I use medalists and finalist on my bamboo rods I've never had a trout take me into the backing ,In fact I never used backing till I was in my thirties . Trout or bass
Im a young angler with a family, bills, and other priorities. Im really thankful that I dont need to spend $1500-2,000 on a flyrod outfit just to fish. Not that i wouldn't if i had it like that. I can appreciate the quality and craftsmanship of US built stuff and try to always support that. However, a lot of times, you're paying 50-60% more for maybe 10-15% better quality.
Love your honest opinions on expensive rods and reels. Some guys don’t care about price and others do. I want value for money, if I’m going to spend big bucks I’m buying a vintage Hardy perfect, princess, LRH, etc. Built to last
I fish Pflueger Trion and President reels for the last 15 years and going strong. Dropped and Banged on rocks and still functioning. If you drop a Lamson you will most likely bend the frame - $500 for the reel and the frame is bent. The main purpose of a trout reel is to hold the line and yes sometimes use the drag.
Kelly, thank you so much, as a 30 yr., USArmy, ret., combat disabled vet., survived 3 wars, and 4 combat tours, injured, as a convoy gunner, during last 3 Baghdsd tours, lost commander, soldiers, and too many coalition friends. I have just had my 9th operation, left with limited use of my arms and legs, connected up with our local PROJECT HEALING WATERS ORGANIZATION. Since 2008 I have been teaching fly casting, fly tying and fly fishing, and counseling PTSD to our disabled veterans, combat veterans and their families. Trying to leave the killing behind this organization has given me so much back. I would so like to meet you sometime, but, I don't see myself able to comeout to Montana to fish your incredible waters. I have been looking at fly reels that would be a little heavier for my 8 wt., 10' flyrod, where I could swing my heavy streamers. The reels, such as the Orvis Hydros isn't manufactured in this country, after some checking. I decided to go with a used Abel 8, knowing that you have said it was made in the USA, and could double for slinging bass flies. Kelly, as you would expect, my choice had to be made here. Thank you so much for your wonderful information, love, peace, and grace from God to you and your family, MSG Leum :
Thanks Kelly, you are the only one on TH-cam talking sense. Expensive rods and reels will not turn a bad angler into a good one. Smart watercraft/fieldcraft and cheap tackle, will catch you a load of fish. As a wise expert angler said to me years ago(" Pat, I can't teach you how to cast. I can show you the mechanics, then you have to go and teach yourself.")
Another great objective video. However if one is fly fishing and not catching any fish, it is more gratifying to do so with an expensive rod and reel. With that approach one doesn’t have to wonder “is it me or the rod and reel?”
I live in Alnwick North East England where Hardy originates from and there’s a few guys fly fishing with reels passed down in the family from well over a hundred years ago, a guy recently sold one he inherited for silly money, certain models go for a king’s ransom.
I am still using a over 50 year old flyrod and reel. I have one of the original SAGE 4 piece 5# rods produced in 1973. My reel is a original Pflueger Medalist 1495 reel I bought in the late 1960's for $9.95. It has served me well for over 50 years catching Salmon, Trout, and Steelhead in the hundreds. No. It's not for sale.
I have been trout fishing for over 50 years with a CFO lll. It has a beautiful sound that comes into play when I let a big Delaware rainbow run itself out on 6x. I have at least 50 yards backing because I cut off the running line so that I have 70' of fly line and, yes, my better fish get ito the backing. Backing is like excess liability insurance: you don't need it until you do. As far as drag goes, the springs on my CFO seem to wear out; now I don't bother to replace them. I have found the most sensitive, responsive drag is to lightly let the line run out between your middle finger and index finger of your rod hand which you can do while maintaining a solid grip on the rod. The utility of mechanical drags for trout under 5 lbs. or so is exaggerated.
I’m glad someone else said it, Lamson liquids are the best value in all of fly fishing!!! I get to fish 3 days a week and have one in almost every size and even used a little bit in salt, never had one fail or not be capable !!!
I always enjoy watching your stuff. You pretty much tell it like it is! I have Orvis reels that I have bought over the past 15-20 years. Bottom line is, if you take care of them, reels will last a lifetime. And for me, the simpler the reel, the better!
Thanks Kelly! My (5) $40 reels are going on 5 years with some big carp & largemouth caught. I fish almost every day. No problems whatsoever. I like to fight with line in hand pressure more than drag, but every now and then I’ll fight them on the reel. Agree on backing, a carp around 30lbs almost got to it but followed it and kept in on flyline, that was a 4wt. With a 5wt I can keep them pretty close. Have a great one guys! 👍👍👌🎣
Kelly, you hit on several reels that I've added over 45 years. The first was a Pfleuger Medalist. It was my main Stillwater trout reel until last year when I upgraded to a Lamson Liquid in the three-spool set like you mentioned. I matched it to a Douglas Sky G rod. 5 years ago I added two Hardy CA reels that were heavily discounted. 3-4wt LT and 5wt. I really like these reels as they compliment the rods that I fish them with. Thanks for the video. Made feel good about the choices over the years.
I completely agree with Kelly about backing. In 30 plus years of fly fishing I can count on one hand the number of times I got into any backing. I think all of those were due to foul hooked fish. Fishing for Dorados in Argentina, I never got into backing. Yet when I buy a reel with backing, they put so much of it on that the fly line barely fits. I now strip most of it off before adding the fly line--or buy the bare reel and use backing I saved in the past. Personally, I don't like the clicking sound at all. Recently I bought a Lamson Guru S reel which made clicking sounds. I called Lamson and they told me that I can simply cut off that little plastic flap inside the reel that makes that sound, which I did.
If you ever fished for steelhead in the Great Lakes at the mouths of the streams when they are stacking up getting ready to go upstream or kings in a river you will be in your backing more than once. These are 2 scenarios I can think of that a really good reel with a good drag is absolutely needed.
@@TedJ71 Thanks. Perhaps I’ll get to experience one of the situations in your response. I do have good reels ( Bauer rx5 ) so I’ll be ready if/when I get the chance…
II still use same Orvis CFO III reel that I got as a gift when I was 18. That reel has been through a lot in 20+ years, including me running it over with my car, and it just works. Hot big trout on midges, carp, bass, pike, even a Chinook - that reel has handled them all. All I need for trout.
I started out with a Pfleuger Medalist (tough as nails) and then switched over to Orvis CFO reels in the 1070’s that at that time were made in England I was told by Hardy. I believe they were $70-80 back then and came in a nice fleece lined leather case. Beautiful with a sweet sound they still perform well for over 50 years! Buy a quality reel, take good care of it and it should last a lifetime.
Kelly, all my reels are U.S. made. I still have the first Pflueger 1492 I bought in High School. And I have Lamson, Ross and Orvis reels. but two reels that have stood the test of time are my Sci Anglers system one 7/8 and my system two 5/6. I found an article in Fly Fisherman i think that taught me how to take apart the drag and polish it using my drill and a series of sand papers and emery cloths. Those two reels still have no start up problems and I've caught my biggest fish on them -- salt and fresh and both have been through many backings and fly lines. if you want to spend money and you have it...go for it. But you don't need to. Spend your money on good guides and tip them well.
Couldn't agree more Kelly. Fly fished for 17 years and have only had a reel fail once, fished it so much the line went through it. But I guess that happens with almost any reel that doesn't have a little removable housing plate. I personally fish on the cheaper side.
Thanks a ton Kelly, for this and your other commentary on this gear. It is always refreshing to hear an actual expert talk about the realities of equipment...especially for those of us getting started or returning. You make it clear that it is possible to both appreciate much of what is at the top pricing tier, and at the same time acknowledge that there is point of diminishing functional returns when it comes equipment like this. So often in these more esoteric pursuits, it is easy to get sucked into or pushed down a path where more expensive is by definition, better. You help make it clear how to think about "better" in this context and how it might actually impact fishing. For me it is a no brainer. Do I save up for a high dollar rod with matching high dollar reel and gear, or do I spend the same amount for 3 days fishing the Madison, learning from your guides, plus a new rod/reel kit that you really enjoyed fishing. The choice is clear. Much appreciation.
So what you're telling me is that my 50 or 60 year old Medalists are just fine for trout. That's good because I've got a few of them. Now if I could just find the missing screw for one of them. Keep the good stuff coming.
There's a company called One Pfoot that machines high quality parts for Medalists. They've got screws and anything else you might need. They make metal drag plates with 8 indents on both sides which are very handy if you want to reverse which side you reel on, and are such a massive upgrade in smoothness from the plastic drag plates Pflueger started using in the 60s.
Very well described and great overview of different price classes. One thing you didn’t touch on was full frame reels and their advantages. In Scandinavia we’re fishing a lot of Spey, light Spey and shooting heads with very thin shooting lines for large searun brown trout on the coast - full frame reels is a must to avoid tangles on your reel with the shooting line. Maybe that isn’t a problem on the other side of the pond because casting a shooting head with thin mono shooting line isn’t as popular over there. Best regards
I have 13 reels, and 7 of them are older Orvis - in the 40 - 50 year old range - and every one of them is still more than serviceable, with that old-school click. These were "expensive" reels when they came out, and I think comparable to the Hardy in many ways - considering the available technology at the time. I did have to have one of them - a CFO III - serviced because the spring snapped a couple of years ago - and I got it back in about a week, fully serviced, for the cost of shipping. You do indeed get what you pay for, but I'm not likely to pay for a pretty paint job.
Great information. In general, a fish doesn't know what you paid for your rod and reel. I just fished with a guy who paid $1,100 for his setup and he didn't catch a thing. I used my $200 Cabelas combo and caught a dozen. Leader, tippet size and presentation is key.
Great video! Especially your thoughts on the backing. A local , well respected fly shop actually recommended cutting my fly line in half to add more backing! I’m serious! One thing you didn’t mention was service from the manufacturer. Several years ago I was fishing out West and the Salmon Fly hatch was amazing. A lady dropped her reel in the fly shop. The reel was bent and inoperable. The fly shop called the manufacturer and they said they would FedEx her one. It arrived the next day and her trip was a success. That company is Hatch. Quality American service is priceless. Awesome video Kelly. Best!
Thanks for this breakdown. I tend to get locked into one brand or another if it represents good value for the money. I have the Lamson 3 pack and like it quite well. One great value in reels, in my opinion, is Danielsson reels out of Sweden. I have a number of them now and find the fit and finish amazing for the price. The "dry fly" reel being the epitome of simplicity and efficiency. Thanks again for your insights and I was glad you hear you point out in your 1000 dollar rod breakdown, that spending a grand on a rod might make sense if the rod is custom made to order by a craftsman. Cheers from the Yukon
Kelly you are so spot on. I am a custom rod maker and avid fly fisherman from PA. I get the question all the time. "What reel should I put on this rod?". Hands down the Lampson liquid.
I was turned on to Danielsson reels from Sweden. There are no retailers, only factory direct. The reels range from 0-2 wt all the way up to 14 wt. The reels are fully machined to tight tolerances, no cast parts! I bought 1 for my Beulah switch rod and i won't buy anything else from now on. I'm building a 7wt spey and an 8wt spey set-ups and I will have Danielsson reels on both. Worth every penny due to factory pricing.
I am at the opposite end of the spectrum on reel weight and balance. Normally balance arguments are specious. You hear them with paddles, or oars, and reels. The old would you rather have gear that functions, but is weightless, or balanced. Before making up your mind, try casting a rod with the reel in your pocket. I put a lot of effort into getting all unnecessary weight out of reel seats, spacings, and reels, but maybe I will try something different for a change.
Spot on as always KG. I would add that in certain trout situations, like fishing dries on the Henry’s fork using 6x: drag matters more, not in terms of resistance, but terms of even and smooth. Even then, seldom do I really get into the backing. Otherwise, in trout fishing a reel to me is for balancing the casting stoke and holding line, plus whatever amount of abuse you want it to take and esthetics. As you say, saltwater is another game, where you might someday discuss older cork drags versus the newer sealed drags.
Thanks for the video. I've been bass fishing with everything but fly for years now and I'm looking to get into trout fishing in Virginia so it was a great help.
Hi Kelly. I am from the UK and now well into my sixties. I have a couple of Lamson reels which I bought some years ago and they are still working as well as when they were new and they are comparable with the reels on the market today. Like you I like a bit of weight in the reel, so that the rod tip is slightly higher than the handle when the rod is balanced on the point at which you hold it when fishing. I also still enjoy using some of my older, heavier and slower rods and the heavier reel set up gives me a good balance. My only set up that varies from this is a Sage Dart 7'6" matched with a Wychwood River & stream reel, loaded with a 3wt line and no backing. This set up weighs very little and is effortless to carry and ideal for the exploration of small streams where you have to walk to find the fish. I'm sorry to have gone a very long way round to say that I agree whole heartedly with the message that you have been sending out about rods, reels etc, personal needs and cost. From a moral standpoint or one of allegiance I try not to buy equipment made In certain countries and if I can afford it would always try to support local manufacturers. Other than in salt water, I've only ever been down to the backing once and fully agree with you that if you are in a river you probably have little chance of getting the fish to the net in this scenario. Many thanks for the information, insight and philosophy contained in your vlogs. Kind regards, David.
I've lived the budget life out of necessity, basically my entire life. I have three fly reels. A White River HC II that was a gift and my first reel, a Martin 63 that I inherited, and a $32 Chinese reel I got off Amazon, the only one I've purchased for myself (I liked the paint job). They all work great and do the job they're meant to do. Fly reels are so simple compared to other types of reels. Get into the expensive options and you're basically paying for jewelry.
Do you need drag in saltwater? Maybe. But maybe not. I was a licensed guide out in California from 1995 to 2012. I conducted trips on San Diego Bay, Mission Bay, and Newport Bay. The main targeted species were spotted sand bass (Paralabrax maculatofasciatus) and yellowfin croaker (Umbrina roncador). Pound for pound, the spotted sand bass is the meanest thing in the water in lives in. They stay pissed off from the moment you set the hook until you either kill them or let them go. Both the spotted sand bass and the yellowfin croaker are, in my opinion, "spunkier" than any landlocked trout could ever dream of being. I started catching them on fly tackle when I first took up fly fishing back in 1983. I had a U.S. made Fenwick WF866-2 World Class six-weight and some kind of click-pawl reel. I'm having a hard time remembering an fish not "ass hooked" that took me into my backing. I still ended up "upgrading" to an Orvis Battenkill with a disc drag that was superfluous, most of the time, fishing the Southern California surf and shallow bays. I got a Teton, which I absolutely adored, but I bought it because it was machined from billet and triple anodized "Air Force blue" and was made out of stuff that would withstand salt water exposure. The drag, which was great on that reel, only got to show how great it was if I fished off-shore, or caught orangemouth corvina when the Salton Sea still had them in it, or caught striped bass in the Sacramento River delta, or caught steelhead on the Smith River or the Klamath. That leaves a whole bunch of fly fishing where the drag fundamentally didn't matter, even for a lot of the saltwater fishing I did, and since I lived closer to the beach than a trout stream, I did more fly fishing in saltwater than fresh and, in truth, I could have done most of it with a click pawl reel.
If you do a lot of saltwater fishing in tropical environments then an expensive reel makes sense but unless you do offshore your bass and nearshore species are fine on mid and entry level reels.
With all respect to Mr. Galloup, I agree with his preference for "tall skinny" reels for their fast line pickup. Technically however, this is because of their large OUTSIDE diameter NOT their arbor size. (For the record, I fish a 1940 vintage Pflueger Medalist 1496.)
Great no nonsense video on fly reels. I own one of those Echo base reels, a Liquid and a Remix (with 4 spools), and a Ross Colorado. The Colorado was a bit of a splurge but it was paired with a custom rod that I acquired in a barter and was a retirement gift to myself. I noticed that reels made by a certain company (starts with an O) were not mentioned. I bought one of their combo rod/reels in an 8wt and am planning on taking it to the Georgia coast for redfish. I am totally enamoured with the reel that came with it. A Nautilaus would be great, but I"ve been looking at Dannielson reels as well. I also picked up a Hardy Demon 5wt on eBay for a steal and have though about matching it with a Hardy reel. I fell in love with a Marquis at a cane rod demo day, but the UDLA sounds enticing too. I just can justify spending that amount of money for the amount of fishing I do.
Nice job on this video and the $1,000 Rod one also. I agree completely with the sentiment you're expressing. On this video, I can't help but mention my favorite reels, Danielsson reels built in Sweden, sold direct to the consumer, and shipped via DHL to the U.S. in a week or less. I use a large reel on my spey rods and it costs (inc shipping) around $275. I have owned and used high end U.S. made reels and simply the Danielsson is as good or better than any of the U.S. made reels which cost at least twice as much. I'd really like to hear what you think about the Swedes versus the Yankee-made reels, especially considering the difference in cost.
Have that evolution r and I love it. That drag nob and finish is so pretty in platinum. I’m gonna order a black spare spool to have a two toned reel for my 6 wt! I think I’m going to purchase a San Miguel in platinum for my 3/4wt. I also like the free spooling effect of the reel on line pickup
American made is one thing, but American made isn't the only high quality. Personally I've seen many nice reels that performs just as well for half the price or even third of the price. That being said, as long as the reel does exactly what it was made to do, the rest is TOTALLY all preference.
Great video. I have the Lamson Liquid and I love it. I put it on a TFO Lefty Kreh Commander rod that I bought at a pawn show. Best reel in my arsenal right now.
Thanks Kelly. Love your down to earth attitude. I have a Nautilus XL Max and love it. I recently bought a Galvan Torque and I quite like it too, for what seemed like a good price. You did not mention Galvan in your video (yes I know that you can't realistically mention every reel ever made). Wondering how you feel about Galvan reels? Thx
Hey Kelly. I troll for big trout with fly gear. Mostly best buy stuff. The Orvis Battinkil / BFR it has agreat drag for trolling as you can have it on full and very quickly turn it off and let them run.
I bought my scierra brand waders and boots 5 seasons ago. They're still in excellent condition, cost less than 300 for the whole set. I know a guy who has returned a very expensive set of waders twice due to leaking at the stocking join. It pains me to see quality issues on gear costing over a grand. It simply should not happen. Ever. People like to crap on stuff that's made in Asia and only buy American. Your prerogative, but I've yet to justify paying 4 or 5 times for UK/USA made fishing gear. It won't help me catch more fish and I'd rather the money went into the kitty for my kid's university fund...
You could also mention that cost of spare spools could be a consideration. For lake fishing you might carry several spare spools with different lines. Lamson Liquid is great that way.
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If you like the fast line pickup.... Then look at the Speedline from Peux. It takes 1 hand reel crank for a 4.5 spool rotation (approx. 49inches of line pick-up). Also has an anti-reverse to prevent the fish from nesting your spool... Yeah I know it's not made in America but I don't think that stuff coming from Switzerland would be poorly machined.
I’m a budget conscious fisher and I believe in the most fun per dollar. That being said… Some of my cheap reels have fallen apart while using them. Drag knobs, handles and screws coming loose from the foot. Also the drags wouldn’t adjust very well after a while.
I fished BASS professionally (qualified for 2 Classics) and fish with bait casters mostly and good reels cost $200. I’m pretty new to fly fishing. Fly reels are very simple mechanically so I really don’t understand how some of them can be so expensive?
I get the wide reel thing, and bought some of the earliest examples. When I started fly fishing, the equivalent reels were the multipliers that used gearing to improve line recovery, or the funny automatics. Largely these reels were regarded as cheating, I don't think you could log a record caught on one, but maybe I am wrong. You would get strange looks if you fished one, and maybe say something like "I have arthritis". But it's the 2000s, and everyone is a cheat. And you cheat yourself out of a little fun, contact with the past, and practice for when you hook into something that can really rip out the line. At some point fly fishing is easier than fishing bait, and there isn't a single thing wrong with that...
One correction is that the Lamson liquid is not American Made. From their site: Liquid and Remix use both U.S. and overseas manufactured component parts. I wish it was, because it IS a great value with spare spools… but you need to go higher price to get true, 100% Made in the USA. I agree with all of your points, though. I’m happy to pay more for a USA made reel and base my decision on the sound of the reel almost as much as the looks.
Not that I know anything compared to him, but I have a freespooling reel, and I personally don't love it because it takes line in while casting and it has caused some tangles while I was using it. Otherwise, I love the reel.
If one isn't fishing for true big game then nice reels are just because I like them.I bought the first CNC reel to come out, the Ross R1, and I collect then very slightly. I have 4 I think, and 2 of the S1s. I got into a habit suggested by Art Lee of buying reels and not spools. It is more convenient, and one can just have a few more pretty, high function reels. What there is no doubt about is that high end reels are better than the cast reels they replaced (not the same as saying they will catch you more small specie fish). Expensive rods are not better. So if you like them, and you want them, no harm buying nice reels. And now everyone can have them because there are very nice digital reels, reels that are probably better than a hand made Bogdon, certainly prettier, for what a Pflueger cost, or less in current funds. So everyone can play. Why would I say modern machined reels are better than the cast reels of old. There are tons of reasons. The Hardy Marquis was probably the workhorse decent reel when the CNC revolution hit. I lost the best fish I ever caught in a pond when the spool fell of the Marquis when the latch failed, it was a cheap stamped part where the retaining screws could fail. One change we got when CNC came in was that everyone could make reels you didn't need a foundry. So we got rapid improvements in design. The first CNC reel had a captive large screw holding the spool in place. It never fails. Anothe advantage in that machined reel parts are stronger than cast, and can be lighter. It goes on and on.
1000 dollar rods breaks just as easy as a 200 dollar rod, a good reel makes life easy if it has a smooth drag, but ive also land more 24inch brown trout on click pawls than any other reel, if anybody remembers "Ryobi Maglites" i had the 5/6 weight, i even landed a 16lb king with it!
Love the video. Some beef. Rio Lines are American Made. The last 3 Rio lines I purchased and fished started cracking after a few months of use. Redington Waders are also American Made, the ones i got started leaking after a few months of use. Their boots are also American Made. They shred laces. I'm on my 3rd pair since September. So to me paying the "American Made" price just isn't worth it to me. Hell I have a MaxCatch Chinesum 15 dollar fly line that has out lasted three 99-129 dollar rio lines! So when anyone says its "made in america thats why its 300 dollars more." I lose some real confidence in the product. I hate feeling that way, but so far American Made is not much better than Chinese made.
I like the way Kelly differentiates perfectly acceptable everyman/everywoman gear against doctor/lawyer/politician bling gear. There are *so* many shills on TH-cam when it comes to fly fishing. Good on ya, Kelly!
….and then there are some of us that don’t fit into your sarcastic pigeon holes but grew up with inexpensive fishing gear using handmade lures, had successful careers, and in our twilight years have decided to treat ourselves with quality equipment that may cost a few bucks more.
I have old Japanese reels (Shimano/Okuma) that my grandfather used 20 or 30 years ago. I still use them with my light setup. I bought an echo bravo 7-9 for light salt and predator use. It's taken a beating and is really scuffed up, not because I don't care for my stuff, on the contrary, it's just the environments I fish aren't too kind to my gear. That being said, the reels still work really well. I'd be gutted if I spent a grand on a flashy Abel reel and it looked like shit after a season. If I had the disposable income there would be a few high end reels in my gear box for sure. Remember; we tend to use multiple reels and many more spools if we fish many line types. There must be saltwater guys with 10k plus sat on their shelves. My maxcatch made in china reel has landed me hundreds of carp and still works so they must be getting something right.
Many thx for the profound & sufficient words about reel choice. I missed one thing, I do not want to miss in a flyreel anymore: for me is a closed cage mandatory, meanwhile, the more I fish. What do you think in terms of closed cage vs. open cage reels?
I have a 200 dollar 6 sizeTrophy by martin fly rod and the Okuma carbon fibre cheap reel from years ago.All i really notice is the new reels have a much bigger spool core in the middle.I hate trying to reel with this tiny core as it takes a very long time to spool in .Had an old Hardy too but it did the same thing .Looking spend close to a hun for a budjet reel with big core so i can reel fish in much faster.What you recomend?
Thanks for the informative content, as a beginner I found it very useful. I am about to purchase my first fly fishing setup and am torn between purchasing a pre-made setup from Basspro or spending a bit more money and purchasing a Lamson Liquid (which i found on sale w/ 2 extra spools for $150) and pairing w/ a Moonshine Drifter II retail $200 (can get for about $170). So, $100 vs $320, what would you recommend? I am currently a conventional/big swimbait bass fisherman, but am interested in learning the skill of fly fishing. Thanks for your time Kelly.
i run maxcatch tail reels..have 4 or 5 of them... is the same reel as the tfo nxt,,, i ordered 3 tail reels for maxcatch.. 2 came in the maxcatch the reel box.. 1 came in the tfo reel box...i checked against other tfo reels.. all the parts interchange perfectly
The thing to me is I can buy 5 $100 reels for the price of 1 $500. version! So if I break/ wear out one, I just buy another and use it till it’s gone! I am guessing that’s better value for me in the long run! But I do appreciate finely engineered machinery but just can’t justify the cost for this purpose! I own reels that still work 50 years later that I paid $20. for at the time.
100% agree with a slightly heavier reel. I am not into the trend to bring weight down to almost nothing..a little extra weight helps. I like to go 1 weight under.. so a 5/6 with a 4. Awesome video, and share your respect for American Made reels along with more affordable cast reels
How tight are tolerances? Apart from standard bearing fits the really important is drum to backplate running gap, .050 won't do here you want at most .002 and if you material is stable enough even less. Paul S.
You didn't cover the Chinese reels, for under $50 you can get a very functional reel. So what if you drop it and dent the spool, you can buy 5 of them for the price of 1 Hardy
The old Liquids are on my 4 & 6 wt rods. Solid for small Montana stream trout. My 5wt NRX has a Lamson Speedster S that I use on the Mo & Blackfoot and don't regret it.
Blows me away that within a year reels went up at least 100 bucks. The lamson remix kit is $390 and the hardy reel went from $300 at cabelas to $480 at my local fly shop in canada. No longer cheap reals anymore
Inflations reely (haha) killing us. At this point I’m looking for used galvans that are in good condition because paying msrp this year for a new reel (or rod for that matter) feels insane
@@CtrolokDoncov yup inflation makes it more expensive... that's why you start making other incomes not just one .. i have 4 incomes online and now i can spend 500+ on reels and rods no problem but i still tend to stay away from overspending lol
I started with the pfleuger medalist in 60’s then around late 60’s or early 70’s Scientific Anglers came out with their System rods n reels. Was the best thing out back then next to the Brown glass Fenwicks which I fished with for years before graphite was perfected. I still have a couple of system 4, 5 reels by Hardy bros.
I have a pfleuger from the 70's, fished for Atlantic Salmon and have never lost a fish because of the reel. I have a couple of Hardy's too. From the 70's still working, no need to change a thing.
I started with the brown fenwick rods and medalists ! Remember when SA rods came out, were $50! I bought a 5wt and system 5 reel and thought that was a big improvement over the Fenwick. Who would a guessed what was coming down the pike in the following decades . Fly fishing and tying have come a long way from those days !
Word of advice…never ask this question on the fly fishing subreddit. I asked how much I was missing out because I use mostly cheaper reels and essentially got drawn and quartered. One guy even said “it’s none of your business what I spend my money on” almost verbatim…all of this because I asked what I might be missing. All of the stuff I contributed to that sub…all the questions asked, the encouragement given, the advice to newer angers, the gear recommendations, all shot to hell over an innocent question. It left such a horrible taste in my mouth, I haven’t been back since 😑
Theres so many great reels out there today without breaking the bank. Those Lamson Liquids and Echo Bravos are fantastic. I'd love to go with Galvan, Nautilus, Abel etc but I need the money for gas.
On anything 5wt or lighter your palm or fingers is the best drag. And if it doesn't freewheel on the uptake I don't want it. $50 on a 5wt or less works for me.
So if you compare what that older reel costs against the cost of todays top of the line reels then I think you'll find that the prices are very much comparable.
No, I don´t need an expensive reel, but I want it!
Amen haha
Same 😂
You need one made in uk or usa not china 😄
Same what’s the difference lol
I use medalists and finalist on my bamboo rods I've never had a trout take me into the backing ,In fact I never used backing till I was in my thirties . Trout or bass
Support Kelly and his shop all day because of the experience/value he offers to anglers. No BS and his opinion is super necessary.
Im a young angler with a family, bills, and other priorities. Im really thankful that I dont need to spend $1500-2,000 on a flyrod outfit just to fish. Not that i wouldn't if i had it like that. I can appreciate the quality and craftsmanship of US built stuff and try to always support that. However, a lot of times, you're paying 50-60% more for maybe 10-15% better quality.
Shop used on eBay
Love your honest opinions on expensive rods and reels. Some guys don’t care about price and others do. I want value for money, if I’m going to spend big bucks I’m buying a vintage Hardy perfect, princess, LRH, etc. Built to last
Love your videos, I'm a new fly fisherman and thought I needed $1000 equipment until I started watching you.
Thank you.
I fish Pflueger Trion and President reels for the last 15 years and going strong. Dropped and Banged on rocks and still functioning. If you drop a Lamson you will most likely bend the frame - $500 for the reel and the frame is bent. The main purpose of a trout reel is to hold the line and yes sometimes use the drag.
Finally!!!! "Rarely seen backing." Thank you. If a trout gets out over 150 feet ... So many mistakes were made. Great Video Kelly!
Kelly, thank you so much, as a 30 yr., USArmy, ret., combat disabled vet., survived 3 wars, and 4 combat tours, injured, as a convoy gunner, during last 3 Baghdsd tours, lost commander, soldiers, and too many coalition friends. I have just had my 9th operation, left with limited use of my arms and legs, connected up with our local PROJECT HEALING WATERS ORGANIZATION. Since 2008 I have been teaching fly casting, fly tying and fly fishing, and counseling PTSD to our disabled veterans, combat veterans and their families. Trying to leave the killing behind this organization has given me so much back. I would so like to meet you sometime, but, I don't see myself able to comeout to Montana to fish your incredible waters. I have been looking at fly reels that would be a little heavier for my 8 wt., 10' flyrod, where I could swing my heavy streamers. The reels, such as the Orvis Hydros isn't manufactured in this country, after some checking. I decided to go with a used Abel 8, knowing that you have said it was made in the USA, and could double for slinging bass flies. Kelly, as you would expect, my choice had to be made here. Thank you so much for your wonderful information, love, peace, and grace from God to you and your family,
MSG Leum :
I love your common sense approach to everything fly fishing. Thank You.
Thanks Kelly, you are the only one on TH-cam talking sense. Expensive rods and reels will not turn a bad angler into a good one. Smart watercraft/fieldcraft and cheap tackle, will catch you a load of fish. As a wise expert angler said to me years ago(" Pat, I can't teach you how to cast. I can show you the mechanics, then you have to go and teach yourself.")
Another great objective video. However if one is fly fishing and not catching any fish, it is more gratifying to do so with an expensive rod and reel. With that approach one doesn’t have to wonder “is it me or the rod and reel?”
I live in Alnwick North East England where Hardy originates from and there’s a few guys fly fishing with reels passed down in the family from well over a hundred years ago, a guy recently sold one he inherited for silly money, certain models go for a king’s ransom.
I am still using a over 50 year old flyrod and reel. I have one of the original SAGE 4 piece 5# rods produced in 1973. My reel is a original Pflueger Medalist 1495 reel I bought in the late 1960's for $9.95. It has served me well for over 50 years catching Salmon, Trout, and Steelhead in the hundreds. No. It's not for sale.
Awesome video, Kelly. I’m a budget flu guy, and you make me feel so confident in that decision. Please keep it up.
I have been trout fishing for over 50 years with a CFO lll. It has a beautiful sound that comes into play when I let a big Delaware rainbow run itself out on 6x. I have at least 50 yards backing because I cut off the running line so that I have 70' of fly line and, yes, my better fish get ito the backing. Backing is like excess liability insurance: you don't need it until you do. As far as drag goes, the springs on my CFO seem to wear out; now I don't bother to replace them. I have found the most sensitive, responsive drag is to lightly let the line run out between your middle finger and index finger of your rod hand which you can do while maintaining a solid grip on the rod. The utility of mechanical drags for trout under 5 lbs. or so is exaggerated.
I’m glad someone else said it, Lamson liquids are the best value in all of fly fishing!!! I get to fish 3 days a week and have one in almost every size and even used a little bit in salt, never had one fail or not be capable !!!
I always enjoy watching your stuff. You pretty much tell it like it is! I have Orvis reels that I have bought over the past 15-20 years. Bottom line is, if you take care of them, reels will last a lifetime. And for me, the simpler the reel, the better!
Thanks Kelly! My (5) $40 reels are going on 5 years with some big carp & largemouth caught. I fish almost every day. No problems whatsoever. I like to fight with line in hand pressure more than drag, but every now and then I’ll fight them on the reel. Agree on backing, a carp around 30lbs almost got to it but followed it and kept in on flyline, that was a 4wt. With a 5wt I can keep them pretty close. Have a great one guys! 👍👍👌🎣
Kelly, you hit on several reels that I've added over 45 years. The first was a Pfleuger Medalist. It was my main Stillwater trout reel until last year when I upgraded to a Lamson Liquid in the three-spool set like you mentioned. I matched it to a Douglas Sky G rod.
5 years ago I added two Hardy CA reels that were heavily discounted. 3-4wt LT and 5wt. I really like these reels as they compliment the rods that I fish them with.
Thanks for the video. Made feel good about the choices over the years.
I completely agree with Kelly about backing. In 30 plus years of fly fishing I can count on one hand the number of times I got into any backing. I think all of those were due to foul hooked fish. Fishing for Dorados in Argentina, I never got into backing. Yet when I buy a reel with backing, they put so much of it on that the fly line barely fits. I now strip most of it off before adding the fly line--or buy the bare reel and use backing I saved in the past.
Personally, I don't like the clicking sound at all. Recently I bought a Lamson Guru S reel which made clicking sounds. I called Lamson and they told me that I can simply cut off that little plastic flap inside the reel that makes that sound, which I did.
If you ever fished for steelhead in the Great Lakes at the mouths of the streams when they are stacking up getting ready to go upstream or kings in a river you will be in your backing more than once. These are 2 scenarios I can think of that a really good reel with a good drag is absolutely needed.
@@TedJ71 Thanks. Perhaps I’ll get to experience one of the situations in your response. I do have good reels ( Bauer rx5 ) so I’ll be ready if/when I get the chance…
II still use same Orvis CFO III reel that I got as a gift when I was 18. That reel has been through a lot in 20+ years, including me running it over with my car, and it just works. Hot big trout on midges, carp, bass, pike, even a Chinook - that reel has handled them all. All I need for trout.
I started out with a Pfleuger Medalist (tough as nails) and then switched over to Orvis CFO reels in the 1070’s that at that time were made in England I was told by Hardy. I believe they were $70-80 back then and came in a nice fleece lined leather case. Beautiful with a sweet sound they still perform well for over 50 years! Buy a quality reel, take good care of it and it should last a lifetime.
Me too
Kelly, all my reels are U.S. made. I still have the first Pflueger 1492 I bought in High School. And I have Lamson, Ross and Orvis reels. but two reels that have stood the test of time are my Sci Anglers system one 7/8 and my system two 5/6. I found an article in Fly Fisherman i think that taught me how to take apart the drag and polish it using my drill and a series of sand papers and emery cloths. Those two reels still have no start up problems and I've caught my biggest fish on them -- salt and fresh and both have been through many backings and fly lines. if you want to spend money and you have it...go for it. But you don't need to. Spend your money on good guides and tip them well.
Agree on the Larson liquid. I bought the three pack despite not needing another reel.
Couldn't agree more Kelly. Fly fished for 17 years and have only had a reel fail once, fished it so much the line went through it. But I guess that happens with almost any reel that doesn't have a little removable housing plate. I personally fish on the cheaper side.
Thanks a ton Kelly, for this and your other commentary on this gear. It is always refreshing to hear an actual expert talk about the realities of equipment...especially for those of us getting started or returning. You make it clear that it is possible to both appreciate much of what is at the top pricing tier, and at the same time acknowledge that there is point of diminishing functional returns when it comes equipment like this. So often in these more esoteric pursuits, it is easy to get sucked into or pushed down a path where more expensive is by definition, better. You help make it clear how to think about "better" in this context and how it might actually impact fishing. For me it is a no brainer. Do I save up for a high dollar rod with matching high dollar reel and gear, or do I spend the same amount for 3 days fishing the Madison, learning from your guides, plus a new rod/reel kit that you really enjoyed fishing. The choice is clear. Much appreciation.
So what you're telling me is that my 50 or 60 year old Medalists are just fine for trout. That's good because I've got a few of them. Now if I could just find the missing screw for one of them. Keep the good stuff coming.
Love the Medalists, all of them.
There's a company called One Pfoot that machines high quality parts for Medalists. They've got screws and anything else you might need. They make metal drag plates with 8 indents on both sides which are very handy if you want to reverse which side you reel on, and are such a massive upgrade in smoothness from the plastic drag plates Pflueger started using in the 60s.
@@hobozero9966 Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!!!!
don't know how you could contact me, but I found a crushed Medalist reel that I kept for the screws. Be happy to send a you a screw to you to use.
I think I found you I'll send you a PM in about 5 minutes.
Love my old Ross Evolution reel. 👍Great video and very helpful.
Very well described and great overview of different price classes. One thing you didn’t touch on was full frame reels and their advantages. In Scandinavia we’re fishing a lot of Spey, light Spey and shooting heads with very thin shooting lines for large searun brown trout on the coast - full frame reels is a must to avoid tangles on your reel with the shooting line. Maybe that isn’t a problem on the other side of the pond because casting a shooting head with thin mono shooting line isn’t as popular over there.
Best regards
I have 13 reels, and 7 of them are older Orvis - in the 40 - 50 year old range - and every one of them is still more than serviceable, with that old-school click. These were "expensive" reels when they came out, and I think comparable to the Hardy in many ways - considering the available technology at the time. I did have to have one of them - a CFO III - serviced because the spring snapped a couple of years ago - and I got it back in about a week, fully serviced, for the cost of shipping. You do indeed get what you pay for, but I'm not likely to pay for a pretty paint job.
Guess who made Orvis's old school reels? Hardy of course
Great information. In general, a fish doesn't know what you paid for your rod and reel. I just fished with a guy who paid $1,100 for his setup and he didn't catch a thing. I used my $200 Cabelas combo and caught a dozen. Leader, tippet size and presentation is key.
Great video! Especially your thoughts on the backing. A local , well respected fly shop actually recommended cutting my fly line in half to add more backing! I’m serious! One thing you didn’t mention was service from the manufacturer. Several years ago I was fishing out West and the Salmon Fly hatch was amazing. A lady dropped her reel in the fly shop. The reel was bent and inoperable. The fly shop called the manufacturer and they said they would FedEx her one. It arrived the next day and her trip was a success. That company is Hatch. Quality American service is priceless. Awesome video Kelly. Best!
Thanks for this breakdown. I tend to get locked into one brand or another if it represents good value for the money. I have the Lamson 3 pack and like it quite well. One great value in reels, in my opinion, is Danielsson reels out of Sweden. I have a number of them now and find the fit and finish amazing for the price. The "dry fly" reel being the epitome of simplicity and efficiency. Thanks again for your insights and I was glad you hear you point out in your 1000 dollar rod breakdown, that spending a grand on a rod might make sense if the rod is custom made to order by a craftsman. Cheers from the Yukon
Kelly you are so spot on. I am a custom rod maker and avid fly fisherman from PA.
I get the question all the time. "What reel should I put on this rod?".
Hands down the Lampson liquid.
Just wanted to thank you for your videos.
I'm just starting out and your videos are appreciated for putting things in perspective.
Thank you.
I was turned on to Danielsson reels from Sweden. There are no retailers, only factory direct. The reels range from 0-2 wt all the way up to 14 wt. The reels are fully machined to tight tolerances, no cast parts! I bought 1 for my Beulah switch rod and i won't buy anything else from now on. I'm building a 7wt spey and an 8wt spey set-ups and I will have Danielsson reels on both. Worth every penny due to factory pricing.
I am at the opposite end of the spectrum on reel weight and balance. Normally balance arguments are specious. You hear them with paddles, or oars, and reels. The old would you rather have gear that functions, but is weightless, or balanced. Before making up your mind, try casting a rod with the reel in your pocket. I put a lot of effort into getting all unnecessary weight out of reel seats, spacings, and reels, but maybe I will try something different for a change.
Spot on as always KG. I would add that in certain trout situations, like fishing dries on the Henry’s fork using 6x: drag matters more, not in terms of resistance, but terms of even and smooth. Even then, seldom do I really get into the backing. Otherwise, in trout fishing a reel to me is for balancing the casting stoke and holding line, plus whatever amount of abuse you want it to take and esthetics. As you say, saltwater is another game, where you might someday discuss older cork drags versus the newer sealed drags.
I just bought an Islander 3.8 made in Canada. Premium quality!
Thanks for the video. I've been bass fishing with everything but fly for years now and I'm looking to get into trout fishing in Virginia so it was a great help.
Hi Kelly. I am from the UK and now well into my sixties. I have a couple of Lamson reels which I bought some years ago and they are still working as well as when they were new and they are comparable with the reels on the market today. Like you I like a bit of weight in the reel, so that the rod tip is slightly higher than the handle when the rod is balanced on the point at which you hold it when fishing. I also still enjoy using some of my older, heavier and slower rods and the heavier reel set up gives me a good balance. My only set up that varies from this is a Sage Dart 7'6" matched with a Wychwood River & stream reel, loaded with a 3wt line and no backing. This set up weighs very little and is effortless to carry and ideal for the exploration of small streams where you have to walk to find the fish. I'm sorry to have gone a very long way round to say that I agree whole heartedly with the message that you have been sending out about rods, reels etc, personal needs and cost. From a moral standpoint or one of allegiance I try not to buy equipment made In certain countries and if I can afford it would always try to support local manufacturers. Other than in salt water, I've only ever been down to the backing once and fully agree with you that if you are in a river you probably have little chance of getting the fish to the net in this scenario. Many thanks for the information, insight and philosophy contained in your vlogs. Kind regards, David.
I've lived the budget life out of necessity, basically my entire life. I have three fly reels. A White River HC II that was a gift and my first reel, a Martin 63 that I inherited, and a $32 Chinese reel I got off Amazon, the only one I've purchased for myself (I liked the paint job). They all work great and do the job they're meant to do. Fly reels are so simple compared to other types of reels. Get into the expensive options and you're basically paying for jewelry.
Do you need drag in saltwater?
Maybe.
But maybe not.
I was a licensed guide out in California from 1995 to 2012. I conducted trips on San Diego Bay, Mission Bay, and Newport Bay. The main targeted species were spotted sand bass (Paralabrax maculatofasciatus) and yellowfin croaker (Umbrina roncador).
Pound for pound, the spotted sand bass is the meanest thing in the water in lives in. They stay pissed off from the moment you set the hook until you either kill them or let them go. Both the spotted sand bass and the yellowfin croaker are, in my opinion, "spunkier" than any landlocked trout could ever dream of being.
I started catching them on fly tackle when I first took up fly fishing back in 1983. I had a U.S. made Fenwick WF866-2 World Class six-weight and some kind of click-pawl reel. I'm having a hard time remembering an fish not "ass hooked" that took me into my backing. I still ended up "upgrading" to an Orvis Battenkill with a disc drag that was superfluous, most of the time, fishing the Southern California surf and shallow bays.
I got a Teton, which I absolutely adored, but I bought it because it was machined from billet and triple anodized "Air Force blue" and was made out of stuff that would withstand salt water exposure. The drag, which was great on that reel, only got to show how great it was if I fished off-shore, or caught orangemouth corvina when the Salton Sea still had them in it, or caught striped bass in the Sacramento River delta, or caught steelhead on the Smith River or the Klamath.
That leaves a whole bunch of fly fishing where the drag fundamentally didn't matter, even for a lot of the saltwater fishing I did, and since I lived closer to the beach than a trout stream, I did more fly fishing in saltwater than fresh and, in truth, I could have done most of it with a click pawl reel.
If you do a lot of saltwater fishing in tropical environments then an expensive reel makes sense but unless you do offshore your bass and nearshore species are fine on mid and entry level reels.
With all respect to Mr. Galloup, I agree with his preference for "tall skinny" reels for their fast line pickup. Technically however, this is because of their large OUTSIDE diameter NOT their arbor size. (For the record, I fish a 1940 vintage Pflueger Medalist 1496.)
Great no nonsense video on fly reels. I own one of those Echo base reels, a Liquid and a Remix (with 4 spools), and a Ross Colorado. The Colorado was a bit of a splurge but it was paired with a custom rod that I acquired in a barter and was a retirement gift to myself. I noticed that reels made by a certain company (starts with an O) were not mentioned. I bought one of their combo rod/reels in an 8wt and am planning on taking it to the Georgia coast for redfish. I am totally enamoured with the reel that came with it. A Nautilaus would be great, but I"ve been looking at Dannielson reels as well. I also picked up a Hardy Demon 5wt on eBay for a steal and have though about matching it with a Hardy reel. I fell in love with a Marquis at a cane rod demo day, but the UDLA sounds enticing too. I just can justify spending that amount of money for the amount of fishing I do.
Nice job on this video and the $1,000 Rod one also. I agree completely with the sentiment you're expressing. On this video, I can't help but mention my favorite reels, Danielsson reels built in Sweden, sold direct to the consumer, and shipped via DHL to the U.S. in a week or less. I use a large reel on my spey rods and it costs (inc shipping) around $275. I have owned and used high end U.S. made reels and simply the Danielsson is as good or better than any of the U.S. made reels which cost at least twice as much. I'd really like to hear what you think about the Swedes versus the Yankee-made reels, especially considering the difference in cost.
Have that evolution r and I love it. That drag nob and finish is so pretty in platinum. I’m gonna order a black spare spool to have a two toned reel for my 6 wt! I think I’m going to purchase a San Miguel in platinum for my 3/4wt. I also like the free spooling effect of the reel on line pickup
American made is one thing, but American made isn't the only high quality. Personally I've seen many nice reels that performs just as well for half the price or even third of the price. That being said, as long as the reel does exactly what it was made to do, the rest is TOTALLY all preference.
Great video. I have the Lamson Liquid and I love it. I put it on a TFO Lefty Kreh Commander rod that I bought at a pawn show. Best reel in my arsenal right now.
Thanks Kelly. Love your down to earth attitude. I have a Nautilus XL Max and love it. I recently bought a Galvan Torque and I quite like it too, for what seemed like a good price. You did not mention Galvan in your video (yes I know that you can't realistically mention every reel ever made). Wondering how you feel about Galvan reels? Thx
Haven't used one in a long time. Like the ones I used to use. Seemed like quality reels. Can't speak to the recent stuff
Hey Kelly. I troll for big trout with fly gear. Mostly best buy stuff. The Orvis Battinkil / BFR it has agreat drag for trolling as you can have it on full and very quickly turn it off and let them run.
Love my Lamson Liquids. Its been a work horse for Montana trout
Reels and waders. Two things I expect performance and reliability from.
I bought my scierra brand waders and boots 5 seasons ago. They're still in excellent condition, cost less than 300 for the whole set. I know a guy who has returned a very expensive set of waders twice due to leaking at the stocking join. It pains me to see quality issues on gear costing over a grand. It simply should not happen. Ever. People like to crap on stuff that's made in Asia and only buy American. Your prerogative, but I've yet to justify paying 4 or 5 times for UK/USA made fishing gear. It won't help me catch more fish and I'd rather the money went into the kitty for my kid's university fund...
@@rutabaga69 Your kids won’t have jobs if nothing is made here. AI will take over most desk jobs. 🤷♂️
You could also mention that cost of spare spools could be a consideration. For lake fishing you might carry several spare spools with different lines. Lamson Liquid is great that way.
If you like the fast line pickup.... Then look at the Speedline from Peux. It takes 1 hand reel crank for a 4.5 spool rotation (approx. 49inches of line pick-up). Also has an anti-reverse to prevent the fish from nesting your spool... Yeah I know it's not made in America but I don't think that stuff coming from Switzerland would be poorly machined.
I’m a budget conscious fisher and I believe in the most fun per dollar. That being said…
Some of my cheap reels have fallen apart while using them. Drag knobs, handles and screws coming loose from the foot. Also the drags wouldn’t adjust very well after a while.
Just watched the previous reel video, I learned plenty in that one and in this one
I fished BASS professionally (qualified for 2 Classics) and fish with bait casters mostly and good reels cost $200. I’m pretty new to fly fishing. Fly reels are very simple mechanically so I really don’t understand how some of them can be so expensive?
@@ueng928 admittedly there are zero 50 year old casting reels that I would even consider fishing with. I’d use a 50 year old Hardy in a heartbeat!
I get the wide reel thing, and bought some of the earliest examples. When I started fly fishing, the equivalent reels were the multipliers that used gearing to improve line recovery, or the funny automatics. Largely these reels were regarded as cheating, I don't think you could log a record caught on one, but maybe I am wrong. You would get strange looks if you fished one, and maybe say something like "I have arthritis". But it's the 2000s, and everyone is a cheat. And you cheat yourself out of a little fun, contact with the past, and practice for when you hook into something that can really rip out the line. At some point fly fishing is easier than fishing bait, and there isn't a single thing wrong with that...
One correction is that the Lamson liquid is not American Made.
From their site: Liquid and Remix use both U.S. and overseas manufactured component parts.
I wish it was, because it IS a great value with spare spools…
but you need to go higher price to get true, 100% Made in the USA.
I agree with all of your points, though. I’m happy to pay more for a USA made reel and base my decision on the sound of the reel almost as much as the looks.
Kelly nice review at all price points as not every one can/wants to pay a lot of money for a real.
Not that I know anything compared to him, but I have a freespooling reel, and I personally don't love it because it takes line in while casting and it has caused some tangles while I was using it. Otherwise, I love the reel.
If one isn't fishing for true big game then nice reels are just because I like them.I bought the first CNC reel to come out, the Ross R1, and I collect then very slightly. I have 4 I think, and 2 of the S1s. I got into a habit suggested by Art Lee of buying reels and not spools. It is more convenient, and one can just have a few more pretty, high function reels.
What there is no doubt about is that high end reels are better than the cast reels they replaced (not the same as saying they will catch you more small specie fish). Expensive rods are not better. So if you like them, and you want them, no harm buying nice reels.
And now everyone can have them because there are very nice digital reels, reels that are probably better than a hand made Bogdon, certainly prettier, for what a Pflueger cost, or less in current funds. So everyone can play.
Why would I say modern machined reels are better than the cast reels of old. There are tons of reasons. The Hardy Marquis was probably the workhorse decent reel when the CNC revolution hit. I lost the best fish I ever caught in a pond when the spool fell of the Marquis when the latch failed, it was a cheap stamped part where the retaining screws could fail. One change we got when CNC came in was that everyone could make reels you didn't need a foundry. So we got rapid improvements in design. The first CNC reel had a captive large screw holding the spool in place. It never fails.
Anothe advantage in that machined reel parts are stronger than cast, and can be lighter. It goes on and on.
1000 dollar rods breaks just as easy as a 200 dollar rod, a good reel makes life easy if it has a smooth drag, but ive also land more 24inch brown trout on click pawls than any other reel, if anybody remembers "Ryobi Maglites" i had the 5/6 weight, i even landed a 16lb king with it!
Kelly Gallup -the shop owner with great facts and NO BS
im with you on tall skinny reels.. i use braid as backing anyways
Love the video. Some beef. Rio Lines are American Made. The last 3 Rio lines I purchased and fished started cracking after a few months of use. Redington Waders are also American Made, the ones i got started leaking after a few months of use. Their boots are also American Made. They shred laces. I'm on my 3rd pair since September. So to me paying the "American Made" price just isn't worth it to me. Hell I have a MaxCatch Chinesum 15 dollar fly line that has out lasted three 99-129 dollar rio lines! So when anyone says its "made in america thats why its 300 dollars more." I lose some real confidence in the product. I hate feeling that way, but so far American Made is not much better than Chinese made.
Good thing about this country, you still have the option of supporting your Chinese overlords with your money if you so choose.
I very rarely go to the reel. Just to bring in stripped line. Mainly just strip fish in. My line fingers are my drag.
Nice! No bull Kelly….a straight shooter. Now I’m ready to go hook a hog!!
I like the way Kelly differentiates perfectly acceptable everyman/everywoman gear against doctor/lawyer/politician bling gear. There are *so* many shills on TH-cam when it comes to fly fishing. Good on ya, Kelly!
….and then there are some of us that don’t fit into your sarcastic pigeon holes but grew up with inexpensive fishing gear using handmade lures, had successful careers, and in our twilight years have decided to treat ourselves with quality equipment that may cost a few bucks more.
@@DrJohn493someone’s salty 😢
@@DrJohn493…and you proved the point…
I have old Japanese reels (Shimano/Okuma) that my grandfather used 20 or 30 years ago. I still use them with my light setup. I bought an echo bravo 7-9 for light salt and predator use. It's taken a beating and is really scuffed up, not because I don't care for my stuff, on the contrary, it's just the environments I fish aren't too kind to my gear. That being said, the reels still work really well. I'd be gutted if I spent a grand on a flashy Abel reel and it looked like shit after a season. If I had the disposable income there would be a few high end reels in my gear box for sure. Remember; we tend to use multiple reels and many more spools if we fish many line types. There must be saltwater guys with 10k plus sat on their shelves. My maxcatch made in china reel has landed me hundreds of carp and still works so they must be getting something right.
Many thx for the profound & sufficient words about reel choice.
I missed one thing, I do not want to miss in a flyreel anymore: for me is a closed cage mandatory, meanwhile, the more I fish.
What do you think in terms of closed cage vs. open cage reels?
I have a 200 dollar 6 sizeTrophy by martin fly rod and the Okuma carbon fibre cheap reel from years ago.All i really notice is the new reels have a much bigger spool core in the middle.I hate trying to reel with this tiny core as it takes a very long time to spool in .Had an old Hardy too but it did the same thing .Looking spend close to a hun for a budjet reel with big core so i can reel fish in much faster.What you recomend?
Note to self. If i have a problem with my reel, dont have Kelly take it apart.
Thanks for the informative content, as a beginner I found it very useful. I am about to purchase my first fly fishing setup and am torn between purchasing a pre-made setup from Basspro or spending a bit more money and purchasing a Lamson Liquid (which i found on sale w/ 2 extra spools for $150) and pairing w/ a Moonshine Drifter II retail $200 (can get for about $170). So, $100 vs $320, what would you recommend? I am currently a conventional/big swimbait bass fisherman, but am interested in learning the skill of fly fishing. Thanks for your time Kelly.
i run maxcatch tail reels..have 4 or 5 of them... is the same reel as the tfo nxt,,, i ordered 3 tail reels for maxcatch.. 2 came in the maxcatch the reel box.. 1 came in the tfo reel box...i checked against other tfo reels.. all the parts interchange perfectly
Yes, Ross is my go to. I started with a Sage Spec C it was trash.
The thing to me is I can buy 5 $100 reels for the price of 1 $500. version! So if I break/ wear out one, I just buy another and use it till it’s gone!
I am guessing that’s better value for me in the long run! But I do appreciate finely engineered machinery but just can’t justify the cost for this purpose! I own reels that still work 50 years later that I paid $20. for at the time.
100% agree with a slightly heavier reel. I am not into the trend to bring weight down to almost nothing..a little extra weight helps. I like to go 1 weight under.. so a 5/6 with a 4. Awesome video, and share your respect for American Made reels along with more affordable cast reels
How tight are tolerances? Apart from standard bearing fits the really important is drum to backplate running gap, .050 won't do here you want at most .002 and if you material is stable enough even less. Paul S.
You didn't cover the Chinese reels, for under $50 you can get a very functional reel. So what if you drop it and dent the spool, you can buy 5 of them for the price of 1 Hardy
The old Liquids are on my 4 & 6 wt rods. Solid for small Montana stream trout. My 5wt NRX has a Lamson Speedster S that I use on the Mo & Blackfoot and don't regret it.
Blows me away that within a year reels went up at least 100 bucks. The lamson remix kit is $390 and the hardy reel went from $300 at cabelas to $480 at my local fly shop in canada. No longer cheap reals anymore
Inflations reely (haha) killing us. At this point I’m looking for used galvans that are in good condition because paying msrp this year for a new reel (or rod for that matter) feels insane
@@CtrolokDoncov yup inflation makes it more expensive... that's why you start making other incomes not just one .. i have 4 incomes online and now i can spend 500+ on reels and rods no problem but i still tend to stay away from overspending lol
1974 a hardy princess was $59, extra spool $22, still fishing mine.
I started with the pfleuger medalist in 60’s then around late 60’s or early 70’s Scientific Anglers came out with their System rods n reels. Was the best thing out back then next to the Brown glass Fenwicks which I fished with for years before graphite was perfected. I still have a couple of system 4, 5 reels by Hardy bros.
I have a pfleuger from the 70's, fished for Atlantic Salmon and have never lost a fish because of the reel. I have a couple of Hardy's too. From the 70's still working, no need to change a thing.
I started with the brown fenwick rods and medalists ! Remember when SA rods came out, were $50! I bought a 5wt and system 5 reel and thought that was a big improvement over the Fenwick. Who would a guessed what was coming down the pike in the following decades . Fly fishing and tying have come a long way from those days !
i found a ORVIS MADISON made in England IV. do you know if that old school reel is or was a good model back in the day.
I’m dying 😂when the reel decided to “ il show you touching my insides “
Hardy UDLA is not a sealed drag, I also don't like the frame, I sold mine due to the drag and line getting stuck
I have put reels on my rods that cost as much as the rod! haha But I like what I like.
The gloomis venture series is the GOAT reel to me.
Lamsons for trout, Hardys for speys, Tibors for salt.
Word of advice…never ask this question on the fly fishing subreddit. I asked how much I was missing out because I use mostly cheaper reels and essentially got drawn and quartered. One guy even said “it’s none of your business what I spend my money on” almost verbatim…all of this because I asked what I might be missing. All of the stuff I contributed to that sub…all the questions asked, the encouragement given, the advice to newer angers, the gear recommendations, all shot to hell over an innocent question. It left such a horrible taste in my mouth, I haven’t been back since 😑
People on the internet are mean. Don't give up hope.
Theres so many great reels out there today without breaking the bank. Those Lamson Liquids and Echo Bravos are fantastic. I'd love to go with Galvan, Nautilus, Abel etc but I need the money for gas.
Interesting video. I will stay with me inlander reels made in Canada 🇨🇦 👍
On anything 5wt or lighter your palm or fingers is the best drag. And if it doesn't freewheel on the uptake I don't want it. $50 on a 5wt or less works for me.
What about for saltwater? What’s the best bang for your buck there?
“Ass-hooked fish.” 😂
I’ve done that 😁
Excellent excellent excellent videos
So if you compare what that older reel costs against the cost of todays top of the line reels then I think you'll find that the prices are very much comparable.