The most common cause of logic board failure on these brewers is the two larger electrolytic power supply capacitors. In the video, I can see the tops of both capacitors are bulged. Likely why the solenoids are buzzing. I replace both of these using higher capacitance, high-quality Panasonic low-ESR parts, rated for 10000 hours @ 105ºC. 1500µF / 35V for the larger one (yes it fits), and 1200µF / 25V for the smaller one. The most common electro-mechanical failure point on all K-Cup brewers that use them, are low-quality vent solenoids. The nylon used in these solenoids turns brown over time, and eventually decomposes from the inside out. I replace these with higher-quality European CEME-branded solenoids, which are actually designed for coffee brewers. I also open up the water pump, clean the parts, and add a dab of waterproof silicone grease to the cup on the back side of the impeller. This cures the pump growl, at least for a while.
I tried replacing the two capacitors without luck. Both were confirmed as blown, the replacements were tested prior to being soldered. I think the short goes deeper than the two caps.
@@jkucukov The larger capacitor is across the diode bridge that's next to it. If it actually shorted, over time it could have taken out one or more of the diodes. The smaller capacitor is across the output of the 18V regulator next to it, marked U3. (The one next to that, marked UX1, is 3.3V.)
Finally got this Fort Keurig opened up, and I see the buldged caps, but also the pressure sensor on the board seems to have leaked and shorted across the tracings. No Bueno
I figured out how to fix the board. It's the two largest blue capacitors that are bulging on the top. $2 in parts from digikey. 25v and 35v 1000uf caps
I watched a video on replacing those two capacitors (25v & 35v). I replaced them last year but got no response from the board, i think the fault in my board is way worse, since then i got a whole working board from another Machine.
It was a pain to remove the top cover despite the back being removed, the back cover has clips that hold it together, I remember I had to heat up the plastic to be able to pry it apart without damaging covers. It was not an easy job.
All of the screws of the back and bottom panels need to be removed except the tiny ones that hold a IC chip to the metal...then all of the screws need to be removed from the lower inside base plate. Then take the two screws off the brew handle and remove the handle...(i pulled off the style covers of the brew head too) at that point the front cover needs to be pulled from the bottom so it can be raised about 1/4" and release locking tabs that hold the front edge of the top [plate which is part of the back panel. Once the back panel is freed the side panels can be worked free, being careful of front and back edge clips.
Were you able to fix it? Mine developed similar issues as yours. Only difference is, my LCD menu has a mind of its own. My guess is the board needs to be replaced. What did you figure out?
As an owner of 4 of these K155 i am done with Keurig. I am tired if paying 300 for a machine that only works 1.5 years and samr problem slow dripping coffee. We only drink 2 cups a day and after more than a year its same thing happens slow drips and you cant fix it. I say stay away maybe buy an espresso like Breville which makes good products vs Keurig. Sorry but i wont buy you cups or your faulty products.
Agreed, these make one great project if you got the time. The unit in the video i got free from work, it was rearly used for a year before it decided to break. Got a replacement board from Ebay for $25 and still havent found time to install it.
dude i hear you as a owner of 3 Keurig's all three went out on me when the first two went out I spent 300 bucks and got one of these business ones for better quality and it worked for 3 years but once a power surge happened completely destroyed it and now all it does is blink and make ticking noises witch I'm pretty sure are relays. but whatever im gonna invest in a different brand.
@@izaacschwieterman132 exactly now i goy their newer model commercial but screen lcd now is glitcy. I dont know why Keurig is just low quality seriously
The most common cause of logic board failure on these brewers is the two larger electrolytic power supply capacitors.
In the video, I can see the tops of both capacitors are bulged. Likely why the solenoids are buzzing.
I replace both of these using higher capacitance, high-quality Panasonic low-ESR parts, rated for 10000 hours @ 105ºC.
1500µF / 35V for the larger one (yes it fits), and 1200µF / 25V for the smaller one.
The most common electro-mechanical failure point on all K-Cup brewers that use them, are low-quality vent solenoids.
The nylon used in these solenoids turns brown over time, and eventually decomposes from the inside out.
I replace these with higher-quality European CEME-branded solenoids, which are actually designed for coffee brewers.
I also open up the water pump, clean the parts, and add a dab of waterproof silicone grease to the cup on the back side of the impeller.
This cures the pump growl, at least for a while.
I tried replacing the two capacitors without luck. Both were confirmed as blown, the replacements were tested prior to being soldered. I think the short goes deeper than the two caps.
@@jkucukov The larger capacitor is across the diode bridge that's next to it. If it actually shorted, over time it could have taken out one or more of the diodes.
The smaller capacitor is across the output of the 18V regulator next to it, marked U3. (The one next to that, marked UX1, is 3.3V.)
Just wanted to say, you were right about the 1000uf caps in the mainboard. Swapping them out fixed boot loop issue.
Thanks for posting!
@@EthanReishLFCRP Thanks for the feedback.
Finally got this Fort Keurig opened up, and I see the buldged caps, but also the pressure sensor on the board seems to have leaked and shorted across the tracings. No Bueno
I figured out how to fix the board. It's the two largest blue capacitors that are bulging on the top. $2 in parts from digikey. 25v and 35v 1000uf caps
I watched a video on replacing those two capacitors (25v & 35v). I replaced them last year but got no response from the board, i think the fault in my board is way worse, since then i got a whole working board from another Machine.
@@jkucukov Brandon , what were the symptoms of your problem.. mine just clicks when plugged in.
How did you take the back / top cover off the machine? I took all the back screws off but the top is not moving to remove.
It was a pain to remove the top cover despite the back being removed, the back cover has clips that hold it together, I remember I had to heat up the plastic to be able to pry it apart without damaging covers. It was not an easy job.
I posted a new video on the Keurig K150 teardown.
All of the screws of the back and bottom panels need to be removed except the tiny ones that hold a IC chip to the metal...then all of the screws need to be removed from the lower inside base plate. Then take the two screws off the brew handle and remove the handle...(i pulled off the style covers of the brew head too) at that point the front cover needs to be pulled from the bottom so it can be raised about 1/4" and release locking tabs that hold the front edge of the top [plate which is part of the back panel. Once the back panel is freed the side panels can be worked free, being careful of front and back edge clips.
@@jkucukov can you send a link to that video? I’ve got everything apart and feel like I’m going to break something.
@@KT-ic1tq th-cam.com/video/n8U-dK4tbzc/w-d-xo.html
Mine just clicks and doesn’t turn on. I wonder if it’s the solenoids?
If the solenoids are clicking they are working, if your Keurig is not turning on its something to do with the Mother board. On mine the MB is toast.
@@jkucukov I have the same clicking and not turning on problem. What was your outcome? Did you replaced the board or got a new machine?
@@joserazo4520 I got lucky on Ebay, found a replacement board for $20
Mine powers on and heats water but stays in heating mode and clicks a lot. Thoughts?
Does the back just flip over after you have taken all the screws out and heated the top and back? Mine is clicking and the screen is black.
The back cover is interlocked with the adjecent panels, it'll take some prying to get the unit exposed.
@@jkucukov I got it☺️
I posted a new video on the Keurig K150 teardown.
@@jkucukov thank you so much☺️
@@jkucukov3:55 3:56
Were you able to fix it? Mine developed similar issues as yours. Only difference is, my LCD menu has a mind of its own. My guess is the board needs to be replaced. What did you figure out?
I have a working board from ebay for $20, all that is need is the unit be put back together.
The switch on the back of my K155 will not toggle over. I press it and it won't switch over. What gives? Can't get any power.
The toggle switch is a reset button, the machine is normally powered on.
Check the Capacitors to see if one is blown. That's what I changed and it now turns on. Just stuck on "Heating...Please Wait". 😞
As an owner of 4 of these K155 i am done with Keurig. I am tired if paying 300 for a machine that only works 1.5 years and samr problem slow dripping coffee. We only drink 2 cups a day and after more than a year its same thing happens slow drips and you cant fix it. I say stay away maybe buy an espresso like Breville which makes good products vs Keurig. Sorry but i wont buy you cups or your faulty products.
Agreed, these make one great project if you got the time. The unit in the video i got free from work, it was rearly used for a year before it decided to break. Got a replacement board from Ebay for $25 and still havent found time to install it.
dude i hear you as a owner of 3 Keurig's all three went out on me when the first two went out I spent 300 bucks and got one of these business ones for better quality and it worked for 3 years but once a power surge happened completely destroyed it and now all it does is blink and make ticking noises witch I'm pretty sure are relays. but whatever im gonna invest in a different brand.
@@izaacschwieterman132 exactly now i goy their newer model commercial but screen lcd now is glitcy. I dont know why Keurig is just low quality seriously
@@atlant2566 for real. Very low quality