I love a sport where the best in the world is doing it wrong. A clear sign that there is room for diversity and that there is still a lot to be discovered.
Hasn't really addressed the sizing thing though. I recently bought a pair of Skwama's coming from the Miura VS. My Miura VS is sized EU 45, the Skwama I bought was EU 43 but it's still too big. I'd say a size 42 or 42.5 would work in those. Very frustrating though that La Sportiva can't keep their sizing consistent.
very true about the "tight but not too tight". I accidentally switched my muira vs shoes for my friends the other day (he is a size and a half smaller). They were so painful I physically couldn't climb anything hard because my feet hurt so much!
My first self-bought pair of shoes is a laced Miura that I bought 3 UK sizes down from my normal shoe size. It's taken awhile to get them broken in, but their performance over my old hand-me-down 5.10s is much higher.
I''m a newbie and in my newbie belay cert. course kit I bought La Sportiva 'Nago' in a 41. My normal shoe size is 43 maybe 44. 43 and 44 in other climbing shoe brands were way too uncomfortable. Some even painful to get on.
la sportiva is worth all the hype for sure, but they don't necessarily fit every pair of feet. I've got a slightly strange pair, both a bit wide but one is very assymetric the other is much less so. scarpa can handle my foot shape much better, specifically with the boostic, my favorite shoe. but as I said before, lotta hype, and so far only trust them with certain types of climbing I do
I have a pair of La Sportiva's Turantulace shoes and they ae my first pair of climbing shoes. I chose them because I knew La Sportiva is a very trusted brand and I wasn't wrong. I know they are on the beginner side of performance, but they work great for what I do. I'm 13 and climb 5.12a, 5.12b, and V5s. By the way, Adam Ondra is my idol and someday I would love to meet him. Just saying, EpicTV.
I've been bouldering with la sportiva genius. At first I was woried because of the size being really small. However they turned out great and sofar love la sportiva
So, what do you do when your feet are a different size? my left foot is 1,5 centimeters bigger than my right foot. On top of that, my right foot is a size 48. Most stores only go up to 47 :/
I am La Sportiva addicted and I fit into 2 EU smaller size ( I am 43.5 and use 41.5): - Gym climb= Speedster - Crack climb = Miura laces - Big wall = Miura Vs - Hard multipitches = Testarossa - Bouldering = Testarossa / Speedster - Slab = Miura laces / Testarossa / Miura Vs - Deep Water Solo = Cobra But if I need to pick up the best...Testarossa wins
I hear a lot that you have to keep in mind what type of climb you are doing, which one of these shoes would you recommend for all around climbing in a gym? I think i have medium wide feet
stupidmonkeywing it depends on your weight. If you're over ~80kg a shoe with XS Edge rubber will last longer, if you're under then you will profit from XS Grip as it's stickier. You could try the Futura if you're open for no edge shoes (it will help with your footwork), they should last longer against the rough gym walls and holds. If possible try on a shoe and see what fits you best. I really like the Skwama (not very expensive but still agressive), but that's just me. Send me a message if you have any other questions! Keep in mind that gym walls are generally steeper that rock outside, so if you only climb at the gym an agressive which can heel and toe hook (no slipper) will probably pay off.
what do you mean by falling apart? Does the rubber wear off? If yes, try to improve your footwork, get harder rubber or go for an edgeless shoe. (And get it resoled before the rand has a hole)
falling apart as in the toe rubber has peeled away from the sole, like as if they had been glued in manufacturing and it has dissolved making the 2 rubbers come apart. After researching the issue I've found this to be more common than it should be, nothing to do with my footwork as its already happened on my girlfriends solutions within 3 months of climbing on them to and her climbing style is totally different, I've had many sets of climbing shoes and these are the only ones that have fallen apart within 6 weeks. Its for sure a manufacturing issue, no shoes should be falling apart with like 15 days of climbing on them.
Chris Hailey well it's always hard to judge, but I resole climbing shoes so I know my fair share about about climbing shoe rubber. While I agree that La Sportiva shoes are not the most durable (That award would go to Scarpa imo), your experience is not the norm! Maybe it has something to do with the storage of the shoes, by you or the shop that sold it to you. If it's only the rubber that's gone you could get them resoled. Send me a message if you want further help :)
I got a pair of Tarantulas as my first pair of climbing shoes. I didn't want to break the bank too much and just get something to learn in and so I don't have to wear those nasty rentals.
Interesting... so the Miura XX and the Miura VS are completely different shoes (?), not just the velcro... My Miura VS are very comfy... and I don't like the Futura... then, according to the chart, the XX won't fit me either, right?
Yannik Waeber I say try them on. The XX are a little bit bigger (maybe a quarter size) than the VS, so despite the fact that they're supposed to be narrower the should fit you in your VS size.
Has anyone else had issues with their TC Pros?! Bought my first pair in August on a climbing trip to Squamish and wore a hole in the left big toe area within two months. Bought my second pair two months ago and the left big toe is already starting to split open.
No problems for me. I've had mine for about a year before I needed a resole. You mean the rubber on the bottom of the left toe? Have you had the problem with any other shoes? The TC's are probably my favorite climbing shoe ever!
Not the bottom but up the front (toe) of the shoe. The first pair split so bad you can see my entire big toe. The second pair are well on their way. I absolutely love the TC Pros that's why I was asking if anyone has had any problems.
Gary Wheaton maybe you size them too small (yes, that's possible) so the shoe has a lot of pressure from inside and outside. Try to only stand on holds and not "drag" your foot along the wall. if available get your shoe to a resoler and ask for a strong rand before the fabric breaks. The TC Pro is shoe known for it's durability and mine are still going strong after three resoles (normally you only resole once)
I know how you feel. I have pretty wide feet and I just bought skwama's, which fit amazingly. Probably due to the fact that the toebox doesn't curve until it's almost at the end. I didn't believe the guy in the shop, who also has wide feet, until I tried them on. Moral of the story is, have an open mind when buying shoes.
Yeah, despite the chart, I don't think the Testarossa is for wide feet. I have wide feet and my pinky hurts in it, plus my heel won't fit. The Miura VS on the other hand fits great, even though it's a bit narrower, according to the chart.
La Sportiva Shoes fall apart!!!! then their customer service ignores your e mails as do the suppliers... if you want a shoe to last you 6 weeks go for a python or solution... saying this I loved the shoes the fit and how they climb but i can't afford shoes every couple of months so.....
Chris Hailey mines are 2 years old and are fine. I don't know what yours are having but it's worth Looking around. Did you ask to your mountain shop ? They even might be able to repair them for cheap or send them to the factory (friend of mine had all the rubber done in the brand factory for 35 bucks and they were used af (could see his toes)).
yep I've been ignored by both sportiva and the supplier in NZ for the shoes, I'm sure some people have success stories but since this happened I've looked into it and the same thing is happening to lots of them and the same types, also its not my climbing style the same has happened to my GF solutions so maybe a bad batch but my main concern is how little la sportiva or the supplier care that they have a faulty product... sad times cause i love the shoes and love to climb in them... I now have team 5.10 and they have already lasted longer with no sign of falling apart lol
![เปิดบ้าน โคตรสวย ป๋องกพล รู้จักตั้งนาน เพิ่งรู้ว่ารวย!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tmgCF_2HfYI/mqdefault.jpg)
"its good for slightly overhanging" - shows clip of Adam climbing a 90° roof :D
that to him is still 89.999994 degrees, so slightly is an appropriate word
No wonder Adam Ondra makes those noises dropping 4 shoe sizes
I was actually hoping for a "1 size down for confort" sizing life hack type of tip.
perfect video when he says "slightly overhanging" haha
I love a sport where the best in the world is doing it wrong. A clear sign that there is room for diversity and that there is still a lot to be discovered.
only thing you'll discover is that adam ondra's downsize is correct for performance
heyyyyy that's me in the outrageously coloured Patagonia fleece at 06:45 :D
Hasn't really addressed the sizing thing though. I recently bought a pair of Skwama's coming from the Miura VS. My Miura VS is sized EU 45, the Skwama I bought was EU 43 but it's still too big. I'd say a size 42 or 42.5 would work in those. Very frustrating though that La Sportiva can't keep their sizing consistent.
They use different lasts, so the sizing will vary between models.
where can i find this chart online ?
very true about the "tight but not too tight". I accidentally switched my muira vs shoes for my friends the other day (he is a size and a half smaller). They were so painful I physically couldn't climb anything hard because my feet hurt so much!
Ruke of the thumb is - if you can put them on, the size is right. Feet will get used to it.
My first self-bought pair of shoes is a laced Miura that I bought 3 UK sizes down from my normal shoe size. It's taken awhile to get them broken in, but their performance over my old hand-me-down 5.10s is much higher.
I''m a newbie and in my newbie belay cert. course kit I bought La Sportiva 'Nago' in a 41. My normal shoe size is 43 maybe 44. 43 and 44 in other climbing shoe brands were way too uncomfortable. Some even painful to get on.
damn miuras vs are so painful on my big tes knuckles, i only wear them 1.5 euro sizes down
la sportiva is worth all the hype for sure, but they don't necessarily fit every pair of feet. I've got a slightly strange pair, both a bit wide but one is very assymetric the other is much less so. scarpa can handle my foot shape much better, specifically with the boostic, my favorite shoe. but as I said before, lotta hype, and so far only trust them with certain types of climbing I do
I have a pair of La Sportiva's Turantulace shoes and they ae my first pair of climbing shoes. I chose them because I knew La Sportiva is a very trusted brand and I wasn't wrong. I know they are on the beginner side of performance, but they work great for what I do. I'm 13 and climb 5.12a, 5.12b, and V5s. By the way, Adam Ondra is my idol and someday I would love to meet him. Just saying, EpicTV.
I've been bouldering with la sportiva genius. At first I was woried because of the size being really small. However they turned out great and sofar love la sportiva
So, what do you do when your feet are a different size? my left foot is 1,5 centimeters bigger than my right foot.
On top of that, my right foot is a size 48.
Most stores only go up to 47 :/
In some stores you can buy a two shoes in different sizes for s big higher price!
I am La Sportiva addicted and I fit into 2 EU smaller size ( I am 43.5 and use 41.5):
- Gym climb= Speedster
- Crack climb = Miura laces
- Big wall = Miura Vs
- Hard multipitches = Testarossa
- Bouldering = Testarossa / Speedster
- Slab = Miura laces / Testarossa / Miura Vs
- Deep Water Solo = Cobra
But if I need to pick up the best...Testarossa wins
I always say that. If i can just pick 2 shoes for the rest of my life. Testarossa and Solution. Id be good for ever.
Please help. How do I determine if my feet are narrow, normal, or wide? Also, is there a graphical chart for scarpas?
Look down at your feet, and try to google it. Maybe look at pics too.
Look down at your feet, and try to google it. Maybe look at pics too.
Fantastic video! Keep it up!
I hear a lot that you have to keep in mind what type of climb you are doing, which one of these shoes would you recommend for all around climbing in a gym? I think i have medium wide feet
stupidmonkeywing it depends on your weight. If you're over ~80kg a shoe with XS Edge rubber will last longer, if you're under then you will profit from XS Grip as it's stickier. You could try the Futura if you're open for no edge shoes (it will help with your footwork), they should last longer against the rough gym walls and holds. If possible try on a shoe and see what fits you best. I really like the Skwama (not very expensive but still agressive), but that's just me. Send me a message if you have any other questions!
Keep in mind that gym walls are generally steeper that rock outside, so if you only climb at the gym an agressive which can heel and toe hook (no slipper) will probably pay off.
@@Kianroth I never heard anyone describe the edges based on climber weight, but it makes perfect sense. Thank you from 3 years in the future lol.
this vid comes at the best time, just cause i was thinkin about upgrading from my shoes to a LA
Dont do it, la sportiva shoes fall apart... 2 sets this year already (pythons and solutions) maybe you'll have better luck though
what do you mean by falling apart? Does the rubber wear off? If yes, try to improve your footwork, get harder rubber or go for an edgeless shoe. (And get it resoled before the rand has a hole)
falling apart as in the toe rubber has peeled away from the sole, like as if they had been glued in manufacturing and it has dissolved making the 2 rubbers come apart. After researching the issue I've found this to be more common than it should be, nothing to do with my footwork as its already happened on my girlfriends solutions within 3 months of climbing on them to and her climbing style is totally different, I've had many sets of climbing shoes and these are the only ones that have fallen apart within 6 weeks. Its for sure a manufacturing issue, no shoes should be falling apart with like 15 days of climbing on them.
Chris Hailey well it's always hard to judge, but I resole climbing shoes so I know my fair share about about climbing shoe rubber. While I agree that La Sportiva shoes are not the most durable (That award would go to Scarpa imo), your experience is not the norm! Maybe it has something to do with the storage of the shoes, by you or the shop that sold it to you. If it's only the rubber that's gone you could get them resoled. Send me a message if you want further help :)
I got a pair of Tarantulas as my first pair of climbing shoes. I didn't want to break the bank too much and just get something to learn in and so I don't have to wear those nasty rentals.
Awesome!
Come to California and do tours of Five Ten, Evolv and Mad Rock, too!!
The reason why Adam Ondra is always screaming isnt because the climbing is hard, its cos his shoes are far too small
Interesting... so the Miura XX and the Miura VS are completely different shoes (?), not just the velcro...
My Miura VS are very comfy... and I don't like the Futura... then, according to the chart, the XX won't fit me either, right?
Yannik Waeber I say try them on. The XX are a little bit bigger (maybe a quarter size) than the VS, so despite the fact that they're supposed to be narrower the should fit you in your VS size.
Has anyone else had issues with their TC Pros?! Bought my first pair in August on a climbing trip to Squamish and wore a hole in the left big toe area within two months. Bought my second pair two months ago and the left big toe is already starting to split open.
No problems for me. I've had mine for about a year before I needed a resole. You mean the rubber on the bottom of the left toe? Have you had the problem with any other shoes? The TC's are probably my favorite climbing shoe ever!
Not the bottom but up the front (toe) of the shoe. The first pair split so bad you can see my entire big toe. The second pair are well on their way. I absolutely love the TC Pros that's why I was asking if anyone has had any problems.
Gary Wheaton maybe you size them too small (yes, that's possible) so the shoe has a lot of pressure from inside and outside. Try to only stand on holds and not "drag" your foot along the wall. if available get your shoe to a resoler and ask for a strong rand before the fabric breaks. The TC Pro is shoe known for it's durability and mine are still going strong after three resoles (normally you only resole once)
Thank you for the info.
I have super narrow feet and I can tell you that the testarossa model fits me like a glove! I was quite surprised while checking the chart tbh
I know how you feel. I have pretty wide feet and I just bought skwama's, which fit amazingly. Probably due to the fact that the toebox doesn't curve until it's almost at the end. I didn't believe the guy in the shop, who also has wide feet, until I tried them on. Moral of the story is, have an open mind when buying shoes.
I have wide feet according to measurements and use Miuras, while the "wide" shoes don't fit at all.
Nothing makes sense.
Matthews?💪💪
SuperAhmed1337 that’s because miuras are a wide fitting shoe!
Yeah, despite the chart, I don't think the Testarossa is for wide feet. I have wide feet and my pinky hurts in it, plus my heel won't fit. The Miura VS on the other hand fits great, even though it's a bit narrower, according to the chart.
Awesome tips! Great thumbnail! Hahaha
bought la sportiva tarantulace and getting them tomorrow..really hope they fit my feet.
How did you find them mate? They are good beginner shoes.
Keep up the great videos
I just want someone to tell me an intermediate shoe for indoor bouldering.
Scarpa Veloce
how can I find your vlog for the laspo tour?
search TH-cam for Matt Groom
I have la sportiva mythos and they're super comfy and soft, couldn't imagine wearing another pair.
La Sportiva Shoes fall apart!!!! then their customer service ignores your e mails as do the suppliers... if you want a shoe to last you 6 weeks go for a python or solution... saying this I loved the shoes the fit and how they climb but i can't afford shoes every couple of months so.....
mine didn't so far (Solutions, ~1yr old). but CS ignoring you sounds annoying indeed
Chris Hailey mines are 2 years old and are fine. I don't know what yours are having but it's worth Looking around. Did you ask to your mountain shop ? They even might be able to repair them for cheap or send them to the factory (friend of mine had all the rubber done in the brand factory for 35 bucks and they were used af (could see his toes)).
yep I've been ignored by both sportiva and the supplier in NZ for the shoes, I'm sure some people have success stories but since this happened I've looked into it and the same thing is happening to lots of them and the same types, also its not my climbing style the same has happened to my GF solutions so maybe a bad batch but my main concern is how little la sportiva or the supplier care that they have a faulty product... sad times cause i love the shoes and love to climb in them... I now have team 5.10 and they have already lasted longer with no sign of falling apart lol
Can't find cart online
www.lasportiva.com/en/size-charts
I don't see the oxygym in that picture in the magazine.
I can't find the link with the chart
www.lasportiva.com/en/size-charts
Matthew
finally :)
Italians and engineering doesn´t mix well. La Sportiva break prematurely. Better buy me some LOWAs ;)
Matthew