How to properly bleed your brakes on your 9th Gen Honda Accord
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video I will show you how to properly bleed your brakes on your 9th Gen Honda Accord. The link to where I bought the items is below at Amazon.
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3M silicon paste▶ amzn.to/2vjhK2m
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I changed my calipers and pads but didn't know how to bleed brakes. Now I do! Thanks bro
I was just at Honda yesterday in Reno Nevada and the wanted 130.00 for this. I went to parts and bought the break fluid for 13.00 and now with this video I’ll do it myself! Thanks!
Here in Austin TX a local shop wanted $110 to do it on my Honda Civic. As you point out, the cost doing it yourself is a small fraction. I think the biggest hurdle most folks have never done it before, and its the brakes, so it scares them.
$150-160 in Vegas! Ridiculous!
Thank you for the content, was nervous to start DIYing once I first started but the dealership pricing is more nauseating haha
Just paid Honda stealership in California $150.00 for brake flush and fluid replacement.
Honda Dealership here in Marysville,WA wanted 200.
Clear tubing works better. You can see the fluid and the air bubbles in the tube as the fluid comes out.
Clear tubing doesn’t actually do anything better. It’s just a visual preference to some.
this guy knows what he's talking about
Helpful video, I'm about to install new rear brake calipers on my '09 Honda Accord with no helper. Need to go buy some vacuum hose and a turkey baster device. So true, if you want it done right, do it yourself!
Thanks for showing , hoping to do mine soon
The paste trick works for older cars but with newer cars the thread type on the bleeder is different and won't allow leakage via threads when it's only a little bit loose
It's still cheap insurance against air leakage. Cheap and adds very little time.
Worked and done in 30 minutes. Even with new rotors, calipers and pads. Thank you
You’re talking out of your ass
I call bs on that
Good skill, thank you !
Great idea , works great
Good job, thanks a lot!
Great video. Very concise and informative. Thank you! Liked and subscribed.
Great presentation
Thanks so much!
Better to use clear tubbing so that you can see when the bubbles are gone.
and the right rear wheel first and left rear and right front and left front last. don't really know my technique is old but this guy has different method.
Nice vid 🤙🏾
I have a 2000 Honda accord EX V6 i added after market break fluid dot 3 Preston. I want to flush it out and add OEM Honda break fluid per the service manual.
I’d suggest using dot 3 if it says option you could use 3 or 4 on a daily car just because you’d have to change the dot 4 more frequently and it’s more for performance driving just my input
This is what i needed my brake pedal is sunken after i changed the pads and mistakenly open the nipple and bled out.
Great vid. Thanks for the help!
So the paste is to prevent air from getting in through the threads. What about the zerk fitting? Is it one way only ? As in the fluid only comes out the Zerk fitting but air Will not come back through? Kinda like a check valve ??
Is this the same process for a 2015 civic?
Does gravity bleeding bleed the master cylinder also.
You put silicone paste around the front nipple but not the back. Forget? Or is it really not necessary? Never seen that before.
I never knew how hard it is to find a 6 point combination wrench in USA stores. It's as if 6 point combination wrenches were banned from sale.
what size is the hose?
Great video but I have a question. My accord front passenger brake caliper piston got stuck and it wouldn't retract. I kept smelling burn metal however, I replaced it the caliper and the mechanic bled the line. The brakes worked wonderfully but the ABS came light came on a few hours later. It lasted like 2 days and then it turn off however the brakes seem to be working awkward. For some reason the brakes slide and feel like there is no gripping. I can be driving 15 MPH and slightly brake and it doesn't grip and or slides and i feel a vibration on the pedal. Have you ever experienced this? Maybe even after you've bled the line?
My front right caliper was having a retracting issue too. I'd change the front pads because I'd hear the pin, and notice the passenger side was worn all the way down, and the driver side had over half still left
how many ounces of brake fluid do you usually use in this whole process?
What is in the bottle and what is the size of the tube?
Russell, using this method, how many ounces would be required to do on the 9/9.5 Gen?
A standard 1 quart bottle
Do you close the cap on the reservoir while bleeding?
No you don’t, leave it open so that you can keep an eye to make sure it’s not empty because you’ll need to fill it up as it emptys very fast.
Great tutorial sir however like to ask and find out how often in your miles estimation should you do this bleeding for brakes or clutch fluid ? And do you do this every time you feel your brake pedal is spongy?
Miles are only part of the equation, some makers recommend brake fluid should be changed every 3 years, i change mine every 2 years as i've come across too many vehicles with seized calipers, brake fluid is not only hydroscopic( absorbs water )but also acts as a lubricant so leave it too long and a bigger bill follows, this job is just as easy to do as changing your oil
You don’t put silicone to the rear brakes, why??
hello is the reservoir cap off the entire time? also while you're pumping brake pedal?
Yes
Is there an alternative to the 3M silicone paste? It seems to be quite expensive anywhere I've found it in Canada, and I'm about to do this procedure on my 2013 Accord in a few days, while changing my rear calipers. Thanks.
I personally remove my bleeder screws and wrap them with Teflon tape. Seems to work well also.
Permatex silicone ceramic brake lubricant. Find it at Canadian tire. I've used it and never had any problems
Do you close the reservoir cap as you're bleeding the brakes so that air doesn't get sucked in? Or is leaving the cap open OK?
Air will not get into the line just make sure to keep fluid in the reservoir up while your bleeding the breaks
so do u put it on neutral?so u can press the brake while bleeding?
What would neutral have anything to do with the brakes?
Ever think about a chewed up pice of gum around the bleeder? Just watching thought I bet that would work very well.
The worry would be any residue left behind is going to burn and carbonize. The silicone paste he's using is rated for very high temps, so it doesn't have the same concern.
Do you feel up the reservoir 4 times ? Why do you feel up the reservoir as you flush each caliper ? Is it to keep the air out ?
Yes
hi what is the size of the hose you used to bleed the brakes??
could you send me the link to buy it on amazon please..
Does the ignition have to be on when pumping brakes?
Noo
You should start the car anytime you are pumping the brake pedal
Awesome. Weather Tech mats,, 6 speed manual. Local Honda shop $125 for this job.
i'm curious whether my local Honda dealer would bleed the lines or just suck out the fluid and pour in new fluid into the brake reservoir
Question: why do you bleed then you say refill the reservoir during the bleeding?
The reason you refill the reservoir during the bleeding is because as your pumping, youre pumping/pushing fluid from the reservoir into the brake system. by bleeding youre draining it back out to get rid of air(mainly) or old fluid that was trapped in your brake lines/system. This causes the fluid level in the reservoir to simmer down. If you dont add fluid into your reservoir, youre going to end up pumping air back into your brake system which is bad. So you want to check the reservoir and add fluid everytime it gets low. Main reason for bleeding your brakes is to get rid of air in your brake lines/system that causes your brake pedal to feel spongy/soft and have uneven pressure throughout all the brakes.
Inf4m0us_TsaB8 took me a few more videos but I now understand, thanks!
@@inf4m0us_tsab85 My brake pedal is really spongy after I bled the brakes. What can I do to fix that? Thanks.
@@sinaelee6250 You need to bleed them some more. You've obviously got air into the system and you need to get it out.
On 2014 accord, with engine off, one can only foot pump the brake once. It locks up then. I’m afraid to leave the engine on.
Xinfu Xia the reason it locks up is because you’ve built up the pressure in the brake lines, by opening the bleeder nipple there will be room to build more pressure so you can pump the brakes more. So engine does not need to be on
It goes hard because the engine is no longer vacuum assisting the brakes. There is nothing wrong with pumping the brakes when it is hard, that's how much force it normally takes to actuate the brakes without the engine helping you out.
Question when I bleed my rear breaks no fluid is coming out what can it be
Bleeder valve screw is clogged with rust or debris. In this case, you would need to remove the bleeder screw completely and try to clean it up and reopen the hole. Either that or simply replace it with a new one
Hi. question. how are your calipers so clean? Could be where you live, or maybe you cleaned and painted them. what did you use?
He prolly made the video because he just replaced them 😄
Wire brush works wonders
@@Litto1 there is no way they got that clean with wire bursh. Hot tank. Sand blast. Maybe . Wire brush maybe after a week and 3 wheels.
Hey dude what was the order you went in ?!
@@purduediesel11 I think you still have an old car, because since some years ago the order is driver side, front passenger side, rear right passenger side and finally rear left passenger side. You can check in any manual for Honda 9th generation.
Do you need to keep the cap on the brake fluid reservoir when you are pumping the brakes?
No just make sure it has lots of fluid so no air goes in the system
Should the car be off when bleeding the brakes or should it be on ?
Definitely off
Do you have to bleed the brakes? Would changing the brake fluid in the reservoir enough?
No, you still need to bleed the brakes. Draining and re-filling the reservoir alone does not replace the fluid in the lines and hoses between the res and the calipers. You still need to get the old fluid out of the lines and hoses, and that requires bleeding.
You didnt put 3m around the rear brake. Js.
Car is on or off?
My brake pedal was firm when I stepped on it before, but after I bled the brakes the pedal became really loose. Now when I drive I have to press the brake down all the way for the car to stop. A couple of times my tires screeched to a stop. Do you have any suggestions or feedback? Thanks.
My brake pedal is really spongy after I bled the brakes. What can I do to fix that? Thanks.
Sounds like you let the reservoir empty while bleeding your breaks.
@@sinaelee6250 During your bleed process, air entered into the brake line so you will need to bleed he entire 4 brakes again until there are no air bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve. Its not safe to have spongy brake pedal.
is 1L fluid enough for the process..?
No buy 4L just in case, dont wanna have 2 or 3 bottle and turned out u need a little more and drive around with not enough fluid
A liter is a little more than a quart, so it is plenty. Spike is thinking of the small 8 oz cans. You would need four of them. It is a lot cheaper to buy one quart or one liter.
So I'm either deaf or just cant find the order...
What's the reason for the water in the ocean spray bottle?
Its easier to see any air bubbles coming out.
It prevents air from getting sucked back up in the line when you let go of the brake pedal.
You should actually have fresh brake fluid in there and not water.
@@pault1439 I usually use the old fluid i pull out of the reservoir with a baster.
Findlay Honda Northwest Las Vegas wants to charge me $149.95 for this service. How would I know that they will actually bleed the brakes and not just change the fluid in the reservoir? These are the same a$$holes who told me I needed to change my dirty engine air filter ($44.95) when I already did that myself 5 months earlier.
Time to go to an honest shop.
7:30, you forgot the silicone paste!
I was going to say the fluid looks fine until you started pumping the brakes
Clear tubing makes it easier
Is that a clutch reservoir??? Manual transmission!!!!
It’s the brake reservoir
@@johnjkizer6399 you sure? I'm talking about the small tank in front of the brake reservoir that looks like a slave cylinder.
Does the car need to be on acc?
$230 to change where I live! Acura dealer
This video just shows how to bleed and you will find tons of videos. This dude do not show the sequence of bleeding. I rewind and try to know which wheel he did the first, nothing there. To me I have done couple cars and not helpful because dude is not giving us the sequence. He is not saying and showing which one he did the first and end with what wheel.
I always do the left front wheel first because it's closest to the reservoir. That way if you accidentally get some air in the line it doesn't take much extra fluid to get the air out. The sequence doesn't matter after that.. Just pump each brake line until you get clear fluid.
The order depends on several factors. You need to reference your car's manual for the order.
Instantly turned off the video when he mentioned gravity bleeding gravity bleeding is not I repeat IS NOT REAL. And it does not work
Is he seriously using water to prevent getting air in the system? I’d rather get air bubbles in my brake lines than water. You’re supposed to use brake fluid from the reservoir!
Water or anything else does NOT get in the brakes. You clearly don't understand why you even put the hose in a liquid substance. Its air prevention, NOT to suck the liquid medium into the system. So you think that the old brake fluid that you use is getting sucked back up into the line? NO just air prevention.
@@9thGenAccord You are correct in that the "water seal" (using a liquid with a hose submerged) will prevent air from being sucked back into the lines, and at the same time allows for the air to be purged from the system. However, depending on the length of hose you have from the nipple to the water seal container, you may possibly draw the fluid, (water in your case) back into the line. When negative pressure is built up by pumping the brakes, this can occur. Having the cap off the reservoir makes this unlikely. Also, having 2' or so of vacuum line will also make this a lot less likely. But, with the cost of even OEM Honda Brake fluid at ~$10 for 12oz, there is no reason to risk having old fluid get sucked up or water, if either of those options are used. Safest bet is to put new, fresh brake fluid in the bottle. As long as the hose is submerged, you are good to go and won't suck air back in.
If anyone else has comments on this, agree or disagree Id appreciate the feedback. Thanks
So far in the last 48 years of doing it this way I have never had any water, old brake fluid etc ever go back up the line. Maybe a short line would but its over 14 inches so I never even come close. I normally use old brake fluid left over from the previous flush, but water is great to see any weird contaminates coming out since its very clear.
@@9thGenAccord Yeah, honestly the more I think about this, that makes sense. You are very unlikely to create enough back pressure to suck back up fluid. Also agree using water, that's clear....allows you to see all the crap that gets flushed out. Thanks for the reply