After learning the the hard way I have learned how to seal windows in a coastal environment, where if you have a hole the size of a pin head with the right wind exerting negative pressure on the interior of the structure it will leak significant water over time. Mostly putting new construction windows in old structures. To stop the water at the sheathing plane I use zip tape sides and top on the exterior flange and then foam from the interior by inserting the straw all the way in till it hits the back of the flange- I flatten the straw with a hammer if there is a tight spot- do the corners first then fill the rest. It warms my heart when later I see a little bubble of foam protruding from a corner of the window. Matt Recently subscribed and love you videos.
100%. SPF does not create a robust air/water seal on poly sheet or vinyl. Backer rod and sealant. Given your reach, it's awesome that you're putting the best techniques out there.
Matt, you got a great subscribers. All has valid and constructive comments. It heartens me to see this. For new construction house, this is possible. In old homes where I ripped out the entire window out and the available new construction windows that fits in that opening, I find that sometime there is only 1/4" gap left over on the side. I prefer to spray foam the entire cavity... from all the way in out toward interior wall. It takes some time but really worth the effort for insulation purpose. the window is still part of 'exterior surface' just like plywood or OSB... you need insulation too.
Thank you so much for making and posting this video. You answered exactly what I needed to know about sealing and caulking the bathroom window that I just installed.
Wow. Had to watch this one twice, Matt. Can't agree with you on this one. Too time consuming. Too much chance of the latex caulk shrinking, leaving voids. Not enough insulation with 1/4" or 1/2" rod on 2x6 wall. And most important, where are the shims?
in nz we use a backing rod toward the exterior side of the framing and fill the rest up with expanding foam. in my experience the only time this system fails is if the backing rod is too small for the gap to achieve a good seal. it will also fail if the opening has not been flashed/ taped correctly. our national practices are very poor and we continue to build leaky homes. i think one of the biggest problems here is that most builders do not understand the importance of air seals or how they work. in specific builds where energy efficiency is a priority the guys on the job tend to know what they are doing and do an amazing job. another good video Matt. thank you. I wouldn't recommend caulk for alterations where there will be alot of dust and debris.
how would you know what size backer rod to get if we haven't done framing yet but need to order beforehand because of long lead times? is there a safe size to start with, like what Matt says in the video which he says 3/4" or 1"?
Good video Matt. Here, the insulation contractors stuff the gap with a little bit of fiber glass insulation so you can't see the light coming from outside.
Hey Matt, love your vids, but I have to question this one. What is it specifically you don't like about foaming windows? When I've had to demo recently installed windows, I've found that after removing mechanical fasteners, the foam hold so tightly that it has to be cut out before the windows will even budge. That would seem to indicate a much greater seal area then one gets with the caulk/backer rod approach. Besides, it is very common to find a caulked joint has pulled away from one of the surfaces due to lack of adhesion after shrinking and curing. Also, that system will only have the caulk adhered to 1/8" to 1/2" on either side of the window vs framing joint. How can that small surface area compare with the thickness of a 2x6 wall? Additionally, with this system you are allowing possible water penetration all the way thru the wall to the back side of the trim. In instances where only caulk was used, and failed, I have found the back side of the trim to be rotten. Why would you not want to stop water incursion on the outside of the opening? Btw, forget the spatula. In my 35 years, I've found the best way to make sure the caulk joist adheres properly is to give it a good fingering. (Phrasing?)
REDMOONBOB The method he is using is a recommended method from a lot of highly respected building scientists. This is the best method to use. also with this method it takes the warranty issue out of the equation. A window rep cannot tell you that you didn't use the right product to seal the window jams and void warranty. window and door foam is not alway the manufacturers approved method. This method is safe and seals way better. We are not trying to glue the window to the frame but provide a tight air seal against the wall framing members.
I'm really curious about this as well. I'd love to hear what exactly the disadvantage to using foam instead of the backer rod/caulk method is. Would it be that the foam will not maintain its seal over time? Is that not true of caulk too?
I think caulking the inside is just an added level of protection, ideally the exterior is sealed tight and nothing ever gets inside. If you're comparing caulking to foam, the obvious difference is foam does not provide an air/water tight seal..it is full of air pockets and holes..
Matt Good video and good building practice. I normally don't see a backrod being used in residential applications. In the national window standard its a requirement for air sealing and provides a space for water drainage. Could you a the backrod and than low expansion spray foam? Some spray foams are mix of open and closed foam allowing expansion and contraction but fill the entire cavity up thus no drainage plane. I see windows that have side jamb to rough stud opening anchoring system which makes it tough to get the rod in place. In the Marvin installation guide backer rod isn't mentioned.
Hello Matt. Great video. I follow your post all the time. I'm living in a tropical weathered country. We get lots of rain and Sun 365days a year. The backer rod is a good idea but we have so much rain that the rod may soak up all that seepage. Then we have the heat from the Sun that would make any premium quality caulking dry up and crack. Ultimately it will leak through between the window jamb and wall or the screws that holds down the window. I was hoping that pumping foam or grout would help to fill up the gaps between the window jam and the wall. But I have yet to find a right solution to prevent any leaks and with hope of zero maintenance in the future. Do you have any solution for tropical climate? Maybe a well build aluminium window section complete with aluminium window sill + weep holes and drains?
There's a video on FineHomeBuilding that shows someone using foam, backer rod, caulk, and tape. "Weatherproof Window Installation, Episode 3: Insulation and Air-Sealing" - www.finehomebuilding.com/2015/09/10/weatherproof-window-installation-episode-3-insulation-and-air-sealing However, from the all the comments I see here, it sounds like no actually goes that far in the real world. Is that the case?
I did this . And I went from my zone calling for heat all the time to heat turning on for 10 min and I'm boiling. I don't see why the expansion foam cut flush then chaulked isn't the same affect. I cant say why the foam will hold the water though . Yeah it's going to get soaked but you already have a problem if water is getting through your window Note each room in the house has its own zone valve . That window directly affected one zone
Interesting video and comments, but I thought backer rod was actually closed-cell foam extruded (or molded?) into a rod shape. If so and the rod is providing a good seal, then water could be trapped between the rod and the caulked area. If the rod is not supposed to be inserted all the way forward to the flange, then maybe this would allow a fail-point drain but seems iffy. I'm guessing that the real issue with foam-in-a-can is not application (real hard to do this wrong), but that the foam degrades/fails over time. If so, I'd like to see a study on exterior shell product failure analysis to see if backer rod/caulk is really any better than foam.
The backer rod is all the way back towards the interior, and the caulk is applied right up against the backer rod. Any water leaks would be therefore be to the exterior of the backer rod, and assuming you have a properly sloped sill pan, would drain to the exterior. A good article on proper use caulk with backer rod is: www.finehomebuilding.com/2016/07/06/caulk-this-way
Christopher - thanks. I had seen that before, but that article just applies to caulking between right angle or flat planes and the backer rod is used (properly) to mostly fill up the space instead of (the incorrect way of) filling up the space with caulk. Does not talk to the subject at hand. Still would like definitive/expert comments on the life expectancy of foam-in-a-can vs backer rod/caulk.
@@chriswelles1 So does that mean it is ok to have an air space behind the backer rod (between the backer rod and that exterior piece which I think is called the nail fin)? And it would be bad to have the backer rod pushed all the way as far as it can go towards the exterior with space in front of the backer rod? I'm doing this for the first time after I stopped window installers from going any further with canned spray foam. That stuff exploded out of the space it was applied into and ran all over the brand new window and everywhere around it.
@@Rabbitsarewonderful Yes. It's fine to have air space behind the backer rod. It serves as a drainage area in case there are any leaks. It's fairly stagnant air there so the thermal difference between just air and some insulation in there isn't significant. Christine Williamson give a good talk about the benefits of the air gap there: th-cam.com/video/pDa2yVaLXQE/w-d-xo.html That being said, I think most folks actually put some insulation in there. In any case, you definitely don't push the backer rod back to the nail fin. It's there for "backing" the interior sealing caulk.
@@chriswelles1 Thank you so much for replying so fast and with great information! I'm actually heading out to buy backer rod. The video you linked to was helpful in explaining the air gap between the water seal and the air seal. So now I understand why you would not want to push that backer rod further back. I'm not planning to put fiberglass behind the backer rod. Hope that's ok. It's kind of annoying that there are shims below the window to work around with the backer rod. Wish they didn't have to be there.
Matt have you ever used air sealing tapes for this task? There are several out there, some that are vapor permeable. It would seem that a tape would be faster and less messy for this task. In addition, more durable. Though probably more expensive.
just a question, if you stick the backer rod all the way into the cavity between the jamb and the frame, how are you providing a drainage path for the water around the frame into sill area
I disagree with this approach. You don't want to seal from the inside, only the outside. If the exterior seal is breached and there is an interior seal, you never know the exterior seal failed. What next? The long-term creation of mold from the constant water leak, water rot, potentially termites or other wood loving insects. The one point I do agree with is that insulation of some form should fill the cavity vs leaving an open void for unconditioned air, which could have a delta temperature high/low enough to develop condensation.
Many windows, especially vinyl fail at the seems (internal) so obviously you want to seal externally but this method he described cover the internal failure as well. The window RO should be prepared to repel water out once it gets in allowing the space to dry quickly.
Did you miss the fact that he uses sloped sill pans? Watch his other videos on this subject before making assumptions. Any water on the exterior runs outward not inward and doesn't sit there and the bottom is totally covered using tyvek corner stretch.
Not sure, but I've seen this done to create an open soffit design before - where trusses are used (no tails or it isn't large enough lumber asthetically).
Michael Cox I took another look and now I'm wondering if those are the vestiges of an older roof system that for some reason they couldn't entirely do away with. I am definitely no builder, I just have a passing interest in construction practices for own future benefit.
how would you know what size backer rod to get if we haven't done framing yet but need to order beforehand because of long lead times? is there a safe size to start with, like you said in the video which he says 3/4" or 1"?
I would never use this method. If you sloped the pan and used a flexible wrap then use the low foam on top and sides. Then for the bottom I could see using the expanding rod, and a GOOD sealant, like an NP1 not that dap shit!! However for the top sides and bottom I would just low foam it. First flat sill is NEVER good should have a 5 degree to 7 degree slop, even 10 would be fine. Sometimes 10 becomes a pain when using shims. I fail to see why you would use caulk as a back dam. You have wayyyyy bigger problem if you think you are going to get that much water.
Matt love watching your video's keep up the great work! Wondering if you ever used Tremco ExoAir Trio or Eco expanding sealing tapes? They seem to do all the above in your video on sealing windows. I realize it may take longer to to attach, but your done in one step, whats your thoughts?
Tony Crisci low expansion foam does not expand like typical closed cell foam and can leave gaps due to its low expansion properties. It is no longer the gold standard in air/water sealing window interiors.
Rob Fisher I am aware of that and agree. See my other comment about how you have to stick the foam straw all the way in till it hits the back of the flange. do corners first. that is the weak point as far as water leakage. you have to stop the air water at the sheathing plane.
That's a rugged ass bead of caulk, get your finger in there and do it the right way lol. On a serious note, do you have any hands on experience in the trades or did you just get a construction management degree?
Really dislike that sponsor plug at the start, leave it for the end honestly. I understand they are important to you but in this media format ads need to be optional and the end is the perfect place for that. I wouldn't be surprised if you lost some subscribers if you keep pushing them this hard.
Agreed. Don't forget man that there are a lot of content creators out there who do more in depth videos with virtually zero sponsors so don't remind me it's free; we know we are spoiled but not by you.
I can understand that expanding foam could trap water. However would not the best method be to use the backer rod pushed in to leave a 1" space at the front of the window and then use expanding foam to backfill? That way you are allowing any water that does get behind the window a channel to move down to the bottom where it can drain outward yet you are still insulating and air sealing.
I don't think it's as hard as we are making it. You shove the foam in and if it's on a 2x4 you push it in until you have about an inch of space behind it, (on the inside). On 2x6 construction you would shove it in further leaving about two inches behind it. You then use foam to fill in that 1" or 2" space.
After learning the the hard way I have learned how to seal windows in a coastal environment, where if you have a hole the size of a pin head with the right wind exerting negative pressure on the interior of the structure it will leak significant water over time. Mostly putting new construction windows in old structures.
To stop the water at the sheathing plane I use zip tape sides and top on the exterior flange and then foam from the interior by inserting the straw all the way in till it hits the back of the flange- I flatten the straw with a hammer if there is a tight spot- do the corners first then fill the rest.
It warms my heart when later I see a little bubble of foam protruding from a corner of the window.
Matt Recently subscribed and love you videos.
100%. SPF does not create a robust air/water seal on poly sheet or vinyl. Backer rod and sealant. Given your reach, it's awesome that you're putting the best techniques out there.
Matt, you got a great subscribers. All has valid and constructive comments. It heartens me to see this. For new construction house, this is possible. In old homes where I ripped out the entire window out and the available new construction windows that fits in that opening, I find that sometime there is only 1/4" gap left over on the side. I prefer to spray foam the entire cavity... from all the way in out toward interior wall. It takes some time but really worth the effort for insulation purpose. the window is still part of 'exterior surface' just like plywood or OSB... you need insulation too.
Thank you so much for making and posting this video. You answered exactly what I needed to know about sealing and caulking the bathroom window that I just installed.
dish detergent cut with water, sprayed or dipped on a finger gives a tack free finish tool. Of coarse if you do it everyday..
+Steven Gorman great tip 👍🏻
Wow. Had to watch this one twice, Matt. Can't agree with you on this one. Too time consuming. Too much chance of the latex caulk shrinking, leaving voids. Not enough insulation with 1/4" or 1/2" rod on 2x6 wall. And most important, where are the shims?
in nz we use a backing rod toward the exterior side of the framing and fill the rest up with expanding foam. in my experience the only time this system fails is if the backing rod is too small for the gap to achieve a good seal. it will also fail if the opening has not been flashed/ taped correctly. our national practices are very poor and we continue to build leaky homes. i think one of the biggest problems here is that most builders do not understand the importance of air seals or how they work. in specific builds where energy efficiency is a priority the guys on the job tend to know what they are doing and do an amazing job. another good video Matt. thank you. I wouldn't recommend caulk for alterations where there will be alot of dust and debris.
Kirk Downes I would to see a photo of this application
how would you know what size backer rod to get if we haven't done framing yet but need to order beforehand because of long lead times? is there a safe size to start with, like what Matt says in the video which he says 3/4" or 1"?
just caught this vid prior to adding a few windows in a newer addition ... glad I did ... some great info here ... :)
Do those backer rods ever need to get replaced after a certain amount of years?
Good video Matt. Here, the insulation contractors stuff the gap with a little bit of fiber glass insulation so you can't see the light coming from outside.
But the backer rod does not fill the whole cavity which actually let frost build up thru the winter climate changes
Hey Matt, love your vids, but I have to question this one.
What is it specifically you don't like about foaming windows? When I've had to demo recently installed windows, I've found that after removing mechanical fasteners, the foam hold so tightly that it has to be cut out before the windows will even budge. That would seem to indicate a much greater seal area then one gets with the caulk/backer rod approach. Besides, it is very common to find a caulked joint has pulled away from one of the surfaces due to lack of adhesion after shrinking and curing. Also, that system will only have the caulk adhered to 1/8" to 1/2" on either side of the window vs framing joint. How can that small surface area compare with the thickness of a 2x6 wall?
Additionally, with this system you are allowing possible water penetration all the way thru the wall to the back side of the trim. In instances where only caulk was used, and failed, I have found the back side of the trim to be rotten. Why would you not want to stop water incursion on the outside of the opening?
Btw, forget the spatula. In my 35 years, I've found the best way to make sure the caulk joist adheres properly is to give it a good fingering. (Phrasing?)
REDMOONBOB
The method he is using is a recommended method from a lot of highly respected building scientists. This is the best method to use. also with this method it takes the warranty issue out of the equation. A window rep cannot tell you that you didn't use the right product to seal the window jams and void warranty. window and door foam is not alway the manufacturers approved method. This method is safe and seals way better. We are not trying to glue the window to the frame but provide a tight air seal against the wall framing members.
I'm really curious about this as well. I'd love to hear what exactly the disadvantage to using foam instead of the backer rod/caulk method is. Would it be that the foam will not maintain its seal over time? Is that not true of caulk too?
REDMOONBOB
Totally agree.
I think caulking the inside is just an added level of protection, ideally the exterior is sealed tight and nothing ever gets inside.
If you're comparing caulking to foam, the obvious difference is foam does not provide an air/water tight seal..it is full of air pockets and holes..
REDMOONBOB are we doing phrasing anymore?
Making sure to use the good high quality CALK lol :D
Instead of backer rod and caulk, could one do just backer rod and apply a high performance tape on the inside? like a Wigluv 20/40?
Matt Good video and good building practice. I normally don't see a backrod being used in residential applications. In the national window standard its a requirement for air sealing and provides a space for water drainage. Could you a the backrod and than low expansion spray foam? Some spray foams are mix of open and closed foam allowing expansion and contraction but fill the entire cavity up thus no drainage plane. I see windows that have side jamb to rough stud opening anchoring system which makes it tough to get the rod in place. In the Marvin installation guide backer rod isn't mentioned.
Are you caulking all around the window?? Or just sill and six inches on jams from sill
I don't get this one. I just install the spray foam and then acoustic sealant over top of the sprayfoam that connects to the vapor barrier (Zone 4)
would I use backer rod and caulk to air seal exterior doors as well?
Freeze the frame at 00:39 for a nice movie cover to a horror movie. LOL
Can you install backer rod from the outside? We’re getting our siding redone and I’m thinking the windows should be sealed at the same time.
Hello Matt. Great video. I follow your post all the time. I'm living in a tropical weathered country. We get lots of rain and Sun 365days a year. The backer rod is a good idea but we have so much rain that the rod may soak up all that seepage. Then we have the heat from the Sun that would make any premium quality caulking dry up and crack. Ultimately it will leak through between the window jamb and wall or the screws that holds down the window. I was hoping that pumping foam or grout would help to fill up the gaps between the window jam and the wall. But I have yet to find a right solution to prevent any leaks and with hope of zero maintenance in the future. Do you have any solution for tropical climate? Maybe a well build aluminium window section complete with aluminium window sill + weep holes and drains?
It may be pricey for some but Renewal by Andersens Fibrex windows are worth it. They hold up extremely well in extreme climates.
Could you use ZIP Liquid Flashing instead with the backer Rod?
There's a video on FineHomeBuilding that shows someone using foam, backer rod, caulk, and tape. "Weatherproof Window Installation, Episode 3: Insulation and Air-Sealing" - www.finehomebuilding.com/2015/09/10/weatherproof-window-installation-episode-3-insulation-and-air-sealing However, from the all the comments I see here, it sounds like no actually goes that far in the real world. Is that the case?
Christopher Welles d
Try to find this to the video
Why not put the spray foam insulation from the outside after the backer rod is inside to make sure you fill the entire gap?
In lieu of the backer rod, how about a small amount of the low expand foam and then the caulk.. time savings worth it???
I did this . And I went from my zone calling for heat all the time to heat turning on for 10 min and I'm boiling.
I don't see why the expansion foam cut flush then chaulked isn't the same affect. I cant say why the foam will hold the water though . Yeah it's going to get soaked but you already have a problem if water is getting through your window
Note each room in the house has its own zone valve . That window directly affected one zone
How would you improve on a n existing foam insulation? Im in the northeast
Interesting video and comments, but I thought backer rod was actually closed-cell foam extruded (or molded?) into a rod shape. If so and the rod is providing a good seal, then water could be trapped between the rod and the caulked area. If the rod is not supposed to be inserted all the way forward to the flange, then maybe this would allow a fail-point drain but seems iffy. I'm guessing that the real issue with foam-in-a-can is not application (real hard to do this wrong), but that the foam degrades/fails over time. If so, I'd like to see a study on exterior shell product failure analysis to see if backer rod/caulk is really any better than foam.
The backer rod is all the way back towards the interior, and the caulk is applied right up against the backer rod. Any water leaks would be therefore be to the exterior of the backer rod, and assuming you have a properly sloped sill pan, would drain to the exterior. A good article on proper use caulk with backer rod is: www.finehomebuilding.com/2016/07/06/caulk-this-way
Christopher - thanks. I had seen that before, but that article just applies to caulking between right angle or flat planes and the backer rod is used (properly) to mostly fill up the space instead of (the incorrect way of) filling up the space with caulk. Does not talk to the subject at hand. Still would like definitive/expert comments on the life expectancy of foam-in-a-can vs backer rod/caulk.
@@chriswelles1 So does that mean it is ok to have an air space behind the backer rod (between the backer rod and that exterior piece which I think is called the nail fin)? And it would be bad to have the backer rod pushed all the way as far as it can go towards the exterior with space in front of the backer rod? I'm doing this for the first time after I stopped window installers from going any further with canned spray foam. That stuff exploded out of the space it was applied into and ran all over the brand new window and everywhere around it.
@@Rabbitsarewonderful Yes. It's fine to have air space behind the backer rod. It serves as a drainage area in case there are any leaks. It's fairly stagnant air there so the thermal difference between just air and some insulation in there isn't significant. Christine Williamson give a good talk about the benefits of the air gap there: th-cam.com/video/pDa2yVaLXQE/w-d-xo.html
That being said, I think most folks actually put some insulation in there. In any case, you definitely don't push the backer rod back to the nail fin. It's there for "backing" the interior sealing caulk.
@@chriswelles1 Thank you so much for replying so fast and with great information! I'm actually heading out to buy backer rod. The video you linked to was helpful in explaining the air gap between the water seal and the air seal. So now I understand why you would not want to push that backer rod further back. I'm not planning to put fiberglass behind the backer rod. Hope that's ok. It's kind of annoying that there are shims below the window to work around with the backer rod. Wish they didn't have to be there.
Matt have you ever used air sealing tapes for this task? There are several out there, some that are vapor permeable. It would seem that a tape would be faster and less messy for this task. In addition, more durable. Though probably more expensive.
just a question, if you stick the backer rod all the way into the cavity between the jamb and the frame, how are you providing a drainage path for the water around the frame into sill area
how much per sqft are these houses, does the advance framing save money upfront?
I disagree with this approach. You don't want to seal from the inside, only the outside. If the exterior seal is breached and there is an interior seal, you never know the exterior seal failed. What next? The long-term creation of mold from the constant water leak, water rot, potentially termites or other wood loving insects. The one point I do agree with is that insulation of some form should fill the cavity vs leaving an open void for unconditioned air, which could have a delta temperature high/low enough to develop condensation.
Many windows, especially vinyl fail at the seems (internal) so obviously you want to seal externally but this method he described cover the internal failure as well. The window RO should be prepared to repel water out once it gets in allowing the space to dry quickly.
Did you miss the fact that he uses sloped sill pans? Watch his other videos on this subject before making assumptions. Any water on the exterior runs outward not inward and doesn't sit there and the bottom is totally covered using tyvek corner stretch.
at the 2:40 mark, what are those gray...boards? that extend a few feet along the roof trusses from the exterior wall?
+Frank Kovach those are rafter tails. Since this is at least a 2-story, I would presume there is a porch/deck/patio outside of that wall.
So they are just sistered on to provide an overhang for a porch?
Not sure, but I've seen this done to create an open soffit design before - where trusses are used (no tails or it isn't large enough lumber asthetically).
Michael Cox I took another look and now I'm wondering if those are the vestiges of an older roof system that for some reason they couldn't entirely do away with. I am definitely no builder, I just have a passing interest in construction practices for own future benefit.
Nah, you know what? I think you're right.
how would you know what size backer rod to get if we haven't done framing yet but need to order beforehand because of long lead times? is there a safe size to start with, like you said in the video which he says 3/4" or 1"?
There about 12 bucks order a bunch of all sizes or wait
Thank you Matt!
that's a great gun, but I love dripless guns from SW
Great tips once again Matt!
I would never use this method. If you sloped the pan and used a flexible wrap then use the low foam on top and sides. Then for the bottom I could see using the expanding rod, and a GOOD sealant, like an NP1 not that dap shit!! However for the top sides and bottom I would just low foam it.
First flat sill is NEVER good should have a 5 degree to 7 degree slop, even 10 would be fine. Sometimes 10 becomes a pain when using shims. I fail to see why you would use caulk as a back dam. You have wayyyyy bigger problem if you think you are going to get that much water.
what the name to seal the window,would you spell it.
Great tip! Thanks Matt!
Awesome tip! Thanks!
Matt love watching your video's keep up the great work! Wondering if you ever used Tremco ExoAir Trio or Eco expanding sealing tapes? They seem to do all the above in your video on sealing windows. I realize it may take longer to to attach, but your done in one step, whats your thoughts?
2 tubes per window?
+Randy Kephart roughly 1-2
+Matt Risinger who carries the stretch tape you know they look at me like I'm stupid when I asked Lowe's and Home Depot
LOL, yeah you have to go to a commercial lumberyard or construction supplier.
Rock it Matt. love it. keep em coming ty
Great info , thanks as always
Love it!
Normally I like his construction techniques but I think this one is not quite right.
THank You
I believe low expansion foam is closed cell. therefore should stop water. Matt's argument for his method doesn't hold water.
Tony Crisci low expansion foam does not expand like typical closed cell foam and can leave gaps due to its low expansion properties. It is no longer the gold standard in air/water sealing window interiors.
Rob Fisher I am aware of that and agree. See my other comment about how you have to stick the foam straw all the way in till it hits the back of the flange. do corners first. that is the weak point as far as water leakage. you have to stop the air water at the sheathing plane.
But windows dont open up and down, they open in and out, and after 10yrs the come out of shape.
That's a rugged ass bead of caulk, get your finger in there and do it the right way lol. On a serious note, do you have any hands on experience in the trades or did you just get a construction management degree?
Really dislike that sponsor plug at the start, leave it for the end honestly. I understand they are important to you but in this media format ads need to be optional and the end is the perfect place for that. I wouldn't be surprised if you lost some subscribers if you keep pushing them this hard.
Agreed. Don't forget man that there are a lot of content creators out there who do more in depth videos with virtually zero sponsors so don't remind me it's free; we know we are spoiled but not by you.
Terrible explanation of why you're using the product and how to install. Post why and how to do please.
You waste so much time & make the video longer than necessary. This is aggravating to all viewers. Take control of yourself.
I can understand that expanding foam could trap water. However would not the best method be to use the backer rod pushed in to leave a 1" space at the front of the window and then use expanding foam to backfill? That way you are allowing any water that does get behind the window a channel to move down to the bottom where it can drain outward yet you are still insulating and air sealing.
+John Salazar that's a great plan but how would you ensure the 1" space? Need to noodle this. I like where you are going...
What do you do where the window is shimmed or where the metal hold back straps connect?
How about temporarily put something there like a dowel rod or something?
I don't think it's as hard as we are making it. You shove the foam in and if it's on a 2x4 you push it in until you have about an inch of space behind it, (on the inside). On 2x6 construction you would shove it in further leaving about two inches behind it.
You then use foam to fill in that 1" or 2" space.