A problem of using Fidlock botles is that is you loose one in a trip, during a ride or during a MTB Event for example you cannot use another type, a quick go to supermarket and get a isostar bottle or get an bottle from a friend/event sponsor, you need to buy a new Fidlock one. A normal bottle cage and you can use almost any other bottle
The bike industry is filled with expensive solutions in search of a problem for sure. Another example: Classified IGH. Lots of $$$ just to replace what was lost by a $30 front derailleur.
@@GiancarloBenzina Definitely the way to go, also if you want to have another bottled beverage it’s nice to have the regular water bottle holder for that and they fidlock for your water
I used to be a bike mechanic. I’ve built all my bikes, and none has internal cables. I guess none of mine ever will, especially now that I’ve been warned. I don’t know what’s so gauche about visible cables.
@@tomreingold4024 we have 2 bikes with mostly internal cables. Luckily those are not run through the stem and have internal housings that make running the cables a non-issue. I definitely don't envy mechanics before those days.
PEDROS tire levers are the most sturdy levers I’ve ever tried, wouldn’t be bothered to carry anything else. Well designed and will take on any tire without the fear of snapping or bending
The best for sure! If you're breaking pedro's it's because you're either using them wrong or simply have a terrible tire/rim match. Would just change the tires at that point !
My favorite bit of kit, is my Feedback Sports bike stand. Got it years ago, and it's been used at least 5 times a week for the last 10 years. Solid and works seemlesly. Easy to argue the first main tool anyone that owns a couple of bikes should also own.
Same here, bought it along with decent shoes and helmet when the bike I wanted was on sale at 50% off so I had some money left over. That'll probably never happen again.
Yes! I have the Pro Elite version and it's a great stand. Even for really simple tasks like a quick cleanup it's super useful. I can't believe I rode for like two years before owning a bike stand, hah.
Gonna be another vote for a top tube bag. Sunglasses, snacks, phone, money etc. It's all there, it's handy and it secure. The new Tail Fin ones look sick. This was a great video, loved Jimmy's attempts at counter points.......long story indeed
@@matthewlewis2072 I can see that, but I run a medium frame and a Topeak Fuel tank in .75L. Its not too big and I can straddle the bar with no issues. That new Tail Fin that goes all the way across would be a no go for me for sure.
Who puts sunglasses in the same bag with one's phone or any other hard item that can scratch the lens(es)? That thing has to be on your nose or tucked into your helmet. All the other stuff belongs into jersey pockets.
Another fan of top tube bag here. Puncture repair stuff and multi tool in the saddle bag, snacks, shades (in a case) and phone in top tube bag. My Domane has two bolts to secure it so no problem with it coming adrift
I am a huge fan of the Varia. I won’t ride on the road without it. But, even though it gets universal praise, I think every mention of it omits an important detail: by itself, the Varia is just a countdown to a possible collision. In order for the Varia to be truly game-changing for your safety, you need a mirror. The Varia tells you when to check that mirror so you know whether a car is giving you room.
@@WesternUranus As ever with radar critiquing, that's a false dilemma. The radar won't stop you from looking over your shoulder, and isn't a replacement for doing so. Like a mirror or helmet, it provides another layer of safety. For a specific use case, I ride in a windy area with infrequent traffic and bad roads where the shoulder is even worse. The radar lets me ride on smoother parts of the road with greater confidence, even with a howling headwind that blocks the sound of overtaking traffic. Props to Nick for pointing out this is all part of of a synergistic system.
@@donjuandeaustria1213 Fair points. I ride mostly in urban area where you hear much more of what's coming behind so I don't feel a great a need for it.
@@donjuandeaustria1213 exactly the point so many refuse to understand! I ride mostly rural low-ish traffic areas and can use the entire lane confidently then quickly move to the shoulder on a varia alert several seconds before I can hear vehicle noise. It makes any decent cyclist appear more considerate to drivers, and we all need that.
There are a lot of insanely expensive things that you can buy for bike and not enjoy. But there are such little things that you take in your hands and enjoy like a child. My favorite one: High Above - The Hot Pocket (sm size), it lives in my jersey pocket and has survived everything, dirt, water, sand, drops and looks like the day I bought it. It is waterproof and weighs only 30g. Love it. I have many tools, but my favorite is Wera Zyklop Mini 1/4" Ratchet, best for bike service. I use it with a bit extension for convenience.
My new favorite product is the Tyre Glider. Makes installing and removing the tires on my setup an absolute breeze. Maybe one of the best cycling related products I've ever purchased. Now, I don't dread removing my tubeless tires, cleaning them and replacing the sealant every couple of months.
Lots of things to think about for upgrades and general maintenance! It was awesome to meet Jimmi and Nick at Backyard last Wednesday, thanks both for taking the time to chat! And Jimmi, thanks for the Sycamore Gap recommendation, we enjoyed the walk!
My favourite stuff is Tubolito inner tubes. I bought mine two years ago and had only one puncture since (which I patched - I've put thousands of kilometers into that tube since and it's still going strong). These are especially useful as spares. I carry way more stuff in my small saddle bag since I replaced a bulky butyl tube with one.
So i ride enduro FS bikes, i keep a tubolito on my framestrap, theyre phenomenal, ive got home 3 times with the tube as a last resort. get home, remove it, and replace it on the frame for the next flat.
For me the Topeak Ratchet Rocket Lite NTX+ is the best bit of kit. Its like £55 for a torq kit, all the bits you'll need, and its light and portable. Goes everywhere with me - hell I even used it to build furniture around the house!
I prefer 2x. It’s nice to have a small chainring to shift into for steep climbs. Also, I’m no expert, but I can imagine the chain would wear quicker on a 1x because of the greater angle when at higher or lower gears.
Actually, you have that back to front. It's the 1x that has the better chain alignment because it would it in the middle of a 2x so a 2x creates more chain wear because the chain is working harder. This extended even further when the frame is designed around a 1x system only,
@deadhead 1x has greater frictional loses. Plus who wants giant jumps in a cassette? I also miss 2x when riding mtb and you come to a quick punchy climb. It was so much easier to dump a chainring then it is to down shift 3,4,5 gears.
I really like water bottles. trying to carry water in my jersey pockets just never worked out for me, it would always escape or slosh out, and carrying it in my mouth felt really inconvenient, not too mention I could never hold enough for a long ride
Don't confuse personal preferences for facts. A lot or road riders (and gravel riders) love and prefer the closer-spaced gear ratios you can get with an FD. And setting up an FD is a doddle.
Dynaplug Racer plug kit would be in my top 10 for sure. Along with a top tube bag I have a small Apidura race frame bag which is really neat and adds loads more storage for a bigger waterproof/more food/gold bars, whatever!
I got timed using a dynaplug on a ride back in April - 1 min 27. And that was with me adding some contact glue/cement around it which I always do. If anyone can change an inner tube quicker than that, I'd love to see it!
Shimano 12x mechanical MTB gears. They just do the job, they are fairly inexpensive if you don‘t buy XTR and there is very little to improve. Wera A6 torque wrench. Takes hex bits directly which is a lot more useful on a bike than 1/4“ or 3/8“ and makes it very compact so that you can reach bolts in tight spaces like in suspension linkages.
My current favourite bike product is luggage too. Brooks scape compact handlebar bag. Waterproof, carries a laptop or enough for an overnight stay. Quick release and has a shoulder strap. The corner stays can also be used to tether a couple of small carabiners to hold a jacket in place if the bag is full. Not perfect, but still awesome.
Why would an amateur not need all the gears a two-by gives? I'm using my 34-32 and 50-11 and I don't even live in seriously hilly terrain. So unless you give me an 18 sprocket cassette, I'm either losing range or I have big jumps (and even the 11-34 jumps are bordeline sometimes).
For me, spinning the correct gear for the circumstances is one of the joys in cycling. I would be terribly annoyed being forced to change my pace because of bigger gaps.
''1x'' is my favourite bike product. Im one of those bikers that don't how to use 3 x at all i tend to on 3x stick to the 2nd chainring and just go up and down on the rear cassette. 1x makes it so simple that i have not to think about the 3 chainrings and its bliss just complete bliss. once i got my first 1x its been 1x ever since or converted to 1x.
@@rob-c. my mtb was 2x, still used one chainring only and just went up and down the rear cassette. if im only ever using one chainring then there ''for me'' is no need for the other chainrings to be there like on 2x or 3x so i converted my mtb to 1x and got rid of the chainring i was not using. all 3x and 2x bikes i have had have been from new are technically 1x as i only ever use 1 chainring.
@@matthewlewis2072 not really, I now they're for speed n climbing. Just that 97% of the time I'm only using one chainring when on 2x or 3x so, might as well stick with 1x
I mean, a 3x is rendered useless with the increasing range on rear casettes. You could argue about 2x being the same, but there is a point where the jumps just become too big between gears no matter how many gears you cram into the back derailleur. I can see a strong case being made for 1x on a MTB, but that's pretty much it.
When I first got into road cycling I was mentored by an ultra-distance rider who sold me on the convenience of the bento bag. As I progressed, I started riding with "real roadies" who convinced me the bento wasn't cool and I needed to shave my legs. Now, riding gravel the bento is cool again.
2:59 I've got to differ. I built my do-it-all car-replacement road bike with 1x11 after drinking the kool-aid such as Nic's selling here, but how is it the case that there's no cross-chaining with 1x drivetrains? Like, aren't you basically always cross-chaining with 1x except in the middle of the cassette? My experience was (with 1x11 44t/11-46t - so imo excellent range overall, but big gaps) on a road bike, both the top and bottom gears felt noticeably less efficient - less smooth, more gritty. Current 2x12 has a similar maximum and minimum gear setup, but feels _much_ better and not having such extreme gaps between gear ratios is really nice. I don't race but I do delivery and commute on the bike; for either use-case there's no way I'm going back to a 1x unless there's some newfangled chains that are specifically designed to flex (a lot) laterally while still being just as efficient. If you do as Nic seems to suggest and go electronic 1x on a road bike, you've paid a $1000+ premium for a much less functional product than a mechanical 2x one. If we buy this "it's simpler" argument, anyone not racing ought to just ride lightweight single-speeds; for me, road bike 1x is the worst of all worlds. I just don't see where the difficulty actually is in setting up a modern front mech; they're dead simple and work great already.
I find that 9 speed is the maximum window for cassette width in order to not have significant crosschaining effect in 1x systems. Box groupset seems to be the perfect candidate for a wide-range 1x gear setup. Otherwise, I'd go for 1x9 11-36 on utility/city/commuter bikes and 2x for anything that needs more range.
Hahaha i just wanted to say the same. It really depends on where you live. Forget that in southern Bavaria… some flats and out of nowhere a 25% 1k climb awaits you in order to get back to flat… good luck pedalling up that hill with 48 - 30
@@veganpotterthevegan yeah but i think that’s exactly the „problem“ with 1x bikes. My gravel bike is also set up 1x. But I usually ride as fast as possible in order to get somewhere (commute, visit, etc) and even when riding my road bike recreationally or lets say Z2 I‘m still at 30kph+, I want to stay at a certain pedalling frequency which gets impossible on my gravel bike due to the big jumps (11-40 with 46 at front)
Oof bit of a controversy: Silca sealant used to eat some types of rim tape (see the WW thread about it) hope they've fixed it by now. if you're not using farsports wheels (they don't need tape) like me then it might give you a hard time. Tubeless plug: dynaplug seems to be the best. if you like expensive stuff you can carry some in your handlebar plugs as well. Fidlock: the titanium one seems to be hard to squeeze for some people as I read some reviews, but my normal (well, gravel) fidlock is also a bit hard so I don't know how it can get any harder SRAM pro bleed kit: yes please
I had the Silca soften DT Swiss tape, first time (front wheel) I thought is tape error, second time (back wheel) it as clear tape was being attacked. Those happen in about 3 months. Silca recommends tape without printing. They did mention that Stans tape worked well.
Been a pro mechanic in a shop in South Florida for 34 years, I'd agree with almost everything you've said. Only because a few of the items I haven't tried yet. Gravel bike for gravel, road and cross. 1X and wireless forever. AWS-10 lives in my shop apron with its little brother, the Stan's valve core remover, because, yeah, tubeless. Radar, radar, radar.
Gavel bike does it all, 1x front cog. MY LBS mechanic told me that if you want to commute with it, and do gravel adventure on the weekends, you'd want a 2x. Discussion followed me raising that a 36t front single cog would not let you ride with a peloton.
I like mudguards (fenders); it rains a lot where I live, and I wouldn't dream of riding a bike without them. Also, though I like bike luggage, I'm not fond of frame bags; they rub against the knees while pedaling, which is really annoying. I'm a big fan of the Tailfin Aeropack; it's light, stable, and doesn't get in the way; it just does its job without much bother.
Love White Industry hubs for how easy they are to maintain/rebuild. They roll good too. Thomson stems/posts. Lightweight, strong & I dig the machined mill marks.
My boss loves White Industries hubs, it's what he'd pick if he can only choose one hub brand. I once borrowed my ex-colleague's wheelset with a pair of T11s laced onto it and I couldn't believe how smooth it was when I coasted, it had barely any frictional drag unlike my 2008 Mavic Aksium.
We live in UK so full mud guards are a winter must! Rear ones fine but what about front wheel that kicks up just as much water/mud on to your front/frame 😂
Those mud guards you shown DO NOT protect your chain from all the stuff that the tires pick up and bottom frame gets sprayed by dirt and rocks plus it chips away your pain SLOWLY eventually you will notice it! Also does not protect my water bottles they all get sprayed with dirt! I know that because I used them on my gravel bike! I went back to the FULL mud guard and no more issues on my bike chain, or paint chipping away from my frame, and clean water bottles that I can use!
Wish I could say the same about tubeless plugs. In reality though, they rarely fixed my leaky tubeless tires reliably - be it on the gravel bike or the road bike. Usually, once sealant doesn’t seal, it’s then a matter of nursing the bike home whilst pumping up the tire every few km. The only thing that really works for me is patching the tire from the inside. For that though, I need to thoroughly clean and prepare it, which cannot really be done out on the road.
So much bike snobbery in this 😂 I can relate The Garmin Varia and anything Park Tool 👌 If you road ride in the country at all, especially by yourself, you owe it to yourself to get a radar. It made my country rides so much more relaxing!
I bought my first Silca product last year the "mattone seatpacK" love it. Actually, I found out this year they are based in my city as well, their warehouse is located across the street from a gas station I stop at sometimes on my route at work.
I'm a recent convert to 1x after always having had triple chainrings. As a below average (but v experienced) cyclist I can safely say that I do not find that gaps between gears too big at all.
The only time I miss the 2 by on my roadbike is when riding my gravel bike down a steep hill near me-on the road bike I can power all the way down, on the gravel bike I spin out about half way-so I freewheel-no problem……..
1x is miserable when I’m out trying to do workouts. There’s just no getting around the fact that 1x has much larger jumps between gears or doesn’t have enough range.
A 38t with a 10-51 is enough for most. 140mm in the front, 150mm at the back, 203mm discs all around, some 55mm race kings or 65mm pirellis and off you go. Oh wait, wrong audience. Never mind. You roadies will understand in about 3-8 years, when real racing tech trickles down to your kind of smooth surface riding 😊 too, cant wait for the e-tour d-e franc-e where they actually go around france and not just somewhere random. Racing e-mtbs uphill/upmountain is awesome btw. Check it out.
Silca Tattico mini pump, JANDD handlebar bags for the good price, Specialized Airtool floor pump, JUIN Tech GT hydro mech brakes, and the champ of them all a Lumos helmet. Higher up lights seem more visible, only one thing to charge, and your lights are always on you.
The list for copy and paste adding to shopping/present list etc: Fenwicks All Conditions Chain Lube Biodegradable bike chain lube Fidlock Water bottle Vielo r+1 Seatpost Wireless Droper Seatposts Silca Tubless Sealant 1x Drivetrains Gravel Frames Intergrated/Internal cable routing Wide Tyres Fendor Bendor J Guillem Atalaya Frameset Sram Removable Batteries Sram & Campagnolo bleed kits Park Tool AWS-10 Ceramic Speed Wheel Bearing Press Endro XD15 bearings Bike Radars e.g Garmin Varia Time Carbon Layup Tubeless Plug & Boot Kit Bike Luggage full of South African money and choclate :D
I got the Park Tool multi allen key set after my cheapo one literally fell apart and all the bits went everywhere. It wasn't much more expensive and has been rock solid
Hmm... favourite bike products. Generator hubs and lighting René Herse tyres Proper aluminium mudguards Gevenalle shifters Rain capes (currently a Cleverhood but others are available) Five Ten shoes Wool jerseys for winter cycling
I don't think is about what other think, but about the road crap one must put up with. Especially on roads full of oil and manure. No issues if anyone wants to ride without on their own, but definitely if I am sitting behind their wheel getting that crap all over my face.
I was suprised to learn that Fidlock come from my hometown - when their regional manager showed up in my store where I work. To be a bit more specific: my parents are living a 10 min. bike ride away.
Super interesting list, but you'll take my road and gravel front mech from my cold dead hands.... One by is fine for the MTB, but, I love the range and small steps that I get from having a 2x setup.
Still gonna disagree on the front mech part... 2x or heck 3x is the way to go for a beginner if the terrain is hilly or you carry a lot of weight. Or if you are on a budget In my case putting a big ish rig in the front would make me run that nice smooth 80rpm on the flat but wouldn't allow me to climb very well (execpt putting a full dessert plate in the back put that ain't cheap if you want good gear repartition). A smaller one would make me spin out on the flat... But climb well
So much misunderstanding in the comments about 1x groupsets. For those naysayer that have never ridden them, please check out the actual gear ratios you get on your bikes: You'll find that there is overlap and duplication in 2/3x group sets and that you hardly miss out at all on the most commonly required gears with a 1x groupset. My 1x is actually lower geared and easier up hills than my 3x and I never find myself wishing I had an in between gear. Where some of you might find you miss out, if anywhere, is with slightly bigger gaps at the top end but let's face it, most of us only use those gears when caning it downhill.
It's not about overlap, it's the huge jumps between gears. Up to six teeth difference between the smaller gears just feels like you're riding a three-speed gear hub. One gear is too small, the other too big and nothing in between. Also, 1x is so ugly, that silly small ring in front with those pizza plates at the rear just look stupid.
Lake shoes is my top product. I have rather wide feet and they are perfect. No messing around buying shoes online(I’m a uk 13 shops don’t stock them) I know what lake shoe will fit by a simple table on their website.
For a long time, my only set of allen keys was a multitool, same style as tyat AWS-10. Mine was €5 at decathlon and I still have it. The only reason I don't use it all the time anymore because I always forget where I put it...
From this list, for me it is my TIME Alpe d'Huez: it is absoultely great! And no integrated cable routing through the handlebars ;) apart from that, I really love my bike computer because I can go anywhere without getting lost.
FIDLOCK - the bottle and bag rattle like crazy after only 2 weeks of roadbike use. The medium bag looks giant from the outside, but is really small and has a payload of 0,7 kg ( one inner tube, small pump and multitool and you go above the payload)
I am a South African Freelance mechanic. Any suggestions on how to get into a pro team? I've been working with some local pro teams but would like to take it to an international stage. I've been working on bikes for 12 years and have been doing it full time for the last year. Any suggestions on how to further myself to get noticed by the big teams?
I have been working on bikes professionally for more than four decades. A Park Tool folding hex key?! I almost never use one. I don't have one in my on-the-bike repair kit. Single hex keys are just plain better, preferable Wera or Wiha.
Favourite bit of 'kit' ? J Guillem frameset! Since I saw that a number of videos back I was ❤❤❤ I found out, it was made not even 50 km's from my home in NL!
RIM BRAKE ROAD BIKES ....DISC FOR OFF ROAD !! HOWEVER I DO AGREE JUST GET A GRAVEL BIKE !! 1x narrow wide work awesome but on a hardtail MTB on pathways 2x to get some speed out of it !! PS hybrid city bikes with flatbars n gravel tires are a great starting point for new cyclists !!!!
I'm not a skinny road rider or a manic gravel rider (Although i do ride gravel from time to time), so my favourite bike products are, My Silka tool kit - awesome quality and not too heavy; my Brooks B17 special saddle, my Carradice seat bags (I have two different sizes) and mu Hope disc brakes - they have saved me from a few scrapes!
The only thing I really disagree with is buying a gravel bike as your do it all bike. Most cross bikes can fit some good size tires, and the geometry is more similar to a road bike
![[Full] 4 ต่อ 4 Celebrity EP.910 | 22 ก.ย. 67 | one31](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4TR3MVpOiw8/mqdefault.jpg)
Yes that should read "Time" not "Look" at 10mins19
Shouldn’t have gone out with Lewis before editing
Disagree with the 28 mm tire
I have 25 and it’s just perfect
A problem of using Fidlock botles is that is you loose one in a trip, during a ride or during a MTB Event for example you cannot use another type, a quick go to supermarket and get a isostar bottle or get an bottle from a friend/event sponsor, you need to buy a new Fidlock one. A normal bottle cage and you can use almost any other bottle
And they cost about a billion pounds rather than £2 like mine.
I’ve seen a boa type thing so you can do that which you can just carry easy
The bike industry is filled with expensive solutions in search of a problem for sure.
Another example: Classified IGH. Lots of $$$ just to replace what was lost by a $30 front derailleur.
Been using them for Enduro MTB for around 5 years now, never lost one. This is a non-issue.
@@GiancarloBenzina Definitely the way to go, also if you want to have another bottled beverage it’s nice to have the regular water bottle holder for that and they fidlock for your water
I'm so glad he said what he said about intergated cable routing, coz its a nightmare. It will single handedly keep bike mechanics employed!
I used to be a bike mechanic. I’ve built all my bikes, and none has internal cables. I guess none of mine ever will, especially now that I’ve been warned. I don’t know what’s so gauche about visible cables.
@@tomreingold4024 I think my next bike will be a rim brake bike for this reason
@@tomreingold4024 not even integrated into the downtube? Or do you refer to the head tube mainly?
@@tomreingold4024 we have 2 bikes with mostly internal cables. Luckily those are not run through the stem and have internal housings that make running the cables a non-issue. I definitely don't envy mechanics before those days.
For gravel/adventure type riding, having it all inside does mean less snagging with bar bags, or chances of damage, but if it *does* go wrong, whew!
Best cycle accessory ever is a mirror. Since I fitted one, I've never looked back!
Groan...
0:09 - Fenwicks
0:31 - Fidlock
1:13 - Vielo Seatpost
1:44 - Wireless dropper seatpost
2:18 - Silca Sealant
2:59 - 1X drivetrains
4:00 - Gravel frame
4:34 - Internally routed cables
5:44 - Fendor Bendor
7:02 - Sram Removable Batteries
7:48 - Park Tool
8:10 - Ceramic Speed
8:44 - Enduro Bearings
9:37 - Bike Radars
10:13 - TIME Carbon
10:47 - Tubeless Plug & Boot Kit
11:25 - Bike Luggage
Ehrenmann
THANKS
5:02 - Wide tyres/tires, couldn’t make out the name of the gravel tyres. Anyone know the name?
Found them! - Teravail Rutland, a good looking tyre, I guess you get what you pay for 🙃
Missed 6:32
PEDROS tire levers are the most sturdy levers I’ve ever tried, wouldn’t be bothered to carry anything else. Well designed and will take on any tire without the fear of snapping or bending
Try the Silca ones!
We have broken a few Pedros at our shop.
@@scottbaker5851 they have a lifetime warranty.
The best by far!!
The best for sure! If you're breaking pedro's it's because you're either using them wrong or simply have a terrible tire/rim match. Would just change the tires at that point !
My favorite bit of kit, is my Feedback Sports bike stand. Got it years ago, and it's been used at least 5 times a week for the last 10 years. Solid and works seemlesly. Easy to argue the first main tool anyone that owns a couple of bikes should also own.
Feedback Sprint stand fo sure.
I got a Sprint stand and was so impressed by it I ended up getting one of their regular clamp stands too. Use both regularly.
Yeah iv got the Pro Elite. Quality bit of kit for sure 😎
Same here, bought it along with decent shoes and helmet when the bike I wanted was on sale at 50% off so I had some money left over. That'll probably never happen again.
Yes! I have the Pro Elite version and it's a great stand. Even for really simple tasks like a quick cleanup it's super useful. I can't believe I rode for like two years before owning a bike stand, hah.
Gonna be another vote for a top tube bag. Sunglasses, snacks, phone, money etc. It's all there, it's handy and it secure. The new Tail Fin ones look sick. This was a great video, loved Jimmy's attempts at counter points.......long story indeed
Nope, pain in the 'nads on small frames
@@matthewlewis2072
I can see that, but I run a medium frame and a Topeak Fuel tank in .75L. Its not too big and I can straddle the bar with no issues. That new Tail Fin that goes all the way across would be a no go for me for sure.
Who puts sunglasses in the same bag with one's phone or any other hard item that can scratch the lens(es)? That thing has to be on your nose or tucked into your helmet. All the other stuff belongs into jersey pockets.
@einundsiebenziger5488
If I do put sunglasses in there they're in a cloth bag. We all do things our own way but thanks for your nice feedback
Another fan of top tube bag here. Puncture repair stuff and multi tool in the saddle bag, snacks, shades (in a case) and phone in top tube bag. My Domane has two bolts to secure it so no problem with it coming adrift
The absolute favorite thing I ride with is the Garmin Varia. Without a doubt. Hands down.
you have too much money
I am a huge fan of the Varia. I won’t ride on the road without it. But, even though it gets universal praise, I think every mention of it omits an important detail: by itself, the Varia is just a countdown to a possible collision.
In order for the Varia to be truly game-changing for your safety, you need a mirror. The Varia tells you when to check that mirror so you know whether a car is giving you room.
What happened to taking a quick glance over your shoulder every now and then ?
Great for insurance claims though
@@WesternUranus As ever with radar critiquing, that's a false dilemma. The radar won't stop you from looking over your shoulder, and isn't a replacement for doing so. Like a mirror or helmet, it provides another layer of safety. For a specific use case, I ride in a windy area with infrequent traffic and bad roads where the shoulder is even worse. The radar lets me ride on smoother parts of the road with greater confidence, even with a howling headwind that blocks the sound of overtaking traffic.
Props to Nick for pointing out this is all part of of a synergistic system.
@@donjuandeaustria1213 Fair points.
I ride mostly in urban area where you hear much more of what's coming behind so I don't feel a great a need for it.
@@donjuandeaustria1213 exactly the point so many refuse to understand! I ride mostly rural low-ish traffic areas and can use the entire lane confidently then quickly move to the shoulder on a varia alert several seconds before I can hear vehicle noise. It makes any decent cyclist appear more considerate to drivers, and we all need that.
I love how Nic gets called out on being a trendy bike snob, but I agree with just about everything on this list. Good vid. Dude's a good sport lol.
Errrr...£60 pointless water bottle system that uses only proprietary bottles...
There are a lot of insanely expensive things that you can buy for bike and not enjoy. But there are such little things that you take in your hands and enjoy like a child.
My favorite one: High Above - The Hot Pocket (sm size), it lives in my jersey pocket and has survived everything, dirt, water, sand, drops and looks like the day I bought it. It is waterproof and weighs only 30g. Love it.
I have many tools, but my favorite is Wera Zyklop Mini 1/4" Ratchet, best for bike service. I use it with a bit extension for convenience.
My new favorite product is the Tyre Glider. Makes installing and removing the tires on my setup an absolute breeze. Maybe one of the best cycling related products I've ever purchased. Now, I don't dread removing my tubeless tires, cleaning them and replacing the sealant every couple of months.
Lots of things to think about for upgrades and general maintenance! It was awesome to meet Jimmi and Nick at Backyard last Wednesday, thanks both for taking the time to chat! And Jimmi, thanks for the Sycamore Gap recommendation, we enjoyed the walk!
My favourite stuff is Tubolito inner tubes. I bought mine two years ago and had only one puncture since (which I patched - I've put thousands of kilometers into that tube since and it's still going strong). These are especially useful as spares. I carry way more stuff in my small saddle bag since I replaced a bulky butyl tube with one.
Do they keep pressure like a butyl or latex tube?
@@russellbaker4256 They're just like butyl tubes in that regard.
So i ride enduro FS bikes, i keep a tubolito on my framestrap, theyre phenomenal, ive got home 3 times with the tube as a last resort. get home, remove it, and replace it on the frame for the next flat.
The Chinese ride now version cost a few bucks and also seems to last quite well. In many cases they're cheaper than regular tubes at the bike shop
@@javiercastaneda707 I use those and theyre awesome, and super light!
For me the Topeak Ratchet Rocket Lite NTX+ is the best bit of kit.
Its like £55 for a torq kit, all the bits you'll need, and its light and portable. Goes everywhere with me - hell I even used it to build furniture around the house!
I prefer 2x. It’s nice to have a small chainring to shift into for steep climbs. Also, I’m no expert, but I can imagine the chain would wear quicker on a 1x because of the greater angle when at higher or lower gears.
Actually, you have that back to front. It's the 1x that has the better chain alignment because it would it in the middle of a 2x so a 2x creates more chain wear because the chain is working harder. This extended even further when the frame is designed around a 1x system only,
@@Roger101Watson on a 12 speed?
Concur.
If used with common sense, imho even a triple will run better chain lines than a 1x, let alone a 2x.
@deadhead 1x has greater frictional loses. Plus who wants giant jumps in a cassette? I also miss 2x when riding mtb and you come to a quick punchy climb. It was so much easier to dump a chainring then it is to down shift 3,4,5 gears.
@@Roger101Watson tests found more friction with 1x groups
I really like water bottles. trying to carry water in my jersey pockets just never worked out for me, it would always escape or slosh out, and carrying it in my mouth felt really inconvenient, not too mention I could never hold enough for a long ride
Good to know. Interestingly, you CAN store your jersey in your water bottle. You’re welcome for that helpful information.
Probably the single greatest bike product I've ever bought was a ParkTool PCS-10. Complete game changer as a home mechanic
😌
250€ lol
Can't take my eye off that blue scott rim brake bike in the background. Stunner!
All I want for Christmas is a Nick/cade/josh Reid collab 🤌
Don't confuse personal preferences for facts. A lot or road riders (and gravel riders) love and prefer the closer-spaced gear ratios you can get with an FD. And setting up an FD is a doddle.
Dynaplug Racer plug kit would be in my top 10 for sure. Along with a top tube bag I have a small Apidura race frame bag which is really neat and adds loads more storage for a bigger waterproof/more food/gold bars, whatever!
I got timed using a dynaplug on a ride back in April - 1 min 27. And that was with me adding some contact glue/cement around it which I always do.
If anyone can change an inner tube quicker than that, I'd love to see it!
Shimano 12x mechanical MTB gears. They just do the job, they are fairly inexpensive if you don‘t buy XTR and there is very little to improve.
Wera A6 torque wrench. Takes hex bits directly which is a lot more useful on a bike than 1/4“ or 3/8“ and makes it very compact so that you can reach bolts in tight spaces like in suspension linkages.
My current favourite bike product is luggage too. Brooks scape compact handlebar bag. Waterproof, carries a laptop or enough for an overnight stay. Quick release and has a shoulder strap. The corner stays can also be used to tether a couple of small carabiners to hold a jacket in place if the bag is full. Not perfect, but still awesome.
Why would an amateur not need all the gears a two-by gives? I'm using my 34-32 and 50-11 and I don't even live in seriously hilly terrain.
So unless you give me an 18 sprocket cassette, I'm either losing range or I have big jumps (and even the 11-34 jumps are bordeline sometimes).
For me, spinning the correct gear for the circumstances is one of the joys in cycling. I would be terribly annoyed being forced to change my pace because of bigger gaps.
''1x'' is my favourite bike product. Im one of those bikers that don't how to use 3 x at all i tend to on 3x stick to the 2nd chainring and just go up and down on the rear cassette. 1x makes it so simple that i have not to think about the 3 chainrings and its bliss just complete bliss. once i got my first 1x its been 1x ever since or converted to 1x.
Wait until you try 2x 😅
@@rob-c. my mtb was 2x, still used one chainring only and just went up and down the rear cassette. if im only ever using one chainring then there ''for me'' is no need for the other chainrings to be there like on 2x or 3x so i converted my mtb to 1x and got rid of the chainring i was not using.
all 3x and 2x bikes i have had have been from new are technically 1x as i only ever use 1 chainring.
Do front derailleurs confuse you
@@matthewlewis2072 not really, I now they're for speed n climbing. Just that 97% of the time I'm only using one chainring when on 2x or 3x so, might as well stick with 1x
I mean, a 3x is rendered useless with the increasing range on rear casettes. You could argue about 2x being the same, but there is a point where the jumps just become too big between gears no matter how many gears you cram into the back derailleur. I can see a strong case being made for 1x on a MTB, but that's pretty much it.
When I first got into road cycling I was mentored by an ultra-distance rider who sold me on the convenience of the bento bag. As I progressed, I started riding with "real roadies" who convinced me the bento wasn't cool and I needed to shave my legs. Now, riding gravel the bento is cool again.
You have back pockets for your stuff, we’re not animals.
If one thinks that shaving legs will make difference between gold and silver..😂
shaving our legs for cycling was never cool. especially when told so by idiots in speedos xD
2:59 I've got to differ. I built my do-it-all car-replacement road bike with 1x11 after drinking the kool-aid such as Nic's selling here, but how is it the case that there's no cross-chaining with 1x drivetrains? Like, aren't you basically always cross-chaining with 1x except in the middle of the cassette?
My experience was (with 1x11 44t/11-46t - so imo excellent range overall, but big gaps) on a road bike, both the top and bottom gears felt noticeably less efficient - less smooth, more gritty. Current 2x12 has a similar maximum and minimum gear setup, but feels _much_ better and not having such extreme gaps between gear ratios is really nice. I don't race but I do delivery and commute on the bike; for either use-case there's no way I'm going back to a 1x unless there's some newfangled chains that are specifically designed to flex (a lot) laterally while still being just as efficient.
If you do as Nic seems to suggest and go electronic 1x on a road bike, you've paid a $1000+ premium for a much less functional product than a mechanical 2x one. If we buy this "it's simpler" argument, anyone not racing ought to just ride lightweight single-speeds; for me, road bike 1x is the worst of all worlds. I just don't see where the difficulty actually is in setting up a modern front mech; they're dead simple and work great already.
I find that 9 speed is the maximum window for cassette width in order to not have significant crosschaining effect in 1x systems. Box groupset seems to be the perfect candidate for a wide-range 1x gear setup. Otherwise, I'd go for 1x9 11-36 on utility/city/commuter bikes and 2x for anything that needs more range.
Regarding 1x, they are both right.. you don't need all the gears of 2x.. but each rider should be their own judge.
They apparently have no hills in the UK
Hahaha i just wanted to say the same. It really depends on where you live. Forget that in southern Bavaria… some flats and out of nowhere a 25% 1k climb awaits you in order to get back to flat… good luck pedalling up that hill with 48 - 30
@@veganpotterthevegan yeah but i think that’s exactly the „problem“ with 1x bikes. My gravel bike is also set up 1x. But I usually ride as fast as possible in order to get somewhere (commute, visit, etc) and even when riding my road bike recreationally or lets say Z2 I‘m still at 30kph+, I want to stay at a certain pedalling frequency which gets impossible on my gravel bike due to the big jumps (11-40 with 46 at front)
I wouldn't trade my GRX Di2 11-42 30/46 for anything else.
@@_MPP_ 30/46 chainset is very good. I wanted a bit more road speed though and swapped mine for 34/50
Oof bit of a controversy: Silca sealant used to eat some types of rim tape (see the WW thread about it) hope they've fixed it by now. if you're not using farsports wheels (they don't need tape) like me then it might give you a hard time.
Tubeless plug: dynaplug seems to be the best. if you like expensive stuff you can carry some in your handlebar plugs as well.
Fidlock: the titanium one seems to be hard to squeeze for some people as I read some reviews, but my normal (well, gravel) fidlock is also a bit hard so I don't know how it can get any harder
SRAM pro bleed kit: yes please
I had the Silca soften DT Swiss tape, first time (front wheel) I thought is tape error, second time (back wheel) it as clear tape was being attacked. Those happen in about 3 months. Silca recommends tape without printing. They did mention that Stans tape worked well.
Thanks Jimmy; the voice and face of reason. I have bought the lube on the recommend- Garmin Varia also pretty useful.
Been a pro mechanic in a shop in South Florida for 34 years, I'd agree with almost everything you've said. Only because a few of the items I haven't tried yet. Gravel bike for gravel, road and cross. 1X and wireless forever. AWS-10 lives in my shop apron with its little brother, the Stan's valve core remover, because, yeah, tubeless. Radar, radar, radar.
Great content. An unapologetic 1X'r? I like this guy.
Gavel bike does it all, 1x front cog. MY LBS mechanic told me that if you want to commute with it, and do gravel adventure on the weekends, you'd want a 2x. Discussion followed me raising that a 36t front single cog would not let you ride with a peloton.
equal parts amusing and educational! laughed out loud more than once! thanks
I like mudguards (fenders); it rains a lot where I live, and I wouldn't dream of riding a bike without them.
Also, though I like bike luggage, I'm not fond of frame bags; they rub against the knees while pedaling, which is really annoying. I'm a big fan of the Tailfin Aeropack; it's light, stable, and doesn't get in the way; it just does its job without much bother.
Love the thing with internal cable routing :D
Gravel bikes! Its the UK we been riding CX bikes for a lot longer than gravel has existed and they do the same thing! 😁
Love White Industry hubs for how easy they are to maintain/rebuild. They roll good too. Thomson stems/posts. Lightweight, strong & I dig the machined mill marks.
My boss loves White Industries hubs, it's what he'd pick if he can only choose one hub brand. I once borrowed my ex-colleague's wheelset with a pair of T11s laced onto it and I couldn't believe how smooth it was when I coasted, it had barely any frictional drag unlike my 2008 Mavic Aksium.
We live in UK so full mud guards are a winter must! Rear ones fine but what about front wheel that kicks up just as much water/mud on to your front/frame 😂
Those mud guards you shown DO NOT protect your chain from all the stuff that the tires pick up and bottom frame gets sprayed by dirt and rocks plus it chips away your pain SLOWLY eventually you will notice it! Also does not protect my water bottles they all get sprayed with dirt! I know that because I used them on my gravel bike! I went back to the FULL mud guard and no more issues on my bike chain, or paint chipping away from my frame, and clean water bottles that I can use!
Wish I could say the same about tubeless plugs. In reality though, they rarely fixed my leaky tubeless tires reliably - be it on the gravel bike or the road bike. Usually, once sealant doesn’t seal, it’s then a matter of nursing the bike home whilst pumping up the tire every few km. The only thing that really works for me is patching the tire from the inside. For that though, I need to thoroughly clean and prepare it, which cannot really be done out on the road.
Dynaplugs!
So much bike snobbery in this 😂 I can relate
The Garmin Varia and anything Park Tool 👌 If you road ride in the country at all, especially by yourself, you owe it to yourself to get a radar. It made my country rides so much more relaxing!
Really enjoyed the vibe and products of this one. 🎉 Thanks .
I bought my first Silca product last year the "mattone seatpacK" love it. Actually, I found out this year they are based in my city as well, their warehouse is located across the street from a gas station I stop at sometimes on my route at work.
SRAM removable batteries are great, till someone steals them at your cafe stop as happed to a mate of mine.
Or when the tab breaks.
... and they're 50 €/$/£ per piece, that's serious money.
Disagree with the 1x statement. Tighter ratios DO help the average cyclist is riding in a group as you've got a smoother progression up the cassette.
I'm a recent convert to 1x after always having had triple chainrings. As a below average (but v experienced) cyclist I can safely say that I do not find that gaps between gears too big at all.
The only time I miss the 2 by on my roadbike is when riding my gravel bike down a steep hill near me-on the road bike I can power all the way down, on the gravel bike I spin out about half way-so I freewheel-no problem……..
1x is fine when riding solo, but whenever I’m in a group I’m always wanting a gear/cadence I don’t have.
1x is miserable when I’m out trying to do workouts. There’s just no getting around the fact that 1x has much larger jumps between gears or doesn’t have enough range.
A 38t with a 10-51 is enough for most. 140mm in the front, 150mm at the back, 203mm discs all around, some 55mm race kings or 65mm pirellis and off you go.
Oh wait, wrong audience. Never mind. You roadies will understand in about 3-8 years, when real racing tech trickles down to your kind of smooth surface riding 😊 too, cant wait for the e-tour d-e franc-e where they actually go around france and not just somewhere random. Racing e-mtbs uphill/upmountain is awesome btw. Check it out.
Silca Tattico mini pump, JANDD handlebar bags for the good price, Specialized Airtool floor pump, JUIN Tech GT hydro mech brakes, and the champ of them all a Lumos helmet. Higher up lights seem more visible, only one thing to charge, and your lights are always on you.
The list for copy and paste adding to shopping/present list etc:
Fenwicks All Conditions Chain Lube
Biodegradable bike chain lube
Fidlock Water bottle
Vielo r+1 Seatpost
Wireless Droper Seatposts
Silca Tubless Sealant
1x Drivetrains
Gravel Frames
Intergrated/Internal cable routing
Wide Tyres
Fendor Bendor
J Guillem Atalaya Frameset
Sram Removable Batteries
Sram & Campagnolo bleed kits
Park Tool AWS-10
Ceramic Speed Wheel Bearing Press
Endro XD15 bearings
Bike Radars e.g Garmin Varia
Time Carbon Layup
Tubeless Plug & Boot Kit
Bike Luggage full of South African money and choclate :D
I got the Park Tool multi allen key set after my cheapo one literally fell apart and all the bits went everywhere. It wasn't much more expensive and has been rock solid
Living here in the Alps, I just can't imagine climbing with a roadbike that has only 1x drivetrain...
what's your lowest gear?
Hmm... favourite bike products.
Generator hubs and lighting
René Herse tyres
Proper aluminium mudguards
Gevenalle shifters
Rain capes (currently a Cleverhood but others are available)
Five Ten shoes
Wool jerseys for winter cycling
Don’t be the that no mudguards guy an a club ride. No one appreciates the clean look, they all think he’s a knob.
Don't be the guy that cares about what other people think . 😉
I don't think is about what other think, but about the road crap one must put up with. Especially on roads full of oil and manure.
No issues if anyone wants to ride without on their own, but definitely if I am sitting behind their wheel getting that crap all over my face.
Re: SRAM batteries. The tabs on two of my batteries snapped. Luckily I was in the garage and was able to super glue back together. They are fragile!
I had no idea Time bikes were made that way... surprised they aren't more expensive!
Still expensive enough, but absolutely great!
I think all the other big brands are just way overpriced... :)
Crazy how diff mechanics work.Depends on so much factors.I am one myself for many years & i learned here a bit more.THX
I was suprised to learn that Fidlock come from my hometown - when their regional manager showed up in my store where I work. To be a bit more specific: my parents are living a 10 min. bike ride away.
Reserve Fillmore valves, a tubeless game changer.
The heckling was hilarious
Rema tiptop touring patch repair kit, the best in the game!
Super interesting list, but you'll take my road and gravel front mech from my cold dead hands....
One by is fine for the MTB, but, I love the range and small steps that I get from having a 2x setup.
Still gonna disagree on the front mech part...
2x or heck 3x is the way to go for a beginner if the terrain is hilly or you carry a lot of weight. Or if you are on a budget
In my case putting a big ish rig in the front would make me run that nice smooth 80rpm on the flat but wouldn't allow me to climb very well (execpt putting a full dessert plate in the back put that ain't cheap if you want good gear repartition). A smaller one would make me spin out on the flat... But climb well
Great video. If it has not been done already please can we have a look at the beautiful J.Guillem set up.
Giant are now doing the same thing with a seatpost insert to go between D shape and round on the new revolt.
The cycling season just started back up for me after winter
Did a nice 34 mile ride
I needed that 2x
(remind my future self to bring food on my rides)
So much misunderstanding in the comments about 1x groupsets. For those naysayer that have never ridden them, please check out the actual gear ratios you get on your bikes: You'll find that there is overlap and duplication in 2/3x group sets and that you hardly miss out at all on the most commonly required gears with a 1x groupset. My 1x is actually lower geared and easier up hills than my 3x and I never find myself wishing I had an in between gear. Where some of you might find you miss out, if anywhere, is with slightly bigger gaps at the top end but let's face it, most of us only use those gears when caning it downhill.
It's not about overlap, it's the huge jumps between gears. Up to six teeth difference between the smaller gears just feels like you're riding a three-speed gear hub. One gear is too small, the other too big and nothing in between. Also, 1x is so ugly, that silly small ring in front with those pizza plates at the rear just look stupid.
I’m with the egg shaped head man 😂 “ I’ll be the judge of that!”
Sorry, but I can’t listen to anyone who’s fallen off their bike 70 times!
Lake shoes is my top product. I have rather wide feet and they are perfect. No messing around buying shoes online(I’m a uk 13 shops don’t stock them) I know what lake shoe will fit by a simple table on their website.
Let's all pitch in and get Nick a tricycle, because falling 70 times is not normal... 🤣
Have you rode a MTB? 5-10 falls per day I reckon. I ride 4-6 times a week it’s all learning my dude
Good to know that I'm not the only one that hates Muc Off chain lube
Love the banter on these 👍
Anyone noticed the muk off wet lube goes all gluey and a pain in the arsenal to get off ? Il be trying the lube you’ve recommended from now on
For a long time, my only set of allen keys was a multitool, same style as tyat AWS-10. Mine was €5 at decathlon and I still have it. The only reason I don't use it all the time anymore because I always forget where I put it...
Oh I could listen to this guy all day so good
great common sense
More of this 🎉
Well edited ❤too
From this list, for me it is my TIME Alpe d'Huez: it is absoultely great! And no integrated cable routing through the handlebars ;)
apart from that, I really love my bike computer because I can go anywhere without getting lost.
Love the honesty as to why he likes integrated cable routing…
I like the guy in the cap - he stands up for what he believes in - regardless of the ‘expert’s’ opinion.
FIDLOCK - the bottle and bag rattle like crazy after only 2 weeks of roadbike use.
The medium bag looks giant from the outside, but is really small and has a payload of 0,7 kg ( one inner tube, small pump and multitool and you go above the payload)
This mechanic is off the rails with the 1x on road bikes
love watching a fellow south african on youtube! great video
Bought Fenwick’s all conditions lube off the the back of this video and love it. Thank you
You either use fenders or not. If you d,o then why not use proper tight fitting fenders, which are the only kind that actually work.
10:14 Wow, your cops actually act on cyclist footage of bad drivers? Must be nice.
maybe a stupid question but doesnt the 1x have way bigger gaps between gears? that sounds annoying
2 & 3 x have overlap, so...
Front mech for ever !
I am a South African Freelance mechanic. Any suggestions on how to get into a pro team? I've been working with some local pro teams but would like to take it to an international stage. I've been working on bikes for 12 years and have been doing it full time for the last year. Any suggestions on how to further myself to get noticed by the big teams?
I have been working on bikes professionally for more than four decades. A Park Tool folding hex key?! I almost never use one. I don't have one in my on-the-bike repair kit. Single hex keys are just plain better, preferable Wera or Wiha.
I use Bondhus, one expensive purchase I do not regret paying for.
Heck yeah - +1 to radars, I love riding with it. GCN presenters were hating on them, not sure why
Favourite bit of 'kit' ? J Guillem frameset! Since I saw that a number of videos back I was ❤❤❤ I found out, it was made not even 50 km's from my home in NL!
I appreciate the sideways knock on integrated cable routing - "ensure that I always have a job."
He also mentioned integrated cables in his 10 most hated things.
RIM BRAKE ROAD BIKES ....DISC FOR OFF ROAD !! HOWEVER I DO AGREE JUST GET A GRAVEL BIKE !! 1x narrow wide work awesome but on a hardtail MTB on pathways 2x to get some speed out of it !! PS hybrid city bikes with flatbars n gravel tires are a great starting point for new cyclists !!!!
I'm not a skinny road rider or a manic gravel rider (Although i do ride gravel from time to time), so my favourite bike products are, My Silka tool kit - awesome quality and not too heavy; my Brooks B17 special saddle, my Carradice seat bags (I have two different sizes) and mu Hope disc brakes - they have saved me from a few scrapes!
Fizik Argo adaptive saddle
I'd love to see Nic's recommended tool sets for beginners
Nick is a South African treasure.
The only thing I really disagree with is buying a gravel bike as your do it all bike. Most cross bikes can fit some good size tires, and the geometry is more similar to a road bike
I haven’t had a bike with a front derailleur for about five years. Haven’t really missed it. Doubt I’ll ever go back.
Try a fixie next. Maybe?
Did I spy a Silca Gravelero pump in the frame bag? Great pump, well made, does the job 👍
loves these videos! all three of you'll! keep em up.