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These were new, the d30hp I built I used Revolution gears and I will use them on future builds as they are a way better quality gear. I wish I had learned sooner but oh well hopefully these gears hold up to the little wheeling I’ll eventually end up doing. What I’ve learned is do your best to buy quality gears bearings and carriers, it’s quite hard finding quality gears these days. It’s so important you properly break in gears many do not.

It runs great, I’m still breaking it in. It’s not my daily driver yet and I’ve got a lot more work I’m doing to the jeep. I rebuilt the d30 hp front axle with a oxlocker but used Revolution gears instead of Yukon do to they are a much better quality gear set and gave a better looking pattern. I would have installed Revolution for what I’ve learned now, fingers crossed these Yukon will hold up.

This one is okay, it’s some aftermarket and factory pinion gear heads may stick out a little further that would need grinding. One guy who has Yukon has to do this. Yukon isn’t very good gears anyway. You would be surprised how many lockers have to be installed and modified a certain way to get them to work. Some shave kits require you to shave down tbe ring gear.

Apparently it's only some installations that require it so it makes way more sense to leave it factory finished for quality and reliability sake and only get out the grinder if absolutely necessary in the rare cases where it's needed.

It’s only some installation where you grind just a tiny bit on the pinion teeth.

This was still faster than the last one. I had to order more shims because it didn’t come with a good assortment of pinion preload shims. I keep doing it I’ll get faster.

That’s where I was at learning this. I was handed the keys and told go figure out how to start it. I search and searched and no one shared how to run it. So I wanted to share basic controls. Kaiser s2 and Menzi muck the controls are slightly different. I’m not sure if I’ll be back on this ever again as the front right leg tore off, no idea if the company will fix it. They don’t want to buy anymore of them as they are going with marsh buggies now. Years of being a pipe welder helped me run this thing because I was use both hands fingers both feet sometimes.

It’s not needed for this, I did heat ring gear in the oven though.

Yukon gears

Discovery line shafts is made in India and have a 10 year warranty. USA made have 1 year. I’m re gearing a d30hp using Revolution 30 spline discovery line this time instead of USA.

You tighten it too much. You won’t hurt it you stay with in specs.

So true, I’ve had it since high school and trying to bring it back to life. I’m almost there. I have one more axle to re-gear. Thanks for watching

It works just fine, I test drove it and it’s smooth. I gotta change a steering intermediate shaft before I drive it more but I’m happy with the re gear so far. I have a d30 hp I’ll be doing soon once I get all my parts in

Regular track machine would sink and the footage of these right aways is not much on each side of the ditch. The video before this one the terrain was all over the place from steep sides to very narrow ditch, the legs allow you to operate on all different terrain.

It is but a spider is a lot more fun to run check out my other videos.

Your welcome

I assume you would need to go through Starrett

People move to the swamps and want their fancy neighborhoods to drain.

?

No it’s a transfercase and it’s 26 years old. Jeeps are pretty easy to work on.

Trust me I would but I couldn’t find certain stuff that wasn’t dorman. So I had to go with them for the emergency brake lines and these brackets.

Thanks, that’s about what I figured to do as I figured it was the same for drum brakes. I thought now this was for drums that you drive in reverse and engage emergency brake and I thought it will adjust itself but maybe that’s just for drums?

Way more scattered throughout that shop.

@@ChrisLawley43 there are never enough clamps😳

@@chrisnotchris5258 I agree, trying to convince to let me film his work. He can build anything.

I do wish it was more sturdy and I’ll probably keep a look out for one that is more stable but it will have to do for now.

Thanks 😂

what would need done if to much run out ?

I’m sure, I read good reviews on this model.

Well it only cost me 56 in material as it’s a 800 dollar tool

Yes the inspection card in the box shows it’s most accurate from 15.25 inch pounds on up to 75

Yes they are, In Manafacruring standards they use a lot of Dial tools, to ensure quality even on Philips head screws there's Philips screws for example a car distributor gets a tremendous amount of vibration and they measure the vibration and do some math equations to come up with a good torque spec

Your welcome, it can be used for more than just setting backlash. You can check runout on a shaft.

@@ChrisLawley43 love it that's crazy smart! Could check ur outage on a lathe as well... 🤔 You better believe that things coming home with me tomorrow 😅 thanks again brotha for the knowledge it means alot i feel like sometimes these old timers dont like to see us young dudes learn so legit thank you 🙏

I was concerned about shadows especially hovering over the axle an seems to be none. The width of the beam is quite nice as well, it goes much wider than I thought.

It’s PB blaster “Break free”. About 20 years ago I learned about it in a shop I worked at. I’ve tried many brands and this stuff is easy to get. Kroil is good but sometimes hard to find.

You know you could have issues with the tie rods as well. its best to have someone in the vehicle when you are under it checking for movement in the tie rods. If all that is okay I would remove the steering shaft and feel all the u joints and see how they move, if they move at all. Put it in a vice and feel again for if they are hard to move or if they have play. Depending how old the jeep is that bearing most likely is rusted as well. Changing this steering shaft was really a waste of money because ALL of the suspension needed replacing, as it wear's and sags it changes the geometry of the steering. If the shaft is okay then start looking at suspension parts for your clunk. I'm about to take mine back out because I feel there is excessive play in the steering or its do to I don't drive it a lot. I'm about to upload a lot of footage of all I have done on this jeep like suspension and tie rods. I can't say when I will do the steering shaft as I'm in the process of rebuilding the dana 44 axle I bought for it and a big list of other things.

@@ChrisLawley43 thanks for the tip! I popped off the lower shaft to get to that bearing. It was bone dry and had some surface corrosion. I cleaned it and packed it with wheel bearing grease a couple hours ago and so far that clunk-feel has almost vanished completely. I’d say 90-95% healed. Prob would be 100% if I had a new bearing, but they’re apparently impossible to get.

Ouroboros honestly couldn’t tell you., play with it. Won’t take you long to dial it in. I remember making it pretty hot though..

What School are you at? I went to School for welding back in 2005 and honestly didn't really learn till I practiced at home and learning on the job. Most teachers aren't worth a darn teaching welding.

start/stop solenoid is how it shutdown the motor

You wire it up to the pc board?

@@brendenmiller3636 never used a PC board it's strictly a high idle motor like the red d arcs

When I had the generator end re-done it cost me about $650 to have it steam cleaned, rebaked and rewired. If your armature is bad and I think probably a lot of them probably need rewinding it will cost about 1800 last time I looked. If any of the shunts are bad i think their selling for about 295 or so for two and they have four in there. So you do math and it depends who does the work. Billswelderrepair.com in Oklahoma has everything you need for rebuilding them. I used a local shop down here in Louisiana called Martinez only because they were about 2 hours from me but they will not sell the shunts and all you need from what they told me, they want to do the work. Call Billswelderrepair they will sell all you need if you choose to do the work yourself on the generator end or if you are near Oklahoma city they will rebuild the entire machine if you choose to go that route. I assume you are thinking about buying one and all I can say is it's a gamble, if that machine is running and welding it's still possible the armature is bad yeah I know most are thinking BS well yes it's true. The insulation over time breaks down in the armatures. I personally try and pay no more then 500-1000....I refuse to pay more. I been sitting on a 1955 short hood i need to finish building and sell it, I just simply don't have the time right now. The short-hood they charged a hell of a lot to re-do the generator and I think the reason is because its a shorthood. If anything it should have been less because it had less wires to rewire. So I rambled on here and still didn't give you a straight answer because there is no straight answer. Don't get caught all up in the round generators are all copper wound which is true but you can take that action barrel generator from the 80 and punch out the aluminum shunts and add copper and it will be like the round barrels. Many will argue with me about this but I don't see a difference. Resale value you maybe better with a round barrel generator simply because all the stupid rumors out there.

ChrisLawley thanks for your reply. I have a '79 that I've had for a while now it welds great. I was planning on completely rebuilding and repainting it for a project this coming winter. It was my understanding that pretty much all green lights after 1976 were right back to all copper. The 7307 and one other were the aluminum wire copper covered coils. Either way it will be. tha is for getting back to me so soon I'm sure I'll have more questions down the road. Thanks, Chris

Btw, your machine is slick as glass. I like it, very clean

@@appalachianchopshop1420 it could be after 76 I know I heard for sure the 1979 had copper sorry i shouldn't have thrown 80 in there, I just meant for you and others reading this not to get caught up in all the dam rumors, I've heard some crazy ass stuff out there people have done or heard someone do to a machine. Chris I will have to send you a before picture of this machine it was a real piece of shit when I got it.

I only notice a little bit of play in steering shaft when I put it on a bench vice to see how much play it had in the u-joints, the steering shaft bearing though was freaking SHOT...when I did this I rebuilt steering gear box along with tie rod ends and upper and lower ball joints, doing all this restored the tight factory steering feel again. I need to replace the suspension it's really wore out and i'm sure that will effect the steering and handling of the jeep as well. I've had so much going on lately with no time to change the suspension and debating i may just replace with stock suspension, not sure yet.

Do you know what brand you bought?? I'm pretty sure this was crown automotive parts I used. I'm sorry that you had a ruff fit but thanks for sharing so others will know in the future.

@@ChrisLawley43 I do not know what brand rhet were. They looked exactly like the original.you would think if something would not fit it would have been on the steering box or steering wheel,not where the two part fit together. 30 minutes with a rat tail file and they fit like a glove.

Glad you got it to work, I'm starting to learn the older the jeep gets the parts can't be bought new on some things and some of it is remanufactured. I have a power steering pump I need to change and probably will make a little video on it soon. This will be the third pump from original and the second one I put on not that long ago but it's failed, leaking and not pumping like it should to the gear box. I think I might be able to buy a brand new Mopar pump from rock auto but really don't want to spend over 300 fr the dam thing but I may have to if this one doesn't work.

Brett Forbes yes I did I used stainless. I can’t remember the size so I think what I did was order a few different sizes. I believe I ordered them from Boltdepot.com

Thanks

Thanks

Yes the short upper/intermediate shaft telescope so you can remove the lower shaft if need be.

I used a Kubota v2203DI there's a guy up in MN That's on TH-cam here that will sell you a good used engine or a A cheaper complete engine that needs rebuilding. You want to find one that is a 2001 and newer. Go on Facebook group called Lincoln sa200/250 a guy on my group there sells the adaptors and you can see more pictures of engine and all there. Adapters I bought were a lot more but this guys adapter are just as good of quality but cheaper in price. If you have any questions about my build don't hesitate to ask.

Wgs1955 is his channel or go to Usedkubotaengines.com

You're the best, Thank you for taking the time to reply. I will look into it

No problem, I do know a guy that does these for a living and he said the Kubota is better motor as far as easier to start in cold weather and says it will last longer then say a Yanmar. Kubota is just a easier conversion simply because of how the radiator hoses are there exactly in the same position as the Continental

Thanks, about to start posting about this tiny house build/mancave