I have a '21 Forester and lifted it with the Ironman 2" strut kit. My base model has smaller calipers so I could go down to a 16" wheel giving me a lot more sidewall and with 235/70 r16 Toyo Open Country A/T 3's I have a little over 12" min. clearance. The kit came with all spacers and was an easy install. I have about 4k miles on it and no problems so far, and it's still great on the street, too.
Fantastic video. Ive put 135k miles on my lifted 2005 X since buying it in 2014. Here’s my take: point of diminishing returns are a thing. I have Tema4x4 30mm front spacers and 40mm rears spacers. I bought a set of trailing arm lowering blocks off Amazon, and this entire combo allowed me to easily fit some 215/70-16 Falken Wildpeaks. Slight rubbing was taken care of by folding the pinch weld up front. THATS IT. under $200 in lift parts and it became exponentially more capable. Still loving it after all these years.
Certainly! That was the cost of my 1" lift kit as well. The bigger cost came after upgrading to a 2.5" lift, where I was battling positive camber and such.
This is super comprehensive and a great video with a ton of information that a lot of folks don't consider. Another thing a lot of people don't consider when lifting a Subaru (or at least one with a CVT) is CVT wobble. This happens with the increased driveline angle and companies like ADF sell an anti-wobble insert which can introduce additional NVH. On my 2014 Outback, I did the smaller ADF lift and the CVT wobble was barely noticeable. I didn't notice it most of the time unless I was really looking for it. On my 2017 Outback, I did the 2" ADF lift (with the added height in the back to combat the dreaded saggy butt), and the CVT wobble around the 20mph mark was very noticeable. I installed the anti-wobble insert, and NVH at highway speed was awful so I pulled it back out and just tolerated the brief shudder at low speed. Sometimes it's readily apparent. Sometimes it's easy to ignore. But it is there and something to consider.
I absolutely hated my 1" Adf lift on my 2005 outback, even running adjustable control arms still had the rear tires run the shocks. So glad i moved to the 2" lift which remedied it, but seemed to drop the rear diff to stock heighr🙃 Love the content!
I plan on doing adf 2.5” lower and 3” upper plan on clearing 31’s, prolly forceum m/t’s, cant beat a full set for $400. I am doing this on my 99 fozy and it will be in the next few weeks, i will try to make videos of the build as i go.
As far as VT, NH, and Maine go, the only places seem to be in the white mountains and north from there. There is a spot in Thompson CT you can trail on as well. I live in a dead zone and haven’t had much time to explore a lot in the area.
Would you recommend upgrading tires before a lift? If so, what would you recommend for off roading that will fit the stock Subaru? Will I need to then change to a different tire if I add the lift later? Thanks in advance.
You pretty much nailed it. If you plan on getting bigger tires anyway, I recommend the lift first. If you just want to get tires in the same or similar size to stock, then get tires first.
When it comes time to replace my struts, can I install new struts that would provide a higher lift and avoid a positive camber? This way I would be replacing my worn struts and increasing my lift.
Thank you Wondering about cooling ( I had friends 20 years ago swapping to bigger radiators in Arizona) I would be interested in knowing about Subaru Radiator cross compatibility
You don't mention a subframe drop. I want to lift my Forester at least 4" which I know will need a subframe drop. But is there absolute doom towards my car when I lift higher than 2"? I am fine with reality, and I will do it right, but I just need to know the correct way to do it.
I didn't mention subframe drops because they aren't as common of a kit for Subarus compared to 2" and under. The older Fozzies can be lifted up to 3" before really needing subfram spacers.
@@TheCreateOutdoors So If I get a 3" lift and my suspension also raises the car about an inch, I should get the subframe drop? Those two add together in total height lifted, right? I am just starting my grocery list of mods since I just picked up an insanely low miles 2005 Forester X. Would love to pick your brain further on a list of all the smaller/vaguely important parts I should pick up.
For a one inch lift kit not much will change in regards to suspension dynamics. That’s why there are more 1” kits available than other sizes. I didn’t have to install any of those other parts until I was up to 2.5”. Well, except for trailing arm spacers and camber bolts.
I don't mod my daily drivers. i dont think its worth it. Factory trims like Trailhawk, Wilderness, PRO4X, and TRD are incredibly capable offroad from the factory. Maybe a front leveling kit, slightly bigger tires, a pair of AUX lights, front lightbar of some sort, and crossbars with seasonal sport carriers are really all i need. No drilling, cutting, or anything for hard offroad use. If you're gonna go that route maybe buy something cheap with minimal insurance coverage and make it into a project. I did that with a 97 Wrangler. Its got holes in the floor pan but its street legal and i dont care if i hit a rock.
While this is certainly the most ideal option, not everyone has that option. Until last spring I did not have a new daily driver, and years before the Wilderness wasn't even a thing yet. Regardless that little 2005 Forester didn't need all those mods in the beginning, but over time, it was reaching its limits. From being in car culture, when you have only one car, most of the time you aren't going to wait to have the money to buy another car, even if it makes more sense to.
I have a '21 Forester and lifted it with the Ironman 2" strut kit. My base model has smaller calipers so I could go down to a 16" wheel giving me a lot more sidewall and with 235/70 r16 Toyo Open Country A/T 3's I have a little over 12" min. clearance. The kit came with all spacers and was an easy install. I have about 4k miles on it and no problems so far, and it's still great on the street, too.
Fantastic video. Ive put 135k miles on my lifted 2005 X since buying it in 2014. Here’s my take: point of diminishing returns are a thing. I have Tema4x4 30mm front spacers and 40mm rears spacers. I bought a set of trailing arm lowering blocks off Amazon, and this entire combo allowed me to easily fit some 215/70-16 Falken Wildpeaks. Slight rubbing was taken care of by folding the pinch weld up front. THATS IT. under $200 in lift parts and it became exponentially more capable. Still loving it after all these years.
Certainly! That was the cost of my 1" lift kit as well. The bigger cost came after upgrading to a 2.5" lift, where I was battling positive camber and such.
Always had a soft spot for these wagons. Dope rig!
These foresters are so capable it’s crazy
Sweet Subaru. I have a couple jeeps and overlanding sounds like a lot of fun. Maybe someday.
This is super comprehensive and a great video with a ton of information that a lot of folks don't consider.
Another thing a lot of people don't consider when lifting a Subaru (or at least one with a CVT) is CVT wobble. This happens with the increased driveline angle and companies like ADF sell an anti-wobble insert which can introduce additional NVH. On my 2014 Outback, I did the smaller ADF lift and the CVT wobble was barely noticeable. I didn't notice it most of the time unless I was really looking for it. On my 2017 Outback, I did the 2" ADF lift (with the added height in the back to combat the dreaded saggy butt), and the CVT wobble around the 20mph mark was very noticeable. I installed the anti-wobble insert, and NVH at highway speed was awful so I pulled it back out and just tolerated the brief shudder at low speed.
Sometimes it's readily apparent. Sometimes it's easy to ignore. But it is there and something to consider.
Yes! The EAT and MT suffered from the same thing as well. I put an insert in my Forester as well.
I absolutely hated my 1" Adf lift on my 2005 outback, even running adjustable control arms still had the rear tires run the shocks. So glad i moved to the 2" lift which remedied it, but seemed to drop the rear diff to stock heighr🙃 Love the content!
Were you running different wheel and tire specs or was it the stock tire size?
@@TheCreateOutdoors different size, I moved to a 225/70r16 same width as the stock now I'm running 235/75r15
Dude, thank you for your work in this.
You’re welcome!
Another banger
Thank you sir!
I plan on doing adf 2.5” lower and 3” upper plan on clearing 31’s, prolly forceum m/t’s, cant beat a full set for $400. I am doing this on my 99 fozy and it will be in the next few weeks, i will try to make videos of the build as i go.
That sounds sick. Good luck dude!
Excellent video and excellent advice. Have you noticed a gas mileage change after lifting under normal/street driving conditions?
Oh yes very. It gets about 20 mpg now with all of it's mods
@TheCreateOutdoors city? freeway? or combined?
@@RideShootDrink I'll say combined because it's too old to measure all of those.
Thank you for this video! Loving the Forester content!!
There is plenty more to come!
Can you please post a list of all the parts that you have on that car to include tires/wheels along with specs of tires/wheels?
Certainly! I will work on that tonight and add it to the description.
@@TheCreateOutdoors Any update?
All set
i noticed the NH plates, where in NH can i go off roading, or new england in general
As far as VT, NH, and Maine go, the only places seem to be in the white mountains and north from there. There is a spot in Thompson CT you can trail on as well. I live in a dead zone and haven’t had much time to explore a lot in the area.
Would you recommend upgrading tires before a lift? If so, what would you recommend for off roading that will fit the stock Subaru? Will I need to then change to a different tire if I add the lift later? Thanks in advance.
You pretty much nailed it. If you plan on getting bigger tires anyway, I recommend the lift first. If you just want to get tires in the same or similar size to stock, then get tires first.
When it comes time to replace my struts, can I install new struts that would provide a higher lift and avoid a positive camber? This way I would be replacing my worn struts and increasing my lift.
I mean you could offroad coilovers instead but those are quite expensive. I haven’t found top hats with camber adjustment in them.
Do you have any recommendations for OEM grade replacement complete struts?
KYB struts are usually the go-to for that. If you want some lift out of it too you can always add some king springs or a lift spacer on top of it.
Thank you
Wondering about cooling
( I had friends 20 years ago swapping to bigger radiators in Arizona)
I would be interested in knowing about Subaru
Radiator cross compatibility
Don't really know about that one, I have never seen that done before.
@@TheCreateOutdoors
Understood, I have only seen it done in pickup trucks .
Hello, I have the same subaru. I also raised it and how can I adjust the camber at the rear?
How high did you lift it.
@TheCreateOutdoors 2"
2 zoll
At 2 inches, rear adjustable control arms and camber bolts will most likely be required in the rear like what I had done.
Hello, Your video is very nice.
You don't mention a subframe drop. I want to lift my Forester at least 4" which I know will need a subframe drop. But is there absolute doom towards my car when I lift higher than 2"? I am fine with reality, and I will do it right, but I just need to know the correct way to do it.
I didn't mention subframe drops because they aren't as common of a kit for Subarus compared to 2" and under. The older Fozzies can be lifted up to 3" before really needing subfram spacers.
@@TheCreateOutdoors So If I get a 3" lift and my suspension also raises the car about an inch, I should get the subframe drop? Those two add together in total height lifted, right? I am just starting my grocery list of mods since I just picked up an insanely low miles 2005 Forester X. Would love to pick your brain further on a list of all the smaller/vaguely important parts I should pick up.
@@Tcstewie Yes, that would be correct. Most 3" lift kits have the option for subframe spacers.
So is your lift kit 2” ADF lift kit? What size tires can fit with it? What size tires are yours and do they cause rubbing? Thanks
2.5" lift. I would suggest watching my other videos in this series, they will answer a lot of your questions!
do this affect a lift i. specific? i mean 1" will require the axels and that? or for higher lift is mandatory for security
For a one inch lift kit not much will change in regards to suspension dynamics. That’s why there are more 1” kits available than other sizes. I didn’t have to install any of those other parts until I was up to 2.5”. Well, except for trailing arm spacers and camber bolts.
I don't mod my daily drivers. i dont think its worth it. Factory trims like Trailhawk, Wilderness, PRO4X, and TRD are incredibly capable offroad from the factory. Maybe a front leveling kit, slightly bigger tires, a pair of AUX lights, front lightbar of some sort, and crossbars with seasonal sport carriers are really all i need. No drilling, cutting, or anything for hard offroad use. If you're gonna go that route maybe buy something cheap with minimal insurance coverage and make it into a project. I did that with a 97 Wrangler. Its got holes in the floor pan but its street legal and i dont care if i hit a rock.
While this is certainly the most ideal option, not everyone has that option. Until last spring I did not have a new daily driver, and years before the Wilderness wasn't even a thing yet. Regardless that little 2005 Forester didn't need all those mods in the beginning, but over time, it was reaching its limits.
From being in car culture, when you have only one car, most of the time you aren't going to wait to have the money to buy another car, even if it makes more sense to.