How To Ream the Taper for Tie Rod End on Knuckles using a Reamer Bit- Jeep Wrangler Jk - Reid Racing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video, I show you how I reamed the tie rod tapered holes on my Reid Racing knuckles to better fit my tie rod ends from TMR Customs. This is my first time to perform this particular task. It was a frightening idea, but it actually turned out to be a pretty easy job. If you have any tips for the next guy... please post in the comments!
Here is the reamer bit I was using: amzn.to/2m7QAUN
For Proper Fitting of Ball Joints and Tie Rod Ends
1 1/2" taper per Foot or 3 Degrees 34 minutes per side
Small Diameter 15/32-Large Diameter 1 1/32"
Three Flats on Shank for better Grip in Chuck
You can find them cheaper, but I needed this quick. It came same day delivery from Amazon... :-)
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The JK tie rod end taper is the same "1-in-8" taper (which is also labeled as 1 1/2" taper per Foot) that most other American vehicles use but it has a unique dimension of 0.640" at the small end.
The "1-ton" tie rod end is the industry standard for aftermarket steering systems. They're cheap, plentiful, strong, and available with both left-hand-thread and right-hand-thread for easy on-vehicle adjustment. There are also special offset versions available for vehicles where clearance is a problem, such as a diff cover guard or extra-thick diff cover. The "1-ton" tie rod end uses the same "1-in-8" taper as the JKs, but their small-end dimension is 0.650".
Reid Racing currently drills their holes to a slightly smaller than stock JK taper (mine were around 0.630 but I don't know the "official number").
-- source of values: Reid Racing
I will be doing this to my 92 XJ this week (beginning of October 2022) and your video makes me confident. Thanks brother.
Large fender washer with a larger center hole.
Wouldn't a few washers between the knuckle and the rubber be much more simple?
Nice video, needing to do this for another purpose. Nice to see the tool in action to know what to expect.
Maticulous as always. Every detail explained and carried out. Right down to touch up orange paint. Thank you for the step by steps.
Yeah "maticulous" as a sledge hammer using a machining tool on a workpiece flopping about. Probably a 1/16 burr all around
When you yank on the torque wrench like... 8:12... that. You're actually undertorquing your fastener. For a click style torque wrench to provide an accurate torque, you need to use a slowly increasing amount of force.
I am installing new reid knuckles which come reamed to factory specks. I also have brand new dynatrac ball joints and fusion 2.5 ton tie rod and draglink to install with it. After calling dynatrac and calling fusion(as well as their website claims) I do not have to team ream knuckles. Dynatrac will be tight for 500 miles before loosening up and fusion4x4 had made the decision to match factory size holes with their product. Dynatrac tech insisted not to ream that it is a tight and you will experience harder to turn steering until its breaks in.
That was one of the reasons I chose the two products that I did was it's a clean install without all sorts of reaming mods. Hope that helps
Generally, nylocks are a one time use nut to retain the locking feature, as you already stated..... Most people don't know that.
Yeh...exactly why I put threadlock on it. I feel okay with one or two uses tops...but after that I'm changing it or going to threadlock!
I’ve never seen that done before. Thanks for the video!
I’ve been watching different trail recovery outfits and a lot of recovery’s are broken knuckles that were reamed out weakened
Also just FYI when you put those in put some NeverSeze on that bolt that goes up into the knuckle that way instead of having to beat the hell out of your knuckle with a hammer you should be able to gently tap the top of the bolt with a nut still on it and it should fall right out the reason why I know this cuz I've done it 😉
Good tip, i wonder if that would be the case for a pitman arm as well.
Half the speed, and twice the feed.
That's what she said!
of course when I did it my reamer caught an edge and bent it.......now I need new knuckles
good work as always! those really look like an awsome upgrade.
Have you heard of washers
from the camera view you had you're going in a little bit crooked with that reamer ,however I could have used a reamer like that when I did mine but I sure I'll be doing more so what kind of reamer that is that and where did you get it at 😉
I thought you had the yeti xd drag link. Id like to buy the Reid knuckles but hesitant. I was wondering if the yeti no drill top mount drag link will fit.
Awesome video, I'm still freaked out about doing this. I'm doing something a little different though I am reaming out a stock samurai steering knuckle to fit Toyota tie rod ends. the parts are on the way and I'm scared I'm going to mess it up or break the reamer or I don't know.
Did you ream the Sami knuckles? I'm trying to go from a Toyota 4R tie rod to a Tundra tie rod... same taper (seems like 2 degrees or 1/2" per foot). Where did you find the reamer for the yota? Thanks!
@@djdusto1 yes, I did. It took me almost an hour to do each side by hand not fun. Lowrangeoffroad has them. If you dont find it reply and i will send a link
THANK YOU!!!!
Do I measure the Tapper of the ball joint forr the degrees?
Why not just back it with a washer or two?
That's what I thought as soon he started the video my dynatrac axles are beat to shit and tie rod ends are getting lose I just ad a washer or too before the nut and ready for action
I added a Ruff Stuff piece called The Cure to the drag link end at the tie rod on my YJ. Looks like the same part you show in your video. Seems to also serve the same purpose. Are those The Cure?
Pretty much the same thing.
Reamer part#?
Where did you buy the reamer?
Cool
Where did the comment go from the individual saying he would or rather kept his steer smarts products
Where can i buy the taper
As of 10-18-22 exact item is no longer available
Couldn't a spacer just be added?
My thoughts exactly. lol
For the purpose of simply tightening up the gap for the grease seal you could add a rubber or nylon washer/spacer between the top of the boot and bottom of the knuckle. Reaming is a lot better way to tighten up that gap and get the meat of the tie rod into the hole for presumably more strength. Usually people ream knuckles for different tie rod ends when a castle nut and cotter pin are used, to bring the cotter pin hole up to the right position.
Use a darn nylon washer, your reamer was not good enough or necessary.... $80 washer 1.00 who is in the know??>
Are you the not a rubicon guy?
The re-emerging worked out great