For those that choose to tile over the existing tile, you can preplan your a/c drain pvc pipe location, and transition from pvc to stainless steel in the false ceiling, then it's a clean 15mm ss pipe with nice ss brackets holding the pipe down to the floor. Alternatively you can even run the drain pipe behind the tile and direct into the floor trap under the tile, so that the drain pipe isn't visible at all. It's a non-pressurized pipe, so maintenance is minimal and no fear of leaks with hydraulic clamped joints. If you choose to stick with pvc, you might want to consider getting a good tile bit and still installing pipe clips to secure the pipe, you can get matching grey abs clips.
Hello Moses! Thank you so much for taking your time to share so many useful tips! We wish we'd known about all these beforehand! Do you have an example image of the transition? Aha trying to visualise!
@@thesuakus There's actually a few options. The key is that it's a non pressure pipe drain pipe, so all the concerns for connecting stainless to pvc for potable water don't apply. Here's a few I've seen: 1. Use a standard brass compression fitting (the one with the rings) , just for the pvc side, there's a PVC insert you put to reinforce and so the PVC pipe doesn't crack. Just Google 'cpvc to copper compression fitting'. 2. They now also have special made couplings that have a threaded stainless portion and a PVC side combined that you can use standard PVC cement. I've never used it myself looks too ex and over engineered for my usage. 3. PVC threaded fitting. Just don't forget it must be male PVC to female metal..or else it may crack, and don't over tighten. Another tip, if you plan to use a storage water heater like a Rheem or Ariston. You'll have an overflow valve for releasing steam, you can also join that to the 15mm SS or cu pipe coming down from the ceiling. A t-fitting will work. So you only have one pipe showing if needed. Personally, if I can't hide the pipe, I prefer to keep all the pipes 10-15cm from the floor even if they need to run horizontally. They stay dryer and cleaner (from soap scum and stains), also doesn't get in the way when it's time to mop or scrub.
Hi there, thanks for the informative video! I'd like to check, since you guys bought from Audio House, was your aircon set up with the same 'upgraded' materials like that of Gain City's? For e.g the wire cables, 3/4 insulation for copper pipes, insulation for pvc drainage pipes etc. If not, was there an option to opt for these?
@@thesuakus oh.. we just made a trip down to confirm with Audio House. Because our materials are 22G copper pipe with 1/2" insulation, and the wire is 3C40. They insisted that if you guys have 3/4" insulation it wouldve been a separate upgrade with cost, and their wires are all 3C40 instead of 4C40. Did you guys pay for upgrades? Or is your insulation 1/2"? And wire 3C40.
the wall above the toilet door can be drilled to make space for the aircon piping? i was wondering how do I know which walls cannot be drilled at all. does that mean I can hack down the walls around the toilet door to make a bigger double sided sliding door entrance?
Class 0 and Class 1 insulation refers to the fire-rated properties with Class 1 referring to the insulation having fire-resistant properties while Class 0 referring to insulation being very fire-retardant and therefore, the classes have absolutely nothing to do with the thickness of the insulation; apologies if you didn't mean to infer that when you say "thicker Class 0 Armaflex insulation" but just in case others interpreted it as so.
Hi thank you for all your super informative videos! Truly learnt alot from your journey❤ May I ask about your experience so far after moving in- whether the Aircon placement from the dining area blowing into the living room is able to sufficiently cool the living room? We have the same layout as you too, so we are considering this layout as well! Thanks in advance!
Heya! You are most welcome 😀 Always happy to hear that they've been helpful for fellow homeowners! So far so good! Our 24k can cool down our entire dining and living room. It's actually quite cold for us when we are on the sofa!
Hello! Glad you found it informative!😀 This was the most recommended solution taking into account our door frame and beam situation. We also thought it looked flushed and neat, and made sense (reduced box-up and avoided box-up on door frame which is prone to open/close instability)
Nice layout and informative video! Been always wondering how all these false ceiling are being done up. Just wondering how come one side of the the living room aircon side wasn't box up and the other was boxed? That does expose a bit of trunking on your very nice curved false ceiling.
Hello! Yes, we have always wondered how too!! Mystery solved aha. Ya for the dining aircon, there is a little exposed trunking coming out of the aircon unit. Only the perpendicular is boxed up. In fact, we had since cut a tiny slice of the box up so that it can be accessed for maintenance.
How does you guys decide on the aircon units locations? For a 3 room bto wise, do you think if the aircon in the living room be right in the middle of the living room, one just right on top of the door, while the one in the master bedroom one just right on top of the washroom door? As my case, I should've choose to placed the aircon in the master bedroom just right on top of the washroom I've asked the aircon installer that we'll be having a carpentry wardrobe installation soon at the left side of the mbr washroom entrance so he gave us option that we could have the aircon installed at the other side of the room so somehow I listened to his advice and chose to placed the aircon in the furthest right side of the room which is just right opposite in front of our double bed, ended up we had to pay $2xx plus extra for additional piping costs 😢
Just fyi, its the phase change from liquid to gas that creates most of the "cooling effect" (heat is absorbed to change from liquid to gas), and heat is rejected from the refrigerant at the compressor when it changes from gas to liquid. Not really PV=NRT, though that gives a brief overview why the pipes are different sizes and the overall idea.
Hello! For your insulation, everybody tells me that it only comes in 6ft length and joined together with tape. Yours look like 4 uncut insulation pipes, right?
Why punch out along the common toilet wall? Could you not punch through the 3 toilet walls to reach the dining wall (i.e. run the trunking on the inner side of the common toilet wall)? Would that not have hidden the trucking more? Was this a regulatory constraint, a renovation constraint, or some other decision factor? I'm in the same estate, with the 86sqm 4 rooms, so I'll be pretty much in a similar boat soon 😂
Hello! If I understood correctly, for BTOs cannot touch HDB toilet tiles at all for 3 years~ some projects may come with the easy-punch openings but not ours
Hi can i check how do you look for the size of the BTU on the compressor unit? for instance on gain city website i only have the btu for the fan coil but not the outdoor compressor. Or does adding all the fan coil unit btu equals the btu for the outdoor compressor?
Hello! We try to explain in sua ku language.. 😅The specs of the compressor will state. For instance, here is the specs of our Panasonic compressor (Refer to www.gaincity.com/product/126152/sku/) There is a table that states the Outdoor Unit specs for our compressor CU-4XU33YBZ. You can see the row called "Cooling Capacity (min to max)". The range is max 38.2K BTU/hr 😀 It is not a summation of the fan coil units. We only do summation if you want to count to see which units can be turned on at the same time without stressing the compressor. For example, we have a 24K, 9K, 9K, 9K - so ideally we can only turn on the 24K and 9K for optimal use (total 33K). If we turn on a third unit the total would be 42K which would exceed the max Cooling Capacity 😀 Hope this explains!
hello! may i check which ac installer you guys chose from audiohouse? understand that there's quite a few since i purchased from audiohouse as well. would appreciate if you could share so that we can pick the correct one haha (:
Hello! Audio House assigned us Kenneth from " EK ". We did two separate trips (first trunking, and then installation). They are not bad! Stay tuned to the next upcoming episode on Installation!
Hello!! You can share your home layout with the aircon sales team at Audio House / Gain City etc and they will help u calculate on the spot and give you recommendation :D
Hey there! Pros 1. Long Aerowings allow for fast cooling 2. NanoeX air purifier function 3. In-built smart features compatible with Google Home 4. So far so good - no leaking whatsoever Cons 1. Long Aerowings may hit the door (if aircon located above door) when turning on/off so need to measure properly 😅 2. Not very common so aircon servicing team may not know how to handle it properly (need check w them beforehand) You can see our Lemon8 post here : s.lemon8-app.com/al/ydpMUhykQR
@@thesuakus Not sure exactly what he/she meant by normal rated but with any engines, you don't want to go full load on it, nor do you want to under-utilize it too much. Usually, there is a sweet spot where the engine is at the most efficient. Going below or past that point, you will be using more resources per unit of output. That sweet spot is also how the compressor gets its 5 star energy ratings. If I am not wrong, you will usually see 3 numbers, e.g. for Mitsubishi Electric MXY-3H28VG, you will see that the capacity is stated as 6.5 (1.3 - 8.9). The 6.5kW here is the most optimal operating capacity that yields the best efficiency while it supports as high as 8.9kW and as low as 1.3kW in terms of cooling capacity.
Very concise aircon explanation. 10/10
Your ac pipes installer is also much better than the one I got. Much more professional and cleaner workmanship.
Thanks always for your encouraging words!! 💪
this is super informative and has very practical tips on how to calculate aircon related things!!! thank you!!
Thank you so much!! Glad it was helpful for you!! 🤩
One of the most informative video on ac 👍 can't wait to see your curve false ceiling up!
Glad you found it informative! 😇 Stay tuned for our next epi!!
not bad ah you managed to show all the participants names so its very fair
Thanks for sharing. Well explained! For our bto we run the piping outside the rooms. Just did it yday. So this video is very helpful. 👍
You are most welcome! Running piping outside rooms is good choice for maintenence perspective ! 👍😊
Thank you for sharing your home renovation journey. I got a lot of tips from your videos!
Glad you found the tips useful!! 😇
Awesome sharing especially on the upgraded aircon materials.. Informative.. i likeee...
Thanks for watching and glad you found it informative!! 🤩
For those that choose to tile over the existing tile, you can preplan your a/c drain pvc pipe location, and transition from pvc to stainless steel in the false ceiling, then it's a clean 15mm ss pipe with nice ss brackets holding the pipe down to the floor. Alternatively you can even run the drain pipe behind the tile and direct into the floor trap under the tile, so that the drain pipe isn't visible at all. It's a non-pressurized pipe, so maintenance is minimal and no fear of leaks with hydraulic clamped joints.
If you choose to stick with pvc, you might want to consider getting a good tile bit and still installing pipe clips to secure the pipe, you can get matching grey abs clips.
Hello Moses! Thank you so much for taking your time to share so many useful tips! We wish we'd known about all these beforehand! Do you have an example image of the transition? Aha trying to visualise!
@@thesuakus There's actually a few options. The key is that it's a non pressure pipe drain pipe, so all the concerns for connecting stainless to pvc for potable water don't apply. Here's a few I've seen:
1. Use a standard brass compression fitting (the one with the rings) , just for the pvc side, there's a PVC insert you put to reinforce and so the PVC pipe doesn't crack. Just Google 'cpvc to copper compression fitting'.
2. They now also have special made couplings that have a threaded stainless portion and a PVC side combined that you can use standard PVC cement. I've never used it myself looks too ex and over engineered for my usage.
3. PVC threaded fitting. Just don't forget it must be male PVC to female metal..or else it may crack, and don't over tighten.
Another tip, if you plan to use a storage water heater like a Rheem or Ariston. You'll have an overflow valve for releasing steam, you can also join that to the 15mm SS or cu pipe coming down from the ceiling. A t-fitting will work. So you only have one pipe showing if needed.
Personally, if I can't hide the pipe, I prefer to keep all the pipes 10-15cm from the floor even if they need to run horizontally. They stay dryer and cleaner (from soap scum and stains), also doesn't get in the way when it's time to mop or scrub.
Hi there, thanks for the informative video! I'd like to check, since you guys bought from Audio House, was your aircon set up with the same 'upgraded' materials like that of Gain City's? For e.g the wire cables, 3/4 insulation for copper pipes, insulation for pvc drainage pipes etc. If not, was there an option to opt for these?
Hello there! Yes all the "upgraded materials" are similar and are a given :)
@@thesuakus oh.. we just made a trip down to confirm with Audio House. Because our materials are 22G copper pipe with 1/2" insulation, and the wire is 3C40.
They insisted that if you guys have 3/4" insulation it wouldve been a separate upgrade with cost, and their wires are all 3C40 instead of 4C40.
Did you guys pay for upgrades? Or is your insulation 1/2"? And wire 3C40.
the wall above the toilet door can be drilled to make space for the aircon piping? i was wondering how do I know which walls cannot be drilled at all.
does that mean I can hack down the walls around the toilet door to make a bigger double sided sliding door entrance?
Thanks for the info. Do you conceal those trunkings eventually? Also may i know where your aircons are bought from?
Class 0 and Class 1 insulation refers to the fire-rated properties with Class 1 referring to the insulation having fire-resistant properties while Class 0 referring to insulation being very fire-retardant and therefore, the classes have absolutely nothing to do with the thickness of the insulation; apologies if you didn't mean to infer that when you say "thicker Class 0 Armaflex insulation" but just in case others interpreted it as so.
Yup that's right! 😀 The Classes refer to the fire-rated properties. Pardon the sua ku english 😅 what we meant is "thicker" and "class 0" insulation
Hi thank you for all your super informative videos! Truly learnt alot from your journey❤
May I ask about your experience so far after moving in- whether the Aircon placement from the dining area blowing into the living room is able to sufficiently cool the living room?
We have the same layout as you too, so we are considering this layout as well!
Thanks in advance!
Heya! You are most welcome 😀 Always happy to hear that they've been helpful for fellow homeowners! So far so good! Our 24k can cool down our entire dining and living room. It's actually quite cold for us when we are on the sofa!
wow, very informative, can i check why do you have a gap between the aircon trunking and the room doors for the walk in wardrobe? thanks!
Hello! Glad you found it informative!😀 This was the most recommended solution taking into account our door frame and beam situation. We also thought it looked flushed and neat, and made sense (reduced box-up and avoided box-up on door frame which is prone to open/close instability)
😝futher down the video, i thought i was watching an Air-con educational video...hahaha😆... Nice info guys👏👍
Ahah yes we thought it would be a simple episode but things escalated fast 😆 Hope you found it useful!
Awesome content!
Thank you for your support! 🥰
Hi @thesuakus, could u kindly share who is doing your contractor aircon? I need to change my aircon and piping set .Thank you in advance.
Hello there! It was "EK" assigned to us by Audio House
Nice layout and informative video! Been always wondering how all these false ceiling are being done up. Just wondering how come one side of the the living room aircon side wasn't box up and the other was boxed? That does expose a bit of trunking on your very nice curved false ceiling.
Hello! Yes, we have always wondered how too!! Mystery solved aha. Ya for the dining aircon, there is a little exposed trunking coming out of the aircon unit. Only the perpendicular is boxed up. In fact, we had since cut a tiny slice of the box up so that it can be accessed for maintenance.
How does you guys decide on the aircon units locations?
For a 3 room bto wise, do you think if the aircon in the living room be right in the middle of the living room, one just right on top of the door, while the one in the master bedroom one just right on top of the washroom door?
As my case, I should've choose to placed the aircon in the master bedroom just right on top of the washroom I've asked the aircon installer that we'll be having a carpentry wardrobe installation soon at the left side of the mbr washroom entrance so he gave us option that we could have the aircon installed at the other side of the room so somehow I listened to his advice and chose to placed the aircon in the furthest right side of the room which is just right opposite in front of our double bed, ended up we had to pay $2xx plus extra for additional piping costs 😢
Hi! Your installer advice sounds about alright! You can DM us your floor plan on IG for us to have a closer look :)
looking nice
Just fyi, its the phase change from liquid to gas that creates most of the "cooling effect" (heat is absorbed to change from liquid to gas), and heat is rejected from the refrigerant at the compressor when it changes from gas to liquid. Not really PV=NRT, though that gives a brief overview why the pipes are different sizes and the overall idea.
Thanks for sharing!! Aha ya we tried to simplify it for sua kus so alot of the technicalities will be lost 🤪
Hi Neighbour, thank you for sharing this informative video. Will you also be able to share the aircon trunking casing measurement? 😊
Hi Willy! Good question, we never thought about the casing breadth. Are there a few standard sizes?
Hello! For your insulation, everybody tells me that it only comes in 6ft length and joined together with tape. Yours look like 4 uncut insulation pipes, right?
Hello! Yes it is normal to have insulation stitched together with tape :)
Hi neighbor , about same layout as urs...now also headache planning aircon...anyways keys collection coming soon this week
Hi again neighbour! Ahah finally!?! 🥳
@THE SUA KUS The wait is soon to be over😅
Why punch out along the common toilet wall? Could you not punch through the 3 toilet walls to reach the dining wall (i.e. run the trunking on the inner side of the common toilet wall)? Would that not have hidden the trucking more? Was this a regulatory constraint, a renovation constraint, or some other decision factor? I'm in the same estate, with the 86sqm 4 rooms, so I'll be pretty much in a similar boat soon 😂
Hello! If I understood correctly, for BTOs cannot touch HDB toilet tiles at all for 3 years~ some projects may come with the easy-punch openings but not ours
wow thank you so much for the informative videos
You are most welcome!! 🤩
If you build the study room on other side of Living room, what is the recommended route for aircon water pipe?
Hi! You can send us your floor plan on IG @thesuakus and we'll be happy to take a look :D
Hi can i check how do you look for the size of the BTU on the compressor unit? for instance on gain city website i only have the btu for the fan coil but not the outdoor compressor. Or does adding all the fan coil unit btu equals the btu for the outdoor compressor?
Hello! We try to explain in sua ku language.. 😅The specs of the compressor will state. For instance, here is the specs of our Panasonic compressor (Refer to www.gaincity.com/product/126152/sku/) There is a table that states the Outdoor Unit specs for our compressor CU-4XU33YBZ. You can see the row called "Cooling Capacity (min to max)". The range is max 38.2K BTU/hr 😀 It is not a summation of the fan coil units. We only do summation if you want to count to see which units can be turned on at the same time without stressing the compressor. For example, we have a 24K, 9K, 9K, 9K - so ideally we can only turn on the 24K and 9K for optimal use (total 33K). If we turn on a third unit the total would be 42K which would exceed the max Cooling Capacity 😀 Hope this explains!
hello! may i check which ac installer you guys chose from audiohouse? understand that there's quite a few since i purchased from audiohouse as well. would appreciate if you could share so that we can pick the correct one haha (:
Hello! Audio House assigned us Kenneth from " EK ". We did two separate trips (first trunking, and then installation). They are not bad! Stay tuned to the next upcoming episode on Installation!
Why some choose to install the aircon in 2 separate trips?
Cleanliness to protect fancoil units from reno debris and dust, more attention to detail as no time crunch
Hello, I followed the PowerPoint thingy but I still can't get it done. Can you explain further? TIA
Hello!! You can share your home layout with the aircon sales team at Audio House / Gain City etc and they will help u calculate on the spot and give you recommendation :D
hi, i'm checking out the prism+ aircons currently, any review?
Hello! If you are looking for smart aircon, we do recommend our Panasonic nanoe X series. It has an extra air purifier function too
@@thesuakus hi you are not using prism aircon?
Nope! Ours is the Panasonic :)
Hi any review on your Panasonic aircon? Would be grateful if you can share some pro & cons after using for 4-5 mths. Thanks in advance
Hey there!
Pros
1. Long Aerowings allow for fast cooling
2. NanoeX air purifier function
3. In-built smart features compatible with Google Home
4. So far so good - no leaking whatsoever
Cons
1. Long Aerowings may hit the door (if aircon located above door) when turning on/off so need to measure properly 😅
2. Not very common so aircon servicing team may not know how to handle it properly (need check w them beforehand)
You can see our Lemon8 post here : s.lemon8-app.com/al/ydpMUhykQR
Can you share the name of the aircon installer ? Did a nice job.
Hello! Our installer is "EK" and assigned by Audio House 😀
@@thesuakus Thanks
hi, can share how to upload to ppt? the floor plan format is pdf or jpeg?
Hi! You can use Snipping Tool to screenshot and paste it in the ppt and then resize it to scale :)
Am also buying my Panasonic aircon from AH
Can share which installer you choose?
Hello! Our installer is "EK" 😄 They are pretty solid
@@thesuakus thanks!
Miso 😍🥰
Miso says hi!! 🐶
i on giveaway wheel happy already
Hello Raeyan 😄 ahah good luck for the next giveaway!!
33k btu doesnt really run at 33k. Normal rated at 23.5k btu. Nt many ppl know this though
Oohh! How does that work aha help share more knowledge with everyone!! 🙏
@@thesuakus Not sure exactly what he/she meant by normal rated but with any engines, you don't want to go full load on it, nor do you want to under-utilize it too much. Usually, there is a sweet spot where the engine is at the most efficient. Going below or past that point, you will be using more resources per unit of output. That sweet spot is also how the compressor gets its 5 star energy ratings. If I am not wrong, you will usually see 3 numbers, e.g. for Mitsubishi Electric MXY-3H28VG, you will see that the capacity is stated as 6.5 (1.3 - 8.9). The 6.5kW here is the most optimal operating capacity that yields the best efficiency while it supports as high as 8.9kW and as low as 1.3kW in terms of cooling capacity.