unless you are using a camleback, which isn't UCI legal, and if you aren't racing you should be carrying more than all that weight saved in a saddlebag/toolkit, you basically said you are trying to save a maximum of 45 grams for your 15-25 mile maximum rides
I'm surprised to see a clickbait title and clickbait thumbnail on this channel. The weight savings wasn't free like it says in your title, obviously, since the bulk of it came from those two new Schwalbe Aerothan inner tubes which sell for £27.99 each on your website (£55.98 [$70.81 USD at the current exchange rate] total, not including whatever taxes and shipping costs may be added to that when someone orders them from your website). As for the thumbnail, the total weight savings was -250 grams, which is half of the "-500G" that you wrote in huge font on the thumbnail.
Think it this way, the inner tube is something that's destined to be replaced from overtime. If when that unfortunate time comes and you made this wise choice to choose a lighter one (you have to replace it won't you?), then this should be considered a free saving.
@@xuchenglin6256 "If when that unfortunate time comes and you made this wise choice to choose a lighter one, then this should be considered a free saving." No, that doesn't make any sense at all. Those Aerothan TPU inner tubes are about 7 times more expensive than the ordinary butyl rubber inner tubes that he replaced, therefore it wasn't free at all; not even close. Your reasoning would only make sense if the much lighter Aerothan TPU inner tubes were the same price as butyl rubber inner tubes, _and_ if the inexpensive inner tubes he already had were at the end of their usable lifespan (which can be many years).
once you remove the bottlecages, there is no point in riding this bike. you should take hydration more seriously if you want to make your riding at all enjoyable. but you do you i guess
The best advice in this whole video is to thread a nut onto a screw or bolt before cutting it, because it chases the cut end when you unscrew it. This is just a great tip for home mechanics and tinkerers, and took me a while to figure out on my own.
You could pretty easily get rid of the barrel adjuster for the front derailleur. I ditched mine years ago not for weight weenieing but rather because I couldn't be bothered splicing one in when I was redoing the noodles. I've never missed having one, I just adjust the derailleur once when I install the cable by tweaking the cable's position in and out of the pinch bolt, and it never drifts out of adjustment. Also not to nit-pick but the Schwalbe tubes are around $32 each list price, so $64 is a fair chunk of money and about 10% the price of the whole bike, which is pretty far from free.
The newer Shimano 105 and "higher" front derailleurs (I'm not familiar with other brands) have a built-in adjustment screw so the inline adjuster is completely useless with those, anyway.
Well I found the opposite... When I discovered that when the FD won't send the chain towards the bigger chainring all I need to do is a small twist of that barrel while riding (no need to stop) then perfect shift again, I just can't live without it. Before I mastered this "craft" the FD out of alignment is such a PITA that usually I'll just live with it during the ride, or multiple rides till I find time to fix it. I too thought that barrel is useless because when you fix that on a work stand you just do it from the bolt as you said. When you are not actively pedaling the adjustment of this barrel is not very intuitive, it will be hard to get when it's at the correct position because you don't have a spinning crank. But while riding, this works like a charm... You twist it while pedaling, till the chain shifts, and now you are at the perfect position. I have to say that the purpose of this FD barrel is different than the RD one at the RD. I believe the purpose of its existence is to fix it on the go in situations like races. (just think about this, before electronics the pros will need it for race, it's faster than a bike change, and solved FD issue 100%, probably that's why and how you are supposed to use it.)
68kg rider. Drop 250grams nd off a 9kg bike. System Weight goes from 76kg to 75.75kg That is a 0.03% system weight reduction. On climbs you will go 0.03% faster, accelerations will be 0.03% higher. Flat and downhills no improvement.
That's like saying it will only be 20% harder to walk up a hill carrying something that is 20% of your weight. Go grab a weight and see how true it is.
I sat here saying to my monitor, get TPU tubes! I'm using RideNow (Asian) TPU tubes. They work perfectly well and seem very durable. Nothing wrong with making one's bike lighter and cleaner, so great job there. But others will also note that the rider's weight is a much larger (he-he) factor. In my best cycling shape I weigh about 160 pounds (72.6 kg). Currently I'm at 173 pounds (78.5 kg). Historically, I can shave off those nearly six kilos in 10 weeks just by getting off this chair and onto my bike for 90 minutes or so six days a week...turning the pedals instead of wrenches.
Those inner tubes are quite expensive may as well swap out those tyres for something like Schwalbe Pro1 for another 100g saving then carbon railed seat and then some Ritchey Logic WCS alloy bars and stem you would probably be under 8kg🙂
Great vid, not sure I’ll go for all the tips for my 11kg gravel/road stealth bomber, but interesting all the same (especially the tubes). FWIW, I’ve lost 12kg of lard since I started taking cycling more seriously again 16 months back. It’s always the rider that’s the heaviest element. Thanks, enjoying the channel and workmanship.
And why not put a slotted supperlight chain on while it was off... Likewise the tyres aren't hugely light, and the saddle must weigh a ton. I reckon there's easily another 500g there without breaking sweat and overtrimming gear cables for 8g...
Great video, I know there is lots you can do, but, if you remove the red trim piece off the back of the saddle you can cut 10-12g, also, recommend a titanium bolt kit for the stem bolts and the head set bolt should be titanium too, it looks nicer and is a lot lighter and won’t rust.
Whenever I buy a new bike, I do my 3 low-hanging fruits for weight-reduction. 1. I swap the tubes out for 28g TPU tubes; that typically saves 80-100g per tire, 160-200g total. 2. I swap the saddle out for a carbon railed padded Koveclo saddle (~114g Prologo Dimension mimic); depending on the stock saddle, that typically saves about 150g. 3. I swap the quick releases for 50g/pair titanium quick releases, which typically saves about 75g. The total is about 400g off from my automatic 3 go-tos and I get those 3 parts all from Aliexpress only during massive inventory dump sales when I hord dozens of each paying exactly $1.79 per tube, $4.49 per QR set, and $8.09 per saddle, which is about a third their normal price. So the triple weight loss treatment costs me about $18 including tax. I only chop the bar tape if it's very fat and sometimes, I find that it's because someone put gel pads under the wrap; tossing those typically saves another 160g. I don't usually see Cannondale's incredibly heavy and stupid barstop design used but when I do, I immediately swap them (save them for a build that's too heavy to care about 20 grams) for the 5g plastic ones. I wouldn't take out bottle cage bolts or shorten cables because that's a lot of work or loss of function for like 8 grams of weight loss. It's not worth it to me.
I am absolutely amazed by how similar my own go-to weight reductions would be. However, this exact saddle's plastic base (just by the pressure relief channel) cracked under my not-that-fat 80 kg ass within the first100km ride. Have you ever encountered a failure of such a kind? The seat was super comfy, incredibly light and I am still itching to get another one :)
@@creoloneee No, I'm actually 85-87kg. Maybe you're a more aggressive rider; maybe you got a weak saddle or batch. Maybe they improved it little by little but it never happened to me.
I shaved 10kg of my system weight, believe it or not. Took me 6 months, had to eat a lot of vegetables, and I had to give up beer, but it was a cheap upgrade for more speed!
Cut the saddle if its more than 10cm in the frame, Kalloy uno stem (aliexpress special is very light 120ish grams, cheap and my 90 kilos didn't have a problem for years), conti gp5000 are very good and lighter than whatever manufacturer put on, carbon bottle cages, lighter saddle, lighter bars all these upgrade are cheapish and can save a ton of weight. As a big rider i can lose 20kilos but tinkering on the bike makes me happy.
I was a bit surprised to see the bottle cages going. I know this was only an exercise in weight saving but they are a completely necessary weight to have on any bicycle.
I agree. In addition, you can save a lot of weight by being careful about which bottle cages you choose and which bolts you use. Choose the right bottle cages, bottles and bolts, and you might shave off 100 g with minimal costs.
Shorten the chain by 2 links. Should not be too much, unless you are at the max already or want to run a larger cassette in the future. Also slam that stem (a little at least). You may say it's too aggressive but honestly stretching regularly will solve that and flexibility is extremely important as you get older. Maybe soldering the cable ends instead of caps will save another 1g 🤣
Chop off the seatpost just leave the recommended insertion and leave it sharp according to your height and leg measurement same in the fork leave it as comfortable as possible leaving still a spacer for the future and you can still cut a few grams there as well.
Good video 👍 Almost all of my bolts are titanium.. but I only use one bottlecage so I have two extra titanium bolts on the bike.. which I immediately go to remove 😁
change that massive silly cassette for an 11-25, and use an alloy ultegra lockring. There's 100g+ saved. That cast iron-railed saddle is about 300g too. Put on an old SLR 135. They are cheap as chips now, because we are told we need saddles with the bollock slot.
Well done dudes.. great savings.. another great weight saving the wheel skewers 😊 ❤ love my cannondales 😊 great series look forward to more on this one.. Pete 🚴🏻👍
you will have to put a plastic sticker on the head tube to prevent that left shifter cable from rubbing into the paint when turning the handlebars to the right. Outside of that you did an amazing job and the bike looks pristine
Omg this is an awesome video. Can you do two more follow up videos. Second one to be replacing as many bolts and nuts as possible with lightweight ones, alloy or titanium. Third video to ride that bike in normal road conditions. Weight it. Then ride in wet conditions and then weight it. Love to see how much savings you can make by keeping your bike clean. Fourth video perhaps to see the same video but having hot wax the chain. How much it would save by having a non stick chain. And maybe we can see the benefit of the Autoglym on how much sticks on the frame!
I have a laughably heavy commuting bike 🚲. I've already removed 48kg from me and I'm considering losing another 8kg. Even with a bike as heavy as mine, 48kg isn't just a weight saving, it's the equivalent of four bikes at least.
One thing I've heard is that TPU tubes are not recommended for rim brakes due to heat issues. Have you had any problems in that regard? Are there specific TPU tubes that are better rated for that application?
Rolling mass reduction is underestimated - those TPU tubes are a much bigger upgrade than the weight will indicate alone. The time spent on the rest is a waste IMO. Inverting that Stem to get your stack height lower would gain heeps more in aero gains than what trimming cables and bar tape will do for instance.
I think a point you didn't address is that most stock bikes comes with too long cables. Probably because it's just "safer" to have it long rather than short or maybe it's just easier to cut the hoses at the same length in bulk to built different sized bikes in a batch. This could be a not so marginal saving here. Not just the weight, but also the aero. Because the complicity nature of it most people just leave it there while geeking at all the other marginal savings here and there. Though with internal cable routing this is less an issue here but for the older bikes this is one of the lowest hanging fruit out there.
Looks like when the cable housing was trimmed, the ferrules were weighed. Surely you replaced those, and they shouldn't be included in the weight savings.
Ah ha I thought so! When a Norfolk man hears a Suffolk accent it doesn't half confuse him................."He sounds Norfolk but it doesn't sound right?" lol
That saddle is probably 350g, get a lightweight carbon one for $30 and save 240g. Your QR axles are easily 65g each, buy titanium ones for $15 and save 100g. That 105 looking cassette is nearly 350g, buy a lightweight one for $50 and save 140g. Source: I'm a weightweenie and I flip 50 bikes a year and reduce all their weight for fun.
Pretty pointless. 250g will make zero difference. The watt savings in rolling resistance changing those tubes would be orders of magnitude greater than the impact of the weight savings.
I have a broken shoulder so I’m not confident slamming it until I know I can ride it, this is a new bike to me. And the seat post is on the minimum limit so stem soon, no seat post🧡
The Schwalbe Lugano Tires use 10 watt per Tire more then an upper tier but not top tier Tubeless tire. Thats 20 Watt at any speed, any gradient, any weight. Total waste of Time to reduce weight before covering basics like rolling resistance and driver position. Just get the propper stuff and dont mess around with changing Barplugs or stickers
![[UNCUT] เก็บ "สจ.โต้ง" เอี่ยวมาเฟีย รู้ตัวคนบงการ ก่อนสั่งลั่นไก I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 13 ธ.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/o-J_p62D40w/mqdefault.jpg)
Before rides I take a shit. Saves round 400grams
As a medical doctor I can assure you that, if you are an average person, you are actually saving much more 😅😂
pity you couldn't slam your stem & get rid of them spacers. I've just went back to GP5000s & latex tubes 👍🚴
Lol! Doctor approved!🧡⚙️
I have weighed myself once on a precise scale right before and after, the difference was about 750 grams 😂
Pro tips!
I do like a bit of weight saving, my biggest problem is the lump of lard on the saddle.
Same here.. If only it was so easy to drop a few kilos from that lump. 😂
@@fredflintstone4558 It is. If you know ,you know.
😂 the biggest but hardest weight saving strategy
Fully agree. Losing 2kg from the rider is way cheaper than upgrading components 😅
Change the rhythm of your trainings from time to time... It helps to shed weight .
Not sure removing bottle cages is an upgrade.
There weren't any on that frame, just the screws.
I havn't fitted bottle cages in 28 years.
@@peterwillson1355 you should do it - you will ride much faster!!! There is NO weight saving which can outweight the power loss due to dehydration
@fiddleronthebike So I'm not drinking because I don't have bottle cages ... Please put your thinking cap on.
unless you are using a camleback, which isn't UCI legal, and if you aren't racing you should be carrying more than all that weight saved in a saddlebag/toolkit, you basically said you are trying to save a maximum of 45 grams for your 15-25 mile maximum rides
Easy saving: cut the unused seatpost lenght
It’s on the minimum amount! This bike is just slightly to small for me!🧡
Im already a minimum insertion
@@TrickyTree84 HaHah! That's what She said...
@@OriginalTrev 😂. Exactly
@@BikespeedsTrimming the cables round the bars limits if you can extend the stem….
I'm surprised to see a clickbait title and clickbait thumbnail on this channel. The weight savings wasn't free like it says in your title, obviously, since the bulk of it came from those two new Schwalbe Aerothan inner tubes which sell for £27.99 each on your website (£55.98 [$70.81 USD at the current exchange rate] total, not including whatever taxes and shipping costs may be added to that when someone orders them from your website).
As for the thumbnail, the total weight savings was -250 grams, which is half of the "-500G" that you wrote in huge font on the thumbnail.
Exactly my thoughts. It was a very lame self-advertisement.
Think it this way, the inner tube is something that's destined to be replaced from overtime. If when that unfortunate time comes and you made this wise choice to choose a lighter one (you have to replace it won't you?), then this should be considered a free saving.
@@xuchenglin6256 "If when that unfortunate time comes and you made this wise choice to choose a lighter one, then this should be considered a free saving."
No, that doesn't make any sense at all. Those Aerothan TPU inner tubes are about 7 times more expensive than the ordinary butyl rubber inner tubes that he replaced, therefore it wasn't free at all; not even close.
Your reasoning would only make sense if the much lighter Aerothan TPU inner tubes were the same price as butyl rubber inner tubes, _and_ if the inexpensive inner tubes he already had were at the end of their usable lifespan (which can be many years).
We are trying to pay our bills, thanks for your support 🧡
Grams counted for weight savings when the average cyclist could stand to easily lose multiple pounds and kilos just by diet alone. Including me.
once you remove the bottlecages, there is no point in riding this bike. you should take hydration more seriously if you want to make your riding at all enjoyable. but you do you i guess
Unless you were racing hill climb
@@Dyoochoob oh sure, get rid of the brakes too then. who needs them in hillclimb
@maciejzielinski4033 I do find the brakes help to get back down the hill, to the car and a nice drink.
@maciejzielinski4033 I do find the brakes help to get back down the hill, to the car and a nice drink.
Hydration pack is more aero anyways.
The best advice in this whole video is to thread a nut onto a screw or bolt before cutting it, because it chases the cut end when you unscrew it. This is just a great tip for home mechanics and tinkerers, and took me a while to figure out on my own.
2:38 you WILL need it when a small piece of a plastic bag flies into the bottom rings and gets stuck.
You could pretty easily get rid of the barrel adjuster for the front derailleur. I ditched mine years ago not for weight weenieing but rather because I couldn't be bothered splicing one in when I was redoing the noodles. I've never missed having one, I just adjust the derailleur once when I install the cable by tweaking the cable's position in and out of the pinch bolt, and it never drifts out of adjustment.
Also not to nit-pick but the Schwalbe tubes are around $32 each list price, so $64 is a fair chunk of money and about 10% the price of the whole bike, which is pretty far from free.
The newer Shimano 105 and "higher" front derailleurs (I'm not familiar with other brands) have a built-in adjustment screw so the inline adjuster is completely useless with those, anyway.
@@erikwiseman1702 Very convenient!
Well I found the opposite... When I discovered that when the FD won't send the chain towards the bigger chainring all I need to do is a small twist of that barrel while riding (no need to stop) then perfect shift again, I just can't live without it. Before I mastered this "craft" the FD out of alignment is such a PITA that usually I'll just live with it during the ride, or multiple rides till I find time to fix it. I too thought that barrel is useless because when you fix that on a work stand you just do it from the bolt as you said. When you are not actively pedaling the adjustment of this barrel is not very intuitive, it will be hard to get when it's at the correct position because you don't have a spinning crank. But while riding, this works like a charm... You twist it while pedaling, till the chain shifts, and now you are at the perfect position. I have to say that the purpose of this FD barrel is different than the RD one at the RD. I believe the purpose of its existence is to fix it on the go in situations like races. (just think about this, before electronics the pros will need it for race, it's faster than a bike change, and solved FD issue 100%, probably that's why and how you are supposed to use it.)
No bottle cages. Think of the mass you can now lose as you sweat away with no liquids replenishment. 🙂
68kg rider. Drop 250grams nd off a 9kg bike. System Weight goes from 76kg to 75.75kg That is a 0.03% system weight reduction. On climbs you will go 0.03% faster, accelerations will be 0.03% higher. Flat and downhills no improvement.
That's like saying it will only be 20% harder to walk up a hill carrying something that is 20% of your weight.
Go grab a weight and see how true it is.
I sat here saying to my monitor, get TPU tubes! I'm using RideNow (Asian) TPU tubes. They work perfectly well and seem very durable.
Nothing wrong with making one's bike lighter and cleaner, so great job there. But others will also note that the rider's weight is a much larger (he-he) factor. In my best cycling shape I weigh about 160 pounds (72.6 kg). Currently I'm at 173 pounds (78.5 kg). Historically, I can shave off those nearly six kilos in 10 weeks just by getting off this chair and onto my bike for 90 minutes or so six days a week...turning the pedals instead of wrenches.
Do it.
Save a bit more by not capping the ends of each cable, use superglue to stop the cable fraying
Bingo. Or a spot of nail polish.
Those inner tubes are quite expensive may as well swap out those tyres for something like Schwalbe Pro1 for another 100g saving then carbon railed seat and then some Ritchey Logic WCS alloy bars and stem you would probably be under 8kg🙂
That’s coming in a wheel video! Thanks 🧡
There are Asian brands that are much less expensive
Great vid, not sure I’ll go for all the tips for my 11kg gravel/road stealth bomber, but interesting all the same (especially the tubes). FWIW, I’ve lost 12kg of lard since I started taking cycling more seriously again 16 months back. It’s always the rider that’s the heaviest element. Thanks, enjoying the channel and workmanship.
Was waiting for a flashback to the 80”s when “drillium” was the fad.
Still is.
@@returnofthenative Is it? Seems like an aerodynamic nightmare...
Oh man, I did that in 2002 on a shimano 105 crank. So, so stupid of me. Could feel it flex and my mere 60kg weight!
I changed over to ride now tubes. 36g and waaaaaay cheaper than a butyl tube
Why did you take the chain off to remove the back wheel ? 🤔
Ha ha. I was thinking the same!
Wasn't it to remove the protector?
And why not put a slotted supperlight chain on while it was off... Likewise the tyres aren't hugely light, and the saddle must weigh a ton. I reckon there's easily another 500g there without breaking sweat and overtrimming gear cables for 8g...
@@lfoster7601 don't forget he was trying to achieve weight savings without spending money
@@Nick-lm9hg Yet fitted £40 of in ner tubes? If they were "lying around" then the rest of the components can be covered by the same assumption.
Great video, I know there is lots you can do, but, if you remove the red trim piece off the back of the saddle you can cut 10-12g, also, recommend a titanium bolt kit for the stem bolts and the head set bolt should be titanium too, it looks nicer and is a lot lighter and won’t rust.
Technically that rd cable is too short right now, shimano wants a SMOOOOTH bend. Edit: cant believe bartape saving is that much
People who have their right brake lever operating the front brake use too much cable AND they have ugly and inefficient cable bends.
@@peterwillson1355 those people also often have ugly teeth
Whenever I buy a new bike, I do my 3 low-hanging fruits for weight-reduction. 1. I swap the tubes out for 28g TPU tubes; that typically saves 80-100g per tire, 160-200g total. 2. I swap the saddle out for a carbon railed padded Koveclo saddle (~114g Prologo Dimension mimic); depending on the stock saddle, that typically saves about 150g. 3. I swap the quick releases for 50g/pair titanium quick releases, which typically saves about 75g. The total is about 400g off from my automatic 3 go-tos and I get those 3 parts all from Aliexpress only during massive inventory dump sales when I hord dozens of each paying exactly $1.79 per tube, $4.49 per QR set, and $8.09 per saddle, which is about a third their normal price. So the triple weight loss treatment costs me about $18 including tax.
I only chop the bar tape if it's very fat and sometimes, I find that it's because someone put gel pads under the wrap; tossing those typically saves another 160g. I don't usually see Cannondale's incredibly heavy and stupid barstop design used but when I do, I immediately swap them (save them for a build that's too heavy to care about 20 grams) for the 5g plastic ones. I wouldn't take out bottle cage bolts or shorten cables because that's a lot of work or loss of function for like 8 grams of weight loss. It's not worth it to me.
I am absolutely amazed by how similar my own go-to weight reductions would be. However, this exact saddle's plastic base (just by the pressure relief channel) cracked under my not-that-fat 80 kg ass within the first100km ride. Have you ever encountered a failure of such a kind? The seat was super comfy, incredibly light and I am still itching to get another one :)
@@creoloneee No, I'm actually 85-87kg. Maybe you're a more aggressive rider; maybe you got a weak saddle or batch. Maybe they improved it little by little but it never happened to me.
Would love to know where I can get free innertubes.
Here I am with my bike cameras, Garmin computer, and BT speaker and two water bottle cages and water dragging me down.
lol! Best way🧡
Good job, you could’ve taken the seatpost out and cut that down to do some more weight saving😊
Possible to cut a bit of the chimney and remove few spacers?
I shaved 10kg of my system weight, believe it or not. Took me 6 months, had to eat a lot of vegetables, and I had to give up beer, but it was a cheap upgrade for more speed!
Super interesting and I'll definitely be trying some of these. Thanks.
Thanks for the support!🧡
I removed the frame and the wheels myself for ultimate weight savings ❤
Best video yet guys 😎👍🏼….. i do all my bike maintenance at home and always find your videos helpfull keep up the good work
Thanks for the kind support! Back again tonight🧡
Another awesome job. Keep cranking out informative videos; they are quite entertaining! Incredible channel.
Thanks Mark! Back tonight🧡
Nice to see you using a torque wrench, when tightening the cassette.
Great video! Maybe do a video where you show off the different tools and stuff you use when restoring a bike. That would be awesome.
Cut the saddle if its more than 10cm in the frame, Kalloy uno stem (aliexpress special is very light 120ish grams, cheap and my 90 kilos didn't have a problem for years), conti gp5000 are very good and lighter than whatever manufacturer put on, carbon bottle cages, lighter saddle, lighter bars all these upgrade are cheapish and can save a ton of weight. As a big rider i can lose 20kilos but tinkering on the bike makes me happy.
I was a bit surprised to see the bottle cages going. I know this was only an exercise in weight saving but they are a completely necessary weight to have on any bicycle.
I agree. In addition, you can save a lot of weight by being careful about which bottle cages you choose and which bolts you use. Choose the right bottle cages, bottles and bolts, and you might shave off 100 g with minimal costs.
Thank you! Glad to see alot of people are interested in this sort of stuff!
Cheers!
It was a fun challenge to get an easy video out, more coming like this🧡
Nice work, I've done all that to my Cannondale, except the inner tubes,and it still weighs 9.4 kg.Not a piece of carbon fibre in site .
Who needs to drink water on a bike anyways. Unheard of...
Shorten the chain by 2 links. Should not be too much, unless you are at the max already or want to run a larger cassette in the future. Also slam that stem (a little at least). You may say it's too aggressive but honestly stretching regularly will solve that and flexibility is extremely important as you get older. Maybe soldering the cable ends instead of caps will save another 1g 🤣
Chop off the seatpost just leave the recommended insertion and leave it sharp according to your height and leg measurement same in the fork leave it as comfortable as possible leaving still a spacer for the future and you can still cut a few grams there as well.
Good video 👍
Almost all of my bolts are titanium.. but I only use one bottlecage so I have two extra titanium bolts on the bike.. which I immediately go to remove 😁
Very short nylon screws save weight over metal ones especially if you want to perhaps use accessories occasionally for longer events
change that massive silly cassette for an 11-25, and use an alloy ultegra lockring. There's 100g+ saved. That cast iron-railed saddle is about 300g too. Put on an old SLR 135. They are cheap as chips now, because we are told we need saddles with the bollock slot.
😁"bollock slot"
When your heavy bike is 2 kg lighter than my bike lol
imagine what could you do if cut right that rear brake housing 9:44 plus No tape, plugs at all
shortened brake and shift cable housings give better performance aand save weight? sweet
great website,Sir
Seatpost and fork length cutting could also be a good addition to the weight savings
Well done dudes.. great savings.. another great weight saving the wheel skewers 😊 ❤ love my cannondales 😊 great series look forward to more on this one.. Pete 🚴🏻👍
Thanks for all your support Pete 🧡
You didnt cut the seatpost? 😝
i didnt go to TPU yet, Maybe i need to cut some cables and hosing.
Will cut short the bartape. Thanks for the tips !! 👍
The seat list was at the end of its travel already, glad you enjoyed the video 🧡
you will have to put a plastic sticker on the head tube to prevent that left shifter cable from rubbing into the paint when turning the handlebars to the right. Outside of that you did an amazing job and the bike looks pristine
Omg this is an awesome video.
Can you do two more follow up videos.
Second one to be replacing as many bolts and nuts as possible with lightweight ones, alloy or titanium.
Third video to ride that bike in normal road conditions. Weight it. Then ride in wet conditions and then weight it. Love to see how much savings you can make by keeping your bike clean.
Fourth video perhaps to see the same video but having hot wax the chain. How much it would save by having a non stick chain. And maybe we can see the benefit of the Autoglym on how much sticks on the frame!
We will be doing a series like that across the next months 🧡
I have a laughably heavy commuting bike 🚲. I've already removed 48kg from me and I'm considering losing another 8kg. Even with a bike as heavy as mine, 48kg isn't just a weight saving, it's the equivalent of four bikes at least.
feels like loosing 500g of bodyweight is less effort 😜
Why not do both ?
It is not the same
That's 3k calories!
I wouldn’t want my seat bolt flush tbh. Should have a couple threads poking out.
We actually had 2 but couldn’t quite show it on camera 🧡
W H Y ??????????
@@truthseeker8483 WHY so many ?????????
@@Chunky246 WHY so CHUNKY??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Great video as always, cheers.
Which cable cutters/crimping tool are you using? Is it
a park-tool tool?
Park tool, available on our website 🧡
One thing I've heard is that TPU tubes are not recommended for rim brakes due to heat issues. Have you had any problems in that regard? Are there specific TPU tubes that are better rated for that application?
TPU inner tubes with thicker walls can be used in rim brake wheels. Tubolito and RideNow (can't recall for this one) have two variants for this.
Some of what you have done also is more aero winter win
Great video sometimes it’s the simple things Keep it up simon😎
We needed a simple video that week and it was an interesting topic to try! Thank you thank you 🧡
Yep! Attention to detail is very worthwhile.
Neat little video, Lee. Thanks for the lesson in saving weight. 😊
Back tonight! Thanks Todd🧡⚙️
@@Bikespeeds looking forward to the new video. Thanks Lee. I hope you are doing well.
Changing the inner tubes saves rotational weight. Good for hill climbs. Everything else gains very little.
Can't work out why you took the chain off...presumably you know you don't need to break the chain to remove the rear wheel?😄
Loved this video guys.....
Simple, practical, very cost reasonable.....chapeau! 👏. Enjoy the TDF if you are following 👍. Have a great weekend !🍻
It was a simple video when we’ve been having a nightmare filming but a great big one out tonight!🧡
Grand, can't wait gents! 👏@Bikespeeds
Wow, amazing, so many incrimental savings end up adding up nicely, thanks.
It was a fun challenge that certainly shows that it all adds up 🧡
Rolling mass reduction is underestimated - those TPU tubes are a much bigger upgrade than the weight will indicate alone. The time spent on the rest is a waste IMO. Inverting that Stem to get your stack height lower would gain heeps more in aero gains than what trimming cables and bar tape will do for instance.
He got injured from a bike crash, so that is probably not yet on the cards. But yes, not only it saves weight, but gives a more aero position.
@@aitorbleda8267didnt see anything about a crash/injury - its horrible coming back after 😢
Seatpin and Saddle can save a lot replacing with lighter ones.
Absolutely! We will be doing so🧡
I think a point you didn't address is that most stock bikes comes with too long cables. Probably because it's just "safer" to have it long rather than short or maybe it's just easier to cut the hoses at the same length in bulk to built different sized bikes in a batch. This could be a not so marginal saving here. Not just the weight, but also the aero. Because the complicity nature of it most people just leave it there while geeking at all the other marginal savings here and there. Though with internal cable routing this is less an issue here but for the older bikes this is one of the lowest hanging fruit out there.
My gear is 14Kg 😬. But I'm 8Kg overweight when I started (last year) bike commuting and now I lost 7Kg so I think that also weight saving for free?
You could mount 23 mil tyres which saves ~100-150g over the 2 of them.
On the way in a separate wheel video soon🧡
saddle looks heavy too, nice video!
TPU tubes should be inflated slightly so they have shape before fitting...saves them getting pinched/punctured....😀
i like weight saving videos , i hope there will be more videos like this
Thanks! More on the way🧡
Great, thank you will check out the site
Thank you!🧡
Next: do Crr savings
Also change the steel screws to titanium.
Looks like when the cable housing was trimmed, the ferrules were weighed. Surely you replaced those, and they shouldn't be included in the weight savings.
Tyres next? Maybe save weight and roll faster? Crankset aswell as per the thumbnail and u could have the number starting with a 7 👍
All on the way!🧡
How to lose body weight to make your Bike even lighter. Im talking about kilograms 🤣
in my case, about 3 bikes worth...
Nice one Lee
Thank you Sandy!🧡
Interested in your dialect, obviously a Southerner but where are you from?
Suffolk 🧡
Ah ha I thought so! When a Norfolk man hears a Suffolk accent it doesn't half confuse him................."He sounds Norfolk but it doesn't sound right?" lol
That saddle is probably 350g, get a lightweight carbon one for $30 and save 240g.
Your QR axles are easily 65g each, buy titanium ones for $15 and save 100g.
That 105 looking cassette is nearly 350g, buy a lightweight one for $50 and save 140g.
Source: I'm a weightweenie and I flip 50 bikes a year and reduce all their weight for fun.
Pretty pointless. 250g will make zero difference. The watt savings in rolling resistance changing those tubes would be orders of magnitude greater than the impact of the weight savings.
remove the rear brakes and use only the front brakes ?
remove the saddle and seat post don't need those either
@@phililpb that's for unicycles.
I've done all of these. 👍 But, replacing the tubes? Not free. Otherwise pretty accurate 😊
2:40 spoke-protector? "dork-disk"!
You need to inflate the Aerothans a bit to a ring shape before putting them in
You didn’t include the weight savings of the narrower bars?
Could've saved a bit more if you used superglue on the cable ends instead of the metal caps
Pressed play... Here we go!!
You could remove the headset top cap as well.
Only use carbonated water when riding since it contains air bubbles it's lighter!
lol!🧡
You don't need six disk bolt screws?
Now change handlebars, stem, seatpost and seat for carbon ones and you'll save more than a kilo 😀
On the way!🧡
@@Bikespeeds keep us updated
Wonder what cutting the steerer tube and slamming the stem would of saved.
Also cutting the seatpost depending on how long it is in total…
Cheers
I have a broken shoulder so I’m not confident slamming it until I know I can ride it, this is a new bike to me. And the seat post is on the minimum limit so stem soon, no seat post🧡
The black plastic bar end caps look better than the Cannondale ones.
My bike is ultegra but my waistline is Claris 😢😅
Lol🧡⚙️
Interesting, but how can you ride seriously with no liquids/ water bottle cages?
If you swap those heavy Schwalbe Lugano's for a pair of Pro One's you will not only save 200 gr but win a lot of comfort and speed!
go on a diet .... you can surely loose 10-15 kg and that will make a huge difference.
The Schwalbe Lugano Tires use 10 watt per Tire more then an upper tier but not top tier Tubeless tire. Thats 20 Watt at any speed, any gradient, any weight. Total waste of Time to reduce weight before covering basics like rolling resistance and driver position. Just get the propper stuff and dont mess around with changing Barplugs or stickers
at the end of the day, it's the rider itself has the real free weight saving with big gains