The carbon deposit on the piston crown for Castor 927 is the Castor oil itself. Castor gets thick and gummy with heat, the opposite of all other oils. This helps with anti seize in the event of lean running as the gum still has lubricating properties. For saw application it’s not appropriate as eventually the carbon will cost the top of the piston and work into the ring grooves causing the rings to stick. Great video Richard we are highly appreciative of your expert opinion!
Richard i personally want to thank you for your time and effort showing us a better 2t oil for our equipment ive been using my last stash of mobil 1 racing 2t so my next flavor is going to be the Hp2 i like the other oils but the hp2 seems to be an all around good choice for me have a great weekend buddy i swear man if i had you close to me I'd be bringing you a case of suds just to say thank you! Anyhow stay dry out there its been raining 🌧 here in sunnny southern California......Benny
The 9 and the 7 stand for the ratio of petroleum based oil and synthetic natural gas based oil. The 2 stands for the ratio of bean oil. The bean oil is dirty but it creates a better seal for your piston rings to create more power. Motorcycle manufacturers all knew this was the best oil you could get for racing in this country reliably. I was a suspension development rider back in the 80s and early 90s. I also did a good amount of chain sawing. I used 927 and turbo blue in my bikes and chain saws for years. Never had a problem with my saws. Castrol make a 947 oil that many felt was better but it is hard to find in the USA. I can tell you that 927 was used by every factory racing team in the country. They would even put it in other cans that had other manufacturers name on. Each different oil has a good quality. Petroleum based oil runs cooler. Synthetic oil protects better when the engine runs hot. Bean oil makes more power by sealing.
I switched to motorcycle oil after watching Hotsaws101 do an oil video a few years back. It was very informative but it's nice to "see" what he was saying with your demos. Thanks Rich.
Richard, I’ve learned so much about 2T oils from your channel, and I’ve switched from the stihl oil to HP2 and never looking back! The proof is in the pudding!Thanks and keep up the good work!
The absolute best smelling 2 stroke oil IMO! Ran many gallons of fuel mixed 32:1 with 927 over the last couple years in saws, trimmers and blowers. Surprised to see that amount of buildup in just one tank, every saw I've ran on it has stayed pretty clean internally. Now my Husqvarna handheld blower on the other hand... it built up an incredible amount of shiny, hard, black carbon after about a gallon of mix😮 also purchased an Echo srm-2620 last spring, removed cat from muffler after the first tank and ran 927 exclusively in it all season. Pulled muffler and plug this fall to have a look and piston looked beautiful! Just a brown coat on piston crown but zero buildup, same for exhaust port. But the muffler was absolutely disgusting! Not dripping with "spooge" but like it was just hot enough to polymerize the oil at the outlet and bottom. Like hard, sticky tar. While the 927 offers excellent protection, I think ill be staying away from castor containing oils atleast for trimmers and blowers. Will probably still run it in a saw or two, if for no other reason than that killer smell🤪 Thanks again Richard for the time you spend to do all these tests👍🏻 still interested in seeing how aspen 2 compares to motomix/hp ultra. atleast in terms of lubrication😊
Rich, I already have a case of Saber on the shelf, and I have listened to your advice, and I have made the switch. Thanks for all you do to provide truthful information to your views. Thank Again Russell
Another great video. I have bin running Echo Red Armor. I have a bottle of Klotz Benol a friend gave me. It would be great to test that oil. Thanks again for your time you put in testing oils
Thanks for all the time you've put into this series. I recently tried some Klotz Super Techniplate and after three tanks or so, I had some "goo" forming on the muffler. I reckon I'll use up my last few ounces of Red Armor then try the Motul 800. Anywho, thanks again.
The 927 is dirty. No argument from me there. It really, IMO, makes a difference with how many gallons per year you run and if you’re WOT or on and off the throttle. I started using the motorcycle oil many years ago when I got a huge load of big cherry and oak in the summer. I saw a container and thought if it’s holds up in an air cooled dirt bike it should work great in a saw and never looked back. I did pick up a pint of HP2 to use in my new to me Homelite based on your testing Richard. And it works great! Thank you for doing these tests! We all learn from them.
Nah, 927 is what ya run in your bike for racing if you are gonna tear it down afterwards. In a chainsaw application, I have found it will coat the top of the piston long before the 100hr mark. But dear lord it smells like donuts. Who doesn't like donuts?! Thanks again for the great work you do, Richard!
Yeah that’s typical caster, it’s dirty burning and designed with the intension of the engine being torn down frequently and cleaned. Not a good OPE oil and not necessary imo. Thanks as always for bringing us along :)
Hey Richard, thanks for all your videos! I'm from the dirt bike originally and saw the world professionally, and personally, I've been hearing stellar reviews about the lucas FD semi synthetic. Some riders are claiming 500hrs and showing pictures of near new looking cylinders with lucas, some people are suggesting the JASO FD + *SEMI* synthetic is the winning formula. I've personally noticed it's a rare combo in oils but there's some local (to me) Australian manufacturers making such oils and I'm curious if there's truth to this theory. Can't wait to see the next video! I can't say I'm not hoping for a pleasant surprise but I know ill get the facts and no bs from you! Thanks again mate! Your helping us all out.
That turned out like i suspected. Over a bunch of time the 927 really builds the carbon. I saw Jake's tear down and nothing wrong with the Bel Ray and being a production faller his saws get alot of idle time also. It was a good tear down i thought! Thanks for all you do Richard.
Thanks very much for your time and efforts Richard, this has been interesting. HP2 to me is the clear winner. Love to use it, but at $90 a quart here, Sabre is it. That 927 surprised me how dirty it is, after just one tank, too. To throw a spanner in the works, is there still 2 stroke snowmobile oil??....lol
You should make a google doc and link it to your oil videos description so you can keep updating it over time with your personal ranking of best oil for lubrication and price.
I just looked up the specs on this oil and it is in SAE 40 grade range at 212 Fahrenheit with it‘s flashpoint 424 Fahrenheit. I believe Schaeffer‘s 7000 is SAE 20 and 218 Fahrenheit flashpoint simply for comparison. Good information👍
Bean oil was popular in the 70's for MX. I remember fouling being an issue. I like 110 leaded with VP or Redline 50:1. Remove carbon from the sparky with a tooth brush. I have yet to check carbon on the piston 'cause they run great.
I’ve been using Motul 800 in my 066 and 200T, works great. I bought a bottle of Belray H1R but haven’t tried it yet but I used to run it in my old YZ 250s and it was great.
Thanks for getting the 927 test in. Results are what I expected, was hoping it would be a bit cleaner in the mtronic saw but nope. I love 927, the smell is just amazing but I had to finally pull my 390XP apart I believe it was last year and clean up the piston and all cause it was coked on carbon pretty good. I switched to Maxima Formula K2, doesn't smell nearly as good but burns alot cleaner.
@@matticus6339 thanks for the reply. I have a 43cc Zenoah engine which I hope will be driving an emergency generator for charging batteries, and am planning to run ~ 28 to 1, with a rich non-ethanol mix. I do not wish to stick the engine, hence substantial caution. Note this isn’t one of the really screamy engines, e.g. the RCxxx ones. The manufacturer calls for 40 to 1, but that scares me.
@@dennisyoung4631 You shouldnt have any issues with K2. I mix at 32:1 and no issues. The only thing I wish, is that Maxima would put a bit more dye in it. But I mix as soon as I get gas home from the store so I don't mess up. Don't get me wrong, K2 is dyed but its not as strong a dye as some brands.
I use Castrol POWER1 RACING 2T... JASO FD fully synthetic mix ratios betweer 1% and 2%... I always mix 2% and use it in all makes and models of 2T machinery. No smoke!
I've bought Bel-Ray MC-1 by the case from 1978 to this day for my 2st offroad racebikes , the last 24 yrs l've had an Echo string trimmer , leaf blower & a chainsaw , 100% of the time l mix up Echo power blend gold but when l'm out & l have a jug of MC-1 at 50-1 made up for the KTM l don't hesitate to use it to get the job done .
I've been using Supertech TCW3 Marine 2 stroke oil. Everyone swears I'll blow up my saws. But so far everything is happy. All the equipment I take care of is ethanol free gas 40:1 with the TCW3. $20 A GALLON too. And Walmart carries it.
Just a thought you could always mix a little bit of Marvel mystery oil in with your oil and gas that should dye it a little bit and should take care of burning off that sticky residue on the top of the piston
Im waiting on a part for my 500i. I look forward to seeing what you do. My ripsaw 500i runs better/ cooler. I’m looking for a machinist and the understanding of why and how much to cut on a cylinder. Also I wonder if you would do a build for me and how I would reach you. I’m a climber, super busy, have 4 kids, and my saws are very important. I had a hyway sir clip fail on my 261 and destroyed the motor. I happen to have put one of those in my oem 661 build so I’ll be fixing that today!!
one thing I noticed when running my gallon or two of Benol mixed gas in my 2 strokes each year, is that weeks or months later I get a little whiff of the bean oil smell as its deposits get cleaned out by the other ester based oils I run.
I’ve been mixing HP2 with 927 or k2 at 50:1 for a couple of years now, mainly just to give my fuel some color. Seems to be working fine. Is mixing oil a good idea or not? I might start running hp2 exclusively when I run out of 927 & k2. Thanks
Klutz has a oil that is 50 % synthetic and 50% castor oil. I think you will like it. Dupond makes a tripple cleaned bean oil that is the cleanest burning castor oil available
I used to run MX2T, no dye in that stuff either. More than once I double dosed a gas can because I thought I'd already added oil, but not 100% sure. Could tell by the exhaust smell afterwards that I'd double dosed. Fine with me, that's cheap insurance. Running 16:1 is a whole lot better than running 128:0.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. Can you make i video with CASTROL POWER 1 RACING 2T? I run this oil in my trials motorcycle and im curious to se how it compare to the other bike oils you have tested.
And with Castrol POWER1 RACING 2T there is no carbon build up at all... Few months ago I had to chsnge the exhaust on my old MS230 from 2005 because it fell apart. Exhaust port clesn, no build up. Only a slightly coated with ash, on touch stays on fingers, piston and cylinder look beautiful. The film of oil is nice and shiny.
@@nikolaigordon My machines are like brand new... MS230 piston, rings and cylinder look perfect. Made in 2005 I can still lift it by pull starter. So strong compression... FS120 since 2016 heavy duty all the time still perfect. Running my new MS311 for a year on that mix too...
Richard keep a look on Rocky Mountain ATV for the HP2. I wait untill its on sale. If you spend $75 you'll get free shipping, it's on sale for 10.99 and regular 14.42. The last time I bought 2 case's it was $7.50. About 3 years ago I was looking for a better oil than the Stihl Ultra. After reading Dragon Fly's data and watching Redbull661's Honda HP2 teardown video I decided on the HP2 over everything else. One thing for sure with the "Smurf Blood" there is no question you have mixed gas. Another thing I do to help prevent "straight gassing" my 2 strokes. I bought the blue kerosene fuel cans for my mixed fuel. If someone is helping me load up stuff it's easier to just say "grab the blue jugs" and it's a piece of mind without questioning or double checking.
So what would be your pick between Honda HP2 and Amsoil Saber? While I don’t put much time on my saw, I run my three vintage Lawn-Boy mowers, a couple trimmers, and a leaf blower quite a bit when the weather breaks.
Any thoughts on winter VS summer us for bike oils. Id assume most people aren't running bikes in winter, so are manufacturers taking into consideration everything winter wise? And what about ski doo oil? Lol I'd assume that stuff isn't designed for summer use. I'm in Canada but not real cold part east coast like maine weather or new England. Hovers around 32f in winter and 50-70 faranheit most of year. Humid damp. Windy lol I'm milling mostly small stuff 7 to 20 inches. 462. We always ran stihl premium for years in concrete saws as masonry contractor. Never really had many issues everyday for few years cut cut cut. You'd have to mess with a little after few years but still good enough for side jobs or home owner
Great tests for sure. Wonder how maxima super m would do in a saw. Or even klotz snowmobile there both jaso fd, api tc, and iso egd. Ive been running vp but sure is pricey long term.
Are you able to get it in the pint bottle with the built in measuring cup? It's a little cheaper than the premeasured bottles. Be nice if they sold it by the quart without the fancy bottle.
@@richardflagg3084 yeah I get it in the one with the measuring cup but I wish they sold it by the gallon. I usually buy oil buy the gallon or atleast half gallons so I have it stocked for a long time.
Hey I'm right there with you on the k2 wish they would put some dye in it! Because that's what I run it takes blue aviation fuel and turns it like old brown stale gas color almost at 32:1 40:1 mix is what I run in ALL my ported saws or stock saws. BUT YOU HAVE TO KNOW THAT IT'S MIXED SO I PUT IN GRAPE SCENTED STUFF IN MY FUEL!!!
Honda recommends running the hb2 at 32:1 and my chainsaw recommends a mix of 50:1 and i want to use the hb2 after seeing your results should i use the hb2 how honda says (32:1) or mix it how my chainsaw manufacturer says (50:1) . Great videos btw. Thank you friend
I've only tested Schaeffers 7000 as it was my go to oil for years. It's a TC-W3 oil and really does a nice job in regards to lubrication and clean burning.
While 927 is great oil, it does leave too much residue which ends up sticking the rings, I sold a perfect KX60 dirt bike to a friend for his kid to race, it seized up horribly and he tore it down, he started complaining to me about what I sold him, he was using 927, the rings were stuck tight. Bean oil has always had this reputation and is one of the toughest lubricants available, but it's pretty much meant for racing applications where teardowns are often, I use it still but never in a saw or blower, I'd stick with the Motul, HP2 or non-castor Maxima.
If someone is going to use 927 and they're in the know, I'd imagine you'd have to be willing to do a teardown/inspection on a regular basis. At the very least run some practice rounds and testing with a cleaner burning oil with a good detergent package. Hard to argue the lubrication properties of castor tho. It's just not for everyone.
Thanks for another good test Richard. I'm kinda surprised that the top of the piston was that carbon'd up after 1 tank? Seems to be a popular mix oil amongst the chainsaw folks....
I know they advertise it as cleaning it up. Would be good to run in the Lynch 660 and the Super Dave 620 without the screen. If more heat is better for that fuel, I wonder if the stock 562XP would really like it since they run so darn hot? Maybe the carbon would not deposit so quickly especially with the stock muffler? hmmmm@@aaronpowell4885
@@oakiewoodsman one way to find out! Run a tank or 2, pull plug and peek in cylinder. 927 has left no deposits in my g660 or ported 590. I will not say it's the be all end all oil and is definitely overkill for all but the rowdyest saws, I believe every 2t enthusiast should atleast experience a tankfull of castor mix, whether they end up loving or hating it🤪
What channel/video, I'd like to see that. More (high quality) oil/lubrication means less friction and ultimately less heat regardless if it's a two stroke of four stroke. I've definitely noticed a heat reduction running Honda HP2 in a traditional carbureted chainsaw at 40:1.
It's one of the few family owned auto parts stores left in my area. Hell, they still have hundreds of pounds of paper parts catalogs on the side counter. The owner is there everyday and in his seventies and still works his ass off. Everyone that works there is very knowledgeable and you can't beat their pricing.
I promise, if you're open minded Saber burns cleaner than Dominator and doesn't sacrifice lubrication. If you're running hand held equipment it's the better of the two. Buy a bottle and test it.
Used MC1+ in the weedeater at 32 to 1. Turned out both needles some, just like I’d been told back in the late seventies at a saw shop. Had a little smoke when cold, to tell me I hadn’t forgotten the oil. It worked good in that postage stamp of a yard…
Your fuel your ran with the 927 is the carbon. Ive never seen what you showed after only one tank. We have zero carbon on our power valves with years of running 927
Opti2 and Saber look the same, smell the same and act the same with performance. I have been using Opti2 for many years and the results are the same. I used to be in the oil packaging business so they may even be the same.
The base oils for Opti are lower quality and relatively thin. The viscosity they get is from additives, hence why they suggest a ratio of around 60-70:1. While I have yet to personally test Opti, the handful of people that are truly educated about 2T oils discourage the use of Opti. I have years of experience with Saber and can't say anything bad about it besides 80:1 is too skinny to run long term. Saber still burns clean at 40:1 unlike users of Opti have mentioned when they tried to mix it at 50:1 and had issues. One of these days I'll test it and can speak first hand about it.
Amsoil saber is damn good oil that's for sure BUT DON'T mix at any 100:1 BS!! Not sure what they use for fuel stabilizer but whatever it is it's DAMN good stuff I've personally left winter blended ethanol fuel in my personal saws for 4yrs YES 4YRS!! Went out fired them up and went to cutting firewood with no carburetor problems! But my personal experience with amsoil mixed at 32:1 or 40:1 I don't see the oil film coverage like I do with the Maxima Formula K2!
Amsoil saber is damn good oil that's for sure BUT DON'T mix at any 100:1 BS!! Not sure what they use for fuel stabilizer but whatever it is it's DAMN good stuff I've personally left winter blended ethanol fuel in my personal saws for 4yrs YES 4YRS!! Went out fired them up and went to cutting firewood with no carburetor problems! But my personal experience with amsoil mixed at 32:1 or 40:1 I don't see the oil film coverage like I do with the Maxima Formula K2!
My nitro rc engines use nitro methane and castor oil. And thoes engines turn 20.000 rpm. And the run around 230 degrees f. I would like to see that fuel in a chainsaw.
Most rc fuels today use a mostly synthetic oil mix. In the old rc days(before the 90s) castor oil was the go-to choice for fuel blender because its one of the only oils (especially at the time) that will mix with methanol and nitromethane. Also using that fuel in a chainsaw would require a highly modified carburetor because you pretty much need at least triple the fuel volume to keep the engine running properly and would not be worth all the trouble especially since the fuel is highly corrosive and very expensive.
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The carbon deposit on the piston crown for Castor 927 is the Castor oil itself. Castor gets thick and gummy with heat, the opposite of all other oils.
This helps with anti seize in the event of lean running as the gum still has lubricating properties.
For saw application it’s not appropriate as eventually the carbon will cost the top of the piston and work into the ring grooves causing the rings to stick.
Great video Richard we are highly appreciative of your expert opinion!
Will water decarbonization work for saws?
Richard i personally want to thank you for your time and effort showing us a better 2t oil for our equipment ive been using my last stash of mobil 1 racing 2t so my next flavor is going to be the Hp2 i like the other oils but the hp2 seems to be an all around good choice for me have a great weekend buddy i swear man if i had you close to me I'd be bringing you a case of suds just to say thank you! Anyhow stay dry out there its been raining 🌧 here in sunnny southern California......Benny
Buy the saws while you can in SoCal with the new idiotic law Newsom signed.
The 9 and the 7 stand for the ratio of petroleum based oil and synthetic natural gas based oil. The 2 stands for the ratio of bean oil. The bean oil is dirty but it creates a better seal for your piston rings to create more power. Motorcycle manufacturers all knew this was the best oil you could get for racing in this country reliably. I was a suspension development rider back in the 80s and early 90s. I also did a good amount of chain sawing. I used 927 and turbo blue in my bikes and chain saws for years. Never had a problem with my saws. Castrol make a 947 oil that many felt was better but it is hard to find in the USA. I can tell you that 927 was used by every factory racing team in the country. They would even put it in other cans that had other manufacturers name on. Each different oil has a good quality. Petroleum based oil runs cooler. Synthetic oil protects better when the engine runs hot. Bean oil makes more power by sealing.
I switched to motorcycle oil after watching Hotsaws101 do an oil video a few years back. It was very informative but it's nice to "see" what he was saying with your demos. Thanks Rich.
Ya know Stihl mix IS Castrol Go. Maybe dig a little deeper.
Thabka for doing these tests, i appreciate the time it takes 🙌
Again, I really like your videos. They are very informative and to the point along with a good presentation style.
You’re doin a fine job and I look forward to seeing all your work. The oil test was fun.
Richard, I’ve learned so much about 2T oils from your channel, and I’ve switched from the stihl oil to HP2 and never looking back! The proof is in the pudding!Thanks and keep up the good work!
I did too, I use the Amsoil Saber now.
Do you run the hp2 at 32:1 ?
@@agpicker481 40:1
Great video!!! I’ve ran 927 for years. The bike oil’s definitely are the way to go. Thank you for all the awesome videos!
Great video! Lots of interesting information here. I sure appreciate you going through all of this effort.good stuff
The absolute best smelling 2 stroke oil IMO! Ran many gallons of fuel mixed 32:1 with 927 over the last couple years in saws, trimmers and blowers. Surprised to see that amount of buildup in just one tank, every saw I've ran on it has stayed pretty clean internally. Now my Husqvarna handheld blower on the other hand... it built up an incredible amount of shiny, hard, black carbon after about a gallon of mix😮 also purchased an Echo srm-2620 last spring, removed cat from muffler after the first tank and ran 927 exclusively in it all season. Pulled muffler and plug this fall to have a look and piston looked beautiful! Just a brown coat on piston crown but zero buildup, same for exhaust port. But the muffler was absolutely disgusting! Not dripping with "spooge" but like it was just hot enough to polymerize the oil at the outlet and bottom. Like hard, sticky tar. While the 927 offers excellent protection, I think ill be staying away from castor containing oils atleast for trimmers and blowers. Will probably still run it in a saw or two, if for no other reason than that killer smell🤪
Thanks again Richard for the time you spend to do all these tests👍🏻 still interested in seeing how aspen 2 compares to motomix/hp ultra. atleast in terms of lubrication😊
Thanks for sharing this.
Rich, I already have a case of Saber on the shelf, and I have listened to your advice, and I have made the switch.
Thanks for all you do to provide truthful information to your views. Thank Again Russell
Another great video. I have bin running Echo Red Armor. I have a bottle of Klotz Benol a friend gave me. It would be great to test that oil. Thanks again for your time you put in testing oils
Thanks for all the time you've put into this series. I recently tried some Klotz Super Techniplate and after three tanks or so, I had some "goo" forming on the muffler. I reckon I'll use up my last few ounces of Red Armor then try the Motul 800. Anywho, thanks again.
The 927 is dirty. No argument from me there. It really, IMO, makes a difference with how many gallons per year you run and if you’re WOT or on and off the throttle. I started using the motorcycle oil many years ago when I got a huge load of big cherry and oak in the summer. I saw a container and thought if it’s holds up in an air cooled dirt bike it should work great in a saw and never looked back.
I did pick up a pint of HP2 to use in my new to me Homelite based on your testing Richard. And it works great! Thank you for doing these tests! We all learn from them.
Nah, 927 is what ya run in your bike for racing if you are gonna tear it down afterwards. In a chainsaw application, I have found it will coat the top of the piston long before the 100hr mark. But dear lord it smells like donuts. Who doesn't like donuts?! Thanks again for the great work you do, Richard!
Smells like the Kart track!
Nice job Richard. ❤
Yeah that’s typical caster, it’s dirty burning and designed with the intension of the engine being torn down frequently and cleaned. Not a good OPE oil and not necessary imo. Thanks as always for bringing us along :)
Hey Richard, thanks for all your videos! I'm from the dirt bike originally and saw the world professionally, and personally, I've been hearing stellar reviews about the lucas FD semi synthetic. Some riders are claiming 500hrs and showing pictures of near new looking cylinders with lucas, some people are suggesting the JASO FD + *SEMI* synthetic is the winning formula. I've personally noticed it's a rare combo in oils but there's some local (to me) Australian manufacturers making such oils and I'm curious if there's truth to this theory. Can't wait to see the next video! I can't say I'm not hoping for a pleasant surprise but I know ill get the facts and no bs from you! Thanks again mate! Your helping us all out.
That turned out like i suspected. Over a bunch of time the 927 really builds the carbon. I saw Jake's tear down and nothing wrong with the Bel Ray and being a production faller his saws get alot of idle time also. It was a good tear down i thought! Thanks for all you do Richard.
Interesting stuff for sure
Fantastic comparison! 😃👍
Thanks for sharing all this info with us. That piston looked a little scary for only 1 tank.
Good video, it’s what I expected to see from a castor oil. I have used it, but prefer the cleaner oils; saber, 800 2t, h1r
Thanks very much for your time and efforts Richard, this has been interesting. HP2 to me is the clear winner. Love to use it, but at $90 a quart here, Sabre is it. That 927 surprised me how dirty it is, after just one tank, too.
To throw a spanner in the works, is there still 2 stroke snowmobile oil??....lol
I would like to see how all those oils react to heat. Castor should stay liquid to around 450⁰F. It is an amazing high temperature lubricant.
You should make a google doc and link it to your oil videos description so you can keep updating it over time with your personal ranking of best oil for lubrication and price.
I'm a simple man and low tech. These videos are a work in progress. We'll see where the next year takes us.
i have been running lucas semi plenty long enough to say that it is excellent from what i can tell
I just looked up the specs on this oil and it is in SAE 40 grade range at 212 Fahrenheit with it‘s flashpoint 424 Fahrenheit. I believe Schaeffer‘s 7000 is SAE 20 and 218 Fahrenheit flashpoint simply for comparison. Good information👍
Bean oil was popular in the 70's for MX. I remember fouling being an issue. I like 110 leaded with VP or Redline 50:1. Remove carbon from the sparky with a tooth brush. I have yet to check carbon on the piston 'cause they run great.
Good work .
TTS is good oil it now called castrol power 1racing 2T.
Love the science. AND GOOD old shop.
Low tech science on this channel.
I’ve been using Motul 800 in my 066 and 200T, works great. I bought a bottle of Belray H1R but haven’t tried it yet but I used to run it in my old YZ 250s and it was great.
Thanks for getting the 927 test in. Results are what I expected, was hoping it would be a bit cleaner in the mtronic saw but nope. I love 927, the smell is just amazing but I had to finally pull my 390XP apart I believe it was last year and clean up the piston and all cause it was coked on carbon pretty good. I switched to Maxima Formula K2, doesn't smell nearly as good but burns alot cleaner.
Thanks for this information sharing
How does the K2 run in your saw?
@@dennisyoung4631 K2 runs awesome. Clean burning oil.
@@matticus6339 thanks for the reply. I have a 43cc Zenoah engine which I hope will be driving an emergency generator for charging batteries, and am planning to run ~ 28 to 1, with a rich non-ethanol mix. I do not wish to stick the engine, hence substantial caution.
Note this isn’t one of the really screamy engines, e.g. the RCxxx ones. The manufacturer calls for 40 to 1, but that scares me.
@@dennisyoung4631 You shouldnt have any issues with K2. I mix at 32:1 and no issues. The only thing I wish, is that Maxima would put a bit more dye in it. But I mix as soon as I get gas home from the store so I don't mess up. Don't get me wrong, K2 is dyed but its not as strong a dye as some brands.
I use Castrol POWER1 RACING 2T...
JASO FD fully synthetic mix ratios betweer 1% and 2%...
I always mix 2% and use it in all makes and models of 2T machinery. No smoke!
Not bad but I was expecting more from 927. Thanks for another great video
Thanks Cuz!
Can you do a test with klotz R-50
I've bought Bel-Ray MC-1 by the case from 1978 to this day for my 2st offroad racebikes , the last 24 yrs l've had an Echo string trimmer , leaf blower & a chainsaw , 100% of the time l mix up Echo power blend gold but when l'm out & l have a jug of MC-1 at 50-1 made up for the KTM l don't hesitate to use it to get the job done .
I've been using Supertech TCW3 Marine 2 stroke oil. Everyone swears I'll blow up my saws. But so far everything is happy. All the equipment I take care of is ethanol free gas 40:1 with the TCW3. $20 A GALLON too. And Walmart carries it.
I was told when I showed pictures of my old cylinder that it barely looked broken in. Good I've been doing exactly what you told me not to do.
Just a thought you could always mix a little bit of Marvel mystery oil in with your oil and gas that should dye it a little bit and should take care of burning off that sticky residue on the top of the piston
Im waiting on a part for my 500i. I look forward to seeing what you do. My ripsaw 500i runs better/ cooler. I’m looking for a machinist and the understanding of why and how much to cut on a cylinder. Also I wonder if you would do a build for me and how I would reach you. I’m a climber, super busy, have 4 kids, and my saws are very important. I had a hyway sir clip fail on my 261 and destroyed the motor. I happen to have put one of those in my oem 661 build so I’ll be fixing that today!!
one thing I noticed when running my gallon or two of Benol mixed gas in my 2 strokes each year, is that weeks or months later I get a little whiff of the bean oil smell as its deposits get cleaned out by the other ester based oils I run.
@ Richard Flagg You should test Klotz r50 would be great too see the difference with it being full synthetic and usa made
Rich nice and informative.❤❤❤
Shell advance ultra 2t has the same appearance mixed with gas and the smell kinda sting the nostrils but it is very good with good oil film.
I’ve been mixing HP2 with 927 or k2 at 50:1 for a couple of years now, mainly just to give my fuel some color. Seems to be working fine. Is mixing oil a good idea or not? I might start running hp2 exclusively when I run out of 927 & k2. Thanks
Would love to see you run some Maxima Super M through a saw to see how it works, been using it in my bikes/quads for years and love it
This is a good video
Klutz has a oil that is 50 % synthetic and 50% castor oil. I think you will like it. Dupond makes a tripple cleaned bean oil that is the cleanest burning castor oil available
I used to run MX2T, no dye in that stuff either. More than once I double dosed a gas can because I thought I'd already added oil, but not 100% sure. Could tell by the exhaust smell afterwards that I'd double dosed. Fine with me, that's cheap insurance. Running 16:1 is a whole lot better than running 128:0.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. Can you make i video with CASTROL POWER 1 RACING 2T? I run this oil in my trials motorcycle and im curious to se how it compare to the other bike oils you have tested.
And with Castrol POWER1 RACING 2T there is no carbon build up at all...
Few months ago I had to chsnge the exhaust on my old MS230 from 2005 because it fell apart. Exhaust port clesn, no build up. Only a slightly coated with ash, on touch stays on fingers, piston and cylinder look beautiful. The film of oil is nice and shiny.
Yes castrol power 1 racing 2T good oil. My 500i going good on that oil .
@@nikolaigordon My machines are like brand new... MS230 piston, rings and cylinder look perfect. Made in 2005 I can still lift it by pull starter. So strong compression...
FS120 since 2016 heavy duty all the time still perfect. Running my new MS311 for a year on that mix too...
Just a question whatever your thoughts on snowmobile oils . Was think about all the cutters in the colder climates ?
Richard keep a look on Rocky Mountain ATV for the HP2. I wait untill its on sale. If you spend $75 you'll get free shipping, it's on sale for 10.99 and regular 14.42. The last time I bought 2 case's it was $7.50.
About 3 years ago I was looking for a better oil than the Stihl Ultra. After reading Dragon Fly's data and watching Redbull661's Honda HP2 teardown video I decided on the HP2 over everything else.
One thing for sure with the "Smurf Blood" there is no question you have mixed gas.
Another thing I do to help prevent "straight gassing" my 2 strokes. I bought the blue kerosene fuel cans for my mixed fuel. If someone is helping me load up stuff it's easier to just say "grab the blue jugs" and it's a piece of mind without questioning or double checking.
Hey Richard, I was curious what ratio you went with for this test with the 927? Thank you, enjoyed the video
Hi Richard, what gasoline do you use in these tests? And can you please test out the Aspen 2 premix fuel. Thanks for the informative info.
Would like to see yamalube 2r and maxima k2
Is aspen2 any good? And can I run it in a ported 500i? Just asking.
So what would be your pick between Honda HP2 and Amsoil Saber? While I don’t put much time on my saw, I run my three vintage Lawn-Boy mowers, a couple trimmers, and a leaf blower quite a bit when the weather breaks.
You can't go wrong with either one.
Saber must have fallen of the bench!!!
Nope. I do forget to mention it tho. Saber is a damn fine oil and burns squeaky clean.
I used Lucas for a while and found it to be very dirty. So far I have been impressed with Echo Red Armor, other than its price.
Couple days ago I seen a gallon jug 128 OZ of red armor for around 50 clams at that jungle place.
@@tughillplateau2129 so it is and one really can't complain about that price if it does the job, as it seems to do.
Would you choose HP2 Honda over the AMSOIL Saber? thanks
Any thoughts on winter VS summer us for bike oils. Id assume most people aren't running bikes in winter, so are manufacturers taking into consideration everything winter wise? And what about ski doo oil? Lol I'd assume that stuff isn't designed for summer use.
I'm in Canada but not real cold part east coast like maine weather or new England. Hovers around 32f in winter and 50-70 faranheit most of year. Humid damp. Windy lol
I'm milling mostly small stuff 7 to 20 inches. 462. We always ran stihl premium for years in concrete saws as masonry contractor. Never really had many issues everyday for few years cut cut cut. You'd have to mess with a little after few years but still good enough for side jobs or home owner
Great tests for sure. Wonder how maxima super m would do in a saw. Or even klotz snowmobile there both jaso fd, api tc, and iso egd. Ive been running vp but sure is pricey long term.
Are you able to get it in the pint bottle with the built in measuring cup? It's a little cheaper than the premeasured bottles. Be nice if they sold it by the quart without the fancy bottle.
@@richardflagg3084 yeah I get it in the one with the measuring cup but I wish they sold it by the gallon. I usually buy oil buy the gallon or atleast half gallons so I have it stocked for a long time.
Oh, good. It has a little smoke at the beginning. “Thank God I didn’t forget the oil!”
Im curious about Klotz benol oil i run their R50 with no issues also have had good results with the AMSOIL dominator oil
927 is dirty castor oil. But works very good. It will carbon your saw up tho been there done that
Is there a Klotz BeNol test in the future?
Yes the maximum k2 is like light gold ..can barley tell its mixed.i got scared even though i mixed it 40to 1..
Hey I'm right there with you on the k2 wish they would put some dye in it! Because that's what I run it takes blue aviation fuel and turns it like old brown stale gas color almost at 32:1 40:1 mix is what I run in ALL my ported saws or stock saws. BUT YOU HAVE TO KNOW THAT IT'S MIXED SO I PUT IN GRAPE SCENTED STUFF IN MY FUEL!!!
you can seasoning a cast iron skillet with this oil
Can you test klotz 50 1 specifically designed for air cooled small engines?
Aluma Brite for anything aluminum. But it needs to be buffed afterwards
I’d like to see what you think of the maximum k2 oil it’s a triple ester
I run it..and also red armor..
Before I ran mostly vp and redarmor...but vp is husky high in price. Like moto
Honda recommends running the hb2 at 32:1 and my chainsaw recommends a mix of 50:1 and i want to use the hb2 after seeing your results should i use the hb2 how honda says (32:1) or mix it how my chainsaw manufacturer says (50:1) . Great videos btw. Thank you friend
I tested it at 40:1 and it did great.
Would you test opti2 oil
What is your personal choice of oil? Just curious to what you use.
in no particular order, Schaeffers 7000, Saber, HP2,
Many thanks. Motul 710 for a test please
Would like to know what kind of gasoline was used also.i think that’s important in the evaluation of the oil also.nobody pays much attention to that.
89 octane non-ethanol
Have you tried outboard oil. I'd be interested in that test. Quick silver or pen zoil 2 stroke outboard oil.
I've only tested Schaeffers 7000 as it was my go to oil for years. It's a TC-W3 oil and really does a nice job in regards to lubrication and clean burning.
While 927 is great oil, it does leave too much residue which ends up sticking the rings, I sold a perfect KX60 dirt bike to a friend for his kid to race, it seized up horribly and he tore it down, he started complaining to me about what I sold him, he was using 927, the rings were stuck tight. Bean oil has always had this reputation and is one of the toughest lubricants available, but it's pretty much meant for racing applications where teardowns are often, I use it still but never in a saw or blower, I'd stick with the Motul, HP2 or non-castor Maxima.
If someone is going to use 927 and they're in the know, I'd imagine you'd have to be willing to do a teardown/inspection on a regular basis. At the very least run some practice rounds and testing with a cleaner burning oil with a good detergent package. Hard to argue the lubrication properties of castor tho. It's just not for everyone.
Thanks for another good test Richard. I'm kinda surprised that the top of the piston was that carbon'd up after 1 tank? Seems to be a popular mix oil amongst the chainsaw folks....
Me too
Shocking and kinda a bummer considering how nice and shiny everything was.
@@oakiewoodsman red armor sure does quickly clean up the "castor goo" tho, if ya wanted to mix up a gallon of 927 every now and then😉
I know they advertise it as cleaning it up. Would be good to run in the Lynch 660 and the Super Dave 620 without the screen. If more heat is better for that fuel, I wonder if the stock 562XP would really like it since they run so darn hot? Maybe the carbon would not deposit so quickly especially with the stock muffler? hmmmm@@aaronpowell4885
@@oakiewoodsman one way to find out! Run a tank or 2, pull plug and peek in cylinder. 927 has left no deposits in my g660 or ported 590. I will not say it's the be all end all oil and is definitely overkill for all but the rowdyest saws, I believe every 2t enthusiast should atleast experience a tankfull of castor mix, whether they end up loving or hating it🤪
And yamalube 2R 👍
Have you done any Klotz oils? Love me some Klotz
Techniplate specifically?
927 is more money than amsoil saber, without the fuel stabilization..... why change? I'm gonna stick with amsoil
Love that smell.
I've seen a test 40to1 vs 50 to 1. And they showed more oil led to more heat. Can you test that if interested.
What channel/video, I'd like to see that. More (high quality) oil/lubrication means less friction and ultimately less heat regardless if it's a two stroke of four stroke. I've definitely noticed a heat reduction running Honda HP2 in a traditional carbureted chainsaw at 40:1.
@@richardflagg3084 I think it was called Dave's small engine
I'm gonna shop where you shop! I'm buying that Lucas for 15/quart! I'm pretty satisfied with my lucas....
It's one of the few family owned auto parts stores left in my area. Hell, they still have hundreds of pounds of paper parts catalogs on the side counter. The owner is there everyday and in his seventies and still works his ass off. Everyone that works there is very knowledgeable and you can't beat their pricing.
Why 2,5% instead of 2%??????
Wake up and smell the 927
tried motul yet?
Quicksilver premium plus
Im watching all these videos trying to find something better than dominator. Its not happening. Lol
I promise, if you're open minded Saber burns cleaner than Dominator and doesn't sacrifice lubrication. If you're running hand held equipment it's the better of the two. Buy a bottle and test it.
Bel ray MC1
Used MC1+ in the weedeater at 32 to 1. Turned out both needles some, just like I’d been told back in the late seventies at a saw shop.
Had a little smoke when cold, to tell me I hadn’t forgotten the oil.
It worked good in that postage stamp of a yard…
Can you test ELf oil?
How about Smurf oil?
Oven cleaner works great for carbon removal
Your fuel your ran with the 927 is the carbon. Ive never seen what you showed after only one tank. We have zero carbon on our power valves with years of running 927
The H1R looks better and that black stuff on the top of the piston is why I don’t like the Castrol
Opti2 and Saber look the same, smell the same and act the same with performance. I have been using Opti2 for many years and the results are the same. I used to be in the oil packaging business so they may even be the same.
The base oils for Opti are lower quality and relatively thin. The viscosity they get is from additives, hence why they suggest a ratio of around 60-70:1. While I have yet to personally test Opti, the handful of people that are truly educated about 2T oils discourage the use of Opti. I have years of experience with Saber and can't say anything bad about it besides 80:1 is too skinny to run long term. Saber still burns clean at 40:1 unlike users of Opti have mentioned when they tried to mix it at 50:1 and had issues. One of these days I'll test it and can speak first hand about it.
Klotz super techniplate? Its great stuff and is 20% castor oil i believe
Stilh HP ULTRA is only JASO FB...
Very bad and very expensive oil...
Hands down Amsoil Saber is the BEST
It is a damn fine oil.
Amsoil saber is damn good oil that's for sure BUT DON'T mix at any 100:1 BS!! Not sure what they use for fuel stabilizer but whatever it is it's DAMN good stuff I've personally left winter blended ethanol fuel in my personal saws for 4yrs YES 4YRS!! Went out fired them up and went to cutting firewood with no carburetor problems! But my personal experience with amsoil mixed at 32:1 or 40:1 I don't see the oil film coverage like I do with the Maxima Formula K2!
Amsoil saber is damn good oil that's for sure BUT DON'T mix at any 100:1 BS!! Not sure what they use for fuel stabilizer but whatever it is it's DAMN good stuff I've personally left winter blended ethanol fuel in my personal saws for 4yrs YES 4YRS!! Went out fired them up and went to cutting firewood with no carburetor problems! But my personal experience with amsoil mixed at 32:1 or 40:1 I don't see the oil film coverage like I do with the Maxima Formula K2!
My nitro rc engines use nitro methane and castor oil. And thoes engines turn 20.000 rpm. And the run around 230 degrees f. I would like to see that fuel in a chainsaw.
Most rc fuels today use a mostly synthetic oil mix. In the old rc days(before the 90s) castor oil was the go-to choice for fuel blender because its one of the only oils (especially at the time) that will mix with methanol and nitromethane. Also using that fuel in a chainsaw would require a highly modified carburetor because you pretty much need at least triple the fuel volume to keep the engine running properly and would not be worth all the trouble especially since the fuel is highly corrosive and very expensive.