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You'll need something pointy that's strong and sharp to pry the cap out carefully. Try a nail or an scratch awl. You'll have to pry from all sides to get them to come off.

I got the upper two out with a tiny flathead screwdriver, damaging both and losing one in the process, before I put a dab of hot glue on each of the remaining four, held a metal rod to the glue, let it cool and pulled straight out.

@@williamsl798 I like it. Some are stubborn than others. I didnt end up reusing them since they were all gouged to a degree. Also, you'll have few to remove in the mouth of the pod loading. No need to reuse caps since the screws are stainless.

@@jkucukov Thanks, I'm trying to repair it for my parents since I already have a working B140 that they gave me as a housewarming gift. They asked me to take a look at their K150 since it has a persistent 'flow interrupted' error. I've already cleaned both one-way valves which were stuck closed, but it consistently throws the error every time I plug it in and turn it on. I've had the pump apart and confirmed that water reaches it by forgetting to reconnect the cold feed to it before placing the reservoir on, but I'm having difficulty accessing the board. Since it's not mine and I have a policy of trying to keep everything in sellable condition, I'm trying not to cause any damage; leave no trace, or "like I was never here".

I used an exacto blade tip to slide up under the edge of the screw caps. Just go slow and work the tip under the edge and they'll pop right out.

Once you get the bottom metal plate off the front face has two screws at the bottom, remainder of what's holding down the front face are the plastic interlocking mechanisms between the panels. I try showing that in my video. It took lots of finagling getting the machine apart, getting the rear panel to move is key in getting the front face to dislodge at the top using a prying tool.

In my case the ram had internal faults causing hydraulic oil to cavitate, I received a brand new ram from the manufacturer. There is no practical way to repair this issue as it involves cutting the ram housing open finding the issue and rewelding. Try googling the hydraulic ram cavitation.

I followed the reset sequence from here few times vimeo.com/409846831 Had to unplug the cord from wall and plug it back in before starting the video sequence

I tried replacing the two capacitors without luck. Both were confirmed as blown, the replacements were tested prior to being soldered. I think the short goes deeper than the two caps.

@@jkucukov The larger capacitor is across the diode bridge that's next to it. If it actually shorted, over time it could have taken out one or more of the diodes. The smaller capacitor is across the output of the 18V regulator next to it, marked U3. (The one next to that, marked UX1, is 3.3V.)

Just wanted to say, you were right about the 1000uf caps in the mainboard. Swapping them out fixed boot loop issue. Thanks for posting!

@@EthanReishLFCRP Thanks for the feedback.

Yes indeed, that was the footage i took to show the company what i was dealing with. They ended up sending me a new ram. After many bleeding attempts there was no way to fix it. I assume a bad internal seal causing cavitation.

Here's the part 1 video, th-cam.com/video/YJucQYCvsaQ/w-d-xo.html

Form what I remember there were two screws at the bottom of the front panel securing it to the base trim. Post a video, let me see where you are at with the disassembly.

Not normal, you'll see that happening if there is a leak in the wand connections or the trigger valve in the wand is faulty. On mine I had leaky connection where the pressure hose meets the wand.

Glad to hear you were able to fix your machine, what was the problem with yours?

I watched a video on replacing those two capacitors (25v & 35v). I replaced them last year but got no response from the board, i think the fault in my board is way worse, since then i got a whole working board from another Machine.

@@jkucukov Brandon , what were the symptoms of your problem.. mine just clicks when plugged in.

Sorry, I named it part 2 after i published the first video of attempting to diagnose K150 th-cam.com/video/YJucQYCvsaQ/w-d-xo.html

The toggle switch is a reset button, the machine is normally powered on.

Check the Capacitors to see if one is blown. That's what I changed and it now turns on. Just stuck on "Heating...Please Wait". 😞

Agreed, these make one great project if you got the time. The unit in the video i got free from work, it was rearly used for a year before it decided to break. Got a replacement board from Ebay for $25 and still havent found time to install it.

dude i hear you as a owner of 3 Keurig's all three went out on me when the first two went out I spent 300 bucks and got one of these business ones for better quality and it worked for 3 years but once a power surge happened completely destroyed it and now all it does is blink and make ticking noises witch I'm pretty sure are relays. but whatever im gonna invest in a different brand.

@@izaacschwieterman132 exactly now i goy their newer model commercial but screen lcd now is glitcy. I dont know why Keurig is just low quality seriously

@@atlant2566 for real. Very low quality

The back cover is interlocked with the adjecent panels, it'll take some prying to get the unit exposed.

@@jkucukov I got it☺️

I posted a new video on the Keurig K150 teardown.

@@jkucukov thank you so much☺️

​@@jkucukov3:55 3:56

I have a working board from ebay for $20, all that is need is the unit be put back together.

It was a pain to remove the top cover despite the back being removed, the back cover has clips that hold it together, I remember I had to heat up the plastic to be able to pry it apart without damaging covers. It was not an easy job.

I posted a new video on the Keurig K150 teardown.

All of the screws of the back and bottom panels need to be removed except the tiny ones that hold a IC chip to the metal...then all of the screws need to be removed from the lower inside base plate. Then take the two screws off the brew handle and remove the handle...(i pulled off the style covers of the brew head too) at that point the front cover needs to be pulled from the bottom so it can be raised about 1/4" and release locking tabs that hold the front edge of the top [plate which is part of the back panel. Once the back panel is freed the side panels can be worked free, being careful of front and back edge clips.

@@jkucukov can you send a link to that video? I’ve got everything apart and feel like I’m going to break something.

@@KT-ic1tq th-cam.com/video/n8U-dK4tbzc/w-d-xo.html

If the solenoids are clicking they are working, if your Keurig is not turning on its something to do with the Mother board. On mine the MB is toast.

@@jkucukov I have the same clicking and not turning on problem. What was your outcome? Did you replaced the board or got a new machine?

@@joserazo4520 I got lucky on Ebay, found a replacement board for $20

Mine powers on and heats water but stays in heating mode and clicks a lot. Thoughts?

Danny Oconer , the TB came from a Crown Victoria 4.6L V8, it was the only simple large size TB that i was able to find on the junk yard at the time.