Finishing the tool post spindle and testing. Making the base, fitting the tool holder bar and 20mm bearings. Making the outer spindle and fitting 12mm needle bearings and oil seals.
Excellent drill chuck Tool post spindle. I am just starting out in machining because I have grown to despise all these crazies That are out there. I can do welding and mostly people leave me alone. If I come across an old mortar with obsolete parts then I am able to make my own better parts!
That's a very interesting tool post drill. It will work extremely good on indexing. And the rigidity of it is superb. That is top class engineering. Thanks for the well done video.
Very nice build! I'm making one out of a block of steel rectangle bar and am going to use bronze bushings. Then I will be able to drill my indexing plate, then I will be able to index the teeth on the spline gear I'm going to make to repair my camera tripod. Just because we can if we want to!
Nice solution, for myself I think I'd have gone with bronze bushings in solid blocks instead of linear and needle bearings and just a solid shaft, seems cheaper and simpler.
It was nice watching the videos of this build. I would counterbore for the heads of the second bearing block screws as well, just for esthetical reasons. I've read a book about spindles (Workshop Practice Series 27), as well as some articles, and am wondering about this design. I didn't see any thrust bearing employed. The needle bearings seem to be a very loose fit (15:10 the bearing just slides in), nothing is holding their outer races from spinning in the housing or sliding along its axis, besides some pressure provided by the seals. 18:33 there's no preload at all on the bearings. AFAIK some amount of preload is necessary for reducing play, increasing stiffness and bearing lifespan. The spindles in the WPS 27 book use a threaded nut to firmly retaing the outer race of the front bearing, and another nut at the rear of the shaft to adjust the preload. Based on these observations, the design of the spindle in this video is questionable in terms of its accuracy and durability. I mean, if you believe the bearing manufacturers on how the bearings should be used. With the drill chuck, you can only drill and tap with this spindle, not use it for milling. The linear bearings also prevent its use as a milling spindle. The linear bearings are an interesting and somewhat uncommon idea. On one hand, indeed, this allows the spindle to self-feed when tapping a hole. On the other hand, as is in the video, it doesn't allow to precisely control the drilling depth. 20:58 talks about drilling about holes on a PCD. Say you want to drill multiple such blind holes, how would you achieve this with the spindle, that doesn't feature a depth stop? A collar could be added to the rear part of the outer spindle, that would stop against the rear bearing block. Still, it would be tricky to adjust the drilling depth precisely. I would call this video as a "Tool post freehand drilling/tapping spindle", or something like this. A general use tool post spindle, in my opinion, should feature a collet chuck, allowing for both drilling and milling, and should be designed to have very little play. Then it can be used for milling, drilling, grinding, polishing etc (not for tapping, though). Ideally it should be powered by a dedicated high-speed motor, as a cordless drill's maximum speed is too low for many tools (e.g. small grinding points). A great item to base a spindle design on is a purchased straight-shank ER collet chuck, e.g. for up to 7mm shank tools one could use a C10-ER11M-150L (or C12-, or -100L, as required). Hopefully you take it as a piece of constructive criticism. I do enjoy your videos :)
@@enotsengineering Looking forward to a video of the new build, then :) One advantage of using a purchased ER collet chuck as the shaft is that the shaft is hardened and ground and should provide long service life (if the spindle is properly designed).
Do you think a small thrust washer between the collar and sleeve might lessen wear? Another possibility would be to make the collar out of bronze. I realize there's negligible pressure but there is some rubbing of the parts together and the collar spinning against the end of the tube will likely cause some galling if you intend to use it a lot. All in all, nice design and great video.
Hi Don Yes I was thinking about fitting 2 washers with a thrust bearing in-between, but I will se how much it gets used first. Thanks for watching Alan
Alan, The simplest, easiest and cheapest solution would be to machine a brass wear washer. That should provide adequate protection regardless of the amount of usage.
Hi from Australia, great youtube. I'm going to make one but I am confused about 1 thing. I understand whe the two rods etc but I dont understand why the outside one doesnt turn and what stops it from turning with the inside one. Hope you can understand and can help me. Thanks for the info. Regards Merv
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Excellent drill chuck Tool post spindle. I am just starting out in machining because I have grown to despise all these crazies That are out there. I can do welding and mostly people leave me alone. If I come across an old mortar with obsolete parts then I am able to make my own better parts!
Excellent design and execution, bravo!
Very sturdy best design I've seen,thanks for sharing, Grahame from Coventry.
That's a very interesting tool post drill. It will work extremely good on indexing. And the rigidity of it is superb. That is top class engineering. Thanks for the well done video.
Thanks for watching don't forget to subscribe
very nice design. just discovered you here in calif usa. many thanks
Neat! VERY neat. Thanks for sharing. From South Africa
Very good work, congratulations!
Well done I watched it all Thanks for sharing all the best From John In Texas
Thanks John
Such is life (with out a mill).
Clever solution for a real problem.
I just discover your site. Very good videos and ideas. Greetings from France Laurent
Thanks for watching don't forget to subscribe
Very nice build! I'm making one out of a block of steel rectangle bar and am going to use bronze bushings. Then I will be able to drill my indexing plate, then I will be able to index the teeth on the spline gear I'm going to make to repair my camera tripod. Just because we can if we want to!
Great tool. Thanks for sharing.
Very handy. Thank you!
Great little thing.
Nice solution, for myself I think I'd have gone with bronze bushings in solid blocks instead of linear and needle bearings and just a solid shaft, seems cheaper and simpler.
Interesting lathe tool holder
this is excellent.. just add an index chart to my spindle rear, gotta make one
I need to make one of these!
It was nice watching the videos of this build. I would counterbore for the heads of the second bearing block screws as well, just for esthetical reasons.
I've read a book about spindles (Workshop Practice Series 27), as well as some articles, and am wondering about this design. I didn't see any thrust bearing employed. The needle bearings seem to be a very loose fit (15:10 the bearing just slides in), nothing is holding their outer races from spinning in the housing or sliding along its axis, besides some pressure provided by the seals. 18:33 there's no preload at all on the bearings. AFAIK some amount of preload is necessary for reducing play, increasing stiffness and bearing lifespan. The spindles in the WPS 27 book use a threaded nut to firmly retaing the outer race of the front bearing, and another nut at the rear of the shaft to adjust the preload. Based on these observations, the design of the spindle in this video is questionable in terms of its accuracy and durability. I mean, if you believe the bearing manufacturers on how the bearings should be used.
With the drill chuck, you can only drill and tap with this spindle, not use it for milling. The linear bearings also prevent its use as a milling spindle. The linear bearings are an interesting and somewhat uncommon idea. On one hand, indeed, this allows the spindle to self-feed when tapping a hole. On the other hand, as is in the video, it doesn't allow to precisely control the drilling depth. 20:58 talks about drilling about holes on a PCD. Say you want to drill multiple such blind holes, how would you achieve this with the spindle, that doesn't feature a depth stop? A collar could be added to the rear part of the outer spindle, that would stop against the rear bearing block. Still, it would be tricky to adjust the drilling depth precisely.
I would call this video as a "Tool post freehand drilling/tapping spindle", or something like this. A general use tool post spindle, in my opinion, should feature a collet chuck, allowing for both drilling and milling, and should be designed to have very little play. Then it can be used for milling, drilling, grinding, polishing etc (not for tapping, though). Ideally it should be powered by a dedicated high-speed motor, as a cordless drill's maximum speed is too low for many tools (e.g. small grinding points). A great item to base a spindle design on is a purchased straight-shank ER collet chuck, e.g. for up to 7mm shank tools one could use a C10-ER11M-150L (or C12-, or -100L, as required). Hopefully you take it as a piece of constructive criticism. I do enjoy your videos :)
Hi I have to remake mine the bearings have worn grooves into the steel bar.
@@enotsengineering Looking forward to a video of the new build, then :) One advantage of using a purchased ER collet chuck as the shaft is that the shaft is hardened and ground and should provide long service life (if the spindle is properly designed).
very very good but too much work for the kind of work that will do congrats and thanks for sharing your knowledge
Very nice
Nice! thanks!
Exccellent tool with many uses.
EXCELLENT
Do you think a small thrust washer between the collar and sleeve might lessen wear? Another possibility would be to make the collar out of bronze. I realize there's negligible pressure but there is some rubbing of the parts together and the collar spinning against the end of the tube will likely cause some galling if you intend to use it a lot. All in all, nice design and great video.
Hi Don Yes I was thinking about fitting 2 washers with a thrust bearing in-between, but I will se how much it gets used first.
Thanks for watching
Alan
Alan, The simplest, easiest and cheapest solution would be to machine a brass wear washer. That should provide adequate protection regardless of the amount of usage.
Hi from Australia, great youtube. I'm going to make one but I am confused about 1 thing. I understand whe the two rods etc but I dont understand why the outside one doesnt turn and what stops it from turning with the inside one. Hope you can understand and can help me. Thanks for the info.
Regards Merv
Hi the outer should not turn as the linear bearings will prevent it rotating if the outer rotated it could damage the linear bearings
Should have turned the seals around to keep grit out, and not oil in.
Hi. Just stumbled across your very useful channel. Subscrbed. BobUK