4:20 ....smudge on bulkhead gives a clue to location of leak. Fumes in cabin can be nauseating 😉. I thought of heat and beat but you are right .....cast iron would split. Who else is on the edge of their seat for part 2😃🇻🇨
I always enjoy supplying a Land Rover to enable you to solve mechanical puzzles. Can't wait to see Part 2!... And changing the fuel tank (again) tomorrow!
It's very brave of you to give Mike your Land Rover so he can point out everything that's non-standard about it. If it was me, I think I'd want to get my Land Rover serviced by somebody else before taking it to Mike, to make sure it was presentable. 🥵
Land Rover ownership comes with a high degree of humility. And Mike's sense of humor and sarcasm are constantky reminding me to be humble, and I learn everytime!
For those of us without a smoke machine you can just squirt soapy water at the joints when the engine is running. Works quite well. Oh , difficult to clamp but it could be machined round again , it could even be heated and blazing put on before machining to keep the wall thickness.
Mike I maybe able to help. About 30 years ago I learned a trick it works fine . Get a bean can or any can . Cut the lip off the top and bottom so you have a sheet of curves tin. Insert this into the exhaust and that will allow you to take up the gap that's in the oval Shape. We used to do that to fit big back boxes to small exhaust pipes . , or another option is to make a new downpipe from weld elbows and copy the Shape off the flange onto steel and weld together. I would try the bean can trick first
Mike if your stuck ,I put mine back together with,and I'm not proud of the fact silicone exhaust compound!... Three years and twenty seven thousand miles ago,still working just fine.
I was thinking of just braising it to a round... only problem being how to clean it up round... if you have a good 4 jaw chuck in a lathe that might be an option? Would need to be quite a big lathe, though.
Hi Mike, that exhaust clamp isn't the right one, which is possibly why the manifold has been squeezed out of shape and is no longer round. The correct clamp is part number is NTC3608, which is a round style clamp instead of that U bolt one.
Having done this job many times I am surprised Mike did not see that issue straight away - that u clamp is never going to work correctly. Mike be greatful you do not have to fit a Britpart replacement (or Bearmach) neither are accurate and both down pipes need tweaking with scaffold poles to align correctly with that bloody plate that secures the pipe to the block. As an aside I have never had a leak at this joint, is there a lot of back pressure in the exhaust system - oddly I thought it did not need to be very well sealed as the gases just shoot down and past. Certainly never leaked for me there.
It appears as if the nylocs have split washers under them? Ive done the same when in a rush and cant find normal (preferably brass) nuts. No real harm done except the nylon can smell a bit if it burns out!
How about fitting a 300 Tdi manifold plus a 300 front down pipe, Great if you have an high-up turbo as on defenders which are different than the ones fitted to Disco,s. I dread having to do this job on my motor. Best wishes from Yorkshire Rob.
If I were trying to fix this for nowt I would consider some slots hacksawed into the pipe to allow it to squash in a bit. If that won't work what about a bit of flexy stainless steel joiner like we see joining manifolds to downpipes? Final hardest idea is get a flat plate welded on the end to make a flange plate? Interested to see your solution! 👍
Could you use a band type clamp so it creates uniform pressure all the way round and causes the exhaust pipe to conform to the downpipe elliptical profile?
Haven’t finished watching the vid yet, but when you started her up, you can see a puff of the black 3.58 smoke coming up from the manifold, probably why the underside of the hinge is black. Ps, no parcel arrive from this side of the pond yet? I did send it via the boat, being a tight Irish man🤣
you could build the OD up with sliver solder and the get JP to machine it round again. it would not be to hard to clamp it up.... a few vices and a over size v block
May I offer a suggestion. Supposing you cut the warped stub off the end, get JP to turn up another one on the lathe, to original ( round) size, braze that on and...job done.. good as new again.
Cut 3 slots around the oval and inset a sleeve just undersize? Exhaust clamp should take up the difference!? Might have to sleeve the sleeve to bring up the dia to fit the other bit. Scrap that - too many whiskys - I'll wait for part two. 👍
Could you not find a collet to fit around the O.D and try compressing it to try and true it up? Or put a close fitting socket or round bar inside it and hit the outside with a hammer to try and bring it back into round? Maybe go up a size socket or round bar when the first one becomes loose and hammer it again? Might work enough to hold a seal with some exhaust putty then.
@@BritannicaRestorations true that, but if it’s not too brittle to crack being bent into it current shape could it not be bent a little back closer to round without cracking? I wonder if it’s not already cracked since it’s bent?
Silicon sealer for exhausts Mike, never that paste that goes hard. Silicon acts as a lubricant to help put it together and once set, it flexes and will never leak.
this cast iron pipe went red hot , with too much boost , and with a bad clamp on it went oval ( you know LR oval ) , solution ? could be those exhaust corrugated with wire mesh flexible exhaust used on modern cars to adapt to the pipes...
Mike. Could the smoke machine also test for excess human flatulence too ? Christ almighty those LHD Defenders are a pig to work on in 200/300Tdi guise ! V.
Mike, you've got to start thinking like a "Pakistani Mechanic", you know they have a way of fixing everything. Eat more curry and swap your safety footwear for sandals, yep, that'll work.
I hate with a passion that bracket - I have had to refit the down pipe four times on my car and this is the worst job. Bloody LR engineers - utterly dreadful design. AArgh .... Now I feel better.
If that part is made of stainless steel and the pipe is also made of SS why can you not just weld it on with SS welding rods or wire if its not cast iron then welding should not be a problem SS should not crack ???
4:20 ....smudge on bulkhead gives a clue to location of leak. Fumes in cabin can be nauseating 😉. I thought of heat and beat but you are right .....cast iron would split. Who else is on the edge of their seat for part 2😃🇻🇨
Tomorrow!
Glad to know I'm not the only one driven crazy by that downpipe bracket!!!
No space to work!
@@BritannicaRestorations easier on the RHD but still a git to do, and then lower bracket!!! Yep def easier to do it all with the wing off!
I always enjoy supplying a Land Rover to enable you to solve mechanical puzzles. Can't wait to see Part 2!... And changing the fuel tank (again) tomorrow!
It's very brave of you to give Mike your Land Rover so he can point out everything that's non-standard about it.
If it was me, I think I'd want to get my Land Rover serviced by somebody else before taking it to Mike, to make sure it was presentable. 🥵
Land Rover ownership comes with a high degree of humility. And Mike's sense of humor and sarcasm are constantky reminding me to be humble, and I learn everytime!
I bet the Pakastani's have a stick to add material. The machining would still be interesting.
lol!
Wasn’t it some joke about light and holes. 😉
Cheers King Mike. 🥃
For those of us without a smoke machine you can just squirt soapy water at the joints when the engine is running.
Works quite well.
Oh , difficult to clamp but it could be machined round again , it could even be heated and blazing put on before machining to keep the wall thickness.
See part 2 soon!
Mike I maybe able to help. About 30 years ago I learned a trick it works fine . Get a bean can or any can . Cut the lip off the top and bottom so you have a sheet of curves tin. Insert this into the exhaust and that will allow you to take up the gap that's in the oval Shape. We used to do that to fit big back boxes to small exhaust pipes . , or another option is to make a new downpipe from weld elbows and copy the Shape off the flange onto steel and weld together. I would try the bean can trick first
Very interesting!! A proper pucker 200tdi defender engine is a rare beast these days. Most are disco engines. Nice interesting video
Thanks for watching!
Mike if your stuck ,I put mine back together with,and I'm not proud of the fact silicone exhaust compound!...
Three years and twenty seven thousand miles ago,still working just fine.
I Think I'll wait for Part 2 Coming Soon. ☺☺
I thought that you would build up the flange with JBweld then file it round.
I was thinking of just braising it to a round... only problem being how to clean it up round... if you have a good 4 jaw chuck in a lathe that might be an option? Would need to be quite a big lathe, though.
Hi Mike, that exhaust clamp isn't the right one, which is possibly why the manifold has been squeezed out of shape and is no longer round. The correct clamp is part number is NTC3608, which is a round style clamp instead of that U bolt one.
See part 2 soon!
Having done this job many times I am surprised Mike did not see that issue straight away - that u clamp is never going to work correctly.
Mike be greatful you do not have to fit a Britpart replacement (or Bearmach) neither are accurate and both down pipes need tweaking with scaffold poles to align correctly with that bloody plate that secures the pipe to the block.
As an aside I have never had a leak at this joint, is there a lot of back pressure in the exhaust system - oddly I thought it did not need to be very well sealed as the gases just shoot down and past. Certainly never leaked for me there.
Good video what if you put two shims between the bracket and the exhaust pipe then tied up
It appears as if the nylocs have split washers under them? Ive done the same when in a rush and cant find normal (preferably brass) nuts. No real harm done except the nylon can smell a bit if it burns out!
Braze over low spots. File back round?
See part 2 soon!
Wow, what a cliffhanger!
See part 2 soon!
How about fitting a 300 Tdi manifold plus a 300 front down pipe, Great if you have an high-up turbo as on defenders which are different than the ones fitted to Disco,s. I dread having to do this job on my motor. Best wishes from Yorkshire Rob.
I am not sure if the down pipe gets in the way of the engine mount - will check!
Hi Mike
It’s the wrong type of clamp as well - the original (NTC4881) is thinner metal, and will clench more “around” the pipe! :)
If I were trying to fix this for nowt I would consider some slots hacksawed into the pipe to allow it to squash in a bit.
If that won't work what about a bit of flexy stainless steel joiner like we see joining manifolds to downpipes?
Final hardest idea is get a flat plate welded on the end to make a flange plate?
Interested to see your solution!
👍
See part 2 soon!
Could you use a band type clamp so it creates uniform pressure all the way round and causes the exhaust pipe to conform to the downpipe elliptical profile?
Try one of those wrap around "Super exhaust clamps" I hate those bloody U bolt clamps..
See part 2 soon!
You can silicon bronze it up & machine it true if you can't or don't want a new one
See part 2 soon!
Haven’t finished watching the vid yet, but when you started her up, you can see a puff of the black 3.58 smoke coming up from the manifold, probably why the underside of the hinge is black. Ps, no parcel arrive from this side of the pond yet? I did send it via the boat, being a tight Irish man🤣
Wait for part 2! Nothing here yet!
Mike
you could build the OD up with sliver solder and the get JP to machine it round again. it would not be to hard to clamp it up.... a few vices and a over size v block
Lop the end off and weld in a collar to replace it.
5 minute job for JP, I'm sure. 😉
May I offer a suggestion. Supposing you cut the warped stub off the end, get JP to turn up another one on the lathe, to original ( round) size, braze that on and...job done.. good as new again.
We considered that, but brazing old cast exhaust is tricky - carbon seems to get absorbed into the metal
Cut 3 slots around the oval and inset a sleeve just undersize? Exhaust clamp should take up the difference!? Might have to sleeve the sleeve to bring up the dia to fit the other bit. Scrap that - too many whiskys - I'll wait for part two. 👍
What about a heavy duty stainless steel hose clamp like the ones used on road compressor connectors.
See part 2 soon!
Could you not find a collet to fit around the O.D and try compressing it to try and true it up? Or put a close fitting socket or round bar inside it and hit the outside with a hammer to try and bring it back into round? Maybe go up a size socket or round bar when the first one becomes loose and hammer it again? Might work enough to hold a seal with some exhaust putty then.
Old cast iron can be very brittle - and as we cannot get a replacement, we have to go careful!
@@BritannicaRestorations true that, but if it’s not too brittle to crack being bent into it current shape could it not be bent a little back closer to round without cracking? I wonder if it’s not already cracked since it’s bent?
High temperature silicone. Used on stoves?
use your exhaust expander to get it round just a thought
I think the pipe would crack - old cast iron is not a goof material to bend
Get it glowing with the oxy that would sort it
Was expecting you to sugest JB weld and file it back to round.
It was a thought....lol!
Instead of trying to make the cast iron round, can you make the exhaust part it fits into oval to match, then a different clamp?
See part 2 soon!
Hmm an interesting problem here Mike ! F
See part 2 soon!
Could you heat it up and beat it back to shape?
Too brittle
Hey Mike, what’s the better engine?
200tdi or 300tdi?
I refer the 300 - much simpler to work on
Silicon sealer for exhausts Mike, never that paste that goes hard. Silicon acts as a lubricant to help put it together and once set, it flexes and will never leak.
You must use sensor safe silicon on petrol engines or the silicon will kill the O2 sensors
Could you put it into a hydraulic press, torch it red hot, and gently bent it round or would that crack it?
I think it would crack it
Wont brazing the casting up and filing it round help?
Little idea for u , for pointing out hard to see places, why dont u use a lazer pen to point out for the viewer's
this cast iron pipe went red hot , with too much boost , and with a bad clamp on it went oval ( you know LR oval ) , solution ? could be those exhaust corrugated with wire mesh flexible exhaust used on modern cars to adapt to the pipes...
High temp exhaust RTV? Flexible, so it shouldn't crack.
I find in some cases it does not stand up well to pressure and can blowout
Mike. Could the smoke machine also test for excess human flatulence too ? Christ almighty those LHD Defenders are a pig to work on in 200/300Tdi guise ! V.
Mike, you've got to start thinking like a "Pakistani Mechanic", you know they have a way of fixing everything. Eat more curry and swap your safety footwear for sandals, yep, that'll work.
Will do!
It could have been named: my 200tdi blows, see video for details
I hate with a passion that bracket - I have had to refit the down pipe four times on my car and this is the worst job. Bloody LR engineers - utterly dreadful design. AArgh .... Now I feel better.
If that part is made of stainless steel and the pipe is also made of SS why can you not just weld it on with SS welding rods or wire if its not cast iron then welding should not be a problem SS should not crack ???
See part 2 soon!