When I had the generator end re-done it cost me about $650 to have it steam cleaned, rebaked and rewired. If your armature is bad and I think probably a lot of them probably need rewinding it will cost about 1800 last time I looked. If any of the shunts are bad i think their selling for about 295 or so for two and they have four in there. So you do math and it depends who does the work. Billswelderrepair.com in Oklahoma has everything you need for rebuilding them. I used a local shop down here in Louisiana called Martinez only because they were about 2 hours from me but they will not sell the shunts and all you need from what they told me, they want to do the work. Call Billswelderrepair they will sell all you need if you choose to do the work yourself on the generator end or if you are near Oklahoma city they will rebuild the entire machine if you choose to go that route. I assume you are thinking about buying one and all I can say is it's a gamble, if that machine is running and welding it's still possible the armature is bad yeah I know most are thinking BS well yes it's true. The insulation over time breaks down in the armatures. I personally try and pay no more then 500-1000....I refuse to pay more. I been sitting on a 1955 short hood i need to finish building and sell it, I just simply don't have the time right now. The short-hood they charged a hell of a lot to re-do the generator and I think the reason is because its a shorthood. If anything it should have been less because it had less wires to rewire. So I rambled on here and still didn't give you a straight answer because there is no straight answer. Don't get caught all up in the round generators are all copper wound which is true but you can take that action barrel generator from the 80 and punch out the aluminum shunts and add copper and it will be like the round barrels. Many will argue with me about this but I don't see a difference. Resale value you maybe better with a round barrel generator simply because all the stupid rumors out there.
ChrisLawley thanks for your reply. I have a '79 that I've had for a while now it welds great. I was planning on completely rebuilding and repainting it for a project this coming winter. It was my understanding that pretty much all green lights after 1976 were right back to all copper. The 7307 and one other were the aluminum wire copper covered coils. Either way it will be. tha is for getting back to me so soon I'm sure I'll have more questions down the road. Thanks, Chris
@@appalachianchopshop1420 it could be after 76 I know I heard for sure the 1979 had copper sorry i shouldn't have thrown 80 in there, I just meant for you and others reading this not to get caught up in all the dam rumors, I've heard some crazy ass stuff out there people have done or heard someone do to a machine. Chris I will have to send you a before picture of this machine it was a real piece of shit when I got it.
I used a Kubota v2203DI there's a guy up in MN That's on TH-cam here that will sell you a good used engine or a A cheaper complete engine that needs rebuilding. You want to find one that is a 2001 and newer. Go on Facebook group called Lincoln sa200/250 a guy on my group there sells the adaptors and you can see more pictures of engine and all there. Adapters I bought were a lot more but this guys adapter are just as good of quality but cheaper in price. If you have any questions about my build don't hesitate to ask.
No problem, I do know a guy that does these for a living and he said the Kubota is better motor as far as easier to start in cold weather and says it will last longer then say a Yanmar. Kubota is just a easier conversion simply because of how the radiator hoses are there exactly in the same position as the Continental
Brett Forbes yes I did I used stainless. I can’t remember the size so I think what I did was order a few different sizes. I believe I ordered them from Boltdepot.com
Chris what would it cost to do what you did to the generator. To have it completely gone thru
When I had the generator end re-done it cost me about $650 to have it steam cleaned, rebaked and rewired. If your armature is bad and I think probably a lot of them probably need rewinding it will cost about 1800 last time I looked. If any of the shunts are bad i think their selling for about 295 or so for two and they have four in there. So you do math and it depends who does the work. Billswelderrepair.com in Oklahoma has everything you need for rebuilding them. I used a local shop down here in Louisiana called Martinez only because they were about 2 hours from me but they will not sell the shunts and all you need from what they told me, they want to do the work. Call Billswelderrepair they will sell all you need if you choose to do the work yourself on the generator end or if you are near Oklahoma city they will rebuild the entire machine if you choose to go that route.
I assume you are thinking about buying one and all I can say is it's a gamble, if that machine is running and welding it's still possible the armature is bad yeah I know most are thinking BS well yes it's true. The insulation over time breaks down in the armatures. I personally try and pay no more then 500-1000....I refuse to pay more. I been sitting on a 1955 short hood i need to finish building and sell it, I just simply don't have the time right now.
The short-hood they charged a hell of a lot to re-do the generator and I think the reason is because its a shorthood. If anything it should have been less because it had less wires to rewire. So I rambled on here and still didn't give you a straight answer because there is no straight answer. Don't get caught all up in the round generators are all copper wound which is true but you can take that action barrel generator from the 80 and punch out the aluminum shunts and add copper and it will be like the round barrels. Many will argue with me about this but I don't see a difference. Resale value you maybe better with a round barrel generator simply because all the stupid rumors out there.
ChrisLawley
thanks for your reply. I have a '79 that I've had for a while now it welds great. I was planning on completely rebuilding and repainting it for a project this coming winter. It was my understanding that pretty much all green lights after 1976 were right back to all copper. The 7307 and one other were the aluminum wire copper covered coils. Either way it will be. tha is for getting back to me so soon I'm sure I'll have more questions down the road.
Thanks,
Chris
Btw, your machine is slick as glass. I like it, very clean
@@appalachianchopshop1420 it could be after 76 I know I heard for sure the 1979 had copper sorry i shouldn't have thrown 80 in there, I just meant for you and others reading this not to get caught up in all the dam rumors, I've heard some crazy ass stuff out there people have done or heard someone do to a machine. Chris I will have to send you a before picture of this machine it was a real piece of shit when I got it.
Thanks for sharing, what kind of Kabota engine did you use. Any pros and cons you can share would be great. Thanks
I used a Kubota v2203DI there's a guy up in MN
That's on TH-cam here that will sell you a good used engine or a
A cheaper complete engine that needs rebuilding. You want to find one that is a 2001 and newer. Go on Facebook group called Lincoln sa200/250 a guy on my group there sells the adaptors and you can see more pictures of engine and all there. Adapters I bought were a lot more but this guys adapter are just as good of quality but cheaper in price. If you have any questions about my build don't hesitate to ask.
Wgs1955 is his channel or go to
Usedkubotaengines.com
You're the best, Thank you for taking the time to reply. I will look into it
No problem, I do know a guy that does these for a living and he said the Kubota is better motor as far as easier to start in cold weather and says it will last longer then say a Yanmar. Kubota is just a easier conversion simply because of how the radiator hoses are there exactly in the same position as the Continental
How did you run your electric shutoff and get it linked with the Murphy switch?
start/stop solenoid is how it shutdown the motor
You wire it up to the pc board?
@@brendenmiller3636 never used a PC board it's strictly a high idle motor like the red d arcs
Looks awesome
Thanks, about to start posting about this tiny house build/mancave
Sweet machine!
Thanks
Did you put knew face plate screws if so where did you get them?
Brett Forbes yes I did I used stainless. I can’t remember the size so I think what I did was order a few different sizes. I believe I ordered them from Boltdepot.com