Aaaarrrggghhh.....This is a long video but there is a lot of useful information in here if you can bear my boring voice and schoolboy editing for the duration of the video. *Time Stamps and useful links:* Canister filter featured in video: geni.us/2LnO It is also known as the SunSun 304 Booster filter: geni.us/2bj1 Biohome filter media: www.filterpro.co.uk Gel balls: (see above - 'Bacteria' page) Carbon: (see above - 'Water Conditioning' page) Ammonia Block / Nitrate Remover: (see above - 'Water Conditioning' page) The description of the Ammonia and Nitrate pads has changed slightly since I made this video - the new recommended amount of pads to use can be found in the link above. There is also a new design for the boxes. API Stress Coat: geni.us/BHYeb API Freshwater Test Kit: geni.us/oOfVb Seachem Flourish Excel: geni.us/05BK Easy Carbo Liquid Carbon: geni.us/kkluGf *Useful Video Links:* Nitrogen Cycle Video: th-cam.com/video/-O2SCXDO2RI/w-d-xo.html Filter Sizing Video: th-cam.com/video/L5FkSTYkEAE/w-d-xo.html Pimp My Filter Playlist: bit.ly/3hpsnq6 *Time Stamps:* 00:00 Intro 00:39 Importance of knowing the flow direction 01:38 Bottom to top flow filter set up 03:30 Gel filter starter balls (Pure Pond from EA) 04:13 Chemical media (Carbon) 05:10 Chemical media (Ammonia Block) 07:47 Chemical media (Nitrate Remover) 08:10 Top to bottom flow filter set up 10:53 How much chemical media? 13:22 Additives which enhance the bacteria development 14:52 Chemicals which delay / stall the bacteria development 21:51 The benefit of specific treatments 23:40 Booster filters (on intake pipe) 26:16 Booster filters (on outlet pipe) Unfortunately Google / TH-cam doesn't send me any notifications so please ring with any questions. I hope you found his video useful and if you did then feel free to share it anywhere online, upload it to your own channel or take clips to use anywhere. If you use the whole video please keep the video description (this thing) intact as it has all the relevant links and time stamps to complement the video. I never ask for donations, I've got the minimal ads on my videos and never expect anything in return for making the videos ....... but .... if you've found this useful please check out the links above since some will provide the fragments of income I need to keep the roof over my head (and provide the funds needed to ride out the upcoming apocalypse...lol) You can ring me any time as Google sees fit to send me no notifications or new comments - my number is 07772848730 and feel free to ask me anything. If I don't know the answer I'll just tell you I don't know as there is no point trying to pass myself off as an 'expert' when we're all on a long path of learning. My channel on the Odysee network: odysee.com/$/invite/@PondGuru:0 I'm not on FBI Book or any of that nonsense so ring me any time, no worries ...... speech is something we have to use before we devolve to be silent.
Well shit dude, wish you would've been more clear years ago. I totally agree with what you are half way saying now. now I gotta re educate my self and friends who trusted what I told em before.
Got my first 10 gallon when I was 13. I’m 60 now and Iv learned more about filtration in last two days watching your videos then I have in my entire life. Thank you friend. 🙏🏽
@@whiteowl8703 That's why I always have the link to my site in the video description and pinned comment on the filter videos - it has direct links to the main sellers all over the world. I'm just the UK distributor and don't have anything to do with the export / stocking of international suppliers and I can't really tell viewers not to shop at certain places but I can strongly advise using the main distributors, especially in the US since there is no point paying more then necessary. I'm glad getting scalped didn't put you off the media and it's great you found Greatwave as they are the main US distributors.
@@gaywelshboy6811 (my other account) An over-sized filter is no problem as long as the return flow isn't too much for the fish. Lots of filtration is good, lots of flow isn't always good.
@@gaywelshboy6811 I think you can always reduce the flow of a filter to a degree. Make sure the fish don't get stuck to the inlet. Over size usually means less clean outs. (Four months seems nicer than every week.) With a smaller filter, you can use an air curtain along the back of the tank to create a tumbling water motion that keeps the water moving to help carry the waste to the filter inlet. The air curtain gives you yet another thing to fiddle with in your tank to get the minimum amount of movement that will get the job done. This brings you onto the topic of different sized air pumps with cost, noise, life span, movable air volume, pressure, etc. More hours of debate!
I get the Purigen bit and recharge etc but Prime states: Prime® may be used during tank cycling to alleviate ammonia/nitrite toxicity. It contains a binder which renders ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate non-toxic, allowing the biofilter to more efficiently remove them.
That's what it says but cycling takes way longer while using that and similar conditioners which bind the 'food' bacteria need. It will eventually get there but it gets badly held back - always best to just let the food be available and allow the bacteria to flourish for quickest cycling and fastest processing of pollutants by the filter.
You are amazing person with massive knowledge. Your videos are priceless Thank you for great work you do. I just bought some filter media from your store. I m looking forward to use it and see good results. Once again thank you and all the best for you and family
I'm glad you find the videos useful and thanks for the order. As long as you have enough media for the tank size and stock the water should be perfect. Just make sure to use a normal water conditioner (e.g. API Stress Coat) which does not remove / bind / detoxify the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate and the beneficial bacteria population will be free to grow in line with the available food (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate). Best of luck with the tank and all the best for 2024 and beyond.
Hi, I had this exact same setup with the booster on the intake and the main canister filled with Biohome. It works very well but even the 5" prefilter clogs up pretty fast. I eventually went one step futher and replaced the booster with another used Sunsun 304, removed the impeller, not powered and have it running as a full size prefilter. These used sun sun's are dirt cheap and this is well worth doing... Does a pretty awesome job of polishing the water.
hat is a good way to go and many people do that to great effect. The 'classic' range of filters from Eheim are a popular one for using as a pre-filter too.
This is something I've considered doing myself but I'm amazed that just one impeller can move the water through both canisters! Why wouldn't you just leave the impeller in the pre-filter then you can at least plug it in and let it pump if needs be? I am considering running 2 canisters in parallel, I think I may need the ooomph in a 5 foot long 400 litre tank as even my FX4 doesn't really seem powerful enough to me
@@steverabbits (my other account) I will shift the water through both filters as long as you remove the impeller from the 'booster' filter. Here will definitely be some reduction in water flow but it shouldn't be noticeable.
I've been using APS filters on all my tanks and have done for many years. I have the 'booster' filters on all of them as a pre filter. I have all mechanical filtration in the boosters, and biological in the canisters. That way I clean the boosters fortnightly, and the canisters 6 monthly. My only gripe with this setup is how hard it is to bleed the system. I now use a powerhead to push water in until the air is expelled. Then its fine. The prime button on them is useless when used with a booster.
I ALSO USE THESE 2.3ltr BOOSTER FILTERS ON ALL MY EXTERNAL FILTERS WITH JUST MECHANICAL FILTRATION.there brill,and a very good price to.SAVES HAVING TO TAKE THE MAIN FILTER APART TO CLEAN.PLUS AN EXTEA BASKET FOR THE MEDIA.I DONT TOUCH MINE FOR WELL OVER A YEAR.just clean the Booster now and then,nice and simple 👌🏻👌🏻
Until I just upgraded my tank I had the smaller 1000EF version, it was always difficult to prime, luckily it fits inside a bucket so I always let it siphon fill from the tank with the lid not clamped down until it starts overflowing, then clamp the lid down, that gets pretty much all the air out. With a booster attached it's best to actually suck the water through the intake pipe with your mouth (I know what fish water tastes like believe me!) until the intake pipe is full of water and starts to flow (and the booster canister too obviously) then reattach it to the main canister. The problem with priming is almost always trapped air so just sit and think of ways to get most of it out and it will work. This is the method I found best after 3 years of using the 1000EF. Hope that helps somebody
Great video that summarises all the key knowledge when setting up! I actually have two sets of the same big filter (main pump) plus pre-filter cannisters for one of my tanks. The pre-filters only has sponges that came with it (easy cleaning). I added the filter floss for the extra polish in the pre-filter just before it enters the main pump.One main pump is biological: Base is ceramic biomedia it came with, bottom tray is 4 graded sponge/floss, the rest of the trays are biohome, then peat to top it off. In the other main pump (UV turned on): base is again ceramics, then 4 graded sponge/floss tray, followed by trays of carbon, water softener resins (for Discus tank), and general chemical resins [just so I suck the heck out of all the impurities]. This set up seem to cycle my tank faster than my other tanks. Took about 2 weeks for a heavily stocked planted tank. I do use the water conditioner Prime though. But I may start using my outdoor koi tank that catches rainwater so it is untreated water (except that sponge + carbon in the filter). Once things are settled, I change my chemical main pump over to a the same biological one.
I pimped my Fluval FX4 the way Richard teaches, set up with all new media and gel balls and with some old gravel from my previous tank my new 400 litre tank has had ZERO ammonia and ZERO nitrite almost from day one! The nitrate is only slightly raised too but I plan to increase the amount of Biohome to the level where hopefully in a few months the anaerobic bacteria take care of that issue too. I am now thinking of running two filters instead of a filter and wavemaker to enable me to have the larger amount of Biohome needed for the anaerobic bacteria to do their job of eliminating the nitrate and so get a full nitrogen cycle going. It's actually quite fascinating learning how to do all this properly! Your advice has been golden Richard, ta mate!
There generally isn't enough media in a FX4 (3kg) for a 400 litre (normally stocked?) tank but every tank is different. If he nitrate is only slightly up then the level of filtration may be there or thereabouts for eh size of tank and stock. It's a fine line between having too little media and having enough to achieve a positively identifiable level of nitrate which indicates a full cycle.
@@pondguru Hi Richard, I may be calling you about this soon in case you don't get to read this ... the boosters do seem like a really good idea but I have an FX4 atm and I'm not sure if the pipes would fit. Also my main goal is to increase the amount of Biohome I use and create better water circulation. The FX4 holds about 3kg and I'd like nearer 8 if possible so am considering running one of the APSolutions 2000EF filters in parallel with the FX4, positioning the outlet nozzles at either end of the tank, one high to create surface disturbance for oxygenation, one low pointing towards the gravel to encourage proper water circulation and do away with the need for a wavemaker. My tank is 5 feet long and atm the end where the FX4 intake is is a bit quiet re water movement, if anyone has any input on this please fire away!
He loves his bumpy foam pads. It's the thickness and density that counts. Bumpy foam that gets squished flat loses any bumps. Even if the bumps on one foam matches the corresponding bumps on the next foam pad, then you would have areas that will have a peak on one pad feeling the valley of the next pad. Why would an irregular foam pad layout work better than a regular thickness of foam layers?
By layering foams you create huge voids between the levels which will hold a nation of muck and the available surface area for muck to settle out on is huge compared to flat foams. If you've ever cleaned a filter with layered flat foams you will see that the surface is severely clogged but there is very little muck inside the foam. Any foams is better than nothing and as long as you're using foams with a high contact surface area and don't 'squish them flat' the filtration will be more effective in terms of settling muck out and extending the cleaning intervals compared to similar flat foams. If you've never used bumpy foams none of what I said above will make sense.
@@pondguru So, if it's the unsquished shape of the foams, then you wouldn't want the foam ripples/lumps to interlock with each other which would remove the voids. You would want the foams to have the ripples/lumps from one foam to be in contact with the flat side of the next foam layer to maximise the voids? When I have tried all foam filled trays with a couple of similar types of foams from coarsest to medium, to finest (3 coarsest + 3 medium + 3 finest + 1 polly wool pad), the fish muck is found between similar layers, which shows that the fish waste can travel through the foams and not just get stuck against the outer edge of the next finer foam layer. When I have removed the waste from the outside of the foams, I have always found a great deal of waste within the foam layers. If the void between foam layers caught the maximum amount of waste, then having only one foam layer of each of the 3 trays instead of the usual 3 layers of foam per tray would allow a gap of two layers of empty space to fill up with the fish waste. I like the way that moving water will always find the easiest path. And as one path becomes clogged with muck, the next easiest path is found. This works well if there are no large gaps to carry the water directly to the next grade of foam. The polly wool pad does not have any allowance for the tray handles, like the foam layers do. To me it seems strange that this must be to place the polly wood pads on top of the plastic grill on the top of the highest layer. I worry that strands of the polly wool could be dragged into the impeller. To remove the maximum number of particles in the water, within a set time, high flowing water is best, but to allow the water to interact will the beneficial bacteria, a slower water flow would be better. I suppose at a faster water flow, a greater volume of water would pass more times through the bacterial media? (Could too much water strip out the beneficial bacteria?) After looking above at the amount of what I've type, I think I worry too much about what should be a relaxing hobby!
@@awoodward37 It is important to keep good biological media working in clean water so the foams and fine pad would all be before the media. You're right to be concerned about a fine pad sitting under the pump intake in a canister filter since some poly pads can break up and get wrapped around the impeller - it's important to get good quality fine pads and use them in the correct place. With regard to water flow the faster flow allows more oxygen and food to be brought to the bacteria living on filter media but a slower flow will allow for more contact time. That's where a good quality porous filter media is perfect for a fast or slow flow since the internal structure of the media will slow the flow down inside the media regardless of how fast water flows around each piece of media. Basically as long as you have a suitably sized filter which is properly set up you don't need to worry about it.
That is one of the main culprits but here are a few more. I always prefer to remove toxins and let Nature do her job without hindrance hence I would recommend a straightforward conditioner hat does not bind ammonia, nitrite or nitrate for best results.
(my other channel) In most cases it will be Seachem Prime but there are similar 'conditioners' which have the same devastating effect on bacteria - basically avoid anything which claims to bind / detoxify or remove ammonia, nitrite and nitrate - there aren't many conditioners which mess with the bacteria (starve it) but a long as you use a normal conditioner (e.g.; API stress coat) you can easily achieve a full cycle with a recommended amount of suitable media. Although the manufacturers of the damaging 'conditioners' will claim that 'science' proves that they do no harm they are 100% lying - scientists are bought easier than politicians. If their 'solution' is to buy another one of their products (e.g. stability) to mask the side effects of the initial damaging chemical (e.g. prime) then you know it's a scam operating to a pharmaceutical business template.
@@ThousandYardStare i have fluval conditioner atm . it says it rids heavy metals aswell . is that one ok as ill get api after i finish that bottle of fluval stuff
@@gumpysee3644 (my other channel) Yes that will be no problem - just avoid conditioners which mention removing / detoxifying / binding ammonia, nitrite and nitrate as they lock up the 'food' bacteria needs to prosper.
Great and very informative video Richard. Put it this way, often when I do a water change using ‘that product that binds toxins’ my nitrates start to climb after 2-3 days then start to go down slowly until the next water change. Makes sense why it’s happening now!
That's a clear indicator that the bacteria 'food' is being restricted then available, then processed by the bacteria. It';s always best to simply allow i to be available then the bacteria will maintain a constantly high population.
I must have missed it but what water conditioner leaves ammonia, nitrites and nitrates in the water? I've been using prime as well and my nitrates are always higher a couple days after a water change leaving me to rethink my life.
@@richhead1999 (my other account) Any 'normal' conditioner like API Stress Coat, Aquasafe, Tapsafe, Watersafe etc. simply makes the water safe for life. However, any conditioner which claims to 'remove, detoxify, bind' the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate starves the bacteria and ensures that the filter works less efficiently. Assuming that you have everything else in place to achieve a full cycle then a simple swap to a 'normal' conditioner will likely see the cycle complete.
I have one of those aps booster filters hooked up to my fluval 406. They are the best thing since canister filters became a thing, I will never run a canister without a booster now.
@@chandler2561 it reduces flow by 20-30% which I can afford to lose because the filter pump is rated for tanks over twice the size I'm running it on , like most fish keepers we run oversized filters so a slight loss in flow is no big deal it actually filters the water better when its passing thru the media at a steady pace
Chiming in on the conditioner issue. The main problem is over use. The amount of water going into the tank is the only thing that should be treated before its put in the tank not the whole tank volume. I thank you Richard for hi lighting the bacteria starvation issue with binding of bacterial nutrients. Please note using ammonia and nitrate pads could equate to the same thing. The key is how many times the media is exposed through water flow to allow bacteria a chance to feed.
Hello. I enjoy your filter demonstrations. One thing that I notice is that you always seem to put your fine mechanical filters (including floss) at the bottom, or as the first stage in the filtration. While intuitively, this makes sense, I've actually found that in the case of the large, bottom up flowing canisters, it is best to run your fine mechanical as the LAST, stage. This way, you can just crack the filter open and change out just the fine filter, as it will be in the top layer. It is more convenient to service it this way. Not as fiddly as removing all of the baskets of bio media each time as it is the fine filter that will clog first, and if it is burried at the bottom, you have to try pretty hard to get to it, and might not service it as often as it needs. This is the way that Eheim instructs you to do it, and it makes sense. If you are worried that the bio media is going to get clogged, you can put a thin layer of black (course) foam at the very bottom, and run a course foam sock on the intake to prevent clogging (but it doesnt actually clog very quickly, because the bigger particles break down on their way to the fine (last top) filter. Also, leaving the bottom space below the bottom tray empty rather than packing it with stuff is usually what the manufacturer had in mind. often this area is designed to act as a swirling chamber for the big stuff, which helps beat it up into smaller bits so that it can make its way to the final, mechanical layer, at the top of the canister.
Thanks for the comment - it is refreshing to get comments which question the method of filtration instead of just nodding in agreement. Basically whatever works for you is the best and if you want to set a filter up exactly as the manufacturer says then that is no problem. However I'll give a few examples of filtration from macro down to miniature below in a retort to: "Also, leaving the bottom space below the bottom tray empty rather than packing it with stuff is usually what the manufacturer had in mind. often this area is designed to act as a swirling chamber for the big stuff, which helps beat it up into smaller bits so that it can make its way to the final, mechanical layer, at the top of the canister." The last thing a filtration system is designed to do is smash large pieces up into smaller pieces since they are then more difficult to filter out. Take any water treatment plant or sewage plant anywhere in the world as an example since they basically have 3 stages of filtration: 1 - A series of screens to mechanically filter out suspended solids which are large then progressively smaller until the water is mechanically cleaned. 2 - A biological stage where bacteria work to make the water healthier. It is more efficient if water is cleaned prior to entering this stage. 3 - A chemical stage (if necessary) where the chemistry of the water is altered or maintained for release back to Nature or for storage / distribution. On a smaller scale a 'proper' koi pond will have a bottom drain leading to a gravity fed filtration system where large waste can be caught with high efficiency in brushes / screen / foams. That system would be Intake, Filter, Pump and an aquarium canister filter is exactly the same processes, just even smaller. Water is drawn through the system in the most efficient manner without smashing up large waste into smaller waste which will quickly clog a fine pad (since the broken up larger waste would now be tiny and not caught in the coarse and medium foams). That is why I always have the mechanical filtration first and put rings in the bottom (if possible) to allow heaviest muck to settle out before it even gets to the foams thus extending the time it takes to clog the foams (and fine pad) and ensuring the water is clean before entering the biological zone for maximum efficiency. The primary function of any filter is not to let the muck get into the biological zone or through that to have to be caught at the end of the process. Having the fine pad after the biological zone simply holds back fine muck (which should have already been caught if the filter was set up properly) and serves to prematurely clog and reduce the efficiency of any good quality porous media. Apologies, I've gone on way too long since I get fired up when companies manufacturing filters are talking nonsense about something which should be (and is) a very simple and Natural process - hence the 90+ videos in this filter video series where the method is basically the same for setting up every filter.
Does anyone try to marry up sponge filters with a canister filter? Would it require too many spouge filter cleans? It would reduce the canister maintenance...
Having a booster filter on the intake side of a canister is quite common but many people also use a coarse block of foam on the intake pipe inside the tank to further reduce the maintenance on the canister filter. If a decent sized booster filter is used on the intake side of a canister there should be no need to do anything with the canister other than fill it with good media and forget about it.
Your 100 precent about product X water conditioner .i stick to one of the simple standard water conditioner's. I noticed with product X. Conditioner i struggled to maintain an established tanks water parameters.switched back to a basic one ,all good everything back to practically zero.only reason i used it was because it was concentrated, therefore got more water changes per bottle ,but if it messes up your hard gotten water parameters whats the point
(my other channel) For sure - only people who look into it will see the hidden harm it does which is why most people using it will also use a bacteria additive after every water change. There's only 1 winner when 2 products are used instead of 1 and it's not the fish keeper.
but this trays aren't sealed enough, small debris will be going thru bypassing actual filtering.. It will take much longer to achieve crystal clear water or might be impossible at all.
The booster canister filters..... Do they have their own water pump built in? If the "booster" filters shift less water than the main canister, wouldn't it reduce the overall water rate?
Generally booster filters do not have their own pumps so the booster will move no more or no less water than the main filter - it's simply an in-line filter and as long as you have foams in the booster which aren't too fine you'll not notice a reduction in flow from the main filter.
Set up my aqua one the way you say to do an aquis as they are similar. I cleaned last year and the flow still hasn't dropped and it tests zero on all tests. So gonna leave it as it is until the flow starts to drop.
Awesome stuff - it amuses me that I still see people saying that it's impossible to achieve a full cycle using filter media to support the right bacteria. I love getting reports like this so thanks and I wish you the best of luck with the tank going forward.
This so what i need to do for my Juwel lido 200 ,,,, Thank you ,,, I want to connect a booster filter to my inlet and outlet of my Fluval 207 ,, Will my Fluval corrugated hose connect to the Booster cannister fixings ? i was thinking on using the small booster as a prefilter and then into the 207 and back out to the large booster , that is filled with Bio ultimate ,,,,, I already use your Bio gravel in my internal Juwel Bio M and the Fluval 207. I have 4 boxes in the Juwel and 2 trays filled in the Fluval ,,, im going to Stop using Prime dechlor and switch to API stress coat as its killing the food for the bacteria to grow . Merry Christmas
I have had a tetra ex1200 plus running on my 240 lt tank seemed to be ok until it started leaking 😢, so ordered a new AP solution 1400 & the 2.5lt pre filter & possibly most importantly I've ordered 3kg of bio home from you. Im hoping after watching your helpful video this will set me up well, thanks for tips.
@@pondguru 1st order finally arrived today (went to wrong sorting office, NOT your fault), so now I finally have 3kg so will fill & set up new filler + pre filter. All set up now not sure my poor internal filter was going to do the job for much long, just glade I had a spong filter on tank too . Thks David.
@@lorddjg (my other channel) It's good to hear that it arrived safely - I don't know what's going on with delivery companies lately but it seems like they are getting more useless by the day. It's like nobody wants to work any more and those who do take no pride in their work.
I've featured a few of the Fluval filters in my 'Pimp My Filter' series of videos and the '07 series all work the same. Water enters and goes through the coarse foam cartridge then rises up through the trays. Bottom tray should always be medium foam and fine pad followed by trays of filter media.
Hi, Richard i have a fluval 207 and 107 whats the best video to watch on best way to fill filter, thought course sponge first then crramics then fine ormedium sponge last
I have just answered the same question on another video? I've featured a few of the Fluval filters in my 'Pimp My Filter' series of videos and the '07 series all work the same. Water enters and goes through the coarse foam cartridge then rises up through the trays. Bottom tray should always be medium foam and fine pad followed by trays of filter media.
Simplemente usaría un limpiador de grava para limpiar el tanque una vez a la semana; eso dejará caer agua del tanque. Luego rellénelo con agua nueva a la que se le haya agregado un declorador (por ejemplo, API Stress Coat). Eso hará que el agua sea segura.
Has anyone tried the efx booster just on its own? I use the efx+ 2000 and a tidal 75 for my bigger tank which has been a great combo for the past 7 months. Now, I am in need of an affordable filter for my smaller tank which already has tidal 55 but I just need something more.
Good day, I followed your advice and bought the external additional smaller canister filter. I had a problem when following your link there were several choices. When I ordered I received the canister however the outlet inlet hoses were 12 mm not the 16/18 mm. So, I bought adapters and connected the hoses together. It worked but I believe the flow is being slowed down due to the smaller hoses connected to the system. Can you specifically point out the correct mini canister filter to use, so that I don't have the problem with the hoses. I know this was 2 yrs ago but I hope you can still help and advise. What you said about the use of the smaller canister makes perfect sense and that is the way I have designed my filtration. Thanks in advance.
(my other channel) It sounds like you've bought the 1.2 litre option instead of the 2.3 litre option for the pre-filter. I would never recommend the 1.2 litre version since it is so much smaller and less compatible with most canister filters. The 1.2 litre version has foams which are only about 4" diameter whereas the 2.3 litre version foams are 5" diameter. It may not sound like much of a difference but the surface area is massively different and therefore the filtering area is massively different too. There is only a couple of £ between the different models but it is always the 2.3 litre version I recommend.
@@ThousandYardStare I think they’ve changed the size of the inlet/outlet I checked my purchase and it’s the HW 603b I can see pics online that appear to have the bigger hose but the manual I found on line says 12 mm.
I figured it out, the 603b has a pump and the smaller inlet/outlet hose sizes, 603 has no pump and larger inlet/outlet openings why it’s this way idk but it could be reversed having pump on 603 would make more since.
@@marvinsmartt468 The pictures online are unfortunately poorly labeled as they show the different versions and are randomly labeled as 603 and 603b. The version without the pump is a proper pre-filter and the version with the pump is designed to be a self contained external filter for a small tank - it's not meant to be used as a pre-filter due t o the fact that it has smaller fittings and a pump which will restrict flow terribly if used as a pre-filter. The 2.3 litre version of the pre-filter is the only one I would recommend.
@@ThousandYardStare yes it’s utterly ridiculous how poorly they are mislabeled and described. I think I’m gonna just remove it all together and replace with another separate system(fuval 307). That gives me 3 filters, one polar aurora 525 and 2 307’s on a 125 gallon. Going peacock cichlids maybe 20-25. I have set filters up as you and others recommend. Thinks that’s enough?
Just wanted to add, thanks to you I have zero nitrates in all my tanks. I bought and packed my filters with biohome ultimate and wow!!! I don’t make water changes but I do top up the water level with tap water. Do I need to add conditioner?
That is great to hear - thanks for the report. Generally you'd still need to remove uneaten food and fish waste from the tank unless it is all being removed into the filter (then the filters are cleaned once every 1-2 months). Depending on where you live in the country the water from the tank could be very different as far as chemicals goes and the nearer you are to cities and centers of large population the greater need there will be for a water conditioner to neutralize the chemicals in the tap water. API Stress Coat is one I always recommend since I've never heard of any problems with that one.
From reading 📖 books and things and ingredients the in water treatment says not to use for fish intended for human consumption and has binding agents in it like sodium thiosulfate
What are your thoughts on running a tunze 3181 macro algae reactor for a marine tank would you run it between the inlet or after the canister on the outlet or just separately would like to set up an oase thermo 850 with lily pipes so only have one inlet and one outlet pipes in the tank if pos for a clean look
Question: I have an EHEIM professional 4+ 600 but picked up an additional EHEIM professional 4+ 350, at a steal. I would like to run the filters in series, so that the 350 has foam, with fine filter material and the 600 contains all the bio media. I know prefilters are an option, but I figured the 350 could work as well. I can’t think there would ever be an over or under pressurization issue, causing leaks, if I put the 600 second but I wanted to get some input. The goal isn’t to increase flow, but to have one unit that receives regular maintenance instead of two. Like the prefilter, a smaller canister filter in front of the main filter should work the same, just with an added boost. Am I wrong? Also, I think either pump would be able to power the system, in some limited capacity, if one failed. The working filter would just need to push the nonworking filters impeller around till fixed. What are your thoughts?
boosters are ment to postpone cleaning of the main filter , you need lots of fine "wool" in the booster to prevent as much particles entering and pluging into the filter , by maintaining the booster filled with wool which traps most of solids as soon as possible remooves the source of nitrates , if implamented correctly it can lengthen the service of the main filter from once a month to twice a year . the small diameter boosters are great to be used as polishers , plugged with fine carbon media can do the job much more efficient and faster than putting the same media in the main canister generally u need a bigger amount of wool than shown here to keep the media as clean as possible otherwise they not only loose theyre effectiveness but they become a source of nitrates thus the nickname of canister filters " Nitrate Factories"
I was going to buy 2 of these for my filters. My tank is cloudy with tiny particles and I have fine wool in every tray (I have 2 of these 2,000lph filters) but still isn't getting it all. I think it might be the food I use, I'm not overfeeding, just think it's messy. So I was thinking of buying 2 of these boosters and filling them with fine wool but was going to put them on the outlet so that once the water has gone through the main filters, it's then polished by the booster. Do you think then that it would be better going through the boosters first? I was worried that the larger particles would reduce the flow significantly in the booster
@@ryanmcgeown4170 too much fine wool is not particulary good either a coarser type is always good to prescede the wool in order to prevent it from cloging easily , what system u have , what fishes and what food you use ?
I have a 600L tank with about 23 peacock cichlids. I have the 2 efx 2,000 filters with the same media as this video (same foams and bio home ultimate) in each filter with a fine wool pad at the top of each tray, 250ml of purigen and a sponge filter (the black sponge with the weight on). 2x 12,000lph wave makers and a surface skimmer so thought filtration would be pretty good. The fish food is from Herons pet world, probably considered a cheap food but it has really brought out the colours in my cichlids
@@ryanmcgeown4170 the two prefilters is a good option to have although it will not so.lve all problems , it will make the maintance a bit easier by not having to open the main filters in order to service the wool / pads which will all be located on the prefilter , in your case i would just change to frozen foods , that way the pollutants get slashed both in apearnce of the water but more so on the chemical parameters , as for color even the simple un enriched foods may provide a good show , there are also enriched ones to add even more pop of color
hi just recieved some biohome ultimate from you to go in my all pond solution 2000 efx+ filter and was wondering how you would rate the aps filter against something like the fluval fx filters i have a all pond solution 1000 on my 200 litre african cichlid tank with biohome media and my tank is always clear and fully cycled the highest my nitrates have been is 10ppm with this filter and media i am getting a new 600 litre tank soon thats what the new filter is for
Hi there pondguru,im from malaysia and im trying to purchase the ammonia block 3 in 1 but couldnt find it even in amazon.dont mind if you share the link to me. Thanks
I've had a few reports of people using a booster on an FX6 but it slowed the flow down noticeably. Given that the FX filters main strength is the amount of foam they have it makes no sense to reduce that down into a booster filter which will clog way more quickly than the main filter.
Hello Pondguru. Wanted to take an advice from you regarding whether can we use 2 eheim classic 150s as a pre-filters on the two inlet sides of eheim XL1200 so that we can get more space for bio media in the third tray of XL1200.
(my other channel) That would probably work no problem although there may be issues with the pipe size of the 1200 and 150 not being compatible - you may have to get some step up / down converters for the pipe.
@@ThousandYardStareYes I totally agree with you on that point. Thanks for the advice . Instead of eheim 150 , will go for Netlea G2 Pre Filter as this is newly available in India plus fits pipe size of 16/22 mm of 1200XL.
Stupid question...So that big filter you have there. Could you use that on a 250ltr goldfish tank or whatever small tank and because it's 'too' big would you get away with cleaning it less? Or would it not work properly. Thanks
Hi Pondguru, I've been using both prime and purigen for 2 years in a reasonably heavily stocked 325lt tank. If you are right this could be a game changer. I keep detailed records of parameters and water changes and will be sure to see the results if you are correct. Great work mate, keep it up.
If everything else in in place to achieve a full cycle and it's not happening then the chemicals being used in the tank are almost always the reason why it won't complete - I'd love to see the results as such a simple change can make a massive difference to the efficiency of a system.
@@pondguru I have an aqua one ocellaris 1400uv pimped as per one of your vids but the only thing I don't have is the biohome media as I can't get my hands on it here in Melbourne Australia. Not sure if I can get the full cycle without but can see where you're coming from. Already have api stress coat so will drop the purigen and see how the nitrates respond. Thanks mate, love your work.
No worries and we do have a distributor which is linked on the FilterPro page (AU flag at top of page) - it is Genesis Group for AU. If you can't get any of the Biohome the next best would be the substrat pro from Eheim as it has a god internal structure.
Richard, I really love your videos, they are filled with a great deal of common sense and knowledge, really helped me understand aquarium filtration better, however I want to point something out: Seachem excel is just polymerised glutaraldehyde - a chemical used primarily for disinfection and sterilization of surfaces and equipment. Its non-polymerised version is really toxic and can blind or poison you, which is why for aquarium purposes the manufacturers use the less reactive polymerised version of the chemical. The main use of glutaraldehyde in the aquarium hobby is as an algae killer, since it kills BBA. At one point there was a trend to use it as a pressurised CO2 replacement in planted tanks, however it was proven that achieving a concentration where the carbon released would be enough to influence plant growth will actually be deadly to all life inside the aquarium, there was a study by JBL explaining why they do not offer "liquid carbon" solutions. I'm very skeptical of any claims that excel is beneficial to bacteria since its main usage is as microorganism killer.
So basically fish in cycle you need the binding water conditioners otherwise ammano nitrite will kill the fish or cause health problems risk I’m willing to take to keep the fish safe
I have a 120Ltr tank with 3 goldfishes .. I have an EHEIM 2215 with 2 kg of Biohome Ultimate for 1 year now. I follow your guides , every step and every detail but I have not achieved zero nitrates... I have 30-35ppm every 10 days and I do a 60% water change.. What should I do ? Is buying a sunsun 704B gonna help ?
We recommend 2kg of media per 100 litres for a goldfish tank so that may be a major reason why the nitrate hasn't come down further. However, 35ppm after 10 days when you have goldfish would indicate that even with the amount you have there is lower than normal nitrate. With the extra half kilo (or more if you have space for it) that will likely see the cycle fully completed. You can never have too much filtration but it is easy to have too little - the difference between not enough and enough is often a very small amount.
Hi Pal, I have my All Pond Solutions FEX 2000 + hooked up now to my 350 litre tank and have my cycle complete, but I seem to be suffering from NitrAtes now. I am going to stop using Prime and use the Tetra conditioner instead, but I do 30 - 40% water changes religiously every week conditioning the water before it enters the tank. I only feed around half a teaspoon of pellets a day split into 4 smaller feedings with big gaps. Where am I going wrong with the NitrAtes. I have 0 ammonia 0 nitrite Ph is 7.4 NitrAte 40 ppm. I can't seem to bring this level down. I have plenty of plants in. Any help would be appreciated? I have the usual ceramic rings, bio balls, etc. I am going to get a booster canister, too.
A complete cycle is the 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and very low nitrate but it is good to hear that you've got the aerobic side of filtration working well enough to complete that half of the cycle. There are 2 reasons why the nitrate would still be high: 1 - Prime starving the bacteria. Not enough active anaerobic bacteria means that other than the plants nothing is processing the nitrate. 2 - The filter is set up to support only aerobic bacteria if it has ceramic rings and plastic balls. No anaerobic bacteria means that the plants are solely responsible for nitrate reduction so if you didn't have the plants the nitrate would surely be higher but they can only do so much. You will not need a booster if the filter is set up properly since it will easily hold 5kg of Biohome Ultimate - that will be more than enough media to support enough anaerobic bacteria to naturally process the nitrate in a normally stocked 350 litre tank. If it is Tetra Aquasafe you've switched to that will be good as it simply makes the water safe for life without starving bacteria by messing with the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate it needs to prosper. Hope that makes sense.
@pondguru cheers, I did a 50% using Tetra Pond dechlorinator. I also used Tetra Balance and it brought it down from 40 ppm to 20 ppm nitrAte the next day.
Thanks for your response 👍 I look into getting a booster filter and using biohome in it. The tank isn't heavily stocked. I have 4 fancies around 4 inches long. They are nearly 3 years old. That Tetra Balance worked well for initially lowering the NitrAte, but I thought it would have done more for my kh also. We have super soft water with very little kh & gh. I have to remineralise my water at every water change because the kh and gh get diluted. I've thought more about doing smaller chances now over the week so as not to mess with the kh & gh too much at a time.
@@jonnyshock9165 Yes, filtration is everything and swapping the plastic media and ceramic rings out for Biohome will ensure that you do not need a booster. The Tetra nitrate reducing 'balance' is a good short term solution to high nitrate but it bounces back before the next treatment then you get into an uneccessary cycle of treatment. Proper filtration will remove the 'need' for any chemicals other than a simple dechlorinator since all the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate will be processed naturally by the filter (bacteria). If you have very low pH, soft water it isn't great for goldfish since they are happier in a relatively high pH (7.8) and highly mineralised water. With the right substrate and rocks it should be easy to set up the tank so that any water change isn't a huge swing in conditions. With a good substrate (e.g. Aragonite sand / crushed coral) and suitable rocks (e.g. ocean rock, spaghetti rock, tuffa or anything else light in colour) the pH, hardness and other conditions will be set for goldfish with no need for temporary chemical adjustment. Good filtration and a good set up will result in 10%-15% weekly water changes (as long as it takes to quickly go over the substrate with a gravel cleaner to remove uneaten food and fish waste) and that in turn results in more stable conditions, less spent on 'treatments' and happier fish.
(my other channel) Any normal water conditioner will allow the bacteria to thrive by simply making the (tap) water safe for life. As long as you avoid any conditioners claiming to 'remove / detoxify / bind' the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate the filter will cycle quickly. The ammonia, nitrite and nitrate is needed for the bacteria to feed on and expand the population until the filter fully matures so the last thing you want to do is put it on a starvation diet.
High pondGuru. Have curious question if you had two booster filters together on the same canister filter would that still work out properly? What would you think about that
Ideally you would only have one pre-filter 'booster' fitted as fitting two of them would certainly reduce the flow and reduce the effectiveness of the main filter - if you feel the need to fit 2 x pre-filters to your canister then it is definitely time to invest in a properly sized canister filter for your tank and forget about farting about with multiple pre-filters.
Could you use two pre-filter booster on Equal hypermax 4500 or equal uni 700 they both have two intake and two or eheim pro three 12000 XL two intake and one outtake canisters
@@Stan-q7n It would work in that scenario since you would have 2 x intake pipes on those types of filters but with the Aquael Hypermax 4500 it has an easy clean pre-filter built into the filter so there is no need to add an extra pre-filter.
I know the equal 4500 has pre-filter it was just throwing in with the other two canisters because that's the only three canisters that I came across with dual oat tapes and intakes would there be any more like them but good and big eyes to equal hypermax 4500 with a booster pre-filter was thinking more media for the filter itself wouldn't that be a little better
Love all you videos . That being said have you caved now we need a pre filter ? For the filter ? Sun filters are great and your sets ups are wonderful fx6 / fx5 videos the same but why do sun sun need a pre filter ? And why always the bio media let's see you go back to your roots .. instead of selling products . We all have loved and see your videos and your knowledge and appreciation for that just get back to your roots of helping people not selling more
The videos don't help anyone? I'm currently 80+ videos into a series which has cost me a small fortune to make but I make the Pimp My Filter videos to help people set their filters up efficiently. Those videos are purely for people who own a specific filter or are considering buying a specific filter (which I do not sell) and none of the videos are sponsored by any company or individual since the information in them has to be authentic. I supply all the bio media for the series at my own cost and send the filters back to their owners at my own cost - how many other channels would spend £1000's and hundreds of hours to make a video series or do anything without 'sponsors', begging links, join button or being a paid 'ambassador'? With regard to the 'need' for a pre-filter you don't need a pre-filter unless there is a need for one. For example if the stock in the tank increases and there is a need for more filtration instead of buying a whole new (larger) filter you can buy a booster which will enable one of the trays in the existing filter (which would normally be used for foams) to be filled with media to increase the filtering capacity of the system. With regard to bio media that is very important as it holds the vast amounts bacteria necessary to process the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. It takes a suitable amount of viable bio media to hold enough bacteria to process the pollutants. I use the Biohome media in the videos since it has a structure which allows for the aerobic and anaerobic bacteria to colonize it - the aim is to achieve a full cycle and that is less achievable or impossible with the vast majority of other filter media types. I made a video a while back which may be of use to appreciate how very different bio media is: th-cam.com/video/QTtAUYR67Eg/w-d-xo.html That will hopefully illustrate why I use the Biohome media in the filtration videos. However, viewers are obviously free to use whatever foams and filter media they want or whatever is available in their country. I tend to use Biohome in the videos as it is something I have in quantity here (since I sell it), it works to achieve a full cycle and I know from thousands of user reports how much media is needed for different stocking levels to achieve a full cycle. I do not have as much information on any other media and therefore the information in the videos would not be accurate if I used another type of media and it is important for me to relay accurate information. To be fair to your comment if I hadn't undertaken the long running, time consuming and expensive series of videos known as 'Pimp My Filter' I would have more time for DIY filter videos and other types of videos that I'd rather be making but when I commit to something I see it through fully. If I didn't have a family, full time job and a garden to consider I'd happily make videos all day, every day on all sorts of topics and I'd love to do that but the only way to make that a reality would be for me to take the Faustian bargain and sell out by becoming an 'ambassador', having sponsors, having a join button, channel merchandise, paid live streams, members content etc. etc........ all of which I will never do. Basically you're stuck with whatever videos I make on this channel, lol Thanks for watching and all the best for 2024.
Maybe daft question but I've recently bought filter and tank off friend it was set up as saltwater tank but I've cleaned everything to death as what to set as freshwater he had the media in your video would I be able to use it for fresh water now it's been soaked and cleaned
The filter is fine to use in freshwater after being cleaned but it may be worth giving the media an hour or so in a hot oven before using it in another system. It will still contain some of the minerals from the saltwater system but you will burn off any organic matter and eliminate the risk of bringing anything which could harm the new system in. The minerals / trace elements still left in the media from the saltwater tank will get free into the system but will be in such small amounts that it will not affect the freshwater parameters, plus it will be diluted with every water change. As long as you haven't soaked the media in bleach it will be fine to use after a good baking but if you've used bleach to 'clean' the media it will have to be scrapped.
Hi I bought the bio kit for the fx6 what pre booster filter do you recommend I think that will save me cleaning the main filter as much as the sponges get mucky I got gold fish in a 720l tank
I run a canister filter with biohome but have not seen a reduction in nitrates. What affect would slowing the flow down make. I am thinking of a big canister with slow flow through biohome . I have German blue rams in a 30 gallon with an eheim Ecco pro and I’m thinking of adding an eheim professional 11 , the flow rate would be too high for the fish so if I slow rate down would the biohome work more effectively?
Slowing the flow can have a massive benefit as far as reducing nitrates go as it allows the media to support a greater percentage of anaerobic activity (bacteria). The lower the flow the greater the percentage of the bacteria will be anaerobic (for reduction of nitrate) and likewise the higher the flow the greater the percentage of bacteria will be aerobic (for reduction of ammonia and nitrite). Feel free to ring me any time, no worries.
I have connected the filters in series . Then I turned on the Ecco, the motor is driving the water through both filters so I haven’t turned the big one on . My question is , will it put a strain on motor ?’ Do I need to turn the big one on ?
@@prestonbowers1114 If the flow coming out of the input pipe is fine then there is no need to turn the other filter on but if the flow is low then the pump is straining.
(my other account) Sorry I forgot to put that in the video description and pinned comment - thanks for the question - the link I will add there now is: geni.us/2bj1
If you use the conditioner with binding agents which restricts the food for bacteria then the first part of the cycle will typically take 7-8 weeks to achieve 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite. That is no good as it should only take 2-3 weeks when using a conditioner which doesn't bind / restrict / detoxify ammonia and nitrite. A simple change can make a hell of a difference to the amount of beneficial bacteria supported in a filter.
@@pondguru problem with that is that ammonia and nitrite are deadly to fish if you use normal one you will have fish dying Iv told to people it slows the cycle down using ones that bind it but they say it’s still available for the bacteria just in a safer form
Hey love your videos. Quick question. I recently purchase a All Pond Solution EF2+ and have added my own dimpled mechanical foams. I purchased a set of three online which included Fine, medium and coarse. Would you say its not worth using the fine and double up on the medium as i have fine filter floss in the next stage. Just to improve over-all performance with less clogging capabilities. Cheers 👍🏼
That’s what I’m wondering if he is referring to as well. “Removes chlorine, chloramine Detoxifies ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate” The last three sounds bad.
What’s your thoughts on connecting two of these boosters together ?? Standard pads in one and filter floss in the second ( floss and carbon maybe ) I’m looking at doing this but I’d have to have it flowing into the top connection rather than the bottom. Do you think direction of flow matters ?? As long as pads are in correct order ? Appreciate your thoughts
The direction of flow doesn't matter as long as the pads are in the correct order but whenever you add more bends, pipes and connections to a system the flow will be reduced. As the booster filters have a limited diameter you will still get the same contact surface area on a fine pad or floss whether you have it in the first or second booster and unless the tank is really overstocked you probably won't need a second booster on the system.
I think I was possibly concerned about slowing the flow down significantly but if I’m mindful on the pipe work linking them should be ok. 200 litre freshwater moderately stocked tank ( soon to be heavily stocked ) with aquael 1400 canister.
Are the Sunsuns OK filters? I mean you can buy two of the damned things for the price of one Oase or Fluval. I never heard of a booster filter but that's brilliant. Thanks for the heads up..
I've heard a few people say they have used that to good success but anything will do to seed a filter - when it is unhindered bacteria will populate any filter media (except plastic) very quickly.
i would really like to see a how to setup of a RO water system too cos that's the actual problem start if that's done correctly the rest is just gonna fall in to place. or some info on home tap water filtration or something like like that. been following your channel for quit sometime and a huge thank you for all the info you have provided. have worked awesomely till today. Sadly i haven't been able to get my hands on your biohome media in Thailand that's where im in now. so i tried your alternative medias and works just great. RO systems are really expensive too. hope to hear from you on this topic too thank you sir
RO units are something I haven't had much to do with and discus keepers would probably be the best to ask about those. As long as you remineralise the water going back to the tank (to ensure that the water is not 'dead') a RO unit is a good way to remove toxins from tap water.
I don't think we currently have distributor in Thailand but the nearest would be Singapore, Malaysia or Vietnam - all are linked by their country flags at the top of any page on the FilterPro site www.filterpro.co.uk Unfortunately due to all the tyranny going on here with the Brexit mess and Covaids Plandemic I am unable to send anything outside the UK - it now just gets 'lost', held in depots then returned a month later or it arrives weeks later with massive import charges. It is a ridiculous engineered situation to prevent any trade between UK companies and the rest of the world.
I raccordi sono esattamente gli stessi di un normale filtro a canestro, né migliore né peggiore. Hai bisogno di un booster solo se vuoi inserire più materiali filtranti nel tuo filtro esistente e non è il genere di cose di cui avrai bisogno se il filtro principale è abbastanza grande per l'acquario e lo stock di pesci.
i have used this filter for years and have never known if i had it set up the right way i found another youtubers video last year and followed it but now turns out i have had it upside down this whole time! i have been doubting myself for a long time thinking it was something i was doing wrong because i followed a big youtuber so they couldn't be wrong right? well turns out they can be wrong thank you so much for showing the correct way i have corrected it and my set up has never run smoother and i was also using one of these trojan horse conditioners also recommended by a big youttuber to fix the problems my incorrectly set up filter was causing i was just stuck in a horrible cycle never knowing what i was doing wrong so thank you
(my other account) I'm glad you found the video useful and while there are always numerous ways to achieve a similar result there are definitely ways which work better or quicker than others and also other ways which ensure that the cycle never completes. Let me know how it goes after the changes.
Hi Richard, Thanks for this video I found it to be very informative. I to seem to be guilty of using Purigen although I never recharge it I just replace it. Think it sounds like beat thing to do is not use it at all. Do I need to replace with something else? Use prime aswell but I will swap that for API stress coat or Tetra safe. I have a SICCE Whale 500 which like so many others use your setup method and its a fabulous simple filter, maybe if you get a chance pimp one out 😎👍
I would appreciate any advice rather from Richard, or anyone else for that matter. I'm getting back into the hobby after a three years hiatus due to ill health. Not that i'm any better now, i'm never going to get better, but i'm going to be mechanising the things I cannot do without assistance. I would appreciate any opinions on my planned multi stage filtration set up. Firstly this is going to be a 198l Amazonian Biotope. Moderately heavily stocked, and eventually plenty of plants. Stage 1: Under gravel filter used as the intake for the main filtration stages. Modified to to create better flow if needed, and using Bio-Gravel media as the substrate. Stage 2: An inline heater. I know this isn't actually filtration but, i've included it as it is a part of the filtration water course. Stage 3: An APS EF-2 Booster used as the mechanical pre-filtration stage. This will have ceramic rings filling the bottom dead space, followed by coarse, medium, and fine foams. Stage 4: An APS EF-2000 Canister filter. I plan to fill the dead space with more ceramic rings, then fill all four trays to the rafters with Bio-Home Ultimate to create a massive biological filter. I reckon due to not having to sacrifice a tray to foams that I can get 6.8 to 7Kg of Bio-Home Ultimate in their depending on how I arrange the media. Stage 5: Another APS EF-2 booster as a anoxic biofiltering post-filter stage. Again the bottom dead space filled with ceramic rings, then a bag packed with Bio-Gravel to create a dedicated home for anaerobic bacteria, with space to add carbon, or resin if needed. Stage 6: Radiological filtration in the form of an APS 36W UV. Please let me know what you think.
It is probably a waste to use the biogravel as a substrate in an under gravel system as the fish will much prefer being on sand in an Amazonian set up (loaches, cory etc. do way better on sand). I'd not bother with the under gravel. The filter will hold way more media than you need for a full cycle but you can't have too much filter media. The system sounds very comprehensive. Ring me any time on 07772848730 as I often miss comments and it takes and age to get to emails when they go mad.
Great videos, especially about booster/ prefilters. But how do I maintain good throughput through the filtering system? Putting another punp in series doesn't sound that great, as one may push out more than the other can cope with
Those boosters don't have a pump, they are just inline, so whatever flow your canister filter pumps in will get pumped out. Only problem is if the booster gets clogged and its flow slows down, that will of course slow down the whole flow. But in that case, you should clean your canister/booster anyway. Same clogging can happen without using a booster.
@@kwajrod I also realized that, but with some reading in engineering-for-dummies, you can put two filters (motors) in series and add the head power. The main purpose of my booster/prefilter is that I don't have to deconstruct the bio filter to clean the mechanical filter (that invariably is in the bottom of the canister). Added benefit is that you can use the mechanical filter in draining the tank as well. So, does it make sense to have two filters in series, one fully mechanical, the other fully bio, or did I watch to many TH-cam videos about external filters?
@@andreasheiner3426 If you have the space and money, I think having 2 filters in series could work well, the first mechanical, the second biological. I would suggest the same brand/model/flow for both filters.
@@kwajrod Thanks for the advice; I hadn't realized yet that it's best to have two of the same. I'm in the planning phase, but if I'm using the two-filters setup I'll show you the results. Thanks again
I had this booster filter (prefilter) from sunsun (hw-603 I think) and generally I was quite happe with it BUT unfortunatelly this clips that are holding this lid are quite delicate, and one was domaged during clenup, and after some time of that when I was doing maintanace and switched off main filter remainig three were just broken and this lid was rised by water pressure. Luckly for me I was near by and I was able to close valves to avoid further flood. I do not want to think what would happen if I had some power failure at night or when not nearby... Anyway, until this clips are not redesigned, from my side I do not recommend to use this. There is also one thing that you need to remeber, that this prefilter limits water flow rate quite significantly.
These pre filters are brill.just don’t be heavy handed with the clips,I’ve (4) and mine over 2 years with no problems.just be careful with them that’s all.my flow seems fine.can be a pain to prime if both filters are cleaned though.
@@pondguru Yeah, I was trying to be gentle, with those clips, but still it was damaged. Especially this part what are attached to carnister it self, they are very tiny and fragile. I was thinking to buy now SERA PREFIX FILTER as lid has different closing system, not clips but it is screwed. But finally I decided to buy internal EHEIM Prefiltr (4004320). I hope that it will be sufficent, as surface of sponges are much smaller that in SunSun prefilter but there is no risk that it will be leaking. PS. I had this SunSun prefilter in transparent version (LW-603) . I am not sure if clips are exactly the same in verions shown on move (all white).
I am looking at this filter for my 90 gallon fresh water tank. It looks well designed, simple & affordable. What's your thoughts on the one with the UV light built in? Wouldn't that kill good bacterial in the filter itself? THx
(my other account) I have heard of people using that combo but the ribbed pipe on the Fluval filters is a but awkward to fit to other sizes of pipe or fittings.
That is the main culprit for delaying the bacteria growth - if you check forums you'll see people struggling after 7-8 weeks to get their ammonia and nitrite to zero and they're being recommended to use a host of other treatments to treat the side effects from the first one - that first part of the cycle should only take 2-3 weeks.
@@pondguru I did notice it taking longer getting full cycle with Prime then normal, the fewer water changes i did the better it went. We might be going back to Tetras Aquasafe or JBL Biotopol. All our tanks are stable at 5ppm of nitrate at the moment, we water change once a month now. Nitrates never go past 5ppm during this time. We use 1l of Substrat Pro per 100l of water, static plenum with gravel on top, finished with either sand or aquasoil on top.
What do you think of Zeolite? I was still not quite good in overstocked situations obviously because it strips of mania but as you say it will slow down the cycle I would imagine
Any filter has the potential to leak and the more popular a filter is the more reports there will be of leaking. Always check the main seal around the head of the filter before putting it back together to make sure the seal doesn't get nipped and deformed. When a seal gets mis-shapen or damaged it will generally result in leaking.
I have this filter but was looking to find a much better set up compared to how I have done mine. Thank you for you're info. I like what you have used and I'm going to go with what you suggest! I am cycling 300ltrs! And I have over 36 fish I think in the tank. Have you seen those activated carbon cubes that people buy? What's you're view on that? Do you think they are alright? I use all seachem products and I use Esha for sickness!
You're always better using normal carbon or activated charcoal pellets of you need to draw in staining from bogwood or residual treatments as the impregnated foams don't have anywhere near the amount of carbon on hem compared to a handful of pellets.
@@pondguru I thought you'd say that. I use the activated carbon in my canister. Those carbon cubes are advertised all over facebook as this cool thing that would clear up the aquarium within a day or so... People are attached to the hype on that thinking it's brill. I got one to test it out on a new set up. Just a tank, water and the water treatment. Tank was heading into the cloudy new tank stage on the new set up, so I added that cube, and yes actually within 2 days the water was crystal clear. But they are huge and also have sharp edges that can damage the fish bodies And they do take up a large space. I gave the cube to a friend. I don't need it.
Aaaarrrggghhh.....This is a long video but there is a lot of useful information in here if you can bear my boring voice and schoolboy editing for the duration of the video.
*Time Stamps and useful links:*
Canister filter featured in video: geni.us/2LnO
It is also known as the SunSun 304
Booster filter: geni.us/2bj1
Biohome filter media: www.filterpro.co.uk
Gel balls: (see above - 'Bacteria' page)
Carbon: (see above - 'Water Conditioning' page)
Ammonia Block / Nitrate Remover: (see above - 'Water Conditioning' page)
The description of the Ammonia and Nitrate pads has changed slightly since I made this video - the new recommended amount of pads to use can be found in the link above.
There is also a new design for the boxes.
API Stress Coat: geni.us/BHYeb
API Freshwater Test Kit: geni.us/oOfVb
Seachem Flourish Excel: geni.us/05BK
Easy Carbo Liquid Carbon: geni.us/kkluGf
*Useful Video Links:*
Nitrogen Cycle Video: th-cam.com/video/-O2SCXDO2RI/w-d-xo.html
Filter Sizing Video: th-cam.com/video/L5FkSTYkEAE/w-d-xo.html
Pimp My Filter Playlist: bit.ly/3hpsnq6
*Time Stamps:*
00:00 Intro
00:39 Importance of knowing the flow direction
01:38 Bottom to top flow filter set up
03:30 Gel filter starter balls (Pure Pond from EA)
04:13 Chemical media (Carbon)
05:10 Chemical media (Ammonia Block)
07:47 Chemical media (Nitrate Remover)
08:10 Top to bottom flow filter set up
10:53 How much chemical media?
13:22 Additives which enhance the bacteria development
14:52 Chemicals which delay / stall the bacteria development
21:51 The benefit of specific treatments
23:40 Booster filters (on intake pipe)
26:16 Booster filters (on outlet pipe)
Unfortunately Google / TH-cam doesn't send me any notifications so please ring with any questions.
I hope you found his video useful and if you did then feel free to share it anywhere online, upload it to your own channel or take clips to use anywhere.
If you use the whole video please keep the video description (this thing) intact as it has all the relevant links and time stamps to complement the video.
I never ask for donations, I've got the minimal ads on my videos and never expect anything in return for making the videos ....... but .... if you've found this useful please check out the links above since some will provide the fragments of income I need to keep the roof over my head (and provide the funds needed to ride out the upcoming apocalypse...lol)
You can ring me any time as Google sees fit to send me no notifications or new comments - my number is 07772848730 and feel free to ask me anything. If I don't know the answer I'll just tell you I don't know as there is no point trying to pass myself off as an 'expert' when we're all on a long path of learning.
My channel on the Odysee network: odysee.com/$/invite/@PondGuru:0
I'm not on FBI Book or any of that nonsense so ring me any time, no worries ...... speech is something we have to use before we devolve to be silent.
Well shit dude, wish you would've been more clear years ago. I totally agree with what you are half way saying now. now I gotta re educate my self and friends who trusted what I told em before.
Got my first 10 gallon when I was 13. I’m 60 now and Iv learned more about filtration in last two days watching your videos then I have in my entire life. Thank you friend. 🙏🏽
(my other channel) No worries and I'm glad you found the video useful as I put them out to help.
@@ThousandYardStare - I ordered some biohome from Amazon- 85 dollars for 5 lbs. I then found great wave and it was only half. I ordered 22 lbs. lol 😂
@@whiteowl8703 That's why I always have the link to my site in the video description and pinned comment on the filter videos - it has direct links to the main sellers all over the world.
I'm just the UK distributor and don't have anything to do with the export / stocking of international suppliers and I can't really tell viewers not to shop at certain places but I can strongly advise using the main distributors, especially in the US since there is no point paying more then necessary.
I'm glad getting scalped didn't put you off the media and it's great you found Greatwave as they are the main US distributors.
Relatability
The man the myth, the only intelligent filter expert lol back at it again. Great informational video.
Glad you found it useful, man.
@@pondguru is it a good or a bad thing to have a oversized filter
@@gaywelshboy6811 (my other account) An over-sized filter is no problem as long as the return flow isn't too much for the fish.
Lots of filtration is good, lots of flow isn't always good.
@@gaywelshboy6811 I think you can always reduce the flow of a filter to a degree. Make sure the fish don't get stuck to the inlet.
Over size usually means less clean outs. (Four months seems nicer than every week.)
With a smaller filter, you can use an air curtain along the back of the tank to create a tumbling water motion that keeps the water moving to help carry the waste to the filter inlet. The air curtain gives you yet another thing to fiddle with in your tank to get the minimum amount of movement that will get the job done.
This brings you onto the topic of different sized air pumps with cost, noise, life span, movable air volume, pressure, etc. More hours of debate!
I get the Purigen bit and recharge etc but Prime states: Prime® may be used during tank cycling to alleviate ammonia/nitrite toxicity. It contains a binder which renders ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate non-toxic, allowing the biofilter to more efficiently remove them.
That's what it says but cycling takes way longer while using that and similar conditioners which bind the 'food' bacteria need. It will eventually get there but it gets badly held back - always best to just let the food be available and allow the bacteria to flourish for quickest cycling and fastest processing of pollutants by the filter.
@@pondguru thanks. Am an avid follower of your channel. Keep up the good work
@@welshman71 (My other account) Will do, no worries and I'm glad you find the videos useful as I put them out to help.
Seachem says it only binds it for 24hrs, then you have to add more Prime. Unless you are dosing everyday your theory is incorrect.
I have gravel in my external filter done it one night in an emergency and it’s been in for nearly a year
You are amazing person with massive knowledge. Your videos are priceless
Thank you for great work you do.
I just bought some filter media from your store. I m looking forward to use it and see good results.
Once again thank you and all the best for you and family
I'm glad you find the videos useful and thanks for the order. As long as you have enough media for the tank size and stock the water should be perfect.
Just make sure to use a normal water conditioner (e.g. API Stress Coat) which does not remove / bind / detoxify the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate and the beneficial bacteria population will be free to grow in line with the available food (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate).
Best of luck with the tank and all the best for 2024 and beyond.
Hi,
I had this exact same setup with the booster on the intake and the main canister filled with Biohome. It works very well but even the 5" prefilter clogs up pretty fast.
I eventually went one step futher and replaced the booster with another used Sunsun 304, removed the impeller, not powered and have it running as a full size prefilter. These used sun sun's are dirt cheap and this is well worth doing...
Does a pretty awesome job of polishing the water.
so without the impeller it still syphons?
Genius!👍
hat is a good way to go and many people do that to great effect. The 'classic' range of filters from Eheim are a popular one for using as a pre-filter too.
This is something I've considered doing myself but I'm amazed that just one impeller can move the water through both canisters! Why wouldn't you just leave the impeller in the pre-filter then you can at least plug it in and let it pump if needs be? I am considering running 2 canisters in parallel, I think I may need the ooomph in a 5 foot long 400 litre tank as even my FX4 doesn't really seem powerful enough to me
@@steverabbits (my other account) I will shift the water through both filters as long as you remove the impeller from the 'booster' filter. Here will definitely be some reduction in water flow but it shouldn't be noticeable.
I've been using APS filters on all my tanks and have done for many years. I have the 'booster' filters on all of them as a pre filter. I have all mechanical filtration in the boosters, and biological in the canisters. That way I clean the boosters fortnightly, and the canisters 6 monthly.
My only gripe with this setup is how hard it is to bleed the system. I now use a powerhead to push water in until the air is expelled. Then its fine. The prime button on them is useless when used with a booster.
I ALSO USE THESE 2.3ltr BOOSTER FILTERS ON ALL MY EXTERNAL FILTERS WITH JUST MECHANICAL FILTRATION.there brill,and a very good price to.SAVES HAVING TO TAKE THE MAIN FILTER APART TO CLEAN.PLUS AN EXTEA BASKET FOR THE MEDIA.I DONT TOUCH MINE FOR WELL OVER A YEAR.just clean the Booster now and then,nice and simple 👌🏻👌🏻
Quick trick is to raise the booster above the main filter and use the bottom outlet to run to the filter. Used to have the same problem.
@@davidhills7986 That's a clever solution. My filters are a bit tall tho!
Good stuff and I'm glad they work well for you - yes, the cleaning process could be easier.
Until I just upgraded my tank I had the smaller 1000EF version, it was always difficult to prime, luckily it fits inside a bucket so I always let it siphon fill from the tank with the lid not clamped down until it starts overflowing, then clamp the lid down, that gets pretty much all the air out. With a booster attached it's best to actually suck the water through the intake pipe with your mouth (I know what fish water tastes like believe me!) until the intake pipe is full of water and starts to flow (and the booster canister too obviously) then reattach it to the main canister. The problem with priming is almost always trapped air so just sit and think of ways to get most of it out and it will work. This is the method I found best after 3 years of using the 1000EF. Hope that helps somebody
Great video that summarises all the key knowledge when setting up! I actually have two sets of the same big filter (main pump) plus pre-filter cannisters for one of my tanks. The pre-filters only has sponges that came with it (easy cleaning). I added the filter floss for the extra polish in the pre-filter just before it enters the main pump.One main pump is biological: Base is ceramic biomedia it came with, bottom tray is 4 graded sponge/floss, the rest of the trays are biohome, then peat to top it off. In the other main pump (UV turned on): base is again ceramics, then 4 graded sponge/floss tray, followed by trays of carbon, water softener resins (for Discus tank), and general chemical resins [just so I suck the heck out of all the impurities]. This set up seem to cycle my tank faster than my other tanks. Took about 2 weeks for a heavily stocked planted tank. I do use the water conditioner Prime though. But I may start using my outdoor koi tank that catches rainwater so it is untreated water (except that sponge + carbon in the filter). Once things are settled, I change my chemical main pump over to a the same biological one.
Sounds good to me - thanks for the report.
Good video , can't believe some tubers have a hard time understanding . Just common sense. And you explain it so easy.
I pimped my Fluval FX4 the way Richard teaches, set up with all new media and gel balls and with some old gravel from my previous tank my new 400 litre tank has had ZERO ammonia and ZERO nitrite almost from day one! The nitrate is only slightly raised too but I plan to increase the amount of Biohome to the level where hopefully in a few months the anaerobic bacteria take care of that issue too. I am now thinking of running two filters instead of a filter and wavemaker to enable me to have the larger amount of Biohome needed for the anaerobic bacteria to do their job of eliminating the nitrate and so get a full nitrogen cycle going. It's actually quite fascinating learning how to do all this properly! Your advice has been golden Richard, ta mate!
There generally isn't enough media in a FX4 (3kg) for a 400 litre (normally stocked?) tank but every tank is different. If he nitrate is only slightly up then the level of filtration may be there or thereabouts for eh size of tank and stock. It's a fine line between having too little media and having enough to achieve a positively identifiable level of nitrate which indicates a full cycle.
@@pondguru Hi Richard, I may be calling you about this soon in case you don't get to read this ... the boosters do seem like a really good idea but I have an FX4 atm and I'm not sure if the pipes would fit. Also my main goal is to increase the amount of Biohome I use and create better water circulation. The FX4 holds about 3kg and I'd like nearer 8 if possible so am considering running one of the APSolutions 2000EF filters in parallel with the FX4, positioning the outlet nozzles at either end of the tank, one high to create surface disturbance for oxygenation, one low pointing towards the gravel to encourage proper water circulation and do away with the need for a wavemaker. My tank is 5 feet long and atm the end where the FX4 intake is is a bit quiet re water movement, if anyone has any input on this please fire away!
@@steverabbits (my other account) Ring me any time, no worries.
He loves his bumpy foam pads. It's the thickness and density that counts. Bumpy foam that gets squished flat loses any bumps. Even if the bumps on one foam matches the corresponding bumps on the next foam pad, then you would have areas that will have a peak on one pad feeling the valley of the next pad. Why would an irregular foam pad layout work better than a regular thickness of foam layers?
By layering foams you create huge voids between the levels which will hold a nation of muck and the available surface area for muck to settle out on is huge compared to flat foams.
If you've ever cleaned a filter with layered flat foams you will see that the surface is severely clogged but there is very little muck inside the foam.
Any foams is better than nothing and as long as you're using foams with a high contact surface area and don't 'squish them flat' the filtration will be more effective in terms of settling muck out and extending the cleaning intervals compared to similar flat foams.
If you've never used bumpy foams none of what I said above will make sense.
@@pondguru So, if it's the unsquished shape of the foams, then you wouldn't want the foam ripples/lumps to interlock with each other which would remove the voids. You would want the foams to have the ripples/lumps from one foam to be in contact with the flat side of the next foam layer to maximise the voids?
When I have tried all foam filled trays with a couple of similar types of foams from coarsest to medium, to finest (3 coarsest + 3 medium + 3 finest + 1 polly wool pad), the fish muck is found between similar layers, which shows that the fish waste can travel through the foams and not just get stuck against the outer edge of the next finer foam layer.
When I have removed the waste from the outside of the foams, I have always found a great deal of waste within the foam layers.
If the void between foam layers caught the maximum amount of waste, then having only one foam layer of each of the 3 trays instead of the usual 3 layers of foam per tray would allow a gap of two layers of empty space to fill up with the fish waste.
I like the way that moving water will always find the easiest path. And as one path becomes clogged with muck, the next easiest path is found. This works well if there are no large gaps to carry the water directly to the next grade of foam.
The polly wool pad does not have any allowance for the tray handles, like the foam layers do. To me it seems strange that this must be to place the polly wood pads on top of the plastic grill on the top of the highest layer. I worry that strands of the polly wool could be dragged into the impeller.
To remove the maximum number of particles in the water, within a set time, high flowing water is best, but to allow the water to interact will the beneficial bacteria, a slower water flow would be better. I suppose at a faster water flow, a greater volume of water would pass more times through the bacterial media? (Could too much water strip out the beneficial bacteria?)
After looking above at the amount of what I've type, I think I worry too much about what should be a relaxing hobby!
@@awoodward37 It is important to keep good biological media working in clean water so the foams and fine pad would all be before the media.
You're right to be concerned about a fine pad sitting under the pump intake in a canister filter since some poly pads can break up and get wrapped around the impeller - it's important to get good quality fine pads and use them in the correct place.
With regard to water flow the faster flow allows more oxygen and food to be brought to the bacteria living on filter media but a slower flow will allow for more contact time. That's where a good quality porous filter media is perfect for a fast or slow flow since the internal structure of the media will slow the flow down inside the media regardless of how fast water flows around each piece of media.
Basically as long as you have a suitably sized filter which is properly set up you don't need to worry about it.
Sunsun hw-630b inlet from top and outlet from bottom? Thanks
Your talking about prime.
That is one of the main culprits but here are a few more. I always prefer to remove toxins and let Nature do her job without hindrance hence I would recommend a straightforward conditioner hat does not bind ammonia, nitrite or nitrate for best results.
whats the make of the conditioner as i dont know which one it is to sty away from it
(my other channel) In most cases it will be Seachem Prime but there are similar 'conditioners' which have the same devastating effect on bacteria - basically avoid anything which claims to bind / detoxify or remove ammonia, nitrite and nitrate - there aren't many conditioners which mess with the bacteria (starve it) but a long as you use a normal conditioner (e.g.; API stress coat) you can easily achieve a full cycle with a recommended amount of suitable media. Although the manufacturers of the damaging 'conditioners' will claim that 'science' proves that they do no harm they are 100% lying - scientists are bought easier than politicians. If their 'solution' is to buy another one of their products (e.g. stability) to mask the side effects of the initial damaging chemical (e.g. prime) then you know it's a scam operating to a pharmaceutical business template.
@@ThousandYardStare i have fluval conditioner atm . it says it rids heavy metals aswell . is that one ok as ill get api after i finish that bottle of fluval stuff
@@gumpysee3644 (my other channel) Yes that will be no problem - just avoid conditioners which mention removing / detoxifying / binding ammonia, nitrite and nitrate as they lock up the 'food' bacteria needs to prosper.
@@ThousandYardStare thanks fir the advice mate , much appriciated
@@gumpysee3644 No worries, any time.
Great and very informative video Richard.
Put it this way, often when I do a water change using ‘that product that binds toxins’ my nitrates start to climb after 2-3 days then start to go down slowly until the next water change. Makes sense why it’s happening now!
That's a clear indicator that the bacteria 'food' is being restricted then available, then processed by the bacteria. It';s always best to simply allow i to be available then the bacteria will maintain a constantly high population.
I must have missed it but what water conditioner leaves ammonia, nitrites and nitrates in the water?
I've been using prime as well and my nitrates are always higher a couple days after a water change leaving me to rethink my life.
@@richhead1999 (my other account) Any 'normal' conditioner like API Stress Coat, Aquasafe, Tapsafe, Watersafe etc. simply makes the water safe for life.
However, any conditioner which claims to 'remove, detoxify, bind' the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate starves the bacteria and ensures that the filter works less efficiently.
Assuming that you have everything else in place to achieve a full cycle then a simple swap to a 'normal' conditioner will likely see the cycle complete.
I have one of those aps booster filters hooked up to my fluval 406. They are the best thing since canister filters became a thing, I will never run a canister without a booster now.
Have you noticed a change in flow? Or does your booster have a pump?
@@chandler2561 it reduces flow by 20-30% which I can afford to lose because the filter pump is rated for tanks over twice the size I'm running it on , like most fish keepers we run oversized filters so a slight loss in flow is no big deal it actually filters the water better when its passing thru the media at a steady pace
I have been using prime for years😮 now switching to api tap water conditioner.
Hopefully you will notice a change if you've been struggling to achieve a full cycle when everything is in place to make it happen.
Chiming in on the conditioner issue. The main problem is over use. The amount of water going into the tank is the only thing that should be treated before its put in the tank not the whole tank volume. I thank you Richard for hi lighting the bacteria starvation issue with binding of bacterial nutrients. Please note using ammonia and nitrate pads could equate to the same thing. The key is how many times the media is exposed through water flow to allow bacteria a chance to feed.
Yes, that makes sense to me.
Hello. I enjoy your filter demonstrations.
One thing that I notice is that you always seem to put your fine mechanical filters (including floss) at the bottom, or as the first stage in the filtration. While intuitively, this makes sense, I've actually found that in the case of the large, bottom up flowing canisters, it is best to run your fine mechanical as the LAST, stage. This way, you can just crack the filter open and change out just the fine filter, as it will be in the top layer. It is more convenient to service it this way. Not as fiddly as removing all of the baskets of bio media each time as it is the fine filter that will clog first, and if it is burried at the bottom, you have to try pretty hard to get to it, and might not service it as often as it needs. This is the way that Eheim instructs you to do it, and it makes sense. If you are worried that the bio media is going to get clogged, you can put a thin layer of black (course) foam at the very bottom, and run a course foam sock on the intake to prevent clogging (but it doesnt actually clog very quickly, because the bigger particles break down on their way to the fine (last top) filter.
Also, leaving the bottom space below the bottom tray empty rather than packing it with stuff is usually what the manufacturer had in mind. often this area is designed to act as a swirling chamber for the big stuff, which helps beat it up into smaller bits so that it can make its way to the final, mechanical layer, at the top of the canister.
Thanks for the comment - it is refreshing to get comments which question the method of filtration instead of just nodding in agreement. Basically whatever works for you is the best and if you want to set a filter up exactly as the manufacturer says then that is no problem. However I'll give a few examples of filtration from macro down to miniature below in a retort to:
"Also, leaving the bottom space below the bottom tray empty rather than packing it with stuff is usually what the manufacturer had in mind. often this area is designed to act as a swirling chamber for the big stuff, which helps beat it up into smaller bits so that it can make its way to the final, mechanical layer, at the top of the canister."
The last thing a filtration system is designed to do is smash large pieces up into smaller pieces since they are then more difficult to filter out.
Take any water treatment plant or sewage plant anywhere in the world as an example since they basically have 3 stages of filtration:
1 - A series of screens to mechanically filter out suspended solids which are large then progressively smaller until the water is mechanically cleaned.
2 - A biological stage where bacteria work to make the water healthier. It is more efficient if water is cleaned prior to entering this stage.
3 - A chemical stage (if necessary) where the chemistry of the water is altered or maintained for release back to Nature or for storage / distribution.
On a smaller scale a 'proper' koi pond will have a bottom drain leading to a gravity fed filtration system where large waste can be caught with high efficiency in brushes / screen / foams. That system would be Intake, Filter, Pump and an aquarium canister filter is exactly the same processes, just even smaller.
Water is drawn through the system in the most efficient manner without smashing up large waste into smaller waste which will quickly clog a fine pad (since the broken up larger waste would now be tiny and not caught in the coarse and medium foams).
That is why I always have the mechanical filtration first and put rings in the bottom (if possible) to allow heaviest muck to settle out before it even gets to the foams thus extending the time it takes to clog the foams (and fine pad) and ensuring the water is clean before entering the biological zone for maximum efficiency.
The primary function of any filter is not to let the muck get into the biological zone or through that to have to be caught at the end of the process. Having the fine pad after the biological zone simply holds back fine muck (which should have already been caught if the filter was set up properly) and serves to prematurely clog and reduce the efficiency of any good quality porous media.
Apologies, I've gone on way too long since I get fired up when companies manufacturing filters are talking nonsense about something which should be (and is) a very simple and Natural process - hence the 90+ videos in this filter video series where the method is basically the same for setting up every filter.
Does anyone try to marry up sponge filters with a canister filter? Would it require too many spouge filter cleans? It would reduce the canister maintenance...
Having a booster filter on the intake side of a canister is quite common but many people also use a coarse block of foam on the intake pipe inside the tank to further reduce the maintenance on the canister filter.
If a decent sized booster filter is used on the intake side of a canister there should be no need to do anything with the canister other than fill it with good media and forget about it.
Your 100 precent about product X water conditioner .i stick to one of the simple standard water conditioner's. I noticed with product X. Conditioner i struggled to maintain an established tanks water parameters.switched back to a basic one ,all good everything back to practically zero.only reason i used it was because it was concentrated, therefore got more water changes per bottle ,but if it messes up your hard gotten water parameters whats the point
(my other channel) For sure - only people who look into it will see the hidden harm it does which is why most people using it will also use a bacteria additive after every water change.
There's only 1 winner when 2 products are used instead of 1 and it's not the fish keeper.
but this trays aren't sealed enough, small debris will be going thru bypassing actual filtering.. It will take much longer to achieve crystal clear water or might be impossible at all.
The booster canister filters..... Do they have their own water pump built in? If the "booster" filters shift less water than the main canister, wouldn't it reduce the overall water rate?
Generally booster filters do not have their own pumps so the booster will move no more or no less water than the main filter - it's simply an in-line filter and as long as you have foams in the booster which aren't too fine you'll not notice a reduction in flow from the main filter.
@@pondguru Thanks.
Set up my aqua one the way you say to do an aquis as they are similar. I cleaned last year and the flow still hasn't dropped and it tests zero on all tests. So gonna leave it as it is until the flow starts to drop.
Awesome stuff - it amuses me that I still see people saying that it's impossible to achieve a full cycle using filter media to support the right bacteria. I love getting reports like this so thanks and I wish you the best of luck with the tank going forward.
Hi can one canister filter running 2 booster
This so what i need to do for my Juwel lido 200 ,,,, Thank you ,,,
I want to connect a booster filter to my inlet and outlet of my Fluval 207 ,,
Will my Fluval corrugated hose connect to the Booster cannister fixings ?
i was thinking on using the small booster as a prefilter and then into the 207 and back out to the large booster , that is filled with Bio ultimate ,,,,,
I already use your Bio gravel in my internal Juwel Bio M and the Fluval 207. I have 4 boxes in the Juwel and 2 trays filled in the Fluval ,,,
im going to Stop using Prime dechlor and switch to API stress coat as its killing the food for the bacteria to grow .
Merry Christmas
power info, Can it filter a 70gal. mbuna tank? (both the big and the small canister filter)
I have had a tetra ex1200 plus running on my 240 lt tank seemed to be ok until it started leaking 😢, so ordered a new AP solution 1400 & the 2.5lt pre filter & possibly most importantly I've ordered 3kg of bio home from you. Im hoping after watching your helpful video this will set me up well, thanks for tips.
Nice one - I'm glad you found the video useful.
Thanks for the order and best of luck with the tank.
@@pondguru 1st order finally arrived today (went to wrong sorting office, NOT your fault), so now I finally have 3kg so will fill & set up new filler + pre filter. All set up now not sure my poor internal filter was going to do the job for much long, just glade I had a spong filter on tank too . Thks David.
@@lorddjg (my other channel) It's good to hear that it arrived safely - I don't know what's going on with delivery companies lately but it seems like they are getting more useless by the day. It's like nobody wants to work any more and those who do take no pride in their work.
Does the fluval 207 and 107 does the water come down from the top.
I've featured a few of the Fluval filters in my 'Pimp My Filter' series of videos and the '07 series all work the same.
Water enters and goes through the coarse foam cartridge then rises up through the trays. Bottom tray should always be medium foam and fine pad followed by trays of filter media.
Hi, Richard i have a fluval 207 and 107 whats the best video to watch on best way to fill filter, thought course sponge first then crramics then fine ormedium sponge last
I have just answered the same question on another video?
I've featured a few of the Fluval filters in my 'Pimp My Filter' series of videos and the '07 series all work the same.
Water enters and goes through the coarse foam cartridge then rises up through the trays. Bottom tray should always be medium foam and fine pad followed by trays of filter media.
Can we use 603 b as prefilter . Canister can handle the pressure of flow coming from 603b .
Puedes subir un video de cómo preparar el agua para el cambio ?
Simplemente usaría un limpiador de grava para limpiar el tanque una vez a la semana; eso dejará caer agua del tanque. Luego rellénelo con agua nueva a la que se le haya agregado un declorador (por ejemplo, API Stress Coat). Eso hará que el agua sea segura.
Has anyone tried the efx booster just on its own? I use the efx+ 2000 and a tidal 75 for my bigger tank which has been a great combo for the past 7 months. Now, I am in need of an affordable filter for my smaller tank which already has tidal 55 but I just need something more.
Good day, I followed your advice and bought the external additional smaller canister filter. I had a problem when following your link there were several choices. When I ordered I received the canister however the outlet inlet hoses were 12 mm not the 16/18 mm. So, I bought adapters and connected the hoses together. It worked but I believe the flow is being slowed down due to the smaller hoses connected to the system. Can you specifically point out the correct mini canister filter to use, so that I don't have the problem with the hoses. I know this was 2 yrs ago but I hope you can still help and advise. What you said about the use of the smaller canister makes perfect sense and that is the way I have designed my filtration. Thanks in advance.
(my other channel) It sounds like you've bought the 1.2 litre option instead of the 2.3 litre option for the pre-filter.
I would never recommend the 1.2 litre version since it is so much smaller and less compatible with most canister filters. The 1.2 litre version has foams which are only about 4" diameter whereas the 2.3 litre version foams are 5" diameter. It may not sound like much of a difference but the surface area is massively different and therefore the filtering area is massively different too.
There is only a couple of £ between the different models but it is always the 2.3 litre version I recommend.
@@ThousandYardStare I think they’ve changed the size of the inlet/outlet I checked my purchase and it’s the HW 603b I can see pics online that appear to have the bigger hose but the manual I found on line says 12 mm.
I figured it out, the 603b has a pump and the smaller inlet/outlet hose sizes, 603 has no pump and larger inlet/outlet openings why it’s this way idk but it could be reversed having pump on 603 would make more since.
@@marvinsmartt468 The pictures online are unfortunately poorly labeled as they show the different versions and are randomly labeled as 603 and 603b.
The version without the pump is a proper pre-filter and the version with the pump is designed to be a self contained external filter for a small tank - it's not meant to be used as a pre-filter due t o the fact that it has smaller fittings and a pump which will restrict flow terribly if used as a pre-filter.
The 2.3 litre version of the pre-filter is the only one I would recommend.
@@ThousandYardStare yes it’s utterly ridiculous how poorly they are mislabeled and described. I think I’m gonna just remove it all together and replace with another separate system(fuval 307). That gives me 3 filters, one polar aurora 525 and 2 307’s on a 125 gallon. Going peacock cichlids maybe 20-25. I have set filters up as you and others recommend. Thinks that’s enough?
Sir make video on Shiruba xb 312 canister filter
Can you recommend a chlorine conditioner for water changes?
Just wanted to add, thanks to you I have zero nitrates in all my tanks. I bought and packed my filters with biohome ultimate and wow!!! I don’t make water changes but I do top up the water level with tap water. Do I need to add conditioner?
That is great to hear - thanks for the report.
Generally you'd still need to remove uneaten food and fish waste from the tank unless it is all being removed into the filter (then the filters are cleaned once every 1-2 months).
Depending on where you live in the country the water from the tank could be very different as far as chemicals goes and the nearer you are to cities and centers of large population the greater need there will be for a water conditioner to neutralize the chemicals in the tap water.
API Stress Coat is one I always recommend since I've never heard of any problems with that one.
From reading 📖 books and things and ingredients the in water treatment says not to use for fish intended for human consumption and has binding agents in it like sodium thiosulfate
What are your thoughts on running a tunze 3181 macro algae reactor for a marine tank would you run it between the inlet or after the canister on the outlet or just separately would like to set up an oase thermo 850 with lily pipes so only have one inlet and one outlet pipes in the tank if pos for a clean look
Question:
I have an EHEIM professional 4+ 600 but picked up an additional EHEIM professional 4+ 350, at a steal. I would like to run the filters in series, so that the 350 has foam, with fine filter material and the 600 contains all the bio media. I know prefilters are an option, but I figured the 350 could work as well. I can’t think there would ever be an over or under pressurization issue, causing leaks, if I put the 600 second but I wanted to get some input. The goal isn’t to increase flow, but to have one unit that receives regular maintenance instead of two.
Like the prefilter, a smaller canister filter in front of the main filter should work the same, just with an added boost. Am I wrong?
Also, I think either pump would be able to power the system, in some limited capacity, if one failed. The working filter would just need to push the nonworking filters impeller around till fixed.
What are your thoughts?
Looks like you address the concept in video 71. Thanks!
Could u say if seachem prime is a good water conditioner not a trogan horse 1
boosters are ment to postpone cleaning of the main filter , you need lots of fine "wool" in the booster to prevent as much particles entering and pluging into the filter , by maintaining the booster filled with wool which traps most of solids as soon as possible remooves the source of nitrates , if implamented correctly it can lengthen the service of the main filter from once a month to twice a year .
the small diameter boosters are great to be used as polishers , plugged with fine carbon media can do the job much more efficient and faster than putting the same media in the main canister
generally u need a bigger amount of wool than shown here to keep the media as clean as possible otherwise they not only loose theyre effectiveness but they become a source of nitrates thus the nickname of canister filters " Nitrate Factories"
I was going to buy 2 of these for my filters. My tank is cloudy with tiny particles and I have fine wool in every tray (I have 2 of these 2,000lph filters) but still isn't getting it all. I think it might be the food I use, I'm not overfeeding, just think it's messy. So I was thinking of buying 2 of these boosters and filling them with fine wool but was going to put them on the outlet so that once the water has gone through the main filters, it's then polished by the booster. Do you think then that it would be better going through the boosters first? I was worried that the larger particles would reduce the flow significantly in the booster
@@ryanmcgeown4170 too much fine wool is not particulary good either a coarser type is always good to prescede the wool in order to prevent it from cloging easily , what system u have , what fishes and what food you use ?
I have a 600L tank with about 23 peacock cichlids. I have the 2 efx 2,000 filters with the same media as this video (same foams and bio home ultimate) in each filter with a fine wool pad at the top of each tray, 250ml of purigen and a sponge filter (the black sponge with the weight on). 2x 12,000lph wave makers and a surface skimmer so thought filtration would be pretty good. The fish food is from Herons pet world, probably considered a cheap food but it has really brought out the colours in my cichlids
@@ryanmcgeown4170 the two prefilters is a good option to have although it will not so.lve all problems , it will make the maintance a bit easier by not having to open the main filters in order to service the wool / pads which will all be located on the prefilter , in your case i would just change to frozen foods , that way the pollutants get slashed both in apearnce of the water but more so on the chemical parameters , as for color even the simple un enriched foods may provide a good show , there are also enriched ones to add even more pop of color
I have plenty of frozen foods so I'll change to just that for a bit and see how I get on. Thanks for your advice
hi just recieved some biohome ultimate from you to go in my all pond solution 2000 efx+ filter and was wondering how you would rate the aps filter against something like the fluval fx filters i have a all pond solution 1000 on my 200 litre african cichlid tank with biohome media and my tank is always clear and fully cycled the highest my nitrates have been is 10ppm with this filter and media i am getting a new 600 litre tank soon thats what the new filter is for
You dont mention the fit, how much bypass does that filter allow on the outsides of that tray.
Is the sunsun filters any good which one would you recommend I have a 35g fish tank wiv two fantail goldfish
Hi there pondguru,im from malaysia and im trying to purchase the ammonia block 3 in 1 but couldnt find it even in amazon.dont mind if you share the link to me. Thanks
can you use booster filter with fluval FX6? has anyone tried?
I've had a few reports of people using a booster on an FX6 but it slowed the flow down noticeably.
Given that the FX filters main strength is the amount of foam they have it makes no sense to reduce that down into a booster filter which will clog way more quickly than the main filter.
@pondguru thank you sir. an honor for the legend to respond. thank you everything you've done for the hobby.
@@montellanojavelosa6249 No worries although I'd refute the 'legend' status. As long as I've helped someone I'm happy.
Hello Pondguru. Wanted to take an advice from you regarding whether can we use 2 eheim classic 150s as a pre-filters on the two inlet sides of eheim XL1200 so that we can get more space for bio media in the third tray of XL1200.
(my other channel) That would probably work no problem although there may be issues with the pipe size of the 1200 and 150 not being compatible - you may have to get some step up / down converters for the pipe.
@@ThousandYardStareYes I totally agree with you on that point. Thanks for the advice . Instead of eheim 150 , will go for Netlea G2 Pre Filter as this is newly available in India plus fits pipe size of 16/22 mm of 1200XL.
@@shivamrishi1338 Nice one - that sounds good to me and best of luck with the tank.
@@ThousandYardStare Thanks for your valuable advice. Will look forward to watching your videos on pimp my filter.
@@shivamrishi1338 No worries, any time.
ATM Paradigm water conditioner..Oase biomaster thermo filter with biohome ultra filter media...Thoughts ? 400 litre tank
Where can I get a new EF-2 booster filter all pond's won't ship to the USA
Ebay has them.
@@kwajrod thanks
Says on your website easy carbo will help the bacteria
could you please review and uvc extreme 1200 onse?
Hi can you use the booster with the Fx6
(my other channel) I'd advise against using the APS booster, even the 2.3 litre version as it will slow the flow down quite a bit for the FX6.
Stupid question...So that big filter you have there. Could you use that on a 250ltr goldfish tank or whatever small tank and because it's 'too' big would you get away with cleaning it less? Or would it not work properly. Thanks
Hi Pondguru, I've been using both prime and purigen for 2 years in a reasonably heavily stocked 325lt tank. If you are right this could be a game changer. I keep detailed records of parameters and water changes and will be sure to see the results if you are correct. Great work mate, keep it up.
If everything else in in place to achieve a full cycle and it's not happening then the chemicals being used in the tank are almost always the reason why it won't complete - I'd love to see the results as such a simple change can make a massive difference to the efficiency of a system.
@@pondguru I have an aqua one ocellaris 1400uv pimped as per one of your vids but the only thing I don't have is the biohome media as I can't get my hands on it here in Melbourne Australia. Not sure if I can get the full cycle without but can see where you're coming from. Already have api stress coat so will drop the purigen and see how the nitrates respond. Thanks mate, love your work.
No worries and we do have a distributor which is linked on the FilterPro page (AU flag at top of page) - it is Genesis Group for AU.
If you can't get any of the Biohome the next best would be the substrat pro from Eheim as it has a god internal structure.
curious to know after 2 years how the change went!
Richard, I really love your videos, they are filled with a great deal of common sense and knowledge, really helped me understand aquarium filtration better, however I want to point something out:
Seachem excel is just polymerised glutaraldehyde - a chemical used primarily for disinfection and sterilization of surfaces and equipment. Its non-polymerised version is really toxic and can blind or poison you, which is why for aquarium purposes the manufacturers use the less reactive polymerised version of the chemical.
The main use of glutaraldehyde in the aquarium hobby is as an algae killer, since it kills BBA. At one point there was a trend to use it as a pressurised CO2 replacement in planted tanks, however it was proven that achieving a concentration where the carbon released would be enough to influence plant growth will actually be deadly to all life inside the aquarium, there was a study by JBL explaining why they do not offer "liquid carbon" solutions.
I'm very skeptical of any claims that excel is beneficial to bacteria since its main usage is as microorganism killer.
So basically fish in cycle you need the binding water conditioners otherwise ammano nitrite will kill the fish or cause health problems risk I’m willing to take to keep the fish safe
Hello, do you recommend these filters? I’m looking to set up a discus tank. Thank you
I have a 120Ltr tank with 3 goldfishes .. I have an EHEIM 2215 with 2 kg of Biohome Ultimate for 1 year now. I follow your guides , every step and every detail but I have not achieved zero nitrates... I have 30-35ppm every 10 days and I do a 60% water change.. What should I do ? Is buying a sunsun 704B gonna help ?
We recommend 2kg of media per 100 litres for a goldfish tank so that may be a major reason why the nitrate hasn't come down further. However, 35ppm after 10 days when you have goldfish would indicate that even with the amount you have there is lower than normal nitrate. With the extra half kilo (or more if you have space for it) that will likely see the cycle fully completed.
You can never have too much filtration but it is easy to have too little - the difference between not enough and enough is often a very small amount.
I would kill for 30-35ppm nitrates! Lol My setup is still very new and im at 100ppm in 10 days
Hi Pal, I have my All Pond Solutions FEX 2000 + hooked up now to my 350 litre tank and have my cycle complete, but I seem to be suffering from NitrAtes now. I am going to stop using Prime and use the Tetra conditioner instead, but I do 30 - 40% water changes religiously every week conditioning the water before it enters the tank. I only feed around half a teaspoon of pellets a day split into 4 smaller feedings with big gaps. Where am I going wrong with the NitrAtes. I have 0 ammonia 0 nitrite Ph is 7.4
NitrAte 40 ppm. I can't seem to bring this level down. I have plenty of plants in. Any help would be appreciated? I have the usual ceramic rings, bio balls, etc. I am going to get a booster canister, too.
A complete cycle is the 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and very low nitrate but it is good to hear that you've got the aerobic side of filtration working well enough to complete that half of the cycle.
There are 2 reasons why the nitrate would still be high:
1 - Prime starving the bacteria. Not enough active anaerobic bacteria means that other than the plants nothing is processing the nitrate.
2 - The filter is set up to support only aerobic bacteria if it has ceramic rings and plastic balls. No anaerobic bacteria means that the plants are solely responsible for nitrate reduction so if you didn't have the plants the nitrate would surely be higher but they can only do so much.
You will not need a booster if the filter is set up properly since it will easily hold 5kg of Biohome Ultimate - that will be more than enough media to support enough anaerobic bacteria to naturally process the nitrate in a normally stocked 350 litre tank.
If it is Tetra Aquasafe you've switched to that will be good as it simply makes the water safe for life without starving bacteria by messing with the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate it needs to prosper.
Hope that makes sense.
@pondguru cheers, I did a 50% using Tetra Pond dechlorinator. I also used Tetra Balance and it brought it down from 40 ppm to 20 ppm nitrAte the next day.
I have about 10 plants in now also.
Thanks for your response 👍
I look into getting a booster filter and using biohome in it. The tank isn't heavily stocked. I have 4 fancies around 4 inches long. They are nearly 3 years old. That Tetra Balance worked well for initially lowering the NitrAte, but I thought it would have done more for my kh also. We have super soft water with very little kh & gh. I have to remineralise my water at every water change because the kh and gh get diluted. I've thought more about doing smaller chances now over the week so as not to mess with the kh & gh too much at a time.
@@jonnyshock9165 Yes, filtration is everything and swapping the plastic media and ceramic rings out for Biohome will ensure that you do not need a booster.
The Tetra nitrate reducing 'balance' is a good short term solution to high nitrate but it bounces back before the next treatment then you get into an uneccessary cycle of treatment. Proper filtration will remove the 'need' for any chemicals other than a simple dechlorinator since all the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate will be processed naturally by the filter (bacteria).
If you have very low pH, soft water it isn't great for goldfish since they are happier in a relatively high pH (7.8) and highly mineralised water. With the right substrate and rocks it should be easy to set up the tank so that any water change isn't a huge swing in conditions. With a good substrate (e.g. Aragonite sand / crushed coral) and suitable rocks (e.g. ocean rock, spaghetti rock, tuffa or anything else light in colour) the pH, hardness and other conditions will be set for goldfish with no need for temporary chemical adjustment.
Good filtration and a good set up will result in 10%-15% weekly water changes (as long as it takes to quickly go over the substrate with a gravel cleaner to remove uneaten food and fish waste) and that in turn results in more stable conditions, less spent on 'treatments' and happier fish.
Hi I'm thinking of getting a booster to go with my fluval 307 will it increase the flow rate much? Cheers
Could you do a "Pimp my Filter" of the Fluval C Series? Currently have the C4. Would be Much Appreciated! 😊
Do you think I could use the EF100 pump as pre filter? I have a spare one. Or would a pump on both devices cause flow issues?
What is the best water conditioner is best to use?
(my other channel) Any normal water conditioner will allow the bacteria to thrive by simply making the (tap) water safe for life.
As long as you avoid any conditioners claiming to 'remove / detoxify / bind' the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate the filter will cycle quickly. The ammonia, nitrite and nitrate is needed for the bacteria to feed on and expand the population until the filter fully matures so the last thing you want to do is put it on a starvation diet.
High pondGuru. Have curious question if you had two booster filters together on the same canister filter would that still work out properly? What would you think about that
Ideally you would only have one pre-filter 'booster' fitted as fitting two of them would certainly reduce the flow and reduce the effectiveness of the main filter - if you feel the need to fit 2 x pre-filters to your canister then it is definitely time to invest in a properly sized canister filter for your tank and forget about farting about with multiple pre-filters.
Could you use two pre-filter booster on
Equal hypermax 4500 or equal uni 700 they both have two intake and two or eheim pro three 12000 XL two intake and one outtake canisters
@@Stan-q7n It would work in that scenario since you would have 2 x intake pipes on those types of filters but with the Aquael Hypermax 4500 it has an easy clean pre-filter built into the filter so there is no need to add an extra pre-filter.
I know the equal 4500 has pre-filter it was just throwing in with the other two canisters because that's the only three canisters that I came across with dual oat tapes and intakes would there be any more like them but good and big eyes to equal hypermax 4500 with a booster pre-filter was thinking more media for the filter itself wouldn't that be a little better
@@Stan-q7n Spell-check may be playing games with that response as it makes no sense.
Love all you videos . That being said have you caved now we need a pre filter ? For the filter ?
Sun filters are great and your sets ups are wonderful fx6 / fx5 videos the same but why do sun sun need a pre filter ? And why always the bio media let's see you go back to your roots .. instead of selling products . We all have loved and see your videos and your knowledge and appreciation for that just get back to your roots of helping people not selling more
The videos don't help anyone?
I'm currently 80+ videos into a series which has cost me a small fortune to make but I make the Pimp My Filter videos to help people set their filters up efficiently. Those videos are purely for people who own a specific filter or are considering buying a specific filter (which I do not sell) and none of the videos are sponsored by any company or individual since the information in them has to be authentic.
I supply all the bio media for the series at my own cost and send the filters back to their owners at my own cost - how many other channels would spend £1000's and hundreds of hours to make a video series or do anything without 'sponsors', begging links, join button or being a paid 'ambassador'?
With regard to the 'need' for a pre-filter you don't need a pre-filter unless there is a need for one. For example if the stock in the tank increases and there is a need for more filtration instead of buying a whole new (larger) filter you can buy a booster which will enable one of the trays in the existing filter (which would normally be used for foams) to be filled with media to increase the filtering capacity of the system.
With regard to bio media that is very important as it holds the vast amounts bacteria necessary to process the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. It takes a suitable amount of viable bio media to hold enough bacteria to process the pollutants.
I use the Biohome media in the videos since it has a structure which allows for the aerobic and anaerobic bacteria to colonize it - the aim is to achieve a full cycle and that is less achievable or impossible with the vast majority of other filter media types.
I made a video a while back which may be of use to appreciate how very different bio media is: th-cam.com/video/QTtAUYR67Eg/w-d-xo.html
That will hopefully illustrate why I use the Biohome media in the filtration videos.
However, viewers are obviously free to use whatever foams and filter media they want or whatever is available in their country.
I tend to use Biohome in the videos as it is something I have in quantity here (since I sell it), it works to achieve a full cycle and I know from thousands of user reports how much media is needed for different stocking levels to achieve a full cycle. I do not have as much information on any other media and therefore the information in the videos would not be accurate if I used another type of media and it is important for me to relay accurate information.
To be fair to your comment if I hadn't undertaken the long running, time consuming and expensive series of videos known as 'Pimp My Filter' I would have more time for DIY filter videos and other types of videos that I'd rather be making but when I commit to something I see it through fully.
If I didn't have a family, full time job and a garden to consider I'd happily make videos all day, every day on all sorts of topics and I'd love to do that but the only way to make that a reality would be for me to take the Faustian bargain and sell out by becoming an 'ambassador', having sponsors, having a join button, channel merchandise, paid live streams, members content etc. etc........ all of which I will never do.
Basically you're stuck with whatever videos I make on this channel, lol
Thanks for watching and all the best for 2024.
As a somewhat newbie I really wish he would have said which ones not to use in HIS OPINION... But I get not wanting to start anything negative...
Maybe daft question but I've recently bought filter and tank off friend it was set up as saltwater tank but I've cleaned everything to death as what to set as freshwater he had the media in your video would I be able to use it for fresh water now it's been soaked and cleaned
The filter is fine to use in freshwater after being cleaned but it may be worth giving the media an hour or so in a hot oven before using it in another system. It will still contain some of the minerals from the saltwater system but you will burn off any organic matter and eliminate the risk of bringing anything which could harm the new system in. The minerals / trace elements still left in the media from the saltwater tank will get free into the system but will be in such small amounts that it will not affect the freshwater parameters, plus it will be diluted with every water change.
As long as you haven't soaked the media in bleach it will be fine to use after a good baking but if you've used bleach to 'clean' the media it will have to be scrapped.
No just soaked and rinsed in tape water thank you getting back to me leaned so much from your channel brilliant content
@@talkofthetank2308 (my other account) Sounds good to me - i will just need a good baking before use in that case.
2:28 - Never put these balls in the bottom because the intake has strong flow and will knock the balls around causing extra noise.
Hi I bought the bio kit for the fx6 what pre booster filter do you recommend I think that will save me cleaning the main filter as much as the sponges get mucky I got gold fish in a 720l tank
I run a canister filter with biohome but have not seen a reduction in nitrates. What affect would slowing the flow down make. I am thinking of a big canister with slow flow through biohome . I have German blue rams in a 30 gallon with an eheim Ecco pro and I’m thinking of adding an eheim professional 11 , the flow rate would be too high for the fish so if I slow rate down would the biohome work more effectively?
Slowing the flow can have a massive benefit as far as reducing nitrates go as it allows the media to support a greater percentage of anaerobic activity (bacteria). The lower the flow the greater the percentage of the bacteria will be anaerobic (for reduction of nitrate) and likewise the higher the flow the greater the percentage of bacteria will be aerobic (for reduction of ammonia and nitrite).
Feel free to ring me any time, no worries.
@@pondguru thank you . I thought that might be the case
I have connected the filters in series . Then I turned on the Ecco, the motor is driving the water through both filters so I haven’t turned the big one on . My question is , will it put a strain on motor ?’ Do I need to turn the big one on ?
@@prestonbowers1114 If the flow coming out of the input pipe is fine then there is no need to turn the other filter on but if the flow is low then the pump is straining.
@@pondguru thank you very much
Hi, Can anyone please let me know the model number of the bigger booster filter shown on the video or a link. Thanks.
(my other account) Sorry I forgot to put that in the video description and pinned comment - thanks for the question - the link I will add there now is: geni.us/2bj1
I'm sure I answered this but my reply is not showing - it is: geni.us/2bj1
I forgot to link that in the video description, sorry about that.
Thank you very much.
Is there a pimp my filter version for Sumps?
Checkout this one from Pondguru: th-cam.com/video/Wqt9zA6mqao/w-d-xo.html
Not in name but I did a sump video a couple of months ago - it will be 2-3 videos back on my channel.
If your doing fish in cycle on purpose or by accident then you need to use conditioner that detox ammonia ect
If you use the conditioner with binding agents which restricts the food for bacteria then the first part of the cycle will typically take 7-8 weeks to achieve 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite. That is no good as it should only take 2-3 weeks when using a conditioner which doesn't bind / restrict / detoxify ammonia and nitrite.
A simple change can make a hell of a difference to the amount of beneficial bacteria supported in a filter.
@@pondguru problem with that is that ammonia and nitrite are deadly to fish if you use normal one you will have fish dying Iv told to people it slows the cycle down using ones that bind it but they say it’s still available for the bacteria just in a safer form
Hey love your videos. Quick question. I recently purchase a All Pond Solution EF2+ and have added my own dimpled mechanical foams. I purchased a set of three online which included Fine, medium and coarse. Would you say its not worth using the fine and double up on the medium as i have fine filter floss in the next stage. Just to improve over-all performance with less clogging capabilities. Cheers 👍🏼
Is seachams prime a safe water conditioner to use when setting up a new canister filter ?
That’s what I’m wondering if he is referring to as well.
“Removes chlorine, chloramine
Detoxifies ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate”
The last three sounds bad.
What’s your thoughts on connecting two of these boosters together ?? Standard pads in one and filter floss in the second ( floss and carbon maybe ) I’m looking at doing this but I’d have to have it flowing into the top connection rather than the bottom. Do you think direction of flow matters ?? As long as pads are in correct order ? Appreciate your thoughts
The direction of flow doesn't matter as long as the pads are in the correct order but whenever you add more bends, pipes and connections to a system the flow will be reduced.
As the booster filters have a limited diameter you will still get the same contact surface area on a fine pad or floss whether you have it in the first or second booster and unless the tank is really overstocked you probably won't need a second booster on the system.
I also have the aquael 1400 with every tray using biohome. I just wanted to boost my mechanical filtration
@@robhigham7519 It won't do any harm to try with 2 x boosters so see how it goes - feel free to report back as I'd be interested to hear the findings.
Brilliant thank you. Much appreciated
I think I was possibly concerned about slowing the flow down significantly but if I’m mindful on the pipe work linking them should be ok. 200 litre freshwater moderately stocked tank ( soon to be heavily stocked ) with aquael 1400 canister.
Great vid, really helpful information that applies to both fishtank and pond filtration 👍👍 need an update on your pond and it's filtration 😜
Are the Sunsuns OK filters? I mean you can buy two of the damned things for the price of one Oase or Fluval. I never heard of a booster filter but that's brilliant. Thanks for the heads up..
Are you aware of fritzzyme 7? It speeds up the cycling process
I've heard a few people say they have used that to good success but anything will do to seed a filter - when it is unhindered bacteria will populate any filter media (except plastic) very quickly.
What's the best bio home media for ef2000 mini or ultimate.Also how long does the Bacteria balls you get with bio home last for not used.
They have a shelf life of 12-18 months
Does Chemi Pure fall into the same category as the "Pur^&%#" that was hinted in the video?
i would really like to see a how to setup of a RO water system too cos that's the actual problem start if that's done correctly the rest is just gonna fall in to place. or some info on home tap water filtration or something like like that. been following your channel for quit sometime and a huge thank you for all the info you have provided. have worked awesomely till today.
Sadly i haven't been able to get my hands on your biohome media in Thailand that's where im in now. so i tried your alternative medias and works just great. RO systems are really expensive too. hope to hear from you on this topic too
thank you sir
RO units are something I haven't had much to do with and discus keepers would probably be the best to ask about those. As long as you remineralise the water going back to the tank (to ensure that the water is not 'dead') a RO unit is a good way to remove toxins from tap water.
@@pondguru thank you sir. 😊 any hope of getting biohome media in Thailand ??
I don't think we currently have distributor in Thailand but the nearest would be Singapore, Malaysia or Vietnam - all are linked by their country flags at the top of any page on the FilterPro site www.filterpro.co.uk
Unfortunately due to all the tyranny going on here with the Brexit mess and Covaids Plandemic I am unable to send anything outside the UK - it now just gets 'lost', held in depots then returned a month later or it arrives weeks later with massive import charges. It is a ridiculous engineered situation to prevent any trade between UK companies and the rest of the world.
Monteresti questi prefiltri in un tuo acquario ? Una tua opinione sui raccordi e le clips di chiusura ?
I raccordi sono esattamente gli stessi di un normale filtro a canestro, né migliore né peggiore.
Hai bisogno di un booster solo se vuoi inserire più materiali filtranti nel tuo filtro esistente e non è il genere di cose di cui avrai bisogno se il filtro principale è abbastanza grande per l'acquario e lo stock di pesci.
@@pondguru grazie
i have used this filter for years and have never known if i had it set up the right way i found another youtubers video last year and followed it but now turns out i have had it upside down this whole time! i have been doubting myself for a long time thinking it was something i was doing wrong because i followed a big youtuber so they couldn't be wrong right? well turns out they can be wrong thank you so much for showing the correct way i have corrected it and my set up has never run smoother and i was also using one of these trojan horse conditioners also recommended by a big youttuber to fix the problems my incorrectly set up filter was causing i was just stuck in a horrible cycle never knowing what i was doing wrong so thank you
(my other account) I'm glad you found the video useful and while there are always numerous ways to achieve a similar result there are definitely ways which work better or quicker than others and also other ways which ensure that the cycle never completes. Let me know how it goes after the changes.
What about API Tap Water Conditioner?
That is one I've not heard any negative reports about and it doesn't mention detoxifying / binding / removing ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
Thank you very much.
Hi Richard,
Thanks for this video I found it to be very informative. I to seem to be guilty of using Purigen although I never recharge it I just replace it. Think it sounds like beat thing to do is not use it at all. Do I need to replace with something else? Use prime aswell but I will swap that for API stress coat or Tetra safe. I have a SICCE Whale 500 which like so many others use your setup method and its a fabulous simple filter, maybe if you get a chance pimp one out 😎👍
If someone sends one of the Whale filters I'll feature it, no worries.
I would appreciate any advice rather from Richard, or anyone else for that matter.
I'm getting back into the hobby after a three years hiatus due to ill health. Not that i'm any better now, i'm never going to get better, but i'm going to be mechanising the things I cannot do without assistance. I would appreciate any opinions on my planned multi stage filtration set up.
Firstly this is going to be a 198l Amazonian Biotope. Moderately heavily stocked, and eventually plenty of plants.
Stage 1: Under gravel filter used as the intake for the main filtration stages. Modified to to create better flow if needed, and using Bio-Gravel media as the substrate.
Stage 2: An inline heater. I know this isn't actually filtration but, i've included it as it is a part of the filtration water course.
Stage 3: An APS EF-2 Booster used as the mechanical pre-filtration stage. This will have ceramic rings filling the bottom dead space, followed by coarse, medium, and fine foams.
Stage 4: An APS EF-2000 Canister filter. I plan to fill the dead space with more ceramic rings, then fill all four trays to the rafters with Bio-Home Ultimate to create a massive biological filter. I reckon due to not having to sacrifice a tray to foams that I can get 6.8 to 7Kg of Bio-Home Ultimate in their depending on how I arrange the media.
Stage 5: Another APS EF-2 booster as a anoxic biofiltering post-filter stage. Again the bottom dead space filled with ceramic rings, then a bag packed with Bio-Gravel to create a dedicated home for anaerobic bacteria, with space to add carbon, or resin if needed.
Stage 6: Radiological filtration in the form of an APS 36W UV.
Please let me know what you think.
It is probably a waste to use the biogravel as a substrate in an under gravel system as the fish will much prefer being on sand in an Amazonian set up (loaches, cory etc. do way better on sand). I'd not bother with the under gravel.
The filter will hold way more media than you need for a full cycle but you can't have too much filter media. The system sounds very comprehensive.
Ring me any time on 07772848730 as I often miss comments and it takes and age to get to emails when they go mad.
Hi sir,
Nice informative video. In booster filter as output can I use half bio gravel and half bio media?
Great videos, especially about booster/ prefilters. But how do I maintain good throughput through the filtering system? Putting another punp in series doesn't sound that great, as one may push out more than the other can cope with
Those boosters don't have a pump, they are just inline, so whatever flow your canister filter pumps in will get pumped out. Only problem is if the booster gets clogged and its flow slows down, that will of course slow down the whole flow. But in that case, you should clean your canister/booster anyway. Same clogging can happen without using a booster.
@@kwajrod I also realized that, but with some reading in engineering-for-dummies, you can put two filters (motors) in series and add the head power. The main purpose of my booster/prefilter is that I don't have to deconstruct the bio filter to clean the mechanical filter (that invariably is in the bottom of the canister). Added benefit is that you can use the mechanical filter in draining the tank as well.
So, does it make sense to have two filters in series, one fully mechanical, the other fully bio, or did I watch to many TH-cam videos about external filters?
@@andreasheiner3426 If you have the space and money, I think having 2 filters in series could work well, the first mechanical, the second biological. I would suggest the same brand/model/flow for both filters.
@@kwajrod Thanks for the advice; I hadn't realized yet that it's best to have two of the same. I'm in the planning phase, but if I'm using the two-filters setup I'll show you the results. Thanks again
I had this booster filter (prefilter) from sunsun (hw-603 I think) and generally I was quite happe with it BUT unfortunatelly this clips that are holding this lid are quite delicate, and one was domaged during clenup, and after some time of that when I was doing maintanace and switched off main filter remainig three were just broken and this lid was rised by water pressure. Luckly for me I was near by and I was able to close valves to avoid further flood. I do not want to think what would happen if I had some power failure at night or when not nearby... Anyway, until this clips are not redesigned, from my side I do not recommend to use this. There is also one thing that you need to remeber, that this prefilter limits water flow rate quite significantly.
These pre filters are brill.just don’t be heavy handed with the clips,I’ve (4) and mine over 2 years with no problems.just be careful with them that’s all.my flow seems fine.can be a pain to prime if both filters are cleaned though.
That's a real bummer and I agree that the clips on 90% of filters aren't strong enough.
@@pondguru Yeah, I was trying to be gentle, with those clips, but still it was damaged. Especially this part what are attached to carnister it self, they are very tiny and fragile. I was thinking to buy now SERA PREFIX FILTER as lid has different closing system, not clips but it is screwed. But finally I decided to buy internal EHEIM Prefiltr (4004320). I hope that it will be sufficent, as surface of sponges are much smaller that in SunSun prefilter but there is no risk that it will be leaking. PS. I had this SunSun prefilter in transparent version (LW-603)
. I am not sure if clips are exactly the same in verions shown on move (all white).
@@karolwatroba4557 Yes there are certainly other options out there and none (including this booster) are perfect.
Can anyone please name the unspoken product as I’m uncertain- thank you x
Seachem Prime and Purigen
Also, Seachem Safe, which is the powder version of liquid Prime.
Love your videos they are amazingly helpful.. would you be able to do something to help us marine boys that use canister's please
I am looking at this filter for my 90 gallon fresh water tank. It looks well designed, simple & affordable. What's your thoughts on the one with the UV light built in? Wouldn't that kill good bacterial in the filter itself? THx
Has anyone here fitted one of those EF2 filter extenders to a Fluval 407 at all?
(my other account) I have heard of people using that combo but the ribbed pipe on the Fluval filters is a but awkward to fit to other sizes of pipe or fittings.
@@ThousandYardStare thanks. Might be time to break out the sticky tape and see what I can put together.
@@Bedheaduk If it fits it will work.
@@ThousandYardStare I’ll let you know how I get on.
@@Bedheaduk Good stuff - thanks in advance.
As we know its Purigen, does this issue also afflict Prime?
That is the main culprit for delaying the bacteria growth - if you check forums you'll see people struggling after 7-8 weeks to get their ammonia and nitrite to zero and they're being recommended to use a host of other treatments to treat the side effects from the first one - that first part of the cycle should only take 2-3 weeks.
@@pondguru I did notice it taking longer getting full cycle with Prime then normal, the fewer water changes i did the better it went. We might be going back to Tetras Aquasafe or JBL Biotopol.
All our tanks are stable at 5ppm of nitrate at the moment, we water change once a month now. Nitrates never go past 5ppm during this time.
We use 1l of Substrat Pro per 100l of water, static plenum with gravel on top, finished with either sand or aquasoil on top.
@@Kvickification Good stuff, man.
What do you think of Zeolite? I was still not quite good in overstocked situations obviously because it strips of mania but as you say it will slow down the cycle I would imagine
I've heard them filters just leak .
Any filter has the potential to leak and the more popular a filter is the more reports there will be of leaking. Always check the main seal around the head of the filter before putting it back together to make sure the seal doesn't get nipped and deformed. When a seal gets mis-shapen or damaged it will generally result in leaking.
I have this filter but was looking to find a much better set up compared to how I have done mine. Thank you for you're info. I like what you have used and I'm going to go with what you suggest! I am cycling 300ltrs! And I have over 36 fish I think in the tank.
Have you seen those activated carbon cubes that people buy? What's you're view on that? Do you think they are alright?
I use all seachem products and I use Esha for sickness!
You're always better using normal carbon or activated charcoal pellets of you need to draw in staining from bogwood or residual treatments as the impregnated foams don't have anywhere near the amount of carbon on hem compared to a handful of pellets.
@@pondguru I thought you'd say that. I use the activated carbon in my canister. Those carbon cubes are advertised all over facebook as this cool thing that would clear up the aquarium within a day or so... People are attached to the hype on that thinking it's brill. I got one to test it out on a new set up. Just a tank, water and the water treatment. Tank was heading into the cloudy new tank stage on the new set up, so I added that cube, and yes actually within 2 days the water was crystal clear. But they are huge and also have sharp edges that can damage the fish bodies And they do take up a large space. I gave the cube to a friend. I don't need it.
I've got through 6 of those booster filters in 2 years they are so flimsy