G'day everyone, I have uploaded a no commentary version of this build (th-cam.com/video/_5Z0STUOibE/w-d-xo.html). See you next Saturday for the next build video.
For round materials in clamps, try using copper layers between the clamp jaws and the round part. They will deform and keep the jaws from marring the part when you tighten the jaws to maximum.
It came out nice. A tip for you. When using the mill vice always put the work piece up against the fixed jaw. Then, have the V block or whatever else you’re using, up against the floating jaw which lifts when tightened. This will give you more precision and the part will stay still.
Lovely job! One thing I would suggest is that you check and maybe slightly relieve the dovetails. It looks like the dovetails are preventing the outer parts of the boring head from being pulled together which will impact rigidity.
Watching your channel has really clued me into the capabilities of these machines. I had always heard that they were junk that couldn't do any real work, just stuff like aluminum, brass, copper, plastic, etc..., no steel. That was clearly wrong! Keep it up my friend. This has become one of my favorite channels!
I have been watching cutting edge engineering Australia for a while now. Watching you with your table top equipment was interesting change from the massive equipment he has.
That was pure ingenuity! It was interesting to watch, thanks for sharing! Edit: I would have never thought about using a router bit on steel but it is true, it is still a carbide tip so that really floored me!
Hey mate: love the channel. Watch every episodes. Love the way you leave the errors in (makes you human, and also helps the rest of us learn). I made a mental bookmark to cut the round stock long enough for the vee block, when milling the end, and part off the waste at the other end. Without including that error/issue, I would not perhaps have considered that. Thank you.
Those tiny D-bit engraving cutters typically run around 20,000-25,000 RPM. The mill you've got probably runs about a tenth of the right speed - not just "a little bit slow". :) That said, it still looks pretty decent given the limitations on speed.
instead of engraving with the spindle running a tool, you can instead make a little carbide scribe and then go back-and-forth a few times to make a nice shard marking. great work, loving this channel!
5:09 The easyest way to make your coolant not to run everywhere is to use that clay that you find in toy stores. Just block around your vise where it should not go.
Good looking project again 👍🏼💪🏼😋! Regarding the v-block setup issues: I've made a prismatic softjaw for the vise. I just exchange the jaw on the stationary side. I just made one V in the middle, but there is the possibility to go "fancy" (like on jaws one can buy) with more slots in both vertical and horizontal orientation...
Regarding the taps not bottoming. You could just machine a few millimeters on the end of the screws to make them touch the wall you need instead. Good work as usual
interesting choice on reducing the shank of the tap... other option would be to partially clearance the hole... since you don't use all the threads with a round boaring head. =D Either way, still looks like a nice tool to add to the shop.
as a side note, you can use a saw blade to index the divides on the dial... if you can't use that fancy dividing head. Saw blades come in many different teeth counts, and they are all evenly spaced which is wonderful for indexin.
FYI you can use plumbers putty on the vise to keep the coolant from running out onto the floor. If you have shop air can use a Noga mister instead of flood coolant it will still work well.
That is real nice bro. Maybe you could rig up a way to mount a dremel type tool to the side of your milling machine head that would let you engrave stuff more easily.
Or make a mount to hold one of those pencil air grinders. I made a mount to hold one of those bad boys in my cnc mini mill and now I've got 56,000 RPM capability 😁
It didn't look like it from what I could see but there should be a shallow relief at the bottom of the female dovetail. This takes a bunch of load off the cutter.
Small adjustable boring head are quite useful, especially for hobbyists which usually have small machines. Wondering if there are off the shelf small adjustable boring head with a straight shank less or equal to 8mm.
I think you would really love having a horizontal bandsaw. I found a used one for $50, so $60 with a new blade. One of the best support tools I've bought.
Have you thought about putting a misting lubricator on a magnet? Reduces your coolant usage and lets you move it between your machines. Might be a nice project, just sayin'.
Personally I am not a fan of mist coolant unless I have an enclosure. The most tends to coat surrounding surfaces and I have my concerns about breathing atomised coolant. Cheers
I have a possible solution for your engraving problem... If you build a mount that can be bolted to the side of the mill head, you can attach a Dremel to the mill that can hold the fine engraving bits and that will let you spin the bits at the speeds they need while still using the X & Y movements of the mill table as well as the rotary indexing chuck...
Excellent project! I like it except for your use of sillymeters instead of good old decimal or fractional inches. There are two types of countries in the world: those that use metric, and those that have landed men on the moon. But don't let that stop you. Looks like a terrific boring head and I will be making something very similar in the near future. I am surprised you didn't mill a flat around the dial screw hole, and make some vernier marks on it so you could easily adjust to to the nearest 1mm or I should say the nearest .039" But of course you can always eyeball it. Anyway, excellent job. Beautiful work.
Cheers mate. The dial is always for eye balling. Any time I need to cut bores for bearing or anything similar I always set the distances using dial indicators.
A very nice project. The only issue I have is the pitch and material of the leadscrew. I would find a 6x0.5 mm tap and thus make it a lot more accurate in as much as you can get finer cuts to a size easier. The taps are out there. Chinese unfortunately but there you go. As for the material, low carbon or mild steel is not the way to go on this. I would have got a 13" length of 6 mm silver steel ( drill rod) and single point screw cut that and made the 18mm head in mild steel and silver soldered the screw into the head.
That would be up for you to choose of you make it, I have used 1mm pitch and I can do press fits for bearings. And I'm sure you could get away with a low carbon steel if you really wanted to. I thankfully had some medium carbon
Awesome stuff, Mr. Artisan, as always. You never ceise to impress me with what you manage to do on these small machines. Just a quick question - are you using ER32 collets for your mill? I'm assuming this, since ER25 only goes up to 16mm. If so, have you found the setup to be rigid enough for that size of endmill? I've been contemplating getting a larger collet holder for this exact purpose(Pretty sure we have the same size mill)
I have a ER 32 collet chuck for holding irregular sized tools. I have a kit that came with 20 collets 1-20mm. For the rest of my work I use er20 collet tools, held in a MT3 collet. I don't think you have to be too worried about that rigidity of the collets, it's not really a limiting factor on this mill, and anything larger than ER32 would be overkill for this mill. Though if it is something that concerns you, I'd just opt for an endmill holder, much cheaper and more rigid.
Re the engraving, could you not mount your dividing head to your lathe bed ("somehow" :-) ) and use the mini grinder on the cross slide with an engaving bit in it?
@@artisanmakes Your toolholder for the engravingmill is asymmetric. There's one screw on one side, creating vibrations. And high rpm makes it even worse. Make it symmetric would be my suggestion. Keep up the good work, fun to watch!
I've never had toubke with Weldon shank tools vibrating until I go over a few thousand rpm. I think the tool was a big off was because I used a drill to make the hole, rather than a reamer. The hole was a little over sized, but I don't have a 1/8" reamer on hand. Cheers
That was not 1045, it was a 420 martensitic stainless, it is actually a very good steel alloy. Hence why the difficulties you encountered working with it.
It's a very interesting project and well executed for the tooling you have. Just a curiosity: when you clamp the dovetail the flat faces on the left and right sides of the dovetail, left from it's machining, on the upper and lower halfs of the boring head are pushed one to the other in order to increase rigidity or the clamping is just performed by the angled surfaces of the dovetail?
@@artisanmakes I use a lot of steel bar, mainly 1045 and 4140, and I’m telling ya, that colour is 1018/1020 bright bar. Unless you got some over spray on it at some point... you wouldn’t notice with your gear, but once you get bigger gear and start making chips, you’ll be able to tell the difference in the chips, and the spindle load on the machine. Also, 1020 still has a bit of carbon in it, 0.2% I think, so it will “harden” but not sufficiently for any useful purposes.
@@petercameron8379 not for me they don’t, maybe where you are, but it’s standard through all of my suppliers. I know when the truck pulls up what bars are on the back just by tue colour. And I buy my carbon steel from 3 different suppliers and they all use the same colour coding. And I buy my stainless from 4 different suppliers and they all use the same colour coding.
Just the other day I was told that I had a boring head, I didn't know what that meant, now after watching this video I do know, but I still don't understand why I was told that as I have never had one of those gizmos ever.
G'day everyone, I have uploaded a no commentary version of this build (th-cam.com/video/_5Z0STUOibE/w-d-xo.html). See you next Saturday for the next build video.
For round materials in clamps, try using copper layers between the clamp jaws and the round part. They will deform and keep the jaws from marring the part when you tighten the jaws to maximum.
Он их использует, но видимо не всегда 😂
its always amazing to see the quality of your builds increase as the years go by. The knowledge youve gained shows clearly and is quite impressive!
Thank you very much! Always a continuous learning experience for me
Your videos certainly have a nod to This Old Tony's. It's really nice to watch, keep up the good work
It came out nice. A tip for you. When using the mill vice always put the work piece up against the fixed jaw. Then, have the V block or whatever else you’re using, up against the floating jaw which lifts when tightened. This will give you more precision and the part will stay still.
Man really nice work... You can see the progress in your work from the last boring head to this one...
Lovely job! One thing I would suggest is that you check and maybe slightly relieve the dovetails. It looks like the dovetails are preventing the outer parts of the boring head from being pulled together which will impact rigidity.
Watching your channel has really clued me into the capabilities of these machines. I had always heard that they were junk that couldn't do any real work, just stuff like aluminum, brass, copper, plastic, etc..., no steel. That was clearly wrong!
Keep it up my friend. This has become one of my favorite channels!
I have been watching cutting edge engineering Australia for a while now. Watching you with your table top equipment was interesting change from the massive equipment he has.
That was pure ingenuity! It was interesting to watch, thanks for sharing! Edit: I would have never thought about using a router bit on steel but it is true, it is still a carbide tip so that really floored me!
Really classy looking piece of kit mate!! Keep up the good work.
Hey mate: love the channel. Watch every episodes. Love the way you leave the errors in (makes you human, and also helps the rest of us learn). I made a mental bookmark to cut the round stock long enough for the vee block, when milling the end, and part off the waste at the other end. Without including that error/issue, I would not perhaps have considered that. Thank you.
that snap when you put the lead screw in - perfect
So I'm thinking "what no hacksaw?" haha think again🙂
Nice project, thanks for sharing
Cheers
I watch your videos after a long day.. As a machinist. To fall asleep
Great work and I love the detail you put into the video. I watched the no comment version but I like this style much better.
Thank's for the video,great job👍
I am totally new to machining,and have been watching all of your videos,wich are wery educational.
Those tiny D-bit engraving cutters typically run around 20,000-25,000 RPM. The mill you've got probably runs about a tenth of the right speed - not just "a little bit slow". :) That said, it still looks pretty decent given the limitations on speed.
instead of engraving with the spindle running a tool, you can instead make a little carbide scribe and then go back-and-forth a few times to make a nice shard marking.
great work, loving this channel!
In hindsight that would have been the better option
5:09 The easyest way to make your coolant not to run everywhere is to use that clay that you find in toy stores. Just block around your vise where it should not go.
Use 2 bits of ally in the vice to hold a diameter without a v block. Doesn't damage workpiece and grips better as well.
Using a fixed setscrew for adjustment is a very clever idea, instead of buying a special hex cutting tool 👍🏻
Excelente trabajo. Felicidades!👍
Mate this is a great outcome, better than a bought one.
Great work, and fantastic job! The nice tool will come in handy.
That was an excellent job, hats off. TOP.
I really like your videos and can't wait for you to post. This was a great project and came out very nice. Well done and thanks for sharing!
Good looking project again 👍🏼💪🏼😋! Regarding the v-block setup issues: I've made a prismatic softjaw for the vise. I just exchange the jaw on the stationary side.
I just made one V in the middle, but there is the possibility to go "fancy" (like on jaws one can buy) with more slots in both vertical and horizontal orientation...
Thanks for the comment, its definitely something that is on my to do list
Regarding the taps not bottoming. You could just machine a few millimeters on the end of the screws to make them touch the wall you need instead. Good work as usual
Yeah I didn't think of that but for sure that would work
Really nice work mate!! maybe try a hand-deburring-tool...I tried it once and I can`t live without it now
100% agreed. I use the blue-handled Noga clone from Asia, and they are awesome. I've even resharpened a few using a fine diamond stone.
This guy has to be buff 💪💪💪 using that hacksaw all the time.
interesting choice on reducing the shank of the tap... other option would be to partially clearance the hole... since you don't use all the threads with a round boaring head. =D Either way, still looks like a nice tool to add to the shop.
as a side note, you can use a saw blade to index the divides on the dial... if you can't use that fancy dividing head. Saw blades come in many different teeth counts, and they are all evenly spaced which is wonderful for indexin.
Well done looks great.
FYI you can use plumbers putty on the vise to keep the coolant from running out onto the floor. If you have shop air can use a Noga mister instead of flood coolant it will still work well.
That is real nice bro. Maybe you could rig up a way to mount a dremel type tool to the side of your milling machine head that would let you engrave stuff more easily.
Or make a mount to hold one of those pencil air grinders. I made a mount to hold one of those bad boys in my cnc mini mill and now I've got 56,000 RPM capability 😁
I am impressed it came out fantastic
Thankyou
Incredibly well made
Great work.
very cool spinny hole enlarger thingy ....we like
Olá amigo que trabalho fantástico, perfeito!!!!
Abraço daqui do Brasil a todos aí!!!
That's a nice project.
Great video. Thanks !
It didn't look like it from what I could see but there should be a shallow relief at the bottom of the female dovetail. This takes a bunch of load off the cutter.
very nice work, thanks for sharing.
Excellent video. 👍
Might I suggest that you make a pair of vice jaws with a vertical v slot in the centre of each, for holding round stock?
It definitely will be on my list of things to do. Cheers
Gday, the new boring head looks great and will last years, brilliant job mate, cheers
Small adjustable boring head are quite useful, especially for hobbyists which usually have small machines. Wondering if there are off the shelf small adjustable boring head with a straight shank less or equal to 8mm.
I wonder if a dovetail wood router bit could do the dovetail portion of this build? Nice work.
I liked the hacking existing tools to allow you to make a new tool. you clever boy.
Cheers and to be fair it was an old tool that doesn't fit the mill collets I use, Cheers
Great video, great build.
Thanks for sharing.
mate, classified ads. portable bandsaw. 100$. no more toxic gritty dust. also fun project making vertical and horizontal stands for it.
I think you would really love having a horizontal bandsaw. I found a used one for $50, so $60 with a new blade. One of the best support tools I've bought.
Excellent work.
great video as always!
Have you thought about putting a misting lubricator on a magnet? Reduces your coolant usage and lets you move it between your machines. Might be a nice project, just sayin'.
Personally I am not a fan of mist coolant unless I have an enclosure. The most tends to coat surrounding surfaces and I have my concerns about breathing atomised coolant. Cheers
Thanks for sharing👏
I have a possible solution for your engraving problem...
If you build a mount that can be bolted to the side of the mill head, you can attach a Dremel to the mill that can hold the fine engraving bits and that will let you spin the bits at the speeds they need while still using the X & Y movements of the mill table as well as the rotary indexing chuck...
Excellent project! I like it except for your use of sillymeters instead of good old decimal or fractional inches. There are two types of countries in the world: those that use metric, and those that have landed men on the moon. But don't let that stop you. Looks like a terrific boring head and I will be making something very similar in the near future.
I am surprised you didn't mill a flat around the dial screw hole, and make some vernier marks on it so you could easily adjust to to the nearest 1mm or I should say the nearest .039" But of course you can always eyeball it.
Anyway, excellent job. Beautiful work.
Cheers mate. The dial is always for eye balling. Any time I need to cut bores for bearing or anything similar I always set the distances using dial indicators.
Guess I know what I'll be making at work tomorrow since I've got bugger all else to do
Good accommodation👍👍👍
The larger mass of the new tool holder certainly will improve accuracy.
You Can get nice shallow lines with a ball end mill.
the D bits from your router would have worked if you use them like a shaper bit.
lock in place and just scrape in the dial
You know that you can get longer hacksaws right? Would make the sawing easier.
Well Done.
A very nice project. The only issue I have is the pitch and material of the leadscrew. I would find a 6x0.5 mm tap and thus make it a lot more accurate in as much as you can get finer cuts to a size easier. The taps are out there. Chinese unfortunately but there you go. As for the material, low carbon or mild steel is not the way to go on this. I would have got a 13" length of 6 mm silver steel ( drill rod) and single point screw cut that and made the 18mm head in mild steel and silver soldered the screw into the head.
That would be up for you to choose of you make it, I have used 1mm pitch and I can do press fits for bearings. And I'm sure you could get away with a low carbon steel if you really wanted to. I thankfully had some medium carbon
Amazing Work 5*
great work.. 👍👍
Can you put the cutter horizontaly to use as fly cutter...?
Awesome stuff, Mr. Artisan, as always. You never ceise to impress me with what you manage to do on these small machines.
Just a quick question - are you using ER32 collets for your mill? I'm assuming this, since ER25 only goes up to 16mm. If so, have you found the setup to be rigid enough for that size of endmill? I've been contemplating getting a larger collet holder for this exact purpose(Pretty sure we have the same size mill)
I have a ER 32 collet chuck for holding irregular sized tools. I have a kit that came with 20 collets 1-20mm. For the rest of my work I use er20 collet tools, held in a MT3 collet.
I don't think you have to be too worried about that rigidity of the collets, it's not really a limiting factor on this mill, and anything larger than ER32 would be overkill for this mill. Though if it is something that concerns you, I'd just opt for an endmill holder, much cheaper and more rigid.
You can always drag engrave or use electroetching to achieve the same or even better results.
Yeah that would definitely work too
Using a pair of vee blocks to clamp the round in the vice you won’t have a problem holding the round in the vice.
I would quibble just a bit as head is never boring.
Does the cutter automatically advance with every revolution by some thousands? How does this work? sorry i‘m new
Good job.
damn this is actually a pretty good video
like a great machinist, you make due. great videos, you got a sub from me
Nice job
Thanks!
Impressive!
Re the engraving, could you not mount your dividing head to your lathe bed ("somehow" :-) ) and use the mini grinder on the cross slide with an engaving bit in it?
I could, buy I'd need a fixture plate of some sort to get around the prismatic ways. I looked I to it a while back but it never got anywhere
BRAVO where did you learn to do these jobs? .
Amazing!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Can I ask where the vibration in your lathe is coming from?
I tore the v belt up a bit machining 4140 and that wear is showing up as vibrations
@@artisanmakes Your toolholder for the engravingmill is asymmetric. There's one screw on one side, creating vibrations. And high rpm makes it even worse. Make it symmetric would be my suggestion. Keep up the good work, fun to watch!
I've never had toubke with Weldon shank tools vibrating until I go over a few thousand rpm. I think the tool was a big off was because I used a drill to make the hole, rather than a reamer. The hole was a little over sized, but I don't have a 1/8" reamer on hand. Cheers
2 flutes at high rpm is basically the same as 4 at low, right?
Impressive how you have improved!
@artisanmakes where can i find the drawing for thos project?
I found the title not to be true, the video was fun to watch, not boring at all.
@8:45 -- yeah dude...that's a taper tap. Not a bottoming tap...
This is what passes for a bottoming tap in this set. It is a set of 3 and this the bottoming tap for m6. Kinda odd eh
That was not 1045, it was a 420 martensitic stainless, it is actually a very good steel alloy.
Hence why the difficulties you encountered working with it.
Categorically it is not made of a stainless alloy. My metal supplier does not even stock 4xx stainless.
It's a very interesting project and well executed for the tooling you have. Just a curiosity: when you clamp the dovetail the flat faces on the left and right sides of the dovetail, left from it's machining, on the upper and lower halfs of the boring head are pushed one to the other in order to increase rigidity or the clamping is just performed by the angled surfaces of the dovetail?
If the fit is too loose you can put a piece of ptfe thread tape on the threads to thighten them up a bit. A little goes a long way
That wasn't boring, but it was long. A cool head, but wouldn't this be a 1.1?
Do all your machines sound like the bearings could come flying out at any moment? Nice work.
Gotta push these small machines to their limit to make them work
The yellow paint indicates 1018/1020 not 1045.
I can guarantee you it's not 1020 because I was able to quench harden a sample of it
@@artisanmakes www.interlloy.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Colour-Chart.pdf
@@artisanmakes I use a lot of steel bar, mainly 1045 and 4140, and I’m telling ya, that colour is 1018/1020 bright bar. Unless you got some over spray on it at some point... you wouldn’t notice with your gear, but once you get bigger gear and start making chips, you’ll be able to tell the difference in the chips, and the spindle load on the machine.
Also, 1020 still has a bit of carbon in it, 0.2% I think, so it will “harden” but not sufficiently for any useful purposes.
@@madaxe79 A lot of steel suppliers use different colour coding ie the colour coding is noy standardised
@@petercameron8379 not for me they don’t, maybe where you are, but it’s standard through all of my suppliers. I know when the truck pulls up what bars are on the back just by tue colour. And I buy my carbon steel from 3 different suppliers and they all use the same colour coding. And I buy my stainless from 4 different suppliers and they all use the same colour coding.
My horizontal band saw a cheap Tiwaneesium is best by i ever made
No hacksaw on the 1045 huh
Hello.I’m waiting every week for your new video but sad you don’t make any more like before exactly in the week.😫😫😫
Been a bit busy recently, got some new stuff in the works. Should be out soon
17:45 Struggle Bus.
Just the other day I was told that I had a boring head, I didn't know what that meant, now after watching this video I do know, but I still don't understand why I was told that as I have never had one of those gizmos ever.