This is such a throwback for me. MGM has been around forever and used to be the best option for high amp brushless rc conversions before castle creations really took over. The D on the motor stands for Delta, having to do with how the windings are terminated. S is for star or wye. It’s been a minute, but I think Delta wound motors are capable of higher kv but sacrifice some torque and efficiency when compared to star/wye wound motors.
Short the input terminals and try to turn it.... VERY nice stuff. Long motor leads can cause enough inductive reactance to create timing issues with a standard back emf timed motors, good thing you've gone to a sensored motor, they are much more stable under stressful conditions. A high quality shielded cable is recommended for the sensor lead. The 10mm shaft carrying 50+hp is somewhat concerning, a rag coupling may be advisable to minimize shock and alignment would be quite important as well. Belt drive and side loading could snap that shaft (and the toothed belt) in short order. A direct drive would be best, I hope that's the plan. Otherwise a planetary gearbox would be best. Either way, a nice soft start ramp is highly advisable, I'll be watching, this is getting good!
It's not going on the P2 - it's going on the actual Vortech. That one uses my hex drive setup. If you go back through the electric turbo playlist, you can see where I made that.
I was doing some research on doing one myself and had reached out to MGM compro, since they seemed to have the specs to suit, interested to see how this motor works out
That motor is insane, not only a work of art but it has the power to back it up. The HP that motor makes should be ideal for that charger thinking along the lines of parasitic loss from a engine driving a centrifugal supercharger, I'm definitely watching this with eager eyes 😃
I had a lmt motor and it only lasted about 3 weeks before it burned out. 3 yr warranty but they didn’t even honor it! I was told they can offer a discount on a new one hope you have better luck
Any thoughts as to mounting the blower in the trunk and then plumb to your engine-take advantage of weight distribution, shorter motor leads, savings on copper wire, the long inlet tube could act as a heat sink..... Looking forward to see this set up in action! Thank you.
That would be ideal - but I'm not willing to cut the car up for that. Over the years, with tons of different custom/experimental forced induction setups, if I'd cut the car up every time I'd be driving Swiss cheese by now. I'm weird like that. But that is why I'm insisting on putting the 60lbs of batteries directly over the rear axle - plus they fit there really nicely.
Alex thanks for that explanation. We plan on using the motor to drive a centrifugal blower that requires between a 30 to 40 HP convectional 3 phase motor. That blower spins max at 22,000 RPM. we will be using the inlet side of the blower to create a Vacuum. If we were to use the LMT motor we would gear it down VIA pulleys. Is my thinking correct or does LMT offer another motor that makes peek power at 25,000 RPM?
I've learned a few things that might be helpful to you. Just because the LMT motor can spin at 50,000 rpm doesn't mean it makes peak power at 50,000 rpm. Peak power is closer to 30,000 rpm. So you might have to gear it down less than you might initially think. I'm sure you could get a lower kv/rpm motor from several manufacturers (Neu motors comes to mind as well) - but you'd still probably be looking for a 35,000 rpm capable motor. The lower the rpm, the more torque and that means a bigger, heavier motor too. It's a balancing act. Hope this helps.
I've been planning on doing this to my car also... Thinking though to help prevent to much intake drag when it's not engaged to put in a exhaust cut out valve on the intake to switch between the two when needed. Just need write some code to link my raspberry pi to the cars computer control everything.
You could do that; but I've found the compressor only represents a restriction equivalent to about 1 psi of boost. On a 500hp engine, you never notice that on the street. Unless you get on it, but then the electric supercharger kicks in anyway.
Now u just need a turbine and generetator in the exhaust to charge it, just like a turbo but insteat of the shaft connecting turbine and compressor theres batteries esc and motor between
I think you should put the ESC as close to the motor as you can. It's why they included the cabling they did and pre-wired it. I mounted a water-proof one behind the front bumper for mine. As an electrician judging the components by their size, I'm very skeptical about their ratings. Is there anyway for you to tach the RPM of the motor? You didn't say what speed it was rated for. Typical impeller speed for 15 psi or more (to get the hp numbers you're talking) is in excess for 40K RPM and you know it's going to get dragged once it's restricted any. How many RPM can that billet impeller you have handle before grenading? You might want to look that up. i think you would be better off with an axial flux motor; but you would probably have to build it. Got a 3D printer?
It's a 50,000 rpm motor. At full load and 42,000 rpm at 50 volts, it draws 550 amps continuous. These things are no joke. There's a reason this stuff costs what it does. You're looking a $3,000 worth of motor/ESC.
@@AlexLTDLX 550 amps x 50v = 27.5KW ! My kelly KHB72701C motor-drive (ESC) is rated at 700 A @ 72v which is 50.4KW; but the Me-0913 motor I'm currently using is rated @ 12KW continuous with a 30KW peak and a motor speed of 5000 RPM. Lower sprocket is 87 tooth and the upper on the Paxton is 32 tooth for a ratio of 1 : 2.7 and the internal gear ratio of the Paxton 1: 3.5. Multiply the two it comes out 1 : 9.5. That by the motor speed of 5000 comes out to about 47,500 RPM on impeller speed if the motor could push it to max speed; but it can't. I tried dirven sprokets a couple of teeth above and below too and what I'm running proved to be the best combination. I do have a tach so I know the motor is only doing about 3,600 RPM fully loaded which is a reduction of about 30%. I know between the internal gearing and the 2 1/2 8mm belt-drive I've got some parasitic loss; but I don't think it's all that much. It will really be interesting to see what you get. By the way, what are you restricting your output with to show the static boost pressure? You know what else would be really cool? some kind of CFM meter.
@@AlexLTDLX I looked up your newest stuff and if it's not too late for you, Dont use the new ESC you bought. From your last reply I know that you are counting on running that 30100 motor wired in a delta configuration for 875 RPM per volt (which would give you the impeller speed you want). In delta you only need 57vdc to get the ful 50K RPM @ 701 amps for the full 40KW rating. Thing is, I seriously doubt you'll get that under load which means you may be better off going with a wye configuration to double the torque at the cost of RPM/volt. To get 50,000 RPM in wye configuration only requires 506 amps but 98.8v which exceeds the voltage rating of your ESC. That F-ing thing was $1,800 when you can get a Kelly from Cloud Electric that goes up to 120v and 600amps for less than $1K. As far as getting more voltage is concerned, you can get enough Prius cells off Ebay to do the job for less than $300. As soon as I lose another 40ah AGM I'm getting a dozen of them that I'll group in pairs and charge with the same little 2A smart chargers I use now which charge at about 14.5v. My ESC is only rated for up to 90v so 87vdc will be fine for what I have now. prius battery cells can be charged up to 9v, but 8 is nominal and 7.2 should work for me. Too bad I didn't get a higher voltage ESC because my motor is rated up to 96vdc. I already had a 72v system when I bought it though; and back then, they're weren't any ESCs with a higher voltage rating available.
I don't think the X is for mounting. It's 3d printed and not anywhere near strong enough. I emailed them, and they told me to use the drilled/tapped holes in the heatsink for mounting. That X thing may be just for shipping or to secure cables.
Want to donate it to the cause? Lol. I think I am going to probably run out of compressor so I'm going to start looking around see if I can find a trashed V7 or something.
So, I need to build the smaller one. I have an 11 second quarter mile honda insight, and I think putting one of these on the k24 would be appropriate. Make it a hybrid again.🤫🤭😉
This is amazing!!! So typically a conventional turbo is propelled by exhaust gas and forces air to intake - are you using this electric motor to propel the turbine itself for the turbo and directing that to the intake system hence no need for exhaust gas to power the turbo?
Yes, but technically the electric motor takes the place of the turbine and drives the impeller directly. If you haven't seen it, here's a video of this beast in action at the track: th-cam.com/video/nlTVHkfSQXM/w-d-xo.html
I have so many applications I want to see this on--- but number one is existing hybrids that lack some highway performance. The hardest thing is getting good access to tuning the motors, which already run on a modified miller cycle usually at super high compression-- but if you had the power supply part solved, then it's down to fuel and air again. Also cars that are notoriously annoying/expensive to supercharge and can only take a little extra boost anyways. Toyotas come to mind... Has it been tried as a compound on a Diesel? Most of those big twin or compound setups really struggle in lower RPM
@@AlexLTDLX hybrid tahoe with a upgraded lithium hybrid pack. if you can handle 300v straight from the pack it would make a nice little boost hit. hptuners is available to tune the gas side, not the hybrid but I'm not sure of another hybrid that's has access to any tuning software, if it is a touch limited.
Loving this series! That’s a beast of a motor. I’ve been wanting to start a similar project as well. One thing I have always thought about is how power is lost when the supercharger is not spinning due to the airflow restriction. I have a basic idea for a bypass valve that shuts once there’s positive pressure from the housing. Can’t wait for what’s to come.
I've data logged the car running wide open throttle but with the electric supercharger not running. It's exactly equivalent to one PSI boost restriction on a 500 horsepower engine.
I'm wondering if a Prius converter inverter can be hacked to do this!? for it can convert DC to 3 phase output continuous 500amp and probably could do much more for it water cooled, hey even using the 3 phase motor 1 from the traction drive and a Prius hybrid battery! Thanks Nate
I would love to see you put that motor and ESC on a custom-built RC car. That car would be insane. This guy named Raz Shifrin, built a four-motor, 40 HP car with some castle ESCs and motors. But, you have one motor that is 53 HP. I don't know if you are into the RC car built thing, but we in the RC community, love builts like that. I cannot imagine how much money that ESC and motor costs you? Small fortune I am sure.
@@AlexLTDLX That's what they used to say about muscle cars, back in the days. That engine is too big, too powerful, for that car. But, I understand what your saying. I have the perfect RC Truck, for that motor. Primal RC'S Raminator. In case your not familiar with that truck, is a 1,/5 scale 80 lb gas monster truck. They actually have an electric conversion kit for it. I am sure that truck can handle that motor without breaking a sweat.
Yeah a bit late to the party but if you check out RC Sparks youtube channel he has the very same motor/esc combo in a 1/5 scale Primal RC Raminator monster truck. It's a bit insane. Pretty sure he was running 15s (55.5 volts).
What are you using for your power supply? I have a somewhat similar project where I need a motor to provide ~20kW @ ~24,000 RPM. I can't seem to find any data from the manufacturer regarding operating voltage. Would you be willing to provide what voltage and current you are operating at and what kind of power supply you are using to provide it?
Here's a look inside one of my two battery packs: th-cam.com/video/KscgGhk3ejs/w-d-xo.html I also have a video where I stick weld with one of the packs.
Good you are going for thicker cables. Are you going for 4AWG or 4/0 wires? Sorry for the silly question I am from the metric world. Should the ESC not be closer to the motor? (My reasoning in EVs you have long cable lengths from the batteries to the inverters, and the latter is placed just near the motor i.e. shorter cables to the motor)
4 awg. There will be 6 of them. I initially wanted to run the ESC closer to the motor, but after learning more about how these things work, long power cables put a lot of stress on the ESC.
Sweet high end stuff. did you need the light-weight hobby stuff :) ? I guess 40kw ebike motor and controller is about US$1.5k from QS and probly weigh x4 (30kg) of your setup. You're not mucking around now!
You do realize that the 3 phase wires going to the motor carry more current and thus need bigger gauge wire than the DC supply, right. Placing the controller in the trunk will require more large gauge wire than just placing it in the engine compartment. We always place the controller as close to the motor as possible.
It is highly recommended that you keep your ESC as close to your Motor as possible to prevent interference problems! Not keeping the wires between the ESC and the Motor short, will cause hi frequency noise all over your car. This can highly increase the chances of the ESC and the Motor loosing sync and can also cause weird things to happen with the other systems in your car. The caps at the ESC are very important for the same reasons.
One set of wires has to be really long to be practical. I've had limited luck with long power leads - and MGM suggests long motor leads. So we're going to try that next.
Wonder if i can fit that into my Arrma Limitless RC car 🤔😂. That's one serious combo!! Making me think about swapping out my stock turbo system in my Jetta lol.
If you've already got a turbo in your Jetta I'd leave well enough alone. I've owned about five Audis but never had a turbo one. The thing that started this all if you go back in the playlist is a small turbo from a Volkswagen that I converted to a crankcase evacuation pump.
I'm curious what that motor/ESC combo costs as that would be my dream set up for an RC car world speed record attempt, I'm assuming somewhere in the neighborhood of $3000?
Going to need some serious charging capabilities I did this 10 years ago using multiple edf’s on an rb30 but didn’t have enough alternator to make it viable,compressed air is far more efficient at making an air pump pump harder without the losses of resistance and heat
Apparently that 3d printed piece is designed to hold a battery with a velcro strap. Even if I could've used it in the car with the electric turbo, the car leaves so hard it would ripped it to pieces. But since the pack I'm using weighs 60lbs, they're mounted separately anyway.
Yeah, the whole thing seemed a bit janky. It was actually cracked in shipping. I glued it back together with superglue, but I didn't use it. It just sits on my other desk, blissfully enjoy being a single piece again.
EeeeYyyyeaaaah! Now we’re talkin 1000hp. (What probly around 15-20psi boost?) You said maxing out the compressor, usually is around 20-25 for that size.
In this case, it'd be a theoretical 15 psi. But we seem to bending that "law" for some reason - not really clear why. It may take less. Then again, I can always run it on E85 or Q16.
Definitely a perfect alternative to nitrous. Cannot wait for the dump testing. May look towards this for my current project that through the radionics and CanBus so I can switch it on and off depending on who is driving it . I had seen the newer video the flag … Kudos to the Ukrainians. Looking forward to the perfect parts list .
Thanks. Your CAN bus idea is definitely a good one. A lot of people don't realize how much power 750-850 hp actually is. For most people, it's far more than they can handle responsibly. That's actually been one of my biggest challenges - finding safe places and way to test this thing on the car.
@@AlexLTDLX Definitely an issue. Everyone wants that 1000 hp mark but half of what’s out there isn’t putting it to the ground , and safely , anyways. I didn’t even proofread what I wrote earlier. Radionics. Must actually be a word, surprised that it popped up in the dictation, lol.
Hey! I love your content and I'm partnered with TheAdrenalineDealer and 8LugsNoPlugs and we'd love to share your content across our platforms with full credit to you!
@@802Garage Hey! I love you v10 Impreza build. I've been following it for quite some time on Tik Tok. If he wants to talk about licensing footage for payment, I'm down for that too!
@@FailsAndFightsFNF Thanks much appreciated. No hard feelings hopefully. Just gets frustrating to me when people approach for sharing videos, but rarely want to compensate, hahaha. Glad you're open to discuss at least.
If you manage to blow up this thing up, you have to check out open inverter forum. They have a 500usd board you fit in to a Prius inverter, let's you control everything, and run some 100kw+, and the best part: you get to say that your tuning your car with Prius power 😅😅😅
The biggest issue I've found with EV inverters is they can't hit the eRPM we need to do this direct drive. And going to a significantly geared setup necessitates more torque - things get bigger and heavier faster. But dropping a Nissan Leaf motor/batteries in the trunk with a humongous ProCharge has crossed my mind...
@@AlexLTDLX they also generally need a lot more voltage, so that means more battery and a different style of motor. Perhaps a direct drive motor on the crank, and a blower for the high end, but that is getting complicated 😅
The equation for horsepower is hp = torque * rpm/5252. That motor spins at up to 50,000 rpm. If we flip the equation around to solve for torque, you get T = Hp/(RPM/5252). If it makes peak hp at 50,000 rpm, you get: T=53/(50,000/5252). Torque = 5.6 ft-lbs. If it makes peak power at 25,000 rpm, it's still only making 11.13 ft-lbs of torque. That 10mm shaft can withstand way more torque than that. I'm driving the Sledgehammer with a 6mm bolt (10mm hex head). It hasn't broken, and we've picked up 205 rwhp and put a 12 second car into the 9s with it: th-cam.com/video/RT0M88xHzNQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bS55EeO5bnPIWMYZ
I used think that too - in fact, that was my initial plan. But since then I've learned that long power cables are really hard on the ESC - specifically the capacitor bank and the power stage.
@@AlexLTDLX like i said no expert , power cables just need to supply clean power, motor cables are square wave so harmonics up to the moon and back. Perhaps ESC and capacitors all upfront? I'm rooting for you , I want to see mega horsepower without any more magic smoke :)
Last night I finally got the VESC/P2 unit up to full speed. It was starting to lift a car battery, a 20 lb sandbag, two 36" x 2" x 10" pieces of lumber, a 25 lb blast shield and itself through a 1" restriction. Fun!
@@AlexLTDLX yup, even if it only hits 75-80% output (vs input power) its darn sure going to blow out some diapers! also been watching some BREW2L, the foxbody with the belt driven supercharger may be lower pressure, but physically/solidly connected to engine rpm its just about ALWAYS pushing that same amount of boost, like the electric will do. definitely think a "drop it in" go-cart side project would be fun+funny.
What is the kv rating stated from supplier?. At 1v how fast no load = kv. 2. Does supplier list max rpm. This motor is core less meaning no iron that is why it does not cog. Motors configured this way have a low start current and lower starting torque which is the type that should work best for this applications requirements no cog should not have the high instant vibrations of a motor with iron core the hp max occurs at higher rpm than core motor. I tried to make similar type of setup 4 years ago stopped when it was realised the amount of power the compressor would require to get pressure at volume necessary. Getting large airflow not difficult get pressure at xxxcfm hard yet benifit of long term small accumulation of energy for short extreme burst of acceleration and its similar to that Mad Max switch O Yaaaaa kool. keep going your on the path to do what has been great in concept difficult/impossible in practical application.
It is kind of frightening. And we've actually seen over 40hp out of it already - 47 electrical hp, and given the motor's rated efficiency and the ESC's efficiency (along with cable losses), you're still looking at at least 44 real hp. Sort of mid boggling. Makes me want to put one of these in a bike or something.
I would need to go much bigger to reach the limits of the engine (1,400hp or so); but yeah, the compressors are a bit undersized. As long as we keep showing promising results, I'll keep going bigger. Though my street car that I drag race really doesn't need more than 1,000 hp. Beyond that, I'll probably put it on a grudge car or something.
That looked like Christmas morning. Do think there will be a hp level you'll want to introduce an intercooler? Maybe some meth injection? I'm pumped to see this push you into the 9s one day.
It could benefit from an intercooler above 8 psi; but not as necessary as a normal turbo or blower. A normal turbo gets heat from it's proximity to exhaust, and normal blowers are always running. As long as it goes deeper into the 9's than the Whipple did I'll be happy: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html
I wondered how long it'd be before you went to MGM. Their ESC's are amazing. I used to run one on an RC speed record car. I only hope the user interface has improved since then. PLEASE don't put the ESC in the trunk! Those wires will be WAAAY too long!! If you HAVE to, put it behind the firewall but I'd recommend putting it as close to the motor as you practically can.
@@AlexLTDLX The batteries supply dc to the speed controller so only the resistance of the cables will limit power transfer. The caps limit any ac that might occur in the battery cables. Although the cables to the motor aren’t ac they’re certainly alternating and the inductance and capacitance of the cable will limit power transfer as well as its resistance. Every time there’s a transition it’ll generate a magnetic field around the cable and as that field collapses it’ll generate a back-emf in the cable. Basically that means that the signals to the motor will be dirtier the longer the cables are. This might not be a problem for the motor windings but the sensor cable signals could well be compromised and unless that cable is shielded it’ll pick up noise from the motor cables too. Also, you’ve only got two conductors between the battery and speed controller where you’ll have 6 high-current cables and the sensor cable. So, chances are it’d cost more too. I get what you’re saying about protecting the ESC from excessive heat in the engine compartment but that’s a problem that can be solved fairly easily.
I find it hard to believe a tiny motor like that has more horsepower than I had in my 1967 VW Beetle or my 1960 Austin Healey Sprite. Let's see an electric car conversion using that motor!
That's pretty much exactly the opposite of what MGM is telling me to do. And I do know that long power leads put a lot of stress on the ESC capacitor bank and power stage.
That's a very bad idea! You NEED the controller as close to the motor as you can possibly get it. AKA, put bullets on the ends of the controller phase wires and plug them directly into the motor...that's your maximum phase wire length! Expect that voltage drop to be more like 40v if you put it in your trunk. I don't know exactly since your wire lengths are unknown and I don't know the motor, but it will be a lot and that's just the voltage drop issue. Notice how Tesla puts their inverters AT the motor. Lengths are 6 or 8 inches at most. You really don't want long phase wires! At the amperage you are estimating, the inductance will be crazy high in the wires. If you can get the controller wires down to 6" or less, that's your best bet. *** Motor and magnet design defines how hard they are to turn by hand. You really don't want a motor that magnetically cogs and is hard to turn. This requires more phase amps to overcome. I have a large Russian made outrunner that is like this motor...very easy to turn and yet is quite powerful!
Why? Long power cables are the kiss of death to the power stage and the capacitor banks. In doing probably too much research and actual empirical testing, I've found if your motor is sensored, then long motor cables are the way to go. FWIW, MGM told me to keep the power cables short and make the motor cables as long as I want.
@@AlexLTDLX Best thing I can tell you is that you'll find out soon enough. Go for it...make those phase wires really long and see what happens. IF you are seeing large voltage drops on your DC cables, you need larger cables. If you look at how Tesla does it, their phase wires are very short and their battery wires are long. There's really good reasons for this. Just me personally, but I'll copy what the premier electric car manufacturer on the planet does before I copy an RC parts company!
hi watch your videos and if you want to measure the psi put an air flow meter in place you can then measure the resistance on the air flow meter that will tell you how much psi it can make put it before the air filter. you need to measure the amount of suck you have and not trying to measure turbo output as that be false.
I'm old. I don't know what that means. I can tell you I'm not number 6. Google, "The Prisoner." The greatest TV show ever made. It was so good, it's the only show the Beatles ever licensed their music to.
We already hit over 40 hp in garage testing: th-cam.com/video/Azeaf6WVPfQ/w-d-xo.html and running less than full power, on an actual car making boost and supporting about 657hp (flywheel) we hit 35 hp: th-cam.com/video/7cCSbogg-AI/w-d-xo.html Remember 1hp = 746 watts.
I hate to break this to you but lehner motors are over priced junk. I used three of them and all three failed. The rotor is not bonded to the shaft well. Tp power motors are much better. MGM controllers are junk too. I used to use both of those in high Rc boats. Good luck with warranty on either of them when they fail. They do both look sweet tho, and the low rpm control of the mgm is impressive.
Your motor leads are too long.You better read their specs.I smoked two of those bad boys already.You know how expensive they are coupled with shipping and customs.I was gonna send them back to fix and Fed Ex wanted 480 bucks to do it
They repeatedly told me to run long motor leads over long battery leads. Besides which, long battery leads put a lot of stress on the ESC capacitor bank and power stages. I guess we'll see.
Bet that thing has a whole weather front of "magic" smoke in it! This is getting good!
Let's hope that magic smoke stays inside. Otherwise my wallet and I will cry together.
Mint. Love to see you be the first electric turbo to hang out with cleetus McFarland and the boys
You got as much power in that motor as my 1st ever car.. an Opel Corsa A 1.2i..🤣
This is such a throwback for me. MGM has been around forever and used to be the best option for high amp brushless rc conversions before castle creations really took over.
The D on the motor stands for Delta, having to do with how the windings are terminated. S is for star or wye. It’s been a minute, but I think Delta wound motors are capable of higher kv but sacrifice some torque and efficiency when compared to star/wye wound motors.
Yup, spot on. Y winds are more torquey.
Thanks for the input. I can never keep straight which configuration is what.
This is a very good idea I hope you keep researching it and perfecting it
Thank you, I will
Very cool. Can't wait to see what this thing will do.
That makes two of us!
Short the input terminals and try to turn it....
VERY nice stuff. Long motor leads can cause enough inductive reactance to create timing issues with a standard back emf timed motors, good thing you've gone to a sensored motor, they are much more stable under stressful conditions. A high quality shielded cable is recommended for the sensor lead. The 10mm shaft carrying 50+hp is somewhat concerning, a rag coupling may be advisable to minimize shock and alignment would be quite important as well. Belt drive and side loading could snap that shaft (and the toothed belt) in short order. A direct drive would be best, I hope that's the plan. Otherwise a planetary gearbox would be best. Either way, a nice soft start ramp is highly advisable, I'll be watching, this is getting good!
It's not going on the P2 - it's going on the actual Vortech. That one uses my hex drive setup. If you go back through the electric turbo playlist, you can see where I made that.
@@AlexLTDLX Will do, I just recently started following your project. I'll check out some of your past videos. Thanks and Good luck!
I was doing some research on doing one myself and had reached out to MGM compro, since they seemed to have the specs to suit, interested to see how this motor works out
That motor is insane, not only a work of art but it has the power to back it up. The HP that motor makes should be ideal for that charger thinking along the lines of parasitic loss from a engine driving a centrifugal supercharger, I'm definitely watching this with eager eyes 😃
I had a lmt motor and it only lasted about 3 weeks before it burned out. 3 yr warranty but they didn’t even honor it! I was told they can offer a discount on a new one hope you have better luck
Any thoughts as to mounting the blower in the trunk and then plumb to your engine-take advantage of weight distribution, shorter motor leads, savings on copper wire, the long inlet tube could act as a heat sink..... Looking forward to see this set up in action! Thank you.
That would be ideal - but I'm not willing to cut the car up for that. Over the years, with tons of different custom/experimental forced induction setups, if I'd cut the car up every time I'd be driving Swiss cheese by now. I'm weird like that. But that is why I'm insisting on putting the 60lbs of batteries directly over the rear axle - plus they fit there really nicely.
Cant wait to see both of these turbos on the dyno! Keep up the good work.
That makes two of us. And thanks!
Awesome work man. Interested in seeing the progress in this. Subscribed
Thank you!
Alex
thanks for that explanation.
We plan on using the motor to drive a centrifugal blower that requires between a 30 to 40 HP convectional 3 phase motor.
That blower spins max at 22,000 RPM.
we will be using the inlet side of the blower to create a Vacuum.
If we were to use the LMT motor we would gear it down VIA pulleys.
Is my thinking correct or does LMT offer another motor that makes peek power at 25,000 RPM?
I've learned a few things that might be helpful to you. Just because the LMT motor can spin at 50,000 rpm doesn't mean it makes peak power at 50,000 rpm. Peak power is closer to 30,000 rpm. So you might have to gear it down less than you might initially think. I'm sure you could get a lower kv/rpm motor from several manufacturers (Neu motors comes to mind as well) - but you'd still probably be looking for a 35,000 rpm capable motor. The lower the rpm, the more torque and that means a bigger, heavier motor too. It's a balancing act. Hope this helps.
I've been planning on doing this to my car also... Thinking though to help prevent to much intake drag when it's not engaged to put in a exhaust cut out valve on the intake to switch between the two when needed. Just need write some code to link my raspberry pi to the cars computer control everything.
You could do that; but I've found the compressor only represents a restriction equivalent to about 1 psi of boost. On a 500hp engine, you never notice that on the street. Unless you get on it, but then the electric supercharger kicks in anyway.
Now u just need a turbine and generetator in the exhaust to charge it, just like a turbo but insteat of the shaft connecting turbine and compressor theres batteries esc and motor between
You could just charge it from the alternator... that's what I do (with a boost converter to raise the voltage to 60 volts, of course).
@@AlexLTDLX Thats true but you could also use the Energy thats in the exhaust gas, just an idea tho
I think you should put the ESC as close to the motor as you can. It's why they included the cabling they did and pre-wired it. I mounted a water-proof one behind the front bumper for mine. As an electrician judging the components by their size, I'm very skeptical about their ratings. Is there anyway for you to tach the RPM of the motor? You didn't say what speed it was rated for. Typical impeller speed for 15 psi or more (to get the hp numbers you're talking) is in excess for 40K RPM and you know it's going to get dragged once it's restricted any. How many RPM can that billet impeller you have handle before grenading? You might want to look that up. i think you would be better off with an axial flux motor; but you would probably have to build it. Got a 3D printer?
I'm not an electrician but it seems a bit over rated. Glad I'm not the only one
It's a 50,000 rpm motor. At full load and 42,000 rpm at 50 volts, it draws 550 amps continuous. These things are no joke. There's a reason this stuff costs what it does. You're looking a $3,000 worth of motor/ESC.
@@AlexLTDLX 550 amps x 50v = 27.5KW ! My kelly KHB72701C motor-drive (ESC) is rated at 700 A @ 72v which is 50.4KW; but the Me-0913 motor I'm currently using is rated @ 12KW continuous with a 30KW peak and a motor speed of 5000 RPM. Lower sprocket is 87 tooth and the upper on the Paxton is 32 tooth for a ratio of 1 : 2.7 and the internal gear ratio of the Paxton 1: 3.5. Multiply the two it comes out 1 : 9.5. That by the motor speed of 5000 comes out to about 47,500 RPM on impeller speed if the motor could push it to max speed; but it can't. I tried dirven sprokets a couple of teeth above and below too and what I'm running proved to be the best combination. I do have a tach so I know the motor is only doing about 3,600 RPM fully loaded which is a reduction of about 30%. I know between the internal gearing and the 2 1/2 8mm belt-drive I've got some parasitic loss; but I don't think it's all that much. It will really be interesting to see what you get. By the way, what are you restricting your output with to show the static boost pressure? You know what else would be really cool? some kind of CFM meter.
@@AlexLTDLX I looked up your newest stuff and if it's not too late for you, Dont use the new ESC you bought. From your last reply I know that you are counting on running that 30100 motor wired in a delta configuration for 875 RPM per volt (which would give you the impeller speed you want). In delta you only need 57vdc to get the ful 50K RPM @ 701 amps for the full 40KW rating. Thing is, I seriously doubt you'll get that under load which means you may be better off going with a wye configuration to double the torque at the cost of RPM/volt. To get 50,000 RPM in wye configuration only requires 506 amps but 98.8v which exceeds the voltage rating of your ESC. That F-ing thing was $1,800 when you can get a Kelly from Cloud Electric that goes up to 120v and 600amps for less than $1K. As far as getting more voltage is concerned, you can get enough Prius cells off Ebay to do the job for less than $300. As soon as I lose another 40ah AGM I'm getting a dozen of them that I'll group in pairs and charge with the same little 2A smart chargers I use now which charge at about 14.5v. My ESC is only rated for up to 90v so 87vdc will be fine for what I have now. prius battery cells can be charged up to 9v, but 8 is nominal and 7.2 should work for me. Too bad I didn't get a higher voltage ESC because my motor is rated up to 96vdc. I already had a 72v system when I bought it though; and back then, they're weren't any ESCs with a higher voltage rating available.
X is mounting bracket. very nice pick up.
I don't think the X is for mounting. It's 3d printed and not anywhere near strong enough. I emailed them, and they told me to use the drilled/tapped holes in the heatsink for mounting. That X thing may be just for shipping or to secure cables.
Hey how cool to see my suggestion being materialized! Don't kill yourself testing!
I'm going to build a blast shield. The polycarbonate sheet arrived a couple days ago.
I believe you are getting closer! Gonna run out of compressor. Maybe you need an XX trim like what I've got.
Want to donate it to the cause? Lol. I think I am going to probably run out of compressor so I'm going to start looking around see if I can find a trashed V7 or something.
Take it off any sweet jumps?
The LTD? No. But it has pulled the front wheels off the ground. Does that count?
It looks like you got so much power now, that actually driving a roots blower would be feasible!!
So, I need to build the smaller one.
I have an 11 second quarter mile honda insight, and I think putting one of these on the k24 would be appropriate.
Make it a hybrid again.🤫🤭😉
This is amazing!!!
So typically a conventional turbo is propelled by exhaust gas and forces air to intake - are you using this electric motor to propel the turbine itself for the turbo and directing that to the intake system hence no need for exhaust gas to power the turbo?
Yes, but technically the electric motor takes the place of the turbine and drives the impeller directly. If you haven't seen it, here's a video of this beast in action at the track: th-cam.com/video/nlTVHkfSQXM/w-d-xo.html
Nice! I'm looking forward to seeing the test.
You and me both!
Can you connect that motor into a regular esc that have only 3 connector instead of 6?
Yes - two wires go to the same phase on the ESC. If you look at some of the videos when I ran this thing, you'll probably be able to see it.
@@AlexLTDLX thank you
I have so many applications I want to see this on--- but number one is existing hybrids that lack some highway performance. The hardest thing is getting good access to tuning the motors, which already run on a modified miller cycle usually at super high compression-- but if you had the power supply part solved, then it's down to fuel and air again.
Also cars that are notoriously annoying/expensive to supercharge and can only take a little extra boost anyways. Toyotas come to mind... Has it been tried as a compound on a Diesel? Most of those big twin or compound setups really struggle in lower RPM
I agree - we're thinking along the same lines, re: hybrids.
@@AlexLTDLX hybrid tahoe with a upgraded lithium hybrid pack. if you can handle 300v straight from the pack it would make a nice little boost hit. hptuners is available to tune the gas side, not the hybrid but I'm not sure of another hybrid that's has access to any tuning software, if it is a touch limited.
That looks like a spicy unit right there!!
Loving this series! That’s a beast of a motor. I’ve been wanting to start a similar project as well. One thing I have always thought about is how power is lost when the supercharger is not spinning due to the airflow restriction. I have a basic idea for a bypass valve that shuts once there’s positive pressure from the housing. Can’t wait for what’s to come.
He mentioned in another vid with this supercharger on his ~6.0liter engine about 1%.
It's hardly worth the bypass flap at such a low loss.
@@ThePaulv12 That’s good to know, which video does he mention this in?
I've data logged the car running wide open throttle but with the electric supercharger not running. It's exactly equivalent to one PSI boost restriction on a 500 horsepower engine.
I'm wondering if a Prius converter inverter can be hacked to do this!? for it can convert DC to 3 phase output continuous 500amp and probably could do much more for it water cooled, hey even using the 3 phase motor 1 from the traction drive and a Prius hybrid battery! Thanks Nate
Somebody else had the same idea. The biggest issue I've seen is they can't support the eRPM we need.
I would love to see you put that motor and ESC on a custom-built RC car. That car would be insane. This guy named Raz Shifrin, built a four-motor, 40 HP car with some castle ESCs and motors. But, you have one motor that is 53 HP. I don't know if you are into the RC car built thing, but we in the RC community, love builts like that. I cannot imagine how much money that ESC and motor costs you? Small fortune I am sure.
It would also go great in a go cart
Was just thinking the same.
It would be nuts in an RC car. And to answer your other question, a bit over $3,000.
@@AlexLTDLX That's what they used to say about muscle cars, back in the days. That engine is too big, too powerful, for that car. But, I understand what your saying. I have the perfect RC Truck, for that motor. Primal RC'S Raminator. In case your not familiar with that truck, is a 1,/5 scale 80 lb gas monster truck. They actually have an electric conversion kit for it. I am sure that truck can handle that motor without breaking a sweat.
Yeah a bit late to the party but if you check out RC Sparks youtube channel he has the very same motor/esc combo in a 1/5 scale Primal RC Raminator monster truck. It's a bit insane. Pretty sure he was running 15s (55.5 volts).
How much does that motor/esc combo cost? That is amazing how far tech has come.
It actually hurts me physically to tell you - about $3k.
@@AlexLTDLX shoot man if I had the money I would pay that for sure,I would absolutely love to make a ebike with that combo
Finally, could of of swore I told you to get a MGM over a year ago
Any chance you will be selling kits in the future?
Maybe various parts; but whole kits carry too much liability. If/when that happens, it'll be on www.electrifiedboost.com
oh man Alex, this is going to be good!
One way or another is bound to be entertaining.
What are you using for your power supply? I have a somewhat similar project where I need a motor to provide ~20kW @ ~24,000 RPM. I can't seem to find any data from the manufacturer regarding operating voltage. Would you be willing to provide what voltage and current you are operating at and what kind of power supply you are using to provide it?
Here's a look inside one of my two battery packs: th-cam.com/video/KscgGhk3ejs/w-d-xo.html I also have a video where I stick weld with one of the packs.
Hi Alex, how much does the motor weigh, thanks.
I haven't weighed it, but I'd say about 5-7 lbs.
OH hell yeah!😁😁😆
Check requirements for lead length and be very careful with the length they all have to be the same if you make your own.
Apparently the sensor helps with that. But I intend to keep the cables the same length.
Good you are going for thicker cables. Are you going for 4AWG or 4/0 wires? Sorry for the silly question I am from the metric world. Should the ESC not be closer to the motor? (My reasoning in EVs you have long cable lengths from the batteries to the inverters, and the latter is placed just near the motor i.e. shorter cables to the motor)
4 awg. There will be 6 of them. I initially wanted to run the ESC closer to the motor, but after learning more about how these things work, long power cables put a lot of stress on the ESC.
Thank you would be cool to put one of these motors alone in a golf cart what are y'all think
You'd have to gear it way down, but yeah - it would work. Maybe a similar power outrunner with a lower kv might be better.
I need one of those MGM setups in my 1/5 Kraton. Is that ESC water cooled?
It's air-cooled. You can see the fans pretty clearly in the video.
We make all of our ESCs with water-cooling as well.
Sweet high end stuff. did you need the light-weight hobby stuff :) ? I guess 40kw ebike motor and controller is about US$1.5k from QS and probly weigh x4 (30kg) of your setup. You're not mucking around now!
What I need is high rpm, thus this expensive stuff. I'm also trying to keep it small and light.
im so excited to see what this motor does
You and me both!
So awesome! Why can't I have cool neighbors like you around me!
Lol. I wish the opposite was true too. That's why I'm looking to move.
@@AlexLTDLX 😂😂😂 I tinker alot, but you're on another level and I only wish to learn but I could see nosey neighbors being an issue...
You do realize that the 3 phase wires going to the motor carry more current and thus need bigger gauge wire than the DC supply, right. Placing the controller in the trunk will require more large gauge wire than just placing it in the engine compartment. We always place the controller as close to the motor as possible.
It is highly recommended that you keep your ESC as close to your Motor as possible to prevent interference problems!
Not keeping the wires between the ESC and the Motor short, will cause hi frequency noise all over your car.
This can highly increase the chances of the ESC and the Motor loosing sync and can also cause weird things to happen with the other systems in your car.
The caps at the ESC are very important for the same reasons.
One set of wires has to be really long to be practical. I've had limited luck with long power leads - and MGM suggests long motor leads. So we're going to try that next.
Is that a motor for a r/c airplane?
Yes. In theory. But it seems a bit nuts for that.
That totally makes sense that government was concerned about a T shirt, they always have their priorities right on target!
It was ridiculous. Seriously. I now even have a customs "case manager." For 1 T shirt.
Wonder if i can fit that into my Arrma Limitless RC car 🤔😂.
That's one serious combo!! Making me think about swapping out my stock turbo system in my Jetta lol.
If you've already got a turbo in your Jetta I'd leave well enough alone. I've owned about five Audis but never had a turbo one. The thing that started this all if you go back in the playlist is a small turbo from a Volkswagen that I converted to a crankcase evacuation pump.
Check Gerard Morin to make a generator to power your motor?
I'm happy with the LTO packs I have - they're absolute beasts. But I'll check that generator out!
I'm curious what that motor/ESC combo costs as that would be my dream set up for an RC car world speed record attempt, I'm assuming somewhere in the neighborhood of $3000?
That's pretty much spot on.
Going to need some serious charging capabilities I did this 10 years ago using multiple edf’s on an rb30 but didn’t have enough alternator to make it viable,compressed air is far more efficient at making an air pump pump harder without the losses of resistance and heat
I’m really starting to like this channel
Thanks!
When trying to figure how to lift /carry the controller try that strappy handle thing that took off in bewilderment .
Apparently that 3d printed piece is designed to hold a battery with a velcro strap. Even if I could've used it in the car with the electric turbo, the car leaves so hard it would ripped it to pieces. But since the pack I'm using weighs 60lbs, they're mounted separately anyway.
@@AlexLTDLX I would not trust a Velcro strap for the mounting either , That Ford aint no joke. Keep up the good work .
Yeah, the whole thing seemed a bit janky. It was actually cracked in shipping. I glued it back together with superglue, but I didn't use it. It just sits on my other desk, blissfully enjoy being a single piece again.
They sell capacitor banks to smooth out the ripple currents
Already have them installed. Thanks for watching and commenting.
EeeeYyyyeaaaah!
Now we’re talkin 1000hp.
(What probly around 15-20psi boost?)
You said maxing out the compressor, usually is around 20-25 for that size.
In this case, it'd be a theoretical 15 psi. But we seem to bending that "law" for some reason - not really clear why. It may take less. Then again, I can always run it on E85 or Q16.
53 x 4 hooves seems doubtful for that size; some heavy cables to feed those horses :)
Lol - you're right. The motor cables came in. The cable itself weighs over 25 lbs. And cost almost $200.
Time to find an old tesla pack to quarter and make into something to power this?
The lto packs I'm using have a much higher burst capacity. They're rated at 900 amps continuous and literally thousands of amps peak.
How did you find this motor?
Google MGM esc or LMT 30100 motor.
Its crazy to see that much hp from something so small iam just think of the old vw engines that made 35hp
Funny you should mention that. I’m thinking I need one of these on my 90hp 1776 VW air cooled sand rail. Maybe get it up to 125?
It really is amazing.
Definitely a perfect alternative to nitrous. Cannot wait for the dump testing. May look towards this for my current project that through the radionics and CanBus so I can switch it on and off depending on who is driving it . I had seen the newer video the flag … Kudos to the Ukrainians.
Looking forward to the perfect parts list .
Thanks. Your CAN bus idea is definitely a good one. A lot of people don't realize how much power 750-850 hp actually is. For most people, it's far more than they can handle responsibly. That's actually been one of my biggest challenges - finding safe places and way to test this thing on the car.
@@AlexLTDLX Definitely an issue. Everyone wants that 1000 hp mark but half of what’s out there isn’t putting it to the ground , and safely , anyways.
I didn’t even proofread what I wrote earlier. Radionics. Must actually be a word, surprised that it popped up in the dictation, lol.
The Car Gods are pleased
I hope so.
What type of IGBT is it?
I don't know - but the think the power output stage is all MOSFETs, not IGBTs.
Man ur crazy and this is awesome
Ur the only one in the world doing this at this level
These motors never seen and used and compared together
Love it
Thanks for the kind words - I'm having a blast!
Hey! I love your content and I'm partnered with TheAdrenalineDealer and 8LugsNoPlugs and we'd love to share your content across our platforms with full credit to you!
If you want to share his content, offer him payment?
@@802Garage Hey! I love you v10 Impreza build. I've been following it for quite some time on Tik Tok. If he wants to talk about licensing footage for payment, I'm down for that too!
@@FailsAndFightsFNF Thanks much appreciated. No hard feelings hopefully. Just gets frustrating to me when people approach for sharing videos, but rarely want to compensate, hahaha. Glad you're open to discuss at least.
@@802Garage No hard feelings at all. I get where you're coming from.
You can email me at the email address on my TH-cam page.
Put it in an Arrma Infraction.
Again ill say it. Supercharger dont rob you of 100s of HP to make boost. Thanks for the proof in this video series.
Damm I love that motor
If you manage to blow up this thing up, you have to check out open inverter forum. They have a 500usd board you fit in to a Prius inverter, let's you control everything, and run some 100kw+, and the best part: you get to say that your tuning your car with Prius power 😅😅😅
The biggest issue I've found with EV inverters is they can't hit the eRPM we need to do this direct drive. And going to a significantly geared setup necessitates more torque - things get bigger and heavier faster. But dropping a Nissan Leaf motor/batteries in the trunk with a humongous ProCharge has crossed my mind...
@@AlexLTDLX they also generally need a lot more voltage, so that means more battery and a different style of motor. Perhaps a direct drive motor on the crank, and a blower for the high end, but that is getting complicated 😅
Does this motor actually develop 53 HP? How is it possible to transfer 53 HP through a 10MM shaft?
The equation for horsepower is hp = torque * rpm/5252. That motor spins at up to 50,000 rpm. If we flip the equation around to solve for torque, you get T = Hp/(RPM/5252). If it makes peak hp at 50,000 rpm, you get: T=53/(50,000/5252). Torque = 5.6 ft-lbs. If it makes peak power at 25,000 rpm, it's still only making 11.13 ft-lbs of torque. That 10mm shaft can withstand way more torque than that. I'm driving the Sledgehammer with a 6mm bolt (10mm hex head). It hasn't broken, and we've picked up 205 rwhp and put a 12 second car into the 9s with it: th-cam.com/video/RT0M88xHzNQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bS55EeO5bnPIWMYZ
MGM in the house!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm curious how they get that HP rating cause I'm finding it hard to believe that makes 53hp 😒
1 E hp = 746watts. 53 * 746 = 39538 watts. / 1000 Amps must be around 40v plus losses?
A useable torque number spinning up past 30Krpms is easy to make 53hp.
Same way a crotch rocket 600cc motor that makes 30ftlbs makes 150hp…16Krpms!!!
aweswome
No expert but I'd be putting it as close to the motor, given the frequencys and currents involved long motor wires can't be good.
I used think that too - in fact, that was my initial plan. But since then I've learned that long power cables are really hard on the ESC - specifically the capacitor bank and the power stage.
@@AlexLTDLX like i said no expert , power cables just need to supply clean power, motor cables are square wave so harmonics up to the moon and back. Perhaps ESC and capacitors all upfront? I'm rooting for you , I want to see mega horsepower without any more magic smoke :)
Legend
Wow. Thanks.
I'm only laughing because 40kw motor with the blower....
would make an electric rocket of a go-cart all by itself!
Last night I finally got the VESC/P2 unit up to full speed. It was starting to lift a car battery, a 20 lb sandbag, two 36" x 2" x 10" pieces of lumber, a 25 lb blast shield and itself through a 1" restriction. Fun!
@@AlexLTDLX yup, even if it only hits 75-80% output (vs input power)
its darn sure going to blow out some diapers! also been watching some BREW2L, the foxbody with the belt driven supercharger may be lower pressure, but physically/solidly connected to engine rpm its just about ALWAYS pushing that same amount of boost, like the electric will do.
definitely think a "drop it in" go-cart side project would be fun+funny.
What is the kv rating stated from supplier?. At 1v how fast no load = kv. 2. Does supplier list max rpm. This motor is core less meaning no iron that is why it does not cog. Motors configured this way have a low start current and lower starting torque which is the type that should work best for this applications requirements no cog should not have the high instant vibrations of a motor with iron core the hp max occurs at higher rpm than core motor. I tried to make similar type of setup 4 years ago stopped when it was realised the amount of power the compressor would require to get pressure at volume necessary. Getting large airflow not difficult get pressure at xxxcfm hard yet benifit of long term small accumulation of energy for short extreme burst of acceleration and its similar to that Mad Max switch O Yaaaaa kool. keep going your on the path to do what has been great in concept difficult/impossible in practical application.
If you haven't seen the drag test of the first version, it's worth watching - rather eye-opening results: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html
Motor has more horsepower than my diesel sedan.
It is kind of frightening. And we've actually seen over 40hp out of it already - 47 electrical hp, and given the motor's rated efficiency and the ESC's efficiency (along with cable losses), you're still looking at at least 44 real hp. Sort of mid boggling. Makes me want to put one of these in a bike or something.
Big rig turbos should run out of motor before they run out of air. By then you are probably going to approach the limits of the rest of the engine.
I would need to go much bigger to reach the limits of the engine (1,400hp or so); but yeah, the compressors are a bit undersized. As long as we keep showing promising results, I'll keep going bigger. Though my street car that I drag race really doesn't need more than 1,000 hp. Beyond that, I'll probably put it on a grudge car or something.
Wow
MGM have many Juicy stuff.....
Oh joy
Indeed.
nice
Thanks
That looked like Christmas morning. Do think there will be a hp level you'll want to introduce an intercooler? Maybe some meth injection? I'm pumped to see this push you into the 9s one day.
It could benefit from an intercooler above 8 psi; but not as necessary as a normal turbo or blower. A normal turbo gets heat from it's proximity to exhaust, and normal blowers are always running. As long as it goes deeper into the 9's than the Whipple did I'll be happy: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html
I wondered how long it'd be before you went to MGM. Their ESC's are amazing. I used to run one on an RC speed record car. I only hope the user interface has improved since then.
PLEASE don't put the ESC in the trunk! Those wires will be WAAAY too long!! If you HAVE to, put it behind the firewall but I'd recommend putting it as close to the motor as you practically can.
So you would run longer power cables and shorter motor cables? Why?
@@AlexLTDLX The batteries supply dc to the speed controller so only the resistance of the cables will limit power transfer. The caps limit any ac that might occur in the battery cables. Although the cables to the motor aren’t ac they’re certainly alternating and the inductance and capacitance of the cable will limit power transfer as well as its resistance. Every time there’s a transition it’ll generate a magnetic field around the cable and as that field collapses it’ll generate a back-emf in the cable. Basically that means that the signals to the motor will be dirtier the longer the cables are. This might not be a problem for the motor windings but the sensor cable signals could well be compromised and unless that cable is shielded it’ll pick up noise from the motor cables too. Also, you’ve only got two conductors between the battery and speed controller where you’ll have 6 high-current cables and the sensor cable. So, chances are it’d cost more too. I get what you’re saying about protecting the ESC from excessive heat in the engine compartment but that’s a problem that can be solved fairly easily.
I find it hard to believe a tiny motor like that has more horsepower than I had in my 1967 VW Beetle or my 1960 Austin Healey Sprite.
Let's see an electric car conversion using that motor!
40kw is peak power for some seconds, continues is only 1/4 of that.
Lol my ninja 500 make about 60hp that sad
Blows my mind too.
DONT MOUNT THAT ESC THAT FAR AWAY FROM THE MOTOR!! You just need to shield it with gold foil and mount it close to the motor
That's pretty much exactly the opposite of what MGM is telling me to do. And I do know that long power leads put a lot of stress on the ESC capacitor bank and power stage.
That's a very bad idea! You NEED the controller as close to the motor as you can possibly get it. AKA, put bullets on the ends of the controller phase wires and plug them directly into the motor...that's your maximum phase wire length! Expect that voltage drop to be more like 40v if you put it in your trunk. I don't know exactly since your wire lengths are unknown and I don't know the motor, but it will be a lot and that's just the voltage drop issue. Notice how Tesla puts their inverters AT the motor. Lengths are 6 or 8 inches at most. You really don't want long phase wires! At the amperage you are estimating, the inductance will be crazy high in the wires. If you can get the controller wires down to 6" or less, that's your best bet.
***
Motor and magnet design defines how hard they are to turn by hand. You really don't want a motor that magnetically cogs and is hard to turn. This requires more phase amps to overcome. I have a large Russian made outrunner that is like this motor...very easy to turn and yet is quite powerful!
Why? Long power cables are the kiss of death to the power stage and the capacitor banks. In doing probably too much research and actual empirical testing, I've found if your motor is sensored, then long motor cables are the way to go. FWIW, MGM told me to keep the power cables short and make the motor cables as long as I want.
@@AlexLTDLX
Best thing I can tell you is that you'll find out soon enough. Go for it...make those phase wires really long and see what happens. IF you are seeing large voltage drops on your DC cables, you need larger cables. If you look at how Tesla does it, their phase wires are very short and their battery wires are long. There's really good reasons for this. Just me personally, but I'll copy what the premier electric car manufacturer on the planet does before I copy an RC parts company!
hi watch your videos and if you want to measure the psi put an air flow meter in place you can then measure the resistance on the air flow meter that will tell you how much psi it can make put it before the air filter. you need to measure the amount of suck you have and not trying to measure turbo output as that be false.
Are you 01?
I'm old. I don't know what that means. I can tell you I'm not number 6. Google, "The Prisoner." The greatest TV show ever made. It was so good, it's the only show the Beatles ever licensed their music to.
@@AlexLTDLX What is your background with electrical
Just 17 HP stop
We already hit over 40 hp in garage testing: th-cam.com/video/Azeaf6WVPfQ/w-d-xo.html and running less than full power, on an actual car making boost and supporting about 657hp (flywheel) we hit 35 hp: th-cam.com/video/7cCSbogg-AI/w-d-xo.html Remember 1hp = 746 watts.
I hate to break this to you but lehner motors are over priced junk. I used three of them and all three failed. The rotor is not bonded to the shaft well. Tp power motors are much better. MGM controllers are junk too. I used to use both of those in high Rc boats. Good luck with warranty on either of them when they fail. They do both look sweet tho, and the low rpm control of the mgm is impressive.
We'll find out soon enough I guess.
Speach less.. woww
Tesla motor for a turbo 😜
Lol
Sell it to us already lok
Do the damage.
Well, something will happen. I'm not sure what yet. But something significant will occur. I promise you that.
Your motor leads are too long.You better read their specs.I smoked two of those bad boys already.You know how expensive they are coupled with shipping and customs.I was gonna send them back to fix and Fed Ex wanted 480 bucks to do it
They repeatedly told me to run long motor leads over long battery leads. Besides which, long battery leads put a lot of stress on the ESC capacitor bank and power stages. I guess we'll see.
you finally copied me haha
There is no such thing as an electric turbo. You show an electric supercharger.
th-cam.com/video/QheFyxAWT88/w-d-xo.html