adding a percentage to correction value to that figure will provide better protection for the motor.
I have always set overloads to either the maximum load of the motor or if possible to a slightly higher rating then the running current. Knowing the motor will trip the overload and disconnect power after single phasing or having bearing failure for example leading to burning out the windings.
Regards
Firth
Downunder
That bimetallic overload had no built in fuse so the circuit it's fed from needs to have a fuse rated at max whatever it says on the overload label. This is probably why your old one melted, when the wire inside the conduit shorted, the current was too high and melted the overload instead of the upstream fuse/CB which is probably too big for this overload.
I found Quality HvACR first. You rock dude. Coming from a Control Foreman who kind off misses service. Psyche lol
Nice work, maybe one of this days you can do a video about motor starters wiring , thanks.
Nice video. Have you ever used a phase loss monitor relay ? I know the overload is suppose to stop over current but a lot of mills in my area use this relay when they lose a phase.
8:43 ( you see the fuse) The fuse blew, but did not save the motor. Not wired correctly. WTF? Great Video!
The probable reason for that one phase to have been blown, is a loose wire on that phase. A wire that is barely making contact, increases your resistance, which increases your amperage that the motor will pull on that phase , producing an overcurrent situation on just one phase.
Sounds like you really don’t want to lose that technician
Perfect example of people doing trades that shouldn’t be doing trades
We have just been taking the electricians work lately. They do shot work anyways. We do it better ourselves.
YEAH, finally a video about exhaus-fans again 👌
Awesome done, bravo 🙌🙌🙌👍👌🙏😊🍀
It's been a long time wanting to learn HVAC. How and where do I get started?? ??. God 🙏 Bless y'all.
Chris, is it possible the EMF affects the bearing in a motor? cheers
It's interesting to me that they have one motor starter in each box. Seems like you could easily have two of the old ones and three or four of the new ones in each box and simplify the whole setup.
It a security thing. Sometimes the manager of an area get a key for the box to be able to reset the the equipment for his area. The kitchen crew would be really pissed if someone plays with their AC or exhaust when they are cooking just because the bar manager isn't able to read the label which one is kitchen and which one is bar.
YES DIN RAIL SUPERIORITY
Did you spot the lose red power wire on that moter controle top left 😂
Chris, I would have pulled the wire myself! Avoiding much of this as well as the added expense to the customer.
If an electrician did that here, they'd be sacked. In *some* instances it is ok to sleeve different coloured wires to indicate a different colour but a green wire should NEVER be sleeved to any other colour or used for any purpose other than grounding. If the electrician didn't have the correct cable for the job they should have gone and got some.
Those heaters don't work like a fuse and burn out. Yours must have been exposed to a direct short. They work by heating up a ratchet device that is normally held by solder. When an overload occurs, the heaters melt the solder, allowing the overload switch to trip. Once the solder cools, the overload can be reset. The new ones you installed are electronic and sense the current electronically.
Large trade companies that care more about quantity of jobs rather than quality of service tend to have more than a few hacks on their payroll. Hacks may bring stacks, but they also cause a ton of headaches for their customers, as well as for the unfortunate technicians who have to deal with their messes.
Due to a movie I saw a long, long time ago, I like to say, "Assumption is the mother of all f-ups."
Sparky gets a big F. Even if they did make the mistake of assuming it was a single phase motor never use green as a hot even as a temporary. Could have just run another black and taped it. Weekend or not how do you not have extra xlink on the truck for a simple run. I just don’t get it.
* two more black conductors. Three total for the three phases.
Just needs to add one more black, then they’d have B,B,W and G for ground! Tape accordingly with real blue and red electrical tape like some 3M #37 not the dollar store junk or the paper sticker off your 7/11 hoagie wrapper good grief! That was just an embarrassing mess and I’m confident Chris would have more than capable of doing the whole job wire pull included. The motor controller install was perfection. Electrician had a low GAS factor.
Did that old motor controller have a transformer built into it???
Motor starters can be confusing to newbies. VFDs are typical on newer hoods.
OPEN DELTAS A COOL OLD-SCHOOL CONCEPT. YOU CAN LITERALLY BRING IN THE 3RD PHASE AND INCREASE THE SERVICE SIZE BY LIKE 60%
Corner grounded delta system was really odd one out. One of the phases are grounded & that's ridiculous
Wow , on call should have three phase standard colors . It’s a bad labor shortage
I work in the industrial side of Schneider and the new dark mode coloring is making it's way over there as well. It's going to be weird watching the zebra stripes in the coming years.
Interesting
What would be wrong with testing and replacing the heater if the contactor is still good? I look at it like this: I can save the customer alot of money. Heater only costs $20 vs $350-700 for a new contactor? So in the end I can get the job done for cheaper and quicker. Charge the same labor and make more money in less time? I know your not makeing as much on the part but my customers appreciate me trying to save them money!
Wow, that's a hack electrician.
Hi! The thermal protection is made to trip if there is not the same current in all legs. If you run out of two pole starter, you may use a 3 phase on a single phase motor by wiring T2 out to T3 in and T3 to the motor.
You're so used to see exposed (hot or live don't know the appropriate words in US english ) big bare metal everywhere in electric box, that's you couldn't resist to add some "spice" to this poor "European style" motor starter ! By ripping off the plastic to run the control cable under the plastic cover, you give access to the live screw.
Even if it look better this way, it was not made to be this way. It's still far better than the old one (and almost all other equipment I could take a glimpse on your channel) but you increase the risk of electric shock.
Did you leave the Overload in manual or automatic? Manual I hope
i had to replace a motor started on monday... compressor still did not come on and i cant figure out wtf is tripping it. wiring diagram doesnt help, shows one wire in one wire out on overloads.... they have 4 wires each
I bet that smart hood system has a bad VFD.. 🤔
Using Green or Green/Yellow for anything other than Earth is a hanging offense in Australia.
So with the slightly lower voltage (203 vs 208) do you have to adjust the allowable amperage higher or is the difference small enough to not matter?
6:55 sorry im a little confused the. 2.54 amps multiplied by 115%? How did you get the 115%?
It’s the service factor conversion that gave me that. Google “overcurrent protection using sfa”
I'm suprised you ran the resilient cushion frame on shaft vertical position
Every motor manufacturer I've ran across, always spec resilient for shaft horizontal position only
Rigid base is all i will use
I agree with you, that electrical work was a hack job. I've never been professionally trained, and I can confidently say I'd do a much better job.
As always, an exemplary "clean up" of someone else's mess!
Did I catch a “know what I mean vern?” in there? Ernest?
Yep
I feel confident that in Western Australia work like that would lose the electrician their license.