Pimp My Filter #77 - Hydra 1800 Canister Filter
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มิ.ย. 2024
- Apologies for the length of this video as I rambled about filtration and filter media but there are time stamps below for easy navigation.
This is a really well made filter but it's very expensive.....
Currently it is £299.99 available from Maidenhead Aquatics.
Filter Kits, Foams, Biohome, Biogravel etc: www.filterpro.co.uk
(FilterPro site has links to Biohome suppliers in other countries)
Eheim Substrat Pro: geni.us/98euQaB
Follow me on Odysee: odysee.com/$/invite/@PondGuru:0
Contact me on 07772848730 / sales@filterpro.co.uk
******(I don't do texts)******
TIME STAMPS
00:00 Intro
01:23 External Features
02:11 What's inside the filter
05:11 Why having the fine pad last is wrong
05:50 How to set up the filter with the supplied foams and media
08:32 Magnified view of 3DM filter media
10:23 Magnified view of Biohome Ultimate
10:51 Extra magnified view of 3DM filter media
10:59 Magified view of cheap Chinese (crap) filter media
11:38 Magified view of lava rock (scoria)
12:30 Talking about different types of filter media
14:03 An appeal for information
16:40 How to set the filter up with Biohome Ultimate
18:28 Final thoughts on the filter, set up and media
23:32 Maximum flow rate vs actual flow rate
24:32 Tank size recommendations for normal and heavy fish stock
26:53 Outro and another appeal for help
27:47 An apology (shot after making the video)
The filter is recommended for normally stocked aquariums of up to 500 litres / 132 US gallons and heavily stocked aquariums of up to 250 litres / 66 US gallons.
This video on the Hydro Pure technology has 39K+ views and only 9 comments? Doesn't seem right to me.... • Ocean Free 'Hydra Filt...
Please write your thoughts and experiences of the Hydra filters / Hydro Pure technology in the comment section if you have experience of it.
My current view is that the Hydro Pure technology works quite well .... until it doesn't. That's a huge problem (especially with the internal filters) when science fails and Nature has been held back and can't take over fast enough.
The 3DM media looks suspiciously like the new Fluval media: • Fluval BIO-FX | High P... .... Fluval recommend replacing it every 6 months? That is madness.
Don't "eat ze bugs" - grow your own food and create a new system ....... you can check out my efforts to create a new system to navigate Agenda 2030 on my Thousand Yard Stare channel: / @thousandyardstare
The following videos will be useful for learning more about filtration and filter media:
Sizing a canister properly and filter set up: goo.gl/om19un
Looking INSIDE different filter media: goo.gl/hZWS6c
Bacteria and filter media: goo.gl/123gAF
How to clean an aquarium: goo.gl/bPMhvh
Aquarium tips / filtration playlist: goo.gl/pXgqVj
A full cycle is completed by bacteria - the aerobic part of biological filtration which processes ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate followed by an anaerobic part which processes nitrate into soluble nitrogen which bubbles off to the atmosphere.
Therefore it requires a suitable amount of excellent quality filter media to be able to provide the environment for both aerobic AND anaerobic bacteria - that is what Biohome filter media does perfectly but even with such good media there are limitations and we recommend the following amounts for different stocking scenarios:
(1 US Gallon = 3.8 litres)
(1kg = 2.2 lbs)
Average community tropical aquarium = 1kg per 100 litres
Average coldwater aquarium = 1kg - 1.5kg per 100 litres
Predator aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Large cichlid aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Malawi / Tanganyikan aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Marine aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Average mixed fish pond = 1kg per 200 litres
Average koi pond = 1kg per 150 litres
You may be disagreeing with the above figures but remember that they are for a FULL CYCLE not half a job - achieving 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite is quite easy since aerobic bacteria grows freely on any surface but the anaerobic bacteria responsible for COMPLETING the cycle needs more a specialized habitat.
Remember to use a water conditioner which does not bind / detoxify ammonia, nitrite or nitrate as that type of conditioner will severely limit bacteria numbers by starving the bacteria of 'food'.
Size a filter properly, set it up sensibly and you will have perfect water - it's that simple....and your filter won't be the dreaded 'Nitrate factory'.....you'll spend less money on treatments too......basically the filter is the foundation of a successful aquarium.
This series of videos is all about trying to squeeze more efficiency out of internal and external aquarium filters which generally have a limited filtering capacity
We all are on a long path of learning.........
RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS ON AMAZON: goo.gl/jMaBWy
INSTAGRAM: / pondguru_outdoors - บันเทิง
Apologies for the length of this video as I rambled about filtration and filter media but there are time stamps below for easy navigation.
This is a really well made filter but it's very expensive.....
Currently it is £299.99 available from Maidenhead Aquatics.
Filter Kits, Foams, Biohome, Biogravel etc: www.filterpro.co.uk
(FilterPro site has links to Biohome suppliers in other countries)
Eheim Substrat Pro: geni.us/98euQaB
Follow me on Odysee: odysee.com/$/invite/@PondGuru:0
Contact me on 07772848730 / sales@filterpro.co.uk
*******(I don't do texts)*******
*TIME STAMPS*
00:00 Intro
01:23 External Features
02:11 What's inside the filter
05:11 Why having the fine pad last is wrong
05:50 How to set up the filter with the supplied foams and media
08:32 Magnified view of 3DM filter media
10:23 Magnified view of Biohome Ultimate
10:51 Extra magnified view of 3DM filter media
10:59 Magified view of cheap Chinese (crap) filter media
11:38 Magified view of lava rock (scoria)
12:30 Talking about different types of filter media
14:03 An appeal for information
16:40 How to set the filter up with Biohome Ultimate
18:28 Final thoughts on the filter, set up and media
23:32 Maximum flow rate vs actual flow rate
24:32 Tank size recommendations for normal and heavy fish stock
26:53 Outro and another appeal for help
27:47 An apology (shot after making the video)
The filter is recommended for normally stocked aquariums of up to 500 litres / 132 US gallons and heavily stocked aquariums of up to 250 litres / 66 US gallons.
This video on the Hydro Pure technology has 39K+ views and only 9 comments? Doesn't seem right to me.... th-cam.com/video/b5PLdMeU38E/w-d-xo.html
Please write your thoughts and experiences of the Hydra filters / Hydro Pure technology in the comment section if you have experience of it.
My current view is that the Hydro Pure technology works quite well .... until it doesn't. That's a huge problem (especially with the internal filters) when science fails and Nature has been held back and can't take over fast enough.
The 3DM media looks suspiciously like the new Fluval media: th-cam.com/video/P77-h17EkU0/w-d-xo.html .... Fluval recommend replacing it every 6 months? That is madness.
Don't "eat ze bugs" - grow your own food and create a new system ....... you can check out my efforts to create a new system to navigate Agenda 2030 on my Thousand Yard Stare channel: th-cam.com/channels/1pgJBGQrUfCUAhk63U5u5A.html
The following videos will be useful for learning more about filtration and filter media:
Sizing a canister properly and filter set up: goo.gl/om19un
Looking INSIDE different filter media: goo.gl/hZWS6c
Bacteria and filter media: goo.gl/123gAF
How to clean an aquarium: goo.gl/bPMhvh
Aquarium tips / filtration playlist: goo.gl/pXgqVj
A full cycle is completed by bacteria - the aerobic part of biological filtration which processes ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate followed by an anaerobic part which processes nitrate into soluble nitrogen which bubbles off to the atmosphere.
Therefore it requires a suitable amount of excellent quality filter media to be able to provide the environment for both aerobic AND anaerobic bacteria - that is what Biohome filter media does perfectly but even with such good media there are limitations and we recommend the following amounts for different stocking scenarios:
(1 US Gallon = 3.8 litres)
(1kg = 2.2 lbs)
Average community tropical aquarium = 1kg per 100 litres
Average coldwater aquarium = 1kg - 1.5kg per 100 litres
Predator aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Large cichlid aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Malawi / Tanganyikan aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Marine aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Average mixed fish pond = 1kg per 200 litres
Average koi pond = 1kg per 150 litres
You may be disagreeing with the above figures but remember that they are for a FULL CYCLE not half a job - achieving 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite is quite easy since aerobic bacteria grows freely on any surface but the anaerobic bacteria responsible for COMPLETING the cycle needs more a specialized habitat.
Remember to use a water conditioner which does not bind / detoxify ammonia, nitrite or nitrate as that type of conditioner will severely limit bacteria numbers by starving the bacteria of 'food'.
Size a filter properly, set it up sensibly and you will have perfect water - it's that simple....and your filter won't be the dreaded 'Nitrate factory'.....you'll spend less money on treatments too......basically the filter is the foundation of a successful aquarium.
This series of videos is all about trying to squeeze more efficiency out of internal and external aquarium filters which generally have a limited filtering capacity
We all are on a long path of learning.........
RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS ON AMAZON: goo.gl/jMaBWy
INSTAGRAM: instagram.com/pondguru_outdoors/
This is the way I prefer any of your videos to be ....I am going to make some assumptions that the majority of your subscribers will agree. The one about the biOrb was a little long but the next day I bought the Classic 15 gallon of AMAZON and I am going to be getting the new Arid to make a dessert scape !!! Thanks and love the series and you are the best of the best in all of TH-cam's fish channels 😀
@@stoneysscapes7544 Good one, man - I often think of doing a whole series of videos where I just ramble about random stuff off the top of my head or even doing live videos but it would only go for 30 seconds before I started ranting about the New World Order, Bill Gates, the clot shots, the great reset, World Economic Forum, destruction of the economy and farming etc. etc. ....... most people aren't awake enough for that talk, lol
Best to keep it pre-recorded and mundane for the masses. Maybe on my Thousand Yard Stare channel I will make some more expansive videos but this channel unfortunately has to be quite 'safe'.
I have the mini version of that filter , ran it on a pea puffer tank . It had good water flow for its size . The media cage between the electric plates needed a lot of rinsing . The sponge is tiny and clogged easily also
I’m thinking of trying their in-line Hydra filter to add to my external filter.
Yer nice..been waiting for this one for a long time...really rate this filter .better than any fluval..niceone PG.
You can use ions to remove all of those things by creating a simple BCB bag and sticking it in your filter (essentially baked clay and an iron source).
The trouble is, I'm not convinced that messing with ions won't mess with your pH.
You also need a degree of ammonia and nitrite to keep your cycle going.
Mine would be over 2 years old, stock media is still fine
Set up very similar, I also added more seachem matrix
In regards to filter media durability; I’ve had my Hydra Filtron 1500 for 4.5 years now (since late 2018) and am still using the original media (excluding carbon, fine filter pad, and the special cata cartridges). The large granules/balls are pretty durable from my experience. I am noticing a very small amount of ‘dust’ now each time I clean, but not nearly enough that would disrupt the function of the filter and the granules are still holding their core structure, I feel no need to replace them yet.
From my experience, the parts that are wearing out fastest are actually the suction cups on the intake/spray bar that are gradually starting to lose their suction ability over time.
Hands down best filter ever media has held up in mine for years now and the whole electrolysis works a treat I knew a guy who had tried everything to get ammonia down got one of these and all readings went to 0!
(my other account) - Nice one, thanks for the positive report on this filter and thanks for watching.
@@ThousandYardStare no problem I work in my local fish shop and they honestly fly off the shelves hydra used to do a “stream” witch is just a in-line version of the technology witch was absolutely brilliant
@@ThousandYardStare if you ever wanted to review one of them I have a stream 1 lying around at home somewhere that I don’t use anymore because I have the 1800
@@charlieswallow3614 (my other account) To be honest I'm a bit burned out by all the Pimp My Filter videos and unless something exceptional presents itself I may call it a day at number 80, lol.
80 videos committed to one series is a heck of an undertaking and I was kinda hoping that other aquatic related channels would start doing a similar thing to help their viewers understand proper filtration and Natural processes but most of them don't seem to care about anything except regurgitating redundant nonsense to get views - the whole TH-cam thing is quite frustrating since most 'creators' are creating bugger all.
I use the hydra 1500 filter the plastic baskets are poor quality they get stuck in the filter pretty fast ( talking about the last basket underneath plus the airflow of the filter reduces after using a while even when cleaning out the filter I changed back to jbl it's garbage in my eyes greets out of Belgium and thanks for keeping you're promise of making a revieuw for these filter sorry for my spelling mistake
It's an advanced oxidation process of the type electro Fenton based on ferrous sulfate desorbed from the carbon by electrophoresis.
The advanced oxidation process desintegrates all recalcitrant molecules which are the real insults and toxins besides nitrates (like cresols and phenols). All those that taint the water, for example.
So it removes nitrates?
You want nitrates in a planted tank so that might clash if that is the case.
@@OriginalMindTrick I does not have enough potential to break up nitrates.
I've been running 2 of the smaller 1000 versions of this on my 200ltr long when I had Cichlids in the tank. I now only have one running on the tank as I keep smaller fish now. I filled these filters from the off, with your media. I haven't had any problems.
When I first set the tank up I had cycled media. However I still had a dangerous levels of ammonia at first. I was told from the supplier (who were the only company selling the Hydra in this country at the time) ...that the ammonia would be harmless although my testing strips still picked it up, as the hydra pure electrolysis would have made it harmless. (Leap of faith?)
Thanks Richard, I use one of these small internal versions of this in my 32 uk gallon tank. I have kept the sump with baskets in the back of my fluval flex 123l./32g. I am happy with the effect of this hydro-pure technology. It keeps the parameters at very acceptable levels, so much so that I can overstock a little without worrying about any collapse in friendly bacteria. I may eventually rip out my sump and install a 1500 version canister. This would take care of all my filter requirements. For now, I am happy with things as they are. I would like to know if these cartridges can be produced cheaply by identifying the clay part and then open; replace; re-close with cheaper alternative cost effective materials. If you could solve this, it would be game changing. This technology will probably limit nitrates a lot and may not be suitable for some heavily planted tanks. I have surface plants and some others that are all thriving to be clear.
That is great and long may it continue.
This technology seems to work very well until it doesn't so hopefully the system won't suffer from any failures.
i have been using the hydra filter systems for about 5 years now, the shop where i buy al my aquarium goods swears by the system and also uses it in their filtration system. It is also because of them that i started to use it.
My set up 5 years ago: 200 liter tank, built in filter with small amount of biological media.
i was a student and i did not spend enough time caring for my filter systems and this caused a lot of fluctuations in my water parameters.
I added my first hydra filter (hydra 50 in tank filter) and it was an eye opener for me, After buying the hydra i noticed that my water parameters where much more stable and i had no more fish that where dying, even tho my habits did not change. This went on like this for the next 3-4 years, i do have to mention that you really need to change the cartridges at least every 12 months or otherwise the effectiveness of technology declines rapidly.
About 2 years ago i bought myself a second tank (420 liters) with the following set up: the filtron 1800 mentioned in the video and a second filter, a superfish xpro 2000 (It almost looks the same and some parts are interchangable, it just doesn't have the hydro pure technology).
With this tank i did a lot more research and i also stumbled upon pondguru, this made me change my set up of the big tank filtration and made me buy an external cannister filter for the smaller tank. All the filters where set up like pondguru describes just with the 3dm nuggets and beads instead. Around this time i also stopped using the hydra 50 because it became an eye sore in the small tank. As a result of this the nitrate levels in the tank became a bit higher but for the rest the water parameters where fine.
With these adjustments i never had any problems with the water parameters in any of my tanks. the big tank houses 6 Altum angelfish, while not being the easiest fish to keep they are thriving with this system.
After using the 3dm nuggets and beads for some time now i can say that they work verry good, after a year you do begin to notice that the nuggets become more britle and i would suggest to replace them after 1 maybe 2 years of use.
If you are less experienced with aquariums and don't do a lot of maintenance the hydra system can be a life saver, it can reduce the fluctuations in the water parameters, wich reduces fish deaths.
If you are more experienced and have filters set up like pondguru with enough bio load then maybe they become less interresting because of the cost, they will stil do the job and even out some fluctuations but you just won't notice it as much. The cartridges are expensive (18 euro a piece), and in de filtron 1800 you need 4 of those. To test the effectiveness i haven't changed the cartridges after 12 months and i can say that my nitrate levels did start to rise a bit but nothing serious.
I also find the built quality of the filters excellent and the filtration pads that you get are really good quality and last a long time. In my opinion while being more expensive, the filters are worth the money.
I am considering by this hydron filter. As it is cheaper compared to Sicce and JBL.
I have just three concerns
1: Does it make lot of noise?
2: That hydro filtration requires separate power. I have bad experiences with the UV light. Does this hydron filteration leaks current? We call it earth here. Doesn't electrocutes you, but a electric tester will glow red.
Glad I found this review before getting really excited at the fact they are being sold by Maindenhead aquatics at 50% off RRP. Might explain why they are now heavily discounted.
They're still a decent sized filter and for 50% off that's a good deal considering the quality of construction.
Hello Richard.
The video you have about filter media is 5 years old. New products have appeared on market since then, Seachem, Aquario, Eheim, etc. Are you planning to test them and compare them with your old video?
Cheers!
Toilet de-scaler is much better than vinegar for testing rocks/media . It is sulphuric acid so you need to be careful with it .
This filter just popped up on me on fb or something yesterday and i was going to look into it now I don’t have to. Thanks. But wouldn’t you need salt in the tank for the one part to work but then that would be putting chlorine in the tank.
Fluvals 'new' Bio FX media ilooks like the same as shown here (the larger pieces). As per their own website, it's 'Safe, Inert Ceramic Material'
on the Hydro Pure, i have used the internal ones, was good for removing NH3, especially on quarantine tanks i found which just don't have time to build up the usual bacteria loads ~_~, problems is I just can't find the cartridges anymore at least in Australia. but would like to see an actual scientific experiment done on its to see if/how well it actually works.
being honest Ive been diving into anoxic filtration. its described similarly to this. essentially the shape of anatomic structure of some materials will pull charges from the water. those charges like ammonia nitrite and nitrate get eaten by bacteria that live in the heart of bags or baskets of clay and iron.
the plenums are the most understandable for me bc slow moving water through the substrate will totally lose oxygen by reaching the void of a plenum. anaerobic like bacteria thrive in those conditions so I get it.
its essentially like biohome like conditions but on a grand scale. instead of being trapped inside the media the water freely flows around the media and only the bits with ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate get pulled into the media, clay and iron, bc of attracting ions. kitty litter for instance will eat ammonia and dissipate the smell of cat poo/pee over time to a degree lol
idk but Im deeply intrigued by the ionization and pulling feature being applied by both this filter, allegedly, and 'anoxic' filtration. i think if you could pull ammonia/nitrite/nitrate out of the column after muck sponges and send that water through biohome media youd have a true weapon of mass destruction filter. i can envision a filter with a ionization plate on a side chamber thatll coarse the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate into that chamber and fill it with extremely porous media. maybe not even a plate but a cathode insert that could be replaced, like a side channel or 2 side channels with a cathode tube sucking in the charged particles to your media
20:10 lol shut up, you're a genius not an expert
(my other account) Don't get confused by people trying to sound scientific - it's all about Nature.
All the talk of charged particles / FAR infrared media and the likes is just bollocks and used by some companies to sell their filter media products.
Sorry, I don't know how else to describe it - Nature just needs to operate unhindered and it will have the desired effect.
A 'plenum' is just adding slow flow zones to a system, Biohome is just adding slow flow zones to a system, media in a mesh bag is just adding slow flow zones to a system - all will work to some degree but if you combine Biohome with a mesh bag or plenum then the effects are massively boosted due to the porosity of the Biohome media. It's basically a deep sand bed in pellet or gravel form.
So many people online talk nonsense about different systems without understanding the Nature and the worst of them is a guy claiming to be a 'doctor' on TH-cam ... maybe he's a doctor of the anus but certainly not a doctor of Nature, lol - once the Nature is understood the system becomes effective and will reduce Nitrate and there's numerous ways to do that - no one way is best but a combination of methods can be very effective to achieve a full cycle.
If you want to discuss the 'anoxic' filtration feel free to phone any time on 07772848730 as I seldom see comments on TH-cam. I give my number out to anyone wanting to discuss anything filtration related and to my knowledge nobody else does that - I'll spend enough time as it takes to answer all the questions you have and if there's anything I don't know I won't pretend to know the answer - nobody knows everything.
10:00 this must be the reason why they put the fine pad on the top. Protect the propeller.
I have this filter and it's freaking awesome. The hydropure system does work, it uses hydroxyl radicals to breakdown and detoxify ammonia and Nitrite.
I've used the filter for 6 months, it's pretty quiet, the flow is very strong, I've had to cut down the spray bar and face it at the mounting face to calm the flow down.
I'll be carrying out a full service on the filter. I'll be switching to Seachem Matrix.
I've had the filter set up according to one of your videos using ceramic rings in the bottom, followed by sponge, Polish pad, biological and chemical.
Also another point to raise is it was cstapure cartridges which are activated carbon nuggets which forms part of the hydropure technology, I've very little of any pollutants in the tank
Good one - thanks for the valuable feedback on the filter. That will definitely help anyone considering purchasing the filter.
If you're looking to get 'Matrix' it would be much cheaper to seek out a better grade of pumice as opposed to the very dense grade which seachem choose to sell as 'matrix'. For canister filters go for the 15mm-25mm white pumice if you're looking for an alternative to media types which are constructed specifically to be useful to bacteria.
I did a video looking inside filter media which featured pumice and it can be found here: th-cam.com/video/QTtAUYR67Eg/w-d-xo.html
It's probably one of the most important videos I have made as it uses a microscope with a sensible magnification for a very clear picture of what makes a good and poor filter media.
I hope you find it useful - thanks for watching.
Can you advise if aquarium science have got it right? In their experiments they've found that ceramics, pumice and volcanic rock only has a limited effect on filtration quality and bacterial growth. They've also found that contrary to manufacturers claims that activated carbon isn't worth the paper the receipt is printed on as it doesn't actually remove impurities or toxins really, it just traps micro particles and can help breakdown chlorine and chloramime but at such a slow rate it's not worth buying
Big LOL at Aquarium 'Science' - it's probably the most unscientific site on the internet.
A few years ago I was having my videos besieged by comments from fake channels posting links to a 'study' on the AS site.
I took the time to point out flaws in the report / study as replies to all the comments from the fake channels then I watched as over the next few weeks and months the page with the Biohome 'study' was edited many times to make excuses / post new information to address most of the points I'd made in the comment replies.
Since then it has been edited so many times that it has morphed from a fake 'study' hit-piece on a filter media into a personal attack on me which I think is hilarious since anyone reading that page now (who is capable of independent thought) can see there is no science there, lol
The AS 'experiment' was done in the early days of distribution at a time when there was only 2 sellers of Biohome in the UK and US and neither of us had sold the amount of Biohome mentioned on the website to anyone in the US, there was no pictures of any media, tanks, filtration or anything to prove any experiment had been done. The anonymous clown behind the AS site had used seachem prime as a conditioner and that basically starves the bacteria, never allowing it to fully populate any media and negating any results. Therefore (if any experiment was done) the results from the 'tests' would obviously show no reduction in Nitrate and a poor processing of Ammonia and Nitrite no matter what media was 'tested' since the cycle was prevented from ever getting going. .... and therefore concluding that the type of media does not matter / pot scrubbers do the best job etc..
I could go on all day about how anti-science the AS site is but there is no point since it is just a sad illustration of a catastrophic lack of understanding of Natural cycles, bacteria, effect of chemicals on bacteria and what constitutes a scientific study.
Unfortunately the lack of understanding about Nature will persist for as long as there are chemical companies sponsoring forums, paid-for 'ambassadors', fake 'reviews and fake website publishing fake 'studies' which are not evidence based (and are regularly edited to become personal attacks).
That's why I try my best to put out information here which is backed by over a decade of communication with people using different types of media, chemicals and filtration from all over the world. Even with that level of commitment it took me almost 10 years to make the link between (some) water conditioners and a failure to establish a healthy bacteria population but I simply was not asking the relevant question which is "what conditioner do you use?" - as soon as I started asking that question a clear pattern emerged so for the vast majority of the people I communicate with now the solution for them to achieve a full cycle (when their filtration is sized properly and set up with suitable media) is simply to change the conditioner to a type which does not mess with the ammonia, nitrite or nitrate (e.g. choosing API Stress Coat instead of Seachem Prime).
Having the benefit of thousands of people using the Biohome media all over the world in all sort of situations (and taking thousands of hours to gather information from them) has allowed me to give realistic figures for media amounts based on different stocking levels and recommending a conditioner which will allow the system to achieve a full cycle. To me that is the very essence of Science since it is thousands of experiments which are monitored over an extended time, the information is acted on and the results are freely available online through unedited comments from people using the Biohome media. Compare that to the hit-piece posted on the Aquarium 'science' website and I'm sure you'll have a good laugh at it too.
BTW, did you watch the video I posted in the previous reply? The camera / microscope does not lie.
Hiya, Richard, wondering if you could give me some tips. Purchased 2kg of bio gravel for my all ponds EF 250 at the beginning of the year. Tank is 100L, medium stocked tropical community and moderately planted. Nitrates out of the tap are 40ppm so I brought the bio gravel media hoping is would lower it. It’s been in the filter now for over 4 months but I’ve not seen any lowering? Filter is set up the way you suggest in your videos. 25% water change every week and the tank sits at 40ppm nitrate.
(my other account) I think I answered the same question by email or on another video comment?
The process of building up enough anaerobic activity typically takes 4-6 months so it could just need more time. However, the amounts of media recommended are based on there being no extra nitrate being added to the tank as that basically replicates the conditions of a heavily stocked tank and pits more demand on the filtration (media).
As long as you're no using anything which will starve the bacteria (e.g. prime, purigen) the system could just need more time - I'd say give it another couple of months and see if there is any movement. All being well you should notice a reduction by then but if not then there may not be enough media (and as a consequence not enough bacteria) to affect the level of nitrate.
Thanks Richard I've been looking forward to this one. I was wondering how would you cyle a tank with one of these. If you did it with hydra pure off when you turned it on would it starve the bacteria in the bio media. I have heard that a standard water test kit picks up the ammonium it creates in the process
(my other account) I'd think that the electronic part would have a similar starving effect to seachem prime - always best to just do things naturally as whenever 'science' is introduced into Nature it will make a balls of it.
@@ThousandYardStare I thought seachem matrix was pumice.
@@richardfrost653 It is just pumice. I think he is confusing Matrix with some other media.
@@richardfrost653 Sorry, I meant Prime, not 'matrix'
Sorry, I meant Prime, not 'matrix' - I'd just answered another question about pumice and still had matrix in my head.
Im staring up a 125 gallon tomorrow and was moving 1 of my established canisters media over. Was wondering will it be fine on new tank for 24hrs with any fish in tank yet or should I wait until fish are in
It will be fine.
9:31 maybe the media is supposed to break down? Which might be why there's a fine filter up top? To catch the bits of media that break off? Idk for sure but I've seen media that is supposed to erode slowly over time and stabilize ph by adding calcium to the water; or at least that's the claim.
Proper filter media isn't designed to break down but generally the more porous it is the more delicate it will be. We've tried to hit a happy zone between porosity and strength with the Biohome range but if it's treated roughly sand particles will break off.
Hi everyone just an update on these filters sum Maidenhead aquatics shops have stopped stocking the cata pure cartridges as not worth it to them as only can sell singles no more packs of 4 😢
I would strongly suggest, that you wait on other retailers getting in this external filter, as Maidenhead Aquatics are more expensive than most, if not any other retailer, as I know for a fact through personal experience. 😢🏴
Am I going to have trouble long term if I instead have two filter pad trays and one biomedia tray (on an established planted tank)?
It'll mean less maintenance for you, because more pads means they'll get clogged slower (or rather at the same rate, but as one gets clogged there'll be an extra to pick up the slack), but the capacity to filter your tank will also decrease. Remember that 1kg of good media = 100 Litres of filtration. For this filter in specific each tray holds 1.7kg, which means 170L (~45 US gal) of tank capacity you'd lose. So in the end it all depends on the size of your tank, if the media capacity exceeds the filtration needs of your setup then you're free to remove some for extra pads .
Can you make a video on Netlea 2.0v with prefilter module
Can you do a marineland internal canister ?
HI, Please could you do a 'Pimp my filter' for the Ciano CFBio XL for the Ciano Emotions Pro 80 145litre aquarium?
13:15 A filter media comparison you say? That's what I've been looking for! Got a turtle that makes a terrible mess every day. Most filters cannot survive Sir Poopsalot's relentless assault! And I'm sick of doing a FULL tank and filter cleaning every a *week!*
With heavy polluters you really need a filter which has an easy to clean pre-filter.
Unfortunately the best of those is the Oase Biomaster range and they are expensive but very good quality.
Is it normal that the last lot of biohome purchased seems to shed granules. I keep clearing the pump chamber and finding more ??
(my other account) It will all shed fine sand to some degree but how it was treated in transport often results in more 'shedding' for a while - it's always best to rinse any porous media before use as it tends to hold the very fine 'sand' in cavities.
@@ThousandYardStare. Thanks for your reply Richard. I have had it in place for around 6 months now. The bio gravel I use in other filters never had the same issue. I modified my daughters fluval flex 34l so water passes down through sponges in the first chamber then diverts up so it's drawn down through the biohome in the second chamber. The pump and heater is in the third chamber and this Is where I keep finding the sand particles. If it persists should I replace with biogravel to avoid further degradation. Thanks
@@ABSaquatics It may be worth taking the media out and giving it a good clean as shedding should be temporary. A good wash should sort it out.
Wouldn’t the carbon be on the bottom cos that looks like a really fine carbon pad you did that with the ehime classic 350
Those pads contain near zero carbon. Better off just using it as mechanical filtration and placing it thereafter.
Can you please do the superfish aquaflow 100???
Bio gel ball work or not
I just had a thought about why filters come packed the way they do. What if a packing stability is the issue. Putting the heavier items in the bottom of the box or canister to keep the center of gravity low. These items do get palletized and shipped. That would cut down on leaning and tipping over during shipping. Just a thought.
If that's the case the company should have instructions on how to stack reinstall it when you receive it so its installed properly. It is more likely that the company knows it reduces efficiency and people will spend more money buying more media from them.
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I've had this filter for 3 years, kitted out with biohome and the different sponges. Course and medium sponge at bottom, 2 trays of biohome, polishing pad on top tray
Plunger pulls a little air sometimes, also on off switch doesn't work anymore.
Half of that sounds good and half sounds disappointing.,...
@@ThousandYardStare I'm still using it now. I replaced the plunger, but it seems to be the bushing that it travels through. I figured that if I leave it pulled up about an inch it seals lol.
It's very clever technology, drove me mad when trying to cycle my tank as it gets rid of the ammonia, and doesn't go through nitrogen cycle in the traditional method.
I run it along side an fx6 on my discus tank.
@@ToddGT3 It's a strange one for sure and I will always prefer Nature over 'science' but if the two can be used together in harmony it's all good.
What happened to the mega filter build?
(my other account) I moved it to the other side of the pond and made a few videos showing it - it can be see on the 'Compilation of garden projects' videos and also on a few videos on my Thousand Yard Stare channel.
Just curious Richard, why do practically all these canister filter manufacturers put the fine pad after the biological media? Don’t misunderstand me, I agree with your logic on the proper order, coarse foam, medium, fine, bio media, then if desired, carbon. One question, if I have a power outage, how long can my bio home media bacteria survive without water flow?
Little bits of quartz?
Can you give me your opinion about seachem matrix please
its highgrade white pumice
It is a low grade white pumice which is too dense to be of any use hence seachem recommending a slow flow rate of only 50 US gph / to reduce nitrate - at that point it may as well be in a slow flow nitrate reactor. I covered the commonly available forms of filter media in a video called 'Looking inside filter media' which would be worth checking out as I show a good grade of pumice (and how limited it is). There is a direct link to that video on the video description and also in the pinned comment - I always link to that as it's an important video which shows magnified views of filter media (which nobody else seems to bother doing, lol). Once you see the different types of media under a sensibly powered microscope it's very clear what makes a good filter media.
@@ThousandYardStare thank you for replying and the information 👍
This filter appears to be unavailable everywhere, even Aliexpress.
I just find it so baffling that with all of the manufacturing of virtually all of these filters, that they come to the customer still being wrongly set up in regards to the mechanical side.. It is such a simple thing, but seems impossible for them all to get right . Also , I'm glad to see that you are keeping summer alive with the wearing of your shorts ! , mainly hidden behind that desk 😃
I have no idea when I shot this video as it's at least 2 years old, lol
When 1st got mine was good but after few months thought was rubbish
Are you still accepting filters for pimping I have a tetra EasyCrystal 300 with bags of potential 👍
Well built but very loud sounds like a hover mower I have it on saltwater aquarium salt creep around the seal cata pure blocks need replacing every 6 month and every 12 for freshwater 50 quid for the cata pure idea behind it is meant to eliminate ammonia nitrate phosphate less water changes
I now use the hydra stream 1 with a sun sun 703 non uv alot quieter they don't do a bad job if u have a small bio load not a bad filter but wouldn't pay wot they asking at min the 1800 is selling at 109 pound on line says a lot 😊😅😂
£109 is a great price for the Hydra 1800 but it's a shame you have to keep shelling out for replaceable parts as that really increases the cost over the lifetime of the filter.
Works out about 100 quid a year for floss pads cata pure and carbon pads just as cheep to buy another filter
@@markjamson3824 Yup, and that's where the manufacturers get you - and why I make these videos ..... and why I'm not very popular with manufacturers, lol
it looks like ricecrispies
A strange canister looks cheap and basic like alot of filters out there the plastic seems ok it's well made but I bet it has a cheap pump and that thingy that draws ions in I think it won't work you need catlitter made from clay to pull in ammonia ions but the amount you need is alot more than the space it that one it might work as an electric charge v electric if possible I'm not sure but personally if I was gonna spend 300 on a canister it'd have to be ether an eheim classic 2262 the 1500xl or a eheim pro4 600 or oase biomaster 600/850 no other filters worth that kinda money iv had a fluval fx4 it cost 195 pound it was powerfully but couldn't Handel a 300ltr tank when it came to bio and a jbl Cristal profi 1902 that costs 260 was loud n flooded the house I have a new jbl Cristal profi 902 and it's alot better
So an expensive SuperFish X-Pro filter...
My guess as to why most, if not all manufacturers put the biological media in an order to catch all the muck, is the same reason they recommend the consumer replace that very same media periodically... profit. Plain and simple.
You'll get labeled as a conspiracy theorist for thinking like that, lol
Whenever any company claims to have something beneficial in their product range the only question should be "Beneficial to who?" but in an age where thinking minds are chastised for questioning the 'science' many people are reluctant to ask that critical question even when so-called scientists can be bought just as easily as politicians.
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What is an anoxic filter people go on about